Do-it-yourself rear suspension repair on a Kia seed

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today we have a 2011 KIA Ceed, the owner complains of unpleasant tapping in the rear of the car, the rear suspension was diagnosed, it turned out that these were rear camber levers. We will change them.

At the end of the breakup lever is a hinge through which the lever is attached to the knuckle. We take a pry bar, check for play, we have it, so there is also a knock. It is only necessary to check in this way when the suspension is unloaded; the machine must be “suspended”. This is the right lever, the left one was also checked, it is normal, but we will still change it.

Fastened with a castellated nut, which in turn is fixed with a cotter pin, unclench it and pull it out. Take the 17 key and unscrew the hinge nut (after soaking it in WD-40). Then we unscrew the nut of the adjusting bolt, the nut by 17, and the bolt itself by 19. In our case, everything sour, we had to use a gas burner and a perforator.

Video replacement of the rear wishbone, breakup rods in the KIA Ceed:

Reserve video replacement of breakup rods, rear wishbone in KIA Sid:

Front suspension: 1 - shock absorber rack; 2 - anti-roll bar; 3 - front suspension cross member; 4 - steering knuckle; 5 - ball bearing; b - front suspension arm

REAR SUSPENSION

Rear suspension: 1 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 2 - upper wishbone; 3 - lower transverse arm; 4 - rear suspension cross member; 5 - rear suspension spring; 6 - shock absorber; 7 - control lever; 8 - longitudinal lever; 9 - rear suspension fist

Video (click to play).

SPECIFICATIONS

Content of the report:
Replacement of breakup rods
Replacing the lower trunnion silent blocks with reinforced ones (not floating)
Increasing the clearance of the rear axle of the Kia Ceed using rubber spacers VAZ (classic) - photo attached
Replacing brake pads (front / rear) Hankook Frixa S1 / Frixa
Lubrication of the guide calipers with special Slipkote grease

Cider friends making beer and chips Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

... because the story will be devoid of time restrictions, but it will be full of photographs of the process and my conclusions.
Preamble.
In February 2013, we did find a live diesel engine with a real mileage of 65 tk.m. - Kia Ceed SW 1.6 CRDi 2008 onwards Replacing one front right stabilizer link, I successfully wound another 22 t.km. We managed to go skiing to Slovakia together with the new diesel Sid of our Kiev friends.
Slovakia 2013 - aquapark Besenova

And the ski resort in Jasna is a real relaxation, pleasure and active rest.

+ 3371 km.
During this time, there were no questions to the car at all! Judging by all the previous acts of maintenance from the officials, the car did not deliver any problems before, requiring only routine maintenance and repair.

b) the inner ring was knocked out of the front VAZ wheel bearing, which was 1 mm smaller in diameter than Sid's silent block. It perfectly suited the role of a spacer for pressing / pressing out silent blocks - the victim was found in the garage :)))

Next, we re-assemble our device with the known elements.
We twist the nut, making a decent effort. and we control the movement of the notch 8 mm - it should not go inside the bore.
In a few minutes the silent block will be pressed in.

Before installing the silentblock, the hole in the fist was wiped with a clean rag, a small layer of rust from the press-in side was cleaned with an iron brush.

That’s half done. It turned out that it is not difficult to press in / out the silent blocks. More time is spent on disassembling the suspension.
The installation of breakup rods is also not difficult. Carefully insert the hinge bolt into the clean hole (you can lubricate it a little) and screw on the crown nut, pulling it by hand until the moment of difficult rotation.
Attention. The new nut included with the camber link may be lower than the original! This is fraught with the fact that after tightening it, the cotter pin will be above the crown, and not between its teeth! Those. will not be able to prevent it from turning away!
My original nut was 2 mm higher than the one in the kit.
Then decide for yourself: either put a new nut with a washer, or just an old original one.

The next stage is the installation of rubber VAZ spacers on the Kia Ceed with minor modifications.
After rereading many topics in clubs, I still did not find a clearly described process for processing the spacer itself. I will try to fill this gap myself.
So, let's go to the Lada store Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

and ask you to show different rubber spacers for VAZ (classic). We choose a set, sort of like rubber products made at the Balakovo plant. The packaging is of high quality, and the spacers themselves do not cause negative reactions and rejection :)))).
The price of the issue is 50 UAH per set. Even if the experiment fails, it's not a pity.
The set includes two spacers for the right and left side.
We select the desired one and make a circular marking for the subsequent cutting of excess rubber. It is easier to make the initial marking with a caliper, and then point it with a pen.
Objective: To ensure a snug and correct fit in the arm.
We remove the native rubber molded inserts, but do not throw them away. just in case :)))
Then we take the grinder and calmly cut the rubber :). To take a photo, the grinder was pulled to the table with a clamp. In reality, a friend held it, and I twisted the spacer under the circle. This work takes 2-3 minutes.

