In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the teeth of the electric meat grinder gear from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
More and more often, in the trade market and even in large mega-tech centers, buyers ask sellers about the guaranteed level of reliability and the quality of the purchased goods. Some people really want to sell the product. Others want to buy it, but a third party produces what someone will buy anyway.
Believe it or not, a lot of brand-name products are often ‘children's toys’.
Another indignation of the hostess was caused by the recently purchased electric meat grinder. In the assembled state, when the electric motor is turned on, the auger rotates. When feeding the product for chopping into the auger chamber electric meat grinder auger stops even though the motor runs non-stop.
There are several reasons that can cause such a malfunction.
- Inaccurate assembly of the transmission mechanism.
Sometimes the ‘curious’ owners of electric combines or ordinary electric meat grinders are drawn to carry out maintenance, which often ends in ‘technical murder’ or ‘mutilation’ of the kitchen unit.
During such services, hammers and other tools for other purposes are used. Lubrication of rubbing parts with sunflower oil or complete removal of factory grease. Replacement of parts made of inappropriate material, repairs using inappropriate glue, open fire, impacts. With this technique, skews appear in the axes of rotation, chips, and an uneven gap in the teeth of the gears.
- Breakdown of the motor shaft from the drive gear of the reducer.
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Video (click to play). |
The drive gear of the reducer is mounted directly on the rotor shaft of the electric motor. On different models of an electric meat grinder or food processor, the gear is fixed on the motor shaft through a key, pin, through lock, spline connection or pressing.
Due to jamming in the gearbox, with excessive load on the auger, overheating of the electric motor with heat transfer to the shaft, the fixation between the electric motor shaft and the drive gear is weakened. It breaks the splines and the key, and with a locking connection with a through lock, the gear breaks, the pressing weakens immediately. In such cases, the rotor shaft of the electric motor rotates freely in the drive gear housing.
But when the gearbox is still reliable, stopping the electric motor can lead to overheating of the electric motor windings and its failure.
The auger in the chamber without load can rotate intermittently or evenly, but slower than usual and with a characteristic sound. Electric meat grinder gearbox also has its own sound, which is also manifested in good condition.
- Broken teeth on the transmission gears of the reducer.
A similar case is rare and more on old units or on an assembly with low-quality material. When the teeth of the gears are worn or when the gap between the teeth of the intermediate gears is uneven, one of the gears of the reducer jumps tooth to tooth with jamming or breaks loose teeth, the fragments of which fall into the gaps between the remaining teeth of the gears.
When the teeth on the gears break off or the gears of the reducer wedge 'tooth to tooth', the rotor shaft of the electric motor can turn in the drive gear housing with a press-fit connection or tear off the pin, key or retainer.
- Rotation of the shaft in the drive housing or in the driven plastic gear wheel of the gearbox.
Modern electric meat grinders are usually equipped with synchronous electric motors with sufficient shaft power.
When the gearbox jams when the electric motor is on, the connection between the motor shaft and the drive gear is often weakened. Can tear off a key, pin, slot. The fixation of the motor shaft with the drive gear will weaken and the shaft will turn in the gear itself.
In the case when the gearbox is made of durable material and assembled without violations of the assembly technology, there is a rotation of the driven gear on its shaft, the elongated part of which serves to transfer rotation to the meat grinder auger through the 'shaft to shaft' connection. But this very rarely happens when the rotating auger is completely jammed and its shaft and the driven gear shaft are tired.
- And the most unpredictable and not uncommon reason is ‘licking’ of the driven gear shaft of the reducer by the auger shaft.
The hardness of the steel used for the auger shafts and the driven gear of the reduction gear is insufficient. The steel is soft and very easily amenable to any cold work. There is even a trace of a simple kitchen knife.
With the next assembly of the auger chamber for chopping some product, the tightness of the 'shaft to shaft' connection between the auger shaft and the driven shaft of the gearbox weakens over time. The connection gap increases and there comes a moment when, with an increase in the load on the meat grinder auger, the shafts rotate relative to each other. The edges and edges of the shafts 'lick' and the stronger the softer the steel and the greater the load.
It happens that the manufacturer did not provide for the full compatibility of parts and completes his product with parts only in some parameters, that is, it corresponds to the diameter - does not correspond to the length, corresponds to the length and diameter - does not correspond to the fastening. And the main discrepancy is the discrepancy of the material for the parts used to the expected degrees of stress on them.
The first photo above shows that the auger shaft was not fully fitted onto the driven shaft of the gearbox. The reason is simple: the auger shaft was made 6 mm shorter and the effective connection area was less than envisaged - only four millimeters. Either the auger from other models, or the auger shaft is made ‘their own way’ or with defects.
