DIY Lenovo laptop charging repair

An ordinary laptop power supply is a very compact and rather powerful switching power supply.

In the event of a malfunction, many simply throw it away, and buy a universal power supply unit for laptops for replacement, the cost of which starts from 1000 rubles. But in most cases, you can fix such a block with your own hands.

It's about repairing a power supply from an ASUS laptop. It is also an AC / DC power adapter. Model ADP-90CD... Output voltage 19V, maximum load current 4.74A.

The power supply itself was working, which was clear from the presence of a green LED indication. The voltage at the output plug corresponded to that indicated on the label - 19V.

There was no break in the connecting wires or breakage of the plug. But when the power supply was connected to the laptop, the battery did not start charging, and the green indicator on its case went out and glowed at half the original brightness.

It was also heard that the unit beeps. It became clear that the switching power supply was trying to start up, but for some reason either an overload or short circuit protection was triggered.

A few words about how you can open the case of such a power supply. It is no secret that it is made sealed, and the design itself does not imply disassembly. For this we need several tools.

We take a manual jigsaw or a canvas from it. It is better to take the canvas on metal with a fine tooth. The power supply itself is best clamped in a vice. If they are not there, then you can contrive and do without them.

Next, with a manual jigsaw, we cut into the depth of the body by 2-3 mm. in the middle of the body along the connecting seam. The cut must be done carefully. Overdoing it can damage the circuit board or electronics.

Then we take a flat screwdriver with a wide edge, insert it into the cut and unclip the halves of the case. There is no need to rush. When separating the halves of the case, a characteristic click should occur.

After the case of the power supply is opened, we remove the plastic dust with a brush or a brush, we take out the electronic filling.

To inspect the elements on the printed circuit board, you will need to remove the aluminum radiator bar. In my case, the bar was attached to other parts of the radiator with latches, and was also glued to the transformer with some kind of silicone sealant. I managed to separate the bar from the transformer with a sharp blade of a pocket knife.

The photo shows the electronic filling of our block.

The fault itself did not take long to look for. Even before opening the case, I was doing test turns. After a couple of connections to the 220V network, something crackled inside the block and the green indicator indicating work was completely extinguished.

When inspecting the case, a liquid electrolyte was found, which leaked into the gap between the network connector and the elements of the case. It became clear that the power supply unit ceased to function normally due to the fact that the electrolytic capacitor 120 uF * 420V “slammed” due to exceeding the operating voltage in the 220V power grid. Quite an ordinary and widespread malfunction.

When the capacitor was dismantled, its outer shell crumbled. Apparently it lost its properties due to prolonged heating.

The safety valve at the top of the housing is "swollen" - this is a sure sign of a defective condenser.

Here's another example with a faulty capacitor. This is a different laptop power adapter. Pay attention to the protective notch on the top of the condenser housing. It broke open from the pressure of the boiling electrolyte.

In most cases, bringing the PSU back to life is pretty easy.First you need to replace the main culprit of the breakdown.

At that time, I had two suitable capacitors at hand. I decided not to install a SAMWHA 82 uF * 450V capacitor, although it was ideally sized.

The fact is that its maximum operating temperature is +85 0 C. It is indicated on its body. And if you consider that the power supply case is compact and not ventilated, then the temperature inside it can be very high.

Long-term heating is very bad for the reliability of electrolytic capacitors. Therefore, I installed a Jamicon capacitor with a capacity of 68 μF * 450V, which is designed for operating temperatures up to 105 0 С.

It is worth considering that the capacity of the native capacitor is 120 uF, and the operating voltage is 420V. But I had to put in a capacitor with a smaller capacity.

In the process of repairing laptop power supplies, I encountered the fact that it is very difficult to find a replacement for the capacitor. And the point is not at all in the capacity or operating voltage, but in its dimensions.

Finding a suitable capacitor that would fit into a cramped case proved to be a daunting task. Therefore, it was decided to install a product of suitable size, albeit a smaller capacity. The main thing is that the capacitor itself is new, of high quality and with an operating voltage of at least 420

450V. As it turned out, even with such capacitors, the power supplies work properly.

When sealing a new electrolytic capacitor, you must strictly observe the polarity connect the pins! Typically, the PCB has a “+" or "–“. In addition, a minus can be marked with a black bold line or a mark in the form of a spot.

On the negative side of the capacitor case, there is a mark in the form of a strip with a minus sign “–“.

When turning on for the first time after repair, keep a distance from the power supply, because if the polarity of the connection is reversed, the capacitor will "pop" again. This can cause the electrolyte to get into the eyes. This is extremely dangerous! Wear protective goggles if possible.

And now I’ll tell you about the “rake”, which is better not to step on.

Before you change anything, you need to thoroughly clean the board and circuit elements from liquid electrolyte. This is not a pleasant occupation.

The fact is that when an electrolytic capacitor slams, the electrolyte inside it breaks out under great pressure in the form of splashes and steam. It, in turn, instantly condenses on the nearby parts, as well as on the elements of the aluminum radiator.

Since the installation of the elements is very tight, and the case itself is small, the electrolyte gets into the most inaccessible places.

Of course, you can cheat and not clean out all the electrolyte, but this is fraught with problems. The trick is that the electrolyte conducts electric current well. I was convinced of this from my own experience. And although I cleaned the power supply very carefully, I did not begin to solder the choke and clean the surface under it, I hurried.

As a result, after the power supply was assembled and connected to the mains, it worked properly. But after a minute or two, something crackled inside the case, and the power indicator went out.

After opening it, it turned out that the remaining electrolyte under the throttle closed the circuit. The fuse has blown because of this. T3.15A 250V on the input circuit 220V. In addition, in the place of the short circuit, everything was covered with soot, and the wire of the choke burned out, which connected its screen and the common wire on the printed circuit board.

The same choke. The burned-out wire was restored.

Soot from a short on the printed circuit board just below the choke.

As you can see, it jumped out decently.

The first time I replaced the fuse with a new one from a similar power supply. But when it burned down a second time, I decided to restore it. This is what the fuse on the board looks like.

And this is what he has inside. It can be easily disassembled, you just need to squeeze the latches at the bottom of the case and remove the cover.

To restore it, you need to remove the remnants of the burnt wire and the remnants of the insulating tube. Take a thin wire and solder it in place of your own. Then assemble the fuse.

Someone will say that this is a "bug". But I disagree. In the event of a short circuit, the thinnest wire in the circuit burns out. Sometimes even the copper tracks on the PCB will burn out. So in which case our self-made fuse will do its job. Of course, you can also do with a thin wire jumper by soldering it to the contact dimes on the board.

In some cases, in order to clean out all the electrolyte, it may be necessary to dismantle the cooling radiators, and with them active elements such as MOSFETs and dual diodes.

As you can see, liquid electrolyte can also remain under coil products, such as chokes. Even if it dries out, in the future, due to it, corrosion of the leads may begin. An illustrative example is in front of you. Due to electrolyte residues, one of the capacitor leads in the input filter completely corroded and fell off. This is one of the power adapters from the laptop that I have been repaired.

Let's go back to our power supply. After cleaning it from electrolyte residues and replacing the capacitor, it is necessary to check it without connecting it to a laptop. Measure the output voltage at the output plug. If everything is in order, then we assemble the power adapter.

I must say that this is a very time-consuming business. First.

The PSU cooling heatsink consists of multiple aluminum fins. Between themselves, they are fastened with latches, and are also glued with something resembling a silicone sealant. It can be removed with a pocket knife.

The upper radiator cover is fastened to the main part with latches.

The bottom plate of the heatsink is fixed to the PCB by soldering, usually in one or two places. A plastic insulating plate is placed between it and the PCB.

A few words about how to fasten the two halves of the body, which at the very beginning we sawed with a jigsaw.

In the simplest case, you can simply assemble the power supply and wrap the halves of the case with electrical tape. But this is not the best option.

I used hot melt glue to glue the two plastic halves together. Since I don't have a thermal gun, I cut off pieces of hot melt glue from the tube with a knife and put them in the grooves. After that, I took a hot air soldering station, set about 200 degrees

250 0 C. Then he heated pieces of hot melt glue with a hair dryer until they melted. I removed the excess glue with a toothpick and once again blew it with a hairdryer on the soldering station.

It is advisable not to overheat the plastic and generally avoid excessive heating of foreign parts. For me, for example, the plastic of the case began to brighten with strong heating.

Despite this, it turned out very soundly.

Now I will say a few words about other malfunctions.

In addition to such simple breakdowns as a slammed capacitor or an open in the connecting wires, there are also such as an open circuit in the choke output in the line filter circuit. Here is a photo.

It would seem that the matter is trifling, I rewound the coil and sealed it into place. But it takes a lot of time to find such a malfunction. It is not possible to detect it immediately.

Surely you have already noticed that large-sized elements, like the same electrolytic capacitor, filter chokes and some other parts, are smeared with something like a white sealant. It would seem, why is it needed? And now it is clear that with its help large parts are fixed, which can fall off from shaking and vibrations, like this very choke, which is shown in the photo.

By the way, initially it was not securely fixed. Chatted - chatted, and fell off, taking the life of another power supply from the laptop.

I suspect that thousands of compact and rather powerful power supplies are sent to the landfill from such banal breakdowns!

For a radio amateur, such a pulsed power supply with an output voltage of 19 - 20 volts and a load current of 3-4 amperes is just a godsend! Not only is it very compact, but also quite powerful. Typically, the wattage of power adapters is 40

Unfortunately, in case of more serious malfunctions, such as failure of electronic components on a printed circuit board, repair is complicated by the fact that it is rather difficult to find a replacement for the same PWM controller microcircuit.

It is not even possible to find a datasheet for a specific microcircuit. Among other things, the repair is complicated by the abundance of SMD components, the marking of which is either difficult to read or it is impossible to purchase a replacement element.

It is worth noting that the overwhelming majority of laptop power adapters are made of very high quality. This can be seen at least by the presence of winding parts and chokes that are installed in the network filter circuit. It suppresses electromagnetic interference. In some low-quality power supplies from stationary PCs, such elements may be absent altogether.

Lenovo charging repair - we will analyze the step-by-step method of repairing a charger or power supply for a laptop. To start direct repair of the power supply unit, you need to open it, which is not so easy to do as it seems at first glance. Nevertheless, you will have to open the block case with an object that can be used to disconnect the box. Most likely, a sharp screwdriver or knife will do.

After the case is divided into two parts, you need to dismantle the cooling radiator from it. But to facilitate the work, you must first unsolder the wire.

Then, at the output, we ring the wire with a multimeter in order to determine a short circuit and immediately ring the diode.

In the case of a broken diode, it is necessary to remove the heat sink on which the diode is fixed. You need to be careful here, as one side of the heatsink is soldered into the board. Well, then everything is clear - we change the diode to a known good one and put the radiator in place.

Do not forget, after replacing any part and soldering it into the board, cut off the excess length of its legs. It is good to clean the board with alcohol from the flux residues. To ensure the best contact between the diode pad and the radiator, heat-conducting paste KPT-8 should be applied to the attachment point.

At the next stage, we install the heat sink in place. At the same time, take measures to exclude a short circuit on the wire. If the wire is very twisted, then it is quite possible that a short circuit may occur in this place. Therefore, you need to cut off the plug on the wire with pliers and remove the insulation from it with the remnants of the wire.

The next step is to remove some of the insulation from the end of the wire, strip it thoroughly, and then solder the same place to the plug. Pay attention to the polarity when soldering - do not mix it up (see picture). Ensure no short circuit and fit heat shrink tubing over this connector.

Next, we solder the restored wire to the printed circuit board, also observing the polarity. The "GND" marking on the contact pad of the printed circuit board is used to connect the negative wire.

