Steering rack largus DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself largus steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The steering gear is removed for replacement or repair, to replace steering rods or damaged protective covers. However, keep in mind that the steering gear is the most important element in ensuring road safety - A poor-quality repair of the mechanism can lead to serious consequences, therefore, if necessary, repair it only in a specialized workshop or replace it with a new one.

You will need: keys "10", "17", "19", TOVX TZO, socket "18", ball joint remover, flat-blade screwdriver.

1. Place the vehicle on a viewing ditch (or on a lift) and brake with the parking brake.
2. Set the steering wheel to the straight-ahead position of the vehicle.
3. In the passenger compartment, under the dashboard, unscrew the nut.

4. . and remove from the hole the bolt of the clamping connection of the intermediate shaft with the pinion shaft of the steering mechanism.

5. Slide the universal joint yoke off the pinion shaft end.

6. Loosen the front wheel bolts.
7. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on the supports.
8. Remove the left front wheel.
9. Remove the center and left engine mudguards (see Removing and installing engine mudguards).
10. Remove the bolt securing the power steering pipe to the subframe.

eleven. . and remove the bolt from the hole

12. Unscrew the two front ones.

thirteen. . and one rear bolt for attaching the steering box thermal shield.

14. Remove the wire harness from the holder on the thermal shield.

16. Remove the two bolts securing the rear of the pipeline bracket. it supports the suspension of the power unit.

18. Carefully bend the power steering hose holder forward with a screwdriver to gain access to the pipe retaining nuts.

The piping holder is made of sheet metal that is flexible and strong enough so that it will not be damaged if carefully folded back.
19. Press out the fingers of the ball joints of the tips of the steering rods from the bosses of the swivel levers (see "Replacing the outer tip of the steering link Lada Largus").

Video (click to play).

20. Unscrew the pressure pipe retaining nut.

21.. and move the pipeline to the side.

22. Unscrew the drain pipe fixing nut.

23.. and move the pipeline to the side.

Take measures to prevent the leakage of hydraulic fluid from the pipelines by plugging them, for example, with wooden plugs. Replace the rubber O-rings on the discharge and return lines with new ones each time the connections are disassembled.
24. Remove the right front wheel
25 Unscrew right ...

26. and the left bolts securing the steering box to the subframe.

27.. and remove the bolts from the holes in the crankcase.

28. Disconnect the steering gear from the front suspension subframe.

29.. tilt the power unit forward slightly, move the steering gear to the left.

thirty. . and remove the steering gear by pulling it out through the opening in the left wheel well.

31. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the steering gear, make sure that the rack is in the middle (neutral) position. The tightening torque of the steering gear mounting bolts is 105 N * m, the nuts of the bolt of the terminal connection of the steering column with the steering gear shaft shank 21 N * m, the bolts of the rear support bracket of the power unit 105 N * m.
If you are installing the old steering mechanism, and in operation there was an increased free play (play) of the steering wheel, accompanied by a slight tapping of the rack when driving over uneven roads, adjust the gap between the rack stop and the rack to the minimum by turning the stop adjusting bolt clockwise.
To adjust, remove the bolt lock washer with a screwdriver.

... and turn the adjusting bolt with a “10” Allen key.Do not tighten the adjusting bolt more than necessary to close the gap! When the rail stop is "overtightened", the front wheels do not self-stabilize, as a result of which the car will not automatically adhere to a straight trajectory, and when exiting a turn, the front wheels will not tend to take a position for driving in a straight line.

32. Remove air from the hydraulic system (see "Bleeding the power steering system Lada Largus").
33. Check and, if necessary, adjust the alignment angles of the front wheels in a specialized workshop.

Let's say a knock is heard when you turn the steering wheel left and right. This knock can also occur when driving on a bad road. And the sound itself in each case will be emitted by the rack, loosely adjacent to the gear. A nut-stop is always screwed into the crankcase of the steering mechanism, tightening which reduces the gap between the rack and the gear. In general, the Renault Logan steering rack tightening looks the same as in other cars - the nut must be tightened, while it is advisable not to overdo it.

The car is in the pit;
The engine is off;
The rack makes a knock when turning the steering wheel.

Don't rush to adjust! There is indeed a nut in trim levels with power steering, but it will be undesirable to turn it.

Two power steering hoses are clearly visible

Try to start the engine and wait 10 seconds. The intensity of all knocks made when turning the steering wheel should decrease. This is how the power steering works, and this is normal! You can safely continue to operate the car.

Before tightening the steering rack Renault Logan with power steering, always bend the tin washer. The warranty is then lost. The washer is riveted along the edge of the nut and rests against the sides of the crankcase. Sometimes replacing the fluid in the power steering helps, but only if it has not changed for a long time and has lost its properties.

Let's see what the steering rack mechanism looks like live. The nut is located under the arrow (see photo).

Here is the stop nut

The nut itself can be turned with a hexagon "by 10". It's simple: rotation to the right corresponds to a decrease in the gap.

The car will have to be driven into a hole - there are no other options. Secure the rear wheels with a handbrake.

Two nuts on each side

First you need to remove the crankcase protection. We take the socket wrench "10" and unscrew 6 screws (2 on each of the three sides). It will be difficult to do without an assistant here.

The recess in the nut will be closed with a plug, rubber or plastic. The plug must be removed.

Nut location circled

The nut itself is not visible from under the bottom. Find it at the point surrounded by a circle (see photo).

The location of the nut must be felt by hand. This is how the steering rack of Renault Logan is tightened, as well as Lada Largus and all VAZ novelties.

When the nut is found and the plug is removed, the following options are possible:

We use an L-shaped socket wrench with a handle less than 10 cm;
A "flexible key" is also suitable, which is held over the metal of the body (see photo);

Here the key rope is passed

To reach the nut, it will be easier to jack up the left wheel and remove it. Next, a socket wrench is used.

And even before tightening the Renault Logan steering rack, many do this: they make a "10 by 10 cm" notch in the bottom with a grinder. It is better not to use this method.

Of course, it's best to do all the work with an assistant. The rail is adjusted step by step:

The nut is turned to the right by 10-20 degrees;
Let the assistant turn the steering wheel;
If a knock is heard, carry out step 1.

In the last step, the nut is tightened by turning it another 10 degrees. We wish you success.

BambreYes, there is a garage, and even a warm one. Now I just arrived from there. I tried to fill grease under the boot from the side where it knocks - it became more muffled. And while reading the ABC book (edition of the Third ROM), I found out that there is an adjusting nut on the rail with the GU, but without loosening the rear bolts of the subframe, you cannot crawl to unlock. Now I will look for a video where a man adjusts the gap on Logan. (The book says that the adjustment is made only in the factory). If I can find a link.A new topic would be nice to create.

Added new message 02-02-2016 at 19:27:56:
Here is a link but it's not that simple there. The whole trick is how to blacken and then blacken. For half an hour he spun like a fox in a children's fairy tale around a jug of milk

A drawing of the bushing and my manufacturing technology: we sharpen a bushing with a preliminary inner diameter of approximately 21.8, an outer one according to the drawing, we sharpen a steel sleeve with a height of 20, inner 33 + 0.02, outer - 50-60 mm. We insert (it is difficult to call this process by pressing) a fluoroplastic sleeve into a steel one, clamp the steel sleeve into the chuck of the machine and bore the inner diameter to Ф22 +0.02. The sleeve is almost ready. We slightly push it out of the steel sleeve, so that it remains pressed in about 8 mm, we make cuts 4 mm wide, with a file we cut the grooves along the inner diameter to a depth of 2 - 3 mm. Now I'm ready.
To create a constant tension in the bushing-rail connection, we use a rubber ring, which is inserted into the groove of the body where the fixing protrusions of the native bushing were located, with an outer diameter of 41 mm and a section of 3.6 mm, if there is a ring of a larger diameter but the desired section, then we simply cut off part of the necessary length.

Added new message 03-02-2016 at 09:20:40:
vitaz60If you read the previous posts:
1.the fault has been identified;
2. knock on the small shoulder;
3. information on solving the problem is from loganovodov (they have more experience);
4. skills are acquired through practice, and according to the book, this gap is set only at the factory (so that it is still a replacement);
5. the RENO service refuses to adjust.

Found another photo - with a highlighted nut. And you have to make a fork, though you also have to counter something with something.

We'll have to go to court again. In confirmation of the fact that no backlash in the rails is allowed, I cite an excerpt from the State Standard of the USSR GOST 25478-91
“Motor vehicles. Requirements for technical
the state of traffic safety.
Verification Methods "
1.3.5. Movements of parts and assemblies not provided for by the design
steering control relative to each other or the supporting surface is not
allowed. Threaded connections must be tightened and secured.

And also from SAFETY REQUIREMENTS FOR TECHNICAL CONDITION AND INSPECTION METHODS
GOST R 51709-2001
4.2.5 The mobility of the steering column in planes passing through its axis, the steering wheel in the axial direction, the steering gear housing, steering drive parts relative to each other or the supporting surface is not allowed. Threaded connections must be tightened and secured. Backlash in the joints of the pivot pins and the steering rod joints is not allowed. The device for fixing the position of the steering column with an adjustable position of the steering wheel must be functional.