Corrected such a defect in a meat grinder using electric welding and emery stone.
The rest is simple. On an emery stone, without a strong pressure, they grinded off the head so that in the assembled state the driven shaft of the gearbox would fully enter the auger shaft, and when the knife was installed, the grate would not completely enter its seat.
The clamping nut can be used to adjust the tightness between the knife and the grate, which affects the quality of cutting the product and the operation of the kitchen unit as a whole.
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- violation of various contacts of the electrical circuit;
- deformation of the engine rotor;
- breakage of the teeth of the gears of the reducer - arises from the increased load;
- malfunctions of the electric motor, extreme wear of the brushes;
- wear of the cutting tool due to the processing of too stringy meat, the ingress of small bones due to the user's oversight;
- breakage of keys, safety devices;
- damage to insulation, power cord;
- replacing the motor or rewinding its windings.
- The engine does not reach the set speed - the reason may be broken switch or the engine itself. Replace worn mechanisms or an electric motor.
- Interruptions observed in the drive - extreme wear of graphite brushes, you need to install new ones.
- Extraneous sounds, burning smell during product operation - defective engine... To restore it, you need diagnostics, repair or complete replacement. However, the cost of replacing the engine is quite high - it will be more cost effective to purchase a new grinder and solve the problem.
- The reason for the appearance of sounds unusual for the normal operation of the meat grinder may be bearingsthat wear out during operation. To confirm the diagnosis, it is necessary to disassemble the main body of the product, get to the place of their installation and check the rotation, if necessary, replace it.
- Reducing the speed of the electric motor - overload, the food is fed too fast, the meat grinder does not have time to grind them. The Kenwood mg model is especially susceptible to this problem. Reduce the feed dosage and everything is normalized.
- No shaft rotation - the transmission mechanism of the reducer is seized... One of the gears or its teeth may be broken and need to be replaced.
- The product auger has stopped.If at the same time the engine is operating in the same mode, then turn off the meat grinder and dismantle its mechanical part in order to find out the reason.
- before starting work, always carefully check if the assembly is correct and reliable fixation of all parts;
- pay special attention to the contact between the cutting tool and the grate - they must fit snugly, the fixing nut must be tightened with effort;
- cut the product into piecesnot exceeding the diameter of the loading cylinder, in order to avoid them getting stuck;
- disassemble, clean and rinse all parts and the internal volume of the meat grinder after each use;
- keep all parts of the mechanical part of the product only disassembled.
- An unnecessary toothbrush.
- Detergent.
- Two-component epoxy adhesive - cold weld for plastic.
- Epoxy resin with hardener.
- The cement is dry.
Presumably caprolone. Shave some sawdust, and try to dissolve them in 70% vinegar from the grocery store (a small bottle of 15 rubles is worth). If it works out, you will have to add up to a 40% solution (approximately) with water, and glue it like you tried with dichloroethane. But 100% of the strength of the original will not work, alas, but it will still serve.
So I restored the gear in the electric massager. Native stood for 3 years, cut off a couple of teeth, after “building up” it stood for a year, and cut off what it was building + a dozen more teeth => in the trash.
Post has been editedAmid89: 22 December 2014 - 15:20
I understand that in the kitchen it is still better to have a good meat grinder like a kitchen aid (or at worst Bosh), but I have only a Scarlett meat grinder in my kitchen
Since I use it 5 times a year at most, a cheap meat grinder is enough for me. Well, or enough, until one fine moment the auger was blocked by some kind of vein, and with the screeching of a wounded beast, a metal worm on the rotor of the electric motor cut off several plastic teeth of the gear reducer
Well, let's try to fix it.Let's take measurements and look for such a gear on aliexpress. In fairness, it should be noted that these gears are usually available in local SC and cost 500 rubles, but I did not want to go anywhere, and the repair was not urgent. Therefore, I decided to order it on Ali.
I must say that there is enough lubricant in the gearbox, but over time it accumulates somewhere below. It is necessary to return it to the gears, and if there is not enough lubrication, then add
Ready. We assemble the meat grinder and use it!
Thank you for your attention and happy shopping!
The electric assistant today is very popular and in high demand among Russian buyers. Despite high-quality manufacturing and high reliability in operation, electrical appliances tend to break down over time. Many breakdowns can be repaired at home, so we will tell you in detail about the repair of an electric meat grinder, which you can easily do with your own hands.
It doesn't matter what kind of meat grinder you have - Kenwood, Zelmer or Moulinex, each of them has its own nuances, but the faults are pretty typical for all. Electric meat grinder repair specialists have compiled the following register of the main problems encountered in these products:
Many failures of reliable technology are due to violations of operating conditions and only a few - a factory defect or a human factor during assembly.
If any malfunction occurs, it is necessary to immediately carry out diagnostics in order to find out the cause and localize the breakdown. Inspection of the mechanical part of the product is carried out visually, and the electrical circuits are checked with special devices. If a visual inspection of all parts of the mechanical part did not give a positive result, then you need to dismantle the product and inspect the gearbox, electric motor. May have happened clogged lubricant rubbing parts, the bearings do not work correctly, they need to be replaced.
Timely diagnostics allows you to identify and eliminate malfunctions at an early stage of their development, which significantly extends the life of the entire product.
Let's consider in detail the malfunctions of the meat grinder and methods of their correction.
In the latter case, there are several reasons for the occurrence of such an unusual failure: incorrect assembly of the gearbox, cranking of the motor shaft, breakage of the drive gear teeth, and very rarely licking of the connection by the auger shaft (erasure of the hexagon).
On a note! The non-conformity of the metal of the part leads to its failure during the ultimate load.
If the hexagonal receiver, where the auger shaft is inserted, is made by mistake of a softer metal, then during operation it quickly expands, or its edges wear off, the tight contact will be broken... The same can happen with the auger tip. It is difficult to repair a meat grinder with such problems with your own hands; the help of professional repairmen of similar equipment is required.
In order for the electric meat grinder to delight you with flawless work for a long time, you must follow simple recommendations for proper operation:
Special attention! Before processing meat and fish, it is necessary to free them from bones, remove large veins, make sure that small bones that can damage the knives do not get inside the product.
Do not turn on the meat grinder without loading, do not try to push through the stuck pieces of food with your hands - there is a special pusher for this, never overload it. If you thoroughly fulfill all the requirements, then the product will work flawlessly for the entire period assigned to it by the manufacturer, and she will not need repairs with her own hands.
Nowadays, there are a lot of mechanisms around us where plastic gears are used. Moreover, it can be both toy cars and quite serious things, for example, an antenna lift in a car, a spinning gearbox, and so on. The reasons for the breakage of gears can be different, of course, most of them are associated with improper operation, but this is not about that now. If you are already in such a situation and you have broken a couple of gear teeth, then there is a way out how not to pay for an expensive part, but to restore it in a simple way.
Cold welding glue should be liquid, in tubes. Be sure to look on the packaging to make sure it is suitable for bonding plastic and plastic parts. This two-part adhesive can be purchased at both an auto parts store and a hardware store. If you have any difficulties and you cannot find one, at the end of the article I will tell you how to make a similar analogue.
The first step is to prepare the surface of the gear. We wash it repeatedly in warm water with a detergent, actively working with a toothbrush. Our task is to degrease and remove grease from all edges.
After degreasing has been carried out, dry it dry.Now let's prepare the glue. We mix the components on a small piece of cardboard in the proportion as in the instructions. Mix well.
In general, before opening the glue, I recommend that you carefully read its instructions, especially with the time of full and partial hardening, since these data can be radically different for different manufacturers.
If the consistency is liquid, let it stand for a while until it begins to harden.In my case, a few teeth have been ground off, the situation is fixable. We smear glue on the place that needs to be restored. The glue should be very thick, but flexible.
We make such a peculiar bump.
We put the gear on a makeshift stand so that the glue thickens even more. Again, everything is individual, it took me personally about 20 minutes for the consistency to noticeably thicken.
Heating can speed up the reaction and shorten the thickening time. For example, take a hair dryer and start heating the glue on the gear.
Now the most crucial moment is the rolling of the teeth. The unit where the gear was operated, namely the other gear with which our broken one was in direct contact, must be abundantly lubricated with grease, grease or lithol.
We install the broken gear and roll it several times on another.As a result, another gear will roll the track on the thick glue.
Now you understand that before rolling the teeth, the epoxy glue on the gear must harden to the consistency of hard plasticine.
Lubrication prevents the glue from sticking to the other gear.We carefully remove the recovered make from the mechanism and leave it for final hardening, usually for a day.
In such a simple way, you can quite simply restore broken gears.
If you haven't found the glue, I can recommend you to make a slightly similar composition.
For this you will need:We buy an ordinary transparent or yellowish epoxy resin with a hardener. These two components are conceived to be sold together.
In the proportion indicated in the instructions, we hurry up the components to obtain the required amount of glue. Add cement. Only not a cement-sand mixture, but pure cement. The proportions are approximately two to one. That is, two pieces of glue and one piece of cement. And mix everything very thoroughly. The glue is ready, and then everything is as per the instructions above.
Boston (22 December 2014 - 15:08) wrote:
