Renault Kangoo DIY suspension repair

Details: Renault Kangu do-it-yourself suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Here you can find information about the technical characteristics of the Renault Kangoo

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Everything concerning the braking system of the car

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Replacing silent blocks in a four-torsion beam is a rather entertaining procedure and requires a little patience and perseverance. In our case, the silent blocks were changed on a Renault kangoo D55 typewriter with an F8Q engine, but the replacement principle is the same for all cars with a rear suspension of this type.

1. Raise the back of the car. We remove the rear wheels, clean the wheel arches from manure and dirt.
2. Disconnect the parking brake cables and take them out of the beam.
3. & nbspDisconnect the brake pipes and turn off the brake force regulator. We muffle the brake line both on the beam and on the machine by plugging the brake pipes.

4. Remove the shock absorbers
5. Remove the beam. We unscrew two nuts on the brackets with which the beam is attached to the body. We observe safety precautions - the beam is heavy. If you have a kangoo truck converted into a passenger, make sure that there is free access to the beam mounting bolts from the passenger compartment. After rework, the bolts can be hidden under the skin.

Video (click to play).

We will not remove the stabilizing torsion bars from the beam during the repair, all further operations with the torsion bars will be performed only with the working torsion bars.

6. Pulling the beam out from under the car, mark the left and right torsion bar so as not to confuse

7. We make notches on the torsion bar, marking its position relative to the coupling and relative to the bracket. These tags will help you install new silencers.

8. Get rid of old silent blocks. With a heavy sledgehammer (3 kg.), Through a bronze or iron spacer (we used a piece of pipe with a diameter of 60 mm.) We knock down the bracket. The rubber of the silent block will absorb and cushion shocks, so it is advisable to either drill or burn it out.

After the rubber is burned out, the bracket gets off more easily, usually it flies out together with the torsion bar rotted to it.

9.Using a pipe nozzle and a sledgehammer, knock the bracket off the torsion bar. It is believed that you can separate the torsion bar and the bracket with a puller. In theory - yes, in practice, if the last time the torsion bar was removed more than a year ago - using the puller will be ineffective.

10. We pick out the remnants of the silent blocks. We knocked out the clip of the silent block from the bracket with a chisel, but you can try to drill it. The second clip, from the beam, is knocked out of the pipe of the corresponding diameter by a spacer.

There is a slightly different way to dismantle old silent blocks. Having removed the beam, carefully cut the silent block approximately in the middle - between the bracket and the beam, and only then we perform all the above actions aimed at removing the silent block. It's a little easier that way.

11. We clean the splines on the torsion bars, in the coupling and in the brackets.

We install new silent blocks. There are two ways to install. The first - the beam bracket, relative to the torsion bar, is installed according to the marks made earlier. The second way - we set the position of the bracket according to the instructions for the car.

12. We hammer in the new silent blocks using an iron spacer in the beam.

13. According to the marks made earlier, we put the torsion bar into the beam. Using the marks, up to the slot, we find the position in which the bracket should be located.We take out the torsion bar. We hammer the bracket onto the silent block - so that the silent block does not go into the beam and does not spring on the rubber, we push a horseshoe-shaped piece of reinforcement of the required diameter into the gap between the silent block and the beam.

When installing silent blocks, we observe the distance between the centers of the fastening holes of the beam closest to the silent block. For Renault kangoo with four torsion beam Y = 1164 mm.

If we put silent blocks according to the instructions, then we are guided not by marks, but we set the distance X, which for the Renault kangoo car with a four-torsion beam is 156 mm.

When installing torsion bars, a wooden blade must be hammered under the coupling (Width - 50 mm, length - 103.5 mm, height - 23 mm, the angle between the edges of the wedge is 13 o). But as practice has shown, when replacing only two working torsion bars, you can do without a wedge. It is in demand when installing all four torsion bars at the same time.

14. We drag the assembled beam under the car and attach it to the body.
15. From a threaded rod with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of half a meter, we make a device for the correct installation of torsion bars.

16. Set the distance of 402 mm on the device, install it instead of the shock absorber and drive the torsion bar into the beam. If the silent blocks were installed according to the marks, then the device may not be needed. The distance between the mounting holes of the shock absorbers, with a small error, will correspond to 402 mm.
17. Connect the brake pipes. We connect the brake force regulator.
18. Connect the parking brake cable.
19. Install shock absorbers (clamp when the car is on wheels).
20. We pump over the rear brakes.

Today you will see how the front shock absorbers and springs are replaced in Renault Kangoo 2 and MERCEDES Citan cars. All work is carried out in a specialized car service, by a professional auto mechanic with the necessary certificates. The video was filmed by order of the KYB company, it is their shock absorbers that are installed on these cars (you can choose any others). Show work from start to finish, from all sides. Used tools, heads, etc. signed. You just have to carefully look through this manual and repeat the same on your car.

Video replacement of front shock absorbers and springs in Renault Kangoo 2, MERCEDES Citan:

Backup video of replacing front shock absorbers and springs in Renault Kangoo 2, MERCEDES Citan:

By doing this work with your own hands, you save money and a large amount of time that you could leave in auto services.

Video Front suspension repair. 1 series. Renault Kengo. Renault Kangoo of LamontyTV channel

AntonM »31 Jan 2012, 01:03

vlad3947 "31 Jan 2012, 17:32

AntonM »01 Feb 2012, 00:42

vlad3947 »01 Feb 2012, 01:31

pavel the magician »01 Feb 2012, 11:19

gusevart »13 Feb 2012, 20:25

BerlingoShAM »13 Mar 2012, 22:46

DAN »14 Mar 2012, 10:24

8000 km., So she went to the TO to OD without reaching 15000 km before the revenge. Result: we are waiting for the front support bearing to arrive, the master indicated the need to replace it. I do not know the details, since I myself was not personally present at the TO.

Sunsetpeople »14 Mar 2012, 18:27

svpam 04 Apr 2012, 20:44

softline3 04 Apr 2012, 21:12

vlad_kyiv »Apr 14, 2012 11:42 am

Kango II 14 Apr 2012, 13:56

vlad3947 Apr 14, 2012 9:34 pm

vlad_kyiv Apr 15, 2012 10:09 am

She was not asking exactly about the shock absorbers.

Shl. Found several numbers:

8200573313
54020572R
Left and right are the same. Price tag around 110 $

On the stand itself there is a nut that can be unscrewed. I suggested that you can get by with the purchase of a "patron". And figs there. Although it can be repaired. If absolutely for the poor - you can change some glands, seals, etc.

reaktiv »03 May 2012, 10:51

alxzver »03 May 2012, 22:12

CTPEJIOK29 »03 May 2012, 23:36

Yes Yes. A spar on Sobol burst on this road. The mileage itself is still small - 1200 km. May 13 will be a month in operation. Until the silence!

reaktiv »04 May 2012, 12:33

Yes Yes. A spar on Sobol burst on this road. The mileage itself is still small - 1200 km. May 13 will be a month in operation. Until the silence!

Pasha »04 May 2012, 18:19

pavel the magician »30 June 2012, 19:05

Pasha »30 June 2012, 19:53

pavel the magician »01 Jul 2012, 16:16

Pasha »01 Jul 2012, 17:07

svpam »04 Jul 2012, 17:47

AntonM »08 Oct 2012, 21:57

vlad3947 »08 Oct 2012, 23:23

Orehovo-zuevo "08 Jan 2014, 14:48

oboldui »08 Jan 2014, 15:55

Orehovo-zuevo »08 Jan 2014, 17:09

gusevart »08 Jan 2014, 23:18

mityaby "10 Jan 2014, 16:13

alxzver »10 Jan 2014, 17:23

How much more ?! Not a jeep! In winter, all these sedans and hatchbacks are clearing the way for us, kangovodam, with their belly!

Aquarius »10 Jan 2014, 21:42

mityaby »11 Jan 2014, 10:23

dixi`s »11 Jan 2014, 13:56

Do not confuse clearance min. distance from the ground to the lowest point (usually measured in the center of the car from the front when viewed)
and clearance from the body to the ground along the thresholds

so, due to tire deformation and sagging on the springs, yes, it will decrease

but it is treated either with spacers a la Danzhel on the Peugeot-Citroen (which is not good, in fact a body lift) or by pushing rubber 205 / 70-15 (From ShNiva, Suzuki Jimny, etc. - there are such sizes)

But the meaning? I somehow caught fire here (I could take a new rubber of this size for 1 tr.) - but cooled down. Anyway, this is not a full-fledged 4x4 will be released. And without all-wheel drive but with high ground clearance, this is pornography: Any deviator (sideways, uphill) and after a rain, that's all. Yes, and uphill, without rain - traction is catastrophically lacking (barely overcame my favorite climb on Utrish). Do not leave the track, etc. etc.

Bottom line: If you don't want to wed ... don't torment the priest It's easier to buy a full-fledged 4x4, if there is a need.

gusevart »11 Jan 2014, 18:10

mityaby »12 Jan 2014, 00:04

dixi`s »12 Jan 2014, 00:28

That's right.It is necessary to correlate Wishlist-possibilities
And all "improvements" are a waste of money, as a rule. Although I used to be very good. I did a lot with the car myself - I ordered parts from factories, designed, rummaged looking for information, etc. etc. But now I think differently. The investment of time, effort, money will never pay off. And in the end you get what you can buy anyway.
The exception is sports.

megapiksel »24 Sep 2014, 17:36

Andrey1 »24 Sep 2014, 20:29

megapiksel »25 Sep 2014, 12:58

Serj 44 »25 Sep 2014, 15:53

megapiksel »29 Sep 2014, 14:24

current, past and future

Message hsg »07 Apr 2016, 13:29

Sent automatically from my Tilipone using Taracan

I did not understand your question, but I will answer you.

Message hsg »20 Mar 2018, 22:28

Renault Kangoo 2004 car repair, reverse gear shift cable

Sent automatically from my Tilipone using TaracanI did not understand your question, but I will answer you.The French heel Kangoo, built on the basis of Simbol, first saw the light of day in 1997 and was so liked by commercial structures for its practicality that in 2008 the second generation continued its baton. There is even a modification with a 4x4 wheel arrangement, which has some off-road inclinations.Individual owners liked Reno Kanggu for good visibility and maneuverability, as well as trouble-free operation. The fact is that the design of the car is as simple as possible, allowing for repairs, as they say, "on the knee", in principle there is nothing to break. Moreover, there are absolutely no problems with spare parts and repairs, but MOT is quite expensive.When buying a used Renault Kangoo, you should pay attention to its belonging to a legal entity, it is better not to mess with such people, all the juices have already been squeezed out of them. They are usually spartan in equipment and have a low level of security, like all other Kangoo. It is also worth knowing that this is a purely city car, so it has no cross-country ability, even for a 4x4.The transformable interior pleases with spaciousness and comfort, but the cheap plastic is very hard, and the seats are too soft and uncomfortable, the back gets tired quickly on a long trip. In addition, it is very inconvenient to adjust the tilt of the seat back, the gap between the seat and the door is too narrow. The double stove regulator is also an inconvenience, and the risks of the speedometer are too large, and even the unusual digitization by odd numbers. Not everyone will like the scanty levers under the steering wheel.Both gasoline and diesel engine modifications were installed on the Renault Kangoo.Of the gasoline, the most common are 1.1 l, 1.2 l and 1.6 l (84 hp). All of them, unfortunately, cannot boast of power characteristics, and 1.6 liters are also noisy, especially at high revs. If you still have to choose from gasoline, then 1.6 liters is better, compared to the others, it is more high-torque and quite economical, the consumption does not exceed 11 liters in the city and 7 liters on the highway per 100 km of run. It is better not to mess with 1.1 l and 1.2 l.Among the diesel versions, 1.5TD (80 hp) is distinguished by soft work and economy, the consumption is 5 l / 6 l / 100 km on the highway and in the city, respectively. However, the presence of a turbine does not make Renault Kanggu powerful at all.The atmospheric 1.5D can generally become a headache for you due to problematic operation and repairs. Therefore, if there is a desire to purchase a diesel Renault Kengu, then there is nothing better than 1.9D, a reliable and problem-free engine. Scheduled maintenance for all engines is provided every 10 thousand kilometers.The electrical equipment of Kangoo, unfortunately, cannot be called problem-free, everything is buggy, from an incomprehensible change of radio stations in the radio to an immobilizer with power windows. Perhaps the reason for this is the tourniquet passing along the floor of the cabin, or maybe the mentality of all the French.To the disadvantages of the Renault Kanggu car, you can safely add an unreliable central locking and short-lived paddle shifters.The transmission is also not perfect, there are comments on it. The clutch picks up at the very top of the pedal travel, and the Renault Kangoo manual gearbox flows with oil from all cracks.It is generally better not to mess with an automatic four-speed gearbox, there are a lot of problems. The all-wheel drive transmission, although it is considered non-repairable, if desired, you can find specialists for converting the cardan into a repairable one. Cardan crosspieces are usually enough for 70 thousand km of run.There is only one complaint about the steering - the steering wheel is located too close to the hum of the instruments and, moreover, is not adjustable for reach. Steering tips change after 80 thousand km, short-lived steering shaft crosses require constant monitoring.The brakes themselves are quite effective, but no feedback is felt and the handbrake grip is not very comfortable.The suspension is very soft and comfortable, the most durable in it are the bearings of the rear torsion beam, which can withstand up to 150 thousand kilometers. Least of all, in the region of 70 thousand km, the bushings of the front stabilizer are nursed, and the ball joints of the front levers - 80 thousand km. The service life of the shock absorbers reaches up to 100 thousand km, and the silent blocks of the front levers change after 120 thousand kilometers. There are no problem areas in the Kangoo chassis, with the exception of the wheel bearings.The body is not happy, the only advantage is a large trunk, but the floor and sidewalls are finished with an impractical fleecy cloth, which has to be washed from dirt for a long time. The corrosion resistance of Reno Kengu is low, therefore, after purchase, anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and all hidden cavities is strongly recommended. You will also have to follow the door fittings, which are not durable. In general, the car is "for an amateur", the choice is yours.Video Front suspension repair. 1 series. Renault Kengo. Renault Kangoo of LamontyTV channelHere is a photo report about repair of the rear beam Renault Kangoo to the service station "Orbita" St. Petersburg.Two types of bolts were installed on the Renault Kangoo car, with two torsion bars (reinforced) and four torsion bars. The design of the beams is reliable, but due to long-term operation or overloads it can fail. Signs of a malfunction are a knock and creak of the rear beam if the car does not hold the road well, as well as a decrease in ground clearance (the rear wheels go into the arch).In our case, the rear suspension of Renault Kangu sagged, and upon further diagnostics it turned out that the torsion bar had burst. Rear beam repair, the work is specific and voluminous, and not every car service will undertake it. Service station "Orbita" is a specialized service for the repair of the rear beam of Renault Kangu.The work includes replacing torsion bars and rear beam bushings. The difficulty lies in the fact that over time, all connections sour and do not unscrew. Preheated by a burner, the torsion bars are knocked out of the splined joints. The silent blocks are burned out and squeezed out on the press (official dealers do not carry out this work).Renault Kangoo books and manuals for free Repair and maintenance manual Renault Kangoo - Renault Kangoo repair in photos
- the components and assemblies of the car are described in detail
- do-it-yourself repair of typical Renault Kangoo malfunctions
- colored wiring diagrams Renault Kangoo user manual and service manual - operation manual
- service manual Renault Kangoo
- trouble-shooting
- interactive wiring diagram Renault Kangoo Wiring Diagram - pinout of electrical connectors Renault Kangoo
- features of electrical equipment
- elimination of malfunctions of electrical equipment
- detailed electrical diagram Catalog of parts and assembly units Renault Kangoo - table of interchangeability of Renault Kangoo car parts
- intended for service station workers and car owners
- parts catalog Renault Kangoo engine repair manual - full technical specifications of the Renault Kangoo engine
- design features and engine repair
- DIY Renault Kangoo engine troubleshooting
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the engine with photographs Renault Kangoo gearbox repair manual - full technical characteristics of the checkpoint
- design and repair features of the checkpoint
- elimination of faults in the gearbox and transmission of the Renault Kangoo car
- a detailed description of the processes of disassembly, troubleshooting and assembly of the Renault Kangoo gearbox with photographs Renault Kangoo Injector Error Codes - description and diagram of the injector
- decoding of engine fault codes
- elimination of injector malfunctions
- pinout of injection and wiring- tuning Renault Kangoo with your own hands
- engine tuning, body tuning, suspension tuning
- multimedia tuning guideBraking system in Renault kangoo simple but effective enough. Unlike other Renault cars, in this model the braking effect is achieved by friction of the brake pads with friction linings against the inner part of the drum. This principle, along with its disadvantages, has its own advantages - ease of maintenance and cost of spare parts. To dismantle the old pads, place the car on a level surface in a place protected from wind and rain, support the free wheels with “shoes” and jack up the side of the car where you plan to change the pads.First, loosen the bolts securing the wheel to the drum without unscrewing them.We lift the car, unscrew the bolts, remove the wheel from the drum. Under the boot there is a powerful nut that fixes the drum on the axle. It is unscrewed with a "head" key by turning it counterclockwise. To remove the drum, a puller is used, the bolt of which rests against the wheel axle, the rotation of which "squeezes" the axle out of the drum. Brake pads on the Kangoo pulled together by two springs, which must be removed using a hook and pliers. You should also remove the support springs - "cheeks". After these procedures, you can remove the pads and dismantle the parking brake cable drive and the adjusting bolt from them. We inspect the drum for wear and tear.In the event of a large output, the drum must be replaced, and deep scratches are repaired with a boring. Brake pads for the Renault Kangoo car can be bought at the car market or in a car dealership. They are completed in different ways: if there is nothing in the kit except for the pads, complete it with the parts removed during dismantling. The pads themselves are not the same - there is a left and a right. Installation of new pads begins with replacing the adjusting bolt and attaching the parking brake cable.In principle, the assembly must be done in the reverse order, but it is worth paying your attention to a few points: putting on the springs that tighten the pads can pretty much fray your nerves if you do not have a powerful hook and round-nose pliers or pliers with long but thin "lips" ". Having strengthened the spring on one side, grab it with the pliers and use the hook to put the second spring loop into place. After the installation of the pads is completed, push the pads with the adjusting bolt just enough so that they lightly catch the drum when rotating, and then unscrew the bolt a few turns back. This way you will ensure maximum braking performance.Replacement of pads in Renault Kangoo should be carried out on all wheels at the same time, otherwise ineffective operation of the brakes and skidding at the time of braking is possible.Front suspension repair. 1 series. Renault Kengo Renault Kangoo Group VKONTAKTE LamontyTV :.Glow plugs. Checking and replacing. Renault kangoo. auto repair DIY auto repair. #reklamamobil Channel.Repair of a steering rack on Renault Kangoo. Repair of a steering rack for Renault in St. Petersburg. Our service centers are over 3 years old.Repair Renault Kangoo 2 part disassembly (Renault Kangoo) the car has been under repair for 2 weeks already, so I will be laying out a little bit.Correct adjustment of valves on motors 1.4-1.6 8V (K7M, K7J) A lot of interesting things for youRepair of a steering rack on Renault. Repair of a steering rack for Renault in St. Petersburg. Our company provides services for.Renault Kangoo 2006 onwards replacement and installation of additional clips in the wheel arch liners. DIY Russian style. Do it yourself in Russian.Repair of RENAULT KENGO 12 part We put door cards, repair of the inner door handle and what has changed after replacement.A video tutorial from the Renault Repair team how to change the front hub bearing (front wheel hub) to.An excellent option for reasonable money, a car that will not let you down, maintainable, passable, economical.Renault Kangoo, DIY Repair, Fault Checklist.Renault Kangoo DIY rear lamp repair, Renault Kangoo fixed and re-uploadedTurbine repair at Renault. Turbine repair at Renault in St. Petersburg This is a specialized turbine repair service.Reno Kengo repair We repair the rear shock absorber with the help of a sledgehammer and such and such a mother. Tell the people.Reno Kengo repair. We change the steering tip and ball joint VKONTAKTE LamontyTV Group:.The French heel Kangoo, built on the basis of Simbol, first saw the light of day in 1997 and was so liked by commercial structures for its practicality that in 2008 the second generation continued its baton. There is even a modification with a 4x4 wheel arrangement, which has some off-road inclinations.Individual owners liked Reno Kanggu for good visibility and maneuverability, as well as trouble-free operation. The fact is that the design of the car is as simple as possible, allowing for repairs, as they say, "on the knee", in principle there is nothing to break. Moreover, there are absolutely no problems with spare parts and repairs, but MOT is quite expensive.When buying a used Renault Kangoo, you should pay attention to its belonging to a legal entity, it is better not to mess with such people, all the juices have already been squeezed out of them. They are usually spartan in equipment and have a low level of security, like all other Kangoo. It is also worth knowing that this is a purely city car, so it has no cross-country ability, even for a 4x4.The transformable interior pleases with spaciousness and comfort, but the cheap plastic is very hard, and the seats are too soft and uncomfortable, the back gets tired quickly on a long trip. In addition, it is very inconvenient to adjust the tilt of the seat back, the gap between the seat and the door is too narrow. The double stove regulator is also an inconvenience, and the risks of the speedometer are too large, and even the unusual digitization by odd numbers. Not everyone will like the scanty levers under the steering wheel.Both gasoline and diesel engine modifications were installed on the Renault Kangoo.Of the gasoline, the most common are 1.1 l, 1.2 l and 1.6 l (84 hp). All of them, unfortunately, cannot boast of power characteristics, and 1.6 liters are also noisy, especially at high revs. If you still have to choose from gasoline, then 1.6 liters is better, compared to the others, it is more high-torque and quite economical, the consumption does not exceed 11 liters in the city and 7 liters on the highway per 100 km of run. It is better not to mess with 1.1 l and 1.2 l.Among the diesel versions, 1.5TD (80 hp) is distinguished by soft work and economy, the consumption is 5 l / 6 l / 100 km on the highway and in the city, respectively. However, the presence of a turbine does not make Renault Kanggu powerful at all.The atmospheric 1.5D can generally become a headache for you due to problematic operation and repairs. Therefore, if there is a desire to purchase a diesel Renault Kengu, then there is nothing better than 1.9D, a reliable and problem-free engine. Scheduled maintenance for all engines is provided every 10 thousand kilometers.The electrical equipment of Kangoo, unfortunately, cannot be called problem-free, everything is buggy, from an incomprehensible change of radio stations in the radio to an immobilizer with power windows. Perhaps the reason for this is the tourniquet passing along the floor of the cabin, or maybe the mentality of all the French.To the disadvantages of the Renault Kanggu car, you can safely add an unreliable central locking and short-lived paddle shifters.The transmission is also not perfect, there are comments on it. The clutch picks up at the very top of the pedal travel, and the Renault Kangoo manual gearbox flows with oil from all cracks.It is generally better not to mess with an automatic four-speed gearbox, there are a lot of problems. The all-wheel drive transmission, although it is considered non-repairable, if desired, you can find specialists for converting the cardan into a repairable one. Cardan crosspieces are usually enough for 70 thousand km of run.There is only one complaint about the steering - the steering wheel is located too close to the hum of the instruments and, moreover, is not adjustable for reach. Steering tips change after 80 thousand km, short-lived steering shaft crosses require constant monitoring.The brakes themselves are quite effective, but no feedback is felt and the handbrake grip is not very comfortable.The suspension is very soft and comfortable, the most durable in it are the bearings of the rear torsion beam, which can withstand up to 150 thousand kilometers. Least of all, in the region of 70 thousand km, the bushings of the front stabilizer are nursed, and the ball joints of the front levers - 80 thousand km. The service life of the shock absorbers reaches up to 100 thousand km, and the silent blocks of the front levers change after 120 thousand kilometers. There are no problem areas in the Kangoo chassis, with the exception of the wheel bearings.The body is not happy, the only advantage is a large trunk, but the floor and sidewalls are finished with an impractical fleecy cloth, which has to be washed from dirt for a long time. The corrosion resistance of Reno Kengu is low, therefore, after purchase, anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and all hidden cavities is strongly recommended. You will also have to follow the door fittings, which are not durable. In general, the car is "for an amateur", the choice is yours.Replacing the stabilizer struts and bushings The Renault Kango stabilizer bar is an important link between the stabilizer itself and the steering knuckle, or hub. This part in Renault Kangoo is necessary to restrict the mobility of some other important parts of the car, which is extremely necessary when Renault enters corners. At this moment of movement, different forces begin to simultaneously affect the car, which sharply increases the overall load on the car's suspension.The stabilizer bar Renault Kangoo is designed specifically to extinguish this negative phenomenon and, of course, begins to wear out under increased load. The part itself looks like a metal rod, at the ends of which there are bushings directed in opposite directions.Another important suspension detail is the Renault Kango stabilizer bush. Such a sleeve can be presented in one of two options: spherical or rubber. The importance of the integrity of the bushings of the Renault Kango stabilizer is very high, since they directly affect the durability of the stabilizer struts and reduce the overall noise level.How to independently determine the malfunction of the Renault Kangoo stabilizer struts? There are several signs that can help you determine when the stabilizer struts need to be replaced as soon as possible.There are two options for diagnosing this chassis unit:

Visual;

Mechanical.

If it is visually noticeable that the Renault Kango stabilizer bushing has cracks, breaks, other traces of mechanical damage, they should be replaced to avoid problems.The mechanical version of the diagnosis consists in the following actions:

Turn the wheel of the Renault Kangoo strongly to the side.

Grab the rack with your hands and try to shake it in different directions.

The play or creak of the Renault Kango stabilizer cannot be visually determined, therefore, the mechanical method requires the use of force. If the last step described is easy, then the strut hinges are likely to be damaged. Signs for replacing bushings and stabilizer struts Renault Kangoo:

An extraneous sound appears when the vehicle overcomes any obstacles. For example, a speed bump.

During normal movement, an arbitrary displacement of Renault to one side can be observed.

During cornering on the Renault Kangoo, excessive roll appears in the direction opposite to the direction of travel.

During the process of braking or cornering, excessive swaying of the Renault Kango body is observed.

In all these situations, it is recommended to immediately start replacing parts of this unit with new ones.Repair of Renault Kangoo stabilizer in garage conditions is as follows:

The vehicle is driven into the pit, put on the handbrake. The wheels are additionally blocked by shoes or other means.

The fastening nut is unscrewed. If this stage is difficult, then it is recommended to first use WD-40. When unscrewing the nut, it is necessary to fix the Renault half shaft with a hexagon so that it does not rotate during this process.

To dismantle the washer and stem nut, you will need to use a 27 key. But before that, you need to raise the Renault part to be repaired using a car jack.

To get to the main fasteners of the Renault Kango strut, you will need to move the caliper to the side. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the upper fastening bolt, and loosen the lower one a little.

After removing the mounting bolts, you can easily reach the rack, which requires replacement.

Before installing a new Renault Kango stabilizer, it is recommended to also change the bushings, since it is after removing the racks that a similar procedure can be performed.Technology, how to replace the bushings of the stabilizer Renault Kangoo:

Leave Renault raised.

Unscrew the subframe fixing bolt.

Remove the jack, which will lower the vehicle while lifting the subframe.

The fastening clamp is dismantled, then the bushing itself.

After removing the mounting bolts, you can easily reach the rack, which requires replacement.

When installing a new bushing in Renault Kango, it is important to ensure that the special cut on it was on the opposite side from you. The assembly of this unit takes place in the reverse order described by the technology.Some car enthusiasts note that the nuts are often unscrewed during the operation of Renault Kangoo. To avoid this situation, it is recommended to additionally lubricate this version of the fastener with ordinary automotive grease, which will allow to neutralize the negative effects of vibration.On the territory of the Russian Federation (delivery is available in Moscow), the publishing house's products can be purchased in the online store of the largest book-selling company "Avtoinform96" Height of control points of the lower part of the body Renault kangooDimension R1 is measured between the floor and the front wheel axis of rotation.The R2 dimension is measured between the floor and the rear wheel pivot.Dimension (W1) is measured between the floor and the bottom surface of the front subframe on a single sheet between two silent blocks.Dimension (W2) is measured between the floor and the axle of the silent block on the bracket.Wheel alignment (front wheels)For wheel alignment Renault kangoo, to check them, it is necessary to adjust the body height to the dimensions (W1) and (W2).