VIDEO
The repair of the charging input on the phone is over! If you did everything correctly, then the former performance will return. We hope that henceforth you will not have to face such a problem very soon, and for this you just need to carefully handle your equipment.
First, we find out what is inside the proprietary charging from Samsung. We unscrew two screws, open the plastic doors and we can contemplate a typical charge controller.
One has only to look closely, as it becomes immediately apparent that the negative (black) wire has fallen off. It is this problem that occurs in 90% of all chargers for phones, smartphones and tablets.
It is enough to solder this wire back to make the Samsung E700 mobile phone charger work. Below is the pinout of this connector, just in case.
Most often, if the charger from the mobile phone malfunctions, the problem is hidden in the charger plug or in the wire we go to it. To check this malfunction, it is necessary to cut the wire at a distance of 5-10 cm from the plug, if there is no wire breakage, we can quite easily connect the plug to the charger. Then we clean the wire from insulation. We take the multimeter switched to the DC voltage measurement mode and take readings when the charger is connected to the network.
If the voltmeter shows any value, then there is no damage in the power supply unit of the charger and in the connecting wire. We do the same with the plug from the charger. We clean the wire from insulation and insert a thin needle (paper clip) into the inside of the connector. In the multimeter, set the dialing mode and check the integrity of the connector. If necessary, we change it to a new one or carefully open it with a sharp knife with an old one, and then, after fixing the problem, put on several thermocambrics on it.
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Thus, you can practically make any charger (unless, of course, you can see burnt parts), it does not matter from a phone or smartphone with a USB port, as a rule, in 80% of cases it is the input resistor that fails.
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If you are reading this page, then you have problem with the charging connector or cable of the Samsung Galaxy Tab ... This connector is so arranged that the cable scrolls inside the connector and gradually breaks and comes off. Today we will figure out how to decide to repair the Samsung Galaxy Tab connector. I got my hands on a charger for the Galaxy Tab especially made in China Vertex TC-01U .
The tablet plug itself contains contacts only for the charging process - this makes the task easier.
To be on the safe side, I disassembled the power supply to make sure the torn wires weren't shorted or burnt anything. The power supply is disassembled quite simply - a few blows along the seam and the case splits into two halves.
We inspect the board - you need to make sure the integrity of all radioelements.
We look especially closely at the soldering - it looks like the drunken Chinese were soldering with their eyes closed. I have soldered almost all the board and soldered the power wires because they held on to their word of honor.
Now let's move on to the connector - you need to disassemble it. Carefully use a thin blade or needle to remove the latches on the sides.
We take out the connector and look at a sad sight.
It can be seen that resistors are installed here - we do not touch them. Need to solder plus and minus to its original place.
Galaxy Tab connector pinout shown in the figure - for +5 volts we need contacts Vout_charger.
Carefully solder the wires without closing the contacts with solder.
It is also necessary to solder as firmly as possible so that the wire does not break again.
We assemble the connector back by simply snapping on the plastic. If the connector falls apart during disassembly, you will have to assemble it with glue. I also glued the cable entry into the connector so that it does not rotate.
Before charging the device, check the connector by measuring the voltage across the contacts with needle probes.
That's all - charging for working properly. If it was not possible to successfully repair the Samsung Galaxy Tab connector, then you can buy it for cheap charger Samsung Galaxy Tab.
Sat 12 Jul 2014
When purchasing a used car, you may find that it lacks a built-in USB connector for charging modern and so convenient gadgets. When the smartphone is connected to the USB input from the radio (standard / non-standard), the charge controller determines the power source as “non-kosher” and goes into slow charge mode and, accordingly, there will be no fast charging of the smartphone battery as on the native (authorized) charger of the gadget.
For example, for Samsung Galaxy Note2, a 1% increase in battery power occurs in about 10 minutes. Sometimes, when using the navigator, the smartphone had time to discharge more than the radio was charging it.
For my Peugeot 206, I corrected this flaw in an elegant way: I made a charger using the connector switching circuits as in the original Apple and Samsung chargers. The choice of the installation site was determined by itself - this is a regular ashtray.
In general, linear stabilizers get quite hot and therefore it was decided to use only a 12-5V pulse converter with high efficiency (to reduce heating). A suitable option for this is the MC33167T microcircuit.
The schematic diagram of the fast charger does not differ much from the one recommended by the manufacturer of the microcircuit, with the exception of the indication on the LED and resistive body kits near the USB connector.
Any low-power LED can be used as an indicator. It is more convenient to use a double USB connector. Resistors can be set to SMD or 0.125 W pigtails. The diode must be Schottky with a current of at least 5 A and a voltage of 10 V. Capacitors must have a voltage of at least 16 V. It is better to choose a choke of at least 180 μH or more. Switch SA1 - at least 3 A. It is also better to use a microcircuit with a letter marking at the end of the "T", as it works even at sub-zero temperatures.
Electrical characteristics of the inverter
Operating temperature range: ……………. -40… + 85 С
Importantly, the fast charger has a dual USB connector: one for Samsung and the other for Apple.
So, the radio parts were bought and let's go ...
We develop a printed circuit board for a limited size. This is our topology and location of denominations.
We print it out, transfer it to the board using the LUT method and see what happened.
We poison in ferric chloride and drill holes with different drills
It's time to tin the tracks.
Let us transfer the figures by the LUT method to the upper surface.
This is followed by the soldering of parts and installation of the radiator
It's time to mount it in the ashtray. Preparing the front panel. Cut holes with a drill and file with a file
I insert the board with the converter into the ashtray, the wires from the switch into the hole for the switch, the power wires into the hole on the ashtray, I apply hot glue along the edges and stick the front panel. I solder the switch and the case is DONE.
With correct and accurate installation of radio components, the device does not need adjustment and turns on immediately.
Here are the boards already ready for printing on a coated sheet: the bottom layer and the top layer. No mirroring required.
Tell me please. There is a ready-made car charger how to make kosher out of it for notes2
It's very simple: take the final part with resistors from this circuit and adapt it for ready-made charging. This will charge almost any Samsung on Android.
Good health. Thanks a lot. For a long time I thought to solder it myself ... since these Chinese are annoying ... they don't want to charge at all .. and in winter they wait until they warm up ... tell me which one is for the Samsung and which one is for the iPhone?)
Good evening. Can this circuit be used to charge the phone and power the navigator at the same time?
Good afternoon. To the author of this invention…. please, can I send a printed circuit board to lay. I can not drive it into the original size from the photo.
Good afternoon. Please describe all the ingredients of this board in more detail.
First, the block needs to be disassembled. Judging by the seams on the case, this unit is not intended for disassembly, therefore, the thing is disposable and in the event of a breakdown, one can not pin high hopes.
I had to literally raskurochit the case of the charger, it consists of two tightly glued parts.
Inside there is a primitive board and a few details. Interestingly, the board is not soldered to the 220V plug, but is attached to it with a pair of pins. In rare cases, these contacts can oxidize and lose contact, and you think that the block has broken. But the thickness of the wires going to the mobile phone connector pleased me pleasantly, you don't often find a normal wire in disposable devices, usually it's so thin that it's scary to even touch it).
There were several details on the back side of the board, the circuit was not so simple, but still it is not so complicated that you would not be able to fix it yourself.
Below in the photo are the contacts of the inside of the case.
There is no step-down transformer in the charger circuit; an ordinary resistor plays its role. Then, as usual, a couple of rectifying diodes, a pair of capacitors for rectifying the current, then a choke and finally a zener diode with a capacitor complete the chain and output the reduced voltage to a wire with a connector to a mobile phone.
The connector has only two pins.
When such a charger breaks down, first of all, pay attention to the appearance of the parts, often only by appearance it is possible to determine which part is out of order. Inspect the throttle carefully, it has a very thin wire and it can simply burst. If you cannot identify anything by eye, and you yourself do not understand anything in electronics, ask those in the know to check the details with a tester. If the power supply cannot be repaired at all, then you can assemble your circuit much easier, and if you use a step-down transformer in the circuit, as is done in branded memory from Nokia mobile phones, then problems with breakdowns will disappear for a long time. And finally, the easiest way to fix this charger is to buy a new one 🙂
Siemens has chargers with a switching-type power supply, in the article the board is described as a parametric power supply. This is fundamentally wrong. It was not written by a professional. The article price is zero.
charging is original costly the same Chinese 50 rubles and in the purchase 20!
I disassemble the glued chargers, power supplies by gently tapping on the body in the places where they are glued with a rubber mallet. The body rests on an anvil.