And also from the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of 23.10.1993 "On the Rules of the Road",
It is prohibited to operate a car that has movements of parts and assemblies of the steering mechanism that are not intended by the design! And according to Art. 12.5 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation, the operation of a car that has movements of parts and assemblies of the steering mechanism that are not provided for by the design, entails the imposition of a fine in the amount of 500 rubles.

Such a popular and demanded car as the Lada Largus is equipped with a steering mechanism, which is a rack gear and a hydraulic booster. This Largus mechanism is fixed to the front suspension subframe and mounted to it with two bolts.

The principle of operation of the mechanism is that the working fluid under pressure enters the control valve mechanism. When the steering wheel is turned, the mechanism connects the two cavities and the fluid pressure helps to minimize the driver's effort. In the event of a malfunction of the amplifier system, the driver will be able to drive the car, but it will be more difficult for him to turn the steering wheel.

Let's give an example of some of the reasons for the failure of the Largus steering mechanism and possible options for their elimination:

The video shows possible malfunctions of the steering rack:

The life of a car owner is sometimes unpredictable and it is important to know, at least in theory, how to remove and install back one or another part of the car. Consider how the steering column is removed. For this process you will need tools such as a plastic mounting spade, a “13” socket, TORX T50 and T20 wrenches, pliers, and a flathead screwdriver.

Removing the steering column is carried out in stages:

Initially, the wire is disconnected from the battery terminal ("minus").
Next, you need to remove the steering wheel itself.
Then you need to remove the cover and steering column switches.
Then the screws securing the handles of the mechanism are unscrewed and the handles are dismantled.
Then the instrument panel is removed.
Next, squeeze the latch holding the pads and disconnect the block from the block.
Then the immobilizer antenna must be removed from the lock.
After that, squeeze the retainer with a screwdriver and remove the block itself.
Then slide the latch on the ignition switch harness block and disconnect the block.
Then you need to unscrew the nut and remove the bolt.
Next, you need to slide the universal joint fork off the pinion shaft tip.
After that, you should unscrew four bolts from the fastening of the steering column to the dashboard frame and remove the steering column itself.
If it was found that the steering column shaft crosses are worn out, then you will have to completely replace the shaft, since this unit is not collapsible.

Removing the steering gear

Installation of the steering column is carried out in the reverse order. It is recommended that when assembling it, replace the steering wheel mounting bolts with new elements.

Steering elements of a car with power steering:
1 - steering wheel;
2 - steering column;
3 - left steering knuckle assembled with a hub;
4 - left tip of the steering rod;
5 - intermediate shaft;
6 - bolts of fastening of the steering box housing to the subframe;
7 - steering gear housing;
8 - hydraulic booster drain line;
9 - hydraulic booster reservoir;
10 - filling line of the hydraulic booster;
11 - pressure line of the hydraulic booster;
12 - hydraulic booster fluid pressure sensor;
13 - power steering pump;
14 - stretcher;
15 - the right tip of the steering rod;
16 - right steering knuckle assembly with a hub

Steering gear of a car with power steering:
1 - right tip of the tie rod;
2 - steering rod;
3 - traction cover;
4 - steering gear housing;
5 - connecting pipes of the hydraulic booster;
6 - drive gear;
7 - left tip of the tie rod

The car's steering is rack and pinion, with a hydraulic booster. The steering gear is of the "pinion-rack" type. A drive gear is installed in the steering gear housing on two bearings, which meshes with a toothed rack. When the steering wheel is turned, the steering column shaft turns, which is connected to the drive gear through an intermediate shaft (at the ends of which there are cardan joints). The gear moves the rack, which, through the tie rods with tips and the steering knuckle levers connected to them, turns the steered wheels of the car.

The adjusting plug 2 is fixed to the steering gear housing 1 with a lock washer 3 riveted to the plug. The collar of the washer is pressed into the grooves of the crankcase in two places

The steering box is attached to the subframe with two bolts. In the steering gear housing, the rack is pressed against the drive gear through the stop. The lateral clearance between the gear and the rack is adjusted by rotating the adjusting plug. The adjustment is carried out only when the steering gear is assembled at the factory. In operation, the clearance is not subject to adjustment.

