Do-it-yourself rear suspension repair on a Kia seed

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today we have a 2011 KIA Ceed, the owner complains of unpleasant tapping in the rear of the car, the rear suspension was diagnosed, it turned out that these were rear camber levers. We will change them.

At the end of the breakup lever is a hinge through which the lever is attached to the knuckle. We take a pry bar, check for play, we have it, so there is also a knock. It is only necessary to check in this way when the suspension is unloaded; the machine must be “suspended”. This is the right lever, the left one was also checked, it is normal, but we will still change it.

Fastened with a castellated nut, which in turn is fixed with a cotter pin, unclench it and pull it out. Take the 17 key and unscrew the hinge nut (after soaking it in WD-40). Then we unscrew the nut of the adjusting bolt, the nut by 17, and the bolt itself by 19. In our case, everything sour, we had to use a gas burner and a perforator.

Video replacement of the rear wishbone, breakup rods in the KIA Ceed:

Reserve video replacement of breakup rods, rear wishbone in KIA Sid:

Front suspension: 1 - shock absorber rack; 2 - anti-roll bar; 3 - front suspension cross member; 4 - steering knuckle; 5 - ball bearing; b - front suspension arm

REAR SUSPENSION

Rear suspension: 1 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 2 - upper wishbone; 3 - lower transverse arm; 4 - rear suspension cross member; 5 - rear suspension spring; 6 - shock absorber; 7 - control lever; 8 - longitudinal lever; 9 - rear suspension fist

Video (click to play).

SPECIFICATIONS

Content of the report:
Replacement of breakup rods
Replacing the lower trunnion silent blocks with reinforced ones (not floating)
Increasing the clearance of the rear axle of the Kia Ceed using rubber spacers VAZ (classic) - photo attached
Replacing brake pads (front / rear) Hankook Frixa S1 / Frixa
Lubrication of the guide calipers with special Slipkote grease

Cider friends making beer and chips

... because the story will be devoid of time restrictions, but it will be full of photographs of the process and my conclusions.
Preamble.
In February 2013, we did find a live diesel engine with a real mileage of 65 tk.m. - Kia Ceed SW 1.6 CRDi 2008 onwards Replacing one front right stabilizer link, I successfully wound another 22 t.km. We managed to go skiing to Slovakia together with the new diesel Sid of our Kiev friends.
Slovakia 2013 - aquapark Besenova

And the ski resort in Jasna is a real relaxation, pleasure and active rest.

+ 3371 km.
During this time, there were no questions to the car at all! Judging by all the previous acts of maintenance from the officials, the car did not deliver any problems before, requiring only routine maintenance and repair.

b) the inner ring was knocked out of the front VAZ wheel bearing, which was 1 mm smaller in diameter than Sid's silent block. It perfectly suited the role of a spacer for pressing / pressing out silent blocks - the victim was found in the garage :)))

Next, we re-assemble our device with the known elements.
We twist the nut, making a decent effort. and we control the movement of the notch 8 mm - it should not go inside the bore.
In a few minutes the silent block will be pressed in.

Before installing the silentblock, the hole in the fist was wiped with a clean rag, a small layer of rust from the press-in side was cleaned with an iron brush.

That’s half done. It turned out that it is not difficult to press in / out the silent blocks. More time is spent on disassembling the suspension.
The installation of breakup rods is also not difficult. Carefully insert the hinge bolt into the clean hole (you can lubricate it a little) and screw on the crown nut, pulling it by hand until the moment of difficult rotation.
Attention. The new nut included with the camber link may be lower than the original! This is fraught with the fact that after tightening it, the cotter pin will be above the crown, and not between its teeth! Those. will not be able to prevent it from turning away!
My original nut was 2 mm higher than the one in the kit.
Then decide for yourself: either put a new nut with a washer, or just an old original one.

The next stage is the installation of rubber VAZ spacers on the Kia Ceed with minor modifications.
After rereading many topics in clubs, I still did not find a clearly described process for processing the spacer itself. I will try to fill this gap myself.
So, let's go to the Lada store

and ask you to show different rubber spacers for VAZ (classic). We choose a set, sort of like rubber products made at the Balakovo plant. The packaging is of high quality, and the spacers themselves do not cause negative reactions and rejection :)))).
The price of the issue is 50 UAH per set. Even if the experiment fails, it's not a pity.
The set includes two spacers for the right and left side.
We select the desired one and make a circular marking for the subsequent cutting of excess rubber. It is easier to make the initial marking with a caliper, and then point it with a pen.
Objective: To ensure a snug and correct fit in the arm.
We remove the native rubber molded inserts, but do not throw them away. just in case :)))
Then we take the grinder and calmly cut the rubber :). To take a photo, the grinder was pulled to the table with a clamp. In reality, a friend held it, and I twisted the spacer under the circle. This work takes 2-3 minutes.

Because the central part of the spacer is larger than the inner diameter of the spring, then it also needs to be turned to a wall thickness of about 4-5 mm.
The outer diameter of the lower part of the spacer completely coincides with the bore diameters in the lever! It is there that the spacer sits tightly without the slightest backlash.

Read also: DIY cerate cue repair

Here you go. everything is ready for further installation. Beauty is not needed here. main size. :)))))
Next, our spacer needs to be shoved into the spring. Honestly, it is not difficult to do this, but she herself does not want to stay there and is trying to wriggle out all the time, tk. the turned part is still larger in diameter than the inner diameter of the spring. This is done on purpose to maintain the holding rigidity of the rubber. If you make the wall thinner, then it will not really keep the spring from shifting.
To tighten the spacer, it is better to grab it with clamps.

Then we fix the lever on the side of the installed silent block and insert the spring into place. We look so that the spacer also sits in its place.
Now the most unpleasant and difficult moment is to combine the hole of the second silent block with two holes in the beam and get into them with the second bolt. The jack will help here, as well as the usual understanding of physical processes and kinematics.

And also - a pry bar and a powerful screwdriver.
In short, if your arms grow out of your shoulders, and from there - your head, then in 5-10 minutes the bolt will be in place.

Well, everything is assembled.
All nuts have been released! Tightening will take place after the car is on wheels! I hope everyone understands why this is so. Who does not understand, goes straight to the service station.
If you put the wheel, it will become visible - the spring has become more correct relative to the spacer itself. In reality, the lower end, which is located on the inner side of the lever, insures it from the displacement of the spring during the operation of the suspension. With a strong load, the spring cannot go anywhere at all.
So. finished with a spring.
Installing the shock absorber in reverse order. No photos are needed here.
When assembling, I processed all the bolts with cannon tallow, and then filled the nuts with Movil from a cylinder.
If you are not going to do anything else under the car, then we put the wheels, lower the car and completely tighten the bolts and nuts!
We tighten the breakup bolts according to the old marks on the washers.
We check everything again to sleep. no, ride - calmly.
.

Lubricate them with special grease Slipkote 211. With even spreading, it felt like thick honey on the fingers.
It should be so. The slideway grease is very thick and does not have a dropping point. Those. even with strong heating, it will be thermally stable and will not drain.
We put them back, checking the reliability of fixing the anthers. We repeat the procedure for the other side of the rear axle.
We pass the front axle.
Everything is just as simple here, so I see no point in describing the process again.

Removing the original worn brake pads and comparing them with the Frixa S1 revealed:
1) Frixa S1 has anti-squeak plates, but there is no additional spring plate (balancing, if you can call it that)
2) an additional spring plate, which provides the general mobility of the unit relative to the piston, is on old pads and it fits on the Frixa S1.
I lubricate the surface of the anti-creak plates, the edges of the pads and the spring plate with the same grease.
Lubricating the guides. I repeat the procedure for the second side.
I collect everything back. voila.
My legs are not mine.

Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

I liked the brakes on the go. Effort metering has become much easier. The brake pedal has become clearer or something. more transparent. There is no sensation of a light “cola” with sharp braking 3-4 times.
There is no squeak either, but this is understandable .. everything is greased, the brake pads are new. (by the way, the old ones did not creak either)

Now the result of work on raising the rear axle of the car.
Probably everyone is waiting for a photo. You are welcome. The photo was taken 4 km after leaving the garage.
After a couple of days, the backside crouched a little, but very slightly.
Silence on the move! The rear axle is silent. Beauty!
It remains to do the convergence. but this is definitely not a topic for the report.

I hope my opus is useful to someone.
All family cars participate in the annual test of new tire models

... Our Ceed has already tried on a Bridgestone T001 this season, and a little later Marshal MU11. The turbo roach of the wife Fiat Gronde Punto 1.4t (150 hp) rides a Bridgestone MY-02.
Looking forward to winter, I think one of the new Bridgestone Blizzak VRX products will also appear in the family tire garage

To replace the floating silent block with a Kia Sid, you need to unscrew the nut and pull out the silencer bolt securing it to the lever. As well as a set of tools, a homemade puller and another new silent block, catalog number: 55130-4D000 or an updated silent block, catalog number: 552162H000FFF.

We install the car on stands, unscrew the silent block nut, place the jack under the lever, lift and remove the bolt. Raising it further so that the fist goes to the lower part of the lever, but does not load on it, we move the fist to the side, while it comes out of the flanges of the lever and raise it as much as possible to the side and up, - we substitute the previously prepared piece of bar under the wheel studs. Thus, the silent block is in sufficient free space, and the spring remains in the same state on the jack. Next, using a special puller, we press out-press in the new floating silent block Kia Ceed.

Since replacing the ball block of the rear lower arm of the Kia Sid is a rather difficult task and in this angle it is not very good to consider the principle of self-replacement of the hinge in the trunnion in the video, we suggest looking at another option for how you can change the floating silent block - VIDEO below in the comments.

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Even more useful tips in an easy-to-use format

Is it possible to change the rear floating paint block without pressing it out?

I am looking for the dimensions of the rear axle silentblock in Kia

The Ceed's suspension is relatively reliable and hassle-free. But. There are frequent complaints about knocking in the front and rear suspension.Moreover, the suspension can work out hard irregularities perfectly, and on small irregularities it can behave like an old "nine", reaching out to its owner. I had just such. I was at the diagnosis, complained about knocking in the rear suspension and in the front when the body was swinging. The diagnosticians first prescribed the replacement of the stabilizers and stabilizer bushings on the rear suspension and only replace the stabilizers on the front. Did not help. After the diagnosticians prescribed the replacement of the rear struts. Rear suspension knocking was lessened but not gone. Something continued to drum. The front still knocked when swinging.
I put the racks as follows:

But these do not need to be set:

What was the answer. A lever is installed on the rear suspension, the full name is "Rear camber arm", its number is 55250-1H0000. The original costs from 1300, there are substitutes from 600 rubles.
An interesting point in diagnostics. I would recommend that you attend it and see how this lever is diagnosed. If you pull it towards yourself, then even the “killed” lever may not show it. The lever must be wobbled from side to side and not with your hands (!), But with a tire iron or something similar, only in this case it will give itself out.
Photo of the lever:

About the front suspension stabilizer bushings. Some services bled me for money, like replacing these bushings means removing the subframe. It's a bullshit. It is enough to remove the protection. In Chelyabinsk, a replacement costs about 350 rubles apiece. If you remove the stretcher, then 1500 rubles for everything. The number of the front stabilizer bushings is 54813-1H100, the number of the rear bushings is 55513-1H100. I took the original in a retail store - 150 rubles, in the Exist there is an original and 60 rubles each.
Posts on this topic: one and two.
In general, the recommendations for the suspension are as follows, if something rattles:
1.We find good diagnosticians and attend the diagnosis, please show all the defects.
2. We start small: first we change the stabilizer bushings, stabilizer struts and only after that we think about replacing the struts.

That's all! A post from the series can be useful to anyone. :)

PS: Feelings now from the car, like a new one :)

You will need: keys "12", key "19" (two), silent block remover.

1. Apply the parking brake to the vehicle and install chocks (“shoes”) under the front wheels.

2. Loosen the corresponding wheel nuts. Raise the back of the car and remove the wheel.

3. Install the spring compressor on the rear suspension spring.

5. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower control arm to the hinge of the rear axle knuckle.

6.. lower the lever down, remove the suspension spring together with its upper support washer (the rear suspension fist and trailing arms have been removed for clarity).

7. Remove the lower spring retainer washer from the lower wishbone.

8. Remove the nut of the bolt securing the lower wishbone to the rear suspension beam.

10. . and remove the lower wishbone from the vehicle.

11. Carefully inspect the lever and its silent block. Replace the deformed lever. Signs of wear on the silent block are tears, one-sided bulging and peeling of the rubber from the metal bushing. To replace the silent block, you need a puller of a suitable size.

12. Press a new silent block into the lever eyelet and install the lever and the rear suspension spring in the reverse order of removal.