I completely agree with Alexander about the incorrect description, but the photo of the disassembled charge may be interesting for those who understand.
... as Kuravlyov said in the famous film. "Well, and duraaaak."
It would be nice to write the values \ u200b \ u200bof all resistors, or although R13 and R16
Thank you for the article. It is stated in an accessible and understandable way. Repaired charging. It turns out that some piece of iron fell off, I put it in and OK!
The article describes a typical malfunction of mobile phone chargers. A diagram of one of such blocks is given, drawn up according to a "live" sample, recommendations are given on changing the output parameters and using the repaired block in amateur radio practice.
The fault was the zener diode, conventionally designated in the diagram in Fig. 1 by number 7. It had a leak and "floating" parameters.
For two years I have been the proud owner of a Samsung N143 laptop. I use a computer every day. If I have a power source, I always use a charger to extend the battery life in a laptop.
One day, after plugging in the charger, the power indicator in the laptop showed no signs of life.
On the power supply itself, the network indicator was on.
First of all, I took a multimeter and checked the output voltage of the charger. The measurement showed a low output voltage.
Having examined the charger, I did not find any bolts. Using the Internet, I found out that almost all laptop charger cases are connected with glue. To disconnect the case, mechanical destruction is required. I found different ways to disconnect on the Internet:
1. Break the body with a knife (scalpel) and a hammer along the joint seam.
I didn't want to break the case with a knife, I was afraid that the plastic would crumble. I didn’t drown in water, it’s complete nonsense. I tried to warm up the case with a hairdryer, but it didn't work. He began to pick with a scalpel along the seam of the joint. Nothing really worked, only the plastic was deformed and the appearance of the case deteriorated. He refused this method and began to knock on the seam with a rubber hammer. In the end, nothing came of it, later it turned out that the filtering choke had disappeared from the vibrations, something else began to rattle, and I did not find out what exactly. It was a bad idea to knock with a hammer, it just created unnecessary problems for myself.
In order not to spoil the appearance of the case, I decided to cut the plastic along the seam, or rather neatly scratched the seam with the butt of a scalpel. First, I scratched the body along the entire length, on both sides. Little by little, the connection began to yield. It turned out that the body was glued on three sides. Along the length and near the output voltage wire, and even then, not very good.
The body did not lend itself to separation through the design features of the grooves.
Other power supplies may be easier to disconnect. Somewhere badly glued, not high-quality glue, the design is simpler, etc. It all depends on the manufacturer.
After hitting the body with a hammer, the mains indicator stopped lighting. Having disassembled the case, using a multimeter, I found an open circuit on the throttle. Having soldered the choke, I measured the output voltage on the board. It turned out that a wire had been broken somewhere. A break was found near the plug.
The cliff section was cut off. The plug is made of rubber, armed with a blade and scalpel, began to cut it in two along the connection lines.
I fiddled with him for a very long time. Under the rubber was another ball, harder, similar to plastic, with which the plug of the plug was filled.
After I cut the plug, I soldered the wires to the plug, having previously insulated them with a heat shrink tube.
After that, the rubber case could no longer accommodate the soldered wires with a plug. I had to cut out parts of the plastic inside in order to accommodate the wires, as well as for a tighter fit of the rubber bands to each other. At first I tried to cut it with a blade, but it didn’t work. Cut it out with a hot scalpel. The main thing was not to spoil the plastic grooves in which the plug was fixed.
I connected the two parts of the plug with rubber glue, so that in the event of a breakdown it would be easier to disassemble.
The plug was placed in a heat-shrink tube, it became almost like new.
Now it was necessary to connect the charger body. Initially I wanted to fix it with a heat shrink tube, but changed my mind. It would not look aesthetically pleasing.
I decided to glue the two parts with two-component epoxy glue, pouring it into the cut holes along the length.
And fixed with a clamp.
I started preparing the glue.
The surface was degreased, glue was poured between the ends, but not completely. I left a small indentation so that it was as before.
It didn't work out the first time. The glue hardens completely after 24 hours, and the clamp was removed earlier, there was also a very low roughness of the ends. And for this, the body was disconnected.
After that, the roughness of the ends was increased.
Coarse emery cloth.
Video (click to play).
For greater reliability, the joint was completely filled with glue to the top.