The assembly of the power supply unit must be carried out in stages in the reverse order. After installing all the parts in the housing, you do not need to glue it immediately. You must first check it for performance, and then glue it together.

I'll start with the background. One fine day an electrician came to my neighbors. And he climbed, for one reason known to him, with his crooked hands into my switchboard. As a result of his manipulations, 380V instead of 220V went to my apartment. Result: burned down everything that was included in the outlet. Namely: 2 chargers (Toshiba and HP) and power supply unit from 3G modem... Buy new chargers, giving $ 50 for each, I was sorry, so I decided to play with an electrician and a foreman. Actually repairing a charger from a laptop and it will be discussed further.

Well, a puddle, I solder, I fix the computer.

I just want to apologize for the quality of some of the pictures below - I took pictures with an iron.

Charger repair consider using the example of a device from HPbecause the second charger I am repaired before it fell into my hands camera iron.

That's actually itself charger from HP:

The first thing to do is open the charging case... The best way I could think of is to point a knife at the seam and hit it sharply with the handle of a screwdriver (you can also use a hammer, but I feel sorry for the knife).

The advantage of this method is that the edges of the halves of the case remain even and then they can be carefully glued together.

Opening the case, extract the filling. It is covered with metal plates. They need to be removed.

On the other hand, the plate will soldered.

We solder and remove the plates (my soldering iron is shit, so I just cut off the places with scissors solder).

Is now clearly visible charger malfunction - exploded big capacitorlocated in the middle. The drops that can be seen on the black plate - flowing out of capacitor electrolyte. The capacitor needs to be replaced. I'm for a new one (400V 100mF) gave about $ 2. By the way, in charger from Toshiba the fault was the same, but capacitor 420V 82mF... I did not find this, so I also put 400V 100mF... Everything is working.

And so, we need evaporate old capacitor... To do this, remove the black plate (when assembling, it is important not to forget it, because it insulates the contacts from the metal case).

White shit with which the entire board is stained, you need to carefully pick out in places soldering capacitor... Don't worry, this is just a sealant that held the black plate to the board. Rip off and we solder the capacitor.

Solder new capacitor (do not forget to look at the old capacitor where the + and - were. For those who do not know, there is a vertical strip on the condenser on the minus side.)

Now we collect everything as it was, push it into the body and glue the halves of the body. I used "Moment" for this.

Charger looks almost like new and great working.

When buying a laptop or netbook, or rather calculating the budget for this purchase, we do not take into account further associated costs. The laptop itself costs, say, $ 500, but another $ 20 bag, $ 10 mouse. The battery when replaced (and its warranty life is only a couple of years) will cost $ 100, and the same will be the cost of the power supply if it burns out.

It is about him that the conversation will go here. One not very wealthy friend recently stopped working the power supply for an acer laptop. You will have to pay almost a hundred dollars for a new one, so it would be quite logical to try to fix it yourself. The PSU itself is a traditional black plastic box with an electronic pulse converter inside, providing a voltage of 19V at a current of 3A. This is the standard for most laptops and the only difference between them is the power plug :). Immediately I give here several diagrams of power supplies - click to enlarge.

When the power supply is turned on, nothing happens - the LED does not light up and the voltmeter shows zero at the output. Checking the power cord with an ohmmeter gave nothing. We disassemble the case. Although it's easier said than done: there are no screws or screws provided here, so we'll break it! To do this, you need to put a knife on the connecting seam and hit it lightly with a hammer. Do not overdo it, or cut the board!

After the case is slightly parted, we insert a flat screwdriver into the formed gap and with force we draw along the contour of the connection of the halves of the case, gently breaking it along the seam.

Having disassembled the case, we check the board and parts for anything black and charred.

The dialing of the input circuits of the 220V mains voltage revealed a malfunction - this is a self-healing fuse, which for some reason did not want to recover from an overload :)

We replace it with a similar one, or with a simple fusible one with a current of 3 amperes and check the operation of the power supply unit. The green LED lit up, indicating the presence of 19V, but there is still nothing on the connector. More precisely, sometimes something slips, as if the wire is bent.

We'll also have to repair the power supply cord to the laptop. Most often, a break occurs at the point where it is inserted into the case or at the power connector.

We cut it off first at the body - no luck. Now near the plug that is inserted into the laptop - again there is no contact!

A hard case - a cliff somewhere in the middle. The easiest option is to cut the cord in half and leave the working half, and discard the non-working one. And so he did.

We solder the connectors back and carry out the tests. Everything worked - the repair is over.

It remains only to glue the halves of the case with glue "moment" and give the power supply to the customer. The entire BP repair took no more than an hour.

Greetings friends. Today we will consider questions of this kind.

Recently, the battery on a Lenovo laptop has become poorly charged. Lenovo Laptop Charger seems to be in order (checked on another laptop). But when you put it on charge after 2-3 hours, the battery can hardly be charged.

Also, once the battery is fully charged, the battery will drain quickly. Tell me, is this a problem with the power supply or battery? Can you fix the breakage yourself?

In this situation, there is a full range of problems with the laptop power supply. Let's start with Lenovo laptop batteries... Over time, it can discharge faster - this is a normal situation for an uncalibrated laptop battery Lenovo.

First run laptop battery calibration... In most cases, this procedure will restore the original performance of your Lenovo laptop battery. If it doesn't help, then

you will either have to replace the battery for a Lenovo laptop or repair it. The article will help you with this - laptop battery repair.

Based on your words, the Lenovo laptop charger is ok, although it's worth checking the laptop cable. If there are problems with it, then it should be replaced. Most likely you have a problem with the power connector. If it is loose, then the battery will either not charge at all or only for a while.

This is most likely the reason when, after a few hours, the battery is still not charged. I recommend repairing or laptop power connector replacement... If, nevertheless, it turns out that the problem is with the power supply, then you can try to perform laptop power supply repair on one's own. Success

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This laptop has a broken laptop charging socket. From the constant connection of the charger "with force", the connector fell inward. Lenovo laptop stopped turning on the power supply plug was not fully inserted into the connector, and the battery was discharged!

The photo shows that the connector went inside. If the connector is soldered on the board, then most likely it broke off and you will have to order a new one. If the connector is on the cable and is fixed in the case, then you may have to change the bottom cover of the laptop. In order to find out it is necessary to disassemble the laptop!

Let's start by removing the battery. To do this, we move the latches that fix the battery.

Next, unscrew the two bolts and slide the cover, under which the RAM and hard drive.

Next, I unscrewed the two screws on the hard drive and removed it. Perhaps his bolts do not hold anything together, but I decided to remove it.

There were hidden bolts under the hard drive. If I had not removed it, then during parsing I would have wondered for a long time what was holding the lid or would have accidentally broken them off! We unscrew them.

The hidden bolt turned out to be one, the second was visible. Next, unscrew the DVDROM bolt and take it out of the case.

Under it, I found 3 bolts that need to be unscrewed.

We unscrew the rest of the bolts on the back cover of the laptop.

We turn the laptop over, carefully open the lid so as not to break the hinges.the fasteners are already unscrewed from the case. In my case, there were no two bolts on the hinges and the fasteners from them were already broken off. We snap off the fasteners on the top of the keyboard, between the F1-F12 keys and the main body. I do it very well with my nails, better than any gadgets, and less likely to break!

Remove the keyboard and disconnect the ribbon cable.

Disconnect the cable of the power button and touchpad of the Lenovo laptop. We unscrew the only bolt under the keyboard. There is a warranty sticker on it, tearing off which you fly off the warranty. But most likely your laptop is no longer under warranty. You have to be very strong to break the connector in less than a year. And the plastic of the case most likely breaks down from overheating.

In the photo below, the power connector is next to the usb connector. If you look closely, you can see the broken and curved parts of the case, which fixed the power connector.

Correctly it was necessary to change the case, taking into account 2 broken hinge mountings. This is what I did in one of the previous posts. But since the rest of the mounts hold the hinges, let's try to repair the laptop's power connector. To do this, I took a glue gun and filled the void between the socket and the metal hinge. This will prevent the connector from going inside, and the lid will fix the glue on top.

That's what I did. Isn't that a bad idea and what a savings! The new building costs at least 2,000 rubles. After assembly, the laptop worked. The power connector has been repaired!

A broken power adapter is not uncommon. Most often, a laptop power supply () fails due to rough handling or a sudden power surge in the network. Having discovered that the reason for the lack of power in the charger, you can send the device for repair, buy a new one, or try to fix the device yourself. The latter option will be the cheapest, subject to knowledge of electrical engineering. Otherwise, there is a risk to finally "finish off" the charger and burn the computer.

Let's list the most common malfunctions, and why they happen:

1. Cable. A break or a pinch of wires is a logical consequence of sharp dog teeth, placed on the cord of a chair or sofa leg.
2. Connector. A classic example, they put the laptop on charge, forgot and decided to move the computer to another room. The result is a torn plug from the laptop socket.
3. Power supply battery. Electronic "filling" most often "burns" due to a voltage drop. In second place is spilled liquid, in third place is a fall onto a tiled floor from a height.

Batteryion's specialists give instructions, how to fix laptop charger.

So, if you have sufficient experience in "communicating" with a soldering iron and know how to read electrical circuits, you can start repairing the adapter. We will tell you how to fix the two most common power supply failures with your own hands.

To repair the electronic converter of the adapter, you need to open the plastic case of the device. To do this, find a longitudinal seam on the box, insert a thin knife or flat screwdriver and carefully separate the case into two halves.

Remove the "filling", if it is covered with metal plates, they must be carefully removed or unsoldered.

Now you can see the "scale of the tragedy." For further steps, you will need a network adapter diagram. From it it is easy to determine which elements, with what parameters, are connected to the circuit.

The broken element must be disconnected and replaced with a new one. Please note that a serviceable spare part must be identical in characteristics to the old one. After soldering a new part, you need to place the board in the case and carefully glue the halves of the adapter.

After the glue is dry, you can put your laptop on charge.

If this procedure seems too complicated, immediately buy a new power supply unit ().

Most often, the power supply cord "suffers". BatteriOn consultants shared their experience on how to fix this breakdown.

Cable repair instructions:

1. Cut off the cable from the power supply unit.
2. Strip the wires.
3. Take a new plug, cut the wires and screw them in parallel along the central one.
4. Solder the junction with a special technical hair dryer. You can use electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. The latter should be immediately put on the cord.
5. So that there is no short circuit - insulate the connected wires.
6. Connect the charger to the laptop and turn it on.

Now you know, how to repair laptop power supply... If you have confidence in your abilities and the necessary tools, you can start repairing. But experts warn: unsuccessful repairs can aggravate the situation and a burned-out laptop will be added to the inoperative charging.

Beautyful Thank your very much- Im also working with Wilde Herbs and Flowers- I would like to get your Translaten- thank you MM MARA

How to carry out an independent diagnosis and identify a breakdown following typical signs.
Laptop owners are often faced with malfunctions of laptop charging elements. It is easy to find out that the breakdown is connected precisely with charging and its components, a laptop that has been working on the mains, without using a battery for a long enough time, suddenly turned off for some unknown reason, especially when the location of the laptop changes.

How can an ordinary user find out what exactly is the cause of the breakdown, the plug or socket of the power supply connector, without resorting to the help of professionals?

In this article, we will consider some options for how to independently detect a defect of this type without contacting a computer repair specialist. This article presents the most simplified ways to find such a breakdown.

Before starting to independently identify a breakdown, it should be noted that our workshop in the city of Minsk will make repairs while guaranteeing high quality and speed of service. If you have any breakdowns associated with charging your laptop, we will help you quickly and inexpensively fix them.

In order to almost accurately establish the cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to carry out several simple manipulations.

In order to eliminate a defect that leads to a permanent shutdown of the laptop as a result of a damaged power supply connector, you do not need to have special equipment and skills at hand. For such a simple operation, it is enough to be able to work with a soldering iron, and also have a connector of the required type. Depending on the location of the damage, it may be necessary to disassemble the case of the laptop itself or the case of its power supply. This is done in order to replace a broken limit switch and plug.

To begin with, we will abandon the use of complex specialized terms and figure out how the laptop power circuit works.

Let's make a reservation right away that we will not take the battery into account, since it was initially absent in the terms of reference. Also, the user should understand that other, more serious breakdowns, not only a problem with its power supply, can be the reason for the shutdown. One of the reasons may be excessive overheating or a defect in the motherboard resulting from the use of the laptop.

Based on the above factors, it should be concluded that the diagnosis of a breakdown must be carried out using a working, connected and charged battery.

Important! In cases where a new working battery is installed in the laptop, but shutdowns still occur, then most likely the cause of the breakdown lies not in the charging system.

In more detail, in order, we will analyze the main components of a switching power supply (UPS):

• power cable (plug for 220V, connector type C5 x 2.5A);
• UPS unit;
• plug, limit switch (the plug enters the charge socket located at the end of the laptop).

Often, the laptop charging port is located next to the monitor on the right side or at the back of the laptop case. Many craftsmen note that most often the socket fails, where the charge plug or the plug itself is inserted.

The main reasons for the occurrence of such a breakdown in laptops include the following:

• not careful operation of laptop charging, frequent connections - disconnecting the power plug;
• mechanical damage to the switching power supply cord (pressure, sudden jerks);
• sagging of the charging cord and power supply unit at the moment of direct use of the laptop, when a heavy unit dangles from the connector or hangs in a taut position.

In order to quickly and accurately, without using a multimeter and another, similar laptop, find out which part is out of order, charge socket or plug, you need to check the plug itself for damage and integrity violations. It is very easy to carry out such a manipulation.

To understand whether the charging plug itself is the cause of the breakdown, you need to try to move its metal base while holding the black plastic end of the plug with your free hand. If the iron part of the plug gives in to pressure and moves, this almost certainly indicates that it is the plug that is the cause of the breakdown.

In order to find out if the charging connector in the laptop is broken, you need to use tweezers and try to move the central contact of the plug with it. Remember that this action should only be carried out with the battery disconnected and as carefully as possible. If you notice that the central contact is noticeably "backlash", then the reason for the breakdown may well lie in this.

Also, it is possible to identify the place of breakdown of the charging element by excessive heat release, this is due to the fact that the transition resistance increases in the place of deformation, which in turn leads to excessive heating and loss of power. To do this, you just need to touch the laptop case in the place where the laptop charge connector and the cord plug are located, and thus determine whether these areas are heating up.

If you find a similar place of heating / breakage, then such a breakdown can be eliminated by completely replacing the socket or end switch of the charger.

Such methods of quick self-diagnosis of a breakdown are suitable for most of the most common models and manufacturers of laptops today. For example, such as Asus, Benq, HP, Lenovo, Toshiba and many others, the only exceptions are Mac laptops.

It is much more difficult to inspect a laptop socket without having to disassemble it.

It should be borne in mind that the connector socket is a vulnerable spot for most computer manufacturers. Owners of such laptops are much more likely to face the breakdown of various charging elements. Laptops from Asus have not proven themselves very well in this regard, since they are often equipped with unreliable charging connectors.

It is not necessarily the brand of the laptop that is the determining factor during the diagnosis of breakdowns associated with a sudden shutdown of the laptop. However, if you have sufficient knowledge about the possible defects of your laptop, you may be able to avoid such typical problems and breakdowns, and further repairs will not be necessary.

Remember that timely prevention is necessary for the adequate operation of any computer equipment.