Do-it-yourself repair of the rear beam on Samanda

Car of 2006 release. I own this car for a little over a year. I had no idea what a torsion bar suspension was before. This is my first repair of this type of suspension.
The main shooting took place on a Panasonic HC-V770 camera, some moments of the video were filmed on a budget Elephone EleCam Explorer Elite 4K action camera. If anyone is interested, I bought it here: goo.gl/5xJHD7
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I do not tell you how to do it, I tell you how I did it.

Thanks for the advice really grateful!

Check in my opinion is impossible. If only for some symptoms: the car starts to float on the road, a creak from behind, the rear practically does not damp.

Understood thanks ! And how to understand whether the previous owner changed how can this be determined without disassembly?

The odometer was 170 thousand, I was not buying a new one, whether the bearings changed before me is not clear. Bearings need to be changed every 70 thous.

And for what mileage did you go so far?

I bought a used beam in good condition. Please tell me in what places it will be drilled under the grease fittings. Thanks in advance

at the junction of the sleeve with the bearing, so that the lubrication passes without problems, 10:05 in the video

Well done! Cool fine tuning of the car

Thank you so much for the information, everything is intelligible.

Can I post your video on the Vkontakte website, in the group of owners of this car brand?

SvyatoGor, thanks! Here you are:

Throw off a link to the group if it's not difficult

In my opinion, the coolest video can not be found. Super!

damn once I wanted to buy. it’s good that I didn’t take it!

Guys, please tell me where to get the oil seals 50 * 65 * 8; the whole city climbed, there are no such, from which it is at least a car and what to put on.

By the way, please tell me about the consumption of benzyl.

It should be on the intake manifold, I have a car in another city now, so I don't remember exactly. In any case, you need to go to the diagnosis, you need to identify the sore and then treat it.

air sensor where. in a choke with a red round?

diagnostics, candles, wires, air sensor, also depends on the mileage, but 10kA on the highway is a bit too much. Unless, of course, the ride is minus 40. There are many reasons, but I would start with diagnostics.

my mustang eats more than 10 infection and even on the highway at 100-110 km high frequency you will not tell me what you can pay attention to ?? I am not satisfied with such a flow!

With my style of driving, 10 in the city is easy in the summer, the engine is clearly not enough for him (8-valve). On the highway 7-7.5 at a speed of no more than 120. If you do not press hard on the trigger, I think the indicators can be reduced.

Krasava, I said everything right !! I could not find the type who will take on the torsion beam, or rather, for its repair! Idiot had to buy fingers on both sides !!

put coprolon bushings right on the knotted fingers, the wheels are level, only the rear has become stiff

As soon as they become soft, you will change again.

But now there will be no special problems with the rear suspension, only during tovot

I solved the problem in an easier way, I also had the needle bearings rubbed, my fingers tingled and the beam inside. And the main problem there is the oil seal. No matter how you smear it on it, and your finger flows directly into the gap with water from the wheels and grains of dirt, the metal in this place corrodes and turns into sandpaper and any further tears apart the oil seal and then the corrosion of the fingers and the bearings.And this happens very quickly, especially if you drive on salty roads. I just had a metal pipe lying near the garage. I took out of it with a grinder and cut the bushings. then he pressed the bushings into the beam and cut the grease fittings. Well, he pushed new seals for decency. It turned out that old knotted fingers have pores and the lubricant fits into them perfectly. I poured nigrol into the beam. It turned out just like in a swing. Fingers there at high revs do not go in any way. No bearings no problem. I have been driving for the seventh year. A little bit the wheels only stand at an angle, but this only increases the stability of the machine when entering a turn. By the way, he doesn't eat rubber. Satisfied.

The principles of operation and the device of the torsion bar suspension in Wikipedia

Tool to prepare for repair:

The list can be supplemented depending on the situation.

We'll have to disconnect the brake hoses from the inner lever (they are fixed there with only two bolts), but the beam cannot be dismantled from the machine!

1) We tear off the wheel bolts while the car is on wheels.

4) Weaken the handbrake in the cabin and remove the handbrake cable from the brakes.

5) Unscrew the stabilizer bolts, slide the groove with a chisel and tap the stabilizer. (in the photo, the right side of the car is the stabilizer that enters the lever on the right, the torsion bar on the left). Rear beam repair

6) Unscrew with a torx - the bolt fixing the torsion bar and take out the eccentric washer.

The photo shows the left side of the car - the hairpin is screwed into the torsion bar, (the stabilizer is on the left)

Its exit on the other side in the inner lever:

7) After all the torcs are unscrewed and the washers are removed, you need to mark the position of the torsion bars relative to the lever (with paint), you can even use a school corrector, the point is to apply a solid line of paint on the torsion bar - passing to the suspension arm, the marks must be applied to each torsion bar on each side.

8) Next, unscrew the shock absorber mountings.

9) Then we unscrew the fasteners of the brake hoses and free the metal tubes from the plastic holders on the body.

9) Then we take out the torsion bars, it is more convenient to remove first the upper one, then the lower one. Also, when removing it, it is worth remembering that you need to put something under the rear drums, otherwise, when removing the torsion bar, it can cut off the brake line under its own weight.

10) Remove the levers and knock out the bearings.

11) Immediately on the disassembled lever, holes are drilled for the M6X1 grease fittings - for pressing grease, oil into the lever for lubricating the rubbing bushings during operation. Disassembly is complete. The outer lever, into which the lubricant will be pumped, is hollow inside:

It was decided to close the hole, since those 1.5-2 liters of oil that would have gone to fill the cavity would have played a role in the subsequent handling of the car (not critical, but I decided to close the hole and that's it!). As a result, one can of coffee was damaged and a “motor” sealant was purchased, the size of the patch was adjusted in place. Here's what happened:

In this position, I pushed the tin into the lever with the sealant inside.

Next, we measure the dimensions of the working surfaces of the fingers and levers. Ideally, the pin diameter is 50mm and the lever diameter is 58mm. The bushings are made with an inner diameter of 50.4 mm and an outer diameter of 58.2, but I made exactly 58 mm and the result is that the bushing fits very tightly into the lever, but this is what I achieved. I also decided to make the middle bushing so that it would not allow the two main bushings to collapse during their critical wear after a certain period of time. The intermediate sleeve must be made so that it has a gap between its inner surface and the pin, as well as between the outer surface and the lever - this is necessary for the lubricant to pass from the grease gun to the support bushings. We order bushings from the turner:

Those that need to be drilled in the middle (they are a bit of a different diameter), they are needed so that the two supporting ones do not converge during critical wear. Also, on the inner surfaces of the support bushings, the turner carved spiral grooves for better lubrication:

The middle sleeve is sharpened with the dimensions of the walls, as thin as possible, 5 cm long, we drill 6-10 holes.

The assembly is in the reverse order, the only thing worth noting is that I installed a felt pad on my finger (it is needed for sealing - it does not let oil through) - I cut it out of shoe insoles (new :), a felt boot, etc., is also suitable, and then put on the inner sleeve, then the middle one, then the lever, and finally the outer sleeve. All bushings were lubricated during installation! Possible complications when disassembling the rear beam: If the splines of the torsion bars are stuck, you will have to perform local heating of the levers to facilitate the release of the torsion bars from the seat. In this case, the plastic bushing and bearings are replaced.

Advice: The rear beam is easier to disassemble by detaching it from the vehicle body.

Advice: If there is wear on the axle of the rear beam (pin), this part is subject to replacement, but you can extend its life by installing caprolon bushings instead of needle bearings. Dimensions in brackets are for local fit. Measure the diameter of the worn part and add 0.4 mm. Do not forget to install a felt boot (from an old felt boot) soaked in oil on the rear beam axle before installing the assembled lever.

Attention: The rear beam axles (pins) must be replaced by qualified personnel.

To search for the codes of parts of the torsion bar suspension of the Samand car, use the Catalog of Analogs of spare parts

Igor S., Schumi Tramp, Serge

Most owners of Peugeot 206, 405, 306, Partner, Citroen Berlingo, Xsara, Samand, Lifan are faced with the problem of rear beam restoration. Usually, the solution to this issue is started with a delay, due to the fact that during operation, the breakdown of the rear beam clearly does not manifest itself. Significant rear wheel camber is a visual sign that a rear axle repair is already needed.

Diagnosing the problem, for most owners of these models, is difficult due to lack of experience. If there is a problem, a backlash appears between the rear beam tube and the lever (balancer, swingarm) on which the hub and wheel are installed. In order to determine the backlash in this unit, it is necessary to "hang out" the wheel and try to shake the lever in the place where it joins the beam. The complexity of this diagnosis is that it is necessary to correctly distribute the effort and direction of "staggering"; therefore, not all motorists manage to find this backlash.

Courteous French cars do not annoy their owners and do not advertise the breakdown or wear of the needle bearing with the usual hum. They quietly and peacefully continue to work until their owner notices that the rear wheels are located in a "house", i.e. the upper points of the wheels are strongly inclined towards each other, and the lower points diverge in different directions, as if the rear axle beam is trying to "sit on a twine". In some cases, the repair of the rear beam of the Peugeot 206 involved cars in which the upper point of the inclined wheel rubbed against the body. For some car enthusiasts, the only symptom of a rear beam problem is the scuffing of the body from the tilted tire.

The rear beam of the Peugeot Partner or Citroen Berlingo requires restoration more often than the beam of fellow tribesmen with a sedan body because operated more intensively and with heavy loads. If you want to know more about the repair of the rear beam - find the owner of the Peugeot 405 - he is certainly familiar with the repair of the rear beam.

The design of the rear beam provides for needle bearings on which the arm (balance beam) oscillates. On each side, the rear beam has two needle bearings: an inner (closer to the center) and an outer (extreme on the finger). Looking at these bearings for the first time, one can be surprised at the miniature dimensions of the bearing itself, thin needle rollers and the absence of an inner cage - the bearing rollers "run" along the surface of the shaft (axle, pin). It is these bearings that they forget to change.

The lever has a seat into which the needle bearing is pressed.Together with the needle bearing, the lever is put on the rear beam, more precisely on the rear beam shaft (pin, axle). Thus, the pin is the "treadmill" of the bearing, which is pressed into the corresponding place in the arm. Thanks to the needle bearing, the lever "wobbles" on the rear beam. The elasticity of the lever is supported by torsion bars and a stabilizer.

The classic torsion bar suspension, the rear beam of the Peugeot 405 features a compact structure, softness and excellent stability. For Peugeot 405 passengers, this translates into a comfortable ride on the spacious rear couch. These conveniences come at a price.

The pins are pressed into the beam bracket and to replace them, you will need to mount and dismantle the rear beam, remove the torsion bars, and directly replace the fingers. In order to repress the fingers, experience and a special tool are required. For more information on the problem with pins (shafts, axles), see here. This is the repair of the rear beam - stage one purchase of fingers - $ 30 - $ 40 and replacement of fingers - $ 125 - $ 250.

If the restoration of the posterior beam can be limited to replacing the fingers, then this is not a bad option. It is much worse if you need to repair the levers (balancers) of the rear beam - stage two, $ 60 - $ 80. But this happens rarely, only in the most "neglected" case. For more information on the restoration of the rear beam levers for Peugeot, Citroen, Samand, see here.

1. Adjust the distance between the centers of the lugs of the dummy shock absorber (see "Replacing the shock absorbers"). ^^ 2. Install the dummy shock absorber and tighten the nuts of its fastening.

Order Photo on canvas kharkov / p>

H. When installing torsion bars, do not mix them up.

4. Screw the adapter (2490101З) onto the larger diameter of the torsion bar. Screw the special hammer / rail (25410001) into the adapter.

5. Apply lubricant to the torsion bar splines.

6. Install the thrust washer.

7. Install the torsion bar through the arm bracket. Turning the torsion bar, find a position at which the torsion bar freely moves another 8-10 mm.

8. With percussion movements, hammer the torsion bar against the stop into the puck.

9. Check the alignment of the alignment marks applied to the torsion bar during removal.

10. Apply lubricant, fit the thrust washer and tighten the screws with a tightening torque of 17.5 Nm.

11. Tighten the two parking brake cable matte retaining bolts.

12. Replace the dummy with a shock absorber.

Jack up the suspension arm if necessary.

1Z. Install anti-roll bar. Wheels and lower the car. Measure the height of the car, adjust if necessary.

15. Adjust the dummy shock absorber so that the distance "x" was equal to З28 mm.

16. Using the special tool (24901011) and hook (2490104), compress the suspension until the dummy shock mounts loosely in the upper and lower mounts.

17. Remove the dummy shock absorber.

18. Install the shock absorber. Tighten the retaining nuts to 110 Nm.

19.Remove the suspension loading tool.

20. Install and tighten the wheel nuts.

ENGINE ROOM - 1.6L DURATEC-16V TI-VCT (SIGMA)
A Brake and clutch fluid reservoir (right-hand drive vehicle): See Checking the brake fluid and hydraulic fluid levels.

Removing the backrest of the rear seats
Since the rear bench seat is attached in front to the bottom with steel bolts and is clamped at the back under the backrest, we will not dwell here in detail - to remove it, first lift it up.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF AIR FILTER HOUSING AND ITS FILTER ELEMENT
1. Release the clamp and move the duct. 2. Unscrew the two screws. H. Release the two clips and remove the air filter cover. 4. Remove the filter element. 5. Release the air clip.

Considering the problems of torsion beams, we can come to the conclusion that the maintenance and repair of the torsion bar suspension of Citroen, Peugeot, Samand, Lifan, SMA is mainly associated with the following situations:

• Suspension height adjustment
• Dismantling or replacing torsion bars of the rear beam
• Replacing the rear beam needle bearings
• Replacement of axles, rear beam pins
• Rear beam arm repair

The above procedures, to varying degrees, bother the owners of Peugeot 405, Peugeot 306, Peugeot 206, Peugeot 405, Peugeot Partner, Citroen Xsara, Citroen Xsara Picasso, Citroen Xsara, Citroen AX, Citroen Berlingo, Samand, Lifan, SMA - torsion bar suspension.

Adjusting the height of the rear suspension cannot be regarded as a torsion bar suspension repair, usually this is due to the fact that a "sporty" owner wants to raise the rear of the car. In some cases, it makes sense to change the height of the torsion beam in order to increase the rigidity and reduce the draft of the rear of the car, at maximum load. Of course, one must understand that the rear beam torsion bar is not designed for such work, and if the rear beam height changes, it will be operated under a more aggressive load, which will most likely affect its resource.

The change in height consists in changing the position of the torsion bar, or rather its splined end, sprocket. The torsion bar, at its ends, has slotted connectors (male). At one end, the torsion bar is attached to the slotted connector (female), into the rear beam arm. Another, in the slot on the beam body. The native position of the splines is marked with marks, the displacement of the splines and marks indicates a change in height and stiffness.

If a torsion bar suspension is being repaired, it is usually necessary to dismantle the torsion bars. In this situation, it is important to outline the native position of the torsion bars in the rear beam, so that during installation it would be, unambiguously, clear - what and where is inserted. To dismantle the torsion bar when pulling it out of the splined connection, an inertial puller is used. The puller pin is screwed into the thread at the end of the torsion bar, it is possible that this thread will need to be cleaned - stock up on a tap. Very often, the spline joints of the torsion bars, as they say, "sour" or "stick", in this case, a standard, inertial puller will not help, an ordinary sledgehammer helps.

In most cases, the repair of the torsion bar suspension for Peugeot, Citroen, Samand, Lifan, SMA is associated with replacing the needle bearings of the rear beam arm. According to some reports, replacement of needle bearings is required after 80,000 km. In the process of replacing bearings, it will be necessary to dismantle the torsion bars and levers of the rear beam. Each side of the beam has two bearings.

The most dangerous problem of the rear beam of Peugeot, Citroen, Samand, Lifan is that it is difficult for an ordinary car enthusiast to determine the wear of the needle bearing. In the absence of diagnostics, the car is operated with a crumbled bearing, exacerbating the problem. As a result, the axle wears out (another name is a finger) along which the roller-needles of the bearing "run" (the needle bearing of the rear beam of Citroen, Peugeot, Samand has no inner cage, its rollers "swing" directly along the surface of the axle).

Replacing the axles of the rear beam is possible, but very difficult at home, because, in addition to knowledge and experience, it requires special equipment and devices. Service stations that officially deal with PSA cars do not replace axles, but only offer a new beam assembly with new axles - a rather expensive offer.

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Time zone: UTC + 2 hours [Daylight Saving Time]

Together with the car, I got from the old owner two native bearings in the beam. They did not inspire confidence in me at all, it seems that the bike has something more reliable.

Everything was decided by chance. With my brother we are engaged in woodworking, we have sawmills, such as we once used to be on collective farms, feeds logs up to a meter in diameter and worked without problems for 40 years, if not more, until one bearing flew. They knocked him out, looked - needle-shaped and painfully similar to our own.
I found a point selling bearings, I found the ones I needed.
Measured: inner diameter 50 mm, outer about 60, width 4 cm.

When he came up with bearings to his pie, there was a 405 wad next to him, his driver looked at the bearings and asked me: “What, also into the beam?”. We started talking. It turns out that he has had these bearings in the levers for 8 years, and the mileage is well over 200 thousand, and the car is operated quite toughly, carries auto parts, pulls a loaded trailer.

In one word I came home and the first thing I did was try on bearings to my fingers:

Here, my beam was no longer just grunting, it grunted, and grunt, and grunt, and only did not make any sounds + when loading, the car literally floated on the asphalt on broken levers and the complete absence of bearings in them.

I figured out a schematic in my mind, took the turner, said what was needed in the end, and now, the result:
Lever inside:

Fitting a finger, an oil seal 50x65x10 from the second generation golf half-axis:

The turner cut an oil can into the lid, although I did not ask for it. But once done, let it be. A plug was inserted into the finger, the front bearing will now be permanently lubricated (well, let's hope).
I already grabbed the cap and the rear sleeve by welding, they sit there quite reliably, but our man needs to be on the safe side. In the future, everything here will be beautifully finished, but for now, this is how it is.

Before making this system to myself, two hippos were remade for these bearings. One has a mileage of 2 thousand so far, the second has 15 thousand, serves a retail outlet, loads to capacity, while there are no problems.

And one minus, after installing the bearings in the lever, it no longer fits on the finger freely, you need to remove quite a bit, literally a few microns, and everything is fine. This is not noticeable to the eye. The plane of pressing the finger into the lever remained untouched.

Costing:
Bearing kit - 150 UAH
Oil seals, 2 pcs - 30 UAH
Fingers - 500 UAH
Turner services - 300 UAH
Total: 980 UAH
ps I haven’t counted expenses for a taxi while being repaired.

Well, now the armor-piercing helmet is dressed, you can throw tomatoes.

Rear beam repair

Significant rear wheel camber is a visual sign that a rear axle repair is already needed. ... We are restoring beams on a Peugeot 405, P.

Rear beam repair | Forum

December 24, 2010 Many car services offer replacement of the entire rear beam with their own (usually restored and the same one that was killed) and take the removed old one for restoration.

Rear beam Peugeot Citroen Lifan Samand

Repair of the rear beam of Peugeot, Citroen, Samand consists of various stages, one of which is the replacement of the fingers (axles).

Car repair - Samand and Peugeot rear beam repair

We make repairs and restoration of the rear beams of Samand and Peugeot. Conversion for other bearings or bushings. We put on three wide bearings. (The finger works over the entire surface).

... Citroen, Peugeot, Samand - Repair of the rear beam Citroen, Peugeot, Samand

MOT and Repair of Peugeot, Citroen, Samand rear beam repair. ... The torsion bar suspension of the Peugeot and Citroen model range, Samand has both a number of advantages (simplicity of execution, good handling, resistance to loads) and a number of disadvantages, after a decent one.

Repair of a rear beam of Peugeot, Citroen, Samand to order in Donetsk Ukraine.

Restoration, repair of rear beam levers for Peugeot, Citroen, Samand. ... Restoration and repair of motor vehicle bridges. Maintenance and repair of vehicles.

Repair of the rear beam Samand, Peugeot and Citroen: sale, price in Donetsk.

Repair of the rear beam with the replacement of pins, as well as a groove for other bearings. (. 3 pcs. On one side).

rear beam repair

Iran Khodro Samand ›Logbook› rear beam repair. ... I drove a year and a half and thought that it was time to look at the rear beam. In the end, he waited: on the weekend, the rear suspension clicked.

Rear beam repair and restoration Partner, Berlingo and Samand.

Repair and restoration of the rear beam for Peugeot 405, Partner, Citroen Berlingo and Samand. The repair and restoration includes: replacement of bearings with reinforced ones with the possibility of lubrication, installation of double-breasted oil seals, replacement of beam pins (if required) Guarantee of 100 thousand km.

: Rear beams

Time zone: UTC + 2 hours [Daylight Saving Time]

Together with the car, I got from the old owner two native bearings in the beam. They did not inspire confidence in me at all, it seems that the bike has something more reliable.

Everything was decided by chance. With my brother we are engaged in woodworking, we have sawmills, such as we once used to be on collective farms, feeds logs up to a meter in diameter and worked without problems for 40 years, if not more, until one bearing flew. They knocked him out, looked - needle-shaped and painfully similar to our own.
I found a point selling bearings, I found the ones I needed.
Measured: inner diameter 50 mm, outer about 60, width 4 cm.

When he came up with bearings to his pie, there was a 405 wad next to him, his driver looked at the bearings and asked me: “What, also into the beam?”. We started talking. It turns out that he has had these bearings in the levers for 8 years, and the mileage is well over 200 thousand, and the car is operated quite toughly, carries auto parts, pulls a loaded trailer.

In one word I came home and the first thing I did was try on bearings to my fingers:

Here, my beam was no longer just grunting, it grunted, and grunt, and grunt, and only did not make any sounds + when loading, the car literally floated on the asphalt on broken levers and the complete absence of bearings in them.

I figured out a schematic in my mind, took the turner, said what was needed in the end, and now, the result:
Lever inside:

Fitting a finger, an oil seal 50x65x10 from the second generation golf half-axis:

The turner cut an oil can into the lid, although I did not ask for it. But once done, let it be. A plug was inserted into the finger, the front bearing will now be permanently lubricated (well, let's hope).
I already grabbed the cap and the rear sleeve by welding, they sit there quite reliably, but our man needs to be on the safe side. In the future, everything here will be beautifully finished, but for now, this is how it is.

Before making this system to myself, two hippos were remade for these bearings. One has a mileage of 2 thousand so far, the second has 15 thousand, serves a retail outlet, loads to capacity, while there are no problems.

And one minus, after installing the bearings in the lever, it no longer fits on the finger freely, you need to remove quite a bit, literally a few microns, and everything is fine. This is not noticeable to the eye. The plane of pressing the finger into the lever remained untouched.

Costing:
Bearing kit - 150 UAH
Oil seals, 2 pcs - 30 UAH
Fingers - 500 UAH
Turner services - 300 UAH
Total: 980 UAH
ps I haven’t counted expenses for a taxi while being repaired.

Well, now the armor-piercing helmet is dressed, you can throw tomatoes.

In my opinion, the coolest video can not be found. Super!

damn once I wanted to buy. it’s good that I didn’t take it!

Guys, please tell me where to get the oil seals 50 * 65 * 8; the whole city climbed, there are no such, from which it is at least a car and what to put on.

By the way, please tell me about the consumption of benzyl.

It should be on the intake manifold, I have a car in another city now, so I don't remember exactly. In any case, you need to go to the diagnosis, you need to identify the sore and then treat it.

air sensor where.
in a choke with a red round?

diagnostics, candles, wires, air sensor, also depends on the mileage, but 10kA on the highway is a bit too much. Unless, of course, the ride is minus 40. There are many reasons, but I would start with diagnostics.

my mustang eats more than 10 infection and even on the highway at 100-110 km high
do not tell me what you can pay attention to ?? I am not satisfied with such a flow!

With my style of driving, 10 in the city is easy in the summer, the engine is clearly not enough for him (8-valve). On the highway 7-7.5 at a speed of no more than 120. If you do not press hard on the trigger, I think the indicators can be reduced.

Krasava, I said everything right !!
I could not find the type who will take on the torsion beam, or rather, for its repair!
I dumped 12 thousand ito for one side! Idiot had to buy fingers
on both sides !!

put coprolon bushings right on the knotted fingers, the wheels are level, only the rear has become stiff

As soon as they become soft, you will change again.

But now there will be no special problems with the rear suspension, only during tovot

I solved the problem in an easier way, I also had the needle bearings rubbed, my fingers tingled and the beam inside. And the main problem there is the oil seal. No matter how you smear it on it, and your finger flows directly into the gap with water from the wheels and grains of dirt, the metal in this place corrodes and turns into sandpaper and any further tears apart the oil seal and then the corrosion of the fingers and the bearings. And this happens very quickly, especially if you drive on salty roads. I just had a metal pipe lying near the garage. I took out of it with a grinder and cut the bushings. then he pressed the bushings into the beam and cut the grease fittings. Well, he pushed new seals for decency. It turned out that old knotted fingers have pores and the lubricant fits into them perfectly. I poured nigrol into the beam. It turned out just like in a swing. Fingers there at high revs do not go in any way. No bearings no problem. I have been driving for the seventh year. A little bit the wheels only stand at an angle, but this only increases the stability of the machine when entering a turn. By the way, he doesn't eat rubber. Satisfied.

Torsion bar suspension repair

Considering the problems of torsion beams, we can come to the conclusion that the maintenance and repair of the torsion bar suspension for Citroen, Peugeot, Samand, Lifan, SMA is mainly associated with the following situations:

• Suspension height adjustment
• Dismantling or replacing torsion bars of the rear beam
• Replacing the rear beam needle bearings
• Replacement of axles, rear beam pins
• Rear beam arm repair

The above procedures, to varying degrees, bother the owners of Peugeot 405, Peugeot 306, Peugeot 206, Peugeot 405, Peugeot Partner, Citroen Xsara, Citroen Xsara Picasso, Citroen Xsara, Citroen AX, Citroen Berlingo, Samand, Lifan, SMA - torsion bar suspension.

Rear suspension height adjustment. cannot be regarded as a torsion bar suspension repair, usually this is due to the fact that the owner, professing a "sporty style" wants to raise the rear of the car. In some cases, it makes sense to change the height of the torsion beam in order to increase the rigidity and reduce the draft of the rear of the car, at maximum load. Of course, one must understand that the rear beam torsion bar is not designed for such work, and if the rear beam height changes, it will be operated under a more aggressive load, which will most likely affect its resource.

The change in height consists in changing the position of the torsion bar, or rather its splined end, sprocket. The torsion bar, at its ends, has slotted connectors (male). At one end, the torsion bar is attached to the slotted connector (female), into the rear beam arm. Another, in the slot on the beam body.The native position of the splines is marked with marks, the displacement of the splines and marks indicates a change in height and stiffness.

If a torsion bar suspension is being repaired, it is usually necessary to dismantle the torsion bars. In this situation, it is important to outline the native position of the torsion bars in the rear beam, so that during installation it would be unambiguously clear what and where is inserted. To dismantle the torsion bar when pulling it out of the splined connection, an inertial puller is used. The puller pin is screwed into the thread on the end of the torsion bar, it is possible that this thread will need to be cleaned - stock up on a tap. Very often, the splined joints of the torsion bars, as they say, "sour" or "stick", in this case, a standard, inertial puller will not help, an ordinary sledgehammer helps.

In most cases, the repair of the torsion bar suspension for Peugeot, Citroen, Samand, Lifan, SMA is associated with replacing the needle bearings of the rear beam arm. According to some reports, replacement of needle bearings is required after 80,000 km. In the process of replacing bearings, it will be necessary to dismantle the torsion bars and levers of the rear beam. Each side of the beam has two bearings.

The most dangerous problem of the rear beam of Peugeot, Citroen, Samand, Lifan is that it is difficult for an ordinary motorist to determine the wear of a needle bearing. In the absence of diagnostics, the car is operated with a crumbled bearing, exacerbating the problem. As a result, the axle wears out (another name is a finger) along which the roller-needles of the bearing "run" (the needle bearing of the rear beam of Citroen, Peugeot, Samand has no inner cage, its rollers "swing" directly along the surface of the axle).

Replacing the rear beam axles is possible, but very difficult at home, because in addition to knowledge and experience, it requires special equipment and devices. Service stations that officially deal with PSA cars do not replace axles, but only offer a new beam assembly with new axles - a rather expensive offer.

The most severe case, as part of the repair of the torsion bar suspension, is the destruction of the needle bearing seat in the lever. This rarely happens, in an extremely "neglected" situation. The seat collapses for the same reasons as the rear beam pin, but much less frequently, because this place is protected by an outer bearing race. Lever repair consists in restoring the seat and is carried out on metal-cutting equipment. The main problem of the rear beam arm restoration is the search for the necessary equipment, this work is performed on a lathe and boring machine.