Do-it-yourself Opel Vectra rear suspension repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear suspension of an Opel Vectra from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Last year we made an overhaul of the engine Opel Vectra-B (2 liters, X20XEV engine), the report was published on the website. Let me remind you that the mileage of the car was more than 400 thousand km, the previous owner practically did not follow the car, which resulted in the complete neglect of many components and assemblies. Even then, we saw that the suspension had to be done.
And so, when the owner was already tired of driving on a rattling and poorly controlled suspension, he decided to give the car to us for repair. In other services, people were not eager to take on this car. Previously, the owner went to a well-known online store, where the manager selected a number of parts for him to replace, according to the results of a bench test of the suspension on a “shake”.

Actually, a couple of pictures from the last report will remind us of what the car looks like:

There are no photographs of the rear suspension assembly, but in general it looks like this: two trailing arms to which the rear hubs are attached, and four wishbones on a subframe. The live multi-link suspension completely surpasses the torsion beam in terms of comfort and controllability, but requires care and maintenance in working order - numerous silent blocks and rubber cushions on our bad roads quickly “get tired” and deteriorate (anthers break, rubber silent blocks are deformed).
On this Opel, the rear suspension is simply in a monstrous state - there are no living silent blocks, everything is destroyed. As a result, the "rear" lives its own life, separate from the car, pestering the driver with poor handling, knocks and breaks. Judging by the state, no one has overhauled the suspension for 400 thousand km of run, limiting himself to replacing shock absorbers and minor repairs. This means that we have to disassemble EVERYTHING and change EVERYTHING too.

Video (click to play).

Here is such a bunch of spare parts brought by the client. After inspecting the parts and suspension, it became clear that half was missing. We make a list - we will select and order spare parts.

We begin to disassemble the rear suspension. Unscrew and remove the 4 wishbones. Then we remove the subframe to which the levers are attached. First you need to remove the resonator. The first photo shows the rear wishbone subframe. There are 4 pillows on it. They are relatives, and although they will “still endure” the state, we knock them out. We will change to new ones (3rd photo).

In order to unscrew 6 bolts fastening the trailing arms to the body - it took several hours and a significant part of the WD spray can (as well as a more advanced aerosol LM-40). The left lever unscrewed more or less successfully. Here he is - in the first photo. On this lever there is 1 large silent block (located inside the body, on the removable platform) and 2 "eggs". The large silent block is not only “tired”, it is completely destroyed. Because of this, the entire rear suspension walks back and forth in the direction of the vehicle. The two eggs to which the wishbones are attached are also dead. The anthers are torn, and the backlash of the bushings is enormous.

The right trailing arm did not want to be removed so easily. One bolt of fastening the platform on the body has soured so much that it turned together with the nut embedded inside the body. The bolt had to be cut off with a grinder and knocked out with a chisel. The rear stabilizer at the attachment points in the bushings is very worn out (the rubber bands have eaten through the torsion steel). The nuts securing the hubs to the trailing arms either break with the studs, or twist with them. We hang the hubs to the side on a leash. The parking cables are rotten and are a sad sight. They also need to be changed.

Let's start changing the parts that we have in stock. For example - rear subframe silent blocks and tie rods.

The first step is to change the cushions in the rear subframe. They are still original, with the GM label. Rubber has long been separated from the bushings and lives its own life. We weld the crack from the stabilizer attachment with a semiautomatic device. After replacing all 4 pillows, screw the stretcher back into place.

After much agony, the right trailing arm was also dismantled. The silent blocks are also completely destroyed.

Defective front levers. The silent blocks are in good condition and do not need to be changed.

In the trailing arms, the silent blocks - "eggs" were pressed. The pressing out of the main silent blocks (more precisely, the bushings that remained from them) have been postponed for now - the interference is too large, it is impossible to get them.

The rear hubs are non-separable, the bearing cannot be changed. The ABS sensor is also completely made with the hub. In both hubs, the bearings are dead (dry noise is heard), but the customer only brought one hub. We order the second one.
The car has rear disc brakes, but the manual parking brake is made by analogy with drum brakes - drum pads with an adjustment mechanism are hidden inside the discs (a ratchet, like on the Oka). Someone has already riveted the pads - the mechanism for performing police turns is not intended - so the lining is ripped off. There are wear ditches inside the discs and on the wells. The disks themselves are in good condition, we will simply grind them along the inner diameter, and we will order new pads.

After a couple of days we received some spare parts. The main silent blocks on the trailing arms were changed with the help of a press. The discs were punctured by removing the wear grooves from the parking brake pads.

Some details came back again. We replace both front wheel bearings with new ones, and the scrupulousness in the approach to the repair of the rear brakes translates into a complete replacement of all the little things - anthers, springs, soldiers, and so on.

We also replaced the parking cables with new ones. The silent blocks for the wishbones, which the client brought in, did not fit (the diameter of the outer sleeve was weakened - the silent blocks simply fell into the holes of the levers), had to be ordered again.
Ball joints and some exhaust hardware were also updated. The rubber cushions for the exhaust system were updated - the old ones were completely out of breath.
After replacing wheel bearings and steering rods, backlash and noise on the front wheels disappeared.

Read also: DIY vaz 2114 caliper repair

and number
725 0341 S2 - 13

Thoughts will be? Where to pierce the silent blocks data? Who is this mysterious manufacturer?

On the last adjustment of the rear suspension, 1 breakup bolt was broken.
Now a complete new set of breakup bolts has been purchased, with a breakup washer and nuts (the old washers can be used, I got screwed).
Breakup bolts are different in length!

# 20 - 0423969 - SCREW AND WASHER, M12 X 85, CONTROL LEVER TO CROSSMEMBER
No. 20 - 0423970 (24 422 973) - Screw and washer, m12 x 100, control lever to the rear axle, lower

Actually, a couple of pictures from the last report will remind us of what the car looks like:

Here is such a bunch of spare parts brought by the client. After inspecting the parts and suspension, it became clear that half was missing. We make a list - we will select and order spare parts.

Let's start changing the parts that we have in stock. For example - rear subframe silent blocks and tie rods.

After much agony, the right trailing arm was also dismantled. The silent blocks are also completely destroyed.

Defective front levers. The silent blocks are in good condition and do not need to be changed.

The rear hubs are non-separable, the bearing cannot be changed. The ABS sensor is also completely made with the hub.In both hubs, the bearings are dead (dry noise is heard), but the customer only brought one hub. We order the second one.
The car has rear disc brakes, but the manual parking brake is made by analogy with drum brakes - drum pads with an adjustment mechanism are hidden inside the discs (a ratchet, like on the Oka). Someone has already riveted the pads - the mechanism for performing police turns is not intended - so the lining is ripped off. There are wear ditches inside the discs and on the wells. The disks themselves are in good condition, we will simply grind them along the inner diameter, and we will order new pads.

The car hung on the lift for a week and a half, spare parts were ordered about 4 times!

The old man could not stand the hard life - the separator broke. The grooves under the balls are well worn. On the drive, the slots breathe in incense - the metal crumbles from fatigue.

Front suspension. Independent, with MacPherson struts, gas shock absorbers and anti-roll bar

Rear suspension . Independent, multi-link type
On the Station Wagon / Signum models, a rear ride height adjustment system is installed as an option.

Note: The suspension design of the Unisersal and Signum models is similar in design to that used on the Sedan and Hatchback models. The difference between the models lies in the size of the wheelbase, which in the Wagon / Signum models is 13 cm longer than the Hatchback models.

Attention: When assembling the structural elements of the suspension and steering, it is imperative to comply with the requirements for the tightening force of the threaded connections (see Specifications)!

1.1 Front suspension design

1 Shock absorber
2 Vertical anti-roll bar
3 Anti-roll bar
4 Hydraulic control arm support
5 Coil spring, shock absorber
6 Left amplifier, rear subframe holder
7 Suspension control arm

8 Drive shaft
9 Bracket for fastening the front engine mount
10 Lower radiator brackets
11 Subframe
12 Damping rubber mounts for the subframe (4 pcs.)
13 Front brake caliper

1.2 Rear suspension design

1 Upper damping coil spring seat
2 Beam, rear suspension
3 Shock absorber
4 Rear brake caliper

5 Anti-roll bar
6 Trailing arm with damping rubber-metal bearing

Note: After giving away, carefully check the condition of the fasteners and, if necessary, replace them with elements of the same standard size.

5. Since the maintenance procedures for the suspension components are performed under the vehicle, care must be taken in advance to ensure that the vehicle can be lifted and secured in the raised position (prepare a secure jack and supports

Caution: Never carry out any work under a vehicle that is only secured in the raised position by means of a jack.

6. Optimum driving performance and minimum tire wear are achieved with correct wheel alignment. In case of uneven tire wear, as well as unsatisfactory stability on the road, it is necessary to check the geometry of the suspension and the installation of the wheels. This will require a series of optical measurements that can only be performed using special equipment.