Video replacement of the rear wishbone, breakup rods in the KIA Ceed:

Reserve video replacement of breakup rods, rear wishbone in KIA Sid:

The rear suspension is independent, multi-link (three transverse and one trailing arm on each side), with telescopic shock-absorber struts 4 (Fig. 7.3) and 13, stabilizer bar 9 of lateral stability. The guiding elements of the rear suspension are trailing arms 7 and 16, the control and transverse arms 1, 15.2 and 10. This system of levers in combination with elastic rubber-metal hinges provides the suspension with the property of "passive steering": when cornering, the rear wheels turn at a small angle to the side turning, which provides better stability and controllability of the vehicle.

Rice. 7.3. Rear suspension: 1, 15 - lower transverse levers; 2, 10 - upper wishbones; 3.1 2 - rear suspension springs; 4, 13 - rear suspension shock absorbers; 5, 14 - rear suspension stabilizer struts; 6, 11 - spring support washers; 7, 16 - trailing arms; 8 - rear axle beam; 9 - rear suspension anti-roll bar

The telescopic shock absorber strut combines the functions of an elastic element and a vibration damper. The shock absorber at the bottom is connected to the lower wishbone, and at the top is attached to the body. A coil spring, a compression buffer with a protective strut cover and an upper support are assembled on the shock absorber strut.

The lower suspension arms are connected to the anti-roll bar. The anti-roll bar is attached via ball joints to the lower wishbones and stabilizer bar. The stabilizer bar is fixed to the rear axle beam with brackets with rubber pads

Some auto repair operations can be performed independently, saving on a visit to the technical center.
I offer you a photo report on the replacement of the rear stabilizer bar hinge struts (as well as the planned replacement of the rear brake pads at the same time).
Maybe someone will come in handy

So, the anti-roll bar is a device in the car's suspension that serves to reduce lateral roll when cornering.
In fact, this is a torsion bar (a spring in the form of a shaft, working in torsion), connecting the hub assemblies of the left and right wheels on the same axis of the car. The articulated strut connects the torsion bar to the left and right wheel hubs on the same axle. In the absence of a roll, both hinges rotate at the same angle, the torsion bar does not twist and rotates in the attachment points to the body as a whole. When the car rolls, the left and right torsion bar joints rotate at different angles, twisting the torsion bar and creating an elastic moment that resists roll. Stabilizers can be installed either on both axles, or only on one (usually on the front).
On the LED, the rear suspension is independent and the stabilizer is present

The figure shows schematically:
1. Anti-roll bar (example of the front axle)
2. Articulated stabilizer bar

For LEDs, the struts (both front and rear) are a weak point in the chassis and sometimes require replacement. The problem manifests itself in the form of knocking when driving on uneven roads. My thud was more pronounced in cold weather.
In our case, this is the rear axle.
To facilitate the task of replacing struts, it is necessary to hang out the entire rear of the car (both wheels). Thus, we unload the torsion bar.

1. Wrench - ratchet with 14 head
2. Combination wrenches 14 and 17
3. Adjustable pliers
4. Jack
5. Balloon key for 21
6.Lubrication (I only had a CV joint at hand - it will go!)

First we remove the wheels. Everything is as usual. First, install the chocks under the front wheel:

Loosen the wheel nuts - this procedure is easier to do while the car is still on the ground:

Install the jack and lift the car from one side. I don't have a second jack, so in order to raise the second wheel, I substitute a special tripod and lower the car onto it. You can use another stop, preferably one so that the car does not inadvertently jump off it.
The jack is then released to lift the machine from the other side:

With the freed jack, raise the second wheel. The car is posted. It is advisable to secure the jack with an additional emphasis.
Remove the wheel from one side:

This is what the hub assembly looks like. The patient is indicated by an arrow:

Next, we loosen and unscrew the nuts for securing the rack with a ratchet with a 14-point head on top and bottom. If they are very stuck and do not go, it is necessary to moisten the thread in advance with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
When unscrewing, it is necessary to hold the pins of the hinges. I didn't have a 16 key. I used a flip key.

A multi-link design in such a place as the rear suspension of a Kia Sid car is quite easy to find today. This is a common scheme favored by the vast majority of manufacturers for the sake of increasing stability and endowing their models with confident handling.

Such a suspension is possessed by the "hero" of our material - Kia Sid. This scheme is not simple, but allows the manufacturer to achieve very precise chassis tuning.

At the heart of any multi-link suspension design, of course, the front suspension is not taken into account here, the following elements are present:

levers, some of which are transverse and others are longitudinal;
one-piece stretcher;
coil spring elements;
shock absorbers;
hubs together with trunnions;
stabilizer with struts.

The layout of the rear chassis in the Kia Sid model includes 4 levers per side. Three elements are transverse, and the 4th is longitudinal. By means of the lever system, the correct holding of the hub together with the wheel in motion in a unit of time is ensured. The subframe reduces vibration transmitted to the body by the suspension elements.

Fastening of each of the levers is made using bolted connections through rubber-metal bushings, called silent blocks. Such cushioning components are present not only in the arms, but also in the attachment points of the subframe itself.

To damp vertical vibrations, shock absorbers are used, the work of which is supposed to work in tandem with springs. This ensures the most efficient position of the body in relation to the road surface. This is especially noticeable when driving over irregularities, when the body, which has tilted under its own weight, quickly and efficiently returns to its original place with the help of the indicated shock-absorbing elements.

The stabilizer is responsible for cornering stability and resistance to lateral forces, which is attached to special brackets on the subframe and is connected to its struts at both ends. The resource of their (racks) is small, about 60-80 thousand km, since they perceive loads with increased effort. The durability of these components, as well as of other rear suspension assemblies, is influenced by the condition of the road surfaces and the intensity of travel.

The steering knuckle is a kind of link between the levers. With its help, the forces that arise in the suspension components when the KIA Ceed is moving are redistributed. A hub is installed in the trunnion itself (or fist), which serves to hold the wheel and ensure its rotation. Some inexperienced owners are spontaneously misled by confusing the trunnion with the hub. To help such a contingent, we will address a photo that will allow us to finally understand the type and purpose of these elements. The fist is circled in this diagram to eliminate further confusion.

The rear suspension in the previous generation caused a lot of criticism due to its excessive rigidity. The owners of Kia Sid complained about the lack of comfort when driving through irregularities and potholes, when each bump is felt in full. The manufacturer listened to the angry owners and re-tuned the suspension, giving it a different characteristics in terms of balance between softness and stiffness, without affecting handling.

How has the suspension behavior changed in the new generation of the Kia Sid model? By the way, the front suspension has also been improved. Let's set up a test. Having started the movement, we focus on sensations in anticipation of shaking when passing through irregularities. However, nothing of the kind happens. While we praise the manufacturer, mentally showering him with all kinds of awards. Ahead, a sewer manhole cover appeared. We aim at her with the wheel. So, hitting! Yes, the sensations are not the most pleasant, but bearable. We are convinced that the transformations went to the benefit of the KIA Ceed and the new chassis significantly surpasses the design that was present in the previous generation.

In general, the behavior is confident, but I would like to wish the Korean engineers to continue working on improvement, so that the rear suspension and front suspension are even better, and then the KIA Ceed will be able to confidently "defeat" domestic bumps.

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chat (chat roulette), the audience is people from all over the world.We will replace the rear floating silent block with a Kia Sid.A dead floating silent block can be identified by a thud in the rear suspension at low speed on poor road surfaces. When driving on a normal road, the knocking is not felt, and it is also not audible on irregularities at high speed. But a thud at the back is not always a floating silent block, the rear stabilizer struts can knock.The number of the original silent block for the first generation Kia Sid (2007-2012) - 55130-4D000.2. Unscrew the nut below and pull out the bolt. On one side, we keep the bolt from turning; on the other, we twist the nut.The nut often sticks, we use WD-40.The bolt usually cannot be reached by hand either, we take the size guide and knock it out.3. Raise the fist slightly up from the lever.4. Squeeze out the silent block with a puller. The VAZ puller can be adapted. Image - DIY repair of the rear suspension on a Kia seed

I note that without a puller, it is not possible to correctly change the silent block.

5. The silentblock has a chamfer on one of the sides, when installed, it should look forward.

6. Before pressing in the silent block, wipe the seat and slightly lubricate the metal part of the silent block to facilitate pressing.

7. We press the silent block with a puller.

8. Insert the fist into the lever and fasten it with a bolt. Insert in the same way as remove. You need to remove the fist from the end.

Kia Ceed (2009+). REAR SUSPENSION

The rear suspension is independent, multi-link (three transverse and one trailing arm on each side), with telescopic shock absorber struts 4 (Fig. 7.3) and 13, stabilizer 9 of the transverse

sustainability. The guiding elements of the rear suspension are trailing arms 7 and 16, control and wishbones 1,

15, 2 and 10. Such a system of levers in combination

with elastic rubber-metal hinges provides the suspension with the property of "passive steering": when cornering, the rear wheels turn

Rice. 7.3. Rear suspension: 1.15 - lower wishbones; 2.10 - upper wishbones; 3.12 - rear suspension springs; 4.13 - shock absorber struts of the rear suspension; 5.14 - rear suspension stabilizer struts; 6.11 - spring support washers; 7.16 - trailing arms; 8 - rear axle beam; 9 - rear suspension anti-roll bar

at a small angle in the direction of the turn, which provides better stability and controllability of the vehicle.

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For self-replacement, you will need two keys for 17 and a silent block remover, you will also need a device for compressing the springs (a press will do). Replacing the lever usually takes up to 2 hours.

It is advisable to carry out the procedure in an inspection pit or in a box. It is worth changing when a "symptom" appears. This is when, when driving on a flat road, the steering wheel starts to "walk".

Upon observation of such a symptom, it is recommended to immediately go to the Service Centers, but if this is not possible, you can make a replacement yourself.

Secure the KIA Ceed with the parking brakes and also install chocks under the front wheels.
Loosen the fastening bolts of the required wheel. Raise the rear of the car with a jack or box and dismantle the wheel.
Install the spring compressor on the rear springs.
Compress the spring a little to relieve the suspension.
Remove the upper control arm-to-rear knuckle bolt. Remove the bolt.
Remove the lever bolt to the bracket on the body by unscrewing it.
Assess the condition of the lever. If it is deformed, replace it with a new one. Also assess the condition of the silent blocks for tears, peeling of rubber and "bulging" on one side.
If it is necessary to replace the silent blocks, press the silent blocks out of the breakup lever lugs with a puller.
Press new silent blocks into the lever eyes.
Install the lever in the reverse order to removal.

To carry out the procedure with your own hands, you need 12 keys, two 19 keys, a silent block remover. It is advisable to perform the operation in a box, but a viewing hole will also work.

Secure the vehicle with the parking brake and place chocks on the front wheels.
Loosen the required wheel bolts. Raise the rear of the vehicle for an hour using a jack.
Dismantle the required wheels.
Remove the bolt securing the lower wishbone to the rear axle knuckle.
Remove the suspension spring together with the support washer by moving the lever down.
Remove support washer from lower camber arm.
Unscrew the nut securing the bolt of the lower camber arm to the rear axle beam and remove the bolt.
Inspect the lever for wear. If necessary, replace the breakup lever. Assess the condition of the silent blocks. If the rubber is peeling from the bushing, if it breaks or bulges on one side, replace the silent blocks. For replacement, silent block removers are required.
Press new bushings into the lever eyelet, if necessary, and install the lever and springs in the reverse order to removal.

For self-replacement, you need to have two keys for 17, socket keys for 19 and 22. This procedure takes about 2 hours, but it all depends on the level of training. For less time consumption, it is recommended to make repairs in the box or at least in the inspection pit.

It is recommended to replace the breakup lever at specialized service centers, where skilled specialists will replace them as quickly and efficiently as possible.

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1) Power steering does not work, fluid level is normal. 2) The check engine is on, the scanner says [. ]

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Kia Rio. 2005 automatic station wagon, mileage 160 thousand km. The timing belt jumped, and everything was covered. You can use [. ]

I want to replace the engine with a contract one. Is it possible for you to replace the engine and how much will it be [. ]

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Main page "Kia repair" Replacement of silent blocks Kia Ceed

Replacement of silent blocks Kia Ceed

Model: Kia Ceed ED
Body type: hatchback
Year, mileage: 2007, 116 000 km
Gearbox, drive: automatic, front
Engine: 1.6 gasoline

Reason for contacting the Kia Sid Auto-Mig car service:

replacement of silent blocks Kia Sid

squeak in the rear suspension while driving

Diagnostics pendants revealed the following:

the silent blocks of the rear levers are badly worn out and require replacement (elasticity is lost)

Completed work:

removing the rear lower arm
pressing out a worn out silent block
pressing in a new
installation of the suspension arm in place

Spare parts used:

55215-1H000 - bushing, rear lower transverse arm

Video (click to play).

The cost (price) of replacing silent blocks with Kia Sid can be checked with the master of the auto technical center or in the QUESTION-ANSWER section

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