DIY audio signal repair

Sound signals, as such, do not belong to the most complex elements of a car, however, traffic safety and the ability to avoid accidents depend to a large extent on their good condition. Be that as it may, even with all its simplicity of design, the sound signal (including on various modifications of the VAZ) can stop working and if such an unpleasant situation with a problem arises, most often, it is possible to cope on its own, it is enough to have an appropriate circuit at hand and follow a few simple guidelines.

In general, the circuits for connecting the audio signal on the VAZ of the "classic" series and on subsequent front-wheel drive models are quite similar and the main differences relate to the markings of the relay, as well as the location of the fuse. Among other things, on the earliest versions of the VAZ (2101, 2102, 2103 and a number of modifications 2106) in the electrical circuit of the sound signal, the presence of an unloading relay is generally not provided.

VAZ sound signal circuit without relay

1. Accumulator battery;
2. Fuse (one by two signals) located in the fuse box;
3. Horn switch in the form of a button on the steering wheel;
4. Generator.

The circuit of the sound signal VAZ (2104 - 2107, as well as 2121) with a relay

1. Accumulator battery;
2. DC generator;
3. A common fuse for two signals (located in the fuse box);
4. Control relay (usually RS-528).

Sound signal diagram for VAZ "Samara" (2108, 2109, 21099), as well as for VAZ 2113 - VAZ 2115

Sound signal scheme for VAZ 2110 - VAZ 2112, as well as all existing modifications

1.Universal sound horn;

2. Signal control key located on the steering wheel;

3. Fuse in the mounting block (again, there is no relay).

Wiring diagram of the sound signal on the VAZ "Kalina" and VAZ "Priora"

1. A mounting block with a fuse and relay (in the documentation it is sometimes otherwise called a control and comfort unit);
2. Sound signal control key;
3. Universal sound signal.

Possible reasons for the failure of the audio signal and remedies

The most common reason for the loss of a sound signal lies in the imperfection of its design and poor protection against moisture and dirt. In other words, during operation, oxidation of the contacts occurs, as well as blocking of the sound membrane (as a result of which there are no vibrations and the necessary sound effect). Such failures can often be eliminated by adding a small amount of WD-40 or its analog to the signal, but in order to achieve a guaranteed and long-term result, it is recommended, nevertheless, to disassemble the signal and the control key in order to perform a more thorough cleaning.

Among other things, on cars equipped with two signals (as a rule, they are of different tonality), if one of the elements fails, a significant attenuation of the output sound power occurs, and here it is necessary to determine the failed signal and change it. By the way, many signals are equipped with special controls, and in case of wheezing, rattling and other extraneous sounds, you can improve the sound quality by turning the adjusting screw. You can also try to rip off the "sour" membrane by rotating it.

Troubleshooting the electrical circuit

with no signal at all:

- We check the presence and condition of the "mass", as well as the supply voltage directly on the signal (it is necessary to take into account the fact that on early VAZ models the "plus" "hangs" constantly, and the control is carried out by closing the "minus"). If there is a stable plus and a minus appears when the key is closed, the signal itself is faulty and should be changed.

- We check the supply voltage in the sections of the circuit with a fuse, power relay and the mounting block as a whole;

- We evaluate the condition of the contacts and the general "mass" of the control button and eliminate all traces of oxidation.

The signal periodically disappears, and extraneous sounds are traced during sound:

- We carry out debugging using the adjusting screw.

When you turn the steering wheel, the signal starts to sound spontaneously:

- Most likely, the steering column switch is installed incorrectly (too close to the steering wheel);

- Alternatively, a ground is shorted to the steering column (via the signal control circuit).

The sound signal, also called a horn, plays an important role in ensuring safety on the road, as it makes it possible to attract the attention of other road users. The article discusses the situation when the signal does not work on the VAZ 2107: the causes of malfunctions, remedies, the possibility of its repair and replacement.

In order to understand the reasons why the horn does not work, you need to understand the VAZ 2107 signal circuit:

The scheme consists of the following components:

• sound devices;
• mounting block;
• jumper for contacts, installed in place of the relay;
• signal switch.

The sound signal is activated by a button located in the center of the steering wheel.

There is a slip ring on the steering wheel, a spring-loaded contact in the area of ​​the steering column switches. Modern signaling devices are equipped with an adjusting screw for adjusting the volume, a built-in relay (in the mounting block, the relay outputs for the sound signal are shorted with a jumper).