Front wheels for all models. + 0 '± 10'

Regular suspension (all models). 0'6 '+ 10' / - 12 '

Reinforced suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22VH). +0 ″ ± 10 ′

Sports suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22YH). + 0'16 '' ± 10 '

Regular suspension (all models). 0 ° 58 '± 45'

Reinforced suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22YH). 0 ° 48 ’± 45 ′

Sports suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22YH). 1 ″ 7 ± 45 -

Regular suspension (all models). 1 ″ 30 ’± 20 ′

Reinforced suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22YH). 1 ″ 12 - ± 20 ′

Sports suspension (Z20NET / Z22SE / Z22YH). 2 ° ± 35 ′

Efforts of a tightening of threaded connections, Nm

Self-locking front shock absorber upper mounting bolts. 20 Nm + 45 ′ + 15 ′

Self-locking front shock absorber lower bolts / nuts. 85 Nm + 75 ° + 15 ′

Nut for securing the upper support bearing of the shock absorber strut. one hundred

Nuts for fastening the vertical stabilizer struts. 65

Front wheel hub nuts. 150 Nm - release 45 ′ + 250 Hv

Rear shock absorber upper mounting bolts. 90

Rear shock absorber lower mounting bolts. 150

Front wheel hub assembly retaining bolts. 100 Nm + 60 ′ + 15 ′

Rear wheel hub assemblies retaining nuts. 60 Nm + 60 ° + 15 ″

Bolt of the clamp of fastening of the ball joint of the control arm to the steering knuckle. 30 Nm + 60 ′ + 15 ′

Bolts of fastening of the inner supports of the control arm. 90 Nm + 75 ′ + 15 ′

Front subframe mounting bolts. 80 Nm + 120 ′ + 15 ′

Front subframe rear bracket triangular reinforcement mounting bolts. 100 Nm + 90 ′ + 15 ′

Internal mounting bolts of the triangular reinforcements of the rear subframe holder. 90 Nm + 45 ′ + 15 ′

Outer subframe rear bracket triangular reinforcement mounting bolts. 55 Nm + 45 ′ + 15 ′

unscrew it if it rattles even more, they cost 40 rubles a piece, on a flight or in transit

silent - (2 floating-21, 1 large on the lever to the body-20, 2 on each lever-6.7, 2 subframe -2.3-rarely come out) x2 and 2 stabilizer bushings
36-931d086f0ff1
Post has been editedshtirlicz on: 16 February 2010 - 16:26

silent - (2 floating-21, 1 large on the lever to the body-20, 2 on each lever-6.7, 2 subframe -2.3-rarely come out) x2 and 2 stabilizer bushings

Assistant professor

Group: Chatterboxes
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Opel

Assistant professor

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Posts: 111
Registration: 27.11.2006
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opel vektra a 91 2.0 cd

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Registration: 14.11.2007
User #: 7115

Vectra

I bought a miracle car, Vectru station wagon '97. 2 years left like clockwork, and just recently, when changing shoes for winter, I discovered that the rear spring had burst. As expected, I signed up for the service, I was immediately embarrassed that for station wagons and sedans, some springs go, I came and broke off. I have a Vectra - station wagon red sport springs. I used to notice that she was too small, but in principle I got used to it and now I don't want anything else. And then one was covered.

Change to simple ones at the back? the muzzle will fall down, and tomorrow we will punch the question on the racks, they seem to be shortened too. It is necessary to change a lot of attendants with racks together with the front.

I want to try to find such sports, can anyone come across, can someone tell me. So far, the best thing that has been invented through wine and ecstasy to break through, maybe this is a factory complete set. Well, if anyone can help with advice, I will be very grateful.

Are you here »Vectra Club Murmansk» Repair Vectra B »I want to repair the suspension.

Edited by Denni Vale (2011-10-27 21:09:52)
- I did it myself, but I have to make adaptations to replace the silent blocks! Everything changes in a day!
  The main signs of a malfunction of the rear suspension of the Opel Vectra S are knocking and noise in the area of the rear suspension, vibration while driving. The rear part also walks laterally in different directions when driving, the rear tires are worn unevenly. Vehicle controllability may be impaired, the front and rear axles do not go parallel. Only workshop technicians can determine exactly what needs to be repaired in the rear suspension when diagnosing in St. Petersburg.
  
  The service life of the rear suspension is usually longer than the front suspension, it is approximately 250-300 thousand km under normal use.
  Repair of the rear suspension of the Opel Vectra S consists in the repair of its constituent elements. Rear suspension designs are different, the main ones are as follows. Dependent, independent, beam, multi-link. The complexity of the repair still depends on the type of vehicle drive.
  
  Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
  Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
  STO on Courage, 748-30-20, from 10 to 20, no days off.
  
  WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33
  
  The most vulnerable spots of the rear suspension of the Opel Vectra S are rubber covers, anthers, silent blocks. With the help of the latter, various elements of the rear suspension are connected. Therefore, it is recommended to check them every 10 thousand km. Also, an element that often fails, like on the front suspension, shock absorbers, they must be regularly repaired or replaced. You also need to monitor the springs, torsion bars, stepped bearings, ball bearings, levers, rubber, etc. In addition, it is during the diagnosis of the rear suspension that the belts and fasteners of the muffler and the exhaust pipe must also be checked. Our service stations will carefully examine the rear suspension of your car and carry out repairs competently and efficiently, with a guarantee.
  
