DIY rear suspension repair ford focus 2

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear suspension Ford Focus 2 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Rear suspension repair Ford Focus 2: is it all that difficult or simple?
The word "repair" can plunge many motorists into a decent shock - everyone knows the prices set by car repair shops for replacing parts. However, two factors will be good news:
Ford vehicles are distinguished by the durability of their parts and indispensable quality;
by design features (ease of assembly and disassembly), it is permissible to replace Ford parts by yourself.

4 levers: one longitudinal, one upper and two lower: front and rear;

shock absorber;
stretcher;
anti-roll bar;
adjusting bolt;
brake shield;
silent block belonging to the trailing arm;
springs.

Rear suspension for Ford Focus

The most vulnerable part of the rear suspension of a Ford Focus is the silent blocks.
When is it worth picking up and sorting out the rear suspension of the Ford Focus 2?

Rear Suspension Repair Parts

First of all, it is worth noting the quality with which the car manufacturers approached during the assembly of their cars: the rear suspension parts are more than others characterized by their durability and reliability. However, even the strongest, sooner or later, will need either the repair of the component parts, or a complete replacement.

Rear stabilizers often need to be changed

Most of the suspension parts, on average, can withstand a mileage of 120-130 thousand km - a great value, one cannot but agree with this. As a warning and recommendation, we note that you should "climb under the car" only in the following cases:
the appearance of a specific knock in the rear suspension of your Ford Focus 2, a squeak, a hum (it is necessary to emphasize what is called), emanating from the rear suspension;
the car "passed" the prescribed 20,000 km, after which the manufacturer recommends a superficial inspection of the condition of the suspension parts;
the vehicle has landed in a deep hole or has been hit hard enough in some way to the suspension.

Video (click to play).

Bad road leads to suspension breakage

Check the condition of the suspension, preferably on a flyover or pit to facilitate access to all suspension elements of your Focus. In the most extreme case, a conventional jack, alternately installed under each wheel, can be an acceptable alternative. And check the front suspension.

Checking the rear suspension for one hundred.

After lifting the wheel some distance from the ground for free rotation, spin it by hand. The wheel should rotate evenly and soundlessly (meaning, with the absence of extraneous tasks and squeaks).

After making sure of the integrity, then you should grab the wheel from above and below, then pull on one side "towards yourself" and on the other - vice versa. With this manipulation, again, there should be no appearance of extraneous sounds or backlash. If there are any, press the brake, repeat the above operation and observe. If the problem disappears, then the problem lies in the bearings. Otherwise, we continue the journey through the suspension.

Ford 2 Rear Suspension Bearing Replacement

How to replace rear pads ford focus 2.

Rear hub Ford Focus 2

Replacing the rear hub with bearing

Next, you should check the ball joints by squeezing the space between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm with a screwdriver.In case of backlash observation, we replace the support. A cracked cover, if any, is also removed and replaced.
Moving on to the anti-roll bars of the rear suspension of the Ford Focus 2. For a correct analysis, it is required to move the ball joints. We observe a backlash - we got caught: we change the shock absorber strut, in case of a negative result, we continue our "journey". Everything is subject to inspection: springs, bushings, even cushions and shock absorbers.

we tighten the spring with shock absorber ties

Also, an important point should be to check the oil level in the shock absorber, as well as its possible leaks.
Such part of the repair as the camber of the rear suspension of your Ford Focus 2 is strongly recommended, nevertheless, but to be carried out in auto repair shops. It is unlikely that you have a device "at hand" that can determine the discrepancy in degrees.
Self-replacement of the silent block of the rear suspension Ford Focus 2

Replacing rear traction silent blocks Ford Focus

The slightest thought about the need to devote a whole day to car repairs leads a number of motorists to a slight shock. They will prefer to go to the nearest and not very service station, where friendly and caring auto mechanics will carry out all the work on the replacement or repair of car components. However, having learned in advance the cost of such services, the desire to get down to business on their own will literally grow exponentially. In addition, all the same kind mechanics will almost certainly try to assure you on the quiet that not only some kind of silent block is subject to replacement in your car, but almost the entire rear suspension.

You should not scare and declare the impossibility of carrying out repair work related to the rear suspension, at least on the basis that such information would be a complete lie. You will need only N-th number of hours (usually, with the correct position of the hands relative to the fifth point, the whole operation takes about 3-6 hours) and the part itself that needs to be replaced. A set of silent blocks for the rear suspension of a Ford Focus 2 can be easily purchased at any car dealership. Tools for the job, of course.And so, let's start: in any convenient way we raise the rear axle of the car, then either we remove the spring, or, in order to avoid unnecessary physical exertion, we tighten the spring with ordinary ties. A support is installed under the main lever, then proceed to unscrewing the bolt securing the spring-loaded lever. Finally, we take out the spring / springs of the rear suspension of your favorite Ford Focus 2 and move the lever down. Image - DIY rear suspension repair ford focus 2

shock absorbers and springs for ford focus

One of the last steps will be to unscrew the two wishbones and the shock absorber. Along the way, we unhook the parking brake cable and then get rid of the bolt that secures the wires going to the ABS sensor. Now we disconnect the sensor terminal and then unscrew the bolts (the rear suspension bolts of the Ford Focus 2 are not distinguished by their plurality, which greatly facilitates the process) holding the wishbone. Finally, remove the silent block.

Replacing the salon block Ford Focus 2

Along the way, after disconnecting the wishbone, it is possible to independently replace the upper and lower arms.
Having obtained the long-awaited block, you are unlikely to find the time to rejoice.

The last step is to squeeze the silencer out of the socket in which it is located and the connection is very strong, by the way. There are two options for solving the problem: 1) we are taking it to a car repair shop, paying only for pressing; 2) we make a glass-like tool having a depth of 60 mm, a height of 70 and an outer with an inner one, diameters of 58 and 35, respectively, with which we squeeze out the silent block.
Immediately I would like to warn about the need to press out the silent blocks from the rear suspension arms of your

Ford Focus (despite multiple videos) replacement of silent blocks (polyurethane)

exclusively in auto repair shops, or with special equipment - no knocking out with a hammer and a sledgehammer, no barbarism! Where hundreds of motorists allegedly went through this process "with a bang", it is on you that the "wedge" can converge.The installation of a new unit is carried out in a similar manner to pressing out, then assembly is carried out in full observance of the reverse sequence of operations.Unlike the cheaper models, the second generation Ford Focus rear suspension has a modern, complex design. This is a multi-wishbone system that provides independent suspension of the rear wheels. Thanks to this suspension scheme, the car received a soft comfortable ride, good lateral and longitudinal stability. But, as you know, the more parts in the system, the more difficult it is to repair. How the rear suspension of the Ford Focus is arranged and what is the algorithm for replacing the rear silent blocks of the rear levers, how to choose the right ones instead of the original, we will figure it out today.

The rest of the silent blocks are changed according to the same method on the completely removed levers. The assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Soft and quiet suspension for all and vivid travel impressions!

The rear suspension, installed on the second generation Ford Focus, has a multi-link design, due to this, a smooth ride of the car and confident behavior of the car on the road are achieved. Image - DIY rear suspension repair ford focus 2

Rear suspension Ford Focus-2 - independent type, with a cross member in the middle, with four levers at each rear wheel (total levers - 8). The undercarriage consists of the following elements:

crossbars;
levers - rear lower, upper, front lower, longitudinal;
springs;
shock absorbers;
compression buffers.

All elements, except for the cross beam, are paired, and an anti-roll bar with struts and bushings is also installed on the rear axle.

The Ford Focus-2 was produced in two body modifications - in a pre-styling version (2005-2008) and in a restyled version (2008-2011). After the modernization, there were some changes in the car, but the restyling did not touch the rear suspension - it remained the same.

In the domestic market, the overwhelming majority of Ford Focus-2 are only assembled in Russia, so it is difficult to talk about the quality of spare parts installed on cars assembled in Spain and Germany. But the cars assembled in Vsevolozhsk near St. Petersburg are quite reliable, and the rear suspension lasts a long time during normal operation.

If you do not drive the car at high speed on bad roads, the chassis will require more or less serious repairs on the run of about 100 thousand km, not earlier. As a rule, the trailing arms are the first to fail, the silent blocks wear out in them. The lever can not be completely changed, you can do with repressing the silent blocks, but in order to make such a repair, it is necessary to disassemble almost the entire suspension.

Rear shock absorbers on the "Second Focus" are distinguished by enviable "vitality", on average, the parts are nursed from 90 to 130 thousand km. The price of original spare parts is rather big, each shock absorber costs about 3.5 thousand rubles. But fortunately, on the Focus-2 there are parts of non-original production, moreover, of very decent quality. For example, Monroe or Kayaba shock absorbers can be purchased at a price of 2-2.5 thousand rubles. for 1 piece, and TRW spare parts are even cheaper. Also, these parts are produced by many other companies:

The stabilizer struts are usually the first to fail on many car models, but on the Ford Focus 2, these parts are surprisingly tenacious, sometimes nursing more than 100 thousand km.

Car owners of "Second Focuses" need to know that many spare parts for the car are suitable from Mazda 3, in particular, many of the rear suspension parts are practically the same. True, there is one difference - native Ford spare parts are more reliable than Mazda spare parts, although they are more expensive.

If oil spots appeared in the area of the rear shock absorber rod, and the car began to drive over the bumps with the rear part of the body swaying, the shock absorber is out of order and must be changed. We carry out the work as follows:

for convenience, remove the rear wheel;
we put an emphasis under the rear suspension (for example, an old unnecessary wheel disk), and we lower the car a little on a jack - it is necessary to make sure that the spring of the suspension compresses a little;
this is done so that when the shock absorber is removed, the spring does not straighten without load and does not shoot up;
we unscrew the lower bolt that holds the shock absorber, this will require a knob with a 15-inch head;
from the body (inside the wheel arch) we unscrew the two bolts securing the shock absorber support to the body, here you need a 10 socket wrench or a head with an extension and a crank;
dismantle the part to be replaced, install a new shock absorber in place, and assemble.

If there is a knock in the rear suspension area, it is likely that the stabilizer struts are worn out. Changing parts is quite simple, if there are no complications during removal, you can replace the stabilizer rack in half an hour or even faster.

It is convenient to replace it on a pit or on a lift; you do not need to remove the wheel to perform the operation. We carry out the work in the following order:

unscrew the nut with which the rack is attached to the wishbone, for this you need a 15 spanner spanner. To prevent the rack from turning along the axis when unscrewing the nut, hold it with a hexagon;
then with the same keys we unscrew the upper nut that holds the rack on the transverse arm;
having unscrewed the fasteners, we remove the old part, install a new one, this can be considered the work finished.

Everything was simple, but the old counter does not always turn away normally. The thread on the ball pin is clogged with dirt, and when you try to unscrew the nut, the hex wrench turns in the body of the pin. Before starting to untwist the connection, you must:

clean the threads on the stabilizer post from dirt;
sprinkle WD40 on it;
wait 15-20 minutes for the remaining dirt to "eat off".

Only then should you start loosening the nuts. If, nevertheless, the ball pin scrolls in the body, and the nut turns with it, you will have to use a small grinder - cut off the worn out stabilizer bar.

In this case, the replacement of the L-shaped stabilizer struts is considered, but stabilizer struts of the so-called "direct" type can also be installed on the Ford Focus-2.

These details change even easier, there are practically no complications here.

Links to parts of the Ford Focus 2 suspension overhaul series.

Well, now I found the time to write the next part of the series of articles "Overhaul of the Focus 2 suspension".

The topic of this section will be "Replacing Rear Suspension Arms".

Exposing the camber is a mandatory procedure after replacing the spring-loaded levers.

It is advisable to do the work together.

Let me first make a small but important digression on the topic of the choice of spring arms.

