Decent, quiet and fast car on the road with good coverage. When driving on a dirt road, you can make the music louder, the clatter and rattling of the rack and pinion mechanism can cause a nervous breakdown and a desire to replace all elements of the front suspension. or get to the manufacturer and wish him a pleasant pastime in a well-known direction ..
VIDEO
... the price of a new, possibly not "clanking" steering mechanism for some time.
... the problem lies in the cast or knurled short-toothed shaft.
... in addition, they do not have a protective coating and, accordingly, are prone to corrosion, in the presence of such defects in the anthers of the steering rods.
... as a result, the shaft rusts within 2 months.
..dismantling the mechanism is not easy, more difficult than on Lancer 9. the subframe must be lowered completely, because the rear attachment points are made on hairpins.
... front subframe mounting nuts.
... before lowering the subframe, unscrew the 2 bolts securing the pipe and the cooling tube.
... feed bolt and return hose.
... the subframe hangs freely on the suspension elements.
... The 3 mounting bolts and the steering gear are removed.
... dismantling the rail - we estimate the degree of wear of the components ..
... we restore the rusty shaft.
... we select new seals. "Along the way" we replace the stabilizer bushings.
... we assemble the steering rack and check the build quality on a stand under pressure.
... we get an updated, silent steering gear.
Hello everyone! Start of repair HERE.
Video (click to play).
And he went to work to the turner so that he drove the thread on the nut. After looking at and evaluating all the options, the tokor issued a virdict that it was necessary to slightly increase the thread on the rail body, tk. "Gifted" mechanics who have already put their hands on the rail with a core core have filled 2 points, apparently so that the nut does not unscrew! and I would not have been able to unscrew it without spoiling the thread! On Monday, I brought the rail to work and the turner began to grind megaMECHIK!
It was necessary to drive the threads on the rail body manually and together, so forgive me for the lack of a photo, the turner started making the nut, and while I went to dinner he managed to make one side. It took him 2 hours to make the nut.
At work, I also replaced the oil seal, which is in the middle of the rail, knocking it out with a second-layer rod, and pressing it in the same way! since the nut is new, then the gland in it is new (by the way, pulling out the gland (5mm wide) from the old nut, I barely saw that there was still a fluoroplastic ring (1mm) and after trying on a new gland (6mm.), we did not install the ring). I washed and blew the rail, assembled it, it remains to fill it with grease, put the tubes, and screw the steering rods.
Japanese cars are renowned for their quality. But in domestic conditions, they need regular care.Today's review will show you how to professionally repair a mazda 6 steering rack.
This node on the machines of this family is largely traditional, but there are still some nuances in its design. The fact is that sedans or station wagons of different years of production differ in a number of systems, and steering is also on this list.
Consider from what components does the rail consist of "Sixes" of the second generation, designated as gh (produced from 2008 to 2013):
frame;
electric amplifier;
rotor rotation and torque sensors;
fixing locknuts;
anthers;
steering rod ends;
ball bearings.
All of these parts are brought together into one unit, which is fastened with three bolts to the subframe.
It works like this. The control unit (EPS) receives signals from the steering column sensor and the ABS units, as well as the motor. The same EPS regulates the operation of the steering gear motor to provide the required torque.
For a more detailed acquaintance, let's see how the Mazda 6 gg steering rack (first generation) is arranged. The main difference from more "fresh" cars is that instead of the EUR there is a hydraulic booster, which is familiar to many, with a tube for supplying ATF and a "return" running on the rail. This whole system is complemented by a distributor. Well, there are already more seals here.
With our roads, you have to be on the lookout all the time, especially the owners of foreign cars.
Therefore, we will name the main "Symptoms" , which indicate that it is time to inspect the mentioned mechanism:
there were extraneous sounds (squeaks or squeals);
throws the car, the steering angle does not coincide with the actions of the wheels.
a knock is clearly heard, which "gives off" by the vibration of the steering wheel;
the steering wheel vibrates even at low speeds;
steering wheel sharply "heavier" in all directions;
"Steering wheel" turns arbitrarily or tightly returns to the straight position;
when turning in one direction, you have to make extra efforts;
turning in one direction, the driver hears a creak or feels a noticeable backlash.
Such signs are familiar to experienced motorists. It can be said to be pure mechanics combined with hydraulics. The steering rack of the Mazda 6 gh can be distinguished by malfunctions of the electric booster and its sensors. In this case, the driver will face the above-mentioned troubles.
Customers who come to the service formulate them simply - "creaked", "heavy" or "flowed". For convenience, we will divide the reasons into the same groups.
Excessive knocks and noises can be caused by:
weakened fastening of the entire mechanism (there are three "ears" for bolts in total);
weak ball tightening;
an increase in the clearance between the nut and the "rack and pinion" emphasis;
a broken steering shaft cross;
"Airborne" power steering pipes, blockage of the system or lack of fluid.
With infrequent prevention, this is the difference between the Mazda 6 gg steering rack, which only speeds up the repair.
Problems with steering response are caused by:
Worn pump working connections;
Errors when adjusting the rails;
Broken distributor torsion bar;
Worn "ring" housing of the same distributor;
Worm wear or tooth breakage on the gear;
A worn out or cracked pump belt;
A torn cover that allows dirt to get onto the connections.
Leaks are simple - a loose or punctured oil seal is a common problem. Less often, the tubes themselves or the tank are damaged.
The mazda 6 gh electric steering rack may suffer from:
blown fuses;
broken contacts;
broken sensors.
All this affects the work of the EUR.
The first step is a visual inspection. Pay particular attention to such moments:
the condition of the anthers;
the presence of damage to the threads;
wheel response to steering;
backlash of the support sleeve and the shaft cross;
the tightening and condition of the rods with tips;
the safety of the worm pair;
liquid (its amount and color);
integrity of pipes and "return".
This is the very beginning, but even such examinations allow you to immediately identify a defect.The next stage requires not only a tool, but also the experience of a serviceman, since disassembly will be required with further troubleshooting and replacement of problem parts.
Many owners make repairs to the Mazda 6 rail on their own, but for nodes that directly affect safety, it is better to contact a service.
This method is considered the simplest if you need to remove knocking, backlash or a little "soften" the steering wheel. True, in some cases it is no longer possible to do it.
Such operations are reduced to broaching (or replacing) the adjusting screw. It is located under the column cover. When it is removed, the cross will become visible, at the bottom of which the desired bolt is located.
In this case, the clutch is also removed, and new grease is put on the shaft splines. On its halves there are marks on which they are guided during assembly.
On machines from the first series, this work requires a fair amount of accuracy - the spline may be knocked down a little, and without the necessary skill, it may be necessary to re-repair the old Mazda 6 gg rail.
To start the rail is removed from the car ... On later versions (with EUR) it looks like this:
The machine is placed on a lift, where the wheels and crankcase "armor" are removed.
All pads of wires are removed: from the amplifier and both clamps.
Unscrew the bolts securing the lower arm and the brace that grabs it to the subframe.
Then the fastening of the lower support is unscrewed, which can now be removed.
The subframe is removed together with the stabilizer bar and rail.
It remains to unscrew the three bolts that hold the unit we need on the stretcher, and the Mazda 6 steering rack is in the hands of the mechanic.
Next comes directly repair .
The assembly is securely clamped in a heavy-duty yew.
Remove the covers.
Remove the clamp adjusting nut and the spring underneath.
After removing the fasteners, remove the torque sensor.
Next is the turn of the steering shaft stopper and this unit itself.
Having unscrewed the bolts, remove the amplifier case from the rear support.
The same is done with the stator.
Now you can pull the stem out of the rail.
All parts must be removