Steering rack izh 2717 DIY repair

In detail: steering rack Izh 2717 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We remove the steering gear (see. "Removing the steering gear" ).

Clamp the steering box in a vice with soft metal jaw pads. We remove both protective covers of the rail (see. "Replacing the cover of the rail" )

With a chisel we bend the edges of the lock washer of the left steering rod.

Using the “30” key, turn off the left rod, holding the rail by the flats with the “22” key.

Remove the left steering rod and lock washer.

Similarly, we remove the right steering rod (we hold the rail against turning with a 22 key on the flats at its left end).

Using the "41" head, unscrew the lock nut of the stop nut.

Using a square “9”, unscrew the rail stop nut.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry off the rubber protective cap.

With a spanner wrench "24" we unscrew the bearing nut.

... and remove it from the shank of the gear.

We take out the gear assembly with a ball bearing from the crankcase.

Unclench the retaining ring with pliers and remove it.

Considering that the bearing is removed only for replacement.

... the gear can be knocked out of the bearing by placing it on the vise jaws without pinching the gear.

Remove the bearing from the gear shank.

We take out the rack from the steering gear housing.

Squeezing the retaining ring of the plastic bushing of the rack with pliers, we remove it from the groove of the steering gear housing.

With a rod 450-500 mm long, we knock out the rail bushing from the crankcase.

... and take it out together with the rubber ring.

We remove the needle bearing of the gear wheel only for replacement. To extract it.

... with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, we drill three holes in the steering box housing opposite the bearing installation site.

Video (click to play).

... and through these holes we knock out the bearing, striking the thin rod.

We take out the needle bearing.

The holes in the wall of the steering box housing can be sealed with a cold welding agent.

We wash and inspect the parts of the steering mechanism, damaged ones - we replace them, while the plastic sleeve with a rubber ring must be replaced. The ball and needle bearings must rotate without seizing, and the protective sleeves and cap must be free from cracks or breaks. Backlash and traces of corrosion in the ball joints of the steering rods are not allowed.

... with a soft metal drift, press in a new needle bearing.

Press the sleeve with the rubber ring through a suitable length of pipe.

We support the gear on the vise jaw pads made of soft metal or a wooden block.

With a suitable piece of pipe, press the ball bearing onto the shank of the gear, striking only on its inner ring. Having liberally lubricated the rack teeth, gears and bearings with PIOL-1 grease, we assemble the assembly in the reverse order. Before installing the protective cap on the gear shank.

... drive the pinion bearing nut at four points.

... and fill the cavity above the nut with UNIOL-1 grease. Before installing on the car, adjust the steering mechanism (see. "Adjusting the steering gear" ).

The entire steering mechanism should work like a clock. When driving on the road, an unmanageable car will be an unaffordable luxury. How many people have suffered from the fact that a careless driver did not check the parts of his car, did not replace them in time, or replaced them with low-quality ones. If you do not want to become the culprit of an accident, then it is better to inspect your car for a malfunction more often and more thoroughly.

In order to transmit rotational movements from the steering wheel to the ordinary wheels of a car, you need some kind of mechanism that would repeat everything that the driver does and bring it out in the right direction. In cars, this role is played by the steering gear.But, without the power steering, the steering ratio will be 15: 1, which means that the steering wheel will have to be twisted pretty much in order to turn. Previously, there were no amplifiers, so the IZH 2126 is not equipped with them. Now is not about that. Let's talk about how to remove the steering gear for repair.

1. We fix the steering box housing in soft pieces.
2. Bend the edge of the left steering lock washer.
3. Turn off the steering rod.

4. We remove it together with the washer.
5. Do the same with the right steering wheel.
6. Unscrew the stop lock nut and take it out.

7. Unscrew a similar rack nut.
8. We take out the stop spring together with the stop.
9. We touch the protective cap and remove it.

10. Unscrew the bearing nut.
11. Delete it.
12. Remove the gear and bearing from the crankcase.

13. Loosen the retaining ring and remove.
14. Knock out the gear from the bearing.
15. We take out the bearing from the shank.

16. We take out the rack from the crankcase.
17. Using pliers, remove the bushing retaining ring.
18. Knock out the sleeve.

19. We drill holes for knocking out the needle bearing and take it out.

The disassembly of the IZH 2126 steering mechanism has been completed, and you can start repairing it. Holes when installing the same part can be filled with special means such as "cold welding". Recall that in the previous article we talked about how to change the oil in an Izh 2126 engine with our own hands.

Steering: 1 - tie rod tip; 2 - lock nut; 3 - steering rod; 4 - lower cardan joint; 5 - protective cap; 6 - steering gear housing; 7 - protective cover; 8 - rubber ring; 9 - rack bushing; 10 - gear wheel; 11 - ball bearing; 12 - rail; 13 - needle bearing; 14 - signal switch cover; 15 - steering wheel; 16 - steering column, 17 - rubber gasket; 18 - clamp; 19 - lock nut; 20 - rail stop nut; 21 - stop spring; 22 - rail stop

Steering - safety (steering shaft with two cardan joints). The steering mechanism is of the "pinion-rack" type with steering rods.

The steering housing is a die-cast aluminum alloy attached to a subframe in the engine compartment. A helical drive gear is installed in the crankcase and

toothed rack, which are in constant mesh. The front bearing of the drive gear (at the end) is needle, the rear (closer to the steering shaft) is ball. The gear is fixed from axial movement through a ball bearing: its inner ring is held on the gear shank by a retaining ring, and the outer ring is pressed by a nut against the end of the bearing housing in the steering gear housing. The nut is covered with a protective cover (boot) put on the drive gear shank.

The right (cylindrical) part of the rack rests on a plastic sleeve in the steering gear housing, and the left (toothed) part is pressed against the drive gear by a spring through a stop. The spring, in turn, is compressed by an adjusting nut with a locknut.

Non-separable ball joints of the steering rods are screwed into the ends of the rack. The hinge housings also serve as limiters of the rack travel, resting against the steering gear housing during its maximum movements to the right and left. When a backlash occurs in the ball joints, the steering rods are completely replaced. Places of exit of the rack from the crankcase are protected by corrugated rubber covers.

Lugs are screwed onto the rods from the outer ends, the ball pins of which are fixed by their conical surfaces in the levers of the steering knuckles. Threaded connections of the lugs with rods are fixed with lock nuts. By rotating the steering rods in the threads of the tips, the angle of convergence of the steered wheels of the cars is regulated. In order not to damage the protective covers of the steering rods, it is recommended to lubricate the points where the rods exit from the covers with grease.

The steering shaft is a composite, three-link, with two cardan joints and an elastic coupling. The upper (tubular) part of the shaft is supported by two radial ball bearings installed in the bracket tube.The steering wheel is secured with a nut on the tapered splines of the upper end of the shaft.

FIOL-1 (approximately 20-30 g for the entire mechanism) is used to lubricate the gear, rack and gear bearings, and the cavity above the gear bearing nut (under the boot) is filled with UNIOL-1 grease.

In order to transmit rotational movements from the steering wheel to the ordinary wheels of a car, you need some kind of mechanism that would repeat everything the driver does and bring it out in the right direction. In cars, this role is played by the steering gear. But, without the power steering, the steering ratio will be 15: 1, which means that the steering wheel will have to be twisted pretty much in order to turn. Previously, there were no amplifiers, so the IZH 2126 is not equipped with them. Now is not about that. Let's talk about how to remove the steering gear for repair.

1. We fix the steering box housing in soft pieces.
2. Bend the edge of the left steering lock washer.
3. Turn off the steering rod.

4. We remove it together with the washer.
5. Do the same with the right steering wheel.
6. Unscrew the stop lock nut and take it out.

7. Unscrew a similar rack nut.
8. We take out the stop spring together with the stop.
9. We touch the protective cap and remove it.

10. Unscrew the bearing nut.
11. Delete it.
12. Remove the gear and bearing from the crankcase.

13. Loosen the retaining ring and remove.
14. Knock out the gear from the bearing.
15. We take out the bearing from the shank.

16. We take out the rack from the crankcase.
17. Using pliers, remove the bushing retaining ring.
18. Knock out the sleeve.

19. We drill holes for knocking out the needle bearing and take it out.

Dismantling of the IZH 2126 steering mechanism is completed, you can start repairing. It is possible to hammer holes when installing the same part with special means such as "cold welding". Recall that in the previous article we talked about how to change the oil in an Izh 2126 engine with our own hands.

Repairing a steering rack or power steering gear, as it is also called, is an important matter - you need to be able to do it yourself. Why? Because if there is a malfunction of the steering rack, then there is a failure of the steering, and this can turn into a disaster on the road. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to repair a steering rack.

Since the rail is the part that connects the steering wheel to the wheels, it also feels the unevenness of the roads, impacts when cornering. Accordingly, the steering rack wears out quite a bit and needs proper care.

there was a knock in the rail, a noticeable beat in the steering wheel;
the steering wheel starts to spin harder;
when the steering wheel was rotated, the play of the steering rack began to be felt;
power steering fluid began to leak from the steering column;
unusual sounds appeared when the power steering was working.

Basically, repairing a steering rack on a VAZ 21099 is not much different from repairing a steering rack on a BMW 3 (E46), for example. The principle of operation is the same, but there are some differences in the design. I must admit that the work is quite difficult - before starting it, you need to know the steering rack device.

A steering rack repair kit will come in handy, consisting of oil seals, O-rings, bushings, as well as a corrugation, a gear shaft bearing and a tube of grease. In the tool box you should have: a special octagonal wrench, bearing removers and pliers for mounting a circlip. Of course, a standard set of wrenches should also be at hand. Do-it-yourself steering rack repair is done on an overpass or inspection ditch.

This happens in three stages - 1) removal of the steering rack, disassembly / cleaning of parts; 2) replacement of unusable parts with new ones; 3) check the steering rack gear shaft.

Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew the tie rods from the steering rack
Unscrew the lower gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the circlip and drive out the shaft.
Remove the lower oil seal
Remove the retaining pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Turn the retaining plug, pull out the retaining ring by the wire.
Pull out the steering rack on the right side, remove the oil seal with a plastic bushing from it.
Pull out the oil seal, plug, remove the spring, the clamping mechanism.

Apply special grease and place the inner oil seal (spring down).
Place the rail in the housing.
Put the bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate all parts, install the oil seal.
Install the plug, remembering to fix it with wire.
Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
Set the steering rack to the middle position and insert the toothed shaft into place (after having lubricated it).
Install the upper oil seal, install the circlip.
Tighten the lower lock nut, as well as the bearing, plug.
Install and tighten the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug.

Further, the installation proceeds in the reverse order.

As seen, DIY steering rack repair it is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with repairs in general terms. By the way, mechanical and hydraulic steering racks, which are much more common than their modern counterpart, the electronic steering rack, are subject to self-repair. The latter needs a special setting, which is better to entrust to professionals.

The steering rack in the car plays an important role. She is almost the main responsible element in the issue of safety when driving.

The main function of the steering rack of any car is to organize the rotation of the car. The rack may be present in those vehicles where there is both power steering, and in those where it is not. Since it is the main link between the steering wheel and the wheels, then, of course, the safety of movement in a car depends on its condition. Therefore, the diagnosis of the steering rack must be approached most responsibly, as well as its repair.

It is known that virtually all components and assemblies are subject to wear in a vehicle. In this, a design such as a steering rack is not inferior. But how to understand that it has begun to fail on your car or has already become a carrier of significant malfunctions?

There are several signs that indicate a problem in this area, for example:

1. The appearance of a characteristic knock, which is transmitted even through the steering wheel.

2. Difficulty turning the steering wheel, you have to make great efforts to make a turn.

3. The emergence of extraneous noise and sounds in the power steering pump.

4. The appearance of a pronounced backlash, which is especially evident at the moment of turning.

5. The power steering began to leak.

The occurrence of one of these signs indicates that your car needs emergency assistance, specifically, the steering rack needs to be repaired.

In order, for example, to replace the anthers and oil seals, it is necessary, first of all, to remove it. As you know, the steering rack is attached to the car body with three bolts. It will not be possible to unscrew them with a simple wrench; an extension cord is definitely needed to increase the force.

Next, we loosen the spline fasteners of the steering universal joint. And the bolt, which directly tightens the spline connection, is completely unscrewed. Next, we remove the steering rack through the right wheel arch. To make this procedure not difficult, we first install the car on jacks on both sides and remove the front wheels. For ease of removal in the process, it is necessary to twist the rail and raise its left side.

In order to remove the anthers, you need to bend the antennae at the lock nut and unscrew the steering rod using two keys. After this procedure, we go to unscrewing the tubes from the rail and the regulator, after which we dismantle the regulator body with a spanner wrench, which is fixed with two castellated bolts.

Now comes the most important thing. Before finally removing the body, it is advisable to combine all the marks on the steering bipod, plastic cover and body, fix the gear rack in this position and fix it forever in your memory.

After all the bolts have already been unscrewed, you can pull the regulator towards you and press the toothed rack downward. This procedure allows you to remove the steering rack very quickly and easily.

Further, it is necessary to remove the sealed nut from the end of the structure. To unscrew it, you will have to clamp the rail itself in a vice, since it is tightened quite well. After unscrewing it by lightly tapping it through the wood with a hammer, we knock out the rail. Together with it, an oil seal is knocked out, which needs to be replaced. With the help of an extension cord, carefully and gently, remove it from the side of the regulator.

Installing new oil seals is a fairly straightforward procedure. To do this, first grease the rail well with oil, then put on the inner oil seal and, with a slight movement of the hammer, hammer the rail back until it stops. The oil seal itself and the inside of the cylinder are best lubricated with plenty of oil.

The assembly of the steering rack is carried out in the reverse order. The main thing is not to forget to lubricate the bearing of the regulator with lithol and to lock such a connection as a rail-thrust, and also when installing the rail in place, be sure to align the previously installed marks on the bipod and splines.

it is necessary at least periodically to look under the typewriter.

Operation of the steering shaft through the intermediate support.

Causes of knocking on the steering rack. Steering diagnostics. How to adjust and properly tighten the steering rack.

For beginners about knocking on the steering rack and related parts.

the work of the steering rack izh ode.

The steering rack is installed on the car Moskvich 2140 412 from this alone ++++.

We remove the steering gear (see. "Removing the steering gear" ).

Clamp the steering box in a vice with soft metal jaw pads. We remove both protective covers of the rail (see. "Replacing the cover of the rail" )

With a chisel we bend the edges of the lock washer of the left steering rod.

Using the “30” key, turn off the left rod, holding the rail by the flats with the “22” key.

Remove the left steering rod and lock washer.

Similarly, we remove the right steering rod (we hold the rail from turning with a 22 key on the flats at its left end).

Using the "41" head, unscrew the lock nut of the stop nut.

Using a square “9”, unscrew the rail stop nut.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry off the rubber protective cap.

With a spanner wrench "24" we unscrew the bearing nut.

... and remove it from the shank of the gear.

We take out the gear assembly with a ball bearing from the crankcase.

Unclench the retaining ring with pliers and remove it.

Considering that the bearing is removed only for replacement.

... the gear can be knocked out of the bearing by placing it on the vise jaws without pinching the gear.

Remove the bearing from the gear shank.

We take out the rack from the steering gear housing.

Squeezing the retaining ring of the plastic bushing of the rack with pliers, we remove it from the groove of the steering gear housing.

With a rod 450-500 mm long, we knock out the rail bushing from the crankcase.

... and take it out together with the rubber ring.

We remove the needle bearing of the gear wheel only for replacement. To extract it.

... with a drill with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm, we drill three holes in the steering box housing opposite the bearing installation site.

... and through these holes we knock out the bearing, striking the thin rod.

We take out the needle bearing.

The holes in the wall of the steering box housing can be sealed with a cold welding agent.

... with a soft metal drift, press in a new needle bearing.

Press the sleeve with the rubber ring through a suitable length of pipe.

We support the gear on the vise jaw pads made of soft metal or a wooden block.

Press a ball bearing onto the shank of the gear with a suitable piece of pipe, striking only on its inner ring. Having liberally lubricated the rack teeth, gears and bearings with PIOL-1 grease, we assemble the assembly in the reverse order. Before installing the protective cap on the gear shank.

... drive the pinion bearing nut at four points.

... and fill the cavity above the nut with UNIOL-1 grease. Before installing on the car, adjust the steering mechanism (see. "Adjusting the steering gear" ).

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The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.

All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.

To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:

there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.

The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:

toothed shaft;
steering rack support sleeve;
spool mechanism.

Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:

Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.

Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, etc.).
How to remove the steering rack.

Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
Remove the steering rack heat shield.
Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.

It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to install the anthers with perfect tightness.

Unscrew the rack from the tie rods using a special flat head screwdriver.
Unscrew the lower plastic gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
Pull out the lower oil seal.
Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.

Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).

Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
Place the rail into the housing.
Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
Place the lower oil seal on the toothed shaft.
Place the steering rack in the middle position.
Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.

Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.

If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.

Message fast »11 Mar 2007 13:20The most common "push" to the bulkhead of the steering rack is knocking.
The most likely cause in this case is wear on the guide bush at the right end of the rack (as viewed from the cab). It is a metal bushing outside, covered with a thick layer of rubber, pressed into the steering rack housing. And the wear of the supporting “hooves” that can be tightened by screwing in the adjusting screw (but this does not save for long).The repair kits were our first surprise! By a lucky coincidence, we had two of them - they have the same packaging! The same manufacturer! The same part numbers are listed on the back of the packages. BUT the contents of the repair kits turned out to be slightly different. Image - Steering rack izh 2717 DIY repair

(see photo.)
Note that the cost of such a repair kit is not small and ranges from 450 to 500 rubles!

And so we remove the steering rack from the car. Contrary to the description in the repair book M2141 (from the publishing house ZaRulem), you do not need to extrude the fingers of the steering tips from the steering knuckles and remove everything assembled for this! It is enough to unscrew the two bolts securing the steering rods to the steering rack (this will not change the wheel alignment during assembly).

To remove the steering rack, you need to disconnect the steering rods (as described above), unscrew and remove the bolt of the lowest universal joint under the steering column at the attachment point of the steering propeller shaft and the splined shaft of the steering rack, and finally unscrew the four bolts of the steering rack itself. The most problematic, as a rule, is the bolt that is located under the vacuum brake booster (it is very difficult to reach it). Better if you do it with an assistant!

The next problem you may face when disassembling the rail. Everything is simple there, but when you knock the rail out of the case (by squeezing out the back cover) it may not be knocked out! since there is a rubber damper (bump stop) inside and if the cover sits there tightly (or, as in our case, someone put it on a sealant) when trying to knock out the rail - it will just spring! Therefore, we had to squeeze it out with a hydraulic jack.

You will also need a long, thin bushing to remove the old bushing. It is located deep in the housing of the steering rack itself (but you can get close to it). In this case, we used a shock absorber rod as a bushing.

When reassembling, pack a lot of grease on the “working” surfaces.
When you install the boot, make sure that it covers the hole at the opposite end of the rail. At the same time, make sure that the anther belt is NOT directly above this hole - because air comes out through it and if it is plugged it will create unnecessary resistance to the movement of the rail.

The knock of the steering rack always causes negative emotions in the owners of the Peugeot 405. Especially the manifestation of negativity comes after the owner finds out how much this repair of the Peugeot 405 steering rack costs from the officials.
And so, having weighed all the pros and cons, it was decided to try to eliminate this ailment with our own hands. There is time, hands grow from the right places - there are all conditions =)
After talking with the knowledgeable, I found out that either the support sleeve on the left can knock in my rail, or the repair kit on the right is rubbing off. I did not find any backlash on the left side, but on the right it was pretty much backlash! There is reason to believe that it is possible to carve the bushing out of secondary plastic.
So it was decided to do so.
First you need to remove the wheels and put the car on stands. Think in advance that the rail will have to be reached from the left side in the direction of the car. Park so that nothing gets in the way

Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the power steering reservoir

Then you need to screw the nut on the steering rod and on the steering tip

This procedure can be performed using a special puller, but if this is not at hand, we resort to using a simple hammer.

We recommend preliminarily treating all loosening parts with a WD-shear.

Next, we will work in the cabin: before unscrewing the cross-piece, make marks so that it is easier to put the steering wheel straight and the wheels straight in place later.

Now carefully unscrew the hydraulic pipes

For more convenient work, we make keys of smaller sizes

Farther. He unscrewed and took out the cross from the bottom. There was no need to mark here: time marked itself, everything is rusty, where there are no slots.

In 405-ke, gear shift rods are attached to the steering rack. I do not advise knocking them down with a hammer and a guide, it is better to torment them with a key for 16.

We unscrew the steering rack itself

To remove the steering rack, you will have to unscrew this bracket

Now we take out the steering rack

Let's start disassembling the steering rack of the Peugeot 405. You may need a gas wrench to remove the steering tip.

With a chisel we carefully mark the tube of the hydraulic nose

Now remove the steering rod boot. It is more difficult with the "cap" - I had to use the chisel again. We unscrew the steering rods.

We unscrew and take out the support sleeve. Here you have to be careful, there is a spring, if it fires, you will search all over the garage to look for.

We remove the body of the worm. In order not to break anything, I had to try. The best fit was a montage.

Everything was thoroughly cleaned, washed and folded into a bag.I'll go to the turner tomorrow. Let's try to carve a bushing out of secondary plastic. There is no point in buying a repair kit, because it is enough for a short time.

Use a suitable mandrel to knock out the old sleeve.

The photo is bad, but the reason for the knock is visible: the copper-graphite bushing has worn out from old age.

These bushings were made of second-grade plastic for me: one is really big (it hangs on the shaft), and the second is too small. I had to pick up a file and then work with a little knife. I immediately grinded the outer diameter to insert the sleeve into the rack body. And then, having inserted it, processed the inner diameter a little.

