Do-it-yourself Samsung washing machine lock repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the lock of a Samsung washing machine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

There is a washing machine in every home these days. And in every washing machine, be it Bosch, Siemens, Samsung or Indesit, there is a lock that locks the hatch. In a professional way, this detail is called "sunroof locking device". And already from the name you can understand that its main function is to block the hatch when washing things. Why does the hatch have to be blocked? So that things do not fall out of the machine and water does not spill onto the floor during washing or spinning.

A simple device that, it would seem, does not play any important role in the operation of the machine. But if the hatch lock is faulty, the washer simply will not start the process. Therefore, minor breakage of a small part will cause serious difficulties. Repair of the washing machine lock will need to be done the sooner the better.

To better understand how situations can arise when the repair of the washing machine lock is needed, and how best to fix the part, you need to figure out how the mechanism works.

There are two types of sunroof locking devices:

Thermal lock - works due to a bimetallic plate;
Electric lock - functions thanks to electromagnets.

Most washers such as Ariston, LG, Candy, Atlant, and almost every new model are equipped with a thermal lock. Such locks are more reliable and very rarely break. In addition, they are arranged extremely uncomplicated. The components of the blocking device are a bimetallic plate and a thermocouple. When voltage is applied to it, it heats up and, accordingly, heats up the plate. It experiences the effect of temperature, bends, activates the latch and locks the drum cover.

At the same time, a short circuit occurs in the circuit, and the control module receives information that the door is locked. Only then can the machine start washing in the set mode.

But if there is something wrong with the lock, the system will notify you of an error.

Video (click to play).

In general, there can be two signs of a breakdown of the sunroof locking device:

The drum lid does not lock, the wash does not start;
The drum door does not open after washing.

In the first case, the problem may not be in the lock at all. Sometimes it may be that a person simply closed the door incorrectly. Therefore, the machine refuses to start working. But if you checked the hatch, made sure that everything was closed as it should, and the wash still does not start, this is already an alarming sign.

The second case can be much more problematic. It is much worse if the machine does not give things back than if it refuses to wash them. But here, too, there may be an easy solution.

Do not forget that the drum door does not open immediately after washing. So do not pull the handle a second after the washing machine has stopped. Many models have a light that will start blinking some time after washing, indicating that the lid can be opened.

After washing, the lid may remain closed for a few minutes. The reason for this is that the plate and thermoelement do not cool immediately after the voltage supply is stopped. The lid opens when the plate has cooled down and returned to its original position.

But if enough time has passed, and the machine still does not open, it means that the lock of the washing machine needs to be repaired.

Why in general can there be a breakdown of the sunroof locking device? Electric locks are less reliable and the reasons for their breakdowns are often voltage drops, network failures, water ingress and other household trifles.

The thermal lock is less vulnerable to this kind of trouble.Even when your light turns off during washing, the device reacts to it quite calmly. The plate cools down, and the lock can be opened after a while. With an electric lock, you will have to wait for electricity to reappear in the apartment.

The main reasons for the breakdown of the blocking device:

The most common reason for reliable thermal locks, surprisingly, is time. The bimetallic plate is designed for a certain number of heating and cooling and, after a time interval, simply wears out;
Voltage drops also negatively affect the thermal lock. Due to them, the components are destroyed.

Under no circumstances will it be possible to repair a worn-out part. The lock will have to be changed to a new one. And if the door just stopped closing, it is quite easy to do this, since it will not be difficult for an experienced specialist to get to the lock itself. The craftsmen of our company cope with this task using one screwdriver. But, despite the ease of repair, we do not recommend that you change the device yourself if you have no experience with electronics. For the device to function correctly, you need to know how and how to connect the contacts.

The situation is much more complicated if the hatch door does not open. Then you have to remove the entire front panel from the machine. And here you can no longer do without an experienced repairman who knows how to handle washing machines. And you can find such people by contacting our company.

Our craftsmen will change the device right at your home for a new, high-quality part from a trusted manufacturer. And your machine will serve you for a long time.

A washing machine, like any other technique, depends on individual components, and it is not uncommon for such parts to have to be serviced, and even replaced with newer ones.

We all have ever faced a situation when it is necessary to wash clothes urgently, but the washing machine does not start. What to do? How to detect a breakdown? What types of malfunctions are there? You can find all this and more on our website.

Resolving error E18 in vertical and horizontal loading Bosch washing machines

The most common causes of breakdowns in washing machine control modules. How to recognize a malfunction? What to do if the board is out of order, and what is the most profitable repair method?

An article on the correct cleaning of the filter in an automatic washing machine

A washing machine is a complex mechanism and for its smooth operation it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of the operating manual and if the washing machine is noisy, then urgent measures must be taken for inspection and repair.

For safety reasons, washing machines use an electronic lock that locks the door during washing. Thus, it cannot be opened until the wash and rinse is complete. After completion of the wash cycle and the corresponding sound signal, the door opens automatically. If the lock breaks, the washing process becomes impossible.

To carry out diagnostics and repairs, we recommend contacting qualified specialists at the "RemonTechnik" service center.

The three most common problems with a sunroof lock are possible:

After completing the wash cycle, the lock does not open. In this case, to open the door, you will have to disassemble the washing machine;
The door does not lock even after a characteristic click, as a result, washing does not start. Thus, the control panel does not receive an informative signal to close the hatch;
It is most dangerous when the door is not locked and the washing process begins, as water may spill out. Also, the main components of the washing machine are damaged as a result of depressurization.

After a visual inspection, you can determine the malfunction of the blocker, but first it must be removed.

In front-loading washing machines, the lock is located to the right of the door.Dismantling the lock includes the following steps:

Drain the water and disconnect the unit from the network;
Remove the steel wire ring that presses the rubber gasket placed between the hatch and the drum to the machine body;
Move aside the rubber cuff in the area of the blocker so that you can get to it;
Unscrew the fastening bolts on the front panel (hold the lock with your hand so that it does not fall through);
Pull out the terminal that provides power to the lock.

The process of installing the lock is carried out in the reverse order.

The body of the lock is made of plastic; there is a large hole at the end of the lock, which is intended for the hatch hook. The blocker housing contains:

A plate (usually made of metal) designed to engage the hook;
Pin and contacts transmitting a signal to the control module;
Thermistor;
Bimetallic plate, bends when heated.

When the door is closed, the hatch hook, falling into the holes of the lock, mechanically acts on the metal plate, setting it in a certain position. After the receipt of a special signal from the control panel to the lock thermistor, the bimetallic plate is deformed, which presses on the pin.

The pin enters the hole of the plate, blocking its movement. At the same time, the contacts are closed, which send a signal to close the hatch to the control module. The loading door can be opened only after the current supply to the thermistor has been cut off and the bimetallic plate has cooled down. Therefore, you cannot open it immediately after the end of the wash, but you must wait for a while.

After disassembling the lock of the washing machine, usually, you can visually easily determine the cause of the breakdown. If the cause of the breakdown is not clear, you need to check the following:

Resistance thermistor. When cooled, it is equal to 900 ohms.
Contact voltage after closing the door;
It is necessary to simulate the door closing procedure by applying voltage to the thermistor, to trace the operation of the bimetallic plate;
Check if the pin fits into the hole.

To diagnose the operation of the loading door lock, a multimeter is required.

If you doubt your own abilities, please contact our service center, our masters will quickly fix the problem and your machine will be back in service.

The video will help you clearly understand the process of repairing and replacing the lock:

Owners of home appliances of a well-known South Korean brand will be interested in how a Samsung washing machine is repaired with their own hands.

Unfortunately, sometimes it is necessary to eliminate breakdowns and leaks of washing machines, even in an expensive price segment, and knowledge of error codes and related malfunctions may also be required.

First, you should familiarize yourself a little with the main features of these machines. First, it is stylish design.

Secondly, it is the original design of the drum. Modern modifications of Samsung washing machines are equipped with a fundamentally new technical solution - Drum Diamond Drum .

It belongs to an innovative type of honeycomb drums with a surface covered with many convex pyramids and small water holes, into which the fabric is not drawn.

Thanks to this design, a gentle wash cycle is provided. These drums can be very spacious - with a load of up to 12 kg of laundry, depending on the model of the machine.

Thirdly, worthy of attention heaters with double ceramic coatingnot covered with limescale, and inverter motorattached directly to the drum in some modifications.

Also interesting are the functions Fuzzy Logic and Smart Check responsible for the correct calculation of the washing mode depending on the amount of loaded laundry, as well as for diagnosing various machine malfunctions.

The number of wash programs depends on the model of the washing machine.Even the simplest modifications are equipped with all the necessary set of programs, and the new models have a washing mode called ECO Bubble - with the help of air bubbles, laundry is easier to wash even in cold water.

If the machine is marked with Wf, it means that this model is front-loaded, and if its name contains the abbreviation WD, it means that the machine is equipped with a built-in dryer.

But Samsung brand machines also have one small drawback - their instability to voltage drops in the network, which is important in our Russian reality.

When the voltage becomes either too high or low, then a control system called Volt Control simply turns off the washing mode to resume it immediately after the mains voltage has stabilized. This is not always convenient, so it is better to connect the washing machine through a voltage regulator.

After a short acquaintance with the parameters of this brand, let's move on to considering the main breakdowns.

To understand the malfunction that has arisen, you need to consider the most common of them and the reasons for their occurrence.

Here is a list of common problems:

Further, the methods of repairing them with your own hands will be considered, because it is not always possible to call the master. And for this you need to have a set of necessary tools.

Before starting repairs, you need to make sure that all the tools from this list are available:

flat and Phillips screwdrivers or screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
pliers, pliers, wire cutters;
tweezers - elongated and curved;
powerful flashlight;
long-handled mirror;
soldering iron;
gas-burner;
small hammer;
knife.

In addition to the listed tools, you may need a magnet to pull out small metal objects inside the machine, a long metal ruler to align the drum, a multimeter or voltage indicator.

But that's not all. In addition to the required set of instruments, the following building materials will need to be purchased for repairs:

sealant;
Super glue;
insulating resin;
soldering materials - rosin, flux, etc .;
wires;
clamps;
current fuses;
rust remover;
electrical tape and scotch tape.

Sometimes a multimeter is not needed, it is enough to turn on the machine and select a mode with a high water temperature. From the operation of an apartment electricity meter, it is easy to understand whether the heating element is receiving power.

If you are a beginner, then you can advise using a camera to shoot video or to photograph the workflow, so as not to confuse the sequence of actions and then correctly assemble the machine.

There are several important rules to remember that must be followed before starting repair work:

it is necessary to drain all the water from the machine;
before disassembly, be sure to (!) disconnect the device from the power supply;
choose a bright and spacious enough place for renovation.

If the unit cannot be moved to a convenient location, then ensure maximum illumination of the workplace.

The first step is to remove the top panel of the washing machine.

The second step is to take out the container for powders, this is not difficult to do. Next, you need to remove the cuff from the hatch. Caution is needed here. Use a screwdriver to pry the retaining clip, remove it, and then remove the O-ring. This should be done carefully, trying not to tear the soft rubber.

It was the turn of the control panel. In order to remove it, you need to unscrew two screws on the front of the panel and one on the right.

Next, you can proceed to dismantle the lower front panel. Pulling the latch lever, we separate the basement part of the facade - access to the drain filter and the hose for the emergency filter is open. The front panel can now be removed by unscrewing the eight fixing screws. The heating element and the drain pump open.

If during the repair process it is necessary to remove the tank and drum, then we advise you not to do this alone. Be sure to involve an assistant in this matter. Before removing the tank, you need to de-energize the heating element, disconnect all pipes, as well as the electrical wiring from the motor.

To do this, put the machine on its side, then remove the 4 screws on the bottom cover. The engine opens with a counterweight secured by shock absorbers. Disconnect the wiring from the connectors. Here it is important to remember what is attached to what, therefore, before disassembling, it is advisable to photograph everything, in order to then repeat everything exactly as in the picture.

But it remains to disconnect the drive belt from the engine. To do this, simply remove the belt from the pulley. Remember to put the drive belt on the small drive pulley first, then slide it over the large driven pulley and align to the center of the pulley when putting on the belt.

