Steering rack Daewoo Takuma DIY repair

In detail: steering rack Daewoo Takuma DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Chevrolet Rezzo. STEERING

On Chevrolet Rezzo cars, power steering and a gear-rack-type steering mechanism are installed. The steering system of a car consists of a steering wheel, a steering column, a steering gear equipped with a hydraulic booster, and two steering rods connected by ball joints to the steering knuckles of the front suspension.

Steering wheel with driver's airbag, in the steering wheel spokes

Rice. 8.1. Steering column: 1 - steering column shaft; 2 - steering column housing; 3 - a mechanism for adjusting the position of the steering column; 4- ignition switch (lock)

Rice. 8.2. Steering gear: 1.9 - steering rod ends; 2.8 - steering rods; 3, 7 - protective covers; 4, 5 - pipelines; 6 - steering gear

The switches for the sound signal are attached. The steering wheel hub is attached with a nut to the steering column shaft.

The steering column (Fig. 8.1) is crash-proof, adjustable in tilt angle, equipped with energy-absorbing elements that increase passive safety, and an anti-theft device in the ignition switch (lock) that blocks its shaft. The intermediate steering shaft is connected to the steering shaft and the steering column shaft by cardan joints. The steering column also contains controls for headlights, direction indicators, washer and windshield wiper.

The steering gear (Fig. 8.2) is installed in the engine compartment. The steering housing is attached to the front axle cross member.

Video (click to play).

The pressure of the working fluid in the hydraulic booster is created by a vane-type pump, which is installed on the engine bracket and is driven by a poly V-belt from the crankshaft pulley. The bypass valve installed in the pump maintains the required pressure of the working fluid in the power steering, depending on the engine speed.

The power steering reservoir is installed in the engine compartment on a bracket near the battery mounting shelf and is connected by hoses to the power steering pump and to the working fluid return line. If the power steering fails, the ability to control the vehicle remains, but the effort on the steering wheel increases. Steering rods 2 and 8 (see Fig. 8.2) are attached to the steering rack by 6 ball joints. The ends 1 and 9 of the steering rods are attached to the steering knuckles of the front suspension by means of ball joints. The tips are secured against turning on the steering rods with locknuts. The toe-in of the steered wheels is controlled by rotation of the steering rod in the ball joint relative to the tip.

Chevrolet Rezzo. INSPECTION AND INSPECTION OF THE STEERING CONTROL ON THE VEHICLE

Check the condition of the steering regularly as driving safety depends on it.

When inspecting the steering, pay particular attention to the condition of the protective covers and screw connections. Be sure to replace torn, cracked or lost elasticity rubber covers, otherwise water, dust and dirt trapped in the nodes will quickly disable them.

On vehicles equipped with a power steering, check the condition of the hoses and pipes connecting the pump, reservoir and steering gear.

reliability of fastening of the steering mechanism and steering wheel;

- no clearance in the steering rod bushings and ball joints of the steering rod ends;

- reliability of tightening and locking of the bolts fastening the rods to the rail and nuts of the ball joints;

- the absence of jamming and hindrances that impede the turning of the steering wheel.

If you find knocking and jamming, disconnect the steering rods from the telescopic arms pivot arms and repeat the check. If the knocking and jamming continues, remove the steering gear from the vehicle and repair it.

1. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ends of the steering rods. Replace covers that are torn, cracked, or lacking elasticity.

2. By sharply turning the steering wheel in both directions (this should be done by an assistant), visually and audibly check the fastening of the steering mechanism. Moving the mechanism and knocking is not allowed.

As a result of natural wear of the oil seals and the main shaft, the steering rack leaks after 120-150 thousand kilometers. Unfortunately, many car enthusiasts encounter such a nuisance much earlier. Hence the logical question - is it possible to eliminate the problem that has arisen, or is it better to immediately change the unit. Since this malfunction is not uncommon, drivers need to know what to do when it is discovered.

The problem in the form of leaks is characteristic of steering racks, acting in conjunction with a hydraulic booster (power steering). Inside the body of the unit there are 2 oil-filled chambers with pistons, which help to move the shaft under the influence of the pressure generated by the pump. To prevent hydraulic fluid from leaking out, the chambers are closed on the sides with oil seals, inside which the shaft moves. Outside, the ends of the body are covered with rubber covers (anthers) in the form of accordions, through which the ends of the steering rods are passed.

When to pay attention to the steering rack and check for drips:

oil spots appear on the asphalt in the parking lot;
the liquid level in the power steering expansion tank gradually decreases;
the power steering pump emits a hum or other extraneous sounds (depending on the car brand);
the steering wheel feels heavy, as if the amplifier has stopped helping the driver turn the wheels.

Since the body of the rail is a one-piece structure, drips are found only under its ends, covered with anthers.... To see them, just look under the car or into the engine compartment.

The consequences of a hydraulic fluid leak in the first stage are not fatal. After detecting drips, you can continue driving, but only to the garage or car service. Further operation of the car without repair is allowed under two conditions:

The steering wheel is not "heavy", and the power steering pump functions properly, without unnecessary noise.
It is necessary to constantly add fluid to the power steering reservoir.

An important point! A ride like this can end badly. Once in the parking lot, more oil will flow out of the rail, as a result of which the hydraulic pump will fail after the engine is started. Repairing both units will cost twice as much.

There are several common reasons a steering rack leaks:

The main thing is riding with torn rubber covers. Moisture penetrates through the holes and enters the shaft, causing corrosion. The rusty surface becomes rough and begins to rub the lip of the oil seal. The slightest gap is enough to force the oil to burst out.
Failure to comply with the rules for handling the hydraulic booster. Holding the steering wheel for a long time in the extreme position leads to an increase in pressure inside the chambers and pushing the oil seals. If the driver constantly repeats the mistake, oil drips from the rack will inevitably appear.
Topping up with an unsuitable hydraulic fluid or other composition that destroys the rubber of the oil seals.
Long-term operation without changing the fluid that collects debris and small chips. In this case, the gland leaks due to abrasion.
Critical wear of the hinge joints of the steering ends with the shaft.Due to the dangling rod, air and moisture penetrate under the boot and cause corrosion. Further, the process proceeds according to the scenario described in the first paragraph.

Repair of the steering rack is possible, and the cost of the event depends on the degree of wear. In some especially neglected situations, the unit cannot be restored.

Before drawing any conclusions, it is necessary to get to the insides of the assembly and examine the degree of wear of the parts. What to do when oil leaks from the rail are detected:

Place the car on the inspection ditch, fix with the hand brake and remove the front wheels, substituting reliable pads.
Using a puller, press the tie rod ball pins out of the steering knuckle lugs. First unscrew the nuts securing the hinges.
Remove all elements that interfere with the dismantling of the rail. In most passenger cars, you have to remove the battery, air filter and absorber tank.
Unscrew the steering wheel all the way to secure it with the mechanical anti-theft lock. Disassemble the fastening of the steering shaft to the rack.
Drain the power steering system and disconnect the fluid supply pipes from the unit.
Unscrew the steering rack and remove it from the car. On some models it is attached to the body, on others to a subframe.

Note. An experienced craftsman is able to carry out repairs without dismantling the unit from the machine. But if you have taken up the issue on your own, it is better to remove the rail. So it is more convenient to disassemble and replace worn parts.

To get to the oil seals, pull off the rubber boots fixed with retaining rings or metal clamps. After that, the reasons for the leakage of the steering rack become visible. What action to take depends on the technical condition of the insides:

You're in luck if there are no rust marks on the shaft, only drips are visible. It is enough to replace the oil seals, both parts.
The rusty shaft will have to be removed. Small foci of corrosion are removed by grooving and grinding on the machine, after which repair seals are installed, whose inner diameter is selected according to the new shaft size.
It is better to replace a too rusted shaft with a new one, it will come out more reliable and cheaper in the future.
A complete replacement of the rack is carried out after critical wear of the gears is identified, which manifests itself with a knock during driving. An accurate diagnosis is made after disassembling the unit.

To pull out the shaft, you need to unscrew the protective covers (if any) and the gear adjustment washer, having previously marked its position. Then both shafts are removed - the leading steering and rack and pinion. In the last turn, polymer bushings and oil seals are carefully knocked out (held by retaining rings). At the end, the body is thoroughly washed out.

Advice. Before choosing a repair method, show the removed unit to the master - auto mechanic. He will determine the degree of wear on the shaft and tell you how best to proceed in your situation.

If you decide to do all the repair work with your own hands, then it is more correct to choose option number 3 - simply change the shaft and oil seals. Original spare parts will last at least 100 thousand km, provided that the damaged rubber covers are replaced in a timely manner.

The option with groove and grinding is less reliable - people do the work and not always with high quality... After careless processing, the surface of the shaft will remain rough and will immediately begin to abrade the newly installed oil seals. The rail can flow again literally in 20-40 thousand km.

The installation of the unit and the assembly of the vehicle is carried out in the reverse order. Pay particular attention to filling the system with hydraulic fluid, which must also be changed. There should be no air congestion in it. After checking the performance, be sure to visit the service station in order to correct the camber angles - toe-in of the front wheels.

Daewoo Nexia, like every car, must have weak points. One of them is the steering rack.The knock and rumble when driving will not please anyone, especially when it comes to the steering mechanism. The new Nexia steering rack is capable of silently depart no more than 30-40 thousand km, after which the rake starts knocking. Regardless of whether the car is with or without power steering. You should not panic in such cases; instead, you can tighten the steering rack on the Daewoo Nexia, moreover, in two different ways.

With a strong running knock, the rail will only be saved by repair or a complete replacement.

The brace removes the extra clearance between the gear and the rack.

However, if the steering gear is tightened in time, the mileage before the steering overhaul can be increased. For tightening, we need either keys for 26 and 50 or a hammer, a long beard with a bent end and the same key for 26. The first option is for the lazy:

We install the car on a level surface.
We substitute anti-rollbacks under the rear wheels.
We tear off the bolts of the left wheel.
We hang out the left side and remove the wheel.
We turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
For insurance, we install a stand under the lever.

We hang out the wheel of the car and put the stand.

This is how the adjustment process looks on the removed steering gear.

The second option for tightening the rail is more convenient, but also more time consuming. In this case, for adjustment, we will remove the vacuum brake booster.

With the vacuum brake booster removed, access to the rack is opened from above.

If you remove it, then we can more accurately adjust the gap between the rail and the plunger.
To loosen the castellated lock nut, we will use a spanner wrench of 50, and the rest, in terms of parameters and methodology, the algorithm corresponds to the previous one.
In the latter case, after adjustment, we will be able to tighten the locknut with a nominal force of 70 Nm and at the same time hold the adjusting plug with a 26 key. This will improve the accuracy of the adjustment.

For the convenience of tightening, some craftsmen make such a short 50 key, but the problem is that on old Nexias the locknut is often knocked down and the key turns.

If the steering wheel rotates freely on the move, the backlash is within the permissible 10 degrees and when turning the wheels themselves return to the neutral position, the adjustment was successful. Good luck to everyone, smooth roads and smooth turns!

In order for the steering mechanism to work for a long time, you must not turn the steering wheel all the way, and even more so in this position, drive in, for example, on a curb when parking. You also need to change the power steering fluid in a timely manner. These are a few, but important points that you should pay attention to in order to steering rack your car was kept in working condition for as long as possible and did not require investments in its repair.After removing from the car rail goes through a wash, after which it is completely disassembled, all main parts (housing, input shaft, torsion bar, output shaft, pressure mechanism, tubes, etc.) undergo a more thorough cleaning and troubleshooting. Worn parts if necessary steering rack change to new ones or are made. Shafts, if tolerances permit, are restored. All seals: oil seals, bushings, etc. must be replaced with new ones. Further, the rail is assembled and tested at the stand, and only after that, if all indicators are normal, is it put in place.When repairing a steering rack, we always pay attention to the following things:

The steering universal joint should work smoothly, without backlash, not bite or wedge. Otherwise, the input shaft oil seal is damaged in the steering rack. As a result, the power steering fluid flows through the upper oil seal.

The fluid in the hydraulic system must be clean, free of impurities. Otherwise, during the operation of the rubbing parts of the mechanisms, the 'skin' effect appears, as a result of which the rack and the pump valve are clogged and worked out, and the units wear out quickly. When repairing a steering rack, we must change the fluid.

The safety of the driver and other road users depends on the stable operation of components and assemblies, including the steering rack. Therefore, to ignore the arisen "technical illness" means to expose oneself to danger. The best option in this situation would be to seek help from professionals - workshop masters. Consider how the diagnosis and repair of the Chevrolet steering rack is performed in a car service. Image - Steering rack Daewoo Takuma DIY repair

The rack and pinion mechanism includes:

Tie rods and tips.
Gears and toothed bar.
Carter.
Spring system.
Bearings.
Limiters.

We can say that the rack consists of 3 parts: the power steering gearbox, the steering rod and the hinges.

Please note that the design of the rack and pinion may differ depending on the vehicle manufacturer.

There are 3 types of rack and pinion mechanisms:

Mechanical construction.
Hydraulic device.
Electric rail.

Their difference lies in the principle of action.

Signs of failure of the rail include:

A knock that can be superficial or internal.
Backlash.
When driving on a bad road, the vibration of the steering wheel is felt.
The steering wheel does not rotate well or does not fit into place.
The hum of the mechanism in question.

Signs of breakage include a rack and pinion leak when the rubber seals are worn out.

The most common reasons for the failure of such an important node can be:

careless driving;
hitting a wheel in a hole when the car is moving at high speed;
regular car operation on uneven roads;
constant collisions with obstacles.

The purpose of diagnostic work is to identify malfunctions in order to make a further decision about the possibility of repairing the Chevrolet steering rack or the need to replace it.

Diagnostic tasks include:

Determination of the source of the backlash.
Identifying the reasons for the difficulty in driving a vehicle.
Search for defects that lead to leakage of technical fluid from the system of the hydraulic power steering and steering gear.

Service station specialists use two methods of vehicle inspection in their work:

External inspection of the car.
Instrumental inspection of the car.

Now in more detail about each of the above methods.

Service station experts check the play in the handpieces by touch by rotating the steering wheel. Wiggling occurs in different planes. Inspection can be carried out using jacks or placing the vehicle on a lift.

This test method involves the use of special diagnostic tools. The main instrument for determining the backlash is considered to be a backlash dynamometer.

Specialists of the service center pay attention to the size of the clearances in the bearings and joints of the steering rods.

If the gap is large and causes an increase in backlash, and repair is not possible, the workshop technicians recommend a complete replacement.

The task of adjusting the rack is to eliminate knocking, backlash and restore ease of control of the machine. Service station technicians place the car on a pit or overpass by setting the wheels of the car in the "straight ahead" direction.

Adjustment is carried out by tightening the adjusting screw. It is located in the steering end cover.

Experts measure the backlash using a special device - a backlash meter. Service station masters adhere to the established GOST.

After completing the work, the craftsmen test the car in motion, performing various maneuvers. If the severity in the control is not felt, it means that the work was done with high quality, the problem has been eliminated.

Tightening the rail screw is carried out until the problem is completely eliminated.

It is important to carry out repairs with clean hands in order to avoid getting dirt and sand on the parts, so as not to spoil the hydraulic booster and the rail in the next few days.

When repairing the rail, pay attention to the correct tightening of the boot clamps.

In contrast to the garage conditions at the service station, there are all the possibilities necessary for a high-quality repair.This is a well-equipped workplace. Availability of special hoists and tools.

The service center technicians use special devices to identify malfunctions. They adhere to generally accepted repair standards and comply with GOSTs.

The main thing is that the work on technical treatment is carried out by highly qualified masters who come into contact with this problem every day.

The steering rack is a capricious mechanism, the failure of which can lead to an unusual situation on the road.

Therefore, it is advisable to carry out repairs at a service station. Contacting a specialized center is a guarantee of high-quality technical treatment of a problem node.

All the advice of most motorists is identical with the opinion of experts. Repair work on the steering rack must be carried out in specialized centers.

This is a guarantee of quality repairs, therefore, the safety of the driver and other road users.

Elimination of the rail problem is possible with the use of special tools and diagnostic tools. They are fully equipped with service stations.

In winter, experts recommend warming up the power unit and not twisting the steering wheel, immediately trying to leave the parking lot. It is necessary in place to smoothly turn the steering wheel several times to warm up the oil.

Motorists are advised to pay more attention to the condition of the anthers.

In order for the mechanism to work efficiently and for a long time, you should not hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than five seconds.

If you have a Chevrolet Rezzo, Chevrolet Cruze or other model steering rack and there are any signs of a rack malfunction, our car service technicians will help you diagnose and repair any Chevrolet steering rack.

The possibility of repairing the Daewoo Takuma steering rack can be assessed at our stations at the time of diagnosis. If the steering rack housing is intact (no cracks) and upon opening, the shaft will also be intact, then repair of the Daewoo Tacuma steering rack will most likely be possible.

Service station on Grazhdanka - 603-55-05, from 10 to 20, no days off.
Service station in Kupchino - 245-33-15, from 10 to 20, no days off.
WhatAapp / Viber: 8-911-766-42-33

Repair of the Daewoo Takuma steering rack takes 1 to 2 days. There are, of course, exceptions, but quite rarely. If the diagnostics show that the problem is in the rail, and not in the power steering pump, then we remove the rail and repair it at our stations. Also, we can repair the power steering and electric power steering.

After repairing the rail, you will definitely need to do the wheel alignment. If desired, we can also change the tie rods and steering tips. After installing the handled steering rack, we will flush the steering system and fill the power steering tank with new fluid.

When to make repairs:
- a knock appeared in the steering rack;
- the steering wheel has become tight and turns with difficulty;
- smudges on the steering rack visible in the parking lot;
- hum in the power steering;
- incorrect return of the steering wheel to its original position;
- when turning the steering wheel, the wheels remain in their original position.

Work guarantee - 3-6 months

Diagnostics during repairs with us is free!

If the car is not in motion, we can send a tow truck.

Not so long ago, car manufacturers allowed the repair of mechanisms, sold original parts and developed restoration technologies. However, later the shop was closed, citing a security threat. Although no fundamental changes have been made to the design and manufacturing technology of the steering racks. Fortunately, there is still an alternative to an expensive replacement of the assembly due to its leaks or knocks. With a qualified approach, the rails are successfully repaired without any security risk.

Around 2005, almost all automakers abruptly changed their policy - steering racks were declared non-repairable. The sale of original spare parts and access to information on the technology for restoring units was closed. However, this did not put an end to the repair industry.

For most cars, steering gears are made by large third-party manufacturers such as ZF. Therefore, original spare parts and technical information remained available. In addition, no one canceled the unification. Often, spare parts from other cars from the early 2000s are suitable for fresh models of one automaker. In addition, there are manufacturers specializing in the same oil seals and bushings. According to their catalogs, it is easy to find a spare part of the required type and size - nominal or repair. So for now, you can fix almost any rail.

The real scourge of all steering rack and pinion gears is corrosion. The main reason for this is unqualified service. Often, when replacing steering rods, servicemen fix their anthers with universal plastic clamps - this is much easier than tormenting with the installation of standard, metal ones. But the plastic clamp, no matter how tightened, does not completely seal the boot, which is critical for the health of the mechanism.

During the operation of the rack, the anthers of the steering rods are alternately compressed and unclenched, due to which air movement occurs inside the unit. Without such ventilation, each boot will become excessively deformed, and this is fraught with damage. For air circulation, most manufacturers make various types of grooves on the toothed rack. If plastic clamps are installed, one of the anthers draws in warm air from the engine compartment, and the other releases it back. When passing through the steering gear, the air actively cools down (after all, the unit is on a stretcher close to the ground) - condensation forms. Six months is enough for the rail to begin to rust.

Corrosion of the steering shaft makes itself felt earlier on power steering gears. Due to work on a rough surface, oil seals begin to wear out quickly and leak. On electromechanical power steering racks, it is more difficult to recognize the onset of the disease. When it comes to tangible malfunctions - knocks and backlash, corrosion will already have time to cause irreparable damage to the gear rack. In advanced cases, it affects teeth that cannot be repaired. The teeth have a complex profile and high surface hardening, and it is almost impossible to restore them correctly after any mechanical treatment.

Corrosion of the remaining surfaces of the laths is fought by three methods: grinding, grinding under the repair diameter and turning. Grinding is done when the rust is superficial and the total reduction in the diameter of the rail does not exceed 0.1 mm. In this case, spare parts (oil seals and support bush) of nominal size are used. With such an increase in the gap, there will be no leaks and knocking.

In case of deeper corrosion, it is permissible to painlessly grind the gear rack by no more than 0.5 mm. This is the recommendation of most manufacturers. These parts are usually hardened to a depth of about 1.5 mm. After all, they must operate reliably under oil pressures of up to 150 bar. With such a significant reduction in diameter, replacement parts are used. Oil seals are selected from catalogs, and sometimes bushings have to be made.

And here is a curious technology for eradicating more severe rust. The toothed rack is grinded and, using a special compound, a stainless steel pipe is pressed in - this material has sufficient strength. Then the lath is ground again and polished to the nominal diameter. The technology is complex and has many pitfalls.

It happens that, due to design features, the input steering shaft of the rack corrodes. Typically, the shaft is at an angle of about 45 degrees, and a cup-like shape is formed where it passes through the motor shield. On many cars, water from the street constantly gets into it, because of which the shaft begins to rust. Corrosion reaches the packing, causing premature wear. The hydraulic rails will announce this with a leak, and the electromechanical ones are again silent to the last.The treatment is similar: the shaft is machined and a repair oil seal is selected for the new diameter. The depth of processing is not of fundamental importance, because metal with special mechanical properties is not used for the manufacture of this part. However, rarely when more than 1 mm is removed.

CHEVROLET
- REZZO 2005-2018
  - 1.6
  - 2.0
  - TACUMA 2005-2018
    - 1.6
    - 2.0
    - DAEWOO
      - REZZO (KLAU) 2001-2018
        1.8
        
        2.0
        
        The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
        
        All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
        
        To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
        
        there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
        
        increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
        
        there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
        
        there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
        
        power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
        
        If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
        
        So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
        First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
        
        The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
        
        toothed shaft;
        
        steering rack support sleeve;
        
        spool mechanism.
        
        Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
        
        Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
        
        Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
        
        Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
        
        Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
        How to remove the steering rack.
        
        Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
        
        Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
        
        Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
        
        Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
        
        Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
        
        It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
        
        Unscrew the rack from the steering rods using a special flat-head screwdriver.
        
        Unscrew the bottom plastic gear shaft plug.
        
        Unscrew the lock nut.
        
        Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
        
        Pull out the lower oil seal.
        
        Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
        
        Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
        
        Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
        
        Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
        
        Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
        
        Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
        
        Place the rail into the housing.
        
        Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
        
        Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
        
        Place the lower oil seal on the toothed shaft.
        
        Place the steering rack in the middle position.
        
        Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
        
        Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
        
        Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
        
        Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
        
        Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
        Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
        
        If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.