DIY repair of the rear suspension of a VAZ 2115

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear suspension of a VAZ 2115 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Rear Suspension Parts
1 - rubber-metal hinge
2 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm
3 - shock absorber casing
4 - compression stroke buffer
5 - casing cover
6 - support washer
7 - shock absorber cushion
8 - spacer sleeve
9 - shock absorber
10 - insulating gasket
11 - rear suspension spring
12 - lever connector
13 - the lever of the beam of the rear suspension
14 - shock absorber mounting bracket
15 - flange
16 - lever sleeve

The rear suspension beam Lada Samara 2 consists of two trailing arms 13 and a connector 12, which are welded together through amplifiers.

Right Rear Wheel Suspension
1 - suspension arm
2 - rubber-metal hinge
3 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm
4 - lever connector
5 - shock absorber

In the rear part, brackets 14 with lugs for attaching shock absorbers are welded to the suspension arms, as well as flanges 15, to which the rear wheel axles are bolted together with the wheel brake shields. In front, the suspension arms have welded bushings 16, into which the rubber-metal hinges 1 are pressed. Bolts connect the suspension arms with stamped-welded brackets 3 through the hinges, which are attached to the body side members with welded bolts.

Rear Suspension Parts
1 - rubber-metal hinge
2 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm
3 - shock absorber casing
4 - compression stroke buffer
5 - casing cover
6 - support washer
7 - shock absorber cushion
8 - spacer sleeve
9 - shock absorber
10 - insulating gasket
11 - rear suspension spring
12 - lever connector
13 - the lever of the beam of the rear suspension
14 - shock absorber mounting bracket
15 - flange
16 - lever sleeve

Video (click to play).

The suspension springs 11 of the VAZ 2113 rest on one end of the shock absorber cup 9, and the other, through an insulating rubber gasket 10, into a support welded to the inner arch of the body.

Shock absorber mount
1 - protective casing
2 - compression stroke buffer
3 - support washer
4 - an insulating spring gasket
5 - the upper support cup of the suspension spring
6 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod
7 - lower support spring cup
8 - shock absorber
9 - shock absorber mounting bolt
10 - the bolt of the axle of the wheel hub
11 - brake drum
12 - hub bearing
13 - wheel hub
14 - axis
15 - nut
16 - retaining ring
17 - dowel pin
B - point for orientation of the shock absorber

The shock absorber of the VAZ 2115 rear suspension is hydraulic, telescopic, double-acting. It is attached with bolt 9 to the trailing arm bracket. The upper mount of the VAZ 2114 shock absorber is pinned: the rod is attached to the upper support 5 of the suspension spring through rubber pads and a support washer 3.

Rear Suspension Shock Absorber Parts
1 - recoil valve nut
2 - recoil valve spring
3 - recoil valve plate
4 - washer
5 - recoil valve discs
6 - throttle disc of the recoil valve
7 - piston
8 - piston ring
9 - bypass valve plate
10 - the spring of the bypass valve
11 - limiting plate
12 - distance sleeve
13 - reservoir
14 - stock
15 - support of the compression buffer
16 - nut
17 - oil seal holder
18 - protective ring of the stem
19 - stuffing box
20 - reservoir sealing ring
21 - rod guide sleeve
22 - cylinder
23 - compression valve cage
24 - inlet valve spring
25 - compression valve plate
26 - throttle disc of the compression valve
27 - compression valve discs
28 - compression valve body
29 - rubber-metal hinge

Shock absorber parts Lada Samara 2.

A double-row angular contact bearing 12 is installed in the hub 13, similar to the bearing of the front wheel hub, but of a smaller dimension. Unlike the front wheel hub, where the inner ring of the bearing is installed on the hub with a guaranteed interference fit, the bearing 12 on the axle 14 has a transitional fit.

The front suspension of the VAZ-2114 receives the full load of the body, as well as not only the weight of the engine itself, but also the force of the load of the transported cargo. Therefore, this element must be very durable. Not many motorists know how the front suspension works, its elements, as well as the nuances of work.

The front suspension of the VAZ-2114 consists of many elements, but many motorists were faced with their repair separately, and not as a whole system. The front suspension assembly is changed if the vehicle is involved in a traffic accident and almost all of its components are destroyed.

So, it is worth considering what the front suspension of the car consists of, see what elements are included.

Vehicle suspension device

The device and decoding of the VAZ-2114 suspension elements:

Individual elements of the front suspension

Front suspension bottom view

As you can see from the picture above, the suspension is quite simple, but all the elements are interconnected and for repair and replacement, other parts often need to be disconnected. Therefore, we will consider the main elements of the front suspension separately, and also indicate the main purpose of the part.

Front suspension struts

The front shock absorber or the front suspension strut is one of the main elements. This part provides cushioning and absorption of uneven road surfaces. Also, all the effort that is in the car, including the load, falls on it.

Usually, with frequent loading or incorrect replacement of this element, it has an increased degree of wear. Therefore, all motorists need to know the structure and operating rules of the shock absorber strut.

Consider how the shock absorber strut is arranged, as well as all the structural elements:

Shock absorber strut device diagram

1 - compression valve body; 2 - compression valve discs; 3 - throttle disc of the compression valve; 4 - a plate of the compression valve; 5 - compression valve spring; 6 - compression valve cage; 7 - recoil valve nut; 8 - spring of the recoil valve; 9 - recoil valve plate; 10 - recoil valve disc; 11 - throttle disc of the recoil valve; 12 - piston; 13 - bypass valve plate; 14 - spring of the bypass valve; 15 - plunger; 16 - plunger spring; 17 - guide sleeve of the stem with a fluoroplastic layer; 18 - guide sleeve holder; 19 - an O-ring of the rack body; 20 - stem oil seal; 21 - oil seal holder; 22 - gasket of the protective ring of the stem; 23 - protective ring of the stem; 24 - nut of the rack body; 25 - support for the compression buffer; 26 - stock; 27 - spring cup; 28 - swing arm; 29 - stem restricting sleeve; 30 - rack body; 31 - cylinder; 32 - drain tube.

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Stabilizer - a suspension element that provides lateral stability while driving, especially when cornering... This part is the least likely to fail.

It is fixed on special silicone or polyurethane sleeves, which, as a rule, are consumables.

Front stabilizer bar mounted on the vehicle

The stabilizer is attached to the body, or rather the front side members by the central part, and the side elements enter the stabilizer post, which is attached to the lever.

It has a small stroke, which is precisely what contributes to the fact that the car has lateral stability.

The suspension arm is a suspension element that provides transmission and partial absorption of the impact of uneven road surfaces... It is made of high-strength metal, usually from XK-40 or XK-60 steel. With its high strength, this part can easily withstand high loads.The product is fastened with one end to the bracket, which is welded to the body, and the other to the ball joint.

The brake disc is the only element that is immediately part of two structural systems: the suspension and the brake part. It is connected to the suspension because a steering knuckle and a wheel are attached to it.

In the brake system, the friction of the brake pads is carried out against it, which in turn leads to a stop of the movement of the wheels and the car itself. Also, the brake disc is dismantled for repair and replacement of other suspension elements.

Brake disc on car

The ball bearing is one of the most basic elements of the entire vehicle structure. It is a balancer, and also withstands the entire load of the body, as well as the load... Therefore, the condition of the part should be monitored constantly, since if the hinge falls out, this can lead not only to falling out of the lever, but also lead to damage to the body and other suspension elements.

Ball joint on car

The ball joint is made of high-strength material that can withstand a total load of up to 2 tons.

But, the pressure of the entire body is distributed between the ball joints. Another function of this element is that it provides the angle of rotation and inclination of the wheels when changing the position of the steering wheel. It is at this moment that the load is the largest, since when turning, all the mass and pressure from the balance of all supports is transferred to one.

General view of the steering knuckle

The steering knuckle is the only element that is least susceptible to external factors and wear.... Therefore, its replacement is carried out quite rarely and mainly with physical damage due to an accident or wear of the wheel bearing seat.

In order to disassemble the suspension, you will need a lot of tools: a set of keys and heads, hammers, crowbars, pullers, and screwdrivers.

So, consider a short diagram of how to disassemble the suspension of a VAZ-2114 car:

The machine must be placed on a lift. Of course, you can use the inspection pit, but this is quite inconvenient and not entirely safe, since dismantling will be carried out on both sides at the same time.
The first step is to dismantle the caps (if any), disks and loosen the wheel bearing fasteners.
Next, we disconnect the ball joint, and also take out the steering rod.
Unscrew the mount and take out the stabilizer.
The next step is to dismantle the lever.
Remove the caliper.
We take out the outer CV joint from the hub.
The brake drum can now be removed from the steering knuckle mountings.
Dismantle the steering knuckle.
Remove the shock absorber strut assembly.
We disassemble the removed parts.
Assembly is carried out upside-down.

Thus, the entire suspension assembly can be replaced. In terms of time, the complete disassembly of the VAZ-2114 suspension will take approximately 8-12 hours, if there are no difficulties. Some "kulibins" to speed up the process, and if the suspension being removed will not be installed, they make it easier. It should be noted that this method is dangerous and contrary to safety precautions, especially if the motorist has never performed this process. Let's take a quick look at how the accelerated process works:

We unscrew the stabilizer.
We dismantle the upper mount of the shock absorber struts.
We turn off the steering rod and brake hoses.
Carefully unscrew the lever mount.
Suspension feeds down assembly.

Tuning suspension for VAZ-2114

Many motorists, in order to provide improved stability and maneuverability of the car, install a sports version of the suspension, both rear and front.

Manufacturers "ProSport" and "DVT-sport" offer a full version of the front part of the chassis, complete with a sports version. This kit is specially designed for the family of cars 2108-21099 and 2113-2115.

It fits perfectly into the seats, and is attached to the body without requiring alterations.The sports suspension has more stability and agility, and also withstands a suspension load 2 times greater than the standard. The cost of this option is about 30-40 thousand rubles.

Tuning suspension installed on the car

The device and repair of the VAZ-2114 front suspension is quite difficult and not every motorist can do. This article reviewed the device and the repair of the front suspension.

As you can see, there is a main group of parts that change with wear and tear, and there are also a number of parts that are considered consumable items and their replacement is carried out when the main components are repaired.

It is worth noting that suspension repair has a significant degree of threat, because the fall of one of the elements can lead to injury and even death. Therefore, when performing repair operations, you must be extremely careful. Also, many suspension elements are quite heavy, so you need to have an assistant on hand.

Each suspension performs the same role - it eliminates all kinds of vibrations, makes the ride softer. Plus, she is responsible for reducing the roll when entering corners. Trips become smoother, more accurate.

Considering the quality of our roads, the cars really cannot be envied, since the front suspension of the VAZ 2114 is experiencing unthinkable loads, exactly like the rear.

Some prefer the services of service centers, others make repairs to the VAZ 2114 suspension with their own hands. What exactly you choose - decide for yourself. Let's just say that it is not as difficult to repair or replace suspension elements on such a car as it might seem at first glance.

Today we will consider the device of the VAZ 2114 front suspension, as well as the nuances of its replacement. We will go a similar way with the rear suspension.

The circuit of this node includes a total of 16 elements:

Rubber-metal hinge (it serves as the main fastener to the body);
Bracket. It fixes the rear suspension arm to the body;
Shock absorber cover;
Compression stroke load buffer;
Casing cover;
Support washer;
Amorphous pillow;
Spacer sleeve;
One-piece spring;
Shock absorber;
Beam lever;
Isolation gasket;
Lever connection element;
Flange;
Rack bracket;
Lever bush.

Dismantling is carried out as follows.

Front design

The weakest point of the front suspension is the shock absorber struts. The main task falls on them, therefore the load is appropriate.

Many owners of VAZ 2114 dream of installing air suspension ... These are completely feasible fantasies, which, nevertheless, will require serious financial investments from you.

Therefore, if until you have accumulated enough money for pneumatics, and the knock in the front suspension of the VAZ 2114 does not give you rest, you will have to disassemble it, determine the causes of the malfunctions and assemble the entire structure back. How to do it? Let's tell you now.

If your own experience is not enough, it is not worth replenishing it, starting with similar work. It is better to immediately contact the specialists of a proven service station. It will cost additional money, but the result of the repair will fully justify itself. Driving a faulty car is definitely not a solution to the problem.1 - rubber-metal hinge;
2 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm;
3 - shock absorber casing;
4 - compression stroke buffer;
5 - casing cover;
6 - support washer;
7 - shock absorber cushion;
8 - spacer sleeve;
9 - shock absorber;
10 - insulating gasket;
11 - rear suspension spring;
12 - lever connector;
13 - rear suspension beam arm;
14 - shock absorber mounting bracket;
15 - flange;
16 - lever sleeve The rear suspension beam consists of two trailing arms 13 and a connector 12, which are welded together through amplifiers.In the rear part, brackets 14 with lugs for attaching shock absorbers are welded to the suspension arms, as well as flanges 15, to which the rear wheel axles are bolted together with the wheel brake shields. At the front, the suspension arms have welded bushings 16 into which rubber-metal hinges 1 are pressed. Suspension springs 11 are supported by one end on the shock absorber cup 9, and the other, through an insulating rubber gasket 10, into a support welded to the inner body arch.Right rear wheel suspension: 1 - suspension arm;
2 - rubber-metal hinge;
3 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm;
4 - lever connector;
5 - shock absorber1 - protective casing;
2 - compression stroke buffer;
3 - support washer;
4 - an insulating spring gasket;
5 - the upper support cup of the suspension spring;
6 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
7 - lower support spring cup;
8 - shock absorber;
9 - shock absorber mounting bolt;
10 - bolt for fastening the axle of the wheel hub;
11 - brake drum;
12 - hub bearing;
13 - wheel hub;
14 - axis;
15 - nut;
16 - retaining ring;
17 - locating pin;
B - point for orientation of the shock absorberThe rear suspension shock absorber is hydraulic, telescopic, double-acting. It is attached with bolt 9 to the trailing arm bracket. The upper mount of the shock absorber is pinned: the rod is attached to the upper support 5 of the suspension spring through rubber pads and a support washer 3.Rear Suspension Shock Absorber Parts: 1 - recoil valve nut;
2 - spring of the recoil valve;
3 - recoil valve plate;
4 - washer;
5 - recoil valve discs;
6 - throttle disc of the recoil valve;
7 - piston;
8 - piston ring;
9 - bypass valve plate;
10 - bypass valve spring;
11 - limiting plate;
12 - distance sleeve;
13 - reservoir;
14 - stock;
15 - support for the compression buffer;
16 - nut;
17 - oil seal holder;
18 - protective ring of the stem;
19 - stuffing box;
20 - reservoir sealing ring;
21 - rod guide sleeve;
22 - cylinder;
23 - compression valve cage;
24 - inlet valve spring;
25 - compression valve plate;
26 - throttle disc of the compression valve;
27 - compression valve discs;
28 - compression valve body;
29 - rubber-metal hingeA double-row angular contact bearing 12 is installed in the hub 13, similar to the bearing of the front wheel hub, but of a smaller dimension. Unlike the front wheel hub, where the inner ring of the bearing is installed on the hub with a guaranteed interference fit, the bearing 12 on the axle 14 has a transitional fit.DIAGNOSTICS, REPAIR, SUSPENSION RECOVERY
(DIAGNOSTICS, REPAIR, RESTORATION OF THE UNDERGROUND) CARRECORD by phone: (495) 979-5521; 8-963-979-5521.Rice. 4-20. Rear suspension details: 1 - rubber-metal hinge; 2 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm; 3 - shock absorber casing; 4 - compression stroke buffer; 5 - casing cover; o - support washer; 7 - shock absorber cushion; 8 - spacer sleeve; 9 - shock absorber; 10 - insulating gasket; 11 - rear suspension spring; 12 - lever connector; 13 - rear suspension beam arm; 14 - shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 - flange; 16 - lever sleeveThe rear suspension beam consists of two trailing arms 13 (Fig. 4-20) and a connector 12, which are welded together through amplifiers.In the rear part, brackets 14 with lugs for attaching shock absorbers are welded to the suspension arms, as well as flanges 15, to which the rear wheel axles are bolted together with the wheel brake shields. In front, the suspension arms have welded bushings 16, into which the rubber-metal hinges 1 are pressed. Bolts connect the suspension arms with stamped-welded brackets 3 (Fig. 4-21) through the hinges, which are attached to the body side members with welded bolts.Rice. 4-21. Right Rear Wheel Suspension: 1 – suspension arm; 2 - rubber-metal hinge; 3 - bracket for fastening the suspension arm; 4 - lever connector; 5 - shock absorberRice. 4-22. Shock Mount: 1 – protective cover; 2 - compression stroke buffer; 3 - support washer; 4 - an insulating spring gasket; 5 - the upper support cup of the suspension spring; 6 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod; 7 - lower support spring cup; 8 - shock absorber; 9 - shock absorber mounting bolt; 10 - bolt for fastening the axle of the wheel hub; 11 - brake drum; 12 - hub bearing; 13 - wheel hub; 14 - axis; 15 - nut; 16 - retaining ring; 17 - locating pin; B - point for orientation of the shock absorberSprings 11 (see Fig. 4-20) of the suspension are supported by one end on the shock absorber cup 9, the other, through an insulating rubber gasket 10, into a support welded to the inner arch of the body.The rear suspension shock absorber is hydraulic, telescopic, double-acting. It is attached with bolt 9 (Fig. 4-22) to the trailing arm bracket. The upper mount of the shock absorber is a pin: the rod is attached to the upper support 5 of the suspension spring through rubber pads and a support washer 3.Shock absorber details are shown in fig. 4-23.Rice. 4-23. Rear Suspension Shock Absorber Parts: 1 – recoil valve nut; 2 - spring of the recoil valve; 3 - recoil valve plate; 4 - washer; 5 - recoil valve discs; 6 - throttle disc of the recoil valve; 7 - piston; 8 - piston ring; 9 - bypass valve plate; 10 - bypass valve spring; 11 - limiting plate; 12 - distance sleeve; 13 - reservoir; 14 - stock; 15 - support for the compression buffer; 16 - nut; 17 - oil seal holder; 18 - protective ring of the stem; 1 9 - stuffing box; 20 - reservoir sealing ring; 21 - rod guide sleeve; 22 - cylinder; 23 - compression valve cage; 24 - inlet valve spring; 25 - compression valve plate; 26 - throttle disc of the compression valve; 27 - compression valve discs; 28 - compression valve body; 29 - rubber-metal hinge

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In the hub 13 (see Fig. 4-22) there is a double-row angular contact bearing 12, similar to the bearing of the front wheel hub, but of a smaller dimension. Unlike the front wheel hub, where the inner ring of the bearing is installed on the hub with a guaranteed interference fit, the bearing 12 on the axle 14 has a transitional fit.POSSIBLE MALFUNCTIONS, THEIR CAUSES AND CORRECTIVE ACTIONSHello dear, blog readers. Today I want to talk about the rear beam silent block - the ease of replacement on vaz cars when repairing with your own hands.Silent blocks and various suspension parts from the factory are quite reliable, they serve for a long time. Usually, their longevity depends on how you operate the car, service it and, as a rule, is enough for 80-90 thousand kilometers.Let's first look at the signs of wear on the rear beam bushings. When cornering, the car loses its stability, uneven tire wear occurs. Or, when driving over holes and bumps on the road, there are blows to the body and an unpleasant creak in the rear of the car.Unpleasant driving sounds can also occur with other malfunctions. Knocks can come in one place, but are heard in another, especially along the way, they are heard in the rear of the body. Therefore, first you need a thorough diagnosis of the entire rear and front suspension: you have to check the struts, bearings, bearings, muffler, etc.Having finally made sure that it is the rubber silent blocks that are extremely worn out, we proceed to replace them. Fortunately, compared to foreign cars, replacing the rear suspension silentblock for VAZ "nines" or "ten" cars is distinguished by its simplicity and low cost.To begin with, we will buy rubber bushings "fungi", that is, silent blocks on the rear beam in a car shop. For cars VAZ 2108; 2109; 21099 you need to purchase silent blocks with the design number vaz 2108-2914054-10, and for vaz 2110 cars; 2112; 2114; 2115, the design number of the VAZ 2110-2914054 is prescribed.These silent blocks of these cars are difficult to distinguish from each other, because they are very similar, but different in outer diameter (see the difference in the photo). You will not be able to install silent blocks from the "nine" VAZ 2109 on the beam "tens" of the VAZ 2110, as they will dangle. But from the "dozens" rubber bush, if you try, you can press the "nines" into the beam.Step-by-step replacement of rear beam silent blocks on VAZ 2108 cars; 2109; 21099; 2110; 2112; 2114; 2115:

1. Replacement of silent blocks should be carried out on an overpass, inspection pit or lift, having installed the machine in a way available to you.

2. Remove the rear wheel so it doesn't get in the way.

3.On the left side, disconnect the rear brake pressure regulator rod from the beam (see photo number-1.), On the right side, remove the parking brake cable (see photo number-2.)
4. With the key on "19" we unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the rear beam to the bracket (see photo number-3)
5. We shave off the fastening bolt with a hammer, and then knock it out with a knob (see photo number-4.)
6. Next, raise the car body with a jack and move the beam eyelet down
7. Insert a wooden block between the body and the beam.
8. With a hammer, using a punch, we knock out the rubber bushings of the rear beam
9. Having cleaned the seat from dirt, rust, grease abundantly with thick soapy water and grease the rubber sleeve itself
10. Using the tool, press in the sleeve. If there is no device, then we hammer it with a hammer, hitting the hat of any suitable bolt inserted with a washer of a larger diameter, but so that the washer fits snugly against the rubber
11. Then we take out the wooden block
12. We raise the beam with a jack and put on our own fastening bolt, then we bait the nut
13. Putting the rear wheel down, lower the car
14. We open the tailgate, then sitting on the bumper, with all our weight we press the back of the car as far as possible
15. Tighten the mounting bolts of the silentblock until it stops

Actually, the work itself does not seem to be difficult if there is a puller. And if it is not there, what to do then? Therefore, I am writing for those who repair a VAZ car with their own hands. There is no need to complicate the task if you do not have a special puller. Listen to the advice of car mechanics: do not fool your head and knock out - hammer the silent blocks on the beams with a hammer.