Here you go. Now you can thoroughly lubricate everything with lithol (salidol can eventually roll up and stand in one place) and collect. Since I plan to ride a typewriter happily ever after, I changed all the rods, tips and anthers.

Failure of the steering rack is a nightmare for any car owner. After all, the elimination of this defect requires a serious application of hands and funds, as well as the need to remain for some time without your "iron horse". Therefore, in order to minimize the consequences, you need to be able to recognize the signs of impending repairs and have at least a general idea of possible rail breakdowns. In addition, it is necessary to find out how expedient it is to repair the steering rack with your own hands, and also to reveal the aspect of preventive measures.

A steering rack is a power unit in the design of the steering mechanism, designed to transfer power from the steering wheel to the wheels (steered). It is through the steering rack that the process of driving is carried out by turning the guide wheels.

Reiki is divided into 3 categories:

Mechanical;
Hydraulic;
Electrical.

Faults can be different. However, to detect them, you do not need to have special knowledge - it is enough just to periodically inspect this node. In addition, you should know the reasons why such defects may occur.

Backlash on the steering wheel and the occurrence of sounds - if this occurs when the power unit is muffled in the process of actively turning the steering wheel. In such a situation, the problem may lie in the weakened stop of the spool, as well as in insufficient indicators of the elasticity of the torsion.

Backlash - the reasons for this defect are varied. It can manifest itself as a result of excessive wear of the silent blocks that fix the rail, a change in the angle of contact of the screw and teeth due to the curvature of the crankcase or shaft, damage (mechanical) or stroke (vertical) of the screw bearing. To determine the reasons, it is required to diagnose the condition of the steering rack bush (crack), the rod joints, and also the central tooth.

Severity when turning the steering wheel usually manifests itself in the case of acidification of the cardan.

A knock is the most common symptom. Moreover, the sources of such a knock in the rail are different. Typically, sound occurs when:

vertical travel of the shaft in the bearing;
development of the resource of hinges and crankcase;
the limiting resource of the bearings of the screw, sleeve or central tooth;
curvature of the crankcase or shaft, which leads to an incorrect angle of contact between the screw and teeth;
development of the resource of silent blocks;
weakening the fixing of the rail;
backlash violations.

Heavy steering wheel travel in extreme positions - this, along with insufficient return and squeak, is observed in the case of an overtightened sleeve, as well as curvature of the crankcase or shaft.

Leak - it occurs in the event of corrosion on the shaft or wear of the stuffing box. In addition, leakage occurs when the pipes (outlet or delivery) of the cylinder are depressurized.

Development of the resource of the sleeve and its crankcase;
Oil seal leaking on the shaft;
Excessive crankcase wear on the distributor;
Development of the resource of the central tooth.

The sleeve itself is necessary to securely clamp the teeth and shaft, as well as to secure the shaft itself. The bushing is seated on a special spring, which provides the necessary clamping force, as well as control over the position of the teeth. Such a defect is considered to be quite frequent, especially in those rails where the sleeve is made of plastic.As a result, the wear of the bushing and cylinder walls is evident, which leads to vertical movement of the rack and, as a result, the occurrence of knocking and backlash. To determine such a malfunction, it is enough to drive onto an uneven road and swing the steering wheel to the sides in motion, and then repeat this on a standing car. In addition, bushing wear will manifest itself in the transmission of shocks to the handlebars when driving on rough roads.In this case, it is necessary to repair the rail - a simple tightening of the sleeve will do nothing.The specified oil seal is located on the rack shaft. A feature of such a defect is the late detection of a leak, because there is no pressure on the oil seal. Signs of an oil seal leak are - hum when the steering wheel rotates, as well as a decrease in the level of fluid poured into the hydraulic booster reservoir. In this case, an urgent need to inspect the rail, since not only the oil seal can leak. Leaks can also occur due to defective clamps, pump, nozzles, hoses, etc. The likelihood of an oil seal leak is largely determined by the material from which it is made - during severe frosts, some of them crack.This defect begins to manifest itself gradually - in a slight bite of the steering wheel on a cold car. In addition, the steering wheel becomes more and more tight, and its return to the zero zone will be incomplete.The reason is in the design of the rings that rotate with the crankcase shaft. Over time, they form small grooves on the surface of the crankcase distributor and begin to leak oil. This leads to a loss of pressure and weight in the steering wheel.The appearance of grooves is due to the addition of metal particles to the fluoroplastic from which the rings are made, which rub against the shaft. It is noteworthy that for most Japanese models, such problems are not typical, since rubber gaskets are installed under the rings.