Do-it-yourself Renault Kangoo rear beam repair

Replacing silent blocks in a four-torsion beam is a rather entertaining procedure and requires a little patience and perseverance. In our case, the silent blocks were changed on a Renault kangoo D55 typewriter with an F8Q engine, but the replacement principle is the same for all cars with a rear suspension of this type.

1. Raise the back of the car. We remove the rear wheels, clean the wheel arches from manure and dirt.
2. Disconnect the parking brake cables and take them out of the beam.
3. & nbspDisconnect the brake pipes and turn off the brake force regulator. We muffle the brake line both on the beam and on the machine by plugging the brake pipes.

4. Remove the shock absorbers
5. Remove the beam. We unscrew two nuts on the brackets with which the beam is attached to the body. We observe safety precautions - the beam is heavy. If you have a kangoo truck converted into a passenger, make sure that there is free access to the beam mounting bolts from the passenger compartment. After rework, the bolts can be hidden under the skin.

We will not remove the stabilizing torsion bars from the beam during the repair, all further operations with the torsion bars will be performed only with the working torsion bars.

6. Pulling the beam out from under the car, mark the left and right torsion bar so as not to confuse

7. We make notches on the torsion bar, marking its position relative to the coupling and relative to the bracket. These tags will help you install new silencers.

8. Get rid of old silent blocks. With a heavy sledgehammer (3 kg.), Through a bronze or iron spacer (we used a piece of pipe with a diameter of 60 mm.) We knock down the bracket. The rubber of the silent block will absorb and cushion shocks, so it is advisable to either drill or burn it out.

After the rubber is burned out, the bracket gets off more easily, usually it flies out together with the torsion bar rotted to it.

9.Using a pipe nozzle and a sledgehammer, knock the bracket off the torsion bar. It is believed that you can separate the torsion bar and the bracket with a puller. In theory - yes, in practice, if the last time the torsion bar was removed more than a year ago - using the puller will be ineffective.

10. We pick out the remnants of the silent blocks. We knocked out the clip of the silent block from the bracket with a chisel, but you can try to drill it. The second clip, from the beam, is knocked out of the pipe of the corresponding diameter by a spacer.

There is a slightly different way to dismantle old silent blocks. Having removed the beam, carefully cut the silent block approximately in the middle - between the bracket and the beam, and only then we perform all the above actions aimed at removing the silent block. It's a little easier that way.

11. We clean the splines on the torsion bars, in the coupling and in the brackets.

We install new silent blocks. There are two ways to install. The first - the beam bracket, relative to the torsion bar, is installed according to the marks made earlier. The second way - we set the position of the bracket according to the instructions for the car.

12. We hammer in the new silent blocks using an iron spacer in the beam.

13. According to the marks made earlier, we put the torsion bar into the beam. Using the marks, up to the slot, we find the position in which the bracket should be located. We take out the torsion bar. We hammer the bracket onto the silent block - so that the silent block does not go into the beam and does not spring on the rubber, we push a horseshoe-shaped piece of reinforcement of the required diameter into the gap between the silent block and the beam.

When installing silent blocks, we observe the distance between the centers of the fastening holes of the beam closest to the silent block. For Renault kangoo with four torsion beam Y = 1164 mm.

If we put silent blocks according to the instructions, then we are guided not by marks, but we set the distance X, which for the Renault kangoo car with a four-torsion beam is 156 mm.

When installing torsion bars, a wooden blade must be hammered under the coupling (Width - 50 mm, length - 103.5 mm, height - 23 mm, the angle between the edges of the wedge is 13 o). But as practice has shown, when replacing only two working torsion bars, you can do without a wedge. It is in demand when installing all four torsion bars at the same time.

14. We drag the assembled beam under the car and attach it to the body.
15. From a threaded rod with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of half a meter, we make a device for the correct installation of torsion bars.

