DIY nissan ignition lock repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Nissan laptop ignition lock from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Nissan Note E11 Broken Ignition Lock Repair Report (2006)

The Nissan Note lock was brought to the workshop with a diagnosis “the key does not turn in the lock”. On Nissan cars, as well as on other brands, there are situations when the key is not removed from the ignition lock or the key is removed, but does not turn in the lock. Next, we will focus on the repair of the Nissan Note E11 ignition lock.

Frequent use in the lock wear out the rubbing parts and the lock starts to "wedge" when the key is turned to the first position. In this case, the ignition lock can be repaired and there is absolutely no need to buy a used lock from disassembly, or even more so - there is no need to buy a new lock. For cars of a serious age, buying a new lock is not commercially viable at all.

Such a lock as on the Nissan Note is also used on other models, therefore, if the ignition lock is jammed, the ways to solve this problem will be the same. General view of a jammed ignition switch:

The lock is riveted from the factory and is not collapsible. However, it is possible to disassemble such locks and reassemble them without consequences. So, the lock larva is taken out and then you need to disassemble it for repair. In almost all jammed ignition locks, the breakdown lies in the wear of the parts of the lock cylinder:

In the photo, the secrecy plates were removed from the castle larva and laid out in the same sequence in which they were in the castle. Dirt is visible on the plates, which interfered with the normal operation of the lock. In addition to dirt, mechanical wear of the plates and the key first caused a slight jam of the key in the lock, and then when the wear of the parts reached a certain limit, the key was finally jammed in the ignition lock:

Video (click to play).

If you look closely, you can observe mechanical wear in the middle of the plates. Such plates are either replaced with new ones or mechanical wear of each plate is eliminated. The ignition lock repaired in this way will serve for many years. The commercial benefit of such repairs is obvious - the keys remain old, only the mechanical part of the lock is repaired and no interference with the standard immobilizer occurs:

If you have a broken Nissan ignition lock and you do not know what to do, then repair of such a lock is possible right on the spot without towing the car to the service station. Repair of the Nissan ignition lock with a visit to St. Petersburg by phone +7 911 814-22-62.

Free consultation and assistance in solving problems with auto keys

Nissan Note. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CONTACT GROUP OF THE SWITCH (LOCK) OF IGNITION

You will need: flat and Phillips screwdrivers.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

3. and the lower part of the steering column cover

4. Press out the harness connector retainer.

5. . and disconnect the block from the contact group (for clarity, shown with removed steering column switches and steering wheel)

6. Pull down the steering column until it stops.

Further operations are shown on the steering column removed from the vehicle for clarity.

7. Remove the screw securing the contact group of the ignition switch (lock).

eight. . remove the screw from the hole. Align the second screw in the same way.

This is how the screws for fastening the contact group to the ignition switch (lock) are located.

9. Remove the contact block from the ignition switch (lock).

10. Install the contact group and all parts in the reverse order of removal.

Nissan Note. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE SWITCH (LOCK) IGNITION

You will need: the entire tool for removing the steering column (see Removing and installing the steering column, p. 185), a drill, an electric drill, a hammer, a chisel.

The ignition switch (lock) is attached to the steering column with a metal bracket.

... fixed by two screws with self-shearing heads.

1 Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

2. Remove the steering wheel (see Removing and installing steering wheel ", from 184).

3. Remove the steering column cover (see "Removing and installing the steering column cover", p, 184).

4. Remove the steering column switches (see

"Replacing the steering column switches", from 251),

Remove the lower decorative panel of the instrument panel

Remove the driver airbag slip ring ().

5. Disconnect the pads of the wires of the contact group and the antenna unit of the immobilizer

The ignition switch (lock) can be replaced without removing the steering column, but for convenience.

... it is recommended to remove it (see "Removing and installing the steering column", page 185).

8 Drill out the heads of the self-cutting bolts and remove the ignition switch.

You can unscrew the switch mounting bolts by striking them with a hammer through a chisel tangentially, counterclockwise.

Mountain coati

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[*] Help plizz! He took off the battery and then put it back on and after that the key stopped turning in the ignition switch!
java script: emoticon (‘:(’, ‘smid_1’)

Post has been edited Leo2017 – 13.10.2017, 16:18

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On Woltz it was similar as described by the topicstater. I suffered for 40 minutes. Splattered white Livia grease (only this was in the trunk). I waited 5 minutes. Inserted the key. I turned to the Almighty. Rotate the key, does not rotate. I made some effort and something was grunt and the key turned. I clicked again 10 times and that's it. 3 years without problems. It's not about Akum, definitely.
Then, in eNote, the lock was also lubricated for prophylaxis.
Posted a story on D2, I was immediately reminded of the steering lock. But I can say with 100% certainty that it was not a blockage. Since even Zhiguli cars have it, they drove it 10 years before.

Post has been edited Alexey Konyaev – 14.10.2017, 18:50

- Hello! I have a 2007 Nissan Note. The ignition lock does not turn to the “off” position, and because of this, the car is not armed. At the same time, it is started and removed from the parking lot. Is it possible to renovate the castle?
Svetlana. Moscow

- Good afternoon, Svetlana! The malfunction described by you, most likely, speaks not of a failure of the ignition lock, but of a defect in the automatic transmission cable drive system.

Your car has a partial ignition lock - if the automatic transmission lever is not in the “P” (parking) position. That is, if you turn off the car and the automatic transmission lever is not switched to the “parking” position, the ignition lock will not turn to the “Off” position.

This blocking is carried out using a special cable (cable drive), which "goes" from the automatic transmission backstage to the ignition lock.

Most likely, the malfunction is associated with the drive mechanism of this cable.

If you did not manage to cope with the problem on your own, contact the specialists of the company RT.Avto by phone in Moscow: 8-495-545-64-06, 8-925-545-64-06

If you have a question for the specialists of our technical assistance service, write to us, or call (495) 545-64-06, (925) 545-64-06.

In the letter, please indicate the make and model of your car, year of manufacture, and clearly state the question.

The most interesting questions will definitely fall into our “Questions and Answers” section 🙂

NEW SERVICE
Unlocking the ignition switch Volkswagen Crafter

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Club card holders get a 10% discount.
The club card can be obtained after the first service.
For details call (495) 545-64-06 or (925) 545-64-06.

IGNITION SWITCH (LOCK)

Nissan Note. CHECK IGNITION SWITCH (LOCK)

An ignition switch (lock) with a mechanical locking device, an antenna unit of an immobilizer, a key position sensor and an electrical contact group is attached to the steering column housing behind

DATA FOR VERIFICATION OF THE CONTACT GROUP Table 10.9

IGNITION SWITCH (LOCK)

The contacts are not closed, the measured resistance between the terminals tends to infinity

Contacts are closed, the measured resistance between the terminals is not more than 2 Ohm

’A measured resistance of more than 2 ohms indicates that the contacts are faulty (burning or oxidation).

Rice. 10.8. Arrangement of contacts of the block of the contact group of the switch (lock) of the ignition

steering wheel. The electrical contact group of the switch and the locking device are connected to each other, work synchronously and are activated by the ignition key.

At the ignition switch (lock), they check the correct closure of the contacts at different key positions and the operation of the anti-theft device. The data for checking the contact group are given in table. 10.9. The location of the contacts of the wiring harness block of the ignition switch (lock) is shown in Fig. 10.8 To check the contact group, use the tester in the "continuity" mode of the circuit.

In each position of the key in the lock, check in accordance with Fig. 10.8 Correct closure of the ignition switch (lock) contacts.

Nissan Note. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE ANTENNA UNIT OF THE IMMOBILIZER AND THE CYLINDER OF THE SWITCH (LOCK) OF IGNITION

You will need: screwdrivers with flat and cross-shaped blades, socket head "8", electric drill, drill.

1 Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

- Good afternoon, Svetlana! The malfunction described by you, most likely, speaks not of a failure of the ignition lock, but of a defect in the automatic transmission cable drive system.

This blocking is carried out using a special cable (cable drive), which "goes" from the automatic transmission backstage to the ignition lock.

Most likely, the malfunction is associated with the drive mechanism of this cable.

Elimination of such a malfunction takes about an hour, the cost can be specified by calling our phone number in Moscow: 545-6406.

Repair of the ignition lock.

One frosty morning, I discovered that the ignition switch was stuck. The key is inserted and removed but does not turn.

Before that, there were no prerequisites, but here, once and for all. Having pushed around, I realized that it would probably have to be changed. And I'm not going anywhere today. At that moment, I realized how we all depend on technology, on electricity in the house, household amenities, and how we all got used to our car, that it carries us. I was seized by panic - how I walk, then by bus, to work. (I work in a neighboring town 40 km)

No, this will not work! And the adrenaline, which naturally surged into the brain, from the experience of shock, because of a dead car, and laziness to ride the bus, did its job. He made the brain work to its fullest.

All the same, after 30 minutes, I drove to work in my favorite car, not on foot!

So I think, start from auto start, but if you press the brake pedal, it will stall right away.Okay, let's turn off the brake control from the pedal. Further, the steering wheel will be locked, how would you remove the ignition lock? Knowing that it is held on by special shear bolts and cannot be unscrewed, I continued to be horrified by this. (No, I don’t want to take the bus, I don’t want to.) Well, I think, let's see if we can cut it down like that, we’ll just buy a new one on parsing. I disassembled the steering column cover, and for my luck, I found that the bolts that should be knocked down were not knocked down at all and at this point they stick out, and wait for me, 8 mm hex bolts.

Photo_1 My bolts were not ripped off.

I immediately take the head for 8, and unscrew the ignition switch, disconnecting it from all the connectors. (Apparently, for some reason, these breakaway bolts were not knocked down at the plant.) Otherwise, it would take a long, long time to unscrew them with a chisel, then I would not have gone anywhere that day. If the bolts are torn off, then we take a chisel, a hammer, and knock on the bolts' heads, tangentially, in the direction of unscrewing. The bolt should come loose and be easy to peel off.

If the bolts are knocked down, then they look like this:

Photo_3 This is how a bolt looks like its upper part is torn off.

Having removed the lock, the steering wheel is no longer blocked, it remains to turn off the brake pedal control on the signaling.

I had to climb to the signaling, bite off the brake wiring, and short it to ground, tk. just taking a bite will give nothing. When the brake pedal is depressed, there must be a mass on this wire, with + 12V pressed. Therefore, this posting must be shorted to ground, so that the signaling would think that the pedal is not pressed. In general, I started the car with auto start and drove off at auto start to work. Pre-installed on the signaling unlimited engine running time. (In my signaling, you can do this StarLine A91.) So all day I went to the auto start, no problem. In general, this operation took about 20 minutes, and I went to work happy!

I phoned the analyzes, found the ignition lock with a key, for 3000 rubles. Well, what to do, you have to buy.

I looked at my own, you can make it out, but not so easy.

The body is held by 2 round cotter pins, 3 mm in diameter, and no more than 5-6 mm long. (In photo_4 they have already been drilled.) They are driven into holes on both sides, and you cannot pull them out, just drill them. Knowing that a new castle was waiting for me on parsing, I dared to break mine. I drilled out the cotter pins with a drill for 3, having previously drilled it right in the middle of this cotter pin, the front cover of the lock was removed, and the lock was sorted out.

Read also:

You will need:

Nippers
A sharp knife (not necessary, but it is more convenient with it)
You may need narrow nose pliers or tweezers
Soldering iron
A pair of self-tapping screws (it is more convenient with them)

A few words about the problem:

To begin with, it is worthwhile to tell that in modern cars a lock is installed that includes both the trigger coil and the lock itself, all in a single element, and if on an older car, you could simply replace the central locking coil separately, then in coincidental everything is more difficult, and you have to disassemble the lock is a single element.

And so, at one point you notice that sometimes when you set the car to the signaling or just close the central lock, one or more doors do not close. There may be such a situation that the lock blocking handle moves, but not enough to block the door, or maybe it does not move at all, and therefore does not block the door. It should be noted that this NISSAN TEANA STAFF SICK ... After you have identified such a problem, for a while you start to close the locks with your hands, but the moment comes that it just gets boring. The further way is to repair or replace the lock. With regard to replacement, everything is clear, buy a contract (cost from 1000 to 2500, depending on the impudence of the seller) (I had a problem on two doors, I bought a lock on one of them for 500, it was sold as with a defect, was bitten off cables, the second one I got for 900 rubles is absolutely working, contract, from friends). And so it is about replacing the lock.

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Posts: 5
Registration: 4.5.2009
From: Moscow
Thank you said: 0 times

My car:
Nissan Micra K12 1.2

Good night everyone! I have a micra, 2004.
and this problem began. the ignition lock apparently broke .. the key turns every other time and the machine is almost impossible to start.
they say it is necessary to change the lock, no one has come across this ??

and one more problem. tucked in the condo .. and in general, cold air is blowing from the dampers on the left side, and hot air from the right. I had to pay for the gas station, but what was the problem they did not say .. they say that inside some kind of dampers broke.

helpoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Group: Users
Posts: 16
Registration: 31.8.2010
From: Latvia
Thank you said: 4 times

My car:
Nissan Micra K12 1.2

helpoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

I have a similar problem with the lock, more than a year in search of how it still works, now I have come up with one solution. I do not insert the key, I just turn the larva, and usually at this moment it wedges and does not allow it to turn. Try this, you press the lock cylinder, the inscription KEY on the tidy lights up, and you don't turn the key right away, but wait a few seconds, and then slightly shaking the steering wheel do the coveted turn. It helps me, if it helps you too, then sign off

It depends on how many turns are made.

Good day. The phrase (apparently the time has come) - it was a question, sorry.

How to disassemble the larva without damage and loss, that's the task? Have hands (electrician).

Write in a personal xekxek, ask for help. I think he will not refuse

Do you still want to be wise? And why not, if there are hands and itch. (Just kidding)

And I would not be wise with the castle. Once I jammed it, then the time has come. In the next. once he gets stuck at the wrong time.

Addressed as you advised to xekxek, this good man explained everything. I'll gather my courage and

I'll start, unsubscribe based on the results. Thanks to all.

to Raoul: If possible, make a photo report.

Ask your question here And we have a forum for Nissan Almera.

to arina moroz2012: Please use the forum search.
With your username and password, you can enter any topic on the forum.

So I lost the only key from the almerka (it's strange I always buy cars from the first owner and always only one key)

He took off the ignition lock from the steering wheel (it turned out to be not difficult, with a chisel along the edge of the fastening bolts, they slowly unscrewed), removed the IMo antenna unit from it and now it's a bummer, I did not find any screws or other things securing the mask of the lock.

And how to remove the mask? ... without a key is not possible at all? ... only in the trash? (and there was an idea to try to make the key (()

Now there are workshops with "kulibins" who can make a key in disguise. Just what will it give?

The only one chip from the immobilizer (which is built into the key) was lost together with the last key. This will not solve all the problems.

to AutodeD: CHIP is not a problem, I called the dealer in Genser, they told me that they would reprogram new keys and an immobilizer in the car for 1800r. Moreover, the number of keys does not matter, how many I give, they will do as many, all for one price.

With used there are no problems with native keys, in many disassembly they are sold for 400 - 600 rubles. Having disassembled the mask, it can be adjusted under the key by rearranging the cylinders and reworking with a file.

The simplest of course is to buy a used one. the ignition lock with keys, but they suddenly ended at all the showdowns.

Regarding the workshops with the Kulibins, throw off the addresses, I looked in the internet, there is continuous urgent help with a trip to the car and, accordingly, the prices for this are not small.

Quite right. The larva cannot be removed without a key.

And the most correct decision. I can't give you a specific address.

The master from whom I made the keys disappeared somewhere.

nissan almera n16 2002 the last key was stolen,

xekxek help me please.

Nissan Expert 2003 lost my keys. (((((How to remove the ignition switch ?! I want to take it to the company, they will make a matrix and a key there on a computer. It’s expensive, but I don’t see any other way out. Without wheels - as without hands. The ambush is complete.

Since there are questions in a personal, I decided to write my experience on solving the problem with the loss of the only key to the Almeria.

1. Opening the car: the top edge of any front door can be easily pulled back a few centimeters. I pulled it off with great effort with my hand, then put a wooden hammer handle into the hole formed (so that there was always a gap of a couple of centimeters), removed the rubber seal. In the resulting gap, it is convenient to wield a long stick (I used a bamboo one) with a hook at the end. With this hook, looking through the windshield, I pulled the lock and then the door handle. It took a couple of minutes. Only fasten the hook to the stick more firmly, considerable effort will be required (it can be made of wire, I used a tip for wires, squeezed it on a stick like on a wire and bent it).

2. Turn off the alarm with the Jack button (how exactly we read the instructions for the signaling)

3. Remove the plastic casing surrounding the ignition switch.

4. Remove the ignition switch. The bracket securing the ignition switch to the steering column is pulled together by two bolts with smooth caps. There are several ways to unscrew them. In this place, nothing ever sours, so the bolts can be unscrewed easily.

The first method is the simplest and fastest, but requires skill: An ordinary screwdriver (or a similar attachment). We put on the edge of the bolt at an angle and hit with a hammer.The bolt will either start spinning a little by itself, or it can be moved by the notches remaining after the blows.

The second way: make a cut in the bolt head with a hacksaw blade and unscrew it with a screwdriver. True, when sawing, you will have to cut at the same time with the bolt and part of the bracket that surrounds the bolt head, but this does not affect the assembly possibilities back (you just saw it a little).

The third is a convenient and easy way for those who are not in a hurry. We dilute the two-component glue, take a nut, for example, 10 and glue it to the bolt head. We return the next day (when the glue hardens) and unscrew both bolts with the corresponding head. In the same way, then, when assembling, you screw them back in, and by tightening and applying additional force you will tear off the glued nuts from the caps and they will remain clean and as if they have never been unscrewed.

5. You are holding the ignition switch, closer to the front side on the lateral cylindrical surface you will see a small copper-colored plug with a diameter of about 3 mm. Having drilled it out, you can safely remove the cylinder from the body. Next, we take this cylinder and go to the workshop, where they know how to make keys on the cylinder. (this pleasure in Moscow costs 1-2 thousand rubles).

You just need to buy a blank of your key first. On Almeria n15, a blank costs 250 - 300 rubles.

6. The most important and unpleasant! - immobilizer. On Almera, n15 is a black box attached to the ignition lock along with a black plastic ring encircling the ignition mask.

If you wish, you can not do the key, but start the car with what remains after removing the ignition lock or make a button for this, but. you will have to program the key chip for your IMO.

Price issue: The chip costs 250 rubles. Its programming from the IMO brought by you (black box with a ring) 1500 - 3000 rubles. There are many offices that do this, but for the price as you agree.

I recommend buying two chips (in case of a new loss) and flashing both. This does not affect the price, what one to sew, what two.

7. If you made a new key, insert the flashed chip into it and use it.

If you decide to start the car without a key, then glue the chip to IMO and it will always let you start the car (you can put it under the cover in the IMO unit itself).

Now, regarding the option to buy another ignition lock with keys during disassembly.

This is possible, then you will not need to buy a blank and make a key, but you still have to buy and program a chip. And after programming, replace the chip in the keys with a new one. (In factory keys, the chip is disposable, it is not possible to reprogram)

how to remove the ignition lock Nissan example P11