The spring-loaded rear suspension arms on the Ford Focus 2 are of 2 types:

1) curved levers (I have just such, the stabilizer struts on them are in the shape of the letter G) (absolutely no analogues were found)

2) straight levers (the levers themselves are straight, the stabilizer struts are also straight) (there are analogues of Mayle - it is possible to buy a set of all rear levers at once - I can not say anything about the quality)

ATTENTION ! If you buy the wrong levers, neither a stabilizer nor stabilizer struts will work. (there were people who managed to screw straight levers to replace the old curves with curved stub struts, which were screwed just at crazy angles - there is no question of normal functioning).

IMPORTANT ! Breakup bolts, nuts and washers must be bought from the same manufacturer (different threads from Ford and Mazda are exactly 100%). It is better to buy new ones so that there are no problems with the camber setting. p / s breakup bolts, etc. from Ford are 2 times more expensive and it is not a fact that it is better.

90% of cases of replacement of levers - stratification of silent blocks. Some want to save money - buy only silent tires and repress them, but this will not lead to anything good, because it will not be possible to press them into the steel levers normally, as a result they will start to fall out - you will try to grab them by welding, which can ruin the silent itself ...

one.Spring-loaded rear suspension arm Ford - 1 548 460 - 3200r * 2pcs (curved levers only original)

2. Suspension arm, rear transverse lower Ford - 1 703 145 - 1346r * 2pcs (finish from focus3, finish from ff2 1061668 is 2 times more expensive - as usual in Ford style)

3. Breakup bolt Mazda - BP4K-28-66ZB - 271r * 2 pcs.

4. Eccentric washer Mazda - BP4K-28-473A - 133r * 2pcs

5. Nut Mazda - 9YB1-01-209 - 170r * 2pcs

In addition to keys and ratchets with heads, it is advisable to buy:

1. Gas burner (about 500r) - I have both bolts of the lower levers completely stuck to the silencers - I had to melt the silencers on the old levers with a burner to pull them out, 1 spray was enough.

2. Ceramic grease - to lubricate the new bolts in order to avoid subsequent problems with souring and sticking (for a long time and for yourself it is better to lubricate), (I think copper will also ride).

3. You must have 2 jacks (2 rolling jacks are generally cool)

4. WD-40, of course, what kind of repair without it.

I will not describe the complete process, because there is a lot of information on the Internet, consider the most important points:

1. Replacement of levers is carried out alternately on 2 sides with jacking up the machine and removing the wheel.

(it is better to jack it higher so that the 2nd jack then crawls under the lever)

2. First, unscrew the stabilizer bar bolt from the stabilizer side, then the spring levers are removed first of all from the wheel side, before pulling out the bolt, you need to jack the lever so that the spring does not fire if you still manage to pull the bolt out. After you have pulled out the bolt from the side of the wheel, you will need a 2nd person: 1 holds the lower part of the lever, the second removes the jack, 1 gently lowers the lever down until the spring is completely relaxed, after which the spring is pulled out and the breakup bolt is unscrewed, the lever is removed completely.

3. The lower wishbones most likely cannot be unscrewed - for this we need a gas burner, with which we diligently melt the silent parts that have become attached to the bolts. (Be careful with the burner - do not melt the wires and hoses, do not ignite anything).

4.! IMPORTANT! The spring has plastic spacers at the top and bottom. The upper gasket may fall off when the spring is removed, the lower gasket remains 100% in the old levers, and naturally these gaskets need to be rearranged into the new levers.

5. Be sure to lubricate all the bolts so that in a couple of years you will not have problems with the collapse of the rear, and indeed with loosening them if necessary.

6. Do not forget to rearrange the rubber bumpers from the old levers (new ones cost about 400r / pc, it makes no sense to buy)

I did not change the crescent upper wishbones. with them, everything is fine with the silencers, apparently due to much lower loads.

