In detail: Renault lagoon do-it-yourself generator repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
To remove the relay regulator on Renault Laguna with F3R and F3P engines, there is no need to remove the generator itself.
Disconnect the wires (items 1 and 2). Unscrew the generator cover (three nuts - pos. 3).
Remove the generator brush guard (pos. 4).
Remove the screw that secures the relay generator.
Remove the relay generator. Attention! Due to wear, grooves are formed on each ring. Remove the relay generator carefully, as you can break off the brushes.
The height of the generator brushes must be 5 mm or more.
relay-regulator, brush holder and brushes are made in one block. The manufacturer has installed a replacement for this entire block.
The place where the wires of the brushes are soldered are filled with sealant. If you remove it, then it will be possible to evaporate the brushes to be replaced. At the same time, the brushes must be held, since they are spring-loaded and the spring can fly out.
For replacement, you can use brushes from "Zhiguli". In this case, they will have to be modified with a file.
Solder new brushes and assemble the generator in reverse order.
This article is not a direct guide to generator repair. The author is not responsible for the possible consequences of self-repair.
the reason for the removal was the charging at high speeds disappeared. and soon disappeared altogether.
we throw off the wires from the battery, remove the upper engine protection, fuel filter, and plastic crap. plus wires from the generator.
We remove the wheel and protection in the engine (marked with a star)
We squeeze the belt tension roller and throw off the belt
remove the parasitic roller of the alternator belt key 13
We unscrew the two bolts of the generator, the key for 13 and everything is almost ready, a little torment to get it + the great Russian and the gene in the hands
Video (click to play).
everything was decided when replacing the anchor (assembly in reverse order)
And why the wheel and the engine protection? Filmed from above did not interfere. Take it out, yes - you need to turn it and twist it. The hardest thing is to put it - it is very difficult to set it up without skewing and hammer it into place.
The sequence of actions is already clear. What happened to the investments?
Respond, did anyone do it yourself? Bearing numbers are required.
After storming the forest puddle, the generator hummed. I remove the attachment belt - quietly. the shaft rotates noisily. Generator 7700427932, complete set - without air conditioner. Disassembling seems to be nothing complicated, only a washer is pressed onto the shaft, against which the pulley is pressed, how to press it out, until I figured it out. the dimensions of the bearings are, the small one says 6003 LHA
Unfortunately, I won't tell you anything about the rubber bands, although I disassembled and assembled the pump, it turned out to be in perfect order. For some stupid request like "Reno power steering pump repair" in Yandex I found information that helped, and there it was just a question of replacing the pump gaskets. At work, I'll joke a reference. The main wish is not to break the nozzle when removing the pump (far bolt), as I did
Stop, we are talking about the sensor))) As I understand it, it is somewhere else.
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Hello everyone. I had a problem with the generator - died. I have a Laguna 2004, Diesel 1.9 engine F9Q. Mileage 230 thousand At first I did not remove the generator, I removed it (I can describe it to someone useful ..) -remove the clamp (minus or plus battery) - removed the protective plastic cover (you need to unscrew 1 screw with a Phillips screwdriver, and Nuts, one for 13 holds a thick + wire (Red), and the other for 14 is just such a flat cover. - then you can remove the block where the brushes are (this is a block with a regulator voltage) hold it with a pair of screws (Phillips screwdriver). I have this Block "Bosch". The brushes turned out to be: One about 7-8mm, the other about 11-12mm. New brushes length 16mm.
In general, I changed one brush (which was short), and left the other one, as I suspect that it’s not about the brushes. They were not that short. Remaining min. 5 mm.
To change the brush, you need to cut the plastic protruding element from the back of the brushes, and inside there is an aluminum contact on which the brush tail is welded and the contact is sealed with plastic.
In general, I put everything back - BUT he Gad (generator) did not work. I measured the current with a tester - the generator does NOT charge at all!
Added after 8 minutes 4 seconds In general, it turned out that the voltage regulator (block with brushes) was dead.
At first I thought that the matter was not in the regulator - as I had read on the forums that if he was screwed, then the generator would charge - but when the speed changed - the regulator did not regulate the current - the current “jumps”.
There is a semicircular block outside the generator - it contains Diodes(as far as I understand) HOW TO CHECK THEM ? - I figured it out - I answer myself - I disassembled the generator - I removed the diode bridge. The diodes rang out with the tester - they must pass current in one direction, then we swap + and - the tester's conclusions, the current should not pass in the other direction. In general Diodes are OK.
If I take off, I will try to look at the copper rings, while I see from the outside that there is a production, but I do not know whether it is fatal or not. Disassembled - Working out on rings (approximately) on one 0.5-1 mm, on the other 1-1.5 maybe 2 mm. This is how the rings look.
just in case I changed the rings, they are not expensive ..
A water-cooled generator is used to heat the windshield with heating elements when the engine is cold in winter.
When the generator fails (in my case the diode bridge burned out, the reason - the heat-conducting paste dried out between the bridge and the generator case, the bridge overheated when the heated windshield is turned on) the voltage in the on-board network decreases. The stove engine speed regulator (in cars with climate control) begins to behave unpredictably. Hand brake malfunctions, oil, etc. are thrown out.
Checking a diode bridge connected to the stator windings (in a complete circuit) is greatly simplified if you know that the resistance of the stator windings is very small (Ohm fractions). Scheme A equivalent to the circuit B... Well, the diagram B equivalent to the circuit C... As a result, the entire bridge is checked as if it had only 2 diodes connected in series. In the forward direction, when the diode is ringing, the tester shows a voltage drop of 0.4. 0.55 V. In the opposite direction, the diodes should not ring at all (> 1 MΩ).
Attention: such a simplification is permissible only when the diode bridge connected to the stator of the generator is ringing.
If, as a result of the check, it turned out that (both) diodes are in good working order, it means that the entire bridge is in good working order.
Genuine generator parts are very expensive, over € 100 for a voltage regulator and around $ 80 for a diode bridge. This turned out to be enough to abandon the idea of looking for original parts.
When using an analog, I connected the diode bridge in the following way:
I bought a new Chinese-made bridge for $ 30. It differs somewhat from the original in its internal circuit, but this does not affect the operation of the generator in any way.
When replacing a diode bridge - be sure to remove the old thermal grease, Before installation apply fresh thermal paste, for example KTP-8.It is also important to solder well the connection points of the winding leads with the leads of the diode bridge.
Out of simple curiosity, I opened the original regulator (faulty),
- resistor R resistance 100 ohm (you can use a 12 V light bulb with a power up to 1 W);
- bulb L 12V power from 0.25 up to 60 W (but not more power supply);
– BP - a power supply unit with an adjustable output voltage in the range of 12.15 V.
From a power supply unit with an adjustable output voltage, we supply 12 V power to the circuit (lamp L should light up smoothly within 10 seconds)
smoothly increase the output voltage of the power supply unit to 14.55 V (at a voltage of more than 14.55 V, the lamp L should go out)
gradually reduce the voltage below 14.55 V (lamp L should light up again).
Justification of the power of the lamp L: the resistance of the excitation winding in this generator is 2 Ohm, the maximum excitation current is 14.55 V / 2 Ohm = 7.275 A; power is 14.55 x 7.275 = 105.85 W. In my opinion, you should not use a lamp more powerful than 60 watts.
To check signals FR, DF, DFM it is necessary to supplement the circuit with two elements: a 2400 Ohm resistor and an LED. The LED should light up and go out simultaneously with the L lamp, when checking the regulator according to the above described method.
I recommend this circuit to those who are often forced to check the serviceability of voltage regulators (for example, auto electricians).
R1 - resistor with resistance 51.100 Ohm
R2 - 120 ohm resistor
R3 - resistor with resistance 2 400 - 3 300 Ohm
R4 is a 510.1000 ohm resistor (R4 = 10 x R1)
R5 - resistor with a resistance of 2 700 Ohm
C1 - capacitor with a capacity of 100 - 470 μF
T1 - n-p-n transistor with a maximum collector current of at least 500 mA
This circuit allows you to quickly check voltage regulators. The voltmeter displays the voltage to stabilize the circuit. This voltage must correspond to the value specified in the documentation for the regulator (usually it is 14.4. 14.6 V).
The values of the resistors R2 and R5 differ from those indicated in the previous diagrams due to the fact that the supply voltage of this circuit should be 17.20 V.
The LED serves to check the FR, DF, DFM signal (if your regulator has one). In order for it to shine brightly, the resistance R4 should be reduced by 2.5 times (the regulator circuit will perceive this as an increase in the load on the generator), while the voltage on the voltmeter should remain unchanged.
Specifically, 9RC7133 has the following parameters:
regulation voltage 14.55 V;
temperature compensation -10 mV / ° C;
type of soft load switching LRC;
turn-on delay time 10s;
presence of DF output (generator overload signal to disconnect heating elements)
the “lack of battery charge” light goes out at a frequency> 180 Hz of the voltage applied to the terminals Ps1, Ps2
I bought a voltage regulator M516 (analogue 9RC7108) for $ 33.3 from the manufacturer TRANSPO.
After replacing the regulator and assembly, the generator began to show signs of life. The generator is connected to a 12V battery at the L input through the lamp, I supply +12 V, while the excitation coil emits a quiet sound, a screwdriver starts magnetising to the shaft with the pulley. I brought the generator to the service to install the generator on the car.
After installing the generator on the car, it turned out that the voltage regulator does not contain a soft start circuit and there is no DF output. When trying to start the engine, smoothly accelerating, it stinks for 5-6 seconds, after which it grabs and starts. Disconnect the L / DF connector, the car starts from half a turn. So I drove for about a year. Auto parts sellers told me so many things like this can't be.
The reason for this behavior is apparently that the starter spins the engine from the battery, and the generator at this time tries to charge the battery, thereby reducing the voltage in the on-board network (increasing the load on the battery). For some reason, it didn't work out to get free energy ;-)))
I found the new MOBILETRON VR-V3666 voltage regulator myself. I had to pretty much look for the parameters of many analogs. It cost me about $ 30. Replaced without removing the generator.He took off the front end, the right headlight and, sitting on the ground in the Z position, took off the TRANSPO M516 and put the MOBILETRON VR-V3666. I have been using a car for more than 2 years now, I boldly turn on the heating of the windshield in winter. No complaints.
I have not tested this regulator, but judging by the description, it is a complete analogue of the 9RC7133 voltage regulator
Checking the serviceability of the voltage generator as a whole can be performed on a test bench according to the indicated scheme (the generator is driven by the bench drive). The voltage at the battery terminals should increase to 14.5. 14.55 V. When the load is connected, a decrease in voltage is possible (depends on the magnitude of the load on the generator and the rotor speed).
We managed to unearth the documentation (excerpts fromdatasheet 9RC7133) for this voltage regulator only in the manufacturer's language. From it, it was possible to find out that the L pin is both an input and an output and is connected to the + 12V circuit through a light bulb with a power of no more than 1 W (!).
In this generator model you cannot simply jumper + 12V to input L regulator, thus you can burn the voltage regulator 9RC7133 (made by MOTOROLA) worth more than € 100(!)... Notice the LAMP output in the manufacturer's block diagram.
During the search, a lot of information was checked, some of which I bring to your attention.
Urgent Renault generator repair with a guarantee! At Exin service centers you can repair Renault generator absolutely for any model - Clio, Duster, Espace, Fluence, Kangoo, Kaptur, Koleos, Laguna, Logan, Megan, Sandero, etc. Thanks to the experience of our craftsmen and professional equipment, the repair time will take 1-2 hours - which means that you will be able to pick up the finished generator on the same day. Before removing the generator from the car, our technicians will carry out diagnostics to make sure that this particular part is faulty. Renault generator diagnostics carried out free of charge. If there are any problems in the operation of the generator, it is removed from the machine and checked again in more detail at a special stand, after which the price of the repair is negotiated. You can execute DIY Renault generator repair, which we do not recommend, because in case of an error you will have to change the whole part, and it will be much more expensive .. If you decide to take this step, we recommend that you read the instructions - do it yourself repair a car generator.
- wear of the generator brushes (the battery icon on the panel lights up)
- a failed relay regulator (the battery icon on the panel lights up)
- wear of slip rings (the battery icon on the panel lights up)
- whistling noise in the generator (usually after 100,000 km)
Collection of Wiring Diagrams Renault Laguna 2000 model year original manual, Technical Note 8157A (Renault sas 77 11 293 940 Russian edition 1999) with petrol engines: K4M 1.6 l (1598 cc) 107 hp / 79 kW, F3P 1.8 l (1794 / 1783 cc) 90-95 hp / 66-70 kW, N7Q 2.0 l (1948 cc) 140 hp / 103 kW, F3R 2.0 l (1998 cc) 114 hp / 84 kW, L7X 3.0 l (2946 cc) 190 hp / 140 kW, Z7X 3.0 l (2963 cc) 167 hp / 123 kW and diesel F9Q 1.9 l (1870 cc) 98-107 hp / 72-79 kW, G8T 2.2 l (2188 cm³) 83-113 hp / 61-83 kW; fuses, relays, generator, starter, lamps, diagnostics, design features, pinout, location of wiring harnesses and connectors (chips). Electrical Wiring Diagrams Renault Laguna with all-metal monocoque bodies five-door hatchback and station wagon first-generation front-wheel drive models produced from 1993 to 2000