Tie rod assembly with steering rack:
1 - rail;
2 - ball joint of thrust;
3 - steering rod

The steering gear consists of two steering rods connected to the steering rack and steering knuckle arms. Each rod is attached with its inner end to the steering rack through a non-separable ball joint - the threaded end of the joint is screwed into the hole in the rack. In the middle part of the steering rod there is a hexagon wrench "for 13", and at the outer end there is a thread (right), onto which the rod end is screwed. The tie rod end has a non-separable ball joint that does not require replenishment of the lubricant stored inside it for the entire service life.

The right and left tie rods are the same, but the tips are different.

There is one mark on the right end of the tie rod ...

The connection between the steering rack and the ball joint of the steering rod is protected from dirt and moisture by a corrugated rubber boot. The cover is fixed with a plastic clamp on the steering gear housing, and the cover is held on the steering rod due to the elasticity of the rubber - while the narrow belt of the cover must coincide with the groove made on the steering rod.
When assembling the steering mechanism at the factory, the threaded connection of the tip of the steering rod joint with the rack is secured against loosening ...

When crimping the end of the rail, the geometry of the threaded connection is violated. To replace the steering rod, it is necessary to unscrew the tip of the hinge from the hole in the rail (the hexagon on the housing of the hinge for a “32” wrench and a flat at the end of the rail for a “18” wrench). In this case, the threads in the hole in the steering rack are likely to be damaged. If the damage to the thread in the hole of the steering rack is minor, it can be "driven out" with a tap - otherwise it is better to replace the steering gear assembly.

Steering column:
1 - connecting sleeve;
2 - lower cardan joint;
3 - intermediate shaft;
4 - upper cardan joint;
5 - steering column shaft;
6 - front bracket for mounting the column;
7 - pipe;
8 - rear column mounting bracket;
9 - socket of the ignition switch

The steering column is non-traumatic, with a steering wheel tilt adjustment mechanism.
The steering column shaft is attached to the steering gear drive gear through an intermediate shaft with two cardan joints.
The intermediate shaft is made integral to ensure injury safety. In the event of a frontal collision of the vehicle during an accident, the steering column must not move towards the driver. This is achieved through a spline connection in the middle of the shaft. On the splines in the upper part of the steering column shaft there is a steering wheel secured with a screw. The steering column is attached to a cross-member bracket located under the dashboard.

Power steering pump

Steering rack adjustment for Renault Logan without gura

Repair of a steering rack with power steering. Lada Largus.

Eliminate play in the steering gear Renault Logan

Repair of a steering rack Logan, Logan.

Replacing the rack from power steering to Renault Logan, Sandero, Lada Largus

Renault Duster, knock on the steering rack, knock elimination, there is an error, see description.

Guys, make a video of how to change the rail bushings on the Largus-Logan without removing it.

Guys, help out! He removed the rail, while fixing the steering wheel not in the position of even wheels. Now the catch is how to put the rail so that when the steering wheel rotates, the wires that go to the pillow on the steering column are not cut off.

What rail without power steering will deliver

Hello. Please show me the repair of such a rail with power steering

Good afternoon, dear, is it possible to tighten the rail? Can you make a video if it makes sense to tighten it, or just the replacement knocked once

Guys, tell Logan 2015 when passing tram tracks into the steering wheel and the rumble is small is that the end of the rail?

Tell me please. I have a Renault simbol 2004 with gur. How to choose the right anthers for steering rods, if there are 4 types of steering racks according to the spare parts selection program. Which one do I have? How to find out? Thanks in advance.

Reno repair Thank you very much. You are doing a good job.

He took off the rail and changed the sleeve cuffs (where the steering wheel is connected with a worm), now the steering wheel is crooked, but the car does not drive (it goes straight). The question is now how to correctly install the slot without removing the rail? Subscription.

The bolt was broken because the wrench was tightened))). And so that the rust quickly leaves, pour it with vinegar, after half an hour, even the strongest rust will go away. Only then it must be rinsed out!

My father on Logan changed the rail without hydra, the stretcher did not take off! Rather, I did not change the rail, but the bushing in it. The sleeve was machined from fluoroplastic, size 33 / 22mm. I don't remember the width. When disassembling the rack, the thread on the silumin nut of the steering column fell off, it was also grinded.

Please advise, an analogue of a rail without gur. Logan 1.4 2008

I think just put the genes mount bracket from the car without a gar.

and the gur pump itself is being repaired. if you ran.

why not just put the gene back

it means that the gene is attached to the same bracket with the gur.

but you can put a simple rail on the car on which the gur was.

Well, it means just to put the bracket from the car without Gur

The Renault Logan steering rack is a special mechanism that transfers forces from the steering wheel to the steering rods of each of the wheels. In other words, it is a device that makes the front wheels turn in the direction that the steering wheel turns.

Despite the apparent reliability, the unit breaks down from time to time, requires replacement and subsequent adjustment. How is Renault Logan steering rack repair and adjustment carried out? What nuances should be taken into account? Let's consider these points in more detail.

According to the manufacturer, the resource of the steering rack is 180-200 thousand kilometers. To avoid malfunctions, it is enough to inspect and, if necessary, revise (repair) the unit at least once every 6 months.

There are many reasons for the failure of the node. Here are just a few of them:

Poor quality of roads, which increases the load on the junction.
Accumulation of dust and dirt in rubber seals with subsequent corrosion.
Reckless driving style.
Normal wear and tear and so on.

How to determine if a Renault steering rack is faulty? Often, a routine inspection, as well as attention to the vehicle while driving, is enough to identify a defect. The first signs that in the future it is impossible to do without repair or adjustment are the appearance of extraneous noise, an unusual knock of the suspension, an increase in wheel play or a stiff steering wheel. In such a situation, the best solution is to contact the service station to find the problem, and subsequently to repair the front suspension using a repair kit. In some cases, it may be necessary to replace a failed unit.

According to statistics, the weakest link in the Renault chassis is the bearings installed in the front hubs. Not less often, motorists also complain about other components - thrust bushings, which are damaged due to poor-quality road surface. We mentioned the first signs of breakage above (knocking, vibration and increased backlash when turning the steering wheel). Consider the malfunctions and features of Renault repair in more detail.

Breakdowns and methods of elimination:

Many craftsmen go the simplest way and solve problems with the steering rack by pulling the adjusting plug.

But if you squeeze the worm-type gear too much, the teeth will wear out, which can cause many troubles in the future. But in a garage, there are not so many other alternatives to repairing a Renault rail.

If a knock is heard when the steering wheel rotates, then its source, as a rule, is the steering rack due to a loose fit to the gear. One of the elements of the mechanism is a thrust nut, thanks to which the distance between the gear and the steering rack is adjusted. If you tighten it, then the problem is most often solved.

“The main thing when doing this kind of work is to be careful and not overdo it. If set up incorrectly, the risk of wear and tear of worm assemblies and their failure grows. "

To tighten the nut or repair a failed unit, take into account the design features of the car. There are two options here:

Power steering is provided on Renault Logan. Consider the situation - the engine is off, and when turning, the steering rack knocks. Take your time to make adjustments. On a car with a power steering, a special nut is present, but it is not recommended to rotate it (as mentioned above).

Start the engine and wait at least ten seconds. The activity of extraneous noise during the rotation of the steering wheel is most often reduced. Experts assure that this is the normal work of the GUR. If this happens, do not touch the Renault steering rack nut and continue to operate the machine.

If the problem persists, then bend the "tin" washer before stretching the nut.Thanks to this foresight, the machine remains under warranty service. Please note that the washer is riveted around the perimeter of the nut and is close to the crankcase bolts. In some cases, a repair kit may be required (for more serious work) or the usual fluid replacement in the hydraulic booster. The latter option is relevant if the working fluid has not changed for a long time, and its properties have deteriorated.

The principle of operation is to turn the nut to the right side to reduce the clearance. The work on adjusting the Renault rail is done as follows:

Park the car in the hole and raise the handbrake to secure the wheels.
Dismantle the crankcase protection using a ten key (you will have to twist three pairs of screws). One cannot cope here - take a partner with you.

The recess in which the nut is installed is tightly closed with a plug (made of plastic or rubber) - remove it. Please note that it is not always possible to see the nut itself - find it by touch.

After removing the plug, you have several options. Use a flex or L-shaped wrench. In the latter case, the length of the handle should be ten centimeters or more. Alternatively, buy a special key.

Jack up the wheel on the left side to reach the nut and remove it.

“Some people make grooves 100 * 100 mm before broaching the steering rack with an angle grinder. This is a dangerous technique and it is better to refuse it. "

Next, proceed with the adjustment. For this:

Turn the nut to the right by a small angle (15-20 degrees).
Command your partner to actively steer left and right.
Broach again if knocking occurs.
After the knock disappears, do a test pull for another 10 degrees.

If you follow the instructions carefully, adjusting the Renault rail will not take much time. But keep in mind that if a malfunction is found, it may be necessary to replace the faulty unit (here you can no longer do without a repair kit). If some points remain unclear, watch the training video.

Watch an interesting video on this topic

Video (click to play).