Optimal is finally rawyatina, the front levers were killed in a year completely.
put new bolts. I measured new ones with old ones, they stretch out, put them next to them.
and be sure to use a torque wrench when assembling.
Optimal is finally rawyatina, the front levers were killed in a year completely.
put new bolts. I measured new ones with old ones, they stretch out, put them next to them.
and be sure to use a torque wrench when assembling.
I took the cylinder head to the sink, washed it to a new state, removed the MSC with some kind of Russian-developed puller for 200 rubles, I changed everything, rubbed the current for half a day and then dried it with a friend when you dry it and put it back together, neatly with the working surface of the hydraulic lifters , so as not to damage the walls of the head, I laid a thick cardboard
yes, 25 nm is so before the tightness, you can tighten the Soviet equally, here the last 90 degrees and even the distant bolts, the gimbal barely survived such extreme, and according to the manual 90-90-90 + 30 degrees
So the time has come to repair the internal combustion engine.
Spare parts
Having opened the engine, I was surprised at the horror that was in it - sand, “clay” from old oil, all the channels of the cylinder head were clogged. The 1 cm pan was filled with a “black oil” mass. Everywhere there is dirt, soot ... ugh. All repairs were carried out on their own.
Work
The bulkhead of the motor does not represent anything complicated, the main thing is to study the mat part in advance and have the necessary tool. The hardest part is to install the engine back under the hood (one, with a crane). The simplest thing is to take it out (with three hands). The work took about two weeks (after work, leisurely, sometimes on weekends).
As a result, he does not eat oil yet, the thrust is like that of an airplane, even the sound is different. Consumption has increased slightly - I think, for the running-in period. And the best part is that there is no puddle under the car now)
- oil burner 3 - 3.5 liters of oil per 1000 km,
I put it on repair.
I take off the air line
I remove the timing case, the expansion barrels, the power supply of the injectors, I drain the coolant
I take off the generator, I sign some wires, otherwise I will then remember something where
Under the throttle
I took off the valve cover
I took off the shafts, found that the exhaust and intake shafts were reversed. Can you imagine ??
+ some yokes are not by number.
The head is already without shafts
... and quickly got tired
He took off the cylinder head - remove the faint of heart from the screens
There is a feel of the piston play in the cylinders, later on the exact measurements
but my stove valve is dangling not connected
I remove the starter: the upper thread on the starter is broken off, so the HOOK !! )) (I'm not the collective farm))
Along the way, a valve dehydrator was invented (here you can see a broken eyelet at the starter)
The absorbing one will wait, there is enough while other things to do
I remove the pallet. I have it fucking jammed more than once, apparently (also not by me by the way). PS I think because of this there was oil starvation
The previous owners were just fire)
The infection tray is not removed, you have to remove the block from the pillows and jack it up a little
Bottom view. I took it off at last. I will take a picture of the oil intake pipe with a mesh later, it is also deformed.
He took off the root bearings. They are without much wear and tear, but still for replacement.
But the connecting rod. All 4 look like this. For replacement.
Prolonged detonation worn out the rings - they should be replaced.
The skirts of the pistons are badly damaged, maybe because of overheating, someone says “because of the fact that they are on gas”, someone says “an ordinary working piston”.
The piston is stamped 85.98. Measurements showed
85.95, the 4th piston is true 85.92 - it ate more of it.
Would replace everything, but there is no money (and sense, as my motor guru said). “They look like more,” he said in general.
There is wear and tear, but no steps to the touch. Measurements showed 86.03 at TDC.
3 guides cracked. The rest are badly worn out, for replacement.
Some comrades have thoughts here, they say, the Oil pulled so much through the guides, and pulled SO MUCH, because due to the confused camshafts, the valves were opened at an unnecessary moment and because of the vacuum created by the movement of the piston to the BDC, the oil was simply sucked through the valve seals and guides. %) in my opinion quite abstract
graduation
Pulled out the block. Heavy.Dragged by four
The flywheel is very heavy. dropped it on my pinky when I took it off
He took off the clutch disc - it was already eating up the rivets. Also for replacement
Elbow without much wear:
Engaged in the USR
Of course, everything is jammed. Filled this part with solvent. I cleaned it, filled it again, cleaned it again. like the stem began to move freely.
Email I also cleaned the magnetic valve as best I could, connected it to 12v - it clicks
It remains only to correctly connect to the vacuum, I hope you will help. I already asked a question on the forum, where does the pipe from the USR go ..
