DIY vaz 2110 rear door repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear door of a VAZ 2110 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of the rear door of a VAZ 2110

NOTE
The door lock consists of an inner and an outer part. If the outer part is faulty, it can be replaced without removing the door trim. When replacing or repairing the interior of the lock, the door trim must be removed.

To do the job, a wrench with a replaceable Phillips tip is required.
Removing the rear door lock
1. Remove the inner trim from the rear door.
2. Remove the plastic wrap from the rear door.
3. Turn off the two fastening screws of the lock using a knob with a replaceable Phillips tip and remove the outer part of the lock.

4. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw that secures the bracket of the two-arm lever.

5. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws securing the inner handle for opening the door lock.

6. Disconnect from the door body a plastic clamp with an anti-noise foam gasket that holds the horizontal rod of the lock blocking.

12. We remove the inner part of the lock from the door together with the geared motor for controlling the central lock.

13. Before removing the lock, mark its position on the B-pillar (marker or felt-tip pen).
14. With a knob with a removable Phillips tip, unscrew the retainer pin (1) and the two fastening screws of the retainer (2). Remove the retainer.

NOTE
Shims can be installed under the retainer. They must be reinstalled during assembly.

Rear door lock installation
Install the door lock and all previously removed parts on the car in reverse order.

USEFUL ADVICE
It is convenient to put plastic tips on the ball pins of the lock levers using sliding pliers.

We install the lock lock according to the marks applied to the rack. If the door does not close well (for example, with a metal knock or you have to bang the door hard to close), adjust the lock.

Video (click to play).

Rear door lock adjustment
The rear door lock is adjustable in the same way as the front door lock.

useful tips for a motorist

On this site you will find a lot of useful and necessary information for the repair and maintenance of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars with your own hands.

Unlike other similar projects, which mainly copy materials from printed manuals, this site contains only original materials.

All instructions are presented visually from personal experience, using the so-called experimental car, which was purchased for this very purpose.

Installation of a hinge for a car door VAZ 2110

Car doors - like house doors should look nice and reliable, easy to open and close. Big troubles are connected with the sagging door, it is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but also inconvenient.
It can emit a creak or a dull knock; if it is not tightly closed, water will flow into the interior. One of the ways to eliminate defects is to replace the hinges on the doors of the VAZ 2110.
The article suggests that you familiarize yourself with the work with your own hands.

There are several reasons that affect the reliability of fixing the doors and their sagging:

Hinges and pins are badly worn out. The door of the vases began to close poorly, and when opening it, considerable effort must be made.
The mount has loosened, a metallic creak is heard when driving on an uneven road.
The conjugation of the door fixing elements was violated: the hinges were warped, cracks formed in the door body. This leads to uneven gaps and the appearance of water in the passenger compartment after rain.
The door was hit in an accident.
Installation or adjustment of doors is incorrect.

Tip: Before carrying out work, it is necessary to determine the cause of the sagging.

Why the door sags, a small test can help:

With both hands, you need to grasp the lower part of the door and check the vertical gap with slight loosening. Backlash of the VAZ 2110 door hinge is not allowed.
The door is wrapped around the top and bottom with your hands. Then you need to try to turn it out in the horizontal axis, the door should not move, the gap is not allowed.
A visual inspection of the fixation points on the VAZ 2110 car of the door hinges to the car body is done, the hinges of the sagging door are compared with the same elements of a serviceable one, the differences in them are determined and a conclusion is made.

After identifying the cause of the sagging, repairs can begin.
This could be:

When the door sags due to high wear on the hinge axis, it is necessary to replace the finger in the VAZ 2110 door hinge.
If the entire mechanism has traces of wear or depletion, then you need to replace the door hinge of the VAZ 2110 assembly, then the price will be less than installing several new parts at the same time with heavily worn elements.

After replacing the failed parts, it is imperative to adjust the position of the door.
For this:

Tip: To facilitate the adjustment procedure, it is better to remove the counterpart.

The door is closed and its best vertical position is visually determined.
If the door line runs parallel to the body, and the door itself is shifted down or up, it is necessary to slightly loosen the fixation of the upper and lower hinges, raise or lower the door. Then fix the position with the locking screw.
If the corner of the door, at which the end is equipped with a lock, is located slightly below the desired level, while the door hinges on the VAZ 2110 car are in good order, the lower hinge is unscrewed and the door position is aligned. To do this, thin metal plates or washers are placed under the loop itself, as shown in the photo.

