Do-it-yourself gas 2410 rear axle repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gas 2410 rear axle repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The 1987 bridge is split. I have no idea what broke in it, tk. it is not strong in faults in the rear axles, but it broke there for a long time (6 years ago, for sure). In general, under load (acceleration, lifting) the bridge is quiet. When driving at a constant speed over 50 km / h (or maybe at a speed below I just don’t hear) or engine braking, or while rolling on neutral, a sound similar to a rustling is heard from the bridge (not a constant hum or howl. How the rear axles howl I know Okay). I was looking in the repair book 2410 for a description of "my" ZM hum, and from the descriptions of the sounds of a faulty bridge suggested by the author of the book (by the way, by the chief designer of GAZ Y. Kudryavtsev), the term "strapping" came to me the most.
In general, this sound does not interfere with my life, however, there was a desire to fix it all the same, tk. a typewriter, which is in almost perfect condition, is useless to emit extraneous sounds into the salon ;-).
Questions:

1) Are these 3Ms generally worth returning for repairs? Or is the repair of the detachable rear axle of the Volga akin to a magical and useless procedure for reanimating an old air conditioner at an old foreign dump? Those. I'll take the money, spend time, and then I'll get even more problems.;
2) If, for example, you buy a stupidly new gearbox assembly, you simply install it in the split rear axle and you do not need to adjust anything (for example, when replacing a Gazelle gearbox, or VAZ-classics), or with such bridges the number does not work, and all sorts of terrible adjustments?

with a howling bridge traveled more than 60 tkm The howl was not removed at the service. After tightening the engagement of the gears, the howl disappeared for 200-300 km, then it gradually returned again.
The repairmen assured that every third bridge howls on the Volga.

Video (click to play).

Say, a trademark feature, like oil flow from the engine through a felt oil seal.

He cured by buying a new one-piece ZM 2410-1029 in UP.
Vladimir, GAZ-24, 1976

What kind of contraption do you need? :-))) Long and bendy)))) 4 blows. burn

GAZ Volga cars are the oldest passenger cars, popular during the Soviet Union and the first years of perestroika. The last Volga car rolled off the assembly line in 2010, halting the development history of this line of middle class cars.

It looks like GAZ Volga 24

However, these "old" cars are still popular with their loyal fans. Some models, in particular the Volga GAZ-24, received the status of exclusive retro cars, and cars from the latest series are still successfully operated by their owners. Therefore, the topic of maintenance and repair of the Volga has not lost its popularity either.

The Volga car belongs to the cars, the repair of which is not always possible to carry out on your own. Therefore, it is advisable to start work only if you have experience and a suitable tool, or turn to professional masters for GAZ "Volga".

Considering the average age of "running" cars, the following can be distinguished among the typical malfunctions:

Failure of body parts.
Wear of rear axle parts.
Deviations in engine operation.

This list is due to both the design features of cars and the operating conditions, including the condition of the roads, the quality of gasoline and the use of anti-ice reagents.

Depending on the specific model and year of manufacture of the car, the list of basic faults, of course, may vary, but the above ones are the most typical.

Unfortunately, most Volga cars manufactured before 2001

originally had a paintwork that practically did not provide protection against corrosive processes, so most cars require body restoration work.

The main details that are most affected by negative environmental factors are:

Doors, mainly the lower part of them.
The bottom, in particular, the sills.
Trunk lid.
The lower parts of the wings.
The front of the hood.
Windshield frame.

It should be noted that updating the Volga's body, however, like any other car, is best done immediately after finding problem areas in order to exclude further spread of corrosion and minimize financial costs.

Body restoration work can be performed in the following ways:

If the process of rust appearance is at the initial stage, then it can be localized by thorough cleaning of problem areas and partial painting with preliminary priming of the surface.
Additionally, it is necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom parts and joints with special means, in particular, "Movil", and cover the lower parts of the doors and fenders with a protective compound, for example, "Antigravel".

In the event that the corrosion processes have gone too far, but have a small area of damage, restoration can be performed by welding repair inserts to the damaged area with painting of the repaired part. Additional protective measures are also advisable.
The cardinal way to repair a body damaged by corrosion is to replace problem parts with new ones. This method is acceptable when the owner plans a long-term further operation.
Often, if you want to save money, used body parts are installed in the process of work, however, such replacements are justified if the dismantled part is in very good condition. Otherwise, the issue of repair will arise again after a short time.

Back to the table of contents

The most vulnerable spot in the Volga's suspension is the rear axle gearbox, which is subjected to significant loads during operation.

Signs of the necessary repair of this unit are the noises appearing in the gearbox when driving. Depending on their nature, you can carry out a preliminary diagnosis of malfunctions. The most common parts requiring replacement are the following:

Axle bearings.
Reducer pinion bearings.
Satellites.

During operation, the fastening nuts of the connection of the parts are loosened, which also causes additional noise and premature wear.

Throw the link plz, otherwise I've been searching for 4 hours, but so far I haven't found anything sensible.

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Since I got behind the wheel, I'm afraid to cross the road.

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GAZ-31029, 1994, M52B28, automatic transmission, chassis 31105, interior 31105, stove 31105, power steering, shock absorbers KYB, tank 31105 with a submersible pump, HBO 4th generation, doors 31105, rear independent Multilink II suspension

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Gas 31105 2006, clutch-Valeo, ammo-KYB, rear independent suspension - Multilink I Volvo 960, gearbox-Ford Scorpio 2.0, wipers drive-Ford Scorpio, dual-mode firmware-M7Sport, HBO 4pok Stag-300plus, air conditioning, GTZ + VUT-MB 210.

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- To live, as they say, is good!
- A good life is even better!!

YES! this is our method! forward to developed socialism!

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RIDES FAST, SERVES LONG - GOOD VOLGA CAR

A stupid question is out of topic - why is the repair of the rear axle in the Chassis section, and not the Transmission?

And a question on the topic - judging by the electronic catalogs, the axle shafts of all bridges (i.e. from 24 to 31029) are the same, there are no pitfalls?

I have a one-piece, there is a collapsible previously worked and another good one from the 24-ki. I'm thinking of using my old one for spare parts, and leaving the 24-kin for the future for rarities.

“The final drive and axle shafts, which directly transmit engine torque to the rear wheels, are housed in the rear axle housing.At the same time, the axle housing serves as an axle for the rear wheels and at the same time connects them to the body using leaf spring suspension. Therefore, the rear axle is not only a power train unit, but also a chassis unit of the vehicle. ”

and about the axle shafts - yes, they are the same. I have repeatedly changed the 2410 axle shafts into a 24 ki continuous axle.

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The world is the way we make it.

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2412; 1988; ZMZ-402; Cylinder head 92.8mm; HBO, PM 31105, ZM-Volvo (3.7) "wheels", 5MKPP (was)
2752 SINGLE; 2007; (cargo-pass, 7 places); ZMZ 405-22, GBO-4.Wi-Fi, GPS
31105; 2004; ZMZ 4062; HBO-4 Wi-Fi. Gps
driving experience

_________________
The further society moves away from the truth, the more it hates those who speak about it.
A monstrous amount of false conjectures is circulating around the world, and the worst thing is that half of them are pure truth.

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All will be ! - but not at once !

zefir3230,
The oil should really be thick there. The Soviet TAD-17i, and most likely there it is, is MS-20, thickened with Cereosin, with the addition of imported additives. Nobody regretted Cereosin, and it will not evaporate, unlike MC20, which, albeit slowly. but nevertheless, in 20 years it is quite capable of evaporating by a third of the volume.

Change to any 80W-90 mineral gear oil. But don't take the TAD-17 brand. For no one officially releases such a brand. It will be enough for you to buy 1 liter, because the volume of the bridge is significantly reduced over time due to the sediment on the walls.

About the leak. if the shank shaft is relatively dry, i.e. there are no drips of fresh oil - then don't take any bad idea, a slight "sweating" is absolutely not scary. I had not only sweat on the killed bridge, but a drop constantly hung, and then, in a year, no more than 50 grams left the bridge. those. an attempt to add oil ended in almost nothing. Therefore, I changed it, because I thought that the problem was in the leaving oil, but it turned out that it was not.

Was the sound before the replacement? Maybe the oil seal somehow got up or flew off?

And if you turn the wheels in place, hang out the rear and turn - is there a sound?

Not for the parking brake but for the parking brake cable, if the rear is pulled up.

Added after 3 minutes 34 seconds

Friends, I had such a feature. We checked both the oil seals and the rear brake. and cables, and fluids, and a self-wheel in the axle shafts and generally changed the bridge. And the direct universal joint (new) was to blame for it.
The topic of changing the bridge was and started because of the shorkonya. They changed the bridge, put my old cardan straight (with a very great effort they pushed it into place), and the sound was repeated. And they understood, then they brought another gimbal with a suspended one (got up without problems) and the sound disappeared. This situation was helped by Pasha (Indigo) and Marat (Marik), who were extremely surprised by this situation. So here is my straight gimbal, which on the strength of the departure of 3 t.km was simply longer for some reason by 0.8-1 cm.
The old bridge was thrown out, because the long universal joint simply squeezed out the filling of the ZM. But about 2 months later, Marat put that elongated one for the experiment. card at 24, and he fit.

Also, according to the recommendations of our Klaus Helicopter, it is necessary to study the ZM.

As far as I understand, at first it was about the GAZ-2410, which was not altered for anything.
In this case, I will share my experience: such shorking is often heard on old split bridges. As I wrote above Igor S 3110, the replacement of parts does not give anything - this is indeed the case in the cases of relatives of 2410 that have not undergone alterations. The reason, apparently, is in the gearbox.
Sometimes this shuffling is barely audible and appears only at times, sometimes it becomes so distinct that the car hums like an old tram. You can drive with such noise indefinitely.
I have never completely disassembled the rear axles, I prefer to simply replace the entire axle - in modern conditions it is much easier, simpler, faster and cheaper. The only problem is where to find a really good bridge that does not buzz: you cannot check it until you put it on the car. Although approximately the wear can be determined by rotating the axle shafts and holding the pinion shaft flange: a small backlash usually indicates a slight wear.
But on the other hand, old split bridges, if they are of course good, have advantages: they are quiet and can be very durable.

So, Maks24, my advice to you: do not waste time and effort replacing axle shafts, oil seals, bearings, rubber, etc. Look at the bottom of the car: if the parking brake cable or its tubes are rubbing, then there will certainly be obvious traces of friction. Take off the brake drums, check if the soldiers holding the pads are dry. If not, change the bridge.

Hello everyone, is the bridge from gas 2410 suitable for the UAZ? And the springs from gas are also suitable?

So there are two bridges on the UAZ. What are you going to do with the front one? The springs on the Volga are wider than those of the UAZ.

Hello everyone, the bridge from Gaz 2410 is suitable for the UAZ.

Why is this needed? Are you aware that the design of the bridges is different and they have less load-carrying capacity than the bridges of the UAZ? Then do not regret then for the broken off axle shafts.

So the author has everything written in his nickname. He wants to put the Volgovskiy rear axle with GP 3.7 and loaded axle shafts on the UAZ with 160 fbels. And only the rear axle. The front will obviously be just a beam. And break everybody in the competition.: D: D: D

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Rear axle adjustment

Adjustment of the rear axle is carried out only when replacing the main gears or when eliminating bearing play. Gears are changed very rarely. To eliminate the “howling” of the bridge caused by small scuffing on the teeth, the gears must be replaced, since adjusting such gears only increases the noise of the bridge.

Fig. 130. Semi-axle bearing remover: 1 - press plunger; 2 - semiaxis; 3 - puller bolt; 4 - axis

Rice, 131. Semiaxis bearing locking ring

Rice. 132, Main gear adjustment diagram: 1 and 10 - differential bearings; 2 and 9 - differential bearing shims; 3 - driven gear; 4 - adjusting ring for setting the drive gear; 5 - adjusting washer for adjusting the preload (tightening) of the bearings of the drive gear; 6 - adjusting gaskets; 7 and 8 - drive gear bearings; 11 - sealing gaskets (two); 12 - dirt reflector

It is not recommended to reduce the lateral meshing clearance. Slight slack in the bearings of the gears should be eliminated by adjusting the preload (you must be careful not to disturb the position of each of the gears).

The preload of the bearings of the drive gear is adjusted by changing the thickness of the pack of gaskets 6 (Fig. 132) so that the required preload is obtained after tightening the nut of the drive gear to failure. To reduce the preload, spacers are added, to increase, they are reduced. As a result of the adjustment, the axial play of the pinion gear must be eliminated. After elimination of the axial play of the bearings, the drive gear should be easily turned by hand.

Nut 17 (see Fig. 122) at the end of the adjustment must be tightened to failure (tightening torque 16-20 kgf m). The nut must not be loosened up to the cotter pin. It only needs to be pulled until the hole for the cotter pin coincides with the slot in the nut. Simultaneously with tightening the nut, it is necessary to turn the drive gear so that there is no skewing of the rollers in the bearing. This instruction must be followed, otherwise the bridge may fail.

To tighten the nut, in addition to the L-shaped spanner wrench, you must have a fork 0.5 m long to hold the flange when tightening the nut and turning the flange (see Fig. 124). When the nut starts to tighten tightly, after every quarter turn made by the wrench, make several quick swinging movements with the fork so that the rollers take the correct position. In case of insufficient tightening of the nut, the shims are destroyed and an axial play of the drive gear appears.

After adjustment, the bearing temperature must be monitored while driving. When driving for 20-30 minutes at a speed of 60-70 km / h, the heating of the crankcase neck should not exceed 95 ° C (water that gets on the neck should not boil).If excessive heat is present, spacers should be added to reduce preload.

When driving for a long time in hot weather at high speeds, the temperature can exceed 100 ° C.

The preload of the differential bearings is adjusted by changing the total thickness of the packs of spacers 2 and 9 (see Fig. 128), which have the same thickness. -. Increasing the overall thickness of both packs increases the preload of bearings 1 and 10. The preload should be 0.18-0.26 mm. After adjusting the bearings, the driven gear should rotate easily by hand without any axial play or lateral motion. The backlash can be checked through the holes in the crankcase plugs or the throat of the pinion with an indicator.

To make adjustments in the following order: pre-dial a package of gaskets 2 and 9 (each with a thickness of 1.3 mm). Read on the rim of the driven gear the deviation from the mounting distance G. If the deviation has a minus sign, then you should transfer from package 9 to package 2 gaskets, the thickness of which is equal to the deviation, and if the sign is plus, then transfer them from package 2 to package 9

assemble the axle halves without the driving gear (there should be two paper spacers 11 in the crankcase connector):

turn the driven gear; if it rotates tightly and there is no axial play, disassemble the bridge connector and add paper spacers to the connector 11

reassemble the bridge and check the axial play. Add shims 11 until a barely perceptible axial play appears (0.01-0.05 mm);

remove all paper strips and measure their total thickness. Calculate the new thickness of bags 2 and 9; To do this, subtract one third of the thickness of the paper liner from the bag thicknesses available on the differential. Collect the corresponding new bags 2 and 9 and add one 0.15 mm thick spacer to each. Put two gaskets in the connector

Adjusting when replacing individual rear axle parts is easier than adjusting a newly assembled axle. If it is necessary to replace the left half-shaft casing without changing bearing 1 (see Fig. 143), then all gaskets should be kept in place. If the thrust end of the inner ring or the ends of the rollers of bearing 1 are badly worn or the inner ring turns, the bearing must be replaced.

Before installing a new casing, select a new shim pack 2. To do this, compare the distance A on the new and old casing. Measurement should be done by loading the washed bearing and turning it with quick movements in both directions so that the rollers are in the correct position. If the new distance A is larger than the old one, then the package of shims should be increased by the same amount. If the new distance A is less than the old one, then decrease it by the same amount. At the factory, such measurements are made on a special indicator device under load and with rotation.

Before assembling the axle, the bearings should be lubricated with hypoid oil.

Rice. 133. Marking of the main gears: A - serial number of a pair of gears; B - deviation of the height of the drive gear head; B - size deviation (see fig. MZ); G - side clearance in a pair

If it is necessary to replace one or both differential bearings without replacing other parts, then measure the distance A and B, as described above. As a last resort, you can replace the bearings without measurements, but carefully check the lateral clearance in the engagement before and after replacement. The gap should change by no more than 0.1 mm and be at least 0.2 mm when measured at the edge of the dirt deflector 12.

Check if the driven gear rotates easily and if there is no play. If on the first drive off the bridge is found to be noisy, remove it from the vehicle immediately and adjust it.

If you need to replace the differential box, keeping the bearings, then before removing the bearing rings, remember the location of the rings and packs of gaskets in order to put them in their original places and on the new box; check the clearances accordingly.

The pinions of the final drive are replaced only by the kit 24-2402020, selected at the factory for noise and contact patch. The same serial number of the pair is marked on the Highlander of the driving gear (Fig. 133) and on the inner end of the driven gear.

When replacing these gears, it is necessary to put the sludge in a mutual position that simultaneously provides the lowest noise, correct side clearance and a satisfactory contact patch.

The inner ring of the large bearing should be pressed from the old drive gear using a special puller (see Fig. 126). If the bearings of the drive gear are suitable for operation, then assemble a new gear with old bearings and adjusting rings, and then check the preload of bearings 7 and 8 (see Fig. 132).

If you have to replace the large bearing 8 or both bearings of the drive gear at the same time as the gears, then by selecting the ring 4, you should adjust the position of the drive gear, as indicated below, and then check and, if necessary, adjust the preload of the bearings of the drive gear.

Replacing the small bearing 7 does not require changing the ring 4, but only checking and adjusting the preload of the bearings of the drive gear.

The driven gear should be installed by comparing the mounting distance markings on the new and old gears. If the markings match and the differential bearings are suitable for operation, then the rings of these bearings and the packs of spacers 2 and 9 under them must be left in place. If the marking does not match, then subtract the old one from the new marking (taking into account the signs). If the result is with a plus sign, shift the package of gaskets 2 of this thickness from the left side of the differential to the right, and with a minus sign - from the right to the left.

If the differential bearings are replaced at the same time as changing gears, the bearing preload should be adjusted as follows before installing the driven gear.

After replacing a pair of gears, check the lateral meshing clearance (Fig. 134). To do this, use the stopper 7820-5089 to securely fix the driven gear through the oil drain hole. Putting the tool 8369-4600 on the flange of the drive gear, determine by the indicator the lateral clearance in the engagement, which should be for new gears within 0.35-0.61 mm of the instrument readings (on the shoulder 60 mm), which corresponds to the clearance in the teeth of 0, 15-0.25 mm.

To check the contact patch, a thin layer of thickly diluted paint (red lead) is applied to several teeth of the driven gear and, in the assembled place, the drive gear is turned several times in both directions (with a small load applied to the brake cables). Disassemble the bridge and inspect the stains on the painted teeth resulting from erasing the paint at the contact points. The size and position of the spot should correspond to Fig. 135.

If the spot does not correspond to the specified one, then the position of the driven or drive gears should be changed by shifting the spacers 2 (see Fig. 132) and 9 or by selecting the ring 4. After that, again check the preload of the bearings of the drive gear, the side play and the contact patch. If only the axle housing is replaced (with the right-hand guard assembly), the differential bearing preload may not be adjusted. If it is necessary to replace the bearings, then replace the packs of gaskets under them, as when replacing the left casing of the axle shaft. When replacing the crankcase, it is imperative to adjust the position of the drive gear and the preload of its bearings.

Rice. 134. Measurement of the lateral clearance in the engagement of the rear axle pair: 1 - stopper 7820-5089: 2 - device for measuring the clearance 8369-4600

Rice. 135. Contact spot of main gears gears: A - forward side; B - reverse side; 1 - the correct location of the contact patch when checking under light load; 2 - the contact patch is shifted to the top of the tooth - to correct it, move the drive gear to the driven one; 3 - the contact patch is shifted to the base of the tooth - for correction Move the drive gear away from the driven one; 4 - the contact patch is too shifted to the narrow end of the tooth - to correct it, move the driven gear away from the driving gear; 5 - the contact patch is shifted to the wide end of the tooth - to correct, move the driven gear to the leading

The position of the drive gear is adjusted as follows. The indicator device measures the distance B (see Fig.132) from the axle of the differential bearings to the end of the large bearing on the new and old crankcases. During the measurement, bearing 8 must be under the maximum possible load. Before measuring, rinse it and turn it several times in both directions. If the new size B is larger than the old one, then the thickness of the ring 4 should be increased by the same amount, and if it is smaller than the old one, it should be reduced.

Next, adjust the preload of the bearings of the drive gear, and then check the position of the gear, measuring the distance E with an indicator device. The deviation of the height of its head is indicated at the end of the drive gear. If the deviation is indicated with a minus sign, then it must be added to the size 65 mm, and if with a plus sign, then subtract 65 mm from the size to get the size E. The permissible deviation of the size E is + 0.02 mm. If dimension E turns out to be larger than the permissible one, then ring 4 should be replaced with a thicker one, and then again check the preload of the bearings of the drive gear and, if necessary, adjust. If the size E is less than the permissible size, change the ring 4 to a thinner one.

The correct adjustment of the preload of the bearings of the final drive can be made by checking the heating of the axle housing on the bench and measuring the torque of the bearings in the axle after running in the bench.

Heating is determined by the back of the hand when the locations of the pinion gear or differential bearings have become hot, and the rest of the crankcase and cover are still slightly hot (at a drive gear speed of about 3000 rpm, approximately 1 minute after starting). If the hand cannot tolerate touching the indicated areas or the bearing locations quickly heat up immediately after starting, the preload on the respective bearings should be reduced. If the bearing points do not become hot for a long time, increase the preload.

The moment of turning the drive gear of the assembled bridge should be within 20-60 kgf cm; it is recommended to swing the flange back and forth before measuring. If the torque is not correct, remove the axle shafts, remove the drive pinion flange and replace it with a measuring flange, which differs from the usual one in that its surface diameter under the oil seals is 39 mm. Tighten the nut, applying a torque of 16 kgf m, not the cotter pin / i. Measure the cranking torque. It should be in the range of 20-35 kgf cm. If the norm is not met, you should disconnect the covers, remove the differential and measure the torque of the drive gear again. It should be within 10-20 kgf cm. If the torque is not correct, - adjust the bearing tension of the drive gear; if normal, - adjust the differential bearing preload. ,

The above applies to new bearings. If bearings that previously worked in the axle are used, then the rates of the maximum turning moment should be halved (for the drive gear without oil seals, the rate is 8-12 kgf cm).

finally a movie! the best channel on YouTube

the puller can be simplified and not weld so much iron. Make it out of two pipes, a nut, a bolt and two plates. Make two transverse cuts in the bottom of the large pipe and insert plates into these cuts after installation on the bearing. for the manufacture of turning work is not required.

Vasily is healthy, help me with advice car gazelle dv 405 406 they are the same about a month ago, about the engine pumped up the pressure, everything was fine, everything was fine, but yesterday, suddenly, antifreeze began to boil out of the expansion barrel, what could be the reason?

I carefully file with a grinder, and then with a thin chisel one blow and the inner ring breaks

Very informative video!

There are few places where you can find such videos for free.

Hello Vasily. Is it worth heating the bearing in water. Water will accelerate its corrosive properties and it will fail faster than desired. This is of course my opinion or I'm wrong. Building hair dryer, much more reliable.

And so in general, thanks for your videos. Watching and enjoying.

Thank you for your videos. I really appreciate your efforts to explain everything. May God grant you good health.

On the last Volga, the bearing is open on one side and there is an oiler for lubrication.

I wanted to ask you, but what if the standard thickness of the drive pinion reg-washer will no longer help? For example, I found out the mounting size, from the differential axis to the end of the pinion gear, but do the teeth wear out over time? That is, the drive gear runs away from the differential. How to be? How to adjust for contact patch. Thanks in advance!

Vasily, the video is very informative and informative. Thank you. Now the question is off-topic: Vasily, please show the puller device for valve seats. I would be very grateful.

Dyakuyu to you. Z New Rock and the Rise of Christ.

As always, everything is clear and accessible. Thank you so much for your channel, I want to quit my job and love cars) I would like more videos about the UAZ)))

Hello Vasily! On my UAZ, the rear axle was howled, disassembled, and there are potholes on the main pair on one side (that is, the contact patch when moving forward). What if this main pair is put in the front axle, then when moving forward, the load will fall on the unweathered side, and will the teeth break off under the load?

Hello! Why not heat the bushing red? Metal release?

Vasily hello. You are a master from God. I watch your videos with pleasure. I have a proposal for you, to make a mini tractor, of course, not for nothing, there are all spare parts such as those on your tractor, if of course you have time.

Happy New Year, Vasya, I congratulate you! I had a little problem, I have a GAZ 66, a knock appeared in the engine at certain speeds. I didn’t start to figure it out right away, I installed another engine, as the worker said, but he was dead. I began to disassemble my engine and it turned out that the connecting rod was knocking in my finger. I put everything on the lawn, but now there is no pressure in the engine, although I didn’t change anything, I removed the oil pump, but I’m not sure whether I put it on or not. How to get out of the situation? Although before that there was pressure, at idle and at hot - one, at revs - 2.8. What can you think of? Thanks in advance!

Everything is very explained and thanks, we will wait for new devices ..

It is felt that you are a mentally kind person. Thank you for your videos!

Happy holidays. Good day. I have a question, can you buy a used UAZ fist, if so, how can I contact you?

Basil you are just super it's true

Good day! When repairing both gearboxes and gearboxes, I heat the bearings on an ordinary incandescent light bulb. In a vice or just put a tube or something like that so that the light does not fall, we put bearings or a bushing on it, for example, from the checkpoint of a foreign car and wait for 10-15 minutes. With foreign cars, this method is ideal, since all the tolerances are observed and after heating on the light bulb and the bearings and bushings are set in place simply by hand, well, you can tap with a little lead hammer for complacency.

Good day, Vasil. Once again, I wondered about your video and came misly. Would you like to change a ball bearing to a roller one? Mozhliviy such a variant? Dilo in the fact that I do not need the entire semi-axle, but 12 cm of all the drive and weld on the flat pipe, so the trailer is built. The stocking itself is superfluous there and it will not be beautiful on the axle of the trailer. Another option is to put one more bearing through the washer. What is more beautiful on your dummy?

