In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Mazda 3 rear caliper from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The article will discuss how the brake caliper works and how to perform caliper repair do it yourself at home.
When the driver presses the brake pedal, the pads are pressed against the discs and thus the car stops. But unfortunately, they have not yet come up with mechanisms that could retract the brake pads to their original position. They just stop pressing tightly against the discs. Often, after long-term operation, the brake mechanism acquires some malfunctions, which significantly affects the rapid or uneven wear of brake pads and discs, increased noise and an unpleasant odor. The pads overheat and lose their grip at the same time. In short, the vehicle's braking system becomes ineffective.
In fact, there are not so many reasons why such malfunctions are possible. These are either damaged guides along which the caliper moves, or dirt on the working surface that interferes with the free movement of the pads.
Well, or the caliper itself. The last option will be discussed in this material:
-Small amendment: there is still a part in the caliper that contributes to the return movement of the piston after the loss of pressure - this is the cuff. On the one hand, it provides tightness, on the other, it is a kind of spring. Square in cross-section, when the piston moves, it deforms, and then tends to take the form of rest, along the way slightly recessed the piston into the body.
Over time, the elasticity of the cuff is lost, the pads remain pressed against the discs, increased friction, overheating and all other delights. This is not always obvious. How can you troubleshoot?
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Video (click to play). |
First of all, the suspended wheel should spin freely, even immediately after pressing and releasing the brake pedal.
Brake discs must not show signs of overheating
outer and inner pads should not have a difference in thickness
brake caliper piston should be easily recessed into the housing.
If there is cause for concern, we start looking for a problem. Most often it occurs due to a damaged anther.
but even if outwardly intact, look under it
the piston surface must be perfectly flat, without any traces of rust or dirt.
VAG provides a repair kit consisting of rubber bands, there are also a bunch of analogues from third-party manufacturers
but there is no piston on sale. However, this is not a problem at all, you can safely use non-original pistons available on the free sale for cars of previous generations.
And now about the repair procedure itself:
-jump the car and unscrew the wheel, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position
-remove the retaining spring
- thoroughly clean the surface near the brake hose mount
- rinse with some kind of cleaner, blow with air
-in order not to lose the brake fluid level, we pinch the brake hose
- unscrew the hollow bolt securing the hose,
- so that the dirt does not get inside, and the liquid does not flood everything around, put a simple bolt with a thread 10 * 1.5 into the hole
-remove the protective caps on the guides
-Unscrew the guides with a 7 mm hexagon.
-it is necessary to slightly drown the piston, for that, using a thick screwdriver, we move the body away from the disk
-remove the caliper, helping ourselves with a screwdriver (screwdrivers)
- one block can remain in the bracket, one is fixed with a spring to the caliper
—stopping support in hand. Remove the cover with a flat screwdriver
- miracles, but even with external well-being, moisture could be inside
-the piston can be removed from the body in three ways:
- without still disconnecting the caliper from the hose, remove it from the disc, and press the brake pedal until the piston falls out. And immediately pinch the hose.
- to squeeze the body in a vice, and pull the piston with large "crocodiles", simultaneously making circular movements
- but the easiest way is to remove it with air. However, do not forget to provide support for the safety of your own body parts.
- having drained the remaining brake fluid, remove the old cuff
- it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seating surface of the protective cover
-and also grooves for the cuff
-Before reassembly, it is necessary to flush again (ELSA recommends alcohol, but not inside) and blow with air.
- with clean (!) hands we put a new cuff
-Slightly lubricate it with fresh brake fluid
-a bit t. spill on the piston surface (the same ELSA provides a special paste for this)
- we put the piston in the body strictly vertically, and slightly shaking it, with the effort of our fingers, we press it
-Drowning almost to the middle, put on a protective cover
- making sure that the elastic is not jammed anywhere, press the cover onto the case. A wire ring is welded into it, a special mandrel is provided for an even fit by VAG
-but you can do without it, the main thing is uniform effort
- drown the piston completely, and then push it out with the help of air, and make sure that the boot is flat, not twisted or torn anywhere
- re-sink the piston completely, and you can start assembling. However, since we have come to the repair and maintenance of brakes, everything must be done correctly. So - we unscrew the caliper brackets
-and thoroughly clean all surfaces on which the pads move
-make sure that the thread into which the guides are screwed is not damaged
* weak point on VW of the latest generation. Often, when unscrewing the guide, dirt and rust formed on the protruding part pull out the threads behind them.
-screw the bracket into place (before reuse, clean the bolts and tighten them with a torque of 190Nm ),
put the block on and make sure that it does not get stuck anywhere
-clean the guides from dirt. If there are traces of rust, it is better to replace them altogether.
-insert the inner block into the piston with a spring, put the caliper on the bracket, bait the guides with your fingers (!)
be sure to make sure that the bolt goes along the thread, and only then tighten (30 Nm)
-we put on the caps, so as not to forget later, insert the spring
-the brake hose is attached to brake caliper hollow bolt, and sealed with two rings.
- we can safely call them disposable.
And they are removed only with the help of a tool
-but at the same time it is not possible to find them in ETKA as a separate part. You can safely put rings from a similar assembly used in domestic cars. Unless, before installing, slightly move back and forth on a fine skin
- Before assembly, blow out the fitting
-and clean the mating plane on the hose
-Unscrew the bleed fitting and release the brake hose
- usually, after such work, there is no need to pump the circuit, it is enough to wait until the liquid flows from the fitting, evenly and without bubbles
-for ecology lovers, you can hang a bottle and control the air through a transparent hose
- tighten the shooter (30Nm), get behind the wheel and reduce the pads with a few strokes of the pedal.
-wash off the remaining brake fluid and others and traces of activity
- especially pay attention to the CV joint boot, ball joint and steering tip covers
If these are not observed, we fasten the wheel, lower the jack. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top up if necessary.
Make a test drive. If the pedal fails when pressed for the first time, and after a couple of strokes it becomes higher, repeat the procedure for removing air.
There is also a possibility that due to the different elasticity of the cuffs in the old and worn caliper there will be a difference in the speed of the brakes. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out the bulkhead on both sides at once.
Well, now you can rejoice in the serviceable brakes.
Thus, now you have learned how to execute repair of front and rear brake caliper
Next, take the cylinder and take the anther. Lubricate the cylinder and put the boot on the cylinder. Look at the photo on which side you need to put the boot on the cylinder!
After putting on the boot, pull it to the opposite edge of the cylinder so that part of the boot protrudes beyond the cylinder.
Now we take the resulting “construction” in our hands and insert the protruding part of the boot into the caliper.
After tucking the boot into the grooves of the caliper, push the cylinder inward until it stops. Now the cylinder rested against the O-ring and force is needed to push it further.
! If the gum and cylinder are poorly lubricated, then you will hardly succeed and there is a chance to break the sealing gum. So I got the first repair kit!
I did not have the strength to push the cylinder into the cylinder with my hands, and I used a device for distributing the brake cylinders.
The main thing is that the cylinder should enter without distortions. And if he does not want to climb at all, then it is better to pull him out and try again. I did it the third time. It took a little effort and after a moment the cylinder passed the rubber O-ring with little persistence.
We put the anthers on the caliper guides and install the caliper in the reverse order. Don't forget to lubricate all moving and twisting parts!
D4648 (SEINSA AUTOFREN) CALIPER REPAIR KIT one side.
GA5R33691 (MAZDA) BRAKE BLEEDING UNIT
PS: the article itself is located here, go in and click "like", who is not difficult =)
Evgen13rus 29 Aug 2016
I ask for advice from experts and everyone who has come across the repair of front calipers on the Mazda 3 2.0 2008. After replacing the brake discs and linings, the front left caliper began to wedge. Calipers fingered both, changed the rubber bands, flushed the pistons. Just on the left one there were minor bad-ass marks, it seems that it didn’t help. What are the options to fix this problem? Can anyone tell me the articles of analogs of pistons? Should I put pistons from gas 3110?
Post has been edited by vasnet: 29 August 2016 - 23:41
Evgen13rus 29 Aug 2016
ops .. there is also Russian)
- Like
- I do not like
1. I advise you to take the “analogue” of ATE, it is this manufacturer's system that the brakes are on our car, i.e. original from the factory. if it wedges, then you need to take not only the piston, but also its anther + oil seal, I also advise you to look at the condition of the fingers,
2. no need to lubricate your fingers. we have some kind of "dry" Teflon spraying on our fingers, well, if you take your fingers, then take anthers and corks to them as a set.
3. But in general I advise you to look at it, a lot of living things and not expensive can be bought directly assembled, put, pumped and forgotten for a long time.
Post has been editedpl84: 30 August 2016 - 09:17
Evgen13rus 30 Aug 2016
1. I advise you to take the “analogue” of ATE, it is this manufacturer's system that the brakes are on our car, i.e. original from the factory. if it wedges, then you need to take not only the piston, but also its anther + oil seal, I also advise you to look at the condition of the fingers,
2. no need to lubricate your fingers. we have some kind of "dry" Teflon spraying on our fingers, well, if you take your fingers, then take anthers and corks to them as a set.
3. But in general I advise you to look at it, a lot of living things and not expensive can be bought directly assembled, put, pumped and forgotten for a long time.
Thanks for the information! I will order according to the above-mentioned articles. I would gladly look at it, only in RM it’s a little tough with this, and I don’t want to watch a pig in a poke. =)
Evgen13rus 03 Sep 2016
The pistons came, they fit perfectly both in diameter and in height. I also ordered guides and anthers. I changed everything, BUT the problem remained.
When the brake system heats up, both calipers wedge. Where to dig next? Going through the GTZ?
- Like
- I do not like
fingers looked? no scuffs? bushings are alive?
Evgen13rus 04 Sep 2016
fingers looked? no scuffs? bushings are alive?
The front calipers were completely sorted out, pistons, fingers, rubber bands. the brake is also replaced ..
The pistons came, they fit perfectly both in diameter and in height. I also ordered guides and anthers. I changed everything, BUT the problem remained.
When the brake system heats up, both calipers wedge. Where to dig next? Going through the GTZ?
if you are 100 percent confident in the calipers,
then you should probably pay attention to the abs block
that is, the problem is that the pressure is not released
Post has been editedvasnet: 04 September 2016 - 18:20
Mazda 3 Axela. FRONT BRAKE CALIPER - REMOVAL, REPAIR AND INSTALLATION
The need to perform this operation should be determined when checking the technical condition of the brake system (p. 87, “Brake system - checking the technical condition *).
Withdrawal
1. Preparing the car for the job. We install stops under the rear wheels and hang the front of the car (p. 73, “Preparing the car for maintenance and repair *).
2. Remove the wheel (p. 38, “Wheel - replacement *).
3. Hold the hose from turning with a 14 mm wrench. with a second 13 mm wrench, unscrew the bolt-fitting securing the brake hose tip.
4. Remove the plugs and use a 7 mm hex wrench to unscrew the guide pins of the caliper.
5. Disconnect the pad retaining spring, remove the caliper and disconnect the inner brake pad from the brake cylinder piston (p. 273, "Front brake pads - replacement").
All rubber caliper seals are supplied in a repair kit and can be replaced during disassembly and inspection of this unit.
1. Drain the remaining brake fluid from the caliper.
2. With a special brake cleaner (p. 70, "Operating and repair materials *), we clean the caliper body and boot from dirt and rust to prevent them from getting on the piston and cylinder mirror during disassembly.
Be careful when performing the following operation, the piston may “shoot”. In order to avoid damage to the piston and injury, we put a rag or a wooden block between the piston body and the bracket.
3. Apply a small pressure of compressed air to the brake fluid supply hole and push the piston out.
4. Pry the piston boot with a slotted screwdriver.
8. With a special brake cleaner (p. 70, "Operating and repair materials"), we clean the piston and cylinder from the remaining brake fluid and dirt.
9. Replace the removed boot and cuff, inspect the surfaces of the piston and cylinder. In case of wear, scratches or corrosion, we replace the parts.
10. Before assembly, we lubricate the parts with clean brake fluid.
11. Install the parts in reverse order. When installing the boot, carefully so as not to break it, fill it into the groove of the caliper with a slotted screwdriver.
The sleeves must be cracked or broken, and the finger surfaces must be absolutely smooth. Otherwise, the damaged elements must be replaced.
1. Install the caliper in reverse order. replacing the O-ring of the brake hose with a new one.
2. Remove air from the brake hydraulic drive system (p. 271, “Hydraulic brake drive - bleeding *) and make sure that the connection between the hose tip and the caliper is tight.
Removal, repair and installation of disc brake calipers
Remember that the dust generated during the operation of the brakes may contain asbestos, which is extremely harmful to human health. Never blow off dust with compressed air or inhale it; when servicing mechanisms, wear a protective mask or respirator. Never use gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to wipe the brake system components, use only proprietary cleaning agents or methyl alcohol!
2.When removing the rear disc brake caliper, remove the cotter pin and disconnect the parking brake cable from the operating lever (see accompanying illustration).
3. Disconnect the hydraulic line from the caliper, in order to minimize the loss of brake fluid, and also, to prevent dirt from getting inside the path, plug the union connection (see the accompanying illustration).
Front brake caliper
Akebono caliper
1 - Lower caliper bolt
2 - the Upper caliper bolt
3 - Caliper body (caliper)
4 - Protective covers
5 - the Bushing
6 - Protective cover
7 - the Bushing
8 - Adjusting pad of a block
9 - the Outer block
10 - Inner block (with wear indicator)
11 - Spring holders of pads
12 - the Retaining ring for fixing the anther of the piston
13 - the boot of the piston
14 - the Piston
15 - the Cuff of the piston
16 - the Pumping valve
17 - Anchor bracket
Nissin caliper
1 - Caliper Bolts
2 - Caliper body
3 - Protective cover
4 - the Adjusting lining of the outer block
5 - the outer block
6 - Inner block (with wear indicator)
7 - Internal lining
8 - the Adjusting lining of the inner block
9 - Spring holders of pads
10 - the spring of a block
11 - the boot of the piston
12 - the Piston
13 - the Cuff of the piston
14 - the Pumping valve
15 - Anchor bracket
1. Design options for disc brake calipers are shown in the accompanying illustrations above.
2. Place the caliper on a clean workbench. If the caliper has spring pad retainers, note their location on the assembly, then remove. If the piston boot is fixed with a snap ring, remove it by prying it off with a screwdriver.
3. Remove the boot.
4. Before removing the piston, place a block of wood between it and the caliper wall (to protect the piston). The piston is pushed out by supplying compressed air to the brake hose connection. The air pressure should be as low as possible.
Take care not to get your fingers between the piston and the caliper!
10. Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid, carefully push it through a new boot and fill it into the caliper cylinder (the piston should enter the cylinder with little resistance). Make sure the boot fits into the groove on the piston (see accompanying illustration).
Rear brake caliper
To disassemble the rear wheel brake calipers, special tools are required, therefore, it would be reasonable to entrust the repair of them to car service specialists.
In general, the brake system includes: a cylinder, a hydraulic booster, disc front (sometimes rear) brakes, drum rear. All components of the system can be conditionally divided into a brake mechanism (executive part) and a drive (a part that transfers the leg force when the brake pedal is pressed).
The role of each element in the system is strictly defined. The driver depresses the brake pedal. The brake booster, increasing the pressure, through the brake force distributor, transfers it to the cylinder of each wheel.
The brake master cylinder increases the fluid pressure in the brake line system. Through these, the pressure is transmitted to the brake caliper. Filling the cylinder of the mechanism, fluid pressure begins to push out the piston, which presses the disc with the pads.
The caliper is an important element of the front brakes. It connects the pad and brake disc when the brake pedal is depressed. When the brake pedal is depressed, the pads, due to the frictional force, lock the disc. Which, in turn, through the hub, stops the wheel and the whole machine in general.
Unfortunately, there is no mechanism to reverse the pads after the connection has occurred. The main work on braking is carried out precisely by the brake caliper, which presses the pads and the disc together. In this process, the disc and pads are passive participants.
By design, there are two types of calipers: rigid (fixed) and floating.
The fixed type brake caliper was fixed to the steering knuckle. Fixed type pistons were located one on each side of the disc. Each piston pressed on the block from its side.
The mechanism of a fixed caliper, due to the large number of parts, is more expensive than a floating one. The brake pads of a rigidly fixed caliper can slip when the unpaired retainer is removed. When replacing the shoe, the brake mechanism does not need to be removed. When braking, the pads abut their ends against the support surface of the bracket.
The floating brake caliper is simple enough. Usually it is equipped with one piston (some car models have two pistons). The floating mechanism is attached to the steering knuckle with a holder.
Sometimes the pad located inside is attached directly to the brake caliper holder. This mechanism is mounted in the holder so that it can slide to the side relative to the direction of rotation of the disc or steering knuckle.
Throughout the history of the automotive industry, several models of floating calipers have been produced. Early Soviet-made models were called sliding, or mechanically guided.
This type had a housing fitted between V-shaped grooves or grooves in the holder. These grooves markedly limited the movement of the bracket to the sides. The sliding brake caliper wedges more strongly between the body and the carrier and thus causes the brake to seize even in the case of well-lubricated V-grooves.
Any parts involved in this process are exposed to mechanical stress and wear out. Despite the continued functionality, existing faults negatively affect the rest of the components.
Front caliper faults result in uneven wear on the disc and pads. Sudden braking in this case causes the appearance of an unpleasant squeak and odor. Due to the reduction in the area of adhesion, pad and brake disc area, the pads are subject to rapid, pronounced overheating, as a result of which the adhesion is significantly reduced.
There are three main reasons for this failure. The most common and easily eliminated is contamination of the working parts of the pad. It disrupts their normal movement.
The next reason is the damaged brake caliper guides, on which it moves along the working surfaces.
The third most frequent reason is wear, breakage of the caliper itself. A working brake caliper is a prerequisite for the correct functioning of the entire system and effective braking.
To keep Mazda calipers in good condition, periodic maintenance is required. In general, the repair of calipers and maintenance consists of disassembly, cleaning, lubrication with special grease, subsequent assembly and installation.
If damage is found, the calipers must be repaired. At the same time, it is necessary to check the integrity of the rubber seals, since most faults lead to their damage.
The choice of lubricant used for servicing is a determining factor in how long the brake caliper will work. Conventional grease becomes too liquid and flows out, since the bracket during its operation heats up pronouncedly.
When servicing the brake mechanism, it is recommended to use a specialized lubricant; almost every caliper repair kit contains a lubricant of the required quality.
When the calipers are repaired and servicing, they solve the following tasks: disassembly, cleaning from the remaining old grease, lubricating with special fresh grease, checking the integrity of the rubber seals and replacing them if damage is found, assembling everything in the reverse order.
The entire mechanism is behind the wheel. Therefore, we loosen the nuts securing the front wheel, raise the front of the car, fix it on the stands and remove the front wheel. Then he turns the steering wheel to the maximum in the direction to be repaired.
To change the brake pads of the front caliper, unscrew the lower bolt with which it is attached to the caliper and fold the body up. Remove the worn out pads, remembering their position. Install new ones in their place, observing the position.
1.the first step was discussed above - unscrew the lower bolt securing the caliper body to the bracket, and fold the body up, remove the brake pads from their seats;
2. Unscrew the upper mounting bolt and hang it on a string or wire on the suspension element. Do not disconnect the brake hose at the same time;
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the bracket to the knuckle, and remove the bracket along with the pad retainers and guides.
There are several ways to remove the piston from the caliper body.
When you press the brake pedal several times, the piston under pressure is removed by itself, and the brake fluid will flow. Therefore, pinch the hose quickly. This method is most effective when compressed air is not available.
According to the instructions, blow out the piston with compressed air. Be careful not to be injured by the ejected piston.
Disconnect the brake line and plug it to maintain the fluid level in the reservoir.
Let's go directly to the analysis of the caliper and bracket. To disassemble the body, it remains to remove the steel O-ring and the piston boot. To prevent damage to the cylinder bore, remove the ring with a non-metallic tool.
When parsing the brackets, we remember the position of the brake pad retainers, remove them, remove the guides and their anthers, check the safety of the thread.
Using cleaning fluids, gently polish the components of the caliper to a shine. We inspect the condition of the surface of the brake cylinder and piston for scratches and scoring.
It is more correct to have a complete caliper repair kit for each mechanism before starting assembly.
We turn to the assembly of the front disc brakes Mazda.
Place some brake fluid on the O-ring and install it in the lower groove. Make sure that the ring does not twist.
Install the piston boot into the upper groove of the cylinder and secure it with a retaining ring. The new boot also contains a caliper repair kit.
Install the previously washed brake piston of the cylinder, overcoming slight resistance, into the caliper cylinder. The boot must be exactly in the groove on the piston.
Install the anthers on the bracket. It is better to replace the guides with traces of rust with new ones. Cleaned pads should fit without getting stuck. Install the inner block with the spring in the stop with the piston. Then put on the caliper and guides.
Install the spring and put on the caps. Return the brake line to the caliper and screw it onto a full bolt with a seal.
Blow out the fitting and clean the hose connection. The brake fluid should come out of the hose without air. We tighten the union and pump the brake pedal. For uniform braking, it is advisable to replace all wheels.
The result of the work will be clearer and more informative brake response.
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In this article we will show a video about repairing and removing a brake disc and caliper in Mazda 3. If they are broken or you just need to replace them, then our video tip will definitely come in handy. What difficulties await when replacing them?
If you decide to replace the brake disc and caliper in a MAZDA 3 car with your own hands, then it is better to do everything in the following sequence:
- To get to the brake disc and change it, you first need to remove the caliper.
- Everything is quite simple, watch the video carefully.
In order to understand more clearly all the stages of the repair, watch our video instruction - to independently remove the brake disc and caliper in the Mazda 3.
- City: Russia
- Interests: Jurisprudence
- Car: Mazda 3 MPS
- City: Ukhta
- Machine: M3 2.0 Hb * 003 * 11
After several strong brakes, the brake calipers do not completely go away, which is why there is a creak when starting off. The brake fluid has already been changed did not help. Has anyone had this problem?
Have you changed them for a long time .. Brake pads?
If there is already a rattle and a creak, then there are no more pads.
Pistons forever crawl out like on our classics cannot .. so they jammed ..
Recently changed the rear. So after removing the pistons with a hammer, I had to hammer back.
Done =))) Although they worked well and held the handbrake.
Only now, after replacing with new pads, it became somehow softer in the car to drive .. I do not know why this is due to the pads. Maybe they also slowed down the wheels while driving and on bumps the wheels behaved heavier or something.
But the consumption decreased by 1 liter per 100 km. It made me happy =)
- City: Moscow time
- Machine: saab 93 SS
And in general, brakes can be singed! Although if the factory, then I doubt it.
Post has been editedsasha_59: 04 July 2008 - 20:56
It is necessary to monitor the brake pads, check their condition, especially after the vehicle has covered a distance of 10 thousand km.
Consumables: Rear brake pads (13.0460-7195.2)
Required Tools: 7 "Allen Key
- Remove the rear wheel and then use a screwdriver to remove the bracket.
- Remove the rear caps from the guide.
- Then unscrew the lower guide in turn, and then the upper one.
- Remove the brake caliper.
- Take out the old brake pads and sink the piston. It is recommended to open the reservoir with the brake fluid in it.
- Put on the prepared brake pads.
- Insert the caliper where it was before and screw on the rails.
The procedure for removing and changing Mazda 3 pads usually does not take longer than 40 minutes. Often after that, all the noise disappears, and the problems with the rear brakes disappear.
Replacing the rear pads of the Mazda 3 is needed if the car's mileage has exceeded 100 thousand km. Replacement time is approximately one hour. We prepare the necessary replacement tool:
- Hexagon set.
- Jack (if there is no lift).
- Pliers.
- Original brake pads.
- Lubrication.
Step 1 Initially, we purchase original brake pads or a high-quality budget analogue.
Step 2 We go to the salon of the car and disassemble the trim at the handbrake. We pull it up and unfold the plastic to the right, lower it to the opposite position. There we find the parking brake nut, which is well tightened. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew it to the maximum. This procedure will greatly simplify the replacement of pads.
Step 3 Now we turn to the hood, open it and unscrew several bolts securing the brake capacity. We carry out this action to assemble the piston in the reverse order.
Step 4 Raise the rear wheel with a jack, loosen the fastening nuts and dismantle it.
Step 5 We see further brakes that need to be unscrewed. Take a flat screwdriver and insert it between the brackets.Then, with the same screwdriver, remove the plugs from the back side.
Step 6 With a hex wrench, unscrew the nuts that secure the caliper, as a rule, counterclockwise. After unscrewing them, we pry the caliper with a regular screwdriver and dismantle it.
Step 7 We see the deplorable state of the old pads. The inner component part wears out much less frequently.
Step 8 Install the caliper and notice that the piston does not come out completely. It should be driven inside. We use pliers as a tool.
Step 9 On the caliper, we notice two rounded holes in which we wedge the pliers. We lead in the direction of the disk. We take the tool and install the piston into the groove, immediately pressing and twisting. You don't need to drive it in. Just rotate slowly and don't press hard.
Step 10 After completing this process, insert the new pads in the reverse order and install the caliper. Using a lubricating fluid, apply a thin layer to the bolts.
Step 11 Install the plastic plugs in reverse order. See how they are facing the piston.
Step 12 After replacing everything you need, we tighten the brake fluid cap, go to the car, tighten the bolts, first setting the handbrake a few clicks. Since the pistons were removed, we press the brake pedal a couple of times.
Step 13 We start the car and carry out a test drive. Initially, a strange sound will be heard, but do not worry, this is the sound of rubbing in new pads, which will evaporate after tens of kilometers
We have completed the process of replacing the rear pads on the Mazda 3.
Replacing brake pads Mazda Mazda 3
If your car has a metallic squeak from the rear wheels when braking, then it is worth replacing the pads. These components need to be replaced every 30-40 thousand km. depending on driving style. In this manual, we will show you how to properly remove and replace the rear brake pads on your Mazda 3 with your own hands.
You will need: new rear brake pads, 7 "hex wrench, flat head screwdriver, jack or lift.
We jack the car, remove the wheel and remove the bracket with a screwdriver.
Next, you need to remove the caps from the back of the caliper.
Unscrew the top guide.
Unscrew the bottom guide.
The released brake caliper can now be removed.
We open the caliper and take out the old pads, press the brake piston.
Installing new rear brake pads on Mazda 3.
Close the caliper and install in the reverse order, repeat the steps on the second wheel. Change the pads in pairs.
Mazda 3 Rear Brake Pad Replacement Video