Installing a washer to eliminate door slack

If the edge on which the door lock is located is strongly lifted up, then the fixation of the upper hinge is unscrewed, and the adjusting plates are placed under it.

The door can be leveled using a bolt.
For this:

Take a bolt the same size as your finger.
The element is laid with the head up on the lower door hinge from the inside so that the bolt hangs on the edge of the hinge.
The door closes neatly and the bolt is clamped inside the hinge.
The door closes slowly and the result looks.
The operation is repeated if necessary.

There is a repair manual for a door sagging after an increase in the gap between the doors and poor closing.
For this:

It is necessary to remove the door and disassemble its trim.
Make a longitudinal cut in the lower loop, for which a small grinder is used.
The rest of the finger is knocked out with a core.

Tip: When replacing a finger in the door hinges of a VAZ 2110, you can take a valve from a VAZ classic, which has no filling inside.

The valve should be cut to the same length as the hinge, leaving a seal at one end.
A new valve is inserted into the cut loop, while its thick end should remain on top.
Then the part is welded with an electrode. When welding, you need to pay attention to the free rotation of the finger.
The knot is finally cleaned with a grinder and painted.

The most reliable, but not the easiest way is to replace the door hinges on the VAZ 2110. Any option is chosen depending on the degree of wear of the hinges and the sagging of the door.

If you need to replace the hinge on the front door of the VAZ 2110, then in addition to dismantling the door, you also need to remove the front fender.
Then:

The workplace is being prepared, preferably a table that is covered with a soft cloth to preserve the paintwork. With a major overhaul, this is not necessary.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 door hinges begins by cutting off the old hinges at the base.
Rust is cleaned and removed from the place of installation of new hinges.
New hinges are screwed to the car body rack.
The door is installed in the opening.
Locks in the correct position relative to the body. In this case, you need to monitor the gaps along the threshold and between the roof and the adjacent door.
The door is pre-fixed by any method.
The wing is put in place.
Clearances are monitored.
The wing is removable.
The hinges are welded to the door.
All additional fixings are removed.
The correct installation of the doors is checked. To do this, you need to open and close them several times.

How the door hinges are replaced on the BA 2110 is clearly visible in the video.

The basic VAZ door lock, in principle, is a fairly reliable system, however, preconditions may arise for its replacement. In this case, it is better to replace it with a silent door lock.

At the same time, for most drivers, the revision of the VAZ 2110 silent locks is a matter of principle, because they strive to make the lock not just quiet, but practically inaudible. But first things first.

So, the need to replace the standard factory lock with a modified one arises in the following cases:

The door lock on the VAZ 2110 has the following device:

The outer part that everyone sees from the outside of the door;
Inner part (larva);
Lever arm;
Locking rods, as well as their tips;
Retaining bracket;
Latch, with which the lock is adjusted;
Handles - outside and inside;
Fixing screws. The device of the lock mechanism

Replacing, adjusting or repairing the lock involves removing it, for which the following actions should be performed:

Remove the upholstery from the front door where the lock is located;

Disconnect from the lock lever:
• Traction of the outer handle;
• Traction of the locking cylinder;

Disconnect the rod, remove the inner handle;

Remove the outer lock by unscrewing the two screws securing it;

Remove the inner lock together with two rods - the inner handle and the lock;

After removing the plastic holder from the locking rod, it must be disconnected from the lever;

Having removed the retaining clip, disconnect the outer handle pull from the lever;

If your repair involves replacing the rod end, then, when unscrewing it, be sure to count, remember or write down the number of revolutions you have made. It is necessary to twist new ones by the same number of revolutions, since with the help of these tips the length of the rods is adjusted;

When installing a new lock, all work should be done in reverse order.

Disconnect the rod from the outer handle of the lock.
Then we pry on the plastic rod holder and disconnect it from the door.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw securing the intermediate lock blocking lever.
Remove the inner handle and its pull.
Now, with the socket head, unscrew the glass guide fastening nut.

We take out the glass guide from the door niche.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the outer part of the lock. Take it off.

We take out the inner lock complete with rods from the door niche.
Remove the retaining bracket and disconnect the intermediate blocking rod from the lever.

Now remove the retaining bracket and disconnect the outer handle pull.
Carry out the necessary repairs, then carry out assembly and installation in reverse order. Upon completion of work, adjust the position of the outer lock and latch.

It is difficult to imagine a modern car without doors. It is through them that the driver and passengers gain access to the salon. At the same time, the path to the vehicle must be closed to unauthorized persons. This function is assigned to one of the door elements - the lock.

Long-term operation in different temperature conditions and frequent operation can lead to premature failure or maladjustment of some elements. In this case, the car locks may not fully cope with their functions, or even refuse to work at all. In such a situation, the motorist must take timely measures to set up and adjust the door lock. Otherwise, one day he himself may not get into his car.

The principle of operation and design of most locking devices installed on cars is practically the same. Of all the locks of the car, only the ignition lock has the greatest reliability. It is he who is the last to protect the car from theft after an intruder enters the passenger compartment. In turn, the doors have to withstand various mechanical influences from day to day, which inevitably lead to wear. At the same time, rarely any of the motorists normally take care of doors and locking devices.

What are the functions of the car doors? There are two of them - protective (preventing unauthorized persons from entering the cabin) and insulating (creating the tightness of the car, in order to avoid rain, wind, snow, cold, and so on).

To increase the service life, all metal parts of the doors must be treated with special anti-corrosion compounds. This avoids the untimely appearance of corrosion on the metal and its destruction.

As we have already said, door locks are one of the most critical components of a car. In the absence of signaling and remote control of the central lock, this element has to withstand constant loads. In order to prevent failure of the lock and ensure its high-quality operation, it is necessary to adjust it from time to time.

There can be several reasons for the malfunction of the lock - inaccurate handling of the lock (for example, rough turning the key), the effect of adverse natural influences, natural wear and tear (long-term operation of the car). In addition, when attempting to steal, the car lock system can also be violated. In such a situation, adjustment or complete replacement of the larva is often necessary.

To begin with, all adjustment work can be carried out without dismantling the door, which greatly simplifies the procedure. Therefore, choose any convenient place for setting up - the main thing is that there is enough light, as well as enough space to fully open the door and move around it normally. It is best if the adjustment is made in an open area.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

- first, make sure that the car doors close properly and nothing interferes with them. It often happens that the lock does not work precisely because of the incomplete entry of the door;

- if the doors do not close or it is necessary to apply excessive force to perform these actions, then loosen the fastening screws of the fixing element;

- after unscrewing the screws, slightly move the lock to the outside and tighten all the nuts tightly. Be careful not to distort the fixing structure;

- observe the process of closing the door. If at the moment of entering the “grooves” it seems to “bounce” upwards, then the latch should be lowered a little. After that, check the clarity of the closing again;

- if in the process of closing the door, on the contrary, is lowered, then it is advisable to unscrew the fixing element and lower it a little.

We do all this work for a reason. Adjustment of the lock largely depends on the position of the latch itself. In 90% of cases, such problems are solved precisely by correctly installing the above element. The locks themselves fail less often. If a breakdown does occur, then the only way out is to replace it.

There is a lock not only on the front doors of the car, but also on the trunk. If the luggage compartment lid begins to close loosely, does not close at all, or requires a lot of effort, then you cannot do without high-quality adjustment:

- remove the cover of the lock from the inside so that you can make adjustments and get to the fixing screws of the locking device;

- unscrew the fastening screws and move the lock in the required direction (left or right, up or down);

- check the quality of the work performed. Ideally, the lid should be closed from a light "pop" and a little effort on the part of the motorist.

Carry out the mentioned manipulations until the lock will clearly close and securely fix the tailgate. After completing the adjustment, make sure to tighten the fixing nut tightly;

- check that the latch and latch of the lock fit well with each other. If this does not happen, then the fixing bolts must be slightly loosened and the retainer must be shifted in any direction. In this case, you will have to act by eye;

- the final stage - the final check of the quality of closing the trunk. If everything is clear, then you can feel free to be proud of yourself. If not, then repeat the adjustment until the expected result is achieved;

- tighten all the bolts and treat the locks with silicone grease.

In the event of a malfunction of the lock itself in the door (for example, the key is not inserted, there is obvious mechanical damage), replace the larva. For this:

- Unscrew the rod from the cylinder with a screwdriver;

- dismantle the locking plate;

- take out the lock cylinder and put a new one;

Adjusting the lock on the VAZ-2110 will take you no more than 20-30 minutes. The result of the work is that all doors will clearly close from light effort, and the locks will perform their function. Good luck.

Everyone knows that Russian cars are a rattle, no exception, and a dozen. Some try to somehow deal with the creak and bounce in the cabin, and some make the music louder and do not pay attention to all this. If you belong to the first category of people, then this article may be useful to you.

Door cards are a constant source of irritation in the VAZ 2110 cabin. Cheap plastic together with unsuccessful fastenings in the form of caps make our ride more varied and interesting 🙂

How does the door trim hold up? Pistons are initially attached to door cards and then snapped into holes in the door.
If the caps with door upholstery had a rigid hitch, then there would be less squeaks. Here in the picture I tried to show why the caps do not sit rigidly on the door trim.

How to deal with the backlash of the door trim?
How to make her sit firmly and not shake on the bumps?
How to get rid of the squeak and chatter of door upholstery?
Why don't the upholstery creak on foreign cars, like on Russian cars?

The thing is that on foreign cars, door trims DO NOT touch the door itself. In addition, the quality of the plastic is much higher, which is also important. All ingenious is simple.

Well, since the door upholstery on the VAZ 2110 touches the metal part of the door, then different scripts occur.
In order for the door upholstery not to creak, you need to make all contacts through an antiskrip (for example, modelin). That is, you have a large field for imagination, because not only upholstery with the metal of the door is in contact, but also clips with cards and clips with metal.
I will write on the shelves how to do it all with your own hands:

Eliminate the creak of the upholstery with the metal of the door
To do this, along the contour of the back side of the door trims, you need to stick a thin strip of anti-squeak (I indicated with a red line).
From above, you can make a strip thicker so that the velvet tape does not creak, but glued along the edges so that it would be exactly along the edge and would not crawl out behind them (otherwise, after installation, an antiskrip will be visible)

Eliminate the creak of clips with the metal of the door

We glue the antiskrip around the holes for the clips.

We remove the bounce of the clips on the door cards

So that the clips do not hang out on the door upholstery, you can stick an antiskrip on the clip attachment area.

You can try to install rubber washers between the piston and the seat on the upholstery, as the Samarovods do.

Thus, the clip will sit firmly in the seat and will not dangle like a G * clearly in the hole 🙂

Installation of alternative clips for door trims
How else can you get rid of the creak of the VAZ 2110 skins: for example, they sell alternative pistons for fastening VAZ 2110 door cards
In the picture: the first is the usual VAZ 2110 pistons, the second and third are alternative (like Euros they also call them) pistons.

Alternative caps are composite. The orange part is attached to the hole in the door, and the white part to the door trim. and snaps into place.
To be honest, such caps do not inspire confidence in me, because the white part is the same as that of ordinary caps and will also dangle.

You can try VAG pistons (6Q0 868 243). I have not found such in stores 🙁

You can use clips from Priora to fasten the door trims of the VAZ 2110, but the meaning does not change. That is, if the clip is loose, it must be rigidly fixed.

Yes, it sounds very scary at first and it seems that this is a terrible collective farm 🙂 But in fact, not everything is as scary as it seems.

When using self-tapping screws to secure door cards, consider:

Self-tapping screws should be with a small pitch. (with a large step - for wood, with a small step for metal)
There should not be many screws. (it is enough to fix the upholstery in the corners and somewhere in the middle)
The locations of the screws must be different from the places where the caps are attached (otherwise you will split the caps inside the door with a self-tapping screw)
Self-tapping screws must be closed with decorative plugs.
Self-tapping screws must be used of different lengths, depending on their attachment points (at the top of the upholstery are the longest, at the bottom are the shortest). That is, so that the self-tapping screw is no more than 5mm into the metal. Otherwise, you will scratch the glass

Self-tapping plugs can be purchased to match any color, the main thing is that they fit your self-tapping screws.
If there are no plugs to match the color of the upholstery, then you can paint them with paint or use a marker. The figure shows self-tapping screws with a small and large pitch.

I used screws of different sizes depending on the attachment points. Above and sideways (near the castle) are the longest, below and sideways (where the column is) there are short. Measured sizes 5cm, 4cm, 3.5cm and 3cm.

Technology:
I did not make holes in advance for self-tapping screws in the metal. Without removing the door trim, I marked the place on and screwed in the self-tapping screw.
If the self-tapping screw is for metal (with a small step), then it is enough to make an effort and make a couple of turns and it will go into the metal, like into oil.
So that the self-tapping screw is not too long at the moment when it just touches the metal, it should protrude from the upholstery by no more than 5mm. Then its length will be optimal.
That is, spend no more than 10 minutes on such fastening of door trim with self-tapping screws.
The edge was fixed with three screws.
The top of the upholstery by two.

