DIY x20xev repair

In detail: do-it-yourself x20xev repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello to all OOB lovers, here I joined the ranks.
So a little introduction.
We have an Opel Omega B, 1998 onwards, a friend's father drove her back in 2000 to Russia, then after 7 years he gave it to his son, and the adventure began. in 2010, the timing belt broke. the car stood for almost a year, due to the owner's illness, after that it hit two super-motorists and a good friend in turn - well, the result was that the car was driven almost without antifreeze and mines. oils.
Finally he (a friend) got tired and the car came to me for a symbolic price. by that time, there were problems with the electrician. Fortunately, I work as an auto electrician. so he started, now his own, omezhka and moved to the place of repair.
That we have a pungent smell of oil, smoke from under the hood, exhaust like an ekarus, a difficult start, but at the same time it goes pretty well.
Under the hood, chaos and a sea of blood that is called .. Since there is experience in repairing engines together with a friend took up this enterprise.
But enough emotion, let's go.
1. here [attachmentid = 88803]
it looks like the wiring after the miracle of electricians

But such a picture opened after opening
[attachmentid = 88804] [attachmentid = 88805]
[attachmentid = 88806] [attachmentid = 88807]
The forecast is not very encouraging, but there is nowhere to go.
Since the funds, as always, are not enough for an iron horse in the family, it was decided to divide the repairs into several stages.

We decided to start with a friend with the cylinder head.
The poured kerosene was in no hurry to slip through the valves, and the measurement of the cylinder head plane left hope for a budget repair option, since we do not have minders at the service, I will repeat everything ourselves.
So, if the plane of the cylinder head is normal and the valve is not bent, the budget will be like this
1.Oil valve seals Febi 2741 1.6-2.0 16v 6mm 22 = 00 * 16pcs-352 = 00 rubles
2.Camshaft oil seal Febi 5102 35x48x7 77 = 00 * 2pcs —– 154 = 00 rubles
3.Shariki valves Opel 642368 6mm 24 = 00 * 16pcs - 384 = 00 rubles
Over the weekend, I will completely disassemble the cylinder head with a photo report and continue to supplement it, I apologize to the moderators if I did it incorrectly or placed it incorrectly, I am ready to accept criticism without offense, as well as help in creating a repair report for x20xev.

Video (click to play).

Thank you

No thanks

eskimozzz 21 Apr 2012

Thank you

No thanks

eskimozzz 21 Apr 2012

Optimal is finally rawyatina, the front levers were killed in a year completely.
About the fabies, while their bones are up and the center rod. while the rules.
caps also have a phoebe

put new bolts. I measured new ones with old ones, they stretch out, put them next to them.

and be sure to use a torque wrench when assembling.

Optimal is finally rawyatina, the front levers were killed in a year completely.
About the fabies, while their bones are up and the center rod. while the rules.
caps also have a phoebe

put new bolts. I measured new ones with old ones, they stretch out, put them next to them.

and be sure to use a torque wrench when assembling.

I took the cylinder head to the sink, washed it to a new state, removed the MSC with some kind of Russian-developed puller for 200 rubles, I changed everything, rubbed the current for half a day and then dried it with a friend when you dry it and put it back together, neatly with the working surface of the hydraulic lifters , so as not to damage the walls of the head, I laid a thick cardboard

yes, 25 nm is so before the tightness, you can tighten the Soviet equally, here the last 90 degrees and even the distant bolts, the gimbal barely survived such extreme, and according to the manual 90-90-90 + 30 degrees

So the time has come to repair the internal combustion engine.
Symptoms are oil consumption and leakage, impaired cravings. Along the way, the release bearing failed.
It was decided to make repairs without removing the gearbox and the subframe - pull the engine out through the top.

Spare parts
- all seals of the internal combustion engine
- all internal combustion engine gaskets
- piston rings
- connecting rod bearings
- clutch disc and bearing
- oil seal of the right gearbox drive
- laying of the gearbox pallet
- valve stem seals

Having opened the engine, I was surprised at the horror that was in it - sand, “clay” from old oil, all the channels of the cylinder head were clogged. The 1 cm pan was filled with a “black oil” mass. Everywhere there is dirt, soot ... ugh. All repairs were carried out on their own.

Work
- washing everything and everyone
- lapping valves
- disassembly / assembly

The bulkhead of the motor does not represent anything complicated, the main thing is to study the mat part in advance and have the necessary tool. The hardest part is to install the engine back under the hood (one, with a crane). The simplest thing is to take it out (with three hands). The work took about two weeks (after work, leisurely, sometimes on weekends).

As a result, he does not eat oil yet, the thrust is like that of an airplane, even the sound is different. Consumption has increased slightly - I think, for the running-in period. And the best part is that there is no puddle under the car now)

- oil burner 3 - 3.5 liters of oil per 1000 km,
- oil oozed from most of the gaskets,
- it was gaining momentum sluggishly, it felt about 40 - 50 hp.
- there was no dynamics at all
- fuel consumption 14 liters. per 100 km
- periodically shoots at the inlet and outlet
- bryat (probably) the wetsuit
- Egr valve does not work
- the stove valve does not work
- dprv and dpkv do not work periodically
- finished retractors on the starter

I put it on repair.
Unfortunately, not all photos are of good quality.

I take off the air line

I remove the timing case, the expansion barrels, the power supply of the injectors, I drain the coolant

I take off the generator, I sign some wires, otherwise I will then remember something where

Under the throttle

I took off the valve cover

I took off the shafts, found that the exhaust and intake shafts were reversed. Can you imagine ??
It is surprising that the car drove in principle, now it became clear why the error of the camshaft sensor (92) was burning, then it went out, then the error of the crankshaft sensor (19) came on.

+ some yokes are not by number.

The head is already without shafts
I have not yet found the cause of the clatter. He suppressed the gidriki, like all the intact ones. We didn't have enough oil. let's figure it out

... and quickly got tired

He took off the cylinder head - remove the faint of heart from the screens

There is a feel of the piston play in the cylinders, later on the exact measurements

but my stove valve is dangling not connected

I remove the starter: the upper thread on the starter is broken off, so the HOOK !! )) (I'm not the collective farm))

Along the way, a valve dehydrator was invented (here you can see a broken eyelet at the starter)

The absorbing one will wait, there is enough while other things to do

I remove the pallet. I have it fucking jammed more than once, apparently (also not by me by the way). PS I think because of this there was oil starvation

The previous owners were just fire)

The infection tray is not removed, you have to remove the block from the pillows and jack it up a little

Bottom view. I took it off at last. I will take a picture of the oil intake pipe with a mesh later, it is also deformed.

He took off the root bearings. They are without much wear and tear, but still for replacement.

But the connecting rod. All 4 look like this. For replacement.

Prolonged detonation worn out the rings - they should be replaced.

The skirts of the pistons are badly damaged, maybe because of overheating, someone says “because of the fact that they are on gas”, someone says “an ordinary working piston”.

The piston is stamped 85.98. Measurements showed

85.95, the 4th piston is true 85.92 - it ate more of it.

Would replace everything, but there is no money (and sense, as my motor guru said). “They look like more,” he said in general.

There is wear and tear, but no steps to the touch. Measurements showed 86.03 at TDC.

3 guides cracked. The rest are badly worn out, for replacement.

Some comrades have thoughts here, they say, the Oil pulled so much through the guides, and pulled SO MUCH, because due to the confused camshafts, the valves were opened at an unnecessary moment and because of the vacuum created by the movement of the piston to the BDC, the oil was simply sucked through the valve seals and guides. %) in my opinion quite abstract

graduation

Pulled out the block. Heavy.Dragged by four

The flywheel is very heavy. dropped it on my pinky when I took it off

He took off the clutch disc - it was already eating up the rivets. Also for replacement

Elbow without much wear:

Engaged in the USR
It was disconnected from the vacuum and sealed with a gasket.

Of course, everything is jammed. Filled this part with solvent. I cleaned it, filled it again, cleaned it again. like the stem began to move freely.

Email I also cleaned the magnetic valve as best I could, connected it to 12v - it clicks

It remains only to correctly connect to the vacuum, I hope you will help. I already asked a question on the forum, where does the pipe from the USR go ..

Valves. Soak in solvent

Valves without wear, well, we can

0.005 mm

To wash off the oil and mud masses, I used chemistry for Karcher, she did not really do it well.
I went and bought a profoam 1000 - a strong thing - it helped. The truth ran out quickly for me (

Modified: radost, 02 Aug 2012 - 21:07

Half of the valve oil seals did not hold on properly - easily removed by hand.

I walked around the block, cylinder head and collectors with nozzles with a metal pile for a drill.

Straightened the crankcase as best he could

The block is terrible. Took a high temperature paint spray can

Cylinders: measurements showed 86.03 at TDC.
Piston: measurements showed

85.95, the 4th piston is true 85.92 - it ate more of it.

Regarding cylinder measurements, you need to measure at three points: above, below and in the center of the working part. From these data to reveal what kind of ovality and taper of the cylinder. The maximum allowable is 0.013 mm.

Next, let's look at the clearance between the cylinder and the piston. Tolerance - 0.02 - 0.04 mm. And based on your measurements, it turns out 0.08 mm, which is 2 times higher than the norm. If you change only the piston rings, and leave everything else as is, then the engine will eat even more oil than before parsing. Because the rings will rub against the old surface for a long time. The same goes for the rings that went in this motor. Plus, in the photo you can see that there is no hon in the cylinder (it has worn off). If it is applied, and the minimum can be removed by honing 0.01 mm, the gap already becomes 0.09 mm. Taking into account the fact that the cylinder will most likely have an ovality greater than 0.01 mm, honing cannot correct this either.

It is better to consider the option with block boring and buying a new piston. The option is good for the motor and its further long work. As I suppose, the mileage is clearly in the region of 250 - 300 thousand and the wear of the parts will be in any case, someone has less, someone has more.

Cylinders measured in 3 points, but published data only TDC.

I know about the tolerances, and I myself do not like to leave these pistons, but 1,600 r for boring 4 cylinders + 7 - 8 thousand r for 4 mahle or kolbenschmidt pistons + hone restoration - I don’t know how much it costs, I just don’t have more money (

All I am losing now is rings for 1100 (kolbenschmidt) + N-th amount of oil. After the repair, I will measure the compression, I will tell you, and about the oil intake too.

Threat Guru-mechanic exclusively assured that these pistons still resemble normal,
if it's really bad, I'll throw off my head again when I dig up the required amount.

About costs. Ordered from emex

- Clutch disc LUK322 0232 10 2 051 p.
- Gasket set, cylinder head Victor Reinz 023300501 1712 p.
- Gasket set, crankcase Victor Reinz 083196501 1489 p.
- Motor oil VSI sae5w40 5l Ravenol 4014835630253 1412 p.
- Set of piston rings Kolbenschmidt 800021240000 1216 p.
- Root liners Kolbenschmidt 87 393 600 978 p.
- Intake valve guides Kolbenschmidt 814200 719 p.
- Metal corrugation, exhaust system Bosal 265-567 575 p.
- Exhaust guides Ae VAG96029 442 p.
- Connecting rod bushings Kolbenschmidt 77 268 600 383 p.
- Air filter Kolbenschmidt 50 013 333 296 p.
- Cabin filter Kolbenschmidt 50 013 722 244 p.
- Oil filter Kolbenschmidt 50 013 100 119 p.
- Laying m / y outlet and receiving pipe Bosal 256-919 104 p.

Total 11,740 r

+ later amounts for replacing guides, trimming saddles, etc.
Modified: radost, 03 Aug 2012 - 23:43

All I am losing now is rings for 1100 (kolbenschmidt) + N-th amount of oil. After the repair, I will measure the compression, I will tell you, and about the oil intake too.

Something a lot for boring. We have 1500 rubles for the V-shaped, and 700 rubles for the rowers. per cylinder + this cost includes the application of hone.
If the repair was limited to a limited budget, then why was the piston dismantled? The engine would still resemble even such pistons. We would have limited ourselves only to repairing the head, replacing gaskets and oil seals, the oil was already consumed less.

Well, since we decided on such an experiment, let's look at the results. Good luck with the renovation.

Message Lekhin "14 Dec 2006 17:50

When the diagnosis was made, I thought about where to do it. Either yourself or take it to the service.
The sixth sense told me what to do myself, for technical development.
Almost immediately, the main assistant was found - Ser-G, who agreed to do the repairs with me.
A couple of days later I found a garage in the area and rented it. The garage is insulated, with a pit, lighting. The price was very attractive, so there was no choice.
Moved the car in tow to the garage. A list of spare parts and material was compiled. All bought and rushed.
On the advice of a friend, it was decided to repair the cylinder head at MotorTechnology, as it later turned out that not only did the cylinder head gasket deteriorate, but also the head started from overheating.

All spare parts were bought only original.
There is a possibility that I forgot to include something on this list.
It is also necessary to use torque wrenches.

Spare parts:
- Block head gasket (5607628) = 16.44E
- Exhaust manifold gasket (089934) = 17.03E
- Valve cover gasket = 410p
- Intake manifold gasket (0850655) = 2.14E
- Rings for bolts on the valve cover - (10pcs) = 8p, 8 * 10 = 80p
- Valve seals - (16pcs) = 40r, 16 * 40 = 640r
- Oil filter = 75r
- Opel antifreeze (2l.) = 100r, 2 * 100 = 200r
- thermostat = 850r
- exhaust studs (m8 * 25, 5850764-OE) = 0.78, 10 * 0.78 = 7.8E
- cylinder head bolts (0607256) = 1.83, 10 * 1.83 = 18.3E
- [13 42 561] Temperature sensor = 13.5E
- SEPARATOR, OIL 5656098 = 430r
- GASKET, FLANGE TO CYLINDER BLOCK 0656842 = 25r
- SEAL, IGNITION COIL ADAPTER TO CYLINDER HEAD 1208951 = 2.04E
- GASKET, BYPASS HOUSING TO CYLINDER HEAD 0607505 = 1.35E
- GASKET, OIL PAN lower = 480r
- SCREW, M10 X 82, GEAR WHEEL TO CAMSHAFT 0636965 1.3 * 2 = 2.6E
- SEAL, RING, 35 X 48 X 7, CAMSHAFT SUPPORT 0636841 5 * 2 = 10E
- [13 04 209] expansion tank = 12.31E
- Gasket IAC = 1.5E
- Air gasket valve (08 57 550) = 0.4E
- Throttle gasket = 20r
- Nut of the exhaust manifold 10 * 10 = 100r
- oil tube gasket = 25r
- Mahle gas filter = 300r
Total: 105.41E + 3635r

Consumables:
- Acetone (500ml) -2 * 35 = 70r
- Solvent (500ml) = 30r
- Flushing the cooling system Liqui Moly = 160r
- Distilled water (1l.) -3 * 10 = 30r
- Castrol GTS 5w40 synthetic oil (4l.) -1000r + 200r = 1200r
- Paste for grinding valves = 35r
- ABRO carburetor cleaner -7 * 70r = 490r
Total: = 2015r

Cylinder head repair - Motortechnology:
1. Washing cylinder head = 200r
2. Pressing the cylinder head parallel. = 920r
3. Removal of solo hairpins = 300r
4. Grinding cylinder head parallel benz AL = 640r
Total: = 2060r

Rented garage with a pit, insulated: = 2000r

The main result:
10510 RUB + 105.41 Euro

Let's start a mini report:
1. Engine compartment, before disassembly:

2. We begin to disassemble the motor, remove all valves, sensors, disconnect the wiring, remove the timing and pt. In general, everything that can be removed is removed:

3. Unscrew the cylinder head and remove it.

4. But the culprit, the damaged cylinder head gasket, as you can see, one ring broke into two parts:

The photo shows how the anti-freeze corrodes the gasket to the central iron part, which is prone to corrosion.

5. Move on to washing the engine components. There is a lot of dirt.
Valve cover-DO:

And after washing. I washed it thoroughly, especially the cavity where the blow-by gases come from.

6. Recently, a dispute has arisen that there is no dirt in the receiver. Here are pictures of what is inside the receiver, as we see there is a lot of dirt, it is just everywhere. I washed the receiver for a couple of days, if not more.

But what he began to look like after washing (as you can see, the difference is significant):

We put the receiver back, and coat the gasket with a heat-resistant sealant, because this gasket will be very shabby, but where to find a new one, the same-HZ.

We fasten the washed throttle and IAC:

7. Intake valve before (exhaust is even dirtier):

And after cleaning:

8. Fastening the distributor up to:

And after:

9. Working environment in the kitchen :)

10. Then we collect the washed cylinder head, install new MSCs, grind the valves, screw on the manifold. We fasten the assembled head to its rightful place and fasten it with new bolts.
Against the background of the rest of the cylinder head, it stands out like a diamond in byak :)

We install hydrics, shafts, stars, pour a little oil on the rubbing parts:

We connect the receiver, part of the wiring, sensors, valves, install the washed nozzles:

Using these marks, we expose the shafts, put on the timing belt, turn the crankshaft a couple of times to determine the contact between the valve and the pistons:

11. We make the engine compartment, as it was before the parsing, we connect everything, check it, fill in water + flush the cooling system, add oil.

Disconnect the ignition coil from the wiring and start turning the engine with the starter :) Spinning is good.
We connect the wiring to the coil and start the motor - start -> just fine.
Because I washed the wetsuit, then for about 30 minutes they will knock harder than a diesel engine, all the moisture will evaporate, incl. there will be smoke, especially from the collector.
At first, the brains of the car will be tuned, tk. the car can stall.

We measure the compression: 14 15 15 15. Almost like a new motor.
We drain all the antifreeze and fill in the normal-original, and we go to run in the car.
I ran it like this: I ran about 100 km, not exceeding 3000 rpm, during this run, I noticed that the twentieth century had high revs, 1500-2000. At first I was in a panic, but then everything sorted out.
Further about 50 km, I turned the engine up to 6000 rpm, after such a procedure, XX became normal, 900 rpm.
After running in, I change the old oil to the new Castrol 5v40 and that's it.
The engine is running, pleasing to the eye.
I noticed that the car became easier to drive, the engine runs evenly, it became noticeably faster. No failures, nothing.
In general, the runaway ponies are back.

Time to work:
disassembling the engine: about 5 hours.
The cylinder head repair at Motortechnology took a week (due to the relocation of production).
Assembling the engine takes a day.

I express my gratitude to everyone who prompted and helped took part:
Mega Respect: Ser-G
vectra-club: sania, Roman, Sorokin_Vadin, Yastreb-75, pilot_svl.
zrt: Val, AngerPRO
team-rs: Mitay
Spare parts: To the commission, for the selection of the necessary spare parts.
opel-club: Sergey_
if you haven’t registered anyone, then don’t be offended, it’s hard to remember everyone.

On the recommendation of our client to us from Kam.Polyany the owner of the car contacted Opel Vectra B (1999 Year of release) 134 h.p. with engine X20XEV (volume 2.0 liters). He bought a car recently, with hands.
Initially, on the phone, a desire was voiced to change the valve stem seals (huge oil consumption), the question about the car's mileage was answered - 400 thousand kilometers... Having heard about such a run, we refused to “change the caps”. Moreover, we were already familiar with Opel's problems with oil consumption firsthand - in 2009 there was an experience of repairing the Opel head with the manufacture of bronze guides, which did not save the owner from removing the head again and replacing the piston rings (despite a run of 300 thousand km , that client at first ignored the recommendation that “it would be necessary to open the bottom too, see what happened to the rings”).
In general, regarding the “replacement of the caps”, we answered that “at such a run, it is necessary either to watch everything, or we will not even touch the car, so that there is no frustration from the lack of results”.

We talked, and even forgot, and after a week and a half the car was already parked at the gate of our box.

ACCEPTANCE FOR REPAIR

Hmm. I didn't really want to take on this, it was obvious that the car had been driven off to the end and "leaked" to an inattentive buyer. The accumulated bouquet of problems foreshadowed a long repair, and most importantly - not cheap. The owner of the car wanted to make a high-quality thorough repair and preferably quickly. The car was left in the box (here the author sighed heavily. ).

DIAGNOSTICS

The staple diagnostics provided rich food for thought. List of errors:
- Faulty air flow meter
- No signal from the speed sensor
- Lambda probe sensor error
- Crankshaft sensor error (crank sensor)
- Camshaft sensor error (camshaft sensor)
- Malfunction of the ignition coil 14 cylinder
- Malfunction of the ignition coil 23 cylinder

So, the whole day was spent on diagnostics. An impressive list of errors from the engine control computer was received and the verdict was delivered - a dead ABS unit.
In addition to repairing the engine, it was necessary to replace the main (and rather expensive) sensors, to solve the problem with the speedometer.

We read reports on the forums - people were removing ABS blocks, soldering rotten tracks (with varying success), reports of unsuccessful sensor replacements were also recorded - new sensors simply did not work due to a conflict with the SimTEC 56.5 computer - sometimes they were changed by 2-3 times before finding the “correct sensor”.

The owner of the car took a time-out for reflection for 3-4 days. Then he called and said - do everything right.

Well, we've got carte blanche for work, we are starting to disassemble the engine.

REMOVING THE ENGINE

We remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold, and we see a huge weld seam. This is the sore spot of the 16-valve Opel engines - the exhaust manifold bursts in half. The collector is cast iron - it makes no sense to cook it! The weld has already burst. The manifold needs to be replaced.

Message # 1 T-duke »03 Sep 2018, 14:03

Yesterday, the whole family was returning from a wedding, all so elegant, according to Murphy's law, it was all late in the evening and naturally outside the city, that is, on the highway, the timing belt breaks off, I immediately realized that the belt was torn off by a short metal clang from the side of the hood and a sharp loss of braking torque by the engine. The 16 valve engine and the valve bends, therefore, replacing the belt will not do. In general, the situation when the engine lived happily ever after and still lived to see the repair.