Because the central part of the spacer is larger than the inner diameter of the spring, then it also needs to be turned to a wall thickness of about 4-5 mm.
The outer diameter of the lower part of the spacer completely coincides with the bore diameters in the lever! It is there that the spacer sits tightly without the slightest backlash.

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Here you go. everything is ready for further installation. Beauty is not needed here. main size. :)))))
Next, our spacer needs to be shoved into the spring. Honestly, it is not difficult to do this, but she herself does not want to stay there and is trying to wriggle out all the time, tk. the turned part is still larger in diameter than the inner diameter of the spring. This is done on purpose to maintain the holding rigidity of the rubber. If you make the wall thinner, then it will not really keep the spring from shifting.
To tighten the spacer, it is better to grab it with clamps.

Then we fix the lever on the side of the installed silent block and insert the spring into place. We look so that the spacer also sits in its place.
Now the most unpleasant and difficult moment is to combine the hole of the second silent block with two holes in the beam and get into them with the second bolt. The jack will help here, as well as the usual understanding of physical processes and kinematics. Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

And also - a pry bar and a powerful screwdriver.
In short, if your arms grow out of your shoulders, and from there - your head, then in 5-10 minutes the bolt will be in place.

Well, everything is assembled.
All nuts have been released! Tightening will take place after the car is on wheels! I hope everyone understands why this is so. Who does not understand, goes straight to the service station.
If you put the wheel, it will become visible - the spring has become more correct relative to the spacer itself. In reality, the lower end, which is located on the inner side of the lever, insures it from the displacement of the spring during the operation of the suspension. With a strong load, the spring cannot go anywhere at all.
So. finished with a spring.
Installing the shock absorber in reverse order. No photos are needed here.
When assembling, I processed all the bolts with cannon tallow, and then filled the nuts with Movil from a cylinder.
If you are not going to do anything else under the car, then we put the wheels, lower the car and completely tighten the bolts and nuts!
We tighten the breakup bolts according to the old marks on the washers.
We check everything again to sleep. no, ride - calmly.
.

Lubricate them with special grease Slipkote 211. With even spreading, it felt like thick honey on the fingers.
It should be so. The slideway grease is very thick and does not have a dropping point. Those. even with strong heating, it will be thermally stable and will not drain.
We put them back, checking the reliability of fixing the anthers. We repeat the procedure for the other side of the rear axle.
We pass the front axle.
Everything is just as simple here, so I see no point in describing the process again.

Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed


Removing the original worn brake pads and comparing them with the Frixa S1 revealed:
1) Frixa S1 has anti-squeak plates, but there is no additional spring plate (balancing, if you can call it that)
2) an additional spring plate, which provides the general mobility of the unit relative to the piston, is on old pads and it fits on the Frixa S1.
I lubricate the surface of the anti-creak plates, the edges of the pads and the spring plate with the same grease.
Lubricating the guides. I repeat the procedure for the second side.
I collect everything back. voila.
My legs are not mine. Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

I liked the brakes on the go. Effort metering has become much easier. The brake pedal has become clearer or something. more transparent. There is no sensation of a light “cola” with sharp braking 3-4 times.
There is no squeak either, but this is understandable .. everything is greased, the brake pads are new. (by the way, the old ones did not creak either)

Now the result of work on raising the rear axle of the car.
Probably everyone is waiting for a photo. You are welcome. The photo was taken 4 km after leaving the garage.
After a couple of days, the backside crouched a little, but very slightly.
Silence on the move! The rear axle is silent. Beauty!
It remains to do the convergence. but this is definitely not a topic for the report. Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

I hope my opus is useful to someone.
All family cars participate in the annual test of new tire models Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

... Our Ceed has already tried on a Bridgestone T001 this season, and a little later Marshal MU11. The turbo roach of the wife Fiat Gronde Punto 1.4t (150 hp) rides a Bridgestone MY-02.
Looking forward to winter, I think one of the new Bridgestone Blizzak VRX products will also appear in the family tire garage Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed.

To replace the floating silent block with a Kia Sid, you need to unscrew the nut and pull out the silencer bolt securing it to the lever. As well as a set of tools, a homemade puller and another new silent block, catalog number: 55130-4D000 or an updated silent block, catalog number: 552162H000FFF.