16. Set the distance of 402 mm on the device, install it instead of the shock absorber and drive the torsion bar into the beam. If the silent blocks were installed according to the marks, then the device may not be needed. The distance between the mounting holes of the shock absorbers, with a small error, will correspond to 402 mm.
17. Connect the brake pipes. We connect the brake force regulator.
18. Connect the parking brake cable.
19. Install shock absorbers (clamp when the car is on wheels).
20. We pump over the rear brakes.

Renault Kangoo (1st generation) owner's story - a visit to a service. Replacement rear shock absorbers on Renault Megan2. This is the second attempt to replace silent blocks on our own. The first was about 6 years ago. Stretching out the beam, nervously chewed his nails near it (since I do not smoke) threw it back and went to the service station. Now a toad crushed me a little to pay 1500 UAH for a replacement + there is a second car and this downtime is not so sick. Running to p ...

Renault Kangoo 1.5 DCI REFRIGERATOR ›Logbook› Replacement silent blocks rear beam (4 torsion bar)

This is the second attempt at replacement silent blocks on their own. The first was about 6 years ago. Stretching out the beam, nervously chewed his nails near it (since I do not smoke) threw it back and went to the service station. Now a toad crushed me a little to pay 1500 UAH for a replacement + there is a second car and this downtime is not so sick. Looking at the pen I will say that I changed them within a week.

The seizure process is not difficult. But in my case, everything cannot be good. The fasteners on the bolts scrolled (I had to remove the rear seats and the floor), the brake pipes were rusted (I also had to suffer) and, as always, I did everything myself without help.

Here it is, in all its glory. The wear was maximum, the torsion bar hit the lever and the rubber completely peeled off. On both sides.

This operation is performed after removing the rear axle and separating both beam rods.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

T. Ag. 960-02 Bearing rings and bushings remover

T. Ag. 960-05 Tool for replacing _ needle bearings_

Remove the beams (left) from the female bar:

- the outer ring of the bearing (6) using a puller T. Ag. 960,

- the inner ring of the bearing (7) using the small tip of the puller T. Ag. 960.

Cut the bearing rings on the male beam rod (right) using a flat abrasive disc, making sure not to touch the rod surface.

Use a chisel to widen the slot in the bearing rings, then remove the rings.

Cut and remove the o-ring (5).

Adaptation T. Ag. 960-05 should be used for installing needle bearings and bearing rings.

- small needle bearing on the mandrel (A),

- the mandrel (A) into the beam bar, using the mandrel (B) as a guide.

Using a press, press the mandrel (A) flush with the plane (2) of the mandrel (B).

- large needle bearing on the mandrel (B),

- a mandrel (B) into the beam bar, using a mandrel (A) as a guide.

Using a press, press in the bearing ring until the arbor shoulder (B) touches the end of the beam rod.

Install a new o-ring (5) on the male beam rod.

The bearing rings are chamfered on one side.

It is important to observe the direction of installation of the rings: the chamfer (4) must be oriented as shown in the figure in order to provide sufficient bearing area when pressing on the ring.

- a large bearing ring in a mandrel (D),

- node, consisting of mandrels (D) and (C), on the beam bar.

Press the mandrel (C) together with the mandrel (D) flush with the side (3) of the beam rod.

- small bearing ring in the mandrel (C),

- the mandrel (C) onto the rod, using the mandrel (D) as a guide.

Using a press, press the mandrel (C) flush with the side (3) of the beam rod.

When pressing in parts, if the load was applied to the beam supports, then it is necessary to make sure that the beam rods are correctly positioned in their supports (as they could be displaced).

Re-align if necessary.

Combine both beam rods.

NOTE: needle bearings are filled with grease for life and do not require any further lubrication later on.

Connect and install the rear axle support to the vehicle (see the relevant section).

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED Emb. 880 Inertial puller

Upper Support Bolt

Lower support bolt

From the vehicle raised so that its wheels hang freely, remove the defective shock absorber.

Remove the torsion bar from the side of the defective shock absorber using the Emb. 880.

To position the suspension arms so that the torsion bar can be correctly installed, a fixture must be made on site.

With Threaded rod, diameter 12 mm, length 660 mm

D Bracket made of 30 x 5 mm sheet steel

E Bolt, diameter 12 mm, length 60 mm, length of the threaded part 20 mm

Pre-adjust the fixture to fit

Install the fixture instead of the shock absorber.

Lubricate the torsion bar splines with MOLYKOTE BR2, install the torsion bar in the support inside the beam bar and on the beam support bracket, and try, by rotating the threaded rod of the fixture, to find a position where the torsion bar easily fits into the splines of both the supports inside the beam bar and on the support bracket beam rods.

Remove the fixture and install the shock absorber.

Place the car on the wheels and measure the height of the control points of the bottom of the car (see the section "Height of the control points of the bottom of the car with a tubular beam rear axle").

Check and adjust if necessary:

Here is a photo report about repair of the rear beam Renault Kangoo to the service station "Orbita" St. Petersburg.

Two types of bolts were installed on the Renault Kangoo car, with two torsion bars (reinforced) and four torsion bars. The design of the beams is reliable, but due to long-term operation or overloads it can fail. Signs of a malfunction are a knock and creak of the rear beam if the car does not hold the road well, as well as a decrease in ground clearance (the rear wheels go into the arch).

In our case, the rear suspension of Renault Kangu sagged, and upon further diagnostics it turned out that the torsion bar had burst. Rear beam repair, the work is specific and voluminous, and not every car service will undertake it. Service station "Orbita" is a specialized service for the repair of the rear beam of Renault Kangu.

The work includes replacing torsion bars and rear beam bushings. The difficulty lies in the fact that over time, all connections sour and do not unscrew. Preheated by a burner, the torsion bars are knocked out of the splined joints. The silent blocks are burned out and squeezed out on the press (official dealers do not carry out this work).

This operation is performed after removing the rear axle and separating both beam rods.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

T. Ag. 960-02 Bearing rings and bushings remover

T. Ag. 960-05 Tool for replacing _ needle bearings_

Remove the beams (left) from the female bar:

- the outer ring of the bearing (6) using a puller T. Ag. 960,

- the inner ring of the bearing (7) using the small tip of the puller T. Ag. 960.

Cut the bearing rings on the male beam rod (right) using a flat abrasive disc, making sure not to touch the rod surface.

Use a chisel to widen the slot in the bearing rings, then remove the rings.

Cut and remove the o-ring (5).

Adaptation T. Ag.960-05 should be used for installing needle bearings and bearing rings.

- small needle bearing on the mandrel (A),

- the mandrel (A) into the beam bar, using the mandrel (B) as a guide.

Using a press, press the mandrel (A) flush with the plane (2) of the mandrel (B).

- large needle bearing on the mandrel (B),

- a mandrel (B) into the beam bar, using a mandrel (A) as a guide.

Using a press, press in the bearing ring until the arbor shoulder (B) touches the end of the beam rod.

Install a new o-ring (5) on the male beam rod.

The bearing rings are chamfered on one side.

It is important to observe the direction of installation of the rings: the chamfer (4) must be oriented as shown in the figure in order to provide sufficient bearing area when pressing on the ring.

- a large bearing ring in a mandrel (D),

- node, consisting of mandrels (D) and (C), on the beam bar.

Press the mandrel (C) together with the mandrel (D) flush with the side (3) of the beam rod.

- small bearing ring in the mandrel (C),

- the mandrel (C) onto the rod, using the mandrel (D) as a guide.

Using a press, press the mandrel (C) flush with the side (3) of the beam rod.

When pressing in parts, if the load was applied to the beam supports, then it is necessary to make sure that the beam rods are correctly positioned in their supports (as they could be displaced).

Re-align if necessary.

Combine both beam rods.

NOTE: needle bearings are filled with grease for life and do not require any further lubrication later on.

Connect and install the rear axle support to the vehicle (see the relevant section).

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED Emb. 880 Inertial puller

Upper Support Bolt

Lower support bolt

From the vehicle raised so that its wheels hang freely, remove the defective shock absorber.

Remove the torsion bar from the side of the defective shock absorber using the Emb. 880.

To position the suspension arms so that the torsion bar can be correctly installed, a fixture must be made on site.

With Threaded rod, diameter 12 mm, length 660 mm

D Bracket made of 30 x 5 mm sheet steel

E Bolt, diameter 12 mm, length 60 mm, length of the threaded part 20 mm

Pre-adjust the fixture to fit

Install the fixture instead of the shock absorber.

Lubricate the torsion bar splines with MOLYKOTE BR2, install the torsion bar in the support inside the beam bar and on the beam support bracket, and try, by rotating the threaded rod of the fixture, to find a position where the torsion bar easily fits into the splines of both the supports inside the beam bar and on the support bracket beam rods.

Remove the fixture and install the shock absorber.

Place the car on the wheels and measure the height of the control points of the bottom of the car (see the section "Height of the control points of the bottom of the car with a tubular beam rear axle").

Check and adjust if necessary:

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE REAR AXLE BEAM

1. Place the vehicle on a two-post lift,
2. Install the pressure device on the brake pedal.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the lower supports of both shock absorbers, remove the brake pipes, brake force regulator, central heat shield, brake cables, disconnecting them from the adjusting unit.
4. Disconnect the cables from the clips on the fuel tank.
5. Install the rear axle beam on the support and unscrew the nuts 1 (fig.10.14).
6. Remove the rear axle support.

NOTE. Access to the beam support bolts can be obtained after removing the rear seat cushion (depending on the vehicle version) and removing the plugs.

7. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torques
Rear axle beam support retaining nut - 110 Nm.
Wheel bolt - 90 Nm.
Shock absorber lower support bolt - 85 Nm.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE HUB BEARING

Check the axial bearing play by installing a dial gauge on the brake drum: 0 - 0.03 mm (maximum allowable).

1. Remove the hub cover using the Rou 943 and Emb. 880.

2. Remove the brake drum.
3. Remove the circlip and hub bearing from the brake drum using a piece of pipe.

4. Install a new circlip, brake drum on the pre-lubricated hub journal, screw on a new hub nut and

tighten it to the required torque, install the hub cover.
5. Adjust the position of the brake pads by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal and the parking brake.

Tightening torques
Wheel bolts - 90 Nm.
Hub nut - 175 Nm.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE BEAM BAR

1. Place the vehicle on a 2 post lift.
2. Remove the stabilizer bar, the lower shock absorber support, the rear brake cable, disconnecting it in the adjusting unit under the car, the brake pipe.
3. Unscrew the two nuts A support fastening (Fig.10.15).
4. Loosen the two nuts A on the other support so that the beam bar can be removed from the support.
5. Remove the beam rod by separating it from the other rod.

6. Make sure the bearing rings or needle bearings are in good condition, otherwise replace them. Needle bearings are filled with grease for life and do not require any further lubrication.

7. Pull both axle beam rods together until dimension is obtained. V (fig.10.16).
8. Further installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torques
Axle beam support fastening nut - 110 Nm.
Stabilizer support bolt - 55 Nm.
Wheel bolt - 90 Nm.
Shock absorber lower support bolt - 85 Nm

Renault Kangu was equipped with two types of beams - four-torsion and two-torsion. On a four-torsion beam there are two working torsion bars, two stabilizing bars and silent blocks. This beam is so called open type. From the factory, the stabilizing torsion bars in these beams were installed hollow. The repair torsion bars are already made from solid metal.

Replacing the silent blocks in the Renault Kangoo four-torsion beam is a rather complicated procedure. Without work experience, you can spend a lot of time. Torsion bars, as a rule, in these beams are strongly sealed in a slotted one and you must try to knock them out from there. In no case do not heat the slotted burner where the torsion bar is, this can lead to the loss of the torsion properties.

Renault Kangoo's two-torsion beam is structurally different from the four-torsion beam; the torsion bars are inside the tube.

The beam consists of two parts. There are bearings in the middle. There are silent blocks along the edges of the beam. The problems in these beams can be different. If you replaced that the beam has sagged, the reason is in the torsion bars or silent blocks of the beam. If there is a play in the middle of the beam, there is a problem in the needle bearings of the beam.

If you notice a backlash in the beam, do not tighten the repair. Needle bearings stand inside the pipe, if the bearing crumbles, it begins to eat away the seat in the beam, into which the bearing is pressed. There is no way to restore the fit in the pipe; you have to change the beam pipe, which entails expensive repairs.

Many car owners turn to the service station already with an obvious problem with the beam, not realizing that the longer you drive a faulty car, the more expensive the repairs are.

He smeared it with a brush and that's it, the commentator is fucked up.! Well, everyone put the cap on. Thank you neighing!

There is another silent block, without a leg. This is for a four-torsion beam. It is necessary for a two-torsion beam. And since everything is with us everywhere. And it will not go anywhere. We crush everything with our hands.

Sukaaaa))), then it's more fun, these fuckers put a torsion bar on the tile and screw up with a hammer on top, hammer. Damn, it was not for nothing that Hitler wrote that this Slavic breed is subhuman. What's going on in my head? Fuck bast shoes and walk through the fields!

We gave the dumbass a grinder in his hands. Metal fucking. Aaaaaa, and sho there is metal? Tell me, does this animal know how to think except how to hold a grinder in your hands?

everything is completely wrong

And how long did the silent block go? And why didn't I change the second one?

hands with the master's singing

hands with the master's pont

I could barely see the number of the original salenblock 7700809945 on the video

salen block number in the studio.

What the fuck is this ?! What kind of service is this ?! Where are the marks? That is why I went over my three beams myself. They don’t care that the silent blocks have been left without marks, it’s not their car, but the fact that the owner will soon face the same problem does not concern them. By the way, how is this silent blocker doing a year later. ?

but they did not completely remove the beam

Thank you. Now it's my turn to change

Why put on a tile when you knocked down a clip?

mikhail zabavskiy well, not me, but the master 🙂 I would not put it. I have a brain

Why are you so cursing to the whole world. Really monkeys.

A 2-torsion beam and Silent was brought from a 4-torsion beam, so it did not fit

EGOR PILIPENKO may be so. I do not understand this:)

informatively, thanks for the advice, removing your mistakes by yourself, sifted through the day

You also broke the silent block while knocking out

guys! Klas. gaining experience

Everything is done this way with us, with the help of a sledgehammer and such and such a mother, and so there is something to pick up.

All filmed in detail well done, well done operator.

Sergei Comarov ☺️ tried to shoot everything thoroughly. Suddenly someone will help to repair the car 🙂

Dmitry well, what are they :) I myself do not rummage about this 🙂 I trust the specialists

like for the video .. typically a commercial car. with a dead leaking shock absorber go .. and why changed ?? knocked or what? when I bought it, the fly did not sit under the cap and then began to rust, although I lubricated Wait regularly, I change the lubricant. I also drilled a hole in the beam in the middle of the beam and poured oil from a syringe. why didn't they remove the rust under the hood ?? and did not grease.

and the wheels are rubbed along the inner contour

still wheels are a house, on a Citroen there are some finished bearings, and such a silent as the wildest tuning, I wanted to ask for a two pipe tube without an elongated nozzle?

Vasily B. Indeed. Such sounds were.

well that's 75 percent of driving style and the rest of the roads.

I had this, but only on a 4-torsion beam: when driving over bumps or hitting a deep hole, when the wheel sharply goes up or down, there was a blunt metal blow, or a series of several blows (like a shot), as if with a hammer along the beam, but only through a rag)) something like that.
if you take silent, then do not save. bought cheap for a year was not enough

Do you all swear like that, or are they only masters?

Alex Lang was filmed by a computer repairman. Apparently that's why at least something happened.

Valery Lashinsky there is not one master.
this is how amateurs work.
but good fellows filmed the video

Bushing SWAG 60 92 1039.

Lift rental: Instagram: @aprilrzn 89307834912 Auto parts for wholesale Automatic transmission repair Locksmith and.

The rear torsion bar allows you to adjust the suspension height. Many French, Italian, etc.

Renault Logan How to change the silent blocks of the rear beam.

The series summarizes what has been done to the car during its restoration. Separately illuminated.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam Renault Logan, Sandero, Largus, Logan2, Duster, Almera - without removing the beam.

The work on replacing the torsion bars and silent blocks of the rear beam was carried out for the first time. There is nothing complicated and.

unusual silent blocks in the beam Renault Megan 2 station wagon. it is not at all clear whether it is a plant or a cooperative. but soon.

Pressing out and installing rear beam silent blocks on Renault Laguna 2.

Report on the replacement of 4-torsion rear beam silent blocks on the Renault Megane 1 and the increase in ground clearance, do not judge strictly.

I changed the silent blocks on the rear beam Renault Scenic 2-2008. without a lift.

Required:
- pit
- tool (key heads, hammer, hacksaw, etc.)
- M12-16 hairpin with nuts and washers (outer F washers = outer F s / b + 5-10 mm)
- brakes for pumping the system
- two assistants (one - to roll out, roll up the beam; together when installing torsion bars)

I will try to remember and explain the mustache.

1. Remove the wheels, place them on supports, etc.

2. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the calipers and release them from the beam.

3. Same procedure for ABS wiring.

4. We disconnect the brake hoses from the pipes, muffle the pipes (the brake will not leak out).

5. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the beam, observe safety precautions.

6. We unscrew two bolts securing the beam levers to the body, the beam falls, observe safety precautions.

7. We roll it out to the workbench, take out the plastic plugs, retaining rings and remove the torsion bar balancers.

8. There is a thread at the end of the torsion bars. We screw the bolts into them, and pull out the torsion bars using the reverse hammer method. Preliminarily, it is advisable to fill the joints of the splines with a brake or VD shoe. Before that, usually no one climbed there - everything is rusty. When pulling out the torsion bar, we pull the fastening lever in order to unload the torsion bar, without this there will not be enough strength to rip it out.

9. S / w did not get in the usual way, I had to cut out the rubber with the inner sleeve and saw the outer c / w. Then we got out with a whistle. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise you can cut what you don’t need.

10. Now for the most important thing. The lifespan of s / b (any) depends on 90% of their correct installation. S / b after installation should be in a free position when the car is on the "ground", ie. the rubber should not be twisted (for information: for example, the front levers are pressed in, the lever is put on the car, but the fastening bolts are not fully clamped so that the inner sleeve of the lever is free. working position, then it is clamped by the moment, according to the talmuts).

11. At this moment, it is better to lower the car or raise it to the level it will move on wheels (or set it according to the dimensions set by the factory). My size turned out from floor level to the top of the arch 69 cm.

12. Precisely measure how the beam itself will be in relation to the fastening levers (he himself dragged the beam under the car twice). Better to mark the beam with levers with something.

13. Press s / b into a beam (using a hairpin). Options: press, vise, lathe (tailstock), which one has. I had a lathe.

14. We set the levers according to the marked marks, we slightly cash in on them for centering, and then we tighten them with a hairpin (we went like clockwork).

15. We smear the torsion bars (slots) with graphite, push through the s / b, fix the beam to a stationary state.

16. We call assistants, tighten the fastening levers relative to the plane of the beam by about 90 degrees. (the main thing is that the assistants pull them the same way), insert the torsion bars, fasten the balance beams.

17. We drag the beam under the car, fasten the levers, put the wheels, lower the car.

18. If the practical result of the height coincided with the theoretical one, then we assemble to the end (hit the first time), put stoppers, plugs, etc.