Below, where it is not visible, you can not use the plug at all. Sorry for the awful rusty look 🙁

If there is a small gap between the upholstery and the plug, then you can remove it by drowning the self-tapping screw more strongly in the upholstery (for this, you can make a hole in the door trim for the screw a little wider), or use plugs that sit on the screw to the end.

On a regular door trim, fastening with self-tapping screws will look something like this.

Conclusion
The creaks of the door cards completely disappeared from me only after I glued all the contact points with an anti-creak and fixed the door trims with self-tapping screws. Without self-tapping screws, the creaks also disappeared, but for the time being. For a station wagon or a hatchback, you can also eliminate the bounce of the rear fifth door trim. For the best effect, it is recommended to insulate the interior as a whole.
Good luck in the fight against squeaks!

The rear door lock on a VAZ 2110 car is removed for its replacement or repair, as well as when performing various works, when its presence will interfere with the course of their implementation. Prepare a standard set of tools and follow the steps below:

Remove the decorative door trim.

Disconnect the rod from the outer handle of the lock.
Then we pry on the plastic rod holder and disconnect it from the door.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw securing the intermediate lock blocking lever.
Remove the inner handle and its pull.
Now, with the socket head, unscrew the glass guide fastening nut.

We take out the glass guide from the door niche.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the outer part of the lock. Take it off.

We take out the inner lock complete with rods from the door niche.
Remove the retaining bracket and disconnect the intermediate blocking rod from the lever.

Now remove the retaining bracket and disconnect the outer handle pull.
Carry out the necessary repairs, then carry out assembly and installation in reverse order. Upon completion of work, adjust the position of the outer lock and latch.

Very often situations arise when you need to remove the door trim of the VAZ 2110. Either in order to install noise insulation, or to see why the window lifter does not work, or to install a column in the car door. So, in this article I want to show you how to do it quickly and without much difficulty.

I must say right away that this action is very simple, and besides, you will not need mountains of tools. Prepare only a knife (or flathead screwdriver) and a Phillips screwdriver. Immediately I want to warn you that it is advisable to buy new clips for the door trim, since they can break when the trim is removed. Moreover, if you have already decided to remove the door cards, it would not be bad to work on eliminating their squeak. You can read how to do this here.

How to remove the door trim of the VAZ 2110? First of all, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the plastic pocket at the bottom of the door trim. It is held by 3 self-tapping screws.

Pull the bottom of the pocket slightly towards ourselves, and lower the top down, thereby, the plastic comes out of the casing slots. Debugging it aside.
If you do not have power windows, but ordinary ones, then at this stage you need to remove the power window handles. To do this, we pry the retaining ring under the handle itself. Remove the handle and remove the plastic ring. As in the photo.

Next, you need to remove the door opening handle. It is held in place with just two bolts. But these bolts are covered with a plastic cover. It can be removed by prying it with a knife or a thin screwdriver. I advise you to wrap a knife or screwdriver in a cloth, as the thickness of this lining is very small and it is easy to break or spoil it with a metal object. Therefore, we do this procedure very carefully and leisurely.

Now you can unscrew a couple of bolts securing the door handle.

When the bolts are unscrewed, you need to remove this handle. Pull the left edge towards you and remove the right edge from the slot in the trim. Then rotate the handle 90 degrees to the right to release it from the door opener.

Now you need to unscrew the plastic bolt to block the door closing. In principle, it can be easily unscrewed with your fingers, but if it does not work, then use a Phillips screwdriver. Having unscrewed, we remove it to the side, together with it we remove the plastic cover on it (I have it in red).

If you have speakers in the doorway, then unscrew their fasteners (usually they are fastened with 4 self-tapping screws). When they are unscrewed - take them out and disconnect a couple of wires connected to them.
Well, here we are prepared for removing the door trim of the VAZ 2110. Next, we pry the bottom edge of the door card and try to rip it off the clip.

When one edge is ripped off, you can gently walk further in a circle. For convenience, the photo below shows the places where the trim is attached to the metal frame of the door with clips. The first photo is the front door, the second photo is the back door.

When the door sheathing card is torn off from all the clips, raise its bottom, and remove it from the top from the bolt pull.

Video (click to play).

This completes the removal of the door trim of the VAZ 2110. Now you can perform the actions for which you eaten it. Before installing the door card back, replace the broken clips with new ones. The door trim is installed in the reverse order.

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