Steering rack without power steering Ford transit DIY repair

1. All advice, before buying something - be sure to remove, disassemble, consider your spare part - applies to everything. And then GOU with old spare parts to the market in search of repair kits.

2. I didn't know what kind of rail I had, so I took it off the car - first I unscrewed it from the beam, from the steering column, from the wheels - but it didn't work out that way. Then I had to remove the boot from the right end of the rail and unscrew the rod. As a result, the rail came out.

3. Remove the second boot and unscrew the second lever - the left one.

ATTENTION. When removing the anthers, it is better not to break the plastic clips from the narrow end of the boot, but to remove it as carefully as possible.

4. Next. We unscrew the crosspiece from the side of the steering column, remove the protective plastic boot - it is from two rings, then we take out the retaining ring and washer. It seems that everything is on this side, but I could have forgotten something - a month has passed after all.

5. Then the ARCHIACUATIVE procedure - unscrew the aluminum nut-cover on the rail - it presses the worm shaft with a spring to the rail itself through a special gadget of the piston type. This lid is slightly tucked like a core from the edge closer to the body - so that it does not self-unscrew, therefore it is very difficult to spin, and knocking down the edges is like two fingers. ... It is unrealistic to find it on the market - only together with the rail. When I knocked down the edges a little, then I turned on my brain and specially cut the head to 17 (this is the key), so that it pressed more tightly against the edges of the lid. He unscrewed it and took out a spring and a piston type.

6. Now we got to the bottom side of the shaft - there is a stopper - a cover - a nut - a washer. Then we knock the worm shaft up - tobish towards the steering rack. The shaft was knocked out along with the middle bearing and the oil seal - I was lucky. I easily knocked out the lower bearing from the rack using an extension.

I list from left to right. Nut, washer, lower bearing, the worm itself, then the lower shaft seal (black), the middle bearing. Further, the valve holes, between which there are 4 fluoroplastic rings (white), the last one is the upper roller bearing together with a built-in oil seal. All this is covered from above with a washer, a stopper, a plastic boot, and, finally, to the teeth - the crosspiece of the column.

7. We take out the rack shaft itself from the body (let it be a rake). To do this, we take out the retaining ring on the right side of the rail body and begin to pick, scratch everything inside - it's a joke. We just put the rail in a vertical position on a plane with a hole (I had a hefty vice) and begin to knock slightly on the opposite end of the shaft, but without fanaticism. There is a piston in the middle of the shaft on the shaft - it will knock out this incomplete type of cylinder.

8. The hemorrhoid itself is to knock out, pick out, blow out, suck out, or simply remove the internal oil seal of the rail, without scratching the mirror of the case inside. A long beard with a splashed end helped me. By the way - he is not alone there - there is also a fluoroplastic ring and a fluoroplastic seal, which in every possible way prevent the oil seal from being removed, they can be safely knocked out together with the oil seal.

9. That's all. All that remains is the body and tubes. The photo shows the location of the internal oil seal

10. Now we take all the insides without rhea and GOU to the market. That's where I found out that my rake was ZX - (or ZP) - to hell.

11. There were 2 types of repair kits.
The first one cost $ 10-20 at different points. There was only one transparent bag, which contained almost all rubber products and PTFE separately. The piston that presses the spring against the yoke is plastic, and in my yard it is aluminum (pictured in the upper right corner).The quality of all details is gauno.
The second cost $ 55-70? DP-grup is called. There are three bags in the box - black, you can't see anything. I persuaded one seller to unpack everything. In the first package there was a roller bearing assembly with an oil seal (CM photo), in the second - a type of a cylinder assembled with an oil seal, a PTFE ring and a PTFE bushing (CM photo). In the third - everything else - I signed something on the photo. Piston type - aluminum.
That's it - I take this kit, at the same time I checked everything to match the old one. Teflon rings were also with burrs, but better than in the first set.

2. We take a yard and begin to consider how to replace a fluoroplastic ring on the piston of the yard. I say right away - it is NOT NECESSARY to change it. Firstly, it is not so slightly in width, and secondly, the old one after being removed from the groove will be deformed, so it will not work for the secondary installation. Thirdly, the new ring, after installation on the yoke, will stretch slightly, and your horseradish yarn will fit into the case. As a result, I counted the ring with fine sandpaper for 2 hours until it fit. Although the old was normal.

3. We put it - we put the yarn into the body, on the back side we put a ready-made type cylinder directly from the kit - quickly and beautifully. You will notice that the yard on this side is slightly rusty - so we polish it on the machine to a shine with a felt wheel and goy paste. All the rust has not disappeared, but everything is buzzing in the working area. Then we fix everything with a retaining ring.
In the photo there is a ray without a case, so it's clearer.

5. On top of the shaft I put a washer and a stopper, then a boot.
6. It comes to lubrication with graphite, or grease, or other crap of the place of contact between the shaft worm and the teeth of the yard. There is never a lot of lubrication. Access, in principle, is normal - we smear and twist.
7. We put an aluminum type piston, then a spring, then we wrap a miracle nut-cover. After running in, the cover must be tightened, or vice versa, loosened if the steering wheel is tight.
8. Fasten the left lever, put the boot. But here is an ambush. The plastic clamp from the repair kit is very fragile and bang - it breaks, we put an old or iron clamp under a screwdriver - it's better to buy it right away. Then we push the system into the car, screw on the right lever, put on the boot, screw on all the pipes, fill in the liquid, pump the steering wheel.
9. And now we pray that everything works and nothing flows.

I tried to describe it in as much detail as possible, if it is not clear to anyone, then excuse me.

Ford Transit owners, as a rule, do not complain about problems with the operation of their vehicle, which is characterized by increased reliability.

However, the steering rack often becomes a vulnerable node, due to increased loads during intensive use.

In order to use the working resource of this unit as efficiently as possible (about 200 thousand kilometers of run), timely preventive diagnostics and maintenance are required - at least twice a year. Neglecting these deadlines will significantly shorten the life of the Reiki.

It is worth noting that the Ford Transit steering rack has a number of design features that make it virtually impossible to repair it yourself, and also make it difficult to find spare parts when using cheaper analogues. There are two main points:

In most rails, the shaft is hollow and has the function of an air duct, connecting the two anthers of the steering rods. In Ford Transit, this shaft is not hollow, but a special plastic tube is provided as an air duct. In the places of its connection with the anthers, the loss of tightness most often occurs. As a result, condensation appears inside and the corrosion process accelerates.

Naturally, this mechanism rarely breaks down suddenly. Most often, a long-term ignorance of the primary signs of a problem by the car owner leads to a major breakdown. It is worth paying attention to:

1. Knock on the front axle. Initially, it is only heard when driving through holes and other irregularities. Then the intensity increases and the sound begins to give to the steering wheel in the form of a beat.If the breakdown has reached this stage, urgently contact a car service, as the Transit steering rack can very soon fail completely.
2. The steering angle is different from the steering wheel angle - a sure sign that the vehicle will not steer well at speed. Do not delay repairs in this case, since driving with a steering gear in this state is extremely dangerous.
3. The presence of a power steering fluid leak or simply a drop in its level in the tank. Do not wait until all the liquid has flowed out - the repair must be carried out promptly, since the complete absence of liquid in the system leads to serious damage.
4. The steering wheel spontaneously turns during movement or play is felt.
5. The steering wheel has difficulty returning to its original position when turning.

It is impossible to perform correct diagnostics of this unit on our own - this requires modern diagnostic equipment. Without it, there is a great risk of error, and improper repair will quickly lead to repeated failure of this element.

Diagnostics is usually carried out in several stages:

1. Dismantle the rail. This is a time-consuming operation, since many other elements must be removed for easy access.
2. The node is evaluated using computer stands. These diagnostic devices are able to reliably reproduce the operating modes of the car, which allows you to accurately establish the causes of the breakdown.
3. Disassembly of the rail and its cleaning. For Ford Transit, due to the design features of the rail, which were mentioned above, this stage is of particular importance, since the unit is subject to corrosion much more often than its counterparts in other models.
4. Troubleshooting of each of the elements and a general conclusion on the maintainability of the rail, as well as the parts to be replaced.

The decision on whether the steering rack can be restored must be made after a comprehensive analysis of its condition. Both elements with a too large percentage of damaged parts and a heavily deformed Ford Transit steering rack cannot be restored; in this case, buying a new rail is more profitable than repairing an old one.

If a so-called preventive repair is performed, then often it is limited to thorough cleaning of the system from corrosion and flushing it. Naturally, after that it is necessary to replace the power steering fluid outside the plan (a planned replacement should be carried out every three years or every 100 thousand kilometers). Timely carrying out of such operations will avoid more complex and expensive manipulations.

However, the most common option is to repair with the replacement of the so-called repair kit, which includes the most wearing parts (oil seals, gaskets, etc.). These parts, during the operation of the rail, experience the most severe load, and are also a frequent cause of loss of tightness of the system and the appearance of corrosion, therefore, the choice of spare parts should be taken with special attention. The task is complicated by the above design features of the rail on the Transit - because of them, it will be very problematic to choose analogues of another brand.

An obligatory element of any rail repair is repeated bench diagnostics of its condition at the end of work. After installation, running tests of the unit are also carried out.

When operating the unit, you should be careful - do not drive over obstacles at maximum speed, since at this moment a very serious load falls on the rail.

Also, do not twist the steering wheel to extreme positions unnecessarily, making the most smooth maneuvers as possible.

If it is necessary to do this by unscrewing the steering wheel, release it briefly so that the pressure in the power steering system drops slightly, and only then return it to its original position.

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The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

• there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
• increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
• there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
• there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
• power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

• toothed shaft;
• steering rack support sleeve;
• spool mechanism.

Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:

1. Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
2. Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
3. Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.

1. Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
2. Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
3. Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
4. Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
5. Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.

1. Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
2. Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Pull out the lower oil seal.
6. Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
7. Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
8. Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
9. Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

1. Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
2. Place the rail into the enclosure.
3. Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
4. Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. Place the steering rack in the middle position.
7. Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
8. Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
9. Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
10. Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.