Valves. Soak in solvent
Valves without wear, well, we can
0.005 mm
To wash off the oil and mud masses, I used chemistry for Karcher, she did not really do it well.
Modified: radost, 02 Aug 2012 - 21:07 Half of the valve oil seals did not hold on properly - easily removed by hand.
I walked around the block, cylinder head and collectors with nozzles with a metal pile for a drill.
Straightened the crankcase as best he could
The block is terrible. Took a high temperature paint spray can
Cylinders: measurements showed 86.03 at TDC.
85.95, the 4th piston is true 85.92 - it ate more of it.
Regarding cylinder measurements, you need to measure at three points: above, below and in the center of the working part. From these data to reveal what kind of ovality and taper of the cylinder. The maximum allowable is 0.013 mm.
Next, let's look at the clearance between the cylinder and the piston. Tolerance - 0.02 - 0.04 mm. And based on your measurements, it turns out 0.08 mm, which is 2 times higher than the norm. If you change only the piston rings, and leave everything else as is, then the engine will eat even more oil than before parsing. Because the rings will rub against the old surface for a long time. The same goes for the rings that went in this motor. Plus, in the photo you can see that there is no hon in the cylinder (it has worn off). If it is applied, and the minimum can be removed by honing 0.01 mm, the gap already becomes 0.09 mm. Taking into account the fact that the cylinder will most likely have an ovality greater than 0.01 mm, honing cannot correct this either.
It is better to consider the option with block boring and buying a new piston. The option is good for the motor and its further long work. As I suppose, the mileage is clearly in the region of 250 - 300 thousand and the wear of the parts will be in any case, someone has less, someone has more.
Cylinders measured in 3 points, but published data only TDC.
I know about the tolerances, and I myself do not like to leave these pistons, but 1,600 r for boring 4 cylinders + 7 - 8 thousand r for 4 mahle or kolbenschmidt pistons + hone restoration - I don’t know how much it costs, I just don’t have more money (
All I am losing now is rings for 1100 (kolbenschmidt) + N-th amount of oil. After the repair, I will measure the compression, I will tell you, and about the oil intake too.
Threat Guru-mechanic exclusively assured that these pistons still resemble normal,
About costs. Ordered from emex
- Clutch disc LUK322 0232 10 2 051 p.Victor Reinz 023300501 1712 p.Victor Reinz 083196501 1489 p.Ravenol 4014835630253 1412 p.Kolbenschmidt 800021240000 1216 p.Kolbenschmidt 87 393 600 978 p.Kolbenschmidt 814200 719 p.Bosal 265-567 575 p.Ae VAG96029 442 p.Kolbenschmidt 77 268 600 383 p.Kolbenschmidt 50 013 333 296 p.Kolbenschmidt 50 013 722 244 p.Kolbenschmidt 50 013 100 119 p.Bosal 256-919 104 p.
Total 11,740 r
+ later amounts for replacing guides, trimming saddles, etc. Modified: radost, 03 Aug 2012 - 23:43
I know about the tolerances, and I myself do not like to leave these pistons, but 1,600 r for boring 4 cylinders + 7 - 8 thousand r for 4 mahle or kolbenschmidt pistons + hone restoration - I don’t know how much it costs, I just don’t have more money (
All I am losing now is rings for 1100 (kolbenschmidt) + N-th amount of oil. After the repair, I will measure the compression, I will tell you, and about the oil intake too.
Something a lot for boring. We have 1500 rubles for the V-shaped, and 700 rubles for the rowers. per cylinder + this cost includes the application of hone.
Well, since we decided on such an experiment, let's look at the results. Good luck with the renovation.
Message Lekhin "14 Dec 2006 17:50
When the diagnosis was made, I thought about where to do it. Either yourself or take it to the service.
All spare parts were bought only original.
Spare parts:
Consumables:
Cylinder head repair - Motortechnology:
Rented garage with a pit, insulated: = 2000r
The main result:
Let's start a mini report:
2. We begin to disassemble the motor, remove all valves, sensors, disconnect the wiring, remove the timing and pt. In general, everything that can be removed is removed:
3. Unscrew the cylinder head and remove it.
4. But the culprit, the damaged cylinder head gasket, as you can see, one ring broke into two parts:
The photo shows how the anti-freeze corrodes the gasket to the central iron part, which is prone to corrosion.
5. Move on to washing the engine components. There is a lot of dirt.
6. Recently, a dispute has arisen that there is no dirt in the receiver. Here are pictures of what is inside the receiver, as we see there is a lot of dirt, it is just everywhere. I washed the receiver for a couple of days, if not more.
