Renault Logan DIY brake caliper repair

Renault Logan brake caliper is a special mechanism that guarantees the creation of sufficient force on the pads to slow down or stop the car completely. What are the features of this device? What are the signs to recognize a malfunction? How do you repair a Renault Logan caliper with your own hands? These and other points will be given attention in the article.

Pressing the brake pedal increases the pressure in the Renault brake system, which acts on the caliper pistons. Initially, the pads are parallel to the wheel rim and do not touch it. But when the pedal is triggered, the pads are compressed and the machine stops due to the frictional force. At the same time, the elements of the brake system heat up - the disc, as well as the pads with calipers.

To increase the resource of the unit and the efficiency of the Logan's braking system, it is important to select the calipers wisely. The latter must meet the following requirements:

• Heat resistance.
• Strength.
• High heat transfer parameter.

"Practice has shown that reliable calipers do not deform even with strong heating and subsequent cooling."

How to recognize a device malfunction, and when to repair it? Breakage of the Renault Logan caliper give out as follows:

• The car is pulled left or right when the brake is applied.
• To stop the car, you have to apply more effort.
• There is a "sticking" of the pads when driving.
• The pedal is “soft”. A small amount of force is required to apply the brake.
• The brakes remain applied.
• Excessive resistance appears when you press the pedal.

These signs often indicate the need to repair the unit. But for this you need to know how to remove the Renault Logan caliper, and what advice to follow when servicing it with your own hands.

If you decide not to contact specialists and do all the work yourself, study the design of the brake system and the recommendations for repairing Logan (described below).

• Prepare your instrument. To do the work with your own hands, you must have an extension cord, a socket-type head for "eighteen", a flat-head screwdriver, a key for "thirteen", a pipe (to create sufficient leverage).

"If the Renault caliper requires overhaul due to seizing or leaking, drain the brake fluid."

• Remove the wheel bolts while the machine is on the ground. Next, lift the car with a jack and unscrew the mounting bolts completely.
• Apply the brake and lock the pedal in a certain position. If you can't do it yourself, get an assistant. Thanks to such actions, it is possible to reduce fluid loss.
• Remove the brake pads. When doing this, rip off, but do not completely twist the brake pipe. Use a thirteen split wrench for this job (it should be handy).

• Twist the pair of bolts that hold the caliper in place. To do it yourself, use the eighteen head. Please note that there may be problems with unscrewing. Use additional leverage to simplify the process.
• Dismantle the caliper together with the brake disc (the devices are no longer fixed by anything).
• Twist the brake hose if you are replacing it completely.

• Bleed the brake system (if the device was replaced).

Do-it-yourself caliper repair occurs according to the following algorithm:

• Remove the piston cup.
• Place a wooden block between the casing and the piston, then squeeze out the piston.
• Assess the condition of the device, its cylinder and piston. If there are defects on the outer part, then change the caliper in the complex.
• Remove the seals from the cylinder recess.
• Dip the part in a container with methyl alcohol and rinse it thoroughly until it is completely free of contamination.
• Install a new seal and collar.
• During assembly, lubricate the device with brake fluid.

As soon as the repair of the device is completed, proceed to its assembly. For this:

• Connect the brake pipe to the caliper.
• Remove the device with which the pedal was fixed or ask your partner to remove the foot.
• Loosen the fitting and wait until the working fluid begins to flow, then pull the fitting.
• Place the caliper on the hub and then tighten the mounting bolts.
• Put the pads back in place.
• Put the wheels on.

As you can see, replacing or repairing a caliper with your own hands is a feasible task even for beginners. At the same time, the cost of a new caliper for Logan is up to 7-8 thousand rubles. If you give preference to non-original parts, then their price can be 2-3 times lower, but you cannot count on high quality either. When choosing a suitable device, refer to the information from the tables below (company / article / description).

Professional caliper repair: replacing Renault Logan caliper guides and staples in a car service

Systematic driving on uneven road surfaces puts a lot of stress on the chassis and front suspension of the vehicle. After a certain interval of run, backlash, cracks, chips, and other defects form, which reduce the performance of the technical device.

So, for example, in the operation of the brake caliper, there is a play of the guide bushings, a metallic knock and clatter of the pressure plate. A malfunction at the initial stage does not bear negative consequences, but later complications and a decrease in the effectiveness of braking are possible.

The workshop offers a wide range of services for the repair of technical equipment of various brands and modifications, including Renault Logan. The most in demand are those works that are related to the chassis and the braking system, including:

• diagnostics of the integrity of friction linings;
• brake caliper prevention;
• Renault Logan caliper replacement;
• replacement of the support bearing;
• bleeding the brake system;
• tightening the steering rack.

We carry out work to eliminate breakdowns associated with the engine, transmission of automatic, mechanical types, chassis, front and rear suspension, steering system. We prepare the car for painting, priming, filling, applying varnish layers to the surface.

Our masters perform work efficiently and quickly, thanks to many years of experience in the field. Equipping the service station with modern diagnostic equipment allows you to carry out inspections of technical equipment as fully and promptly as possible, thereby reducing queues and accelerating the flow of cars. A flexible pricing policy for services, an individual approach to working with clients attract new visitors, and positive feedback about our service is spread.

The design of the brake caliper of a Renault Logan car consists of guides, body base, cylinder, grease fittings, brake fluid supply pipes, brake pads. Each of these mechanisms can potentially fail, become unusable for a number of reasons. The problem can be identified in time by the following malfunctions:

• knocking while driving the car;
• reduced braking efficiency;
• when you press the brake pedal, the car constantly leads to the side, left or right;
• on a road with an uneven surface, the metal plate of the brake caliper makes a ringing, clanging, which indicates a backlash, poor fixation inside the seat.

• deterioration, duration of service life;
• poor-quality installation during the previous repair;
• mechanical damage due to an accident, collision, impact, road accident;
• violation of manufacturing technology, defect factor;
• violation of the rules for operating a car, exceeding speed limits, transporting goods.

Diagnostics will be carried out sequentially on both the left and right calipers. During the inspection, the play in the guides, the condition of the friction linings, the thickness and uniformity of the wear of the brake disc, and visible obvious defects are necessarily checked.

Initially, the caliper should be staggered from side to side, there should be no backlash in good condition. The presence is a sign of a breakdown. The thickness of the pads should not be less than 0.7 mm. An indicator below this mark is not able to create an effective braking force on the cylinder. This means that the braking distance will be increased, which is unacceptable.

Then you need to check the thickness of the disc. It is enough to measure it with a caliper. The minimum allowable indicator is 0.9 mm. This completes the diagnostics, then the master proceeds to eliminate breakdowns by replacing two guides.

To this end, the master jacks up the desired wheel, unscrews it, unscrews two guides on the caliper. Carries out diagnostics, checks the tightness of the planting in the nest. At the same time, he checks the metal pressure plate for the strength of its fixation in the caliper, in the presence of free play, presses or installs a new one so that there is no knocking, clanking. The final stage of the repair: prevention of the brake cylinder, the smoothness of its movement will indicate a good condition. Discontinuity and stiffness are signs of a malfunctioning condition.

The master carries out the final replacement, preventive maintenance, begins assembly and installation on the car. A similar procedure is carried out with the second wheel.

When working with clients, we always form affordable prices so that the cost of services is within the reach of every driver who needs a car repair. Renault Logan owners are given the opportunity to purchase high-quality and original spare parts at affordable prices from the manufacturer.

Masters provide a quality guarantee for all types of work performed within the framework of the order. The sold parts and components are fully certified, there are supporting documents. The length of the warranty is subject to revision, subject to the provision of substandard parts by the customer for installation on the vehicle. All subtleties and disagreements are resolved through negotiations before the start of work.

An alternative inexpensive method to eliminate caliper knocking.
- in general, the method is not very correct. ... Ideally, sharpen new fingers and unfold the finger hole.
In general, there are springs on the pads, which should hold the caliper, just unbend them harder))

about the temperature, WHO measured the temperature of the guide, please unsubscribe and enlighten us.
and another question - what is the temperature of the hub bearing.

An interesting approach to the problem

And in what way you can still create one. I heard that the rubber bands from the tap are still made and serve for a long time.

It could be even easier. You fill lithol and silence for a year for sure.

In no case should lithol be used to lubricate the guides at lithol, the melting point is +130 Celsius. With you, they will simply sour and then it will be difficult to pull them out. A special high-temperature grease is on sale, especially for this. From TRW, liqui moly and others. Tested on many logans.

There is a special high-temperature grease VSMPO-for guides and calipers. It is white. According to tests, it is the leader.

this is nonsense, but it will go better with graphite

Well done. Everything is clear and to the point! Thanks for the video. :-)

The author is certainly a fine fellow, but: flats are needed for the free movement of the lubricant, without them spontaneous braking is possible.

And why are such gaps made at the factory, so that when braking, the metal heats up and expands. In this case, the brakes will not jam when the metal expands?

what for such a hemorrhoid? buy guides others and the turner will grind you with tolerances

what for such a hemorrhoid? buy guides others and the turner will grind you with tolerances

But lithol in vain. When heated, it will dry out and jam all the fuck.

those welded balls will eventually make grooves in the mating part and start rattling with double force. With prolonged braking, the temperature of the calipers is prohibitive for our lithols, solid oils and cyatims, which can turn into stone, so it's better to go buy a high-temperature tube for the calipers

kapets, these grooves on the guides so that the air comes out, what the hell to do

I bought the 31st guides from VOLGA and fitted them as long as possible. for five years now they have been standing and not knocking, they do not rattle and no welding in the brakes

When descending from a very high mountain, the caliper guides will heat up, while the metal will expand and it may be such that it will jam in the sockets. In my opinion, the backlash "gap" should be a little for both the lubricant and the guide pin, so that the caliper piston moves freely back and forth.

If sharpened, then at the turner and for the entire length. With your know-how, the degree of wear of the pin and bushing changes + the ability to glorify the wedge on the track. The support will then be more expensive than a new finger

lithol sticks in the end :) it is better to find a good heat-resistant lubricant

in short, I made three grooves on my LARGUS with the help of a turner and put three rubber bands on each (rubber-graphite rings for installing a VAZ-2110 fuel filter, they cost a penny), (the rubber bands should protrude slightly from the slots, otherwise a finger will not be inserted, black rubber bands colors, and not green, they are thick) smeared with expensive high-temperature grease and silence has been for 1.5 years. When the knocking appears again, you need to replace the rubber bands and apply new grease. And I did not come up with this, this was done a long time ago on similar calipers, when Loganov did not exist. I also heard they put it from a gazelle, but they are pre-cut or grinded, in short, they are adjusted.

garbage, the development is not in the guide but in the caliper itself, the hole becomes egg-shaped. Nodo grind the caliper (make the same hole) and then grind new fingers under this hole. And the fact that the video is all to the light.

It seems to me these fatty nonsense

What are you doing this specially left gap so that when heated it does not jam, just when the caliper knocks, you need to lubricate the seedlings with oil.

what nonsense, with the same success it was possible to simply wrap with electrical tape, as my neighbor. Such things must be carried to the turner and he will decide whether to insert a bracket or a guide to increase in diameter with a material that is resistant to heat, or take new fingers and staples. The groove on the guides was to distribute the lubricant over the working surface, and the lubricant, what kind of lithol, it will boil, you need a high-temperature lubricant, better on a copper basis

I pasted my fingers from a gazelle, cut 0.7 mm and everything is normal. the price of the issue is 300 rubles.

Litol navaryshi. Logan is 9 years old and calipers do not knock. Litol, as you know, as brake fluid absorbs water very well. So imagine what will happen there after a year of driving))))

• How to replace brake caliper on Renault Logan?
• When you need to replace the caliper
• How to remove brake caliper Renault Logan
• How to repair a caliper
• How to install the brake caliper Renault Logan

Renault Logan is reliable, affordable and easy to maintain. Its braking system consists of: emergency, service and parking brakes. Most often used workers. This is the usual braking when driving, and for stopping before a turn or traffic light. Parking brakes used to hold the car during a long stay. Emergency used for an abrupt stop of a car. These brakes will help you avoid an accident and stop the car even when the system is out of order.

The Renault Logan has an excellent braking mechanism. This mechanism differs in that it is fixed very close to the wheel, therefore it has the possibility of contact with it. Such a disc brake mechanism consists of a movable disc, fixed pads in the amount of two pieces, which are located in the middle of the caliper.

Inside the caliper itself, in addition to the pads, there are cylinders whose task is to press the pads into the disc. This mechanism activates the brake drive. The control of mechanics and hydraulics depends on it. In this way, Renault Logan has two braking systemsthat do not depend on one another: hand brake (parking system) and working.

The braking mechanism is divided into front and rear. Their principle of operation is the same: The working brake cylinders are activated through the influence on them of the pressure transmitted through the hoses and pipelines. Under pressure, the pistons start the brake pads, which are pressed against the brake discs.

If you find problems or failure of the brake cylinder, and the rails of the Renault Logan caliper are worn out,The cylinder is seized or leaks through the seals on it. In this case, it is required to carry out Replacing the Logan brake caliper.

Remove the desired wheel using a jack.

Use a wrench to loosen the brake hose. It is necessary to monitor the brake fluid of the hose and cylinder - it must be carefully drained. Using the prepared head, unscrew the two bolts holding the brake caliper. Unscrew and remove them. Then move the brake caliper away from the steering knuckle. It must be removed by unscrewing it from the brake hose tip.

Before starting to repair the caliper, you need to find out what kind of problem you are having. It can be brake pads, discs, brake cylinders or the bolts themselves, all of which indicate bad Logan brakes.

To replace the brake pads, you need to remove the spring of the distance adjuster lever from them, then remove the entire lever. Remove the gap adjuster with the spacer bar.

The next step is to remove the mounting cup and spring. Move the brake pad away from the brake shield. We remove the lever from the drive cable of the parking brake system, not forgetting to squeeze the spring. Now you can remove the old shoe and replace it with a new one. Install it upside-down.

To change the disc, you need to remove the complete caliper, with a hose. Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake disc and remove it. Replace with a new disc and attach it in reverse order.

Thus, having an idea of ​​removing and replacing the Renault Logan brake caliper, you can manipulate its components by replacing them with new ones.

To prevent air from getting into the brake hose, you need to very quickly screw it to the caliper. Care must be taken to ensure that the hose does not twist. Install the caliper to the steering knuckle. Anaerobic locking agent must be applied to the bolts. After installing the caliper, check the brake fluid and remove air by bleeding the system from the hydraulic actuator.

between the caliper and the brake disc and sliding the caliper outward.

b. Fold the caliper up and remove the inner brake shoe from the guide.

i Always check the condition of the protective rubber boots every time the brake pads are replaced | guide finger, as well as re- | positioning of the caliper in relation to the guide of the brake pads. If movement is difficult, grease consis- | with tarpaulin grease the guide pins of the caliper. For this.

... remove the guide pin.

... lubricate it with grease and put the grease into the inner cavity of the cover. Install the pin in the shoe guide in the reverse order of removal. If there are signs of aging of the rubber, replace the protective covers of the guide pins.

7.Install the brake pads in the guides in the reverse order of removal. To prevent self-loosening of the caliper guide pin fastening bolt, lubricate its threads with an anaerobic thread lock before installing. Tighten the bolt to 34 Nm (3.4 kgf-m).

8. Press the brake pedal several times to bring the brake pads to the disc.

10. Replace the brake pads of the brake mechanism of the right wheel in the same way.

11. Check and, if necessary, restore the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder.

After replacing worn out brake pads with new ones, do not rush to immediately leave on busy highways. It is possible that at the first intensive braking you will be unpleasantly struck by the low efficiency of the brakes despite

that branded pads are installed. Brake discs also wear out, and new pads only touch their edges, practically not braking. Choose a quiet street or drive without cars and brake gently several times so that the pads rub in and begin to adhere to the entire surface. At the same time, evaluate the effectiveness of the brakes. Try not to brake abruptly for at least the first 100 km. With strong heating of non-worn-in pads, the top layer of their linings burns and the brakes will not be as effective as possible for a long time.

front wheel brake _

You will need: keys "for 11", "for 18". 1. Remove the wheel from the side of the caliper being replaced.

2. Loosen the tightening of the brake hose tip.

Place a container to drain the remaining brake fluid from the hose and cylinder.

3. Remove the two bolts securing the shoe guide to the steering knuckle.

4. Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle and disconnect it from the brake hose by unscrewing the caliper from the hose end.

5. Install the caliper in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the end of the brake hose completely before installing the caliper on the steering knuckle. When installing the caliper, make sure that the hose is not kinked. Apply an anaerobic thread lock to the threads before installing the caliper-to-steering knuckle bolts. After installation, restore the brake fluid level in the reservoir of the master brake cylinder and bleed the air from the hydraulic brake system (see "Bleeding the hydraulic brake system", p. 150).

If there are scoring, deep marks and other defects on the working surface of the disc that increase the wear of the pads and reduce the braking efficiency, as well as in the case of increased lateral runout of the disc, which causes vibration during braking, replace the disc. In specialized workshops, such a disc can be turned and ground on both sides to the same depth, but after processing, the thickness of the disc must be at least the minimum permissible.

The minimum permissible brake disc thickness is 10.6 mm. If one of the discs is less than the specified thickness, replace both discs. When replacing brake discs, be sure to replace the brake pads with a new set.

You will need a TORX T30 key.

1. Remove the wheel from the side of the disc to be replaced.

2. Remove the caliper assembly (see "Replacing the front wheel brake caliper", page 156) without disconnecting the brake hose, and secure with a wire, not allowing the hose to twist or stretch.

3. Remove the two screws securing the brake disc to the front hub.

This video will help you troubleshoot the following problems:

-low brake efficiency

- extraneous noises during braking and driving (creaks, crunches)

- overheating and, as a result, premature failure of the hub bearing

-beat of the steering wheel when braking

-beat and vibration of the front wheels when driving

- a knock in the front suspension (due to the guide calipers, which are lubricated when replacing the pads)

-leakage of brake fluid (with heavy wear of discs and pads, the piston can crawl out far and leak)

-increased wear of the cuffs of the brake cylinder

- car braking (wheel wedging), which can lead to increased fuel consumption as well as power loss.

To replace the front brake pads and discs on Renault Logan, you will need a 13.17 wrench, a head with a wrench for 18, a TORX T40 wrench, as well as 30 minutes of free time. Difficulties may arise when removing the brake disc from the hub9, tap and lubricate before removing)

It is very important to lubricate the caliper guides with each change and inspect their anthers for breaks.

The average cost in a car service is 400 rubles for replacing pads, 800 rubles with discs.

The front brake caliper is removed for replacement or repair if a leak occurs through the piston cover or if the piston is seized. The need to perform work can be determined during the inspection of the technical condition of the brake system. If the piston is stuck in the cylinder due to corrosion and oxide formation, it is advisable to replace the caliper. If a cylinder leaks due to a damaged or worn piston seal, the caliper can be repaired or replaced.
To carry out the work, you will need a new sealing washer of the brake hose-to-caliper fitting, a rubber bulb and a special lubricant for the brake mechanisms.

Withdrawal
1. Preparing the car for the job.
2. Remove the cover of the reservoir of the master brake cylinder and pump out part of the brake fluid with a rubber bulb (see here).
3. Remove the front wheel (see here).
4. Using a slotted screwdriver, squeeze the outer block from the bracket, pushing the piston into the caliper cylinder.

5. Remove the brake hose (see here).

6. Remove the front brake pads (see here) and the caliper.

Caliper repair
1. Prying off the piston boot with a screwdriver.

2. Apply a slight pressure of compressed air to the brake fluid inlet and push out the piston, placing a block of wood so as not to damage the piston.

4. Pry off with a thin slotted screwdriver and remove the piston collar.

5. Replace the removed boot and cuff, inspect the surfaces of the piston and cylinder. If there are signs of wear, scratches or corrosion, we replace the parts.
6. Before assembly, we lubricate the parts with clean brake fluid.
7. Assembling the caliper in reverse order. When installing the boot, carefully, so as not to tear, fill it onto the caliper with a slotted screwdriver.

Installation
Install the caliper in reverse order.
2. We remove air from the brake hydraulic drive system (see here) and make sure that the connection between the hose and the caliper is tight.

Published by Brakes 2 years ago
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8 cl, ABS, mileage 90,000 km, the second set of pads.

MADLEXXCARS SPACER KIT (MLC RNLT) for Renault Group (Renault) cars Designed to install REAR DISC BRAKES (RDB) with a mechanical parking brake on cars with DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM (ZBT). Spacers (washer plan) are installed on the rear suspension, between the beam and the trunnion (rear axle) on high-strength bolts. Thus, WITHOUT SERIOUS STRUCTURE CHANGES (replacement of a beam, welding ...) A beam without brackets "WITHOUT EARS" is converted into a beam READY for the installation of BRAKE CLAMPS and CALIPERS. In developing our disc brake system for Renault vehicles, we drew on the experience of other developers of similar systems. We have selected affordable and common parts for our system. So that after installing the HWP on the basis of our spacers, car owners do not have any difficulties in the future with repairs or with the search for parts and consumables. Calipers and pads are used from the time-tested MEGAN2 SYSTEMS and GOLF4 calipers Renault Megane 2 non-ventilated brake discs Handbrake cables and hoses Logan / Sandero / Clio Megan 2.3 system for adequate money.

Hello dear readers of the blog Today we will talk about replacing the brake pads of a Renault Logan car. This is a natural process, so from time to time every motorist has a time when they need to be replaced. Replacing brake pads Renault Logan is quite simple at first glance, but, having no experience in repairing cars or any other equipment, you need to contact a car service and entrust the work of replacing a car to locksmiths.

After paying for the work, go on your business, thereby saving your precious time. Nevertheless, there are times when there is no car service or money nearby, and Renault Logan pads need to be replaced, since the time has come for this procedure. After watching this video, you can do the work of replacing the pads yourself, although I do not recommend doing this yourself, but entrust the replacement of the car to locksmiths.

Replacing brake pads on a Renault Logan car must begin with preparatory procedures related to your safety when performing this work. The car must be fixed with reliable stops (shoes or auxiliary means - stone, brick) on the side opposite to the wheel being removed. Also, to guarantee the safety of the Renault Logan car, it is recommended to put the hand brake on.

Next, the cap is attached (from the side of the key cover) of the cast disc, then the wheel bolts are loosened beforehand.

When recoiling or tightening wheel bolts, it is always necessary to tighten crosswise, cross, or two to three, if there are 5 bolts, this will center the fit of any wheel rim. With a strong tightening, when it is not possible to unscrew the bolts, you can put on a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter on the wrench or purchase a wheel wrench with a sliding telescopic handle, which significantly increases the force. In the absence of the listed tool, you can help by pressing your foot on the wheel wrench while unscrewing the wheel bolts. When tightening, tighten by hand only.

Next, the wheel must be jacked up. If the soil under the jack is not firm, then it is recommended to put a piece of board or plywood or similar material under its base. Having raised the body to the required height to free the wheel being lifted, for safety reasons you need to put any support: an iron canister on the edge, a "tragus", any reliable object or a second jack.

Then the wheel bolts are finally given, and it is removed. It can also be placed under the serviced node for safety reasons.

Then, to complete the work, turn the steering wheel to the right until it stops (we service the right front wheel). It is advisable not to turn the steering wheel abruptly, remembering that the car, being at the moment on the jack, may fall.

Now you can clearly see the brake caliper, as well as the Renault Logan pads themselves, which you need to replace.

To do this, we give two bolts of the caliper guides with a wrench x13, using a socket wrench or a head with a knob. If there is a "ratchet", then the work is done faster at times, and much more convenient. Outside of the guide there is a flat for a wrench x17, which needs to support the guide from scrolling.

You can give only the upper bracket bolt to replace the Renault Logan brake pad, but we also need to revise the rails themselves, and therefore we are giving both of their fasteners. In work on replacing the pads, you can also use an open-end wrench for x13 for convenience.

When the upper fastening of the bracket is released, you can take it down and inspect the condition of the pads.

Let's check the size of the pads, if it is 6 mm or less, then the brake pads on Renault Logan must be replaced. This can be freely determined by eye or using any school ruler.

After both bolts of the caliper bracket have been removed, removing it, we also remove the anthers (corrugations) of the guides for revising the guides themselves and the holes for them.

Usually, when the integrity of the boot (corrugation) is violated, dirt gets into the connection and the guides cannot easily move in their holes, which leads to malfunction of the caliper and sticking of the cylinder piston stroke.

If necessary, the bore / guide connection is cleaned and then lubricated. In our case, we purchased an excellent grease from the German company Liquid Moli - “synthetic grease for the brake system”. The grease does not "play" with water, heat-resistant retains its lubricating properties for a long time.

If your Renault Logan car has traveled about 60 thousand km, then it is better to free the unit from the old grease and then add a new portion (within reason). After lubricating the joint, try the ease of movement of the rail.

Replacing the brake pads, if necessary, at the same time making an audit of the guides and making sure that they are NOT DRY, but LUBRICATED, we assemble everything in the reverse order.

In order to install new brake pads, screw the caliper piston into place with a gas wrench until it stops, thus freeing up space for the linings. You can also use a flat object to press the piston back into the caliper cylinder. For example, putting a thin old block and between it and the brake disc, press down with a powerful screwdriver or installer.

Then we insert the new pads and the caliper bracket into place, then we wrap the fastening bolts, first having baited them, and then tightening them completely. When installing the caliper, make sure that the brake hose attached to it is not kinked.

When tightening the mounting bolts, hold the guides by the flat with a x17 wrench, otherwise the anthers have the ability to twist and can either jump off the seat in the future or quickly fail. By the way, it would be nice to lubricate the threads of the caliper mounting bolts with a lock of threaded connections, as it was originally - you can see the blue remnants of the lock (see photo).

In general, the work on the prevention of the caliper on the right wheel has been completed; on the left wheel, all work on replacing the pads is done in the same way as on the right wheel.

Before starting off after replacing pads or other repairs with the brake system, it is imperative to bleed by checking the action of the brake pedal and, if necessary, bleed the car brakes again.