DIY repair of a retractor vaz 2109

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a retractor vaz 2109 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today we will analyze an important topic for the owners of the "nine" - malfunctions and repairs of the VAZ-2109 starter retractor relay. As a rule, it is this device that is the reason that car drivers have to disassemble the entire starter to find out why the mechanism does not work. Sometimes this trouble is solved by itself, if you charge the car battery well or carefully clean the contact connections, all of them can oxidize over time. In any case, the owner of a car of the domestic auto industry must be able to understand his own iron friend himself, since trouble can happen on the road when there is no service station nearby.

In order to independently check the performance of the solenoid relay, it is first necessary to check the starter itself. The circuit is pretty simple. The first step is to turn the key in the ignition key and try to start the car. If the starter does not work, you will hear a specific clicking sound. This means that it is in the relay that a malfunction has lurked.

Without disassembling or dismantling the starter, you can check the mechanism of the device yourself. To do this, jumper two contacts on the rear panel of the traction relay (they look like copper bolts). If the device starts to move (twists), then the problem is in the retractor.

Remember that when disassembling and repairing a car yourself, you should be careful and accurate. Follow the instructions so as not to aggravate the breakdown or get injured.

All faults can be conditionally divided into two categories:

The most common reason for the inoperability of the relay is that the soldering point of the wire to the terminal has lost contact. Before disassembling the device, just try to solder these places with a soldering iron - the problem is solved. Well, if the starter still does not work, then the relay will have to be disassembled. Sometimes the coil, which creates an electromagnetic field, burns out. A banal replacement of the old wire with a new one eliminates the problem, for this it is enough just to rewind the coil with your own hands.

In the second case, when you hear clicks, but the starter does not rotate, try using a screwdriver with a rubberized handle to connect the terminals on the retractor relay. Having done this, the starter anchor will start and start spinning, you can easily understand this by the characteristic sound. In this case, the breakdown lies in the inability of the relay to pass an electric current through itself. Be careful when working, because you are in the area of electromagnetic activity, you can get an electric shock.

If, after the actions taken, the starter continues to be silent, then it is broken. To get it repaired, you need to disassemble the solenoid relay. But how can this be done if the mechanism itself is not intended for disassembly? In an old-style relay, you need to unscrew one or two screws, unsolder the wiring that goes inside the device.

Modern devices are non-collapsible, and in order to open the back panel, you will have to expand the metal case of the mechanism. Flaring work can be done with a large screwdriver or pliers. After that, you need to remove the cover. To repair, clean burnt contact plate, bolt surfaces from carbon to shine. The better you clean it, the longer the relay will serve you.

Video (click to play).

Of course, it would be wiser and safer to contact the nearest service station, but for a number of reasons, drivers sometimes repair the car on their own. Saving money and time requires preliminary preparation, certain knowledge in the repair of machines.

There is a special offer on our website.You can get a free consultation of our corporate lawyer by simply asking your question in the form below.

It is known that a car cannot drive without a starter. It seems to be a simple electric motor, but without it, nowhere. It is possible to start a piston unit with a failed "starting" unit only from a pusher, but perhaps only for a trip to a car service specialist.

The reasons for the breakdown of such a critical mechanism are quite obvious. Most diseases can be cured if you repair the starter yourself. We list further the main sources of malfunctions:

natural wear and tear of the elements of the electric motor;
water ingress during washing the engine of the car;
improper operation of the unit, for example, prolonged periods of operation of the electric motor after starting the motor;
short circuits.

Preliminarily, we note that according to the symptoms when turning the ignition key, it is necessary to separate the types of malfunctions of the starting electric motor. If, for example, a click or crack is heard after turning the key, then the problem is in the retractor cylinder. The latter can be replaced completely. To begin with, we will analyze how to make a starter repair with our own hands on VAZ cars. First, let's take the very first of the cars in this line.
Image - DIY repair of a retractor vaz 2109

To repair a VAZ 2101 with our own hands, we will use the tools listed below:

set of wrenches;
flat and cross screwdrivers;
sandpaper;
heads.

So, we start work by opening the hood.