7. Intake valve before (exhaust is even dirtier):
8. Fastening the distributor up to:
9. Working environment in the kitchen :)
10. Then we collect the washed cylinder head, install new MSCs, grind the valves, screw on the manifold. We fasten the assembled head to its rightful place and fasten it with new bolts.
We install hydrics, shafts, stars, pour a little oil on the rubbing parts:
We connect the receiver, part of the wiring, sensors, valves, install the washed nozzles:
Using these marks, we expose the shafts, put on the timing belt, turn the crankshaft a couple of times to determine the contact between the valve and the pistons:
11. We make the engine compartment, as it was before the parsing, we connect everything, check it, fill in water + flush the cooling system, add oil.
Disconnect the ignition coil from the wiring and start turning the engine with the starter :) Spinning is good.
We measure the compression: 14 15 15 15. Almost like a new motor.
Time to work:
I express my gratitude to everyone who prompted and helped took part:
On the recommendation of our client to us from Kam.Polyany the owner of the car contacted Opel Vectra B (1999 Year of release) 134 h.p. with engine X20XEV (volume 2.0 liters). He bought a car recently, with hands. 400 thousand kilometers ... Having heard about such a run, we refused to “change the caps”. Moreover, we were already familiar with Opel's problems with oil consumption firsthand - in 2009 there was an experience of repairing the Opel head with the manufacture of bronze guides, which did not save the owner from removing the head again and replacing the piston rings (despite a run of 300 thousand km , that client at first ignored the recommendation that “it would be necessary to open the bottom too, see what happened to the rings”).
We talked, and even forgot, and after a week and a half the car was already parked at the gate of our box.
Hmm. I didn't really want to take on this, it was obvious that the car had been driven off to the end and "leaked" to an inattentive buyer. The accumulated bouquet of problems foreshadowed a long repair, and most importantly - not cheap. The owner of the car wanted to make a high-quality thorough repair and preferably quickly. The car was left in the box (here the author sighed heavily. ).
The staple diagnostics provided rich food for thought. List of errors:
So, the whole day was spent on diagnostics. An impressive list of errors from the engine control computer was received and the verdict was delivered - a dead ABS unit.
We read reports on the forums - people were removing ABS blocks, soldering rotten tracks (with varying success), reports of unsuccessful sensor replacements were also recorded - new sensors simply did not work due to a conflict with the SimTEC 56.5 computer - sometimes they were changed by 2-3 times before finding the “correct sensor”.
The owner of the car took a time-out for reflection for 3-4 days. Then he called and said - do everything right.
Well, we've got carte blanche for work, we are starting to disassemble the engine.
REMOVING THE ENGINE
We remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold, and we see a huge weld seam. This is the sore spot of the 16-valve Opel engines - the exhaust manifold bursts in half. The collector is cast iron - it makes no sense to cook it! The weld has already burst. The manifold needs to be replaced.
Message # 1 T-duke »03 Sep 2018, 14:03
Yesterday, the whole family was returning from a wedding, all so elegant, according to Murphy's law, it was all late in the evening and naturally outside the city, that is, on the highway, the timing belt breaks off, I immediately realized that the belt was torn off by a short metal clang from the side of the hood and a sharp loss of braking torque by the engine. The 16 valve engine and the valve bends, therefore, replacing the belt will not do. In general, the situation when the engine lived happily ever after and still lived to see the repair.
As a solution, I see two ways so far:
The first is to replace the complete cylinder head. This will be the fastest way if I find the cylinder head in good condition. The solution is quick, but partial. The engine has already run off a lot and still requires either capital, or at least significant repairs.
The second way is overhaul or semi-capital repairs with your own hands. I am inclined to this path because I have long wanted to try to make engine repairs on my own, simply because it is interesting and because the masters are not the same now, you still need to look for good things, and because my favorite thesis - if you want to do something well, do it myself.
In the meantime, I am considering a combined option - replacing the cylinder head so that the car comes to life for a while, but still get ready for repairs. So I decided to share my thoughts and consult here.
So, the preliminary diagnosis:
So far, the engine has not opened, but when the crankshaft rotates with the starter, there is no metal tapping and rattling. This suggests that there are no valve caps that have fallen off, only curvature. This is followed by a second assumption, rather the hope that perhaps the piston is not severely damaged, especially not punctured, may be slightly knocked. Of course, the autopsy will show the whole picture, but so far such considerations and the hope that replacing the cylinder head will give an opportunity to travel some more time and prepare for repairs.