We install the car on stands, unscrew the silent block nut, place the jack under the lever, lift and remove the bolt. Raising it further so that the fist goes to the lower part of the lever, but does not load on it, we move the fist to the side, while it comes out of the flanges of the lever and raise it as much as possible to the side and up, - we substitute the previously prepared piece of bar under the wheel studs. Thus, the silent block is in sufficient free space, and the spring remains in the same state on the jack. Next, using a special puller, we press out-press in the new floating silent block Kia Ceed.

Since replacing the ball block of the rear lower arm of the Kia Sid is a rather difficult task and in this angle it is not very good to consider the principle of self-replacement of the hinge in the trunnion in the video, we suggest looking at another option for how you can change the floating silent block - VIDEO below in the comments.

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Even more useful tips in an easy-to-use format

Is it possible to change the rear floating paint block without pressing it out?

I am looking for the dimensions of the rear axle silentblock in Kia

The Ceed's suspension is relatively reliable and hassle-free. But. There are frequent complaints about knocking in the front and rear suspension.Moreover, the suspension can work out hard irregularities perfectly, and on small irregularities it can behave like an old "nine", reaching out to its owner. I had just such. I was at the diagnosis, complained about knocking in the rear suspension and in the front when the body was swinging. The diagnosticians first prescribed the replacement of the stabilizers and stabilizer bushings on the rear suspension and only replace the stabilizers on the front. Did not help. After the diagnosticians prescribed the replacement of the rear struts. Rear suspension knocking was lessened but not gone. Something continued to drum. The front still knocked when swinging.
I put the racks as follows:

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But these do not need to be set:

What was the answer. A lever is installed on the rear suspension, the full name is "Rear camber arm", its number is 55250-1H0000. The original costs from 1300, there are substitutes from 600 rubles.
An interesting point in diagnostics. I would recommend that you attend it and see how this lever is diagnosed. If you pull it towards yourself, then even the “killed” lever may not show it. The lever must be wobbled from side to side and not with your hands (!), But with a tire iron or something similar, only in this case it will give itself out.
Photo of the lever:

About the front suspension stabilizer bushings. Some services bled me for money, like replacing these bushings means removing the subframe. It's a bullshit. It is enough to remove the protection. In Chelyabinsk, a replacement costs about 350 rubles apiece. If you remove the stretcher, then 1500 rubles for everything. The number of the front stabilizer bushings is 54813-1H100, the number of the rear bushings is 55513-1H100. I took the original in a retail store - 150 rubles, in the Exist there is an original and 60 rubles each.
Posts on this topic: one and two.
In general, the recommendations for the suspension are as follows, if something rattles:
1.We find good diagnosticians and attend the diagnosis, please show all the defects.
2. We start small: first we change the stabilizer bushings, stabilizer struts and only after that we think about replacing the struts.

That's all! A post from the series can be useful to anyone. :)

PS: Feelings now from the car, like a new one :)

You will need: keys "12", key "19" (two), silent block remover.

1. Apply the parking brake to the vehicle and install chocks (“shoes”) under the front wheels.

2. Loosen the corresponding wheel nuts. Raise the back of the car and remove the wheel.

3. Install the spring compressor on the rear suspension spring.

5. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower control arm to the hinge of the rear axle knuckle.

6.. lower the lever down, remove the suspension spring together with its upper support washer (the rear suspension fist and trailing arms have been removed for clarity).

7. Remove the lower spring retainer washer from the lower wishbone.

8. Remove the nut of the bolt securing the lower wishbone to the rear suspension beam.

10. . and remove the lower wishbone from the vehicle.

11. Carefully inspect the lever and its silent block. Replace the deformed lever. Signs of wear on the silent block are tears, one-sided bulging and peeling of the rubber from the metal bushing. To replace the silent block, you need a puller of a suitable size.

12. Press a new silent block into the lever eyelet and install the lever and the rear suspension spring in the reverse order of removal.

Today we have a 2011 KIA Ceed, the owner complains of unpleasant tapping in the rear of the car, the rear suspension was diagnosed, it turned out that these were rear camber levers. We will change them.

At the end of the breakup lever is a hinge through which the lever is attached to the knuckle. We take a pry bar, check for play, we have it, so there is also a knock. It is only necessary to check in this way when the suspension is unloaded; the machine must be “suspended”. This is the right lever, the left one was also checked, it is normal, but we will still change it.

Fastened with a castellated nut, which in turn is fixed with a cotter pin, unclench it and pull it out. Take the 17 key and unscrew the hinge nut (after soaking it in WD-40). Then we unscrew the nut of the adjusting bolt, the nut by 17, and the bolt itself by 19. In our case, everything sour, we had to use a gas burner and a perforator.

Video replacement of the rear wishbone, breakup rods in the KIA Ceed:

Reserve video replacement of breakup rods, rear wishbone in KIA Sid: