DIY shoe backs repair

In detail: do-it-yourself shoe backs repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This type of repair work is performed with through wear or tear of the lining in the heel of the shoe.

Repair of the lining of the heel of shoes or low shoes consists in attaching, gluing and molding an inner soft heel, followed by gluing in a half insole or insole. Soft inner backs are cut out of lining leather materials with a thickness of 0.5 to 1.5 mm or from artificial leather (when repairing model shoes, soft backs from artificial leather are not used).

The length of soft backs should be equal to the length of the worn section of the lining with an allowance of 8-10mm on both sides. Internal backsides are lowered along the upper and lateral edges to a width of 4-5 mm to a thickness of 0.5-0.6 mm. In the lower edge of the soft backs, 3-5 cuts are made of a triangular or oval shape with a depth of 10-12 mm. Soft heels should not have defects that affect the appearance of the shoe and worsen its performance.

Insert insoles and half insoles are pre-folded to the inner side or, if unsuitable for further use, removed. Soft heel pads, regardless of suitability, are removed from the shoe. The edges of the worn areas of the heel lining are leveled and glued to the rigid heel counter. Soft heels are attached to the heel of the shoe with an overlay, if the upper edge of the heel lining was trimmed, and in an inversion, if the upper edge in the lining was originally processed in a hem or an inversion.

In the first case, soft backs are applied evenly, without shifts and distortions, with the non-front side inward on the lining of the heel of the shoe and attached with a single-row seam to the upper edge of the heel. When soft backs are attached to an inversion, their upper edge is placed with the front side on the upper edge of the heel lining for a width of 5-7 mm and fastened with the last single-row seam. The seam fastening the soft heel to the heel of the shoe should run along the line of the original edging line, go over the lateral edges of the soft heel by 8-10mm on both sides, be even, well-tightened; the ends of the threads should be trimmed neatly. Machine sewing frequency 4-5 stitches, manual sewing 3-4 stitches per 10mm seam.

Video (click to play).

Stitched soft backs over the entire surface from the front side and the heel of the shoe from the inside are coated with a thin even layer of rubber glue. After 5-10 minutes of drying, the soft backs are folded or turned inside the shoe, pressed tightly to the heel and glued over the entire surface. Soft heels should fit snugly to the heel of the shoe, be well formed, free from folds, wrinkles and bulges on the surface. In the lower part, the heels should extend to the surface of the main insoles by a width of 10-12 mm, be evenly laid and firmly glued to the main insoles. The upper edge of the soft backdrops in the process of attachment to the inversion is carefully beaten, and overlap is cut evenly without burrs and damage to the upper of the shoe.

The bent part of the insoles, half insoles or new insoles and half insoles, as well as the bent edge of the soft inner backs and the corresponding part of the main insoles are coated with an even thin layer of rubber glue; after drying for 5-10 minutes at a temperature of 18-20 ° C, insert insoles, half-insoles or heel cushions are glued to the main insoles without shifts, folds and wrinkles.

Internal leather straps of boots and boots, depending on the nature of wear, are fully or partially replaced.In boots and boots lined with natural or artificial fur in the worn heel, cut off hair with curved scissors, glue on soft backs or inner belts made of lining leather and attach on a sewing machine with a single-row stitch running in the boots along the upper edge, in boots - along the middle vertical lines.

Patches cut from lining materials corresponding to the lining of shoes are glued to the worn-out areas of leather, fur or textile lining of boots and shoes. In leather and fur patches, the edges are lowered along the perimeter by a width of 6-8 mm to a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm.

Then the edges of the leather lining are cleaned, and in the fur lining the fur is cut to a width of 10-12 mm along the entire perimeter of the patch stickers. The edges of the leather, fur and textile lining on the front side and the patch on the non-front side are coated once with an even thin layer of glue and dried for 5-10 minutes at a temperature of 18-20 ° C.

The patches are glued to the repaired areas so that the edges of the patches coincide with the prepared and glued edges of the lining.

The heel part of the shoe is prepared for inserting a soft heel as follows: remove the heel pad or peel off the heel part of the insole (half insole). The edges of the lining in the worn-out area are leveled with a knife or scissors until a smooth outline of the worn-out area is obtained.

If the lining has separated from the hard backing, it is glued. From the lining leather, which is uniform in color and type of the repaired lining, a soft back is cut out in shape (Fig. 38). The height of the heel should be equal to the inner height of the heel of the shoe with the addition of 14-16 mm, and the length should be equal to the length of the worn-out area, also with the addition of 14-16 mm. 3-5 teeth are cut out along the lower edge for more convenient bending of the heel edge at the heel rounding. The upper and both lateral margins of the backdrop descend to zero to a width of 4–5 mm. If the leather lining in the heel portion is badly worn, the worn portion is cut out in the form of a strip located symmetrically to the back seam of the workpiece. To do this, a seam is poured along the upper edge of the heel, two vertical cuts are made on a leather lining, separate it from the heel and cut off at the insole edge. In this case, the length of the soft backing is taken to be equal to the length of the cut out part of the leather lining with the addition of a 14-16mm allowance.

Read also: DIY ultrasonic bath repair

Rice. 38. The shape of the soft backdrop

The leather lining and the hard heel of the shoe on the surface corresponding to the glued-on soft heel are cleaned of dirt, glue residues and lightly sanded with a sandpaper.

If the upper edge of the leather lining is processed into a fold, then the upper edge of the soft back should also be folded, that is, processed into an inversion. To do this, the upper edge of the soft heel from the front side, and the upper edge of the heel of the shoe from the inside is coated with rubber glue. The glue is dried and the soft backing is glued to the edge of the shoe with the edge of the front side; gluing width - 3-4 mm.

The shoes are put on the platform of the sewing machine and the soft heel is attached with one stitch. The line should follow the line of the top piping; its frequency is 5-8 stitches per 10 mm of seam length. The needle thread should be the same color as the top of the workpiece, and the shuttle thread should match the color of the leather lining. Needle No. 85-90.

The seam should go 3-4 stitches outside the soft backing at both ends.

After stitching the soft heel and knocking off the seam, the non-front side of the heel, the inner surface of the heel of the shoe and the part of the insole adjacent to the hard heel are coated with a thin even layer of rubber glue. The glue is dried, the soft back is folded along the upper edge, glued to the heel of the shoe; the lower edge of the soft backing with cut corners is folded onto the insole and glued to it (Fig. 39a).

Rice. 39. Schematic sections of the soft backing: a - with a bent upper edge; b - with a trimmed top edge

First, hammer the upper edge of the heel along the bend line, and then the entire lateral surface of the heel of the shoe.

A heel pad is glued into the shoes or a previously bent insole (half insole) is glued, covering the bent lower edge of the soft back with them.

If the upper edge of the leather lining is trimmed, then the upper edge of the soft backing is also trimmed. In this case, the processing is carried out in the following order: the padded surface of the soft back, the inner surface of the heel of the shoe and the adjacent part of the insole are coated with rubber glue and dried. The soft back is glued into the shoe so that it covers the worn-out area with an allowance of 6-8 mm on each side. The upper edge of the soft heel should slightly (up to 2mm) protrude beyond the edge of the shoe, and the teeth of the lower edge of the heel should be folded onto the insole. The upper edge of the glued-in heel is attached to the shoe with one stitch, which should follow the line of the top piping.

The heel of the shoe is beaten, after which the allowance of the soft back is cut off flush with the upper edge of the shoe (Fig. 396). If the leather lining is worn out in a small area, you can limit yourself to a patch. The patch is selected in the color of the leather lining from a material homogeneous with it, cut out with an allowance for the worn-out place of 6-8 mm. From the top side, the patch should reach the top edge of the workpiece. The edges of the patch are lowered to nothing, the patch is glued with rubber glue, and its upper edge is sewn with one line. The method of making such a patch is basically the same as the described method of inserting a soft backing.

Despite the fact that there are many shoe repair shops, sometimes people prefer to do the repair themselves. This is due to the fact that the services of craftsmen are far from cheap, and even not always of high quality. Would you say it's easier to throw out your old shoes or boots? This is not true. Materials are inexpensive, and craftsmen who know how to repair shoes with their own hands can significantly extend their life.

Some people who are familiar with the basics of shoemaking make their own adhesive mix. For example, it perfectly glues acetone with nylon. Hand-made production of rubber glue is a complicated matter that requires significant temperatures, therefore it is easier to purchase a ready-made one.

Sometimes regular “Super Glue” is used to repair shoes at home. It is important that the shoes are absolutely clean and dry. The boot is glued, after preheating the composition with a construction hair dryer. And professional craftsmen do not like molecular glue, since it sets tightly, and it can be quite problematic to fix an accidental flaw.

Important! In workshops, professional solutions are used, such as “Nairit” or “Desmakol”. There are numerous formulation options with various additives. Professionals often use Rapid. However, it is unlikely to be suitable for home repairs, since it is sold exclusively in bulk.

In order to replace the heels on boots or shoes, use a special metal foot or some kind of fixation device.

Use heels with a pin-nail.
To make them sit stronger, the pin is lubricated with superglue.
If the diameter of the nail does not match the heel sleeve, the pin is slightly sharpened or expanded by hitting with a hammer.
After the heel is installed, it is grinded with a special stone or drill, exactly to the thickness of the heel.

This is a rather complicated procedure, and if you are not sure that you will follow it carefully, contact the wizard.

Installing a heel on a wide heel is much easier:

It can be attached to the “Super-glue” after heating it with a hair dryer.
If the heel is leather or wooden, use the "Nairit" composition, and it is applied to both surfaces.Then, after waiting a little, connect and fix both parts.

How carefully the shoe is glued depends on its appearance and how long it will last after repair. For all its seeming simplicity, it is difficult to properly glue the shoes in order to repair the sole. The workshop has special tools for this. However, in some cases, you can use the means at hand.

The parts are preheated and only then glued together. Already repaired shoes are kept in a warm room for 24 hours. Only in this case the sole will hold firmly enough.

You can also repair shoes with your own hands using “liquid leather”. This is useful if the upper is worn out or if you stumbled unsuccessfully.

If the skin is seriously torn, but first the product is glued from the inside with gauze or bandage. This is necessary so that the seam made with “liquid leather” does not come apart. The further procedure is as follows:

Shoes are washed, dried, cleaned of lint and scraps of leather.
The place of repair is degreased (any detergent will do).
The composition is selected according to the shade.

Important! Sometimes, in order to achieve the desired color, several multi-colored compositions are mixed. In this case, you can use a special table.

Apply “liquid skin” to the surface to be repaired using a paintbrush. If you press the surface with a piece of leather, you get a realistic relief.
In case of inaccurate application or color mismatch, the composition can be removed within half an hour. Then they wait until the surface is dry, and the composition is reapplied.

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This detail is a very important part of the shoe, as it shapes the heel and protects the feet from external mechanical influences.

Hard shoe back should be made of leatherboard or black-backed leather.

But, recently, in order to facilitate the process of making shoes and reduce its cost, the inner heel counter was made of thermoplastics and granitol, which, in turn, leads to a rapid violation of the shape of the backdrop.

Soft shoe heel or otherwise pocket.

This is the part of the shoe that is located in the heel of the shoe.

This heel counter is necessary to protect the heel from chafing with the hard heel counter.

And also protects against rapid wear of fabric or fur in the heel.

According to the technology, the soft backdrop should be made of leather.

The back of the shoe is external.

A critical part of the shoe that covers the heel.

In austere classic footwear, the outer backdrop may not be seen, but in shoes that require increased wear resistance, the outer backdrop will be present.

Such shoe back most often it is made of the same material from which the shoes are sewn.

In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.

I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.

Thank you, it was very informative and understandable, I think that even I can cope with such a task, only I hear the name of such glue for the first time, and the rubber moment for shoes is not suitable for this purpose? And if it fits, then you need to glue it with a hair dryer or according to the instructions. A master class on heels made of polyurethane, as well as prophylaxis on the soles, would not hurt.

The glue will not hold the sole moment, it can only glue leather and rubber. "Moment" glue does not adhere synthetic materials.

Soon there will be a master class on heels and preventive measures, I will show and teach you how to do it!

Thank you for your answer, but you can suddenly add a photo of a bottle of glue wherever it comes across. And as for the selection of bread from the masters, so I think so, why pay someone money for something that you can do yourself. Moreover, there are such cases where you cannot contact workshop (for example, in the village), and thanks to your master class, you can repair yourself

The glue is called "Dismakol". It is sold in a shoe store for shoemakers. There are shops that sell shoe repair materials. Such shops should be in all cities. The bottle may not be there. For example, I buy on tap.

Thank you very much! We, women on heels, really need MK. Will wait. And this one, with your permission, I am dragging to my bins.

Or can you tell me how you can remove a cut on a leather jacket, otherwise we don't even have a sensible atelier?

Where is the cut? Take a picture and show, please.

Sorry to wedge myself into this conversation. My sister came to visit, and they cut her cloak on the bus, apparently they wanted to steal the money. So we racked our brains with her how to glue it so that it was not noticeable and came up with it, she wore it for a long time. First, we connected the incision and sealed it on top with ordinary transparent tape to fix this cut. Then, on the reverse side of the skin, at the place of the cut, they glued a pharmacy scotch tape on a rag basis, our Soviet one (it sticks tightly). Again, turn the skin on the face, remove the transparent tape, and grease the place between the two skin incisions with glue over the skin and press the sections together. When dry, you can walk a little with shoe polish in color, the cut is not visible. After that, I help to reanimate all leather clothes for myself, for children, and friends. Of course, experts do not do this, but as an option I really like this method. Once again, I'm sorry for getting in, but I think it might come in handy if I could explain it clearly.

Thanks, I will take note of your method :)

Well Shumaher, you just give out all the secrets of shoemaking) You literally take bread from the masters!

If everyone learns how to make shoes at home, then why are shoe repairmen needed?

I am not greedy! Whoever was lazy before will not do anything himself after my lessons!

You can take away the bread from a real master!

Cool, just super, thank you very much for the detailed MK, just the boots broke in the same way, you can't put it on, but it's a pity to throw it away

Hooray! My favorite, comfortable boots - to live !, probably

Now I want to try it myself, I won't carry it for repairs. Thanks to the master!

such an MK is affordable! Thanks!

just tell me what kind of glue you can use?

Many thanks for such an understandable (even to blondes, far from shoemaking) MK! Can you tell me how to paint the tattered plastic heels of the boots and shoes, it’s a pity to throw away expensive boots .. but I don’t want to wear the tattered ones either ..

You were just in time, Monday or Tuesday, I was going to release an MK on heel painting, so wait a bit!

Thank you very much, because this is a "sore subject" - how many excellent boots are sent to the trash just because of the peeled heels, and for some reason in the workshops they do not always undertake to paint .. I will look forward to it!

Thank you so much for such an understandable MK! You are a true master of your craft.

Thanks! Everything is very clear step by step, concise and intelligible! Without unnecessary unnecessary phrases, everything is just to the point. And the shot is very clear and you can see what and how.

Thank you. Excellent! And don't worry about the “bread” - I wanted to repair it myself, but now, having looked carefully, I realized that I could just ruin my boot, it’s better to the master, but we don’t have it. We'll have to ask someone to take them to the nearest settlement with a craftsman, a knife and glue. Thanks for saving my boot!

Hello! There was such a problem: a perforated leather ballerina was torn at the sole. Can it somehow be repaired, or is it over? Mk on the Internet on patches for perforated shoes I can not find

one of the ways to replace backdrops without pads
materials: formed leather-cardboard backing, Nairit glue, lining leather.

Do you have a piece of leather or leather, and where can you buy it?

And not simpler than granite and on a block, excellent double backs are obtained and faster than this chisel.

MASTER OOCHCHEN RICH. DON'T SEVERE SKIN. AND THE EDGE WILL BE RUNNING AND BENDING, AT LEAST TO SEW THE MACHINE. IN MY OPINION WORK ON TRACK.

how to change the vamp on women's leather shoes?

To move forward, a lot of GOOD!

in the back showed the main thing but to the point?

Vanya works well. only has not been seen for a long time. alive or at war ..

how to process the seams so that the boots do not leak?

Super! But the replacement of hard backs in high-toed boots? Do you have such a video? What is the best way to do it?

+ Zmiter iz GOMEL in boots you need to remove the sole, the heel to do it right.
and even here it was necessary to remove the sole.
but done in a hurry ..

in my opinion it is rude, sloppy, even for me, not a specialist. what didn’t work from the inside

+ simboza1 sweat that the back pocket is not neatly made.

Hello! bought ballet flats, turned out to be small, began to wear out in three socks and worn out the backdrops. now they are bent and ballet flats fly off when walking. please tell me, does it make sense to carry them to the master or not?

+ MIS7Ter, I also thought about straps) thank you for your answer!

+ Olya Laktina is also possible to the master, the best option is to make straps, they will not fly off and inexpensively.

It's easier for me to disassemble (sole from top to middle) and insert the heel into the pocket. Replacement of the back and lining (pockets) - different prices. By the way, how much do you take for such a job?

+ Andrey Ovchinnikov, I completely remove the sole. even if it's a "trough" ..
and then glue is easier than gluing, and more convenient to work with.
and you don’t have to remove your own pocket, if not worn. mostly whole pockets.
and assembly ONLY for desmakol. especially in summer shoes ..
with different “passes” of glue in the wrong place, desmakol is easier to remove than nairite.
for my work I charge 150 - 180 UAH. there are some nuances.

Not subject to discussion, a master with a capital letter, Dmitry Zaikin nervously smokes nearby. I watched you guys a lot and now I decided to write =) You are the best of those who posted your video =) A little about me; from the age of 13, only shoes and a second life for her like blood flows in me =) Sorry for the sincerity =)

Mainly due to the fact that the lining is usually wiped and wrinkled; therefore, it is done together with a hard back

Hello, I liked the robot, a couple of questions, if possible, I am doing second-hand shoes. What kind of a miracle knife do you have? Cuts just awesome. Glued with Nairit, right? And doesn't it need to be warmed up to 80 degrees after applying and waiting 15-20 minutes? So they explained to me, they even said that it applies twice and wait another 30 minutes, and then warm it up. Please tell me how to work with this glue correctly, for example, glue the sole in boots or shoes. And what kind of machine do you have? And I myself would like this)) If you can model and where they are)) Thank you very much) I'm kind of new in this business, be surprised if I wrote some nonsense)

+ Sergey Doronin a regular shoe knife, in cases of gluing, replacing heels, prophylaxis, everything must be waited correctly and the glue must be thermo activated, here it is glued “on wet”, since with the correct method of inserting and aligning the backdrop, it is also impossible to use this method when gluing the insoles . for second-hand glue, desmakol is better suited, the principle is the same (there is no worse repair than to glue second-hand and there is no chemical treatment), I have a minerva machine for beginners "Versailles" (special for Versailles

Great job. Why not sit on the last and raise the heel without trimming the pad?

+ andrew rukavishnikov no, on occasion I will remove the constriction of the sock (alteration from long to normal)

Did you make a roller with a replacement toe cap?

+ andrew rukavishnikov is also possible on the last, it seems to me that it is easier and almost always the lining on the heel is worn

Not to say that I am a stingy man, but I am sorry to throw out the old thing and buy a new one, if the old one can still be worn out by fixing it a little. And with shoes, respectively, the same situation. My shoes wear out very quickly, the heels are mostly erased.

I scored at first, but no one sees inside. Then it became uncomfortable to wear.

It's a pity to throw it away, it looks like new (well, almost), but worn from the inside.

I decided to try to repair it myself, if I spoiled it, it would not be too bad.

- How to replace the worn fabric, I chose leatherette.

- Foam rubber (I also rubbed it to the base) It turns out 2 types, thin ((1-1.5 mm) is optional) for the spacer and thick 8-10mm for replacing the backdrop.

- Threads (preferably in the color of the product) with a needle.

- Scissors or a utility knife.

- Glue. I used glue for foam rubber, VB - 103, red, it costs about 250 rubles per liter, dries quickly enough, holds tight.

First, let's shred everything into pieces.

Foam rubber and a rag that has seen life.

We will prepare what, in fact, we will change them.

Cut out leatherette to size.

And foam rubber. I took a tighter, secondary, it seems called.

I glued thin foam rubber to leatherette, but this is not important, you can do without it. I also sewed threads on the sides, because they will not be covered.

We begin to sew the whole thing into place. Leatherette is less elastic than fabric, if you just start sewing in a circle, the joints will not converge (how else to call it?) Therefore, we will align the piece and attach it in several places with threads so that it does not go to distortion.

We are stitching. Sometimes it's hard, use a thimble or pliers as a last resort. If there was a sewing machine, it would be easier. But she's not there. My grandmother, her health, taught her how to use it. Probably wanted a granddaughter =)

We asked for it, we turn it out, we look at what a fucking fellow we are. But this is only half the battle.

We glue the foam rubber. First, you need to glue it with its end to the top of the backdrop and then lower it down and glue it. This will create a slight bevel and bulge to secure the heel. Something like that:

But this is also not necessary, you can simply glue it, the heel itself will take shape as you walk. But this is better.

Next, we glue the leatherette to the base, pulling it a little. Don't overdo it with glue.

And we sew where there were factory seams.

This is how it was and how it became. It took a whole evening for one sneaker and fingers worn out from the needle.

Thank you for your attention! I hope it will be useful to someone.

Especially for Pikabu and my followers, neighbor hater and aspiring Stasique renovator.

Old sneakers or sneakers! Someone takes shoes to the landfill immediately, while someone knows these wonderful secrets and enjoys the process of restoring worn pairs ...

How to fix your shoes if an ugly scuff or hole appears on the fabric backing? What if the sole turns yellow or has black streaks of unknown origin? How to properly wash your sneakers in the washing machine? Let's clarify!

Restoration is such a complicated word! But it denotes simple processes: to hem the shoes where necessary, to touch up, to make them perfectly clean. I do not see anything wrong with taking measures to save your favorite sneakers!

Frayed socks on sneakers or sneakers and even noticeable holes will help to mask the patch.
Be sure to wash and dry your shoes before repairing!
Before attaching the thermal patch, sew pieces of raincoat fabric on the worn places. This must be done from the outside so that after repair the shoes do not sting and there is no discomfort when walking.
Preheat the iron to maximum, but turn off the steam function.
Cut the thermal patch in half.Remove the protective film and attach the fabric to the shoe.
Iron the thermal patch until the wrinkles disappear. If any pieces of fabric are unnecessary, cut them off with nail scissors.

White outsole is extremely easy to get dirty! Citric acid will help to restore whiteness: rub the powder over the entire surface of the sole, leave for a while, then rinse thoroughly. Baking soda cleans and whitens the sole well.

One of my favorite methods - an old toothbrush and whitening toothpaste - will cope with even tough dirt! A regular pencil mark eraser can also help wipe stains off your shoes. So do not rush to send sneakers with yellowed soles to the landfill.

Can I machine wash my sneakers? Of course you can, but you need to follow a number of rules! Even very old shoes can be transformed by machine washing.

If your sneakers have reflectors, you cannot wash them in a typewriter - bright details will definitely come off. Before washing, be sure to remove the laces and insoles from the sneakers, so the shoes are washed much better.

Place shoes in a washing bag before loading them into the machine. Choose a delicate mode, the washing temperature should not exceed 30 degrees. I recommend turning off the spin mode: this can harm the washing machine, even if the sneakers calmly endure the procedure.

Never dry your sneakers in the washing machine! This will deform them. Before leaving your sneakers to dry naturally, fill them with white paper. Never with newspapers - newspaper paint can stain shoes. You can use food parchment for this purpose.

If your shoes smell bad, baking soda can help! Place an open plastic bag of baking soda inside your sneaker overnight. Soda will absorb any odors and moisture like magic!

Sometimes it is enough to simply replace the laces on the shoes to completely change the look. Colored laces bring even a worn pair to life!

Why not lace up your sneakers in a new way? Here are some cute ways to make your shoes look more original. Save it and use it with pleasure!

Hope these tips help you bring more than one pair of old shoes to life! Tell us what tricks you use for home shoe restoration, we will be very grateful.

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