The replacement time took about 3 hours (everyone will have it differently depending on how quickly all the bolts can be unscrewed).

rear suspension: levers, silent blocks, stabilizer struts

1,357,317 (sedan, hatch), 1,357,319 (wagon)

Levers from Focus-2 have a subtle, but still quite important feature - they have a hole for screwing the stabilizer reinforced with a welded pad (a hole in the middle of the lever). Not one replacement issued by Exist has this overlay, therefore, the applicability is indicated only for Focus-1. You can put it on, but you can either weld on the reinforcement, or more often watch for the appearance of cracks from this hole.
Levers from both generations are "bent" and "straight", depending on the type of stabilizer. They are not interchangeable without redesigning the stabilizer.
(a source)

Breakup bolts:
breakup bolt - Ford 1456980 (in 12 we went with a nut and washer, now people buy and there is only one bolt)
eccentric washer - Ford 1456979
nut - Ford 1471745
Replacements:
breakup bolt - Mazda BP4K-28-66ZB
eccentric washer - Mazda BP4K-28-473A
nut - Mazda 9YB1-01-209
(Ford nuts and washers are suitable only for Ford bolts, Mazda nuts and washers - only for Mazda bolts, photo of washers here )

suspension travel stop (bump stop on the lever) - Ford 1 227 616
spring side mounting bolt - Ford 1 471 980 (M12 x 75MM)
lower spring spacer - Ford 1 355 153
upper spring spacer - Ford 1 532 650

Lower wishbones (bones):

Ford - 1061668

Upper wishbones (sickles):

Ford - 1517403 (sedans)
Ford - 1448127 (station wagon)

Substitutions:
Lemforder 32008 01
TRW JTC 1446

Lever fasteners:
Rear lower spring arm outer bolt M12 x 75MM - 2 pcs. Ford 6699982
Rear wishbone bolt M12 x 65MM - 8 pcs. SWAG 50 92 9451

Lever kits:
for sedans and hatchbacks - Meyle 716 050 0039 / S> opc.meyle.com

For station wagons - Meyle 716 050 0042 / S> opc.meyle.com

Sickles differ. In station wagons, they are less curved so that they do not cling to the lower ones with a full trunk..
a source

Meyle 716 050 0039 / S - the spring-loaded levers have the same reinforcements in the form of welded plates
source1
source2

Silentblocks:
Front bushing of the rear trailing arm (aka eared, aka butterfly)

Ford - 1 304 124

replacements:
Lemforder 29794 01
Sidem 803900
Moog FD-SB-0191

fasteners:
Bolt M12 X 30MM - Ford 1 471 994

Stabilizer's pole:

Ford 1 335 548 - rear L-shaped (placed on the “curve” spring arm)

replacements:
Lemforder 32010 01
Moog FD-LS-3662
Sidem 3266
Rts 97-90610
NK 5112522

Ford 1 500 682 - rear straight, set of 2 pieces (from FF-2, placed on the “straight” spring-loaded lever FF-1)

replacements:
Ford 1 719 542 (from FF3, set of 2)
Sidem 67160
Vaico V25-0576

Ford 1 203 093, Ford 1 487 402 - rear straight (* native * from FF-1, here you can look at the development of levers from these struts)

replacements:
Lemforder 33482 01
TRW JTS 581
Moog FD-LS-0122
Mitsubishi 4056A052

Ford 1 073 249

replacements:
Lemforder 34054 01
Moog FD-SB-3659
Sidem 803905

Aleoka
Good day!
Please tell me the craftsmen who made the rear suspension for you.
And at the same time, how has she walked since then?
With admiration, Krbatov Pavel.

yeah, I think many will be interested to know what you have with the rear suspension after repair - still alive and in what condition. Please answer

I propose to throw here a brief generalized information on the repair of the rear suspension and then transfer it to the FAK. I could not find what I needed on the forum by searching, there are a lot of topics. I ask those who have information to give numbers for Europe and the United States for the original and good non-original parts for the rear suspension and a list of the most difficult work when replacing, work experience, prices, recommendations, the most frequent malfunctions and their elimination with "little blood".

The first ailment that I found in the rear suspension was the stabilizer struts (about 90 km) (knocking on irregularities)
their number by hi-drive Spain al3059 (middle rubber band of two halves), by Febi 19830 (middle rubber band whole. , two self-locking nuts and 8 bushings of the rear shock absorber from VAZ classics. With such racks, you can drive a week before the arrival of normal ones. Do not overtighten when replacing new ones. change simply if you lie behind a standing car.
When buying, do not confuse with the front stabilizer struts (MOOG numbers fdls0090 original 1004018 Feb 07989.

Then at 130 km there were found the severed silent blocks of the trailing arms of the rear suspension "butterfly". Manifestation - withdrawal and "steering" on all irregularities. An exist for constipation says that there are NO rear suspension bushings separately from the levers. The number of the “butterfly” silencer on febi is 22699. I haven’t changed it yet, I’m waiting for advice.

I sent a request for the fastener to the existential, received an answer, but I can not figure out which bolts are from where and where the original is strictly necessary and where is the mona and the replacement. HELP!

rear suspension bolts (all) 1
Comment: 1085807 - 2 pcs., 1136651 - 8 pcs., 1138527 - 4 pcs. 7137633-2 pcs., 1074695-4 pcs., 1138528-2 pcs.

rear suspension nuts (all) 1
Comments: 1 144582-2 pcs., 1061588-4 pcs., 1070175-2 pcs., 6708755-2 pcs., 6568285-2 pcs.

American version - original:
Upper arm YS4Z-5500-AA ("rocker")
Front lower arm YS4Z 5500-DA ("bone")
Rear lower lever YS4Z 5500-CC (the one in which the spring is installed)
YS4Z 5A968-BA
Lever rear right longitudinal YS4Z-5A968-AA and 4S4Z 5A968-AC.
Lever rear left longitudinal YS4Z-5A969-AA and 4S4Z 5A969-AC.
The bushing of the rear trailing arm - goes along the micro-roll with the lever.

European version - original:
Upper lever 1 136 072 ("rocker") - there is also a non-original, see existential
Front lower arm 1 061 668 ("bone") - there is also a non-original, see the existential
Rear lower arm 1 150 353, 1 064 128 (the one in which the spring is installed) - only the original, see existential
The bushing of the rear trailing arm 1 061 670 (“eared”) - there is also a non-original, see existential.

Europe and America are identical.

I was looking for a suspension, but I found a code for a rail, it may be useful to someone, by the way, replacements are also fought for a non-original and from only $ 600. code 1 124 082

rear transverse under the spring 1 064 128, analogue for ruvil 935259, there is also an analogue for mapko, beats by existential. I take from America because they are 95 new, the original is in stock

febi 24211 posterior transverse "bone" available 1500
935264 analogue for ruville, original 1 061 668. I decided to take ruville for 34 dollars

febi23047 in stock 1400, high drive CA1135 1100, original 1 061 659, ruvil 935258. This is a transverse sickle type I ordered the FD-TC-0951 Mug for 51

Round, the manufacturer breaks through the code. And lemfoerder, febi themselves produce almost nothing. Like a Ford. Their mark can be on the parts of many manufacturers.
Not bad moog swag lemfoerder febi ruville trw / lucas and some others. This is from personal experience. bosch hi-drive mapco had complaints.

strattec
non-original is different. and at a price lower than half / three times, one should not expect that they will be no worse than the original.

** added at 08:14
FASTENING INFORMATION VERY REQUIRED.
please lay out the experience on nuts and bolts. What to buy, what manufacturer, numbers, description, parameters, quantity. What can be replaced? So far, according to the non-original, I found only the rear breakup at 185 rubles. in the presence of febi.

1073249 - rear stabilizer bushings
1456980 - breakup bolt
1456979 - camber washer
1061588 - nut to the above bolt.
1136651 - bolt engaging the lever to the cross member
1064128 - lever (pear)

1061668 - "bone"
1061659 - "sickle" From: 15-08-1998 To: 19-08-2002
1329730 - "sickle" From: 18-08-2002
1061670 - rear knuckle silent block.
1074695 - bolt. catches the ears of the silencer. to something.
1136651 - bolt. what is catching on is not very clear, but, as a rule, it takes 8 pieces to replace the rear suspension on both sides.
3718080 - and the last one. attaches the trunnion to the steering knuckle, kmk. For a circle - 2 pieces.