Technological capabilities:
1. To bore in two settings, offset the router head and re-run with a watch. A small transition zone on the surface of the cylinder after boring should be eliminated already at the honing stage. The piston stroke is 86mm, so there will be enough quill capabilities for the ring stroke length. And the section where the piston skirt reaches is less critical. If you squander it right in two settings, and then walk with a hone, then I think everything should work out.
2. Modify the milling cutter to obtain the desired boring stroke, not with a quill, but with the movement of the entire head along the column. The variant is more complicated, but more correct. I'll think about it again.
So far, the degree of piston wear has not been determined, but judging by the fact that the engine has skated more than 300 thousand and begins to slowly eat oil, it is clear that boring is required. I don’t know yet what to do with the pistons.It is clear that a specific answer can be obtained only after measuring the cylinders with an internal gauge, but if the wear is not so great, can only a small fine boring be enough to restore roundness, honing and replacing the rings? On the other hand, if the clearance between the piston and the cylinder is too large, then even with new rings and on a bored cylinder, the piston can still be sausage. Well, this is me thinking aloud, the inner gauge will say more. Although I am inclined to replace the pistons of the nearest repair size.
A separate story with inserts. Both indigenous and connecting rod. Until I can imagine the picture and what to do with them. According to the mind, you need to grind the crankshaft journals to a repair size and install repair liners. On the other hand, everything again depends on the degree of wear and tear and measurements with a micrometer will show the real picture. And if the wear of the necks is not great? Maybe then not to touch anything and this whole thing will be enough for another 150-200 thousand mileage?
The foreword of one that I once studied to be a programmer. I was not particularly friendly with anyone at the university, well, I'm not interested in communicating with people who play LineAge all night, and then all the couples talk about him. Well, I'm not a computer scientist in my life. There was a good guy Dimka among his classmates, who didn't really represent anything, well, he will buy himself a Lacetti on credit and will skate, I thought. And then in the classroom he declares to me: he bought a car! Yes, what! Then I changed my views a little about him.
You can imagine what state it was in. The whole salon is soiled, the body is bit and crookedly welded, and most importantly the engine! He smoked antifreeze and spat butter.
I was engaged in twisting a piece of iron all day, I was stretching myself, tired, I’m going to go to bed, Dimka calls: come on, he says, we’ll drag Omega from the dacha to your garage. Well, damn it, in the middle of the night. We sat down and went. In some half-sleep I saw the car, did not want to start it and did not even try. Taken on a tie, drove, 60 km in total. Dima on my mother's Zafira drags me, half asleep trying to catch the lane, the headlights don't shine, the wipers don't work, the emergency gang blinks so that the cops don't stick around. Somehow they pushed him into the garage and went to bed.
From here, in fact, the story of the bulkhead begins.
We take out the cylinder head:
We drain the oil from the engine. On the left, as you know, the oil filter:
In short, we order spare parts, namely:
Something was ordered wrong. There was simply not enough money for something, so if, in your opinion, it was necessary to change something else, the owner still told me what to change and what not. He's not known where he bought such parts as Mopisan pistons and a Chinese ignition coil. As you can see, Mopisan, despite the price of 4000r, demanded a separate purchase of Mahle rings worth 1600, although the assembly of the piston + Mahle ring costs 2000r, a total of 8000r for the engine. Saved 1500r on Turkish pistons.
Inomotor, however, did its job well. The block was bored out for +0.5 repairs, and the first 3 cylinders were at +0.25, the fourth was worse, the crankshaft was bored out for 0.25 liners. The central insert is U-shaped, i.e. as if one whole with persistent half-rings. Accordingly, the crankshaft counterweights must also be sharpened under the repair liner. A notch was removed from the side of the frontal oil seal, literally 0.07 was pierced. The plane of the block had to be sanded, the cylinder head was also sanded, and by 0.35. They have the service "plane grinding" up to 0.25, I had to pay extra. Well, the torn off hairpins in the cylinder head were turned out. Conveniently on the machine, the thread remains intact. We reprinted the new pistons on the old connecting rods, observing the order. 12000r for everything.
While the parts were running, I was cleaning the valves. The essence is simple, we tighten the piston in the drill through a piece of paper, turn on and bring sandpaper from coarse to fine.
Video (click to play).
Dad suggested the solution. Sun says the valves are acidic. Orthoporic acid was originally red, look how it turned after overnight:
