DIY nissan liberty rear suspension repair

It is quite obvious that any Nissan chassis unit must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, since, unlike the engine, which can fail and the Nissan Liberty simply will not go further, the breakdown of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to the obvious safety, the Nissan Liberty chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Nissan Liberty chassis will help to avoid such a situation.

Diagnostics of the Nissan Liberty chassis includes checking the elements:

• springs and shock absorbers;
• levers and supports (bearings from above, silent blocks from below);
• Nissan Liberty stabilizer bushings;
• steering rods and rack;
• wheel bearings;
• CV JOINT.

2. For experienced Nissan Liberty owners, it is not difficult to determine the malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. Plus, the most common suspension faults sound pretty much the same in all cars.

Diagnostics of the Nissan Liberty chassis should be carried out regularly, even without showing any hints of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it can also be done on an ordinary flyover or observation pit.

3. It is important to remember how the Nissan Liberty behaves in good condition, then any future malfunction will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you do not need to be an experienced driver, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following signs of malfunctions of the Nissan Liberty chassis occur:

• the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, bouncing of the Nissan Liberty chassis, which can both disappear and remain even on a completely flat road;
• too large rolls when cornering and noticeable swaying of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
• arbitrary steering to the side, Nissan Liberty leads away when driving straight;
• uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear the knock of the Nissan Liberty suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements are worn out or the fasteners that hold them are loose. There are a lot of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Nissan Liberty suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be inspected from below.

If you hear a crunch, especially when cornering or with a sharp acceleration of the Nissan Liberty, then we can say with almost complete certainty that the reason lies in the malfunction of the Nissan Liberty's CV joint, the so-called grenade. A squeak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If Nissan Liberty began to drift aside, more often this happens after hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do similarity collapse (collapse of the Nissan Liberty). At best, this will eliminate the trouble, at worst, upon impact, something could bend, starting from the steering rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

In the event of at least one of these signs, it is necessary to diagnose the Nissan Liberty chassis as soon as possible. Even in the rules, operation with a faulty suspension is expressly prohibited, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6. Not replaced in time Nissan Liberty suspension silent block, which is not so expensive, can lead to damage to the lever, with a price tag of one hundred dollars.Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that appear in the chassis of the Nissan Liberty, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Nissan Liberty chassis will help save money, after all, if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a prompt replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer. If, when examining the Nissan Liberty, an already torn boot was found, then you can be sure that soon this suspension element will need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the Nissan Liberty front suspension elements. The front suspension is more complex than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect the Nissan Liberty shock absorbers, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the serviceability of this suspension element is to swing the Nissan Liberty by pressing the corner where the shock absorber to be diagnosed is located. If, after pressing, Nissan Liberty, having returned to its original state, continued to swing up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the springs of the Nissan Liberty chassis are examined, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Nissan Liberty, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sagged and can no longer perform their function properly.

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom side of the Nissan Liberty. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlash, they should not be in a working car. The stabilizer and thrust mountings of the Nissan Liberty are checked in the same way. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is a play, this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

The main signs of a Nissan Liberty rear suspension malfunction are knocking and noise in the rear suspension area, vibration while driving. The rear part also walks laterally in different directions when driving, the rear tires are worn unevenly. Vehicle controllability may be impaired, the front and rear axles do not go parallel. Only workshop technicians can determine exactly what needs to be repaired in the rear suspension when diagnosing in St. Petersburg.

The service life of the rear suspension is usually longer than the front suspension, it is approximately 250-300 thousand km under normal use.
Nissan Liberty rear suspension repair consists in the repair of its constituent elements. Rear suspension designs are different, the main ones are as follows. Dependent, independent, beam, multi-link. The complexity of the repair still depends on the type of vehicle drive.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

The most vulnerable spots of the rear suspension of the Nissan Liberty are rubber covers, anthers, silent blocks. With the help of the latter, various elements of the rear suspension are connected. Therefore, it is recommended to check them every 10 thousand km. Also, an element that often fails, like on the front suspension, shock absorbers, they must be regularly repaired or replaced. You also need to monitor the springs, torsion bars, stepped bearings, ball bearings, levers, rubber, etc. In addition, it is during the diagnosis of the rear suspension that the belts and fasteners of the muffler and the exhaust pipe must also be checked. Our service stations will carefully examine the rear suspension of your car and carry out repairs competently and efficiently, with a guarantee.

It is almost impossible for a beginner to independently make a complete and high-quality diagnosis of the rear suspension, especially to repair it.
It is important to monitor the condition of the rear suspension of the Nissan Liberty, drive carefully on the roads, especially if there are pits and bumps, do not overload the trunk with weights, do not neglect technical inspection, and make repairs on time. Neglect of these measures threatens to get into an accident.

After repairing the rear suspension, it is imperative to check the wheel alignment after the repair.

Replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspension Nissan Cedric / Gloria Y33 with your own hands
Self-pressing and pressing in silent blocks

Read the same for the topic:

Reasons for replacing silent blocks : Squeaks when driving. On visual inspection, the silent blocks look broken, with a pitted rubber seal.

What to buy: Rear Suspension Nissan Cedric / Gloria includes 3 levers: front, rear, upper and transverse or lower. For a complete repair, you will need 6 silent blocks to each side, 5 of them are the same (on the upper arms and one side of the longitudinal arm) and one slightly larger on the side to the trailing arm body. All silent blocks are bought in almost any store of spare parts for foreign cars. Thus, you will need 10 + 2 silent blocks for all the rear suspension arms. The wishbone bushing is a little more durable than the others, so we did not change it, but the essence of the replacement is the same as for the others.

To carry out the work you will need:

• Ratchet and socket set. Ratchet handle extension.
• You will need a long bolt and nut for 12 and a sick, thick washer (possibly homemade, square).
• You will need separately two heads 30 and 22, it can be from a set or separate, preferably smooth.
• A set of spanner keys (in some places they are more convenient)
• Jack and balonnik
• Highly desirable: WD 40
• New silent blocks
• Power screwdriver

All work was carried out on a car with a tsedrico-water Ilyukha (nickname on the website: Ilya)

To begin with, as always, we jack up and securely fix the car. We remove the wheel and inspect the place of further activity.

(At the beginning I did not have time so that the second photo was put in the final one)

I'll tell you a little how to unscrew the silent blocks. Often they are worn out to such an extent that the cent comes off from the outer cage, but with a bolt it is firmly fixed in its seat with a bolt. And so many say that it is better to twist the bolt itself, as if they say that while the clip put on it is rigidly fixed with a lever, it is easier to rip it off the bolt, you can try it like that, but don't be too zealous. If it does not work, unscrew the nut during this process, or the central clip will come off as a result or not. If it comes off, everything is fine, if the clip remains on the bolt, you will need to tear it off, fill everything abundantly with Vedhehoy, screw the unnecessary nut onto the bolt's horses and knock on it with a hammer, one way or another, the central clip will come off the bolt.

The outer clip also sticks to it (or rather, it will add to its seat), you will press it out or knock it out, so the fact that it has become attached does not play a special role.

Silent blocks extrusion technique: Take two cooks, or something similar and suitable one long bolt, preferably black, knee, and matching washers. The first cooking should have a diameter of about the same as the silent block, in our case it was cooking for 22, and the second should have such a diameter that my silent block can fit into it. And so we rest the first small one on the silent block, the second we put behind the whole structure, between them a bolt and a nut, and we begin to twist, the silent block breaks loose from its seat and begins to slowly enter a large cooking. The large head is also not infinite in depth, so in the end we knocked out the silent block with a homemade screwdriver.

And some immediately try to knock out with a screwdriver, they also succeed, but with great effort.

To begin with, you need to unscrew all the levers from the hub and from the body, if you bought only 5 identical ones per side, then the wishbone from the body can not be unscrewed.

It is also worth noting that the upper arm, which has a curved shape, is also an adjusting similarity-breakup, so before unscrewing it from the body, drop the eccentric bolt and the body into its position. After you collect everything back, you will definitely have to go to the collapse.

We press out silent blocks

So, we unscrewed the levers. we begin to press out the silent blocks, for a start, from the hub. In our case, all the centers were torn off and after unscrewing them, only rubberized outer clips remained from the silent blocks. We pressed out the silent blocks using two heads and a bolt, the large head was not deep, so in the end, we finished the job with a homemade screwdriver and a hammer. We look at the photo:

We start pressing in silent blocks

Here are all the rear levers:
- rear wishbone (front):
right 55110-WF500 = 5221 rub. (original, on order in Moscow in 2-3 weeks from Japan)
left 55111-WF500 = 5221 rub. (original, on order in Moscow in 2-3 weeks from Japan)
- rear wishbone (rear) 55120-WF100 = 2856 rubles. (original, on order in Moscow in 2-3 weeks from Japan)
- rear hub in the form of a lever, with 3 silent blocks:
right 55501-WF406 = 8951 rubles. (original, on order in Moscow in 2-3 weeks from Japan)
left 55502-WF406 = 8951 rubles. (original, on order in Moscow in 2-3 weeks from Japan).

Here, probably, the price difference is not twice the difference, but all 20 times, the prices are insane.

in all rear levers there are 2 types of side blocks, small and large. for all the problem has already been resolved. for the big ones, go to the WWS link, and for the small ones - from my suspension repair report:

In short, take care of your horses, then they will take care of your life! After checking all the anthers, you should start diagnosing the Nissan Liberty front suspension elements. Periodic visual inspection of the Nissan Liberty chassis will help save money, because if you find a cracked boot or cover in time and make a quick replacement, then the element that was protected by the boot will last longer.

Suspension parts for Nissan Liberty (41 pcs). Front wheel hub Nissan Liberty PNM12 SR20DE seller:…

Experience will tell them what the problem is by the sound and its source. By the way, I almost forgot, I, like everyone else, soldered the conduits for the radio, so that it would not go out during the start-up, now it's very cool, I get out of the car and the music plays for another thirty seconds.

I put new springs and autobuffers, by the way, the stroke of the new struts is 1cm more, so the car slightly rose, which I am also very happy about. Well, after all the operations, the camber was set.

By the way, I almost forgot, I, like everyone else, soldered the conduits for the radio, so that it would not go out during the start-up, now it's very cool, I get out of the car and the music plays for another thirty seconds. In short, people take care of your horses, then they will take care of your life!

I got to drive! And do not just go read the news, namely write your own, and then so much happens, and I can not choose the time. Well, I will not write standard records for replacing wheels, oil and any consumables. On the front, the anthers of the racks and drives are changed, the supports of the racks are changed, since my were cracked and wildly sifted.

Balls, bushings, saleyntbloks, links. But on the rear, I changed everything, even the racks, my racks are in excellent condition, only the dead salublocks, because of them I had to buy new ones, all the bolts on the traction were stuck, and I had to cut out what kind of hemorrhoids it was, but he worth it.