Disconnect the terminals from the battery.
Dismantle the air filter housing with a filter element.
We unscrew the three nuts securing the electric motor to the motor.
We disconnect the wires, after taking photographs of the connections.
We remove the defective device.
Perhaps the so-called "pants" - the exhaust pipe, will interfere with this, then you will have to unscrew four bolts and "lower the pants".
Separate the retraction cylinder from the dismantled element by disconnecting the wire and unscrewing three screws. We inspect it, if necessary, replace it completely.
After unscrewing the bolts, remove the motor cover.
Having unscrewed two bolts, dismantle the cover.
We separate the windings from the brush holder plates, remove the insulating tube.
We separate the cover from the side of the collector.
We take out the brushes of the electric motor with a screwdriver. We measure them, replace them if necessary.
We disassemble the drive of the defective assembly unit. To do this, remove the cotter pin, then remove the drive lever, disengage the drive from the clutch, and then remove it.
We inspect the windings of the electric motor.
If necessary, press out, after which we replace the bushings of the assembly.
We clean elements with carbon deposits or deposits. We replace the failed parts with new parts.
We assemble and assemble on the way back.

Note that do-it-yourself starter repair at the VAZ 2106 is carried out according to similar instructions.

Also find out where the fuel filter on the Hyundai Solaris and the fuel pump device are located.

If we discuss the problem of interest to us regarding the front-wheel drive VAZ, then it is enough just to consider what are the differences from the given instructions. The tools are the same here.However, for example, for a VAZ 2109 starter, when repairing with your own hands, you do not need to disconnect the exhaust pipe during dismantling from the car. Further manipulations are carried out in the same way as described above. Naturally, the repair of such a VAZ 2108 starter with your own hands is done according to a similar scenario. When repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, it is easier to immediately remove the retractor relay when dismantling the unit from the car by unscrewing the corresponding nuts.However, in the case of repairing the starter at the VAZ 2115 with your own hands, the electric motor can be dismantled immediately along with the retraction cylinder.By the way, it is not necessary to replace this completely assembled cylinder in the event of a breakdown. You can also repair the starter retractor relay with your own hands. To do this, you need to disassemble it, inspect the retraction winding, the return spring, replace the failed parts. As for domestic cars, UAZ repairs can be performed according to the instructions given by VAZ. And now let's touch on two more truly popular cars. Let's talk about iterating over the starting element on the Oka, as well as Nexia.
Image - DIY repair of a retractor vaz 2109

To repair the starter at the Oka with our own hands, we need:

set of wrenches;
screwdrivers.

We start by dismantling the unit, it is located under the thermostat of the cooling system.

In this car, the launcher is attached at only two points; to remove it, you need to unscrew the bolt on one side and the nut on the other. But first we disconnect the wires, both from the battery, from the retractor cylinder and from the connecting block.
We unscrew two nuts, after which we dismantle the traction relay.
We unscrew and remove the cover from the collector side.
We dismantle the springs of the brushes, the locking, and also the adjusting washers.
We separate the cover from the body, where the collector is.
We take out the brushes, then measure them; replacement is necessary during production.
Having unpinned, dismantle the lever axis.
Remove the cover from the drive side.
We remove the drive lever, then we take out the anchor.
We inspect the windings of the electric motor.
We dismantle the drive clutch, inspect its condition. This clutch is also called bendix. In case of any defects in the clutch, it is easy to repair the bendix of any starter with your own hands. You just need to replace the broken elements.
We take out the spring of the bendix, replace it if necessary.

These are some simple manipulations.

I must say that in such a small car, such as the Tavria, the fastening of our cherished electric motor is also made at two points, and its design is similar. Therefore, do-it-yourself repairs at Tavria are carried out in the same way.

Well, it is somehow easier with Oka and Tavria, but if the starting unit of another people's car breaks down, will it be more difficult? Let's see. To repair a starter from Daewoo Nexia with your own hands, you need to prepare:

set of wrenches;
screwdrivers.

To dismantle the unit from the car - here, like all big cars, there are three fasteners - unscrew the nuts, disconnect the wires. You need to know that a "ground" wire is attached to the upper bolt of the electric motor fastening to the piston unit.
We immediately check the drive gear, it should only rotate unidirectionally.
We carry out disassembly and enumeration of the unit in the same way as in the previous cases.
We also disconnect the retractor relay.
Dismantle the cover from the manifold side as well as from the drive side.
We dismantle and then replace the brushes if necessary.
We take out the anchor, study the windings.
If necessary, press out, after which we replace the bushings of the assembly.
We do the assembly in the reverse order.

Apparently, there are not many difficulties here.