• there is no sound when the button is pressed;
• the sound is not muted or turned on arbitrarily;
• hoarse, quiet, or choppy sound.

Low voltage current flows in the audio device system, so the quality of the connections is important. If the contacts have a large amount of oxides and rust, then the passage of current becomes difficult. Horns require a powerful current of at least 4-5 A.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the connections and terminals, otherwise, repairs will be needed constantly. Since the car body plays the role of a minus, and oxidation settles on a plus, special attention should be paid to stripping the terminals on the red positive wire.

The minus branch of the chain is the longest, so there can often be an open in it. To determine the cause of the malfunction, you need to connect the gray-black wire from the signaling device to the body, and the positive wire directly to the battery. Then the ignition is switched on. If the sound appears, it means a break in minus value. If there is no sound, and the positive terminals are cleaned, then the device is out of order.

If the sound signal does not work on the VAZ 2107, the following malfunctions are possible:

• blown fuse;
• contacts, terminals are oxidized;
• the relay is out of order;
• the connections on the jumper are oxidized, if any;
• the petal on the steering column relay broke;
• development of a slip ring.

After diagnostics, the faults found should be eliminated (video by Alex Life).

If a fuse or relay is broken, they must be replaced with new parts. If the slip ring is worn out, the steering wheel is unlikely to be repaired, since the slip ring is difficult to find on the market. In this case, the most reasonable thing is to replace the steering wheel.

If the beep makes hoarse sounds or turns on periodically, you should check with a multimeter the battery charge and voltage supply to the terminals. If everything is in order with the power supply, the reason may be in the sound device itself. There is a screw on the horn body for adjusting the volume. It should be rotated until the wheezing stops and the sound becomes loud.

If the volume control did not help remove the wheezing, you will have to disassemble the device to clean the contacts. You can also replace the membrane. Occasionally, hoarse noises occur when the engine is started. In this case, it is necessary to check the state of the breaker contacts and the top plate. The contacts should be carefully cleaned and the plate replaced if necessary.

If the signaling device cannot be repaired, it must be replaced with another.

All modern horns can be divided into two types: pneumatic and electromagnetic (the author of the video is Russia 24).

In the first type of sound signals, the air flow moves from the compressor through a pipe, which, under the influence of vibration, begins to emit sounds. Pneumatic devices differ in tube shape and sound power. The frequency range of the audio signal covers several audio zones. Several pipes can be installed, but they require a powerful compressor.

The operation of the electromagnetic device is based on an electromagnet, which is connected to the main element of a horn of this type, a membrane. The core winding is connected to a power source (battery) using a breaker. The horn button is connected to ground. When pressed on it, the core rod begins to move, thus, an action is exerted on the membrane. The result is a powerful sound.

Electromagnetic horns differ in the design of the sound emitter:

1. Disc beeps ("pancakes"). They are manufactured in two versions: non-collapsible and collapsible. In addition, it can be closed and open.
2. Snail sound signals. They are curved and difficult to install. The open end of the socket must point forward. "Snails" make it possible to get a very loud sound.
3. Horns have a tube that looks like a straightened snail. Outwardly, they look like a horn or a pipe. It is convenient to install them under the hood, but their sound power is weak.

When choosing a sound device, you should pay attention to several nuances:

1. Before purchasing, you should evaluate the capabilities of the battery. It is important that it is charged sufficiently to power the dial tone as it consumes a lot of power.
2. Ask the seller if you need additional power or a compressor for the horn.
3. High frequencies give off a delicate sound. Low frequencies are suitable for bass lovers.
4. It must be remembered that trucks have a 24 V on-board network, and passenger cars have 12 V.
   It should be noted that the use of "crackers" and special signals is prohibited.

Self-repair is possible if the driver is well versed in electrical engineering. Motorists who do not have such skills are able to replace the fuse, relay or strip the terminals.

If the contacts did not oxidize, but burned out, then it is easier to install a new signaling device. If you know how to make a signal on a VAZ 2107, you can do the repair yourself - this will give you the opportunity to gain experience in electrical repair work and save money at the service station.

If the signal on the VAZ 2107 disappears, it should be repaired as soon as possible, since its malfunction increases the risk of an accident.

In addition, according to the rules of the road, it is prohibited to operate a car without a sound signal. Therefore, it is impossible to pass the inspection with a faulty beep.

This video demonstrates how to diagnose and repair a beep on a VAZ 2107 (video by Damir Bikmetov).

The lack of a sound signal on the car is a malfunction that affects traffic safety. The ability to timely warn or attract the attention of pedestrians, as well as other road users, directly with a horn, can help to avoid an emergency or road accident.

A malfunction such as the lack of a sound signal on cars of the VAZ family is quite easy to diagnose and repair with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the connection diagram (it is very simple) and follow the instructions to make the necessary checks.

Although the connection diagrams are slightly different, on the "classic" and front-wheel drive VAZ cars, they are very similar. The only difference is in the marking of the relay and the location of the fuse, otherwise they are completely identical.

Wiring diagram for the sound signal VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, (2106 after 1993), without relay:

1. Sound signals S-308 and S-309, (2106 - 20.3721-01);
2. Battery;
3. Fuse box (1 per signal);
4. Horn switch (steering wheel button);
5. DC generator;

The circuit of the sound signal VAZ 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2121, with a relay:

1. Sound signals S-309 and S-308;
2. Battery;
3. Generator;
4. Fuse box;
5. Horn button on the steering wheel;
6. Relay of sound signal RS - 528;

The scheme of sound signals VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115:

1. Sound signal;
2. Mounting block for fuses and relays;
3. Steering wheel button;

The scheme for switching on the sound signal VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 and their modifications:

1. Sound horn;
2. Power button on the steering wheel;
3. Fuse mounting block (no relay)

The circuit for turning on the sound signal on cars VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119, 2192, 2194 (Kalina), VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Priora):

1. Mounting block for fuses and relays (control and comfort unit);
2. Horn button on the steering wheel;
3. Sound signal;

The most common reason for the absence of a sound signal lies in the signals themselves. The reason is mechanical, moisture and oxidation lead to blocking of the sound membrane and, as a consequence, the absence of vibrations and sound effect. Sometimes it is possible to restore performance by sprinkling WD - 40 or a similar composition into the signal.

On cars, where two signals are installed, as a rule, they are of different tones, low and high. If one signal fails, the second will not be able to fully provide the required power, and therefore a replacement is required. Typically, many signals have a key to adjust the tone, and if there are wheezing, rattling, or other unwanted sound effects, you can adjust it to get the right sound. Also, with their help, you can move the "sour" membrane, thereby restoring the signal's performance.

1) check the presence of an incoming mass or voltage on the signal itself (on old systems, "plus" is constant, and the signal was controlled by "minus"). If there is a plus and an appearing minus, when you press the "horn", replace the signals themselves (the signals are non-separable, and must be replaced in case of failure);

2) Check the supply voltage (fuse, relay, mounting block);

3) Power button on the steering wheel (contacts, adjustment of switches and three-lever), presence of mass on the steering column;

- the signal wheezes or disappears:

- the sound signal appears spontaneously when turning the steering wheel:

1) Incorrect adjustment of the steering column switch (strongly "pressed" to the steering wheel);

2) A short to ground on the steering column (signal control wire);

It should be noted that on some models of "KALINA" and "PRIORA" signals are brought into the anti-theft system (signals the opening or closing of doors, plays the role of guarding the system and alarm), and some causes of signal malfunction may be associated with it.

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#1 music-1

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music-1 (11.21.2007, 19:59) wrote:

How is it so unseparable ?! Our signals are the most collapsible of all that I have ever disassembled in general. In addition, there are much more possibilities for adjustment in them, and not like in others - with one screw. True, the final tuning of the sound should be done by fixing them in their place under the hood. Since the difference, both acoustic and electrical, affects between a regular place and a vice with a battery in the garage.

And the idea of ​​removing the hemisphere is correct. You should start with her. Then it will be possible to hold the bolts from the inside.

Post has been edited Mayor: 22 November 2007 - 18:30

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music-1 (11/26/2007, 1:13) wrote:

These screws never looked like rivets to me. But without removing the casing, it is impossible to hold the nuts inside. And without this, the screws turn ess-but.

Klaxon (horn) refers to one of the safety features that every vehicle is equipped with. The device itself must be in working order to enable the car owner to send a signal to other drivers, inform about his approach and even prevent an accident. What to do in a situation when the sound signal does not work? What is the algorithm for connecting it after repair work? Let's consider these points in detail in the article.

First, let's deal with the car horn device. Its circuit includes the following elements - an anchor (1 and 15), a rod (2), adjusting (3) and locking (4) nuts, two tungsten contacts (5 and 6), as well as a core (8). In addition, the horn includes a capacitor (7), a body - 9 (it is in it that all the elements are collected), a winding (13), an activation button (located on the steering wheel) - 10, a resonance disc (11) and a membrane (12) ... The operability of the device is provided by a number of other elements - a winding (13), a relay contact (14), signals (17), a relay winding (16) and another armature (15).

After pressing the control button, the current begins to flow through the winding, due to which the core is magnetized and the armature is pulled up. Together with the latter, the rod moves, which bends the membrane. Further, thanks to the nut, the contact group is opened, and the electrical circuit is broken. After that, the elements of the horn, such as anchor, rod, disc and others, return to their original position. In this case, the contacts are closed again and current flows into the winding. Opening of contacts occurs after pressing the horn button.

How to tell if the horn is not working? To do this, you need to know the symptoms of a device malfunction. These include:

• Failure of the audio signal. In this case, the driver presses a button located on the steering wheel, but nothing happens.
• Periodic triggering. There are situations when the horn at first gives out a sound, but after a while, it disappears.

Now let's look at the reasons why the sound signal does not work on the car:

If suddenly the sound signal does not work, then this is not a reason to despair. The problems discussed above can be eliminated by hand. To solve the problem, you will need a digital or pointer multimeter, crimping pliers, pliers, as well as a sharp stationery knife.Also prepare spare wires and machine manual.

Inspection and repairs are carried out in the following sequence.

Make sure the fuse is intact and the relay is working. To do this, find the safety block and inspect it. The exact diagram can be found in the technical documentation, but most often the safety device is located in the said block or dashboard. Once the assembly is found, pay attention to the outside of the cover to help you find the correct fuse.

Use a multimeter to check if the device is working properly. With its help, it is easiest to determine why the horn does not work. Set the resistance measurement mode with "beeper" on the device (if there is such a function). If you have only an analog multimeter at hand, then before diagnosing, calibrate the tester by shorting its probes and, using the regulator, move the arrow to the zero mark.

Now touch the test leads to the fuse contacts. If the fuse insert is intact, the display will show the number "0". In the case when the multimeter shows infinity or some kind of resistance, the fuse is out of order. The solution to the problem is to install a new fusible insert.

If the fuse is OK, locate the relay box located in the engine compartment or in the passenger compartment. If you have any difficulties with the search, use the manual for the car. As a rule, the relay is located together with the fuses in the same block. The easiest way is to check the functionality of the relay by replacing the device with places with a similar part. Most often, the installed relays are interchangeable. If, after replacement, the sound signal starts to work, then you can conclude that the relay is out of order.

Checking the steering horn switch

To do this job, you will also need a tester. Lack of voltage on the button indicates a malfunction.

Relay Switch Test

To solve this problem, remove the relay and set the resistance measurement mode on the device. Connect one probe of the multimeter to the negative of the battery, and the other to the connector of the switching device. After, ask the assistant to press the horn button. If numbers appear on the display of the measuring device, then this indicates the serviceability of the circuit. In the event of the appearance of the inscription Out of Limits, it is possible to conclude that the node is broken. Now we can conclude why the sound signal does not work. The reason is the switch, and the only solution, in this case, is to replace the device.

Most often, the horn is located behind the engine radiator grill, in front of the main radiator of the cooling system. Find the mechanism and identify the positive and negative terminals. To solve the problem, use the manual for the car. Once the necessary information is received, connect the horn to the battery to test its performance.

Then connect the positive contact to "plus", and the second (negative) to "minus". After connecting the second contact, the horn should work. Otherwise, we can talk about a malfunction of the device.

Checking the continuity of the electrical circuit

Finally, diagnose the circuit. At this stage, it is worth checking the quality of the loop grounding, as well as the current and voltage parameters. Find the ground to accurately determine the ground. To check, take a tester, and set the ohms (resistance) measurement mode. Touch the minus with one probe of the device, and touch the mass with the other. Numbers should appear on the display of the multimeter, which indicates the integrity of the wiring.

If the horn does not work, be sure to check the condition of the contact groups. Practice shows that oxidation is most often the cause of breakdown. To fix the problem, it is worth cleaning up the contacts.

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