DIY rear wing repair

In detail: do-it-yourself rear wing repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust.

In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.

Video (click to play).

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This is, in fact, quite an interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then it will be better for us to understand how to deal with it. The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.

We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.

Oleg, hello! Please tell me if I will do the right thing ... Three small holes have formed on my door (under the factory vibration isolation everything is completely rusty and as a result 3 holes, the car is 3 years old, Kalina2).I want to tin them, cover them with epoxy primer, then putty with a finishing putty, prime them with a regular primer and paint over everything. Tell me, will I do it all correctly in stages?

Hello. Can you please tell me how you missed the net?

The method is of course a working one, but by welding it can be done 100 times faster in labor costs.

here we are not talking about labor costs, but about reliability and the fact that not everyone has welding

Who repairs such things, those who have it)))

Epoxy would not be better?

Uncle Olezha, everything is fine, but the lack of students' workwear is striking.
A guy from Makhachkala comes straight in a weekend jacket to the garage

no guys in a robe go to and from work

Interesting and useful video, among other things, like everyone else! Can you use this method on the doors in the corners?

It often happens that light vehicles are involved in road accidents. Often these are minor and minor accidents, as a result of which the front fender is slightly dented or scratched. Naturally, you can go to the workshop, where they will conduct an inspection and establish the full scope of faults, as well as assess the damage and eliminate all damage received. However, it is quite possible to repair the wing on your own, if you own the theory and know how and can use some tools. Skills like these can help you save money on repairs.

Most motorists have the right skills to repair a car, as well as know what materials and tools are needed for this and how exactly they should be used. If you have no doubts about your theoretical knowledge, it may be worth putting it into practice. For example, let's take the most common case, namely damage to the front fenders. Also, do not forget about the possibility of different types of damage, because there are cases when even the best specialists refuse to take on the straightening and painting of the wing. Then it will be more rational to replace this part.

All you need to do your own straightening:

Jack. In choosing a jack, a hydraulic one will still be the best option, but if there is no such, then a standard rack and pinion will do;

Set of hydraulic jacks

Jack accessories, namely extension cords of different lengths. For a hydraulic jack, you will need pieces of a round and thick pipe, for a rack and pinion, pieces of a square pipe, stably fixed on a toothed rack. Pipes that have a square shape can be easily built from two corners welded together. The length of the extension cord should be between 40 and 45 centimeters;
A straightening, rubber hammer is required, as well as massive support;
The presence of sufficiently strong wooden bars, at least a couple of pieces, will not hurt;
And also several varieties of sandpaper from No. 80 to No. 600.

Only having prepared all this, you can begin to start leveling the formed dent.

Straightening tool kit

Before starting work, be sure to remove the front wheel from the side of the damaged fender. Place a secure stand directly under the jack socket. Then you need to select one appropriate block and place it under the wing itself, on the stiffener near the headlamp recess. Then place the second block on the front panel of the body, or rather, in the rear section of the wing. The next step is to slide the square tube extension onto the rack of the jack. The jack itself with an extension cord must be placed between the bars. After that, you need to start working with the jack, as in the usual situation of lifting the car, thereby expanding the wing from the inside and stretching the resulting fold.Thus, the existing "bubble" will noticeably decrease, and most likely completely disappear, leaving behind only a small dent in the lower part of the wing. Having completed these steps, the time will come for the straightening of the wing itself.

Let's start by applying the support to the front side, then you need to straighten the remaining dent by tapping the wing from the inside with a straightening hammer or rubber mallet, without trying to loosen the jack. There is a possibility that a small area will remain with a defect at the decorative embossing line on the wing. However, even in this situation, there is a way to solve the problem, it is necessary to wrap a wooden rail with a rag and place it directly under the line, after installing the rail, you need to be hammer on it. This will help remove the bloating.

The embossed line is present in almost every part of the car body, since it is not only a decorative element, but also a stiffening rib of the body. If a section with a stiffener is damaged during an accident, then first it is necessary to bring the rib line to the starting state, and only after that proceed to other sections.