We present to you a diagram of the device, which will be very useful for repairs. The technical content of machines of different brands is about the same, and if you have already come across the replacement of spare parts for a washing machine, then it will be easier for you to cope with the next repair.

Now you can start a story about certain types of breakdowns and how to repair them.

The most common cause is insufficient water pressure. Then the machine stops, and in order to start it again, it must be turned off and then turned on again. If there is a lot of laundry loaded, for the machine to start, just turn it off and remove the excess.

If there is a break in the power cord or initially poor contact in the power button, then the device periodically turns off by itself. The machine may also stop if it is not level and slightly skewed.

To solve this problem, first check the water pressure in the water supply system, and also make sure that the valve supplying water to the machine is open well.

You should be aware that the free end of the drain hose connected from below must be located at a height of more than 2/3 of the height of the device, otherwise water will immediately pour out of the machine.

There are many reasons for this problem. Sometimes it is enough just to clean the powder container well - due to its clogging, water can simply flow out of it.

If, after checking these hoses, you are convinced that everything is in order with them, then the reason lies in the O-ring.

It is necessary to check the tightness of the seals, both in the door and in the connection of the filling hose. If they are worn out, they should be replaced. Then you need to check the drain pump and hose for foreign objects stuck there.

Therefore, the wash water does not heat up. This is due to the failure of the heating element, but do not rush to change it - this may also be damage to the wiring.

Therefore, you should carefully check the entire electrical circuit, as well as the contacts of the heating element itself, using a multimeter. If the tester shows the presence of voltage in the entire circuit, then this means that the heating element will still have to be replaced.

The place where the heater is installed should be thoroughly cleaned, only after that it will be possible to mount a new heating element.

The most common cause of noise is incorrect installation of the machine. Because of this, the unit produces a strong hum during spinning. For this, the position of the machine must be leveled using a spirit level.

But sometimes excessive noise can occur due to heavy wear on the bearings. It is impossible to fix them - only to change them. For an inexperienced repairman, this is a rather difficult task, because it may be necessary to saw and then glue the non-separable tank, behind which the bearing is located. Therefore, if you are not sure of your skill, then do not take up this business, it is better to call a qualified specialist.

But if the tank of your car can be disassembled, then this task can be within your power.To do this, you need to remove the tank, then disassemble it by unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the fastening latches.

After the unusable bearing has already been removed, you should thoroughly clean the shaft, check if it is worn out, and then just install a new bearing.

Finally, we present a short list of error codes that are most often issued by the unit.

E1 - system error when filling with water. Means that the required water level during filling is not reached within 20 minutes. Eliminated by turning off and then turning on the machine.

E2 - error when draining. Most often occurs when the drain filter is clogged.

E3 - too much water. You do not need to do anything, the water is automatically drained within 2 minutes.

E4 - too many things. Their mass does not correspond to the parameters of the machine. You need to extract the excess.

E5 - water heating does not work.

E6 - malfunction of the heating element.

E7 - malfunction of the water level sensor in the tank.

E8 - water heating does not match the selected wash program. Most often due to problems with the heating element.

E9 - water leakage or drain, recorded more than 4 times.

DE, DOOR - bad blocking. Most often - a badly closed hatch door.

We bring to your attention a good video that you need to watch before you start replacing the bearing yourself.

The process of dismantling and replacing bearings:

What the disassembly process looks like:

Before starting self-repair, you always need to correctly assess your own strength and not take on overwhelming work. But repairing a washing machine yourself is not very difficult, it is enough to understand a little about mechanics, electrical engineering, and also have the necessary tools and materials at hand. You will succeed!

In an automatic washing machine, each detail is responsible for a certain work - so, the door is closed by a special UBL device. This electronic interlock locks the door when closed by sending a signal to the control module. When the locking device is activated, washing starts.

We will consider the reasons for the breakdown of the locking device, as well as options for checking it.

Before you check the lock in the washing machine, you need to understand how this device works. Often, in modern machines, manufacturers use two types of locks:

Electromagnetic. This blocker is used less and less. The disadvantage of using it is that it works as long as there is a supply of electricity. If it is turned off, you will not be able to open the hatch.

Bimetallic. The device and principle of operation of the lock on the hatch door are quite simple: electricity is supplied to a thermal element, which heats up as a result. At the same time, he heats the bimetal plates, due to which they bend, putting pressure on the lever. The latter is triggered and closes the door.

Such thermal locks with bimetallic plates are considered the most effective.

There is a delay when unlocking the door. What for? Until the water is completely drained and all parts of the machine stop moving, the door should not open for safety reasons.

Another plus of thermo-locks: in case of a power outage, they can be opened.

You have already understood how the UBL of a washing machine works and what are the advantages of using it. Why does the lock break? The main causes of the malfunction are:

Long-term use contributes to the wear of the bimetallic plates. As a result of constant deformation, the plates lose their functional qualities.
The device also fails due to a short circuit.

As long as voltage is applied to the device, it works. Therefore, if your washer stopped, but the door did not unlock, do not rush to blame the locking device. Most likely, the triac on the electronic board, which is responsible for the operation of the UBL, has broken. Power is supplied continuously, so the door will not open.

There are a number of external signs by which the user can assume that the lock is faulty:

CM is disabled, but the door remains closed. The reason lies in the blocking device or in the main module.
When the program starts, the wash does not start, the door remains open.
The washer issues a malfunction code indicating a broken lock.

To understand if the lock is broken or something else, you need to know how to check the UBL in a washing machine with a tester.

You will need to remove the device from the car:

Disconnect the CMA from the mains.
Open the door.
Bend the hatch cuff and remove its clamp.

Pulling the cuff to the side reveals the lock.

Remove the two bolts securing the lock.

Now that you have the UBL in your hands, you can start checking the lock of the washing machine. To use a multimeter, you need a lock circuit. This is necessary to determine the location of the common and neutral contacts.

At home, you can only check the thermocouple that heats the plates.

Set the tester to resistance measurement mode.
Apply its test leads to the neutral and phase contact.
The lock is operational if a three-digit number appears on the screen.
Move the tentacles of the multimeter to the neutral - common contacts.
The device is faulty if the display shows 1 or 0.

Having figured out how to properly check the door lock device in the washing machine, you can install a new lock. Proceed like this:

Connect the wires to a working device.
Lead it behind the wall of the case, install it in the hole for the lock.
Tighten the fixing screws.
Replace the cuff clamp.

Checking the UBL in a washing machine is not a difficult task, you can do it yourself. Of course, if the lock is faulty, the door will not close, so the wash will not start for your safety.

Installing a new blocker will not be difficult for a beginner, the main thing is the sequence of actions.

The lock of the washing machine is a safety mechanism that ensures that it remains tight during operation. The lock prevents unintentional opening of the lid during operation, and also stops the washing program if the hatch is not closed tightly. Like the main part of the parts, the lock is subject to wear, therefore it is necessary to replace it in a timely manner.

If the lock does not work correctly, then it is better to replace it immediately. However, the average person may have difficulty finding and buying the right model. Of course, you can simply order equipment from a service center, but this will take some time and require additional funds. It will be much easier to determine if you accurately identify the cause of the lock malfunction. To do this, you need to understand its structure and how it works.

Usually, blockers during manufacture are placed in plastic case... In the extreme part of the mechanism, a hole is provided for attaching a spring ring that connects the entire system to the hatch. The details of the lock are as follows:

an iron plate connected to the loading door cover spring;
thermistor;
a bimetallic part that changes dimensions in response to temperature;
multiple contacts;
pin.

Operating principle blocker pretty simple. After closing the lid, the hook, engaging with the lock, acts on the plate, giving it the required position. After the signal for blocking the cover is given, an electric current is supplied to the thermistor, the bimetallic part changes shape, pushing the pin. Entering the hole, the pin reliably blocks the movement of the movable plate, thereby fixing the hatch. After that, the contacts located in the inside of the lock are closed, and a signal is given that the hatch of the washing machine is securely closed. To unlock the system, it is enough disconnect voltage on the thermistor.

To check the removed lock, it is enough to put the movable plate in the required position and apply current to the contacts. With help tester you can easily check that they are functioning correctly.In addition, pay attention to the return of the locking mechanism after de-energizing.

A defective lock can lead to unpleasant consequences. For example, the most common problem: due to a faulty blocker it is impossible to open the hatch after washing. To eliminate the breakdown, you must do the following:

Disconnect the machine from the mains and water supply.
Remove the top panel of the household appliance.
Move the metal lock bar from the hatch hook.

Read more about how to open the machine if the door is locked here.

The next possible breakdown is the exact opposite of the one described above. Despite the tight pressing of the hatch cover to the body, the locking mechanism does not operate. The wash program will not start until the system receives tightness signal... This is most often due to a defective lock. To fix the problem, remove it from the hatch cover and check for wear.

In order to avoid a repetition of the incident, experts recommend changing the non-triggering mechanism.

To successfully remove the lock, you must:

Prepare a tool suitable for the repair.
Open the hatch of the household appliance.
Find the wire ring.
Carefully remove the ring using a screwdriver or other available tools.
Move the collar of the lock to a position from which it is easy to get it.
Carefully remove the fixing screws and pull out the lock.

By pulling out the special connectors, you will completely complete the dismantling of the locking device. Installing a new one or replacing the old one is carried out in the reverse order.

If you replace worn-out parts on time and carefully monitor the washing machine, it will perform its functions with high quality for many years. Regular maintenance will help prevent breakdowns, and careful maintenance will help prevent mold and odor growth.

Today YOU will not find a single model on the washing machine market without a door locking device.Installing this it is a safety measure. In order for the water to be inside the washing machine and not to flow out, the tightness of the tank must be perfect. This function is performed by the cuff (sealing gum) and the lock itself.Mechanical and, more complex, with a thermal sensor are used. They “lock” the door and keep it that way until the end of the program.
After you have set the program and additional functions you need, when you press the "start" button, voltage is applied to the lever.

1.Thermal lock, traditional UBL type:

- When power is applied, the protective plate closes the contacts of the main switch, allowing the start of washing, rinsing, and so on.- During operation, the lever mechanically locks the door, and for the entire program cycle.When power is removed from the terminals, the door remains locked for 2-3 minutes. Image - Do-it-yourself Samsung washing machine lock repair

1. P.T.C. 2.Bimetallic plates
3.Contact in initial state 4.Contact closed

The PTC is a ceramic resistor whose internal resistance increases with increasing temperature (bimetal). The temperature deforms the two plates (A to B), causing the lever to move, which closes the contact of the main switch.

At the same time, the latch, which is connected to the contact plate, moves outward to move to the door closing position. This procedure is carried out within 5 seconds after power is applied. When the power supply is disconnected, the PTC cools down (1-2 minutes) and the plates return to their original position, thus opening the contact and releasing the lever.

Reasons for the failure of the thermal lock:

1.Physical, fatigue wear of bimetallic plates.

2. Damage to the material of the plates, their destruction due to the frequent voltage drop in the network during the operation of the SM.

Serviceability check:

When the door is locked after the end of the wash program, it indicates that the metal of the plates is fatigued.
The entire device needs to be replaced.

After pressing the "Start" button, the door is not locked, the program does not start.

Here the mechanism may be faulty or there is no signal from the board. As a rule, UBL has three contacts, which denote L N and C. Voltage is applied to the L and N contact, after which the contact is closed, and the voltage from C is supplied further according to the scheme.

2.Electric lock - the door opens immediately after the drum stops:

Used in typewriters as an example: ariston aqualtis, bosch logixx.

1.PTC safety solenoid valve 2.Solenoid valve
3.Link mechanism 4.Ratchet 5.Bimetal PTC
6.Electrical contacts (power switch) 7.Latch

When the ON / OFF button is turned on, power is supplied to the PTC bimetal, the cams are in a state that prevents the latch from external movement. When the program is started by pressing the START / PAUSE button, the main board gives a signal (duration

20 ms) on the electromagnet (at least 6 seconds after switching on), which moves the cams one position.

The latch that locks the door lever is lifted and, at the same time, the contacts of the main switch close, supplying power to all electrical components. At the end of the program, the control module sends two signals (at intervals of

20 ms) The first signal moves the cams to the next position, but the valve does not open, the second signal moves the cams one more position, which causes the latch to open. At the same time, the contacts of the main switch open.