Good evening, Vasily! The problem is that I got a UAZ-452 with repressed bridges for Volgov gearboxes. The main pair and the differential box must be replaced. The differential box from 24 is not a problem, I got a new USSR one. But stood in the bridges of the GP from the 21st 9/41 (4.55). I did not manage to get a new pair of 9/41, but there is a new one, from THOSE times, a pair of 10/41 from 24. And there is a new pinion gear (shank) 9 teeth from the 21st. Is it possible to adjust the non-paired gears of the GPU, and if not, how can this end, besides the noisy operation of the GPU?

Hello Vasily! Please tell me if it is possible to replace the main pair with gas-2410 gear ratio 3.9. It was worn out on my mini-tractor, but in Belarus, I can't find my own anywhere. I would be very grateful if you can help with advice.

Vasily, the catalog numbers of the GAZ-20 and GAZ-24 differential boxes are different. What is the difference?

Good afternoon, I need your help, please help me to get out with the bridge, leave a link to the text and photo

A differential that is supposedly with the M20, not with the M20 🙂 At Pobeda it is similar to the UAZ one, i.e. collapsible on bolts, and the axle shafts are assembled immediately, inserted from the inside into each half.

Good day to gas 21, also regulate the driven and leading

1. If you buy many spare parts , try to combine them as much as possible in one topic and list them in the title - as much as you can. Topics with an uninformative title "Buy", "Buy spare parts", "Buy for GAZ" and similar - will be deleted .

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The car is equipped with a mechanical three-way four-speed gearbox. The gearbox provides: obtaining various tractive forces on the driving wheels by changing the torque transmitted from the engine to the cardan transmission; the ability to move the car in reverse; the ability to disconnect the engine for a long time from the power train of the car. The structure and operation of the gearbox. The gearbox is made according to a two-shaft scheme.

The gearbox housing 44 is attached to the clutch housing with six pins. On the right side of the gearbox housing there is a hole (closed with a tapered screw plug) for filling and checking the oil level in the gearbox; the same hole with a plug is located in the lower part of the crankcase (serves to drain the oil). The input shaft 1 rotates in two ball bearings; the front is located in the socket of the rear journal of the crankshaft of the engine, the rear 5 in the wall of the gearbox housing. In the front of the input shaft there are splines, by means of which the input shaft is connected to the hub of the clutch disc. A helical gear is made in one piece with the rear part of the input shaft, which is permanently connected to the gear on the intermediate shaft, as well as a spur gear and a synchronizer cone. The cover 2 of the input shaft bearing is centered on the outer ring and screwed to the front end of the gearbox housing with four bolts. On its outer shoulder, the gearshift is centered with the clutch housing. The intermediate shaft 40 rotates on three rows of needle bearings 39.

The axial clearances of the second gear gear 0.15-0.35 mm and the intermediate shaft 0.05-0.31 mm are structurally provided within the specified limits and do not require adjustments. The needles of the roller bearings of the intermediate shaft and the front end of the secondary shaft are installed with a different dimension of not more than 0.005 mm. Engagement clutches are selected with hubs in a set, providing a lateral clearance in the splines of 0.01-0.05 mm and easy axial movement of parts. Maintenance of the gearbox. During operation, it is necessary to tighten the fastening of the gearbox to the clutch housing and the extension to the gearbox as necessary, as well as to clean the breather.As necessary (the appearance of a creak or difficult movement of the gear lever), lubricate the ball joint of the lever, the lower end and the spherical washer with a thin layer of grease 1-13 (GOST 1631615 or other grease).

Video (click to play).

After 12-12.5 thousand km of run, it is necessary to check the lubricant level in the gearbox. The normal level should be at the bottom edge of the oil filler hole. After 24-25 thousand km of run, change the oil in the gearbox. To lubricate the gearbox, transmission oil TAP-15V (138101176-71) or TAD TV 38-101306-72) is used. Oil substitute 'Tsp-14 * RTU 38-1G-3-68).

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