Also, metal tends to have residual elasticity, which may well again lead to deformation with a sharp weakening, so do not rush to loosen the jack after completing the straightening. To avoid repeated deformation, at the end of the work, pull out the jack for at least one or two clicks. This will transfer the elasticity of the material, formed due to deformation, and only after that you can safely remove the jack.

Often there is a case when, for no apparent reason, a slight swelling outward forms on the wing of a car, visible to the naked eye. If you lightly press on such a formation with your hand, then the swelling will disappear with its characteristic click, similar to a clapperboard. However, any kind of push to the place of the irregularity of the wing, and the swelling will reappear, such cases can appear indefinitely. A similar defect appears due to the fact that the metal has stretched, and a kind of surplus has formed, which has nowhere to go but bend in this way.

Understanding the cause of the swelling, we can find a solution to the problem, that is, we need to remove the excess metal by stretching the wing. Again, you need to use a decorative line. It is also necessary to wrap the rail with a rag and rest it against the embossed line of the body. To knock this rail from below with a hammer so that the wing is pulled under the line, a couple of blows will be enough to remove the swelling and give the wing its former elasticity and rigidity.

Performing any kind of straightening work, you will definitely have to use lifting devices. When using them, it is important to remember the safety rules:

Never leave the car raised on a jack; you need to use sufficiently strong supports to ensure the reliability of the structure. Having installed the jack on the hood of the body elements, you should make sure of its stability and the absence of sliding of the jack;
You only need to use a tool that is serviceable and suitable for work. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the hammer head. The very same handle of the hammer must be without different types of chips, burrs and cracks, and it must also be perfectly smooth;
When performing any work, you must wear gloves or ordinary cotton gloves to protect your hands.

In all previous versions of deformation, wing repair was practically not used, only cases were considered when it was possible to stretch the wing using a jack and slightly correct the metal at the base of the ribs. It is worth remembering that the blows sometimes do not come to the end part of the wing, but directly from the side, forming a clear dent. Such damage cannot be repaired using only pulling, you will need to use straightening.The essence of the work performed is to get rid of the resulting elongations and "excess" metal. It is necessary to disperse the surplus evenly into a large number of small bulges and the more there are, and also the smaller they are, the better the job will be done.It is worth knowing that for the correct elimination of such formations, straightening must start from the edge of the dent and continue to move along it, using the principle of a narrowing spiral, ending everything in the very center.First of all, you need to establish the place where the dent ends. In order to do this, it is necessary to carry out the formation of a straightening file crosswise, then using a hammer with a pointed beak and special supports, begin to knock the wing out. When the metal becomes taut, it is time to level the dent itself, in order to do this, we need a straightening "saw". You should not be afraid to pierce the metal, despite its thickness of 0.5 mm, it is quite difficult to completely remove such a layer.After completing all the work, you need to start leveling the surface itself, and for this it is worth using a putty. After processing with sandpaper, it will become visible exactly where and in what quantity it is necessary to apply the putty. The procedure is as follows:

The hardened first layer, sand with the use of abrasive paper no. 120;

Then use paper # 220 for sanding the next layer;

The final, for the removal of visible defects, will be # 360;

And the final one for leveling the surface from small scratches will be No. 600.

Now minor defects and dents in the front fenders of your car can be corrected on your own, it is also worth knowing that repairing and painting the rear fender is exactly the same as the procedure applied to the front. This knowledge will help you troubleshoot such problems yourself.Many Premasya owners and others are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it at the initial stage, avoiding the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a donor organ transplant in the form of a wing patch will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and it looks something like this:True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can go straight to the end, where you will find out how you can protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disk and clean off the swollen paint, carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will then rise:You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper, so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if the layers of primer and paint are consistently visible:To speed up the process, you can first take a coarser skin - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk of a rougher 220 will not close with soil, so do not climb far to it. The rest of the surface is matted with 600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not get clogged, so after that it is necessary to dry thoroughly with prof. a hairdryer, especially caverns from corrosion, can be heated up to 60-80g, the paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttingtying is that they smear it with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with a sandpaper. It will be correct to apply 3-4 layers in succession, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should look something like this:On top of the ground, apply a thin layer of a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a spray can. The dried soil is rubbed with 600-800 sandpaper with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water, sandpaper 1000 and then Scotchbrite. The result is a smooth matte surface:We paste over, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about paints. I do not advise you to consider cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture poorly. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist can match a color 100%. It is believed in narrow circles that 70-80% of color matching depends on the colorist, the rest depends on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, paint the paint. A good painter will never paint end-to-end parts, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part, you have to paint two or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire wing, make the transition to the door and bumper:As a result, there will be no discoloration even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and under a lamp in the evening, as if parts from different cars?Corrosion of the arch begins with damage to the edge by small stones flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, it is necessary to protect this place. We buy elastic bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for VAZ-08. Cutting off the excess:We coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive well on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again coat it from the inside of the wing so that the water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, you get this beauty:What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to shorten the repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on the diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Provided the technology is followed, it provides quite sufficient quality:Here is such a repair, nothing too complicated, go for it! Image - DIY rear wing repair

Fenders of a car often suffer from an accident, and are also exposed to stones flying out from under the wheels, as they are located near the roadway. The main way to restore the body elements of the car is straightening followed by repainting. The next step is how to align a car wing with your own hands.

The straightening equipment includes, first of all, hammers. There are several types of such tools, differing in shape and purpose. Flat head hammers are used to straighten flat surfaces. Variants with a convex striker are used for processing convex surfaces. Notched tools are designed to work on elongated surfaces. Smooth models are used for anti-aliasing. The named types of straightening hammers are made from tool steel.

In addition to these tools, files with large notches are used for car straightening. Small surfaces are leveled with them. Hooks squeeze out the dents from the back. They are also made from tool steel. Anvils and supports are used to support the metal from the back during straightening work. They are composed of brass. Usually, all equipment is purchased in kits, the cost of which is determined by how many tools they include. You can buy them separately, but this is more difficult, since you need to know how many and what tools are required for straightening.

Do-it-yourself straightening of the car should be carried out in protective equipment, represented by overalls, glasses, gloves.

You need to work in a well-lit room.On the net you can find a video about the preparation of equipment and premises for straightening.

A distinction should be made between straightening and stretching. The second type of work is the initial stage of body repair. It is performed using hydraulic and screw jacks. Then the skews of the body are pulled out on the slipway. Finally, the car body is measured with a specialized ruler and the values obtained are compared with the factory parameters. They switch to straightening only by completely eliminating the distortions.

There are three types of straightening work, allocated on the basis of implementation technology.This method is characterized by a high speed of performance of work and compares favorably with other options in that in this case the paintwork of the car is preserved. However, the main condition for the use of this straightening technology is its integrity. It should also be borne in mind that these works require expensive specialized equipment, although there are technologies for straightening dents without painting with improvised means.This technology is much more widespread. It implies the elimination of defects remaining after stretching of the deformed material. When doing such work with your own hands, careful calculation and distribution of the impact on the metal is required in order to avoid the formation of flaps, which are understood as excess material formed as a result of excessive stretching. Therefore, when carrying out such work, smooth hammers are especially relevant.This technology is used in cases where the stretching of the metal is so significant that it cannot be eliminated by other means. The essence of the work consists in shrinkage with the use of smooth hammers and support of fragments of the working surface heated by a gas burner with an area of about 1 cm². Seated in a spiral from the edges to the center. Due to the fact that such straightening leads to a violation of the metal structure, it is used only in extreme cases.
There are videos about each of these types of jobs and they can be easily found on the Internet.First, the wing is removed from the vehicle. Then it is cleaned and the damage is examined. Based on how many defects there are and of what type, methods of restoration work are determined.Straightening the car involves removing the stress of the deformed metal. At the same time, in the process of work, it is necessary to avoid the formation of new areas of compression and tension. Therefore, it is worthwhile to first decide on the straightening technology. It is chosen on the basis of what damage is present on the car parts, and how many there are.Large dents are removed with their own hands with a straightening hammer, transferring light blows gradually from the edges to the middle of the defect. In this case, it is unacceptable to find a counter support, displaced from its center, on the same axis with the hammer. Competent execution of straightening with your own hands will allow you to restore the geometry of the car part and remove deformation stresses. However, this requires skill and experience.Small indentations remaining after the restoration of the car body geometry are smoothed out by spiral straightening using the direct forging method, which involves the use of an aluminum hammer and counter support with flat working surfaces. In these works, the stress is concentrated at the points of interaction of these tools when straightening small depressions. Usually, when leveling a dent, several of these areas are removed. The voltage decreases as the distance between the impact points increases. In the case of their close location, it is worth using the thermal method of stress relief, since in this case, under mechanical stress, the surface may bend. The essence of the work consists in deposition in the middle by straightening a deformed area with a preheated welding torch or a carbon electrode in the center.At high voltages, the heated section of the car is cooled with water for the purpose of compaction, which allows a larger amount of material to be deposited.To remove small car dents with your own hands, use an automatic pulling tool. Its glow plug is welded to the center in 0.3 seconds and the traction is activated by presetting the height. You need to measure how much the depth of the dent is, so as not to drag it into a bulge. The repaired car surface should be cooled. Finally, the electrode is disconnected and its location is leveled. Also, small dents in a car can be aligned with a magnet. The heat method is suitable for repairing dents up to 1 cm in diameter and up to 2 mm deep. This technology consists in shifting the heating source from the edges to the middle of the defect and cooling.On the basis of any of the considered methods, straightening of both the front and rear wings can be carried out. However, how exactly to carry out the work is determined on the basis of how many and which defects are present on the damaged wing.Damage to the car is not always accompanied by deformation of the body - the force of the impact is often taken only by the outer part. Of course, you can pull out the fenders and dents on the car with your own hands without reddening, but how and how to do it. Before you extend the wing (rear or front) to the car, you need to acquire a special tool and familiarize yourself with the rules for performing the procedure.If your car got into a minor accident, as a result of which part of the wing or arch was damaged, then you can pull out the dent using the following methods:

using a jack;

the use of a reverse hammer;

vacuum suction cups;

industrial dryer;

use a spotter.

Practice shows that the best ways to pull out a dent on the wing yourself are such as a reverse hammer and vacuum suction cups.This tool is usually used when damaged machine parts cannot be removed or there is no full access to them. Before stretching the wing arch with this device, you should familiarize yourself with the work algorithm in advance:

Complex cleaning, washing out and drying of the working surface. If there are traces of rust on the fender, remove them immediately.

Attach one end of the hammer to the center point of the indentation. This can be done using the supplied applicator or suction cup. The paintwork will remain intact as the applicator is easily removed during the cleaning process.

Knocking out a dent. Here it is worth making sure in advance of the strength of the connection between the hammer and the wing of the car. Gradually increasing the force of the blow, it is necessary to hit the instrument handle with a weight. The latter is located in the housing shaft and cannot fly out of it.

Checking the condition of the part after several blows.

Disconnecting the hammer from the vehicle fender after completely removing the dent.

Before leveling the fender on a machine without painting with a reverse hammer, remember that it can only be used to remove light and small damage. If you have a complex shape, it is worth welding the hammer in a number of problem areas. In such a situation, it may take longer to complete the work.There are special tools on the market in which there is a specialized hook. It is pushed onto the working end, after which it engages in any hole in the machine. As a result, there is no need to waste time welding the hammer to the vehicle body.If only the fenders are damaged on the bodywork, you can pull them out using the suction cup. The main difference from the hammer is the 100% guarantee of the preservation of the paintwork, since the suction cups do not scratch it, at the same time guaranteeing the strength of the connection.The work execution scheme is as follows:

Prepare the car before pulling out the dent on the fender yourself. You do not need to get rid of any parts as they do not interfere with the installation of the suction cups. The problem area must be thoroughly cleaned and dried. There should be no traces of rust or dirt on the wing surface.

Installing a suction cup on the defective area. The important thing to remember here is that the edge should fit snugly against the metal part. Otherwise, you will not be able to extend the rear fender on the car.

Pumping all air out of the space between the suction cup and the dent. A vacuum must be created inside, which guarantees sufficient adhesion between the tool and the damaged part.

Pulling the suction cup in the desired direction. Usually, craftsmen perform the procedure with their own hands, but in some situations you have to use another car or winch. The unit will pull out the metal on its own, after which the wing surface will become perfectly flat.