  It is almost impossible for a beginner to independently make a complete and high-quality diagnosis of the rear suspension, especially to repair it.
  It is important to monitor the condition of the rear suspension of the Opel Vectra C, drive carefully on the roads, especially if there are pits and bumps, do not overload the trunk with weights, do not neglect technical inspection, and make repairs on time. Neglect of these measures threatens to get into an accident.
  
  After repairing the rear suspension, it is imperative to check the wheel alignment after the repair.
  
  Body parts, chassis, engine
  
  The suspension of any modern car, as a rule, fails primarily due to improper, or rather, inaccurate operation. You yourself know very well what quality our roads are, especially in spring, after the snow has melted: the holes are such that it won't take long to tear off the wheel here, not to mention damaging the suspension of the Vectra S. Of course, every driver is already tries to drive carefully as much as possible, but it is not always possible to know in advance what awaits you around the next turn, therefore the need for repair or replacement suspension Opel Vectra S may occur at the most unexpected moment.
  
  Read also: Bosch vacuum cleaner DIY wire rewinder repair
  This is especially true for truck owners, by the way. The reason for this is understandable, because it is not at all difficult to imagine what kind of load the suspension elements are experiencing if suddenly some kind of unevenness comes across at high speed. Thirty tons of cargo significantly increases pressure, so springs or airbags do not last long here.On passenger cars, the situation is a little simpler, but anyway, at the present time, car services are overcrowded, so often you even have to sign up in a queue. Next, we will try to talk about how to quickly and inexpensively carry out a completely professional repair as front suspension Opel Vectra S and back. This conversation will always be relevant, because one cannot expect in any way that the quality of our roads will improve, and the general operating conditions in our country are such that the need for repair rear suspension Vectra C or something else will always exist.
  
  Experienced and knowledgeable people who already have some technical knowledge, of course, prefer to fix all problems on their own. This is truly correct and reasonable, for obvious reasons. But what to do, for example, for fragile women or those motorists who have only recently acquired a car, so they are not yet particularly aware of all the subtleties and nuances? There are actually enough options: you can turn to the so-called self-taught masters, you can try to do everything yourself, or you can, and it will be best, go to an official car service and entrust all the work on the opel vectra suspension with real professionals in their field. Of course, here you will have to pay not only for the parts themselves, but also for the work, and sometimes all this costs a considerable amount, but on the other hand, you will be completely confident in the quality of the work, because you must also be given guarantees.
  
  What is necessary:
  1) Key 21 and head torex E20
  2) Puller-of two pieces of pipes, one with a diameter of 50mm, the second 45max and 40max minimum.
  3) Two complex hinges, I took Febi # 26643, by the way, on the old hinge there is an inscription-Germany
  
  Stages of work:
  1) Domcartim car, remove the wheel.
  2) Remove the ABC sensor wiring from the lever and take out the parking brake cable by removing the return spring.
  3) We unscrew the upper bolt, before removing it, it is necessary to put something under the hub so as not to cut off the brake hose and it would be easier to put the lever back in place.
  4) We press out the salentblock, of course we had to tinker a little with this, because the puller was not perfect, we had to use the bolt unscrewed in p3 as a part of the puller.
  5) We press in on the sly, so that it goes without distortions.
  6) Putting it up in reverse order.
  
  Before this procedure, the backside threw scary at the joints in the corners and swayed, there was also a creak. All is well now. But he still throws a little at the joints (much less). I sin on the lower levers, or maybe an internal sale (or whatever a boomerang net there.) Maybe someone knows what could be. And so significant savings.
  
  All-wheel drive modifications, louse.
  
  15 March 2014. Last year, we overhauled the Opel Vectra-B engine (2 liters,. On this Opel, the rear suspension is simply monstrous.
  
  Opel Vectra B. 9.12. Rear suspension anti-roll bar. MacPherson struts are attached to the lower wishbones with ball joints. ... diagram of the device of the car Gaz Volga
  
  Repair manual for Opel Vectra B (Opel Vectra) 1995-2002 ... 9.12 Rear suspension anti-roll bar 9.13 Upper.
  
  November 10, 2015. Replacing silent blocks and rubber bushings Opel Vectra. ... What are the names of all the rear suspension arms and which silent blocks in the Opel Vectra C. Based on the diagram, the silent blocks of the wishbones are not separately.
  
  Opel Vectra B car malfunctions, Opel Vectra B sores,. The strong and soft suspension also pleases with high reliability, and the rear one is also.
  
  11 Nov 2014. This video tells how you can replace the rear beam silent blocks in a garage.
  
  The rear suspension of the Opel Vectra B is independent, on two transverse and one trailing arm. The most unreliable place is this.
  
  Replacing the floating silent block Opel vectra b
  
  Main road, Second-test Opel Vectra B