DIY Tiguan rear suspension repair

Here are photo reports on repair and detailed documentation on cars:

Volkswagen Tiguan (Model Code: 5N1) 2008 - 2011
Volkswagen Tiguan (Model Code: 5N2) 2012 - 2016

Jumped the timing chain on the BWK engine (BLG, BMY) in VW Tiguan 1.4 TSI (rus.) Photo report
Dismantling of engines BWK, BLG, BMY. These engines were installed on cars: VW Tiguan (5N1), VW Touran (1T1), VW Touran (1T2), VW Golf 5 (1K1, 1K5), VW Jetta 5 (1K2), VW Golf Plus (5M1).
Volkswagen Tiguan car, 1.4 TSI engine. Does not start. I checked the compression - zero for all cylinders. He removed the camshaft covers, the valve timing was knocked down. I decided to disassemble the engine. Troubleshooting results.

Replacing the turbine actuator on the CBBB 2.0 TDi 125kw engine (rus.) Photo report
CBBB engine, mileage 166,000 - problem with the turbine control actuator. Symptoms: emergency driving, loss of power, hanging error about an unreliable signal from the actuator sensor.

Rebuilding the intake flap control unit 03L 129 086 V120 on a 2.0 TDI engine (rus.) Photo report
A colleague on a 2.0 TDI engine has an error: 18447 / P2015 / 008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1): Implausible Signal
Do not rush to follow Ross's instructions, it is also not advised to run and buy a new block. First, do the following test: Find the damper and check the mobility of the damper rod.

Determination of turbine overflow by logs, TDI engines, etc. (rus.) Photo report
The most pressing problem in turbocharged engines is the occurrence of an overflow. This is especially true for diesel engines. the formation of soot in the exhaust gases leads to its rapid accumulation inside the turbine and wedging of the geometry. First, let's try to figure out how the inflation pressure is regulated, and then let's look at what the blowout looks like in the logs.

TDI CR 2.0 l (CBAB) engine in VW Tiguan (rus.) Technical training. Technical data, Engine mechanics, Fuel system, Exhaust gas treatment, Turbocharger, Bosch EDC 17 engine management system / System diagram in VW Tiguan model, etc.

1.4l / 90 kW TSI engine turbocharged (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program 405 VW / Audi. Engine letter designation: CAXA.
The 1.4l (122hp) TSI engine replaces the 1.6l (115hp) FSI engine. Compared to its predecessor, the new TSI engine offers significantly lower fuel consumption and CO2 emissions with significantly better performance characteristics. It differs from the two TSI engines with double supercharging, first of all, the absence of a compressor and a new charge air cooling system.
Contents: Technical features, Technical data, Intake system, cylinder head, Single charging with exhaust turbocharger, Cooling systems, Charge air cooling, Fuel system with volumetric flow rate, Overview of the Bosch Motronic MED 17.5.20 engine management system, Sensors, Actuators elements, functional diagram.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Petrol engine 1.4 liter / 110 kW (BWK) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, cooling system, fuel system, turbocharger, compressor, turbocharging, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Petrol engine 1.4 liter / 110 kW (CAVA) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, turbocharger, compressor, turbocharging, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Gasoline engines 2.0 l. / 125/147 kW (CAWA, CAWB, CCTA, CCTB) (rus.) Repair manual.
Timing replacement, Block head, lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, turbocharging, turbocharger, fuel injection system, exhaust system.

Volkswagen Tiguan 2007 -: Diesel engines 2.0 l. / 100/103/120/125 kW (CBAA, CBAB, CBBA, CBBB) (rus.) Repair manual.
Lubrication system, fuel system, cooling system, supercharging system with gas turbocharger, injection system, exhaust system.

Installing a new sample chain tensioner on CBFA, CCTA, CCZA, CCZB, CDAA, CDAB engines (rus.) Factory repair manual.
Engines CBFA, CCTA, CCZA, CCZB, CDAA, CDAB were installed on cars:
Volkswagen Tiguan / Volkswagen Tiguan (model code: 5N1, 5N2)

TDI CR 2.0 l (CBAB) engine in VW Tiguan (rus.) Technical training.
Technical data, Engine mechanics, Fuel system, Exhaust gas treatment, Turbocharger, Bosch EDC 17 engine management system / System diagram in VW Tiguan model, etc.

The Volkswagen 2.0 Liter Chain-Driven TSI Engine (eng.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program VW / Audi 824803. Engine Code: CCTA - CBFA.

Information on the repair of engines VAG / Engines repair
This engine repair information applies to all VAG vehicles. In order to quickly find the documentation for your engine, simply press Ctrl-F on the keyboard and type the letters of your engine. For example: 2E or BSE (English only!)

Cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning system
(Cooling, Heating, Air Conditioning and Climate Control Systems)

Replacing the engine radiator (rus.) Photo report.
The procedure is applicable for vehicles on the A5 platform.

Stove fan cleaning (rus.) Photo report
If the stove fan sometimes creaks, for example, at a cold one or at certain speeds, or whistles constantly, as I have now, then you are here! I used to creak sometimes, and then it became constantly.

Auxiliary heater, Workshop Manual (eng.) Repair manual for Webasto Thermo Top V heater. Edition 09.2008
The autonomous parking heater Webasto Thermo Top V was installed together with the engines:
AXX, AZV, BAG, BKG, BKC, BJB, BLF, BLN, BLP, BLS, BRV, BSE, BSF, BMM, BLG, BMY, BPY, BWA, BKD, BMN, BGU, BLX, BLY, BLR, BUB, BVX, BVY, BVZ, BXE, BXF, BXJ, CAVD, CAWB, CAXA, CBAB, CBRA, CBFA, CCTA, CHGA on many cars, including Volkswagen Tiguan (5N1, 5N2) 2008 - 2015
Upkeep (repair groups): 82 - Auxiliary heating.
Repairing auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Removing and installing auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Connecting auxiliary heater Thermo Top V to coolant circuit, Fuel supply for auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Regulation of auxiliary heater Thermo Top V, Electric engine preheater, 230V or 115V , Checking connector, Testing safety switch, Removing and installing engine preheater, Connecting engine preheater into cooling circuit - 2.0L FSI, 1.9L TDI, 1.6L MPI.
64 pages. 1 Mb.

VW Tiguan - autonomous heating and ventilation system (rus.) Webasto presentation. Starting from October 2012, for VW Tiguan cars with 1.4 TSI and 2.0 TDI engines, a new option is available for order - an autonomous heating and ventilation system (in the configurator it is indicated as "parking heater with remote control") With the help of this presentation we will try to briefly answer the main questions according to this system, which the buyer may have:
What it is?
How it works?
What will this option give me?
Why should I order this option when buying a car?
I still have doubts, or other questions.

Direct injection petrol engines. Oxygen sensors (rus.) VW technical training.
Contents: oxygen sensors, two-stage oxygen sensor, adjustable lambda circle for rhythmically controlled systems (with jumping lambda probes), adjustable lambda circle for rhythmically controlled systems, broadband oxygen sensor, 4.2L (BGH) engines, 1.4L engines TSI (BLG), 1.8L (BZB) and 2.0L (CAWB) engines.

Injection and ignition systems
This information on injection systems applies to all VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi vehicles.

General information on ignition systems
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Fuel system of FSI engines (rus.) Device and principle of operation. Self-study program 334 VW / Audi. All FSI engines with power ratings of 66 kW and above are equipped with an advanced fuel system.
This system has the following differences: The parts of the high-pressure pump and the injector rail have a special anti-corrosion coating that protects them from the effects of fuels with an ethanol content of up to 10%. High pressure pump control changed. The fuel drainage pipeline (to the tank), which has leaked along the plunger, has been eliminated as unnecessary. The fuel discharged through the safety valve mounted on the injector rail is diverted through a relatively short pipeline into the low pressure circuit, upstream of the high pressure pump.This Self-Study Program describes the design and operation of the Advanced Fuel System using the example of the 110 kW 2.0-liter FSI engine.
Contents: The composition and diagram of the fuel system, The principle of regulating the fuel supply by its consumption, Components of the fuel system, Fuel pump control unit, Booster electric pump, High pressure pump with fuel pressure regulator, Low pressure sensor, High pressure sensor, High pressure injectors, Pressure regulator , Choke adapter.

General information on fuel systems
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

Replacing the front hub on cars built on the Volkswagen A5 / PQ35 platform (rus.) Photo report.
Information suitable for cars: VW Golf 5 / Jetta 5 (1K), VW Golf 6 (5K), VW Tiguan (5N), VW Touran (1T), VW Golf Plus (5M), VW Beetle (5C), VW Caddy 2 ( 2K), VW Caddy 3 (2C), VW Scirocco (137), VW Eos (1F), Skoda Octavia A5 (1Z), Skoda Yeti (5L), Audi A3 (8P), Audi TT (8J), SEAT Leon Mk2 (1P), SEAT Altea (5P).

Elimination of hard-to-diagnose knock in the suspension (rus.) Photo report
Applicable for all A5 (PQ35) platform: VW Golf 5, VW Golf 6, VW Jetta, VW Golf Plus, VW Touran, VW Caddy, VW Tiguan, VW Eos, Skoda Octavia 2, Audi A3, Audi TT, Seat Altea, Seat Toledo, Seat Leon.

Replacing the rear silent levers in cars built on the Volkswagen A5 / PQ35 platform (rus.) Photo report
Information suitable for cars: VW Golf 5 / Jetta 5 (1K), VW Golf 6 (5K), VW Tiguan (5N), VW Touran (1T), VW Golf Plus (5M), VW Beetle (5C), VW Caddy 2 ( 2K), VW Caddy 3 (2C), VW Scirocco (137), VW Eos (1F), Skoda Octavia A5 (1Z), Skoda Yeti (5L), Audi A3 (8P), Audi TT (8J), SEAT Leon Mk2 (1P), SEAT Altea (5P).

General Suspension Information
Suitable for many cars VW, Skoda, SEAT, Audi

The rear suspension has been creaking for 3 months, just like an old cart. The run is already 140t.km.
Drove in for a diagnosis and sentenced me to:
1. Rear suspension arm, transverse, lower 1K0 505 311 AB
It changes along with the silent block, because it does not come out - 2pcs (number 7 in the picture)
2. Silent block of the rear trailing arm 1K0 505 541 D (number 3 in the figure) changes in the lever (number 2 in the figure).

The silencers are all with holes, respectively, worn out and torn.

Immediately anticipating the question of the lower levers, where, according to the scheme, it is possible to change the silent.
You cannot press it out and put a new one, for Tiguan it is not in the order.

Well, and the best part is that you can take levers that are not the original, 2 times cheaper than the original

Weird. In reality, when ordering a lever at the bottom of the table, it gives out a bunch of options for silent, as doals, which are an integral part of this lever.

Where does the information about the impossibility of repressing come from?

Sorry. remontvw.spb, already wrote about it.

vlas, so the dealer told me and according to the scheme in the Exist it is written that it is not for this model.
About silent - I also saw the list, but changed everything at the dealer, now there is a 20% discount on repairs. They don't republish.
I would have to go to them, remove the lever, lead somewhere for repressing. Too long and confusing.
Moreover, there is a non-original, the price is optimal

Added after 58 seconds
remontvw.spb, the same creaked?

Added after 1 minute
Although the survivability of the rear suspension is stronger than the front.
In the front hall I have already changed the silencers 2 times.

Timely replacement of silent blocks Tiguan is the way to silence while driving. In most cases, if you hear squeaks and knocks behind when overcoming obstacles, firstly you should suspect the stabilizer bushings, but it so happens that everything is in order with them, but the roads and salt did their job to suppress the silent blocks - it was with such a picture that Tiguan arrived. Diagnostics of the chassis and close inspection revealed cracks, tears and peeling of the rubber parts of the silent blocks, an excellent opportunity for the suspension to arrange a drum party at the first irregularity.

• Car: Volkswagen Tiguan
• Year of issue: 2012
• Model Year: 2012
• Engine: CAWA (2.0L 1984 cc 170 hp)
• ICE features: FSI, 4 valves per cylinder, turbocharger
• Transmission: JVZ (classic automatic transmission, 6 steps, modification 09M)
• DSG Preselective Gearbox Robot: No
• Mileage: 75 121 kilometers

The owner of the Volkswagen Tiguan came to the spring diagnostics and scheduled technical inspection - he was worried about a knock in the back of the car. Ms Diagnostics soon nodded towards the rear silent blocks, they say, they have strong wear, so they began to play around. The verdict was passed, the estimate was provided, the owner waved his hand and shouted "Walk like that!" and "When will the fools mend the roads?" went into the sunset, leaving the phone for communication.In time! The knock is just a harbinger, camber and toe will disappear behind it. And that's right, if you continue driving, then the wrong camber and toe will be added to the knock - which means goodbye tires.

We lift the sufferer on a lift and, for a start, rid him of the wheels. We remove the parking brake actuator wiring fasteners, unscrew the stabilizer post from the trailing arm and two fastening bolts that are sent to the world of blast furnaces.

Freedom to the trailing arm!

Replacing the silent blocks of Tiguan is the dismantling of the trailing arms with brackets on both sides - we change only in pairs and nothing else. Half-measures give a half-guarantee. Specially invited guest hydraulic press: no exercise with a hammer, barbarian chisel and other such delights. We mark the position of the support bracket on the body, this will greatly facilitate our life when it returns to its natural habitat. The less dancing with tambourines, the better.

We mark the coordinates of the bracket installation

The procedure is fine-tuned to the smallest detail, with some delicacies, of course, but apparently German magicians cannot do without them - it's not for nothing that their films for adults were so popular in the nineties. With a breath “Ya, ya, das ist fantastish”, unscrew the four bolts and release the pair of “trailing arm-support bracket”.

Marks are ready, you can remove the lever with the bracket

The cracks on the silent block are visible to the naked eye, according to their condition, it can be assumed that it went through fire, water and copper pipes, pits, salt puddles and recumbent traffic policemen.

Cracks in the silent block Volkswagen Tiguan

We separate the support bracket from the lever for a while, clamp the lever in a vice, mark the position of the bracket relative to the lever with a mark (useful during assembly) and unscrew the bolt.

Getting rid of the bracket

The trailing arm moves to the press, where, using two mandrels, we squeeze out the silent block.

We press out the silent block Tiguan

Here is the first tired rubber-metal cylinder.

Replacement of silent blocks Tiguan in full swing, where the first, there and the second.

Replacing silent blocks Tiguan is a necessary thing

We install the silent block in the lever according to the following rules:

• do not confuse the sides;
• correctly align the imaginary line through the rubber tabs with the mark on the lever;
• press in the silent block exactly at the level of the glass of the trailing arm.

We press new silent blocks into the trailing arm

We return the support bracket to the lever, aligning the marks that we put during disassembly. We check the distance from the middle of the bolt to the edge of the bracket, it should be 57.5 millimeters with a tolerance of 1 millimeter in either direction, tighten the bolt.

Be careful when installing the bracket

We do the same with the second pair of "trailing arm-support bracket" and get ready to return them to the place specified by the engineers. We process the joints with a copper emulsion.

Nobody should rust for no reason

We attach the trailing arm to the wheel bearing housing, it is also the rear fist, it is the axle. We do not tighten the bolts, but only bait, we need mobility.

We bait the bolts, but do not tighten

Now you need to raise the suspension, so the bracket is quietly installed in the groove and it is convenient to combine it with the marks applied earlier. Tighten the new bolts to 50 Newtons per meter and turn the wrench 45 °.

We fasten the bolts only with the “speaker”

It was the turn to tighten the bolts on the lever to the victorious 90 Newtons per meter + tighten it by 45 °.

We fasten the stabilizer post, connect the parking brake cable, observing the required size between the mount and the connector, it should be 150 millimeters.

Do not forget to connect the parking brake - it will come in handy

We return the wheels and send the car for wheel alignment. For correct adjustment, we equalize the pressure in the wheels.

Equalizing the pressure in the wheels

We install sensors on the wheels and determine which wheel is looking where and what to do with them.

We measure camber, toe and caster Tiguan

This is the picture emerging. Fortunately, there are experienced people who in a short time reduce all the values ​​to the required ones.

After replacing the silent blocks, the camber-convergence procedure is mandatory

By the way, it is good practice to check all the bolts and nuts on a two-post lift before moving to four posts, so as not to get an unpleasant surprise during the adjustment process.

Soon everything will be in the green zone

It will not work with ordinary keys to regulate the toe camber, you need special cunningly curved specimens. With them, and soon, and efficiently, and damn convenient.

These are the keys to regulate the camber - convergence

Done, replacement of silent blocks Tiguan is designed in the best traditions, collapse and convergence in the center of the "green zone". A test call to the owner with the good news that from now on he can enjoy a comfortable and quiet ride until the two main troubles take their toll again.

Time spent on all operations 3 hours 20 minutes... The turnkey cost was 7200 rbl.

To avoid troubles with the suspension of an auto mechanic of a specialized service center, it is recommended to check its condition twice a year. Autumn and spring. Damage can often be prevented. In addition, the suspension consists of a dozen elements. Failure of one threatens to turn into repair of others. Owner Volkswagen TIGUAN I heard a grinding noise, extraneous knocks appeared in the rear of the car. However, he did not immediately pay due attention. Only when the ground clearance of the car changed, and the car fell a little on the right side, I decided to contact a specialized car service. Volkswagen TIGUAN pulls into the repair area of ​​a specialized car center. The auto mechanic has to carry out running diagnostics and eliminate the malfunction.

The car is put on a lift, the car left the assembly line in 2010, the mileage is 80 thousand kilometers. So we can say that it's time for something to break. An auto mechanic of a specialized car service begins work. In principle, when inspecting the undercarriage, you should pay attention to the following elements:

- Ball joints for backlash;

- Visually inspect longitudinal and transverse levers, silent blocks;

- Measured wear of brake discs and pads;

- The condition of shock absorbers, springs is checked;

- Outboard bearings and gearbox are "listened to".

You can order any original spare parts for Volkswagen repair, as well as their analogues, by calling 244-59-63

Based on his many years of experience, the auto mechanic, first of all, drew attention to the condition rear springs... And I was not mistaken. The right rear - fell apart into two parts. Replacement required. The left spring will also have to be replaced, they only change in pairs. In the warehouse of a specialized car service, there is a large selection of spare parts, both original and their analogues. The owner of the Volkswagen TIGUAN was offered a choice of two high-quality analogs: springs production companies BILSTEIN and LESJFORS. It was decided to use LESJFORS springs for replacement, they are cheaper.

For an experienced auto mechanic specialized car service change rear suspension springs won't be a big problem. The owner of the car oversees the process of work - this is not prohibited in our car service. First, the auto mechanic needs to remove the right wheel. Then:

- Unscrew the caliper block;

- We lower and take out the lever;

- The landing site must be cleaned of dirt and dust;

- We make replacement and assembly.

Similar actions are performed with the left wheel. Replacement of rear suspension springs has been completed successfully. After this procedure, it is recommended to perform camber toe... The specialized car service is equipped with modern universal stands HUNTER 3D HAWKEYE.They meet the highest quality standards and allow the most accurate and precise adjustments to be made in record time. An hour after the Volkswagen treatment TIGUAN leaves the repair area. The car is in good order.

Interesting fact: The rear suspension springs are only replaced in pairs.

The need to replace the hub on the Tiguan arises when an incomprehensible rumble arises while driving, this sound indicates wear of the wheel bearings, but since the hub unit is not collapsible (they are simpler, but more expensive to repair), you have to replace the wheel hub. In this case, one of the owners of the Volkswagen Tiguan not only covered the rear hub bearing, but also began to wag the rear of the car, so both the Tiguan rear hub and the rear stabilizer levers need to be replaced. How to cope with such a rear suspension repair and change the hub, see a visual video. By the way, on the Volkswagen Tiguan that the rear and front hubs are the same, so knowing how to replace the rear hub, you can also easily cope with replacing the VW Tiguan front hub.

The rear hub replacement process will include the following tasks:

• It is necessary to remove the brake caliper;
• Unscrew the hub bolt (you will need to find a suitable wrench);
• Remove the brake disc;
• Unscrew the stabilizer lever;
• Unscrew the bottom shock absorber mounting bolt;
• Unscrew the lever bolt and then we can proceed to dismantle the very rear hub of the Volkswagen Tiguan to replace it.

The whole process of replacing the hub on Tiguan, watch the video.

The topic is specially separate, since I am telling you that I was replacing only one spring, and not in pairs, as is commonly believed.

The procedure is simple: jack up, remove the wheel, unscrew the bolt (from my set of tools came the head for 18) fastening the wheel hub with the lever. The bolt needs to be twisted for a long time, the nut on the front side of the lever was first held with a 19 spanner wrench, and then, when the nut twisted, just twist the bolt for a long time until it appears all out. And when it disengages from the lever, the lever will jump down, bursting with the spring. Not much, but it will. The spring is removed, the rubber buffers are removed and placed on a new spring, the spring is inserted into the lever and into the upper spike. Then he lifted the rear suspension arm with a lever, placed a 100 * 100 bar with an additional gasket under it, then slipped another jack under the lever and lifted the lever until the rear bolt hole coincided first, screwed it in and then groped the front hole. For a hand fit, you need to tweak the rear hub. Screwed the bolt to the end, screwed on the nut, tightened everything. Voila.

It can be seen from the dirt at the places where the spring was broken that it broke not only yesterday, which means, most likely, I went with it like this for several days.
After installing the wheel, the right side was slightly higher. But I drove a few meters and, it seems to me, they leveled off, in any case, the difference is no longer noticeable.

The day before yesterday at work, I measured with a tape measure from the lower edge of the rear fender to the center of the wheel. The distance was 420 mm on both sides, maybe there were some 2-3 mm differences, but they can be attributed to the curvature of the edge of the rear wing, since the points from which I put a tape measure on different wheels were most likely not symmetrical.

But the photo shows a broken spring, a photo of a tag from a new original spring, a photo of a back lever unscrewed with a partially dropped spring, a broken spring removed with a lower gasket, a new spring installed with a lever already bolted to the hub.

the multi-link suspension has a big advantage over the beam used on previous generations of VW. It improves handling, stability and comfort. But due to the sheer amount of detail, it can also be a weak point.Natural wear and tear of any (of the many) silent blocks turns the "assembled" machine into a roll barge that responds to the rut and road profile.

The weak points in the rear suspension include the front wishbones.

They have the smallest silent blocks with long suspension travel.

The most annoying thing is that it is not very easy to calculate their wear if you do not know how to check, where to look and what needs to be seen there. To begin with, the wear of the silent blocks in these levers gives the wheel some freedom of movement relative to the body.

but you can't feel it on the suspended wheels. A stand under one lever will not help either.

only if you use two stops at once, you can unload these levers, and feel the bumpiness with your hands.

But there is another way to recognize a malfunction: hang the car and pull back the levers with a bar. Then you can see the peeling of the rubber

So, the verdict has been delivered. You can completely replace these levers on your own.

now in color pictures, and with slight simplifications. For example, it is not necessary to remove the springs at all.

-Before starting dismantling, it is necessary to clean and fill with a "liquid wrench" all the bolts

- the need to unscrew the stabilizer is due to the fact that the inner bolt abuts against it

but in fact, it is not necessary to unscrew the struts from the lever, the internal bushings are enough - from the body

by unscrewing the brackets, the stabilizer can be lowered, and it no longer interferes with removing the bolts

-Now you can unscrew the bolts of the levers

-take out the old levers, take out the new ones from the packaging. According to ELSA, they are symmetrical and non-symmetrical, i.e. left and right

before building, read ELSA again:

and again we pass from theory to practice:

-Selecting the correct lever, insert it into the frame

-If a new, but not the original, lever is installed, you can simplify the next replacement (which, of course, will soon be required) by inserting the internal bolts from the other side

-However, you first need to either shorten the bolt by 5 mm, or put another washer, otherwise the tip of the bolt will rest against the stabilizer

-insert the outer bolt. When the wheels are hanging, there is a divergence of the planes, so the bolt must be pulled down a little and at the same time push

- we press on several turns of the nut, but before tightening, you need to give the lever a position similar to the one loaded by the weight of the car

-that now you can tighten both bolts of the lever

-when both levers are hung out again, bait and tighten the stabilizer bolts

-Now you can tighten the wheels, lower the car and go straight to the camber / convergence stand. And rejoice that the car is going straight again, like a tram on the rails.

Setting the rear axle suspension to a position corresponding to the unladen weight of the vehicle

Required special tools, control and measuring devices, as well as aids

• Jack for engines and transmissions -V.A.G 1383 A-.
• Belt -T10038-.
• Bracket -T10149-.

All bolts of parts with silent blocks must be finally tightened when the suspension is installed in the position corresponding to the unladen weight of the car (the car is not loaded).

Rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) have a limited working range of twisting. Therefore, the suspension must be in a position corresponding to the vehicle's unladen weight (vehicle unloaded). Otherwise, internal stresses will arise in the silent block, which will lead to a decrease in the service life of this part.

The working position of the suspension can be simulated on a jack by lifting it on one side with the engine and transmission jack -V.A.G 1383 A- and the support bracket -T10149-.

Before lifting the suspension of the respective wheel, the vehicle must be secured with belts -T10038- on the lifting arms on both sides. Otherwise, it may slide off the lift!

1. Rotate the hub so that one of the wheel bolt holes is at the top.
2. Secure support -T10149- with wheel bolt.
3. The final tightening of the corresponding bolts / nuts should only be made when dimension -a- is reached between the center of the wheel hub and the lower edge of the wheel arch.

Dimension -a- depends on the installation height for the given chassis design:

There were three engines in the Tiguan family - a diesel and two gasoline. The petrol 1.4 TSi has recently become less and less in demand, and it has almost ceased to be installed. A small loss, since this engine, in addition, was reputed to be unreliable - it was capricious because of the poor quality of Russian fuel, or even broke down altogether: as a result of a timing chain jump, the pistons "fraternized" with the valves. The latter happened due to the unsuccessful design of the tensioner, which was devoid of blocking the counter-flow: with the engine stopped and, accordingly, zero oil pressure, the plunger did not interfere with getting away, leaving the chain hanging on the sprockets. At the next start of the engine, until the oil pushes the plunger into working condition, everything happened.

The other two engines - a diesel 2.0 TDi and a gasoline 2.0 TSi - turned out to be "smarter". And to the owners of a car with a 1.4 TSi engine, we will give a simple advice: in order not to provoke the tensioner, please do not leave a car with a manual gearbox in gear! Sometimes a slight slope is enough for the crankshaft to turn and sink the plunger.

The diesel fuel filter is installed under this cover (arrow). The manufacturer strongly advises against disconnecting the fuel pipes from the cap, as well as changing the filter yourself.

Please note that the main problem with engines with a factory index CLJA is precisely the failure of the fuel equipment. Therefore, before rolling up your sleeves, measure seven times: is it worth it?

Another source of problems is the timing belt. According to the regulations, it is supposed to be changed after 150 thousand km, but in reality they do not live so much. Do not rely on the instructions, but heed the advice of the masters: if they said that it’s time, then you need to change. You yourself are unlikely to start messing around, since the operation is not easy: you need to hang out the power unit and know a number of subtleties - we strongly recommend contacting specialists.

Fortunately, the replacement of the rest of the consumables was handled pretty quickly: a total of fifteen minutes was spent on glow plugs (sooner or later they will have to be changed), poly V-belt and oil.

But there is a serious complaint about changing the oil: the plastic lining of the engine has a transition to the oil filler neck in the form of a funnel, which collects all the dirt at the bottom. It is worth removing the plug, and all this rubbish strives to crumble into the oil cavity. Dealers first blow through the funnel with compressed air, but we simply advise you to remove the parasitic part - the rubber seal installed on the engine neck (see photo). Then the dirt will have nowhere to accumulate.

On a CAWA gasoline engine, it is also advisable to remove this seal - the design is similar. But here, in addition, there is a restrictor plate at the inlet to the throat, which makes it difficult to fill in a fresh portion of oil - it was because of it that the overall rating was lowered, although access to the filter is excellent.

When changing spark plugs, be careful with the connectors mounted on the common rail. They need to be disconnected sequentially, starting from the first cylinder, having previously submitted each of the pads towards the coil (otherwise you risk breaking off the retainer).

Although the common ramp with coil connectors has little flexibility, disconnecting the connectors is still inconvenient: removed and strives to snap back. Turnkey candles "16".

Replacing the fuel filter is more difficult, and most importantly, more expensive than when working with a diesel engine: a replaceable cartridge is not sold separately, it is replaced only in assembly with a fuel level sensor and pipes connecting the unit to the pump.But the main thing is that it is impossible to replace all this economy without dipping your hands into the tank - but how else can you disconnect the tips of the pipes? It is easy to understand that the difficulties arose due to the fact that the gas tank is divided into two halves by the cardan shaft. But why the filter cartridge is not supplied as spare parts, although it is fastened with the usual latches, remains a mystery.

A chain is installed in the timing drive, according to the regulations, it is supposed to change it (along with tensioners and dampers) every 180 thousand km. Here the manufacturer was reinsured. Considering that there are much more nuances and difficulties in such a mechanism than in a belt drive on a diesel engine, it remains only to wish you a happy journey to the service.

Replacing antifreeze is more difficult than usual because there are no drain plugs in the system. According to the technology, it is necessary to remove the lower pipes from the electric pump (on a diesel engine, in addition, and from the oil heat exchanger), squeezing the antennae of the corresponding plate clamps with pliers. It's a simple matter, but beware of a waterfall of a poisonous liquid: prepare precautions and a wide container to catch a wide stream in advance. To dilute the branded concentrate G12 plus plus, we use distilled water: for a temperate climate, mix in a 1: 1 ratio, and for a severe one (up to –40 ° C), add 3.2 liters of distillate to 4.2 liters of concentrate.

Being of sound mind, change the oil in the manual gearbox without any problems: the unit has a drain and a filler (aka control) plugs. But in the automatic transmission you will not find the usual dipstick: the level is checked through the turned-out plug of the overflow pipe: if at a temperature of 35–45 ° C (selector in position P) oil drips from the hole, then everything is normal. No - add a liter of fresh through the same hole and repeat the check. There are four plugs in the rear axle gearbox, since the unit is divided into two zones, with a separate crankcase for the Haldex clutch. Often these plugs get confused and get in trouble due to oil starvation of one of the mechanisms. Take a look at the photo, then you won't be mistaken.

Rear axle reducer plugs are shown with green arrows, and Haldex clutches are shown with red arrows. Of course, the filler plugs are upper, and the drain plugs are lower (formally, they are all disposable).

To access the front pads, you will need a Torx-45 - the design of the mechanism is exactly the same as in the Golf VI ( ZR, 2012, No. 5 ): with three-fingered plates we insert the inner shoe into the piston, and the outer one, which is without the plates, into the bed of the staple.

If the car has an electric handbrake, then it is better not to bother with replacing the rear pads, since you need the same "shaman" in the form of a dealer scanner - to use it to command the electric motors to sink the pistons. And after replacing the pads with it, calibrate the mechanism. Here's another goal for you in the garage door. And it’s not the first!

Igor Kozlov:

"Tiguan" immediately reminded me of the recent hero of this column - "Golf": as if he looked in the mirror. The ease of replacing the cabin filter, the V-ribbed belt and headlamps is negated by ill-conceived access to the headlights and fuel filter.

We are grateful to the Germanika company in Beregovoy proezd (Moscow)

for assistance in preparing the material.