Steering rack audi a4 b6 DIY repair

On the Audi A4 of the first and second generation, two versions of rails were installed - made by ZF and manufactured by Koyo. It is impossible to say which specific option you have in advance. You need to look in and see who the manufacturer of your rail is. Accordingly, these rails have various typical faults.

At repair of the A4 steering rack Corrosion is the first thing that ZF has to deal with. The metal rack of the ZF steering rack is highly susceptible to corrosion. When even a small fistula forms in the anthers, outside air enters the steering rack and brings moisture. Moreover, in steering rack A4 corrosion appears. Oil seals cannot work on a rusty surface for a long time and begin to leak. As some say: the steering rack "ran".

The shaft-rack damaged by corrosion is restored at Gidrolab without any problems. We have all modern methods of shaft-rack corrosion protection. Minor corrosion (no more than 0.2 mm deep) is removed free of charge. More details about corrosion and methods of its elimination here: Corrosion of the shaft-rack.

Corrosion in steering racks A4 made by ZF can also damage the shaft teeth. If the teeth in the steering rack are severely rusted, then they can no longer be operated and it is dangerous. The shaft will have to be changed. As a last resort, we have spare shafts in stock.

Repair of a steering rack A4 from Koyo has very different typical faults.

The main trouble of these rails was the backlash and wear of the distributor crankcase. The situation when the oil turns black very quickly, the pump deteriorates, and the A4 steering rack begins to wedge on a cold car, very often on A4. Moreover, if you have steering wheel wedges on the Audi A4, then you almost certainly have a steering rack made by Koyo.

The Gidrolab company is one of the few in Moscow that successfully and inexpensively restores the distributor crankcase when repair of the A4 steering rack according to its proprietary technology and gives 13 months warranty .

The distributor crankcase cranking method using proprietary technology and special materials does not just prolong life steering rack A4 , but makes this knot eternal. Everything else can break, and the crankcase will not wear out again!

Backlash is the second problematic point of the A4 steering rack made by Koyo.

In addition to the A4 steering rack bushings, backlash is formed in the cracker, which presses the teeth of the shafts to each other. The cracker on Koyo racks wears out quickly, after which it begins to move up and down in its crankcase and ceases to rigidly hold the rack shaft in the vertical direction.

Repair of steering racks A4 With the wear of the rusks and its crankcase, the Gidrolab company is made using proprietary technology. This technology guarantees excellent fixation of the shaft-rack against vertical movement and the complete absence of backlash after repair.

More details: "Wear of a biscuit and its crankcase". For all work - 13 months warranty !

At repair of steering racks A4 with the wear of the distributor crankcase, unfortunately, the question arises about the harm that the aluminum that has been erased from the distributor crankcase has done to the pump. It does not disappear anywhere, but accumulates in the power steering system. To eliminate the consequences, Gidrolab will flush the power steering system from metal particles in the oil and replace the tank.

Repair of a steering rack A4 in the Gidrolab company does not cause difficulties and is very well developed. Come and see for yourself!

One of the main components of the car is the control system. Almost all foreign-made cars are equipped with automatic control of malfunctions.Thanks to him, the operation of the vehicle will be blocked when serious malfunctions are detected. If the steering rack breaks down, the ECU will generate an error, further operation of the car will be impossible until the problems have been eliminated. The specialists of our service center will help you to solve them in a short time.

Audi A4 cars represent the middle class. Power units of the longitudinal type are installed on them, in addition, they can have four-wheel or front-wheel drive. The basic configuration provides for the presence of a power steering and a special system that stabilizes the traction of the power unit.

The steering rack of this vehicle is a single well-coordinated mechanism, and the car's control unit immediately reports malfunctions in its operation. When an error signal is received from the sensor that controls the steering angle, the car will not move.

Vehicles from German manufacturers are reliable and easy to drive. But nothing is eternal, and they sometimes fail. Signs that should alert the car owner and force him to seek professional help, as a result of a malfunction of the Audi A4 B5 steering rack:

• while driving, there is a beating of the steering wheel, this feeling is enhanced on an even road surface or minor bumps. This occurs as a result of improper functioning of the steering rods;
• after parking, oil stains remain under the front of the vehicle. The reason for this is leaking power steering or oil seals. The hydraulic booster experiences the greatest loads when turning the wheels to extreme positions, it is then that the greatest pressure is created in it, which leads to the formation of leaks;
• there was a decrease in steering performance: the car does not obey it, does not immediately respond to its turns. Or the steering wheel becomes difficult to turn. This situation indicates a problem with the rail. There are also extraneous noises under the hood in the front of the car.

In the event that you notice at least one of the listed signs or there are some suspicions of improper operation of your vehicle, do not delay contacting a specialized service center. Run advanced diagnostics. This will help prevent the creation of accidents. In addition, a timely found and repaired malfunction will cost several times cheaper than a complete restoration of the control system.

Even the highest quality and most reliable equipment can break during use. All units in the car are interconnected. For this reason, vehicle repairs must be carried out by highly qualified specialists.

The reasons for the failure of the steering rack can be:

• long-term use and sufficiently large vehicle mileage;
• penetration of air or water into the system;
• violations during replacement of steering assemblies;
• perforation of the hydraulic booster or malfunction of the connecting elements;
• During the repair, non-original, poor quality parts were installed.

To repair the steering rack of the Audi A4, it is required to perform a preliminary diagnosis of all nodes of the control system. It allows you to determine whether it is worth dismantling the rail for a more thorough check at a special stand.

If a malfunction of this unit is identified, the master completely disassembles it in order to troubleshoot and replace faulty parts. If the rack shaft and other elements are damaged by corrosion to an insignificant extent, our masters will be able to restore the steering rack of your Audi A4. If the degree of damage is high, it will have to be replaced.

Our masters with the help of professional equipment in your presence will conduct:

• full diagnostics of malfunctions of the steering mechanism. Check the tightness of the assembly elements when the pressure rises, using a special stand. If a leak is detected, the damaged seals will be replaced;
• the steering wheel will be thoroughly inspected and, if necessary, restored. If there is too much free play, its cause may be a malfunction of the steering column cross;
• the performance of the hydraulic booster will be checked. If necessary, the gaskets will be replaced, and if necessary, the power steering will be completely replaced;
• for a steering rack with an electric power steering, our masters will carry out computer diagnostics, which will help to identify and fix problems.

If the inspection reveals a slight deformation of the rail or reveals cracks on the anthers, our craftsmen will carry out work to restore the damaged elements. The repaired units will be installed according to their regular places and work will be done to adjust them.

If any of the components of the control system is badly damaged, you will be offered to replace it with a new original or repaired, used one. You will also receive our guarantees for such parts.

We must not forget that on Audi A4 cars, the rail must be adjusted not only after dismantling and installation, but also without fail after repair measures.

still in the process of writing
This report consists of materials made iva99380798(for which many thanks to him.) Well, and my ad-libbing.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and instructions on the borrowed photos, because info taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. = 1 # post2068729

Background.
For some time now, I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. Moreover, it does not depend on a straight line or with inverted wheels. And recently, the flow of the reiki itself was added

Story.

Since walking is not quite hunting, I began to look for the rail in an inoperative state. The guys loaded up exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out for a long time which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its affiliation to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is how she looks on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I'll try .
Having fished out the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here is such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to shoot a reiki.

First, we climb under the torpedo from the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's feet.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rack (a bolt with an eccentric and a wrench for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the work in the salon.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the swivel levers.

Then, from the driver's side, remove the protective casing / boot

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, underneath is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the form of a 12-sided head, for which a 10-sided head with 12 sides was purchased. Immediately I unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I got under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Then he unscrewed the slurry supply to the rail, the bolt 22 + 2 pucks (we don’t lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the slurry return - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Here everything is released, we take out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I didn’t take off the wheels, I just jacked it up on this side)
And now this is a miracle in hand

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they were twisted.
Next, remove the anthers ... It is better to prepare the place in advance, because a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the steering rods, I had one on the verge of death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I would not think.

1.Next, we screw it on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tighten the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we try to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. Remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Then, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/ URL] and take out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm, I changed:
1 gland and one o-ring on the bushing with the bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
on the shaft itself there are 4 white little rings and under them 4 black ones. We lubricate everything with liquid and put it aside until assembly.

Move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We need to remove the retaining ring (it is already taken off a little higher in the photo). We put the rail on the “priest” and pulling / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem (1), the bushing (2), and the shaft itself.

We take the stock. On it we change the O-ring and the oil seal
Next, on the bushing, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We make his troubleshooting. My shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on the one hand.
Change 1 white sealing ring on the shaft. Now we put all this aside until assembly and grab the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft) and take the head on 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and, with a light blow, knock out the oil seal and the bushing, which are approximately in the middle of the body. These are they:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.

From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I picked them up and went to tempt fate once again.
He took off the rail again, disassembled it, wiped everything. He took off the oil seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters were considered:
1. The thickness of the gland is the same, the only difference is in the installation of the nylon ring

2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. Appearance of the working surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. It is apparently designed to work under high pressure.
I made better pictures:
The first photo shows the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th oil seal

Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155

IgArek »Fri May 04, 2012 23:31

this spring everyone has problems with racks, so I think the topic is relevant

first, unscrew the rail itself
1) the bolt under the battery

3) the bolt in the same place as the vacuum cleaner only from the bottom under the car did not take a picture of it
I didn't want to climb under the car with the phone))

4) then remove the lower part of the torpedo plastic under the steering wheel of the 4p bolt.
unfortunately, I also did not have time to take a picture of this from the Internet

5) then unscrew the rod bolt from the steering column

7) then we pull the rail towards ourselves, and when it comes out, we unscrew the two gur hoses

8) remove such plastic under the left wing

9) and take out the rail through the left wing

and that's actually this leaking scoundrel

well and put everything in reverse order

For audi brands a4, b6 and vw passat b5 the manufacturer installs the same steering racks. Which allows us to consider them in general.

Problems rarely arise with the repair of cars of German concerns. Spare parts are usually in stock, so repairs are not time-consuming.Replacing the struts and tie rod ends is a standard procedure that every car owner repeats at regular intervals. Due to the reliability of the assemblies installed in production, steering racks for Audi and VW rarely fail before the mileage line of 200,000 km.

In the event that a leak is periodically found under the machine from the location of the power steering, you should immediately contact the professionals who will eliminate the problem that has arisen. If you do not attach importance to small puddles under the car, later you can "get" to a much more expensive repair.

The steering rack is an important element of the vehicle's steering mechanism. Its good condition ensures not only the performance of the vehicle, but also the safety of road users.

If even the slightest questions about the operation of the above system are brewing, you should immediately contact the service center to fix the problem.

How to determine what exactly the “symptoms” are associated with the steering rack? Sometimes, without a thorough examination, it is impossible to say exactly where the breakdown is and how serious it is, but there are signs that you need to be wary of and urgently show your car to a specialist.

• knocking in the area of ​​the front axle;
• tight steering wheel;
• the liquid on the anthers of the steering rack;
• lowering the fluid level in the power steering reservoir;
• control problems.

The above symptoms are not always related to steering wheel malfunctions; accurate diagnostics can only be carried out using special conditions and knowledge. If the problem is confirmed, then the repair must be carried out as soon as possible.

Our company carries out repair of steering racks in Minsk. Bringing any car into proper condition is not only our job, it is our responsibility.

Although Audi A4 cars are quite reliable, unpleasant situations still arise during operation due to the failure of one or another unit. One of them is the steering rack. First of all, it should be said that steering racks were installed on Audi cars from different manufacturers and each has its drawbacks. So, despite the reliability of the ZF rails, they are subject to corrosion inside. This is due to the formation of condensation. Since there are many rubbing parts inside the rail that have a polished surface, they corrode, which leads to failure of the oil seals.

In addition to the designated manufacturer, Audi rails from Koyo and SMI were installed. They are less susceptible to corrosion, but the distributor housing is distinguished by its increased wear. This problem manifests itself as "biting" the steering wheel both in one direction and in both directions. The reason is eliminated either by replacing the crankcase or by repairing it. It is also worth noting the fact that ZF, unlike Koyo and SMI, offers components for its products. Each part can be ordered separately.

Basically, car owners pay attention to the steering rack when knocks appear in the front of the car. At first they are not strong, but over time the knocking becomes stronger, which is very noticeable on a bad road. Also, one of the common problems is, as mentioned above, fluid leakage. Naturally, it is necessary to repair the steering rack or even replace it if it cannot be repaired. The cost is considerable. In this case the most preferable option would be to buy a refurbished railthan just used. This is due to the fact that practically no one will give a guarantee for a used part.

First of all, we put on the handbrake and substitute wedges under the rear wheels. We loosen the bolts of the front wheels, raise the front end and put it on the pads. Remove both front wheels and screw one wheel bolt into the hubs to fix the brake discs. We remove the battery and its shelf. Set the steering wheel to the center position and remove the ignition key to fix the steering column.

Under the tidy, remove the glove compartment and driver's side lining to get to the base of the steering column.So that the column does not disintegrate, when removed from the shaft, it is necessary to tie the upper and lower parts with wire. We unscrew the nut (5) on the clamp for attaching the hinge to the shaft, turn the bolt (3) half a turn, take it out of the clamp. Remove the hinge from the shaft and set it aside. Remove the cover on the engine board and take it out towards the passenger compartment.

We drain the fluid from the power steering reservoir. The remaining liquid will drain when you disconnect the pipes (prepare a container). We remove part of the locker for access to the steering knuckles. We put marks for assembly and remove the tubes. We discard the sealing washers; new ones are needed for installation. Disconnect the tips from the steering knuckles. We unscrew the bolts (1) securing the rail to the body. Left bolt under the brake cylinder.

Right under the battery shelf.

The center bolt is unscrewed from below. You will have to look for it literally by touch. Remember to disconnect the connector.

Once again, we check that everything has been thrown back and take out the rail.

The control system is one of the main elements of the car. Modern foreign cars are equipped with automated control of malfunctions, which will block the car in case of serious breakdowns. So, if the rail is faulty, the on-board computer will show an error and will not allow you to continue driving. The masters of our auto repair shop will quickly and efficiently deal with such problems.

The Audi a4 belongs to the middle class. It has an engine with a longitudinal arrangement, front-wheel drive or four-wheel drive. Even the basic configuration includes a power steering (GUR) and a system for stabilizing the traction enhancement of the engine.

The steering rack of the Audi A4 b5 works as one well-coordinated mechanism, while smart electronics signals the slightest malfunctions in operation. If the steering angle sensor signals an error, emergency mode will be activated and the vehicle will not move.

To restore the performance of the Audi A4, it is necessary to understand that the control system consists not only of a steering wheel, but also of a rack, power steering, and a large number of connecting elements. And the movement of the car is possible only when a signal comes from the steering wheel through the whole complex of elements to the axis that regulates the angle of rotation of the wheels.

Even the most reliable and proven equipment breaks down during operation. In the car, all elements are interconnected, therefore, the restoration of the vehicle should be trusted only by professionals.

The steering rack can fail for a number of reasons:

• long service life of the vehicle and high mileage;
• the ingress of liquid into the system;
• replacement of any steering elements was carried out incorrectly;
• penetration of power steering or departure of connecting elements;
• non-original and substandard spare parts were supplied during the repair process.

Most of the causes of breakdowns associated with poor-quality components or incorrect balancing during the repair process can be avoided by contacting our auto repair shop in St. Petersburg. Several service centers, conveniently located around the city, where only experienced craftsmen work, are always open to owners of foreign cars.

German cars are renowned for their reliability and ease of handling. However, even they can fail their owner over time. The reasons for concern and the need to contact professionals due to a malfunction in the steering of the Audi A4 are:

1. When driving, you hear strong steering beats. This becomes especially noticeable on the track (flat road) or on small bumps. Such a symptom indicates an interruption in the operation of the steering rod system.
2. Oil stains appear on the parking area. This indicates a break through the power steering or seals. The strongest loads on the hydraulic booster are at the moment of the extreme position of the steering wheel, it is at the maximum pressure that "holes" appear in the system.
3. The steering wheel began to work worse. The car does not immediately follow the commands or the steering wheel is more difficult to turn. This is a clear sign of a malfunction in the steering rack. In this case, additional knocks and noises may appear in the front of the car under the hood.

If you notice one of the above signs or simply suspect that the car is not working correctly, contact the professionals for a complete diagnosis of the Audi A4 b5. Such a measure will prevent accidents on the road, as well as a breakdown detected and eliminated in time will be cheaper than restoring the entire control system.

Turning to our auto repair shop, repairing the Audi A4 steering rack will take a little time, and you will receive long-term guarantees for the result of the repair. Using professional equipment, the masters will conduct in front of your eyes:

1. Steering rack diagnostics. In this case, the tightness of the element under pressure will be checked on a special stand. If leaks are found, a partial disassembly of the oil seals and seals will be carried out.
2. Inspection and restoration of the steering wheel. If a backlash has formed, the reason may lie in the column cross.
3. Checking the performance of the power steering. Replacement of gaskets will be carried out, if necessary, then a complete replacement of the hydraulic booster.
4. Computer diagnostics of the EUR to identify and eliminate the malfunction.

In case of severe damage to any of the elements of the Audi A4 control system, it will be proposed to replace the failed element with a new original or repaired used version in our workshop. The second method of installing a spare part is cheaper and also covered by the warranty.

By contacting us, you will not only receive a fully restored car, but also a number of other advantages:

• the efficiency of the work of experienced craftsmen;
• transparency of pricing policy;
• the ability to choose a new original spare part or a repaired and high-quality part;
• guarantees for the work performed;
• fast and comprehensive diagnostics;
• qualified advice on increasing the service life of the car.

We work with all foreign cars, and in the warehouse we store repair kits for all years of production of the Audi A4. Call right now and specify the cost and time for the restoration of the steering rack.

Check before you buy! What is the difference - it is not known, drip!
1. Corteco 15598534. This is a rail repair kit from the manufacturer ZF. Analog 19030476
2. Steering rack repair kit CORTECO, 19030477, Applicability: Audi A4. VW Passat 1.6-2.8 KOYO 98-
3. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 19030479, Applicability: Audi A4 1.8T ZF d = 39mm 95-
4. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 15598554, Applicability: Audi A4 1.8T ZF d = 39mm 95>
5. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 15598535, Applicability: Audi A4. VW Passat 1.6-2.8 KOYO 98-
6. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 19030478, Applicability: Audi A4 1.8T ZF d = 41mm 95-
7. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 15598553, Applicability: Audi A4 1.8T ZF d = 41mm 95-
8. Steering rack repair kit. CORTECO, 15599950, Applicability: Audi. Seat. Skoda Octavia. VW Golf all ZF 96-

Especially for AUDI-FAQ.COM . When reprinting, give a direct link!

We remove the rail.
We wash my car and especially the front wheel arches to the maximum.
Car to the pit or to the lift. (description on the pit).
We install the front part of the car on supports, remove the wheels, disconnect the steering tips from the steering knuckle.
Unscrew the coolant expansion tank mount.
Remove the protective plastic casing in the left wheel arch around the left end of the rail (by unscrewing the nut with a 10 wrench and pulling out two pistons behind the rack).
We remove the battery.
We pump out liquid from the gur tank.
We unscrew the fastening bolts of the drain (key 22) and pressure head (key 19) power steering sleeves.
RESIDUAL LIQUID IS DRAINED SUBSTITUTE CONTAINER TO COLLECT.
Unscrewing, remove the bolts and sealing washers, and lift the sleeves up to the place of the coolant expansion tank.
Remove the passenger compartment cover under the steering wheel (4 screws head 8).
We unscrew the lock nut (key 15), the eccentric screw securing the steering shaft and the rack shaft. Having unscrewed the nut, using a Torx # 50 wrench, we turn the eccentric bolt towards the weakening of the clamp by half a turn, and take it out.
We unscrew the 3 screws securing the rail with a socket head of 10, about twelve faces which, (2 on top in the washbasin and one on the bottom under the vacuum cleaner, I already have a hexagon).
We bring the rail through the left arch, moving the steering knuckle to the side (who cannot, unscrew the upper levers).

• Guarantee 6 months without mileage limitation
• Free of charge diagnostics
• Repair of a steering wheel of any brand during 2-4 hours

Price: 8 000rub.I want a discount

• Car model Steering rack repair Removal and installation Total cost of repair
• A1 8,000 rub. 4 000 rub. 12 000 rub.
• A2 8000 rub. 4 000 rub. 12 000 rub.
• A3 8,000 rub. 4 000 rub. 12 000 rub.
• A4 (B5, B6) 8,000 rub. 4 000 rub. 12 000 rub.
• A4 (B7, B8) 8,000 rub. 4 500 rub. 12 500 rub.
• A5 8,000 rub. 5 000 rub. 13 000 rub.
• A6 (C5) 8,000 rub. 4 500 rub. 12 500 rub.
• A6 (C6, C7) 8000 rub. 5 500 rub. 13 500 rub.
• A7 8,000 rub. 5 500 rub. 13 500 rub.
• A8 (D2) 8,000 rub. 5 500 rub. 13 500 rub.
• A8 (D3) 8,000 rub. 6 000 rub. 14 000 rub.
• A8 (D4) 9,000 rub. 6 000 rub. 15 000 rub.
• S, RS 8,000 rub. 6 500 rub. 14 500 rub.
• TT 8,000 rub. 4 000 rub. 12 000 rub.
• Q3 8,000 rub. 6 000 rub. 14 000 rub.
• Q5 8,000 rub. 6 000 rub. 14 000 rub.
• Q7 8 500 rub. 5 500 rub. 14 000 rub.
• Repair of the steering rack A6 (C6) - 2007 9 500 rub. 4 000 rub. 13 500 rub.

The price is based on the calculation of the cost of parts and the complexity of the unit repair. Cars of clients with power steering of any brands and brands undergo a standard procedure, which includes:

1. Free diagnostics
2. If the rail is on the car, then removing the unit
3. Checking the steering rack at the stand (for performance and tightness)
4. Parsing, washing the steering rack
5. Shaft and corroded parts grinding on a specialized machine
6. In 99.95%, replacement of worn out oil seals, from 1 to 4 pieces, the part is a consumable and is primarily subject to wear
7. Replacement of worn parts (if necessary)
8. Assembling and re-testing the reiki
9. Installing the unit on a vehicle
10. Filling in liquid and checking the steering mechanism (the liquid is provided by the client or ours from 500 rubles)

Only after going through this repair procedure, we can guarantee you the uninterrupted operation of the unit and give you a 6-month warranty with no mileage limitation.

You can get acquainted with the list of completed works and the repair procedure in the Completed works section.