Do-it-yourself repair of the rear pillars of the VAZ 2114
In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear pillars of a VAZ 2114 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Car safety comes first. This applies to both foreign cars and the favorites of the domestic auto industry. VAZ 2114 is a domestic legend, the repair of which is convenient and simple. The main thing is to know what to do. A common problem with "fourteenths" is associated with the rear shock absorbers. Competent step-by-step instructions are the key to a high-quality replacement of racks.
Tools and parts are essential. Replacing the rear pillars of the VAZ 2114 will require the following "arsenal":
new shock absorbers;
jack;
a set of keys. Especially useful are 17 and 19 mm;
special keys for fixing and removing wheels;
vise and stripper;
hammer and pliers.
The choice of racks deserves special attention. Their varieties:
Oil. Traditional option. Soft and comfortable. Suitable for quiet driving;
Gas. Tough and expensive. Not suitable for every occasion;
Gas-oil. A kind of compromise between the previous options. Very common.
The choice entirely depends on the preferences of the owner and the size of his wallet. Armed with everything you need, you can proceed to the direct replacement of the C-pillars.
Everything will come out cheaper with your own hands. The sequence is as follows:
Preparing the place and tools. The surface on which the vehicle is located must be level. A pit is desirable but not required. Without it, work will be carried out in a supine position. For safety reasons, we install wheel chocks or pads on the front wheels. To be sure, you can even turn on the speed;
Loosen and remove the wheel bolts. A 19 mm wrench is required. Before direct repair, all nuts can be treated with penetrating grease (WD-40, by the way, here are the recipes) - this saves time and effort;
We put a jack and raise the rear of the VAZ 2114, after which we remove the wheels. We work with the jack carefully and carefully !;
We open the trunk and remove all unnecessary things. A rubber plug "hides" under the shelf - remove it with a screwdriver. A stem with a screwed nut is located behind the plug. You can unscrew it with a 17 mm L-shaped wrench and a special wrench for fixing the stem. If there is no key, then pliers will do; Next, remove the support washer (with a magnetic handle)
Video (click to play).
We unscrew the nut fastening the shock absorber to the beam; you will need two 19 spanners. We remove the bolt that secures the strut to the beam. If it does not work, we knock it out with a smaller bolt. Carefully remove the shock absorber from its seat and remove the entire rack (it may fall, be sure to support it).
Important: do not forget to get the stuck insulating gasket (this often happens) from the inside of the glass, which is placed on the spring (see photo).
We remove the spring, remove the spacer sleeve and shock absorber cushion. We remove the cover from the casing. Remove the compression stroke buffer (bump stop) from the stem.
After that, we take a new rack with a fully extended stem (otherwise nothing will work) and put a casing, a bumper, a cover, a pillow and a bushing on it. The spring and gasket are placed last. Advice: before installing, it is worth "pumping" the shock absorbers, as this greatly increases the efficiency and service life. "Pumping" is carried out by overturning the structure. At the same time, the oil spreads throughout the entire part;
We install the new structure in the reverse order. Difficulties can arise here. There are situations when the rack simply "does not want to climb" into its rightful place. This can be corrected by raising the beam with a jack;
We fix the stem with a nut and fix it with a gasket. We twist all the nuts;
We put the wheels in their place and remove the jacks;
We repeat the above steps from the other side.
That's all. The withdrawal procedure was successful. Each step is important - there is no point in skipping at least one. There are some withdrawal features that you should be familiar with.
Before direct installation, we carefully examine the purchased spare parts and process them with kerosene. Broken and unusable items are not needed for repair;
A number of professionals believe that the final tightening of bolts and nuts does not require the participation of a jack;
Checking the struts can be carried out using the camber-toe method. This method increases the service life and increases the ride comfort;
There are special stands where you can check the replacement result. The price of the service is small. At the same time, one's own skill and skill are tested;
Do not worry if the journal bearing does not come out with the strut when it is removed.
A popular question is: How often do you need to change parts? There is no single answer. Vehicle operating conditions, parts quality and personal skill are key success factors. If the car owner likes to “pick up” potholes and holes, then the moment of repair will inevitably approach. It is also obvious that if there are "symptoms" of a malfunction (thuds, fluid drip or spring deformation), then you should not hesitate.
The process is simple. You just need to clearly know what and when to do it. Competent selection of tools and spare parts is half the battle, and step-by-step instructions that allow you to carry out repairs yourself will help you complete what you started. Take care of yourself and your car, because health and life are the most valuable things we have.
Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.
Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:
Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.
If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.
Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.
In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.
If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.
This is what a repairable rack looks like.
Compressed air compressor or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
Special connection for compressed air injection.
Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.
The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical.It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem.
For convenience, the work is carried out in a vice
Use a pressure gauge for control. The method is suitable for gas and gas-oil racks