The same can be said about repairing a starter, for example, an Audi 80 with your own hands. There you need to act, practically repeating the above points.

However, not everyone decides to do the repair of the starter with their own hands. Someone may find it much more convenient to contact a car service technician. For such motorists, we have compiled a table with prices for the described operation.

Any car owner or just a driver has had to deal with such a problem more than once, when at the most unexpected moment the vehicle refuses to start completely. You can identify the cause by elimination.
If the battery is fully charged and no problems are found in the electrical network, then the cause should be looked for in the starter and its devices (starting and traction relays).On the VAZ 2109, the starter retractor relay is used to turn on the windings and transfer torque from the starter rotor to the engine flywheel.
After the motor has started, the solenoid relay disconnects the drive and cuts off the power. It turns out that the starter works only at the moment of starting, and then it turns off both electrically and mechanically.
Replacing the VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay can solve this problem, since troubles with it are a fairly common malfunction. However, you should not rush, it is always important to check and identify the cause of the problem.

All cars of the Volga Auto Mobile Plant use the classic engine start system, based on an electric starter, which has the following device:

The starter is a compact electric motor, which is connected to the engine flywheel for a short time using a clutch (aka "bendix"), driving the flywheel into rotation
It all looks so simple, only at first glance, in fact, ensuring the normal operation of the starter is a very difficult task, and there are two reasons for this.
The first is that, although the starter has modest dimensions, in the process of operation, a current of tens, and even hundreds of amperes is passed through it, and this creates some problems with its safe connection to the power circuit of the machine
If you close the starter circuit in the ignition lock directly, then no lock, as well as other components that are included in this circuit, will simply burn out, not withstanding the currents arising when starting the starter (see Do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 starter repair - an opportunity to save a lot)
That is why it is necessary to connect this unit to the battery remotely, using a relay with contacts designed for high currents.
The second - the unit must work for a short time, and turn off when the engine starts, otherwise it will be destroyed, since it will not withstand all the engine power
With both tasks, the starter retractor, which is designed for this, perfectly copes with the VAZ 2109

First, let's figure out what kind of malfunctions there are:

The first situation is when the solenoid relay emits clicks, but the starter armature does not rotate
The second situation is when neither the relay nor the starter itself shows signs of "life"
Let's start with the first option. If the relay clicks, then you should check if the starter armature is working properly
To check, bridge the terminals of the solenoid relay with a large screwdriver
You can use a small piece of welding cable with thick terminals at the ends instead of a screwdriver
This is necessary so that, working with high current, you can easily burn the terminals or a thin screwdriver
When these terminals are closed, the starter armature must twist (you will hear it)
This indicates that the relay is not working properly, because it does not allow electricity to pass through.
When, after closing the terminals, the starter is still silent, it means that the relay has nothing to do with it, but the starter itself is faulty
Now, when it became clear that the cause of the malfunction lies in the relay, it is necessary to replace the solenoid relay on the VAZ 2109 starter, or to repair it if possible

The tool you need to repair or replace:

Head on "13" with a ratchet (or wrench)
Flat (slotted) screwdriver
Soldering iron
A set of keys

We begin to remove the starter from the VAZ 2109, the retractor relay is screwed to it, so they are removed assembled.
The sequence of actions is as follows:

Before each work related to the removal or installation of engine units, it is imperative to fix the car with a handbrake (parking brake) and disconnect the battery from the power circuit (remove the terminals)
These precautions must also be taken when removing the starter.

Sectional view of starter and solenoid relay

A wire of large cross-section comes from the battery to the contact of the solenoid relay
Disconnect this wire by unscrewing the nut with a key "13"
We take out the thinner winding power wiring from the solenoid relay
With the same key on "13", unscrew the nuts (there are only three of them), with which the starter is attached to the clutch block
On a VAZ 2109 car, these steps are much easier to perform, unlike classic models, all the nuts are located here in convenient (easily accessible) places
To unscrew them, you do not need a socket wrench with a cardan
It is convenient to take out the starter through the top, for this you have to slightly twist it around its axis, or through the bottom, also without problems
To reach it from the bottom, you will have to remove the engine cover.

The relay is removed as easy as shelling pears:

Remove the two bolts securing it to the starter and disconnect the core shackle from the top end of the drive arm
Connect a new one, and the replacement of the retractor on the starter VAZ 2109 is completed

However, it can be repaired if you are not satisfied with the price of a new one or like to save money:

The first and most common problem is the loss of contact in the places where the wires are soldered to the terminal

Places of soldering wires to the terminals, which are recommended to be soldered

It is possible that poor-quality soldering was performed and the contact was broken from oxidation over time.
Before disassembling the relay, be sure to solder the contact terminals with a soldering iron, the malfunction disappears after that in most cases

Sectional drawing of the retraction unit

If the malfunction remains, then proceed to disassembly:

After contacts, the following common faults are wire breakage and carbon deposits on the contacts
To eliminate this kind of malfunction, you will need to disassemble the solenoid relay.
It consists of a body (number 11 in the photo above), inside which there is a winding (2,3), a core (6) with a return spring (7,12), as well as contacts (10)
The spring is used to disconnect the starter rotor gear from the flywheel rim when the power to the solenoid relay winding is turned off
The rear cover of the retractor starter VAZ 2109 is screwed to the body
Therefore, you must first remove the cover
For this we unscrew the screws of its fastening
After that, unscrew two nuts from both contact bolts
There are washers under the nuts, which are important not to lose, and it is imperative to put them back in place during assembly.

Remove the screws securing the cover, unscrew the nuts from the contact bolts

We unsolder the conclusions and remove the cover

If carbon deposits are found on the contacts, they must be cleaned with a file
There is a rubber O-ring under the cover
This ring will need to be replaced in case of loss of elasticity or damage.
Then remove the contact plate assembly with the stem.

Removing the contact plate

Use a flat (slotted) screwdriver to remove the return spring from the stem
In case of deformation of the spring or strong tension, it must be replaced, because the extended spring no longer provides the necessary contact and, as a result, poor operation of the retractor
We disassemble the contact plate
To do this, remove the retaining ring, the insulating washer and the contact plate will fall out by themselves, under the action of a spring

All parts of the contact plate (located in the order they were installed on the stem)

It is necessary to remove the contact bolts from the cover

Then thoroughly clean their contact surfaces, because due to their burning, the correct operation of the retractor is disrupted.

When the contacts are badly burnt and it is not possible to remove carbon deposits with sandpaper, then they must be turned 180 degrees so that their contact occurs on the other (not burnt) side

Important: The relay coils are installed in a non-separable case, so we replace the starter retractor relay entirely if they are damaged

This completes the instructions for disassembling the solenoid relay VAZ 2109

It remains to replace the elements that have failed, and collect all the parts back

If the retractor has a non-separable body, it is better to immediately replace it entirely.
However, you can repair the following with your own hands:

Flare the case carefully using pliers or a large screwdriver

After flaring, we unsolder the contacts and take out the cover

Then everything is in order, as in the above case.

When assembling, it will remain to carefully rivet the case

After assembly, it remains to check the resistance of the windings, with serviceable windings:

The resistance between the lower bolt of the relay and the petal contact with a good winding is within about 0.5 Ohm

And between the body and the spade contact about 0.7 Ohm

This completes the repair and replacement of the retractor starter VAZ 2109. Replacement, in my opinion, is easier and faster, and more reliable, if you like to repair everything to the last, then watch the repair video.If your car stops starting at some point, the reason may be the starter solenoid relay. But the best place to start is to check it out.If the battery is charged, there are no violations in the electrical circuit, then the reason lies in the starter itself or its components - the starting and solenoid relay.On VAZ 2109 cars, the starter relay is used to activate the windings and transfer the torque from the rotor to the flywheel. When the engine starts, the relay disconnects the drive, cuts off the power.All VAZ cars, including model 2109, have a standard engine start system, which is based on an electric starter. Here's what you need to know about it.

A starter is a small electric motor that, by means of a clutch (bendix), is connected to the flywheel of the motor for a short period of time to start the rotation of the flywheel.

With its small dimensions, the starter passes huge currents through itself.

If the starter circuit were closed directly in the ignition lock, then not a single component of the system would be able to withstand such current loads. As a result, they would have burned out.

Therefore, for these purposes, the starter is connected remotely to the battery via a relay. Its contacts are designed for high currents.

The starter motor works for a short time and should be switched off after starting the engine. Otherwise, its active destruction will begin due to the influence of the motor power.

These tasks are perfectly performed by the relyushka. Actually, it is precisely to ensure the functioning of the system and protection against current, the timely shutdown of the starter, a retractor is included in the design.

Before changing the relay, make sure that the problem with starting the motor is associated with this component.To do this, consider two situations that indicate its malfunction.Your actionsThe relay clicks, but the armature is not spinningIf there are clicks from the relay, check the condition of the armature. For this, the terminals of the retractor are bridged with a large screwdriver or a piece of welding cable to the terminals at the ends. Using a thin wire or screwdriver can easily burn the terminals. When the armature is running, after the terminals are closed, the armature will twist, which can be identified by sound. Consequently, the retractor relay itself is out of order and requires repair.Even if there is silence after the terminals are closed, the problem should be looked for in the starter. The relay no longer plays any role here.Having found that the relyushka has worked its way, it must be replaced or repaired, if possible.

On the one hand, the body is covered with an ebonite or plastic cover. This cover has three terminals on the outside for connecting the wiring.

One of the terminals is designed to connect the "positive" wire from the battery, the second is to supply electricity to the starter motor, and the third is to connect the relay to the ignition switch.

On the inner side of the cover there are two positive terminal plates.

Schematic diagram.

Inside the housing with coils there is an armature, spring loaded on one side, and a starter relay rod.

On the outside, an eyelet is made on the anchor, with which it engages the bendix plug with the gear.

It all works like this: when the engine is off, the anchor of the retractor relay is pulled out of the case due to the action of the spring on it. The same spring holds the bendix with the pinion through the fork in the non-engaging position.

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, the solenoid relay is activated first.

The electrical energy supplied to the solenoid relay coils creates a magnetic field inside the case.

This field acts on the armature, and it, overcoming the force of the spring, enters the body, after which the retractor coil turns off and ceases to create a magnetic field, but in the retracted position the armature is held by its magnetic field by the holding coil.

In this case, the armature pulls the fork along with it, and that, in turn, moves the bendix forward along the rotor shaft, and its gear engages with the flywheel crown.

The armature, entering the inside of the case, pushes the rod of the starter relay, and, shifting, closes the contact plates of the positive terminals together.

Electricity from the battery is supplied to the brushes of the starter motor, and its rotor begins to rotate. And since the gear has already entered into engagement, the rotor begins to rotate the flywheel.

After starting the power plant and turning the key back on the ignition lock, the power supply to the holding coil stops, its magnetic field disappears and the armature leaves the housing under the influence of the spring.

At the same time, it disengages the bendix through the plug, and stops acting on the relay rod. That, in turn, leaving, opens the contact plates, and the starter is completely turned off.

It is not so difficult to troubleshoot a traction relay. It should be noted that its operation is accompanied by a click - this is the result of the armature being pulled in, and the gear engaging.

When turning the key, this click is clearly audible. So, the absence of a click may indicate a break in the coils, lack of power, jamming of the armature in one position.

If, when turning the ignition key, a click is heard, but the starter itself does not start or starts, but turns very slowly, this may signal that the contact plates are burning.

Continued operation of the starter after starting the power plant will be accompanied by a characteristic buzzing sound.

It is possible that the armature is stuck in the retracted position, and it cannot come back, so it keeps the bendix gear in engagement and continues to close the contact plates.

It is not so difficult to check the performance of this element. Moreover, you can check it without even removing the starter from the car. For example, let's take a VAZ-2110 car.

So, the starter on this car does not work. First you need to check the wiring going to it for a break.

If everything is in order with the wiring, you need to find out if the traction relay is triggered at all.

To do this, you can ask someone to turn the ignition key, and listen to yourself if there is a click. If it is absent, it is faulty and you need to change it.

If there is a click of operation, but the starter itself does not turn, it is possible that the relay does not work due to burning of the contact plates.

You can check whether this is so with a regular screwdriver. The terminal coming from the ignition switch is disconnected from the relay.

Next, a screwdriver closes the terminal coming from the battery with the terminal going to the starter - a direct transfer of electricity to the electric motor is obtained, bypassing the relay. If it works, you need to look for the reason in the relay.

You can also check the voltage going to the starter with a multimeter, but this will rather make it clear if the problem lies in the starter or in the wiring and battery.

To do this, a multimeter is connected to the positive terminal of the solenoid relay, to which voltage is supplied from the battery. Connect the other negative lead of the multimeter to ground.

Next, someone has to turn the ignition key to the start position. The voltage on the display of the multimeter should correspond to 12 V.

If it is lower, it is possible that the battery is simply discharged and its energy is not enough to start the engine, but at the same time its charge is enough to trigger the relay, but there is not enough energy to rotate the rotor.

The solenoid relay is not repairable, and in the event of a malfunction, it is simply replaced.

The only thing that can be changed from him is the anchor. Replacing this element with a VAZ-2110 is a simple operation, it is more difficult to remove the starter itself from the car.

For replacement, you will need to dismantle the starter from the car. To do this, the car is driven into a pit, since it can only be reached from below. If the car has a crankcase protection, then it is removed first.

Next, you need to disconnect all the wiring going to the starter. To remove it, you need to unscrew the two nuts of its fastening, after which it is carefully pulled out of the seat.

Already on the removed starter, the two bolts of the retractor relay are unscrewed, and it is removed, while the anchor together with the spring remains on the starter, since it is hooked onto the fork with its eyelet.

Before installing a new element, the old anchor is removed from the plug, and a new one is installed in its place.

Next, the new relay is put on the starter and tightened with the mounting bolts. To consolidate the material covered, we recommend that you watch a training video on how to repair and find faults in the starter retractor relay.

The operation of the device for starting the power unit occurs for a short time. The VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay turns on the windings and transfers torque to the starter flywheel to its rotor. After starting the motor, the solenoid relay turns off the power supply and disconnects the drive.The starter operates at start-up, the rest of the time this unit is in a disabled state.Contact burnout is the most common failure of the solenoid relay. A sufficiently large current passes through them (in the case of normal operation, about 80 A, if there is a large resistance to rotation - 300 A).This leads to the formation of a spark gap, due to which the contacts are burned, and the electrical conductivity decreases.The second, common malfunction is associated with a break in the winding of the solenoid relay. If the winding breaks off at the soldering point with a contact, this can be corrected. If the break occurs in the middle of the winding, you will have to completely change the retractor relay.On VAZ 2109 models, 2 types of starters are used:

with a step-up gear;

with direct drive.

In starters with a direct drive, torque is transferred to the flywheel from the starter shaft, in starters with a gearbox between the rotor and the flywheel of the starter there is a step-up gearbox.You will find a large assortment of remanufactured starters for VAZ in the workshop> - order a call back and find out the details.Before starting work related to the dismantling and installation of machine units, the vehicle must be installed on the handbrake or speed. In addition, the negative terminal of the battery must be disconnected.The battery is connected to the solenoid contact with a large wire. This wire must be disconnected by unscrewing the nut with a key 13.Then, from the solenoid relay, you need to pull out the thin winding power wire.Using a wrench 13, you need to unscrew the 3 nuts with which the starter is attached to the clutch block.Compared to the classics on the VAZ 2109, this procedure is easier. Thanks to the convenient location of all nuts.To unscrew them, you do not need a socket wrench and gimbal. The starter can be removed from the top (for this you need to twist it around its axis), or from the bottom (for this you need to remove the crankcase protection).After removing the starter from the car, you can begin to disassemble it. If this procedure has not been carried out for a long time, most likely, additional accessories will be required to repair it: a fork, brushes and bushings.It must be remembered that VAZ 2109 starters are often beyond repair or can only be partially repaired.So on the original VAZ 2109 starters, it is easy to replace the brushes, you just need to unscrew the old ones from the contacts, and screw the new ones instead.Some manufacturers' brushes need to be welded or soldered. Soldering with tin is not particularly reliable, due to the high current, which can lead to its melting.To eliminate the main malfunctions of the solenoid relay (wire breakage and carbon deposits on the contacts), you will need to disassemble it.First, the nut holding the wire is unscrewed, which goes to the lower contact of the relay from the starter winding. After the relay is completely released, you can unscrew its case from the starter using a screwdriver.The VAZ 2109 starter retractor relay includes a housing, a winding, contacts, a core and a return spring.The spring is responsible for disconnecting the rotor gear from the flywheel rim when the power to the relay coil is turned off.The rear starter cover is fixed to the housing. To gain access to the contacts, you need to unscrew the bolt and remove the cover. If there is carbon deposits on the contacts, it must be cleaned with a file. Image - DIY repair of the retractor vaz 2109

Now it remains to assemble the solenoid relay and check the resistance of its windings.

Video (click to play).

The resistance between the bolt of the solenoid relay located below and the resistance contact should be approximately 0.5 ohms. Approximately 0.7 ohm between body and spade contact.

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