19. If not, then we take out the beam, change the angle of the torsion tension to the required result.

20. ABS brakes are pumped when the ignition is on.

21. The rule for 19 that when shifting to the torsion bar, the "ground clearance" decreases or increases by 3 mm - not true for Laguna /

That seems to be the whole story. I changed it a long time ago, I could have forgotten something. But in the course of the action, you can figure everything out. The final stage - three of us for a beer

.

You can discuss the article on the forum - Replacing the beam silent blocks.

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The story of the owner of Renault Kangoo (1st generation) - observation. Upstairs. Renault Kangoo My Monochrome Friend ›Logbook› Rear torsion beam - cargo - analysis.

In our case, the silent blocks were changed on a Renault kangoo D55 typewriter with an F8Q engine, but the replacement principle is the same for all cars with a rear suspension of this type. Beam.

The whole truth about Renault Kangoo (Renault Kangoo) - Duration: DOUBLE TEST DRIVE 110 386 views. Rear beam bushing Lanos Sens replacement No. 19 - Duration: LYOSHA MASTER 106 442 views.

V-ribbed belt JD Renault Kangoo, Mitsubishi Delica Star Wagon, Renault Laguna.But oddly enough, the torsion bars do not come out. Operational questions, reviews of owners, advice on repair. Renault Laguna Renault Laguna. Renault Kangoo, Renault Logan, Renault Laguna.

Renault Kangoo Forum club Renault Kangoo. Operational questions, reviews of owners, advice on repair. Rear beam Pivetstvo KANGUVODOV. I have a problem with the rear beam, I got the problem a year ago with the car. According to the passed c-camber, the wheels are in divergence and wobbled a little.

Although it does not look visually. Specialists from the RENAULT service do not offer anything intelligible, and they do not want to poke around. They suggest changing the entire beam or car. Warmed, knocked out and on the machine. The bearing in the beam was changed in the service, the c-blocks were checked there, and in general they did not see anything suspicious. I treat all other sores myself or with the help of doctors from the service. Generally satisfied with the car. Can someone tell me how else to treat this ailment. Answer: Rear beam Do they do camber on the rear beam?

Are the ammorts all right? Find More Posts by blamax. Find More Posts by staxanovec. The bearing in the beam was changed in the service, to be treated. Find More Posts by boryasik. Answer: How to choose a rear beam from b. Answer: Rear beam The same idea, but I think that if the geometry of the body is violated, the rubber should not be eaten like that. One side is inside, the other is outside, or not? The same idea, but I think that if the geometry of the body is violated, the rubber should not be eaten like that. Answer: Rear beam Normal clearance, stuffing box pressed evenly.

Can turn to the officials. Just whether they will be poking around. In the private RENO service, they do not want to look for and fix extraordinary breakdowns, they are used to stupidly doing maintenance, the clientele is full, they do not bother with problem cars. Tomorrow I'll go to the city, I'll drop by. Help with the rear beam In general, the problem is this! Once I noticed that on the rear wheels I eat rubber myself, I am a razor, a mechanic, in general, with the technique I am on you! Further, after using Internet and any forums, I realized that my needle bearings in the beam were worn out.

The next day the bearings of the bushings were ordered. He took off the beam and went to Renault to replace the bearings, changed with me everything is OK! I'm happy to take the beam to my work and put it on and get the same picture! The wheels are like a house, you can't put your finger between the wheel and the arch.

Move the beam a little that is the stroke of the stabilizer if it does not fit into place! If the levers themselves move apart that on the slots sit on the beam, then yes, but how? Who has any ideas? Find More Posts by djmaxxflash. Answer: Help with the rear beam one torsion bar. The boldness of the font does NOT increase the number and speed of responses. Ah at the spruce, ah at the tree, ah at the spruce wolves. I kept turning a blind eye to you all the time, but if I catch someone for something, it will be his end!

Now I will figure it out properly and punish anyone! Find More Posts by Громов Сергей. Print version Send by e-mail. Search this thread:. Linear view Combined view Tree view BB codes Incl.

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