DIY rear suspension repair vaz 21043

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-RaZoR- 29 Sep 2016

Hello everyone.
I have a vaz 21043 2002.
I bought three months ago.
When I bought the feeling of the chassis I don't really remember, but they were clearly better than now.
The body is in perfect condition. It doesn't smell like rot and rust!

The car is too tough.
I had the best walker in town. His diagnosis
Both front shock absorbers and one rear one are dead. Replacing all hub bearings and one half-shaft bearing. Top left hopper. One top support.

I told him that I only ride my ass on it and want to make it as soft as possible.
He said that the softness depends only on the shock absorbers and springs.
And advised Kayaba oil.

I bought all 4 oil coyabs.
Product codes 443123 and 443122
Set.
But the softness has not increased. all the same vibrations on irregularities.

I do not know what to do. brother has a spear 1973 onwards but she rides at times softer than mine, although the front amotras are leaking.

Tell me what else to do to make it soft

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AleksVL 29 Sep 2016

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-RaZoR- 29 Sep 2016

Yesterday I loaded about 300 kg into the car, so it drove much more comfortable than empty.

if you put the springs from the sedan, it will definitely become softer?
or do you need to change something else?

and if my springs are cut down, nothing will change?

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denis13 29 Sep 2016

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Rustem 29 Sep 2016

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andre34 29 Sep 2016

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denis13 29 Sep 2016

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andre34 29 Sep 2016

andre34, Stroke depends on the ammortspring ligament. I do not have a lot of experience kayaba ex-cel dzhiorlovskie springs = creepy creepy, kayaba ex-cel dzhikilenn spring machine naaam much better. At the same time, I did not lose the load in KG.
At the same time, I almost always had a full cylinder of LPG gas.

The springs were native, in good condition, the car did not carry cargo.
Naturally, all other things being equal, comfort / handling = shock absorber / spring bundle.
And the gas cylinder is also a plus for comfort, just fifty kilograms.

I just want to say what. The weight of the car is a bit big, I don't remember exactly. Payload 450 kg. And mainly on the rear axle. That is, the spread in mass is almost 50 percent. In such a range, comfort cannot be achieved by simple means. That is, you need to choose the most frequent load and slightly optimize the suspension for it, possibly worsening in other ranges.

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denis13 29 Sep 2016

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andre34 29 Sep 2016

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denis13 30 Sep 2016

First, remove the shock absorbers and select the springs to your liking. Then find collapsible shock absorbers and play with the viscosity of the oil and the diameter of the holes in the piston. But you need to understand - it will be very soft in the city on the highway, the car will need to be caught.

It will take a lot of money and the end result will still be a baaaal compromise.
Physics is not the smallest.

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Repair and maintenance of the rear suspension VAZ 2105. Dismantling and assembly, testing, diagnostics of malfunctions.

The rear suspension of the car is dependent, it includes a guide device, elastic elements and devices that damp body vibrations.

Rice. one. Rear suspension: 1 - spacer sleeve; 2 - rubber bushing; 3 - lower longitudinal bar; 4 - bottom insulating spring gasket; 5 - lower support spring cup; 6 - compression stroke buffer; 7 - bolt of fastening of the upper longitudinal rod; 8 - bracket for fastening the upper longitudinal rod; 9 - suspension spring; 10 - upper spring cup; 11 - upper insulating spring gasket; 12 - support spring cup; 13 - thrust of the rear brake pressure regulator drive lever; 14 - rubber bushing of the shock absorber eye; 15 - shock absorber mounting bracket; 16 - additional buffer of the compression stroke; 17 - upper longitudinal bar; 18 - bracket for attaching the lower longitudinal rod; 19 - bracket for attaching the transverse rod to the body; 20 - rear brake pressure regulator; 21 - pressure regulator drive lever; 22 - holder for the support sleeve of the lever; 23 - support sleeve of the lever; 24 - transverse bar; 25 - shock absorber

Guiding device. The rear axle beam is pivotally connected to the body by means of reaction rods: two lower 3 (Fig. 1) and two upper 17 longitudinal and one transverse rod 24. The longitudinal rods transmit pushing and braking forces from the driving wheels through the rear axle beam to the body, the transverse rod keeps the body from lateral displacement. The jet rods are attached to the body brackets and the rear axle beams through rubber-metal hinges, which are structurally identical and differ only in size. The hinge consists of a rubber bushing 2 installed in the rod eyelet, a spacer sleeve 1 that goes through the rubber bushing hole, a thrust washer and a rod fastening bolt.

The elastic suspension elements consist of coiled cylindrical springs 9, two main buffers 6 of the compression stroke and an additional compression buffer 16. Springs under a static load of 295 kgf are sorted into two groups A and B. Groups are marked similarly to the groups of springs of the front suspension, that is, group A - yellow stripe, group B - green. The spring mounted on the suspension is supported by its upper end on the support cup 10 through a rubber insulating gasket 11, which is located in a steel stamped cup 12 of the body. The lower end of the spring rests in the cup 5 of the rear axle beam through an insulating plastic gasket 4. The main buffers 6 are installed inside the springs and fixed with a mushroom nipple in the holes of the upper supports 10. An additional buffer 16 is installed on a bracket bolted to the bottom of the body.

The damping device consists of two hydraulic shock absorbers, the design of which is described below.

Withdrawal. Raise the back of the car and place it on the stands. Remove the rear wheels.

Disconnect the propeller shaft from the final drive pinion flange.

Disconnect the brake hydraulic hose from the steel tube installed on the rear axle support and take measures to prevent fluid from leaking from the hydraulic brake.

Disconnect the rear parking brake cable bracket from the body, remove the front cable retractor spring and, after unscrewing the locknut and adjusting nut, release the rear cable branch. Disconnect the rear brake pressure regulator drive rod from the axle beam bracket. Disconnect the upper ends of the shock absorbers.

Place a hydraulic jack under the rear axle beam.Disconnect the longitudinal and transverse rods from the brackets on the body, lower the jack and remove the axle.

Start disassembling the suspension:

- remove the shock absorbers from the brackets on the bridge beam;

- disconnect the longitudinal and transverse rods from the brackets on the bridge beam.

Rear suspension details are shown in fig. 2.

Rice. 2. Rear Suspension Parts: 1 - lower longitudinal bar; 2 - rubber bushing; 3 - bracket for attaching the lower longitudinal rod to the body; 4 - spacer sleeve; 5 - upper longitudinal bar; 6 - additional buffer of the compression stroke; 7 - spring; 8 - upper spring cup; 9 - compression stroke buffer; 10 - upper icholing spring gasket; 11 - shock absorber; 12 - bottom insulating spring gasket; 13 - transverse bar

Installation of the rear suspension is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

When doing this, install class A springs (with yellow markings) on the suspension. In exceptional cases, when there are no springs of this class, it is allowed to install springs of class B (with a green marking).

To avoid damage and over-tightening of the elastic bushings of the rods and shock absorbers:

- load the rear of the vehicle so that the distance from the axle beam to the side member of the body, measured 100 mm from the transverse bar bracket (Fig. 3), is 125 mm;

Rice. 3. Rear Suspension Installation Diagram: 1 - body spar; 2 - bracket for the transverse bar; 3 - rear axle beam; X = 125 mm

- use a torque wrench to tighten the nuts on the bolts of the longitudinal and transverse rods, as well as on the pins of the shock absorbers to the axle beam and to the body.

Rinse all parts thoroughly before checking.

Protect rubber parts, bushings and protective coatings from solvents when cleaning.

Check the elastic characteristics of the springs at the test points (Fig. 4), having previously pressed them three times until the coils touch.

Rice. 4. Basic data for checking the rear suspension spring

Note... The springs of the rear suspension of a VAZ-2104 car under a load of 3285 N (335 kgf) are divided into two groups: A - more than 278 mm long and B - with a length equal to or less than 278 mm. Springs of group A are marked with light brown paint, and group B - blue on the outside of the coils.

The springs of the rear suspension of a VAZ-2105 car are classified and marked in the same way as the springs of the front suspension.

Check for deformation of the springs. If the elasticity of the spring does not correspond to the data in Fig. 4 or deformation may cause malfunction of the spring, replace it.

Check the condition of the rubber spring supports; replace them with new ones if necessary.

- whether the rods are deformed; straighten them if possible;

- whether there are cracks on the brackets of the rear axle beam and body; if cracks are found, repair the brackets;

- the condition of the elastic bushings of the rod hinges; if necessary, replace them with new ones using a set of tools 67.7820.9517.

The repair of the VAZ 2106 chassis is similar to the same repairs on the VAZ 2107, so if you are the owner of a "seven", then this video instruction on troubleshooting a malfunction with the chassis, and more specifically the front suspension, will also work.

That for the VAZ-2106, that for any other classic model of Zhiguli such as 2104, 2107, running gear repair is not uncommon, then you have to hang around in the garage almost every weekend.

The chassis of the classic Lada consists of a front and rear suspension. In this case, the step-by-step instructions will demonstrate how to repair the front suspension of a running car.

Lada front suspension, independent two-link (2 levers, upper and lower on each side). They are connected to the steering knuckle by means of ball joints (simply ball joints). The front suspension also includes springs and a shock absorber. The lateral stability of the front suspension elements of the car is carried out by the anti-roll bar.

In addition to the most skills, you will naturally need a jack, a set of keys and a viewing hole will be useful.And also, before repairing the chassis, make a suspension diagnosis in order to determine what exactly needs to be replaced in the chassis of the car. Whether it's wheel bearing replacement or caliper repair / maintenance. Often we have to ascertain the wear of ball bearings or silent blocks. Also, springs and shock absorbers have to be changed from time to time. Well, a little less often than other elements of the front suspension, but still, when repairing the chassis, you have to replace the pendulum arm and jet rods. All the details of the above procedures can be clearly seen in the video.

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From: Milky Way Galaxy, Solar System, Planet Earth, Russia, Smolensk Region, Smolensk, Garaburdy Street
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Your car: Ford Focus II 1.8 sedan and ZAZ Chance 1.4 hatchback
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It behaves stably .. and in a compressed / extended state the length is the same .. but I think that you will not wait for a comfortable ride from the Plaza.

They are positioned as reinforced for our “wonderful” roads. If you go fast on the principle of "more speed, less holes", then they work out well. And if in normal mode, and not yet loaded to the eyeballs, then the tooth / crushing is complete - all the irregularities are given to the body by all kinds of booms.

If it's not a secret, how often is there something in your trunk besides amps and a subwoofer? For what purpose did you install reinforced springs?

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From: Milky Way Galaxy, Solar System, Planet Earth, Russia, Smolensk Region, Smolensk, Garaburdy Street
User #: 3 845
Thanks said: 378
Midrange team: I prefer to sleep at night
Your car: VAZ 21043 g / n U043VX67
Real name: Alexey

It behaves stably .. and in a compressed / extended state the length is the same .. but I think that you will not wait for a comfortable ride from the Plaza.

They are positioned as reinforced for our “wonderful” roads. If you go fast on the principle of "more speed, less holes", then they work out well. And if in normal mode, and not yet loaded to the eyeballs, then the tooth / crushing is complete - all the irregularities are given to the body by all kinds of booms.

If it's not a secret, how often is there something in your trunk besides amps and a subwoofer? For what purpose did you install reinforced springs?