** added at 11:24
12456 Febi code for breakup bolt, instead of 1 061 671 and
98AG5K978AA. bolt parameters 12x85x10.9

IgorGhia
ok, then you need to buy breakup, and the rest can be picked up from analogues to the domestic auto industry. Can I have parameters for the rest of the bolts?

breakup 1 061 671 will stand on wines WF0AXXWPDA1K55561?

rear suspension bolts and nuts collapse Ford 1 136 651 0 3 1-2 1 138 528
Comment:

bolts and nuts securing all of the above levers Ford 1 100 987 0 13 1-2

I'll go today for the breakup bolts of Febi.

The rest I want to buy (found on the form) 8pcs. 12X70 and 8pcs. 12Х80 with self-locking nuts

for the bones you need M12x70, for the spring arm M12x80.
+ two sabots per bolt and a self-locking nut,
there is one inconvenience - the native nuts are tacked by welding, and
the thread pitch with Zhiguli does not coincide, there step 1.5 is similar.
Those. you need to break off your relatives with a chisel.

I saw bolts in the gazelle store, so they seem to have the same step,
you can try them.

12456 code for a breakup bolt on Febi, instead of 1 061 671 bought yesterday. 370 RUB 2 pcs.

exist took off the ruvil. what to buy as leverage bones? original from america, moog or febi.

And most importantly: where in Moscow to sort out the suspension?
it is necessary that 1) on weekends 2) in my presence 3) not crooked people 4) not very expensive. WHERE TO GO?

exist took off the ruvil. what to buy as leverage bones? original from america, moog or febi.

And most importantly: where in Moscow to sort out the suspension?
it is necessary that 1) on weekends 2) in my presence 3) not crooked people 4) not very expensive. WHERE TO GO?

Buy a "bone" from America for $ 60 YS4Z-5500-DA

It is best to sort it out yourself, tools head 15 and a key and 2 goats to lift the back of the car, no one at the service will lick your suspension, if the bolts do not unscrew, they will cut it off with a grinder along with a welded nut, then your bolts will no longer be needed, so work in most services

When I changed it myself, the time is 4 hours slowly and a lot of pleasure from the work done
Yes, a jack is needed by rolling, it will be to put a spring

today replaced the front stabilizer bar. for 600 rubles. Febi X2 = 1200 rubles, I changed it myself. past moogs passed 30km and died. before that, the 1700 rubles stabilizer was put in place in the service. and replaced his bushings (300 rubles. both Febi). the muzzle subsided.

the existential leader could not bring the levers of the bone. had to buy the original from amerikosa as the rear small wishbones "bones".
In total, we have:
rear large transverse pears, in which the springs are abutted. original from America 2300 rubles. PC. X2 = 4600 rubles.
small posterior transverse bones, they are 1700 rubles. PC. X2 = 3400 rubles.
rear bent transverse mugs for 1500 rubles. PC. X2 = 3000 rubles.
in the longitudinal decided to zaprseovat new phoebe silent. for 600 rubles. X2 = 1200 rubles.
breakup bolts Febi (by the way with a Ford brand) 370rub. for 2 pcs.

Since the price of the friendly service, which I always went to when I was not able to do it myself and only to it, did not suit this time. Agreed on Sun. with orbit auto service.I haven't found reviews on it on the forum yet, so tomorrow I'll go test it myself and issue a report)
For information: Papillin Anton announced for work 3000-4000 how it will be unscrewed, but it does not work on the weekend, otherwise I would have gone to him, Sprint (GAE) they also requested an auto center for 6700, auto orbit service 4000-4600 will be unscrewed. tomorrow I'll go, unsubscribe. friendly service appreciated the work more than anyone else, therefore not to them.

in total it turned out on the rear suspension for w / h 4600 + 3400 + 3000 + 1200 + 370 = 12570 rubles. (I have new rear stub struts (febi), but in general, who will sort it out, it makes sense to change them too.)
Works 4600+ descent collapse 1200. Total 5800 rubles.
In total, the rear suspension bulkhead should actually fit into 18,500 rubles. excluding springs and shock absorbers. It seems to me that this is the minimum price.

Video (click to play).

By the way, the front bulkhead is cheaper. about 3000 each lever is assembled, 500 supports each, 500 stabilizer struts and works for 3000. total for about 12500 rubles. from the descent collapse.