Replacing the silent blocks of the front (lower and upper) levers on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107

Here, I wanted to immediately start the article directly from the process replacing the silent blocks of the front levers on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, but…. I changed my mind. Let's first define - what is silent block? And what role do silent blocks in suspension car.

Silentblock or rubber-metal hinge, is a unit consisting of two metal bushings and pressed, between them rubber (or polyurethane) inserts. To describe the main function silentblock it is enough to recall the origin of the name of the part itself. Silent (from English silent) translates as "quiet". That is, this part is designed to damp noise, vibration and shock in the moving joints of the vehicle's suspension units. That is, the detail is quite useful and important. And if during the next technical inspection of the car you notice - one-sided wear, through measured extrusion and deep cracks in the rubber silentblock (photo 1), then this article will be useful for you. And it's not worth postponing car repairs. Since faulty silent blocks of the upper and lower arms not only worsen the handling and comfort of the car, but also increase the wear of the front wheel protectors.

Let's immediately define the necessary tool. Or rather, with the necessary fixtures for replacing the silent blocks of the front levers on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107... Because it will be very difficult to do this work without them. And so, you can see all the necessary arsenal in photo # 2. What do we think about first of all? Well, of course, about the purchase of three devices for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks. Further, ball joint puller (after all, you will have to remove the upper lever from the car, as opposed to the lower one) and steering tip puller (for unpressing the extreme steering tips, for which it will become clear from further study of this article). This is about the main thing ... I think if you decide to do the work with your own hands, then you have the rest of the tool, such as a jack, 22 spanners and spanners, 13 spanners and spanners, a pry bar, a hammer and a well-sharpened thin chisel (to the latter must be taken seriously, since the silent blocks on the lower arm often stick to the axle and in this case, the chisel will give the last chance replace silent blocks without removing the lever from the vehicle).

After reading the above, I think you have already understood that silent blocks play an important role in the suspension of a car and their replacement is a laborious process. What conclusion can be drawn from this? Right. Do not skimp, buy only branded silent blocks... I will not deal with advertising (especially free), I will only say that you can pay attention to silent blocks firms SEVI and Track. An even better option is to buy and install on your car polyurethane silent blocks... But when you look at the cost polyurethane silent blocks, then the lower jaw does not arbitrarily begin to smoothly descend to the bottom 😉.

Have you bought it? Then further ... Let's start by replacing the silent blocks of the upper arms on the car VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 .

Loosen the wheel bolts and raise the required wheel with a jack. Then we remove it and with a 24 wrench release the nut on the axis of the upper lever (photo 3). You can immediately unscrew the steering tip nut and unpress it, see photos 5 and 6. Then, with a 24 open-end wrench, unscrew the nut on the upper ball joint (photo 4) and with a puller press the support pin from the bipod (if there is no puller, then the support can be simply unscrewed from the lever using a key pair at 13).

We unscrew the upper lever axle nut and take it out (on the VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2107 models, in order to pull the axle out, you will have to unscrew the vertical bumper bolt). We drag the lever to the workbench and clamp it in a vice.Now, with a previously purchased device for replacing the silent blocks, we press out and install the silent blocks of the upper arm. See photos 7 and 8. Install the lever in place, after having lubricated the axis of the upper lever (with engine oil, lithol, nigrol, in general, lubricate!) And do not fully tighten the axle nut. The tightening will be carried out with the car fully lowered to the ground. We fix the support. We dress and spin the wheel. We lower the car from the jack.

That's it, the upper arm is ready, let's move on to replacing the silent blocks on the lower arm of the car VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107.

We unscrew with a wrench 22 nuts of the lower arm axis (photos 9 and 10).

Install the puller (photo 11) and squeeze the silent block from the lower arm eyelet (photo 12 shows that if we had not removed the steering tip, it would not have been possible to install the puller).

We take out the old silent block, lubricate the axle and the thread with oil and insert a new one into the eyelet, photo 13 (you may have to center the axis and the eyelet of the lever with the help of a jack and a pry bar).

After that, we insert between the lever and the nut securing the axis of the lower lever to the beam, a thrust bracket (photos 14 and 15)

We install the device and press in the silent block (photo 16). We carry out a similar procedure with each silent block on the lower arms.

Do not forget to reinstall the steering tips and pin them. Next, tighten the upper and lower arm nuts with the vehicle fully lowered to the ground. According to the technology, they must be tightened with a loaded car, that is, four people in the car and 40 kg of cargo in the trunk. But if you do not have such an opportunity, then it will be enough if you ask a friend (preferably with a weight of 70-80 kg) to alternately sit on the left and right front fenders of the car while you tighten the nuts on the respective sides.

Welcome!
A car shock absorber is a very important thing in every car, because if there were no shock absorbers, the car would just bounce up and down. To prevent this from happening, shock absorbers were invented that allow you to keep the car exactly on the ground, extinguishing all vibrations from which the car sways.

Note!
To replace the rear suspension shock absorbers, you only need two "19" wrenches!

Question?
Which company do you prefer the classic rear shock absorbers and why? (Write the answer in the comments)

Summary:

Where are the rear shocks?
They are located next to the wheels and can be seen very easily by looking under the underside of the vehicle. The upper section of the shock absorber is attached to the underbody of the vehicle, while the lower section is attached to the bracket. So that you finally figure out where the rear shock is located, look at the photo below, which shows the lower attachment of the shock to the bracket.

When do you need to change the rear shock absorbers?

• They need to be changed when an oil leak appears on them, in connection with which they will be oiled.
• And it is also necessary to replace them in the event that they have already ceased to perform their main work "Damping vibrations when the car is moving."

Note!>
For more information on when the rear shock absorbers will need to be replaced, see the article titled “Checking Shock Absorbers for Functionality”!

Note!
The rear shock absorbers on the right and left sides are replaced in the same way, so the entire replacement process will only be shown on one shock absorber!

Withdrawal:
1) Before starting work, be sure to read the "Important!" at the very bottom of the article, maybe this will be useful to you.

2) After reading, proceed to the replacement. First, drive the car into the inspection pit, or lift it up with a lift.

Note!
If you will be doing work on a lift, then it is recommended to install some kind of support under the rear axle beam, and then slightly lower the car so that it rests on it.And all this is done so that the rear suspension is slightly loaded, otherwise it will be very problematic to remove the shock absorber!

3) Next, holding the bolt with one wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the bolt of the lower hinge with the second.

4) After that, slightly remove the bolt from the hinge and thereby remove the spacer sleeve indicated by the arrow from it.

5) Next, grasping the bottom of the shock absorber with your hand, slightly move it away from the bracket and, as a result, remove the distance sleeve from the bolt.

Note!
After the performed operations, completely remove the bolt from the lower hinge together with the washer!

6) Now climb to the top of the shock absorber, and then unscrew the nut that secures the upper hinge.

7) After unscrewing, remove the washer and the outer rubber bush of the hinge, which is indicated by the red arrow, from the stud.

Note!
In the event that the outer sleeve will be very difficult to remove, then you can not touch it at all and proceed to replace it further!

8) Next, pull the shock absorber by hand, thereby removing its upper hinge from the stud and together with it, the outer sleeve will be removed.

9) Then remove the inner pivot bushing from the stud.

10) Then, holding the shock absorber in your hands, remove the spacer sleeve indicated by the arrow from the lower hinge.

11) When the bushing is removed, in addition remove the two rubber bushings that sit in the lugs of the hinge.

Note!
Replace all deformed, as well as badly worn out bushings with new ones!

Installation:
1) Install the new shock absorber in the reverse order of removal.

Note!
Tighten both nuts that secure the upper and lower hinges of the shock absorber only at the moment when the suspension is loaded with the entire mass of the car!

Important!
Shock absorbers can usually be repaired, but if you do not have sufficient experience and tools, then it is best to repair shock absorbers in specialized auto repair shops - so to speak, give it to those people who have been doing this for a long time!

And also there is a small nuance in replacing the rear shock absorbers, but it lies in the fact that they need to be changed in pairs, that is, two at once. Why do you ask? The thing is that the characteristics of one new shock absorber can differ significantly from the second, even if the second shock absorber is completely functional!

Additional video clip:
To give you a more detailed understanding of the whole process of replacing rear shock absorbers, watch the video clip that you will find just below:

Description of the structure
Rear suspension - dependent with coil coil springs and hydraulic shock absorbers.
The rear axle beam is fixed to the body by four longitudinal (reactive) and one transverse rods on rubber-metal hinges of the same design (silent blocks).

The springs abut their lower ends through plastic gaskets into the cups welded to the rear axle beam, and their upper ends through rubber vibration-insulating gaskets into the body. The compression stroke of the springs is limited by cylindrical stops, which are part of the car body. Rubber buffers are installed on the ends of the stops.
An additional compression buffer is mounted on a bracket above the gearbox housing.
The shock absorbers are mounted on collapsible rubber-metal hinges - with the upper lugs to the studs on the body brackets, and the lower ones to the brackets on the rear axle beam.

1 - spacer sleeve;
2 - rubber bushing;
3 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
4 - lower longitudinal bar;
5 - lower support spring cup;
6 - compression stroke buffer;
7 - suspension spring;
8 - bolt of fastening of the upper longitudinal rod;
9 - bracket for fastening the upper longitudinal rod;
10 - lower longitudinal bar;
11 - bracket for the transverse bar;
12 - pressure regulator;
13 - pressure regulator drive lever;
14 - rear axle beam;
15 - upper longitudinal bar;
16 - additional buffer of the compression stroke;
17 - shock absorber bracket;
18 - transverse bar;
19 - shock absorber.

The opportunities that open up to the car owner allow you to transform any car, make it even better than it was before. Owners of domestic cars are also actively interested in such opportunities and are actively using them in practice. Today we will consider tuning the VAZ-21043, we will analyze the possible options that can be applied in practice.

In the process of tuning the well-known "four" from VAZ, most attention is paid to changing the body. Its design is no longer considered attractive and modern, now this angular shape looks outdated and unattractive. You can tune the body in several versions, which differ in cost and volume of work:

1. the easy one consists in replacing the radiator grille, tinting the windows, installing disks on wheels and Vihur skirts;
2. with an average body tuning, it will be necessary to install alternative optics, replace the body kit, think about the likelihood of ordering professional airbrushing and shaving, which consists in removing handles, locks and moldings;
3. deep, as you might guess, is the most difficult, expensive and time-consuming, because it requires changes in the body structure, for example, changing the roof level, reworking into a coupe, installing lambo doors.

Even an easy tuning option will transform the car's appearance. Glittering chrome on the body, solid tinted windows, rare or, conversely, ultra-modern wheel caps - and your car will already look decent on the road.

And if you take a more serious approach to the transformation of a domestic car and decide to "truncate" the body, then you can get a small-sized car on which you can deftly drift and easily maneuver. To get such a powerful baby, it is necessary to remove part of the passenger compartment and reduce the length of the propeller shaft. It is not worth hoping for significant fuel savings, consumption will decrease, but not as significantly as we would like. Now you need to do the electrical wiring, shift the brake lines, carefully close everything and repaint the improved body. Another drastic solution is to move the spare wheel to the trunk lid. But this design, as they say, is not for everybody.

The body structure can change not only in length, but also in height. Usually, the height of the passenger compartment is lowered by a maximum of 15 cm. This result can be achieved by cutting off the struts, changing the front bumper, as well as rear lighting. The exterior in this case changes dramatically. It will not be easy to get used to this size of the car.

If you are lucky enough to ride on perfect asphalt, then you can transform your VAZ-2104 in the rare Stance style. Its essence lies in the installation of short springs and discs of small diameter. A car with such changes is quite rare, so your VAZ-2104 can become a unique copy. A more popular form of tuning is body lift, which is the opposite of the Stance. Such a car can easily overcome bad road sections and even off-road terrain.

The controversial point is the need to strengthen the body support pads. This moment cannot be called mandatory, but it is still better if it is implemented. Nobody will get any worse from this. The installation of stiff springs, which is provided during the tuning process, requires reinforced metal. For the front suspension, you can choose springs from the Volga, and the rear shock absorbers can be taken from the Gazelle front end.

Seriously, you need to think about installing air bags that will not allow the body to swing, and will make the ride softer. Air bags are installed inside the springs. A similar element can be added to the lifted and standard body, its work will not change from this.

Body paint is an important element in any tuning. Still, this parameter is most striking and is able to distinguish any car. There are several ways to solve this problem. You can go the standard way and cover the body with ordinary paint with an interesting effect (metallic, chameleon, matte, glossy).One of the new solutions is liquid rubber. Such coloring will not only make the tuned car expressive, but also protect the body from external influences. Airbrushing can be used not only on expensive foreign cars, but also on models of the domestic auto industry. It is better to entrust such coloring to specialists who have extensive experience in this area and will be able to transfer any imagination to metal. Airbrushing requires compliance with the declared status, and if you have already chosen this method of transformation, then a clumsy roof rack, old wheels or a rusty trailer will make the car ridiculous and tasteless.

There is as much work to be done inside the car as outside. By internal tuning, we mean bleeding the engine, replacing the braking system and modifying the interior. But first things first.

Tuning of domestic cars is embodied not only in external changes, but also in internal ones. Believe me, there are many parts under the hood that need reorganization or complete replacement. The main element of any car - the engine - is primarily subject to tuning. If your car has a native power unit that has faithfully fulfilled its due date, then it is better to send it to a well-deserved rest, that is, to scrap metal. Still, the metal is pretty tired, and even physical deterioration takes place - these factors do not allow us to talk about further refinement and forcing. There is only one conclusion - the old engine, which has unscrewed several circles of the speedometer, must be replaced, and more work can be done on newer units.

A worthy replacement for the old engine will be a powerful unit taken from the VAZ-21213, its volume will be 1900 cm3. Its power can be increased from 79 to 120 horses, but it will take some effort and part with your hard earned. The forcing process consists in boring channels, grinding the intake manifold, installing cast pistons with a diameter of 82 mm. To change the valve timing, it will be necessary to purchase a new camshaft, with which it will be possible to lift the valves up to 10.8 mm.

When using a sports crankshaft by 88 mm and increasing the level of piston lift, it is possible to increase the volume of the power unit and facilitate the removal of the increased force that occurs during the combustion of the fuel-air mixture.

Installing a lightweight flywheel will allow you to reduce the loss of power, which is spent on spinning the motor. As a result, the car will pick up the required speed in a short time.

The exhaust and power system are also in need of modernization, which includes the installation of an air filter, a sports exhaust manifold and a straight-through muffler.

It remains to modernize the brakes, which are responsible for the safety of the driver, his passengers and other road users. Drum brakes, which are available on the rear axle in the VAZ-2104, are difficult to operate, and even not effective enough. Replacing them is a must; 13-inch ventilated disc brakes are well suited for this.

The effect of all external changes that have occurred with the VAZ-2104 will be irretrievably damaged by the outdated interior. Internal tuning is just as important as engine upgrades and bodywork. Everything can be very simple here. If the seats are in good condition but look shabby, the upholstery can be replaced. With enough funding, you can opt for leather material for the upholstery, but any other material will look good too. Carbon fiber décor is a great way to enhance the tuning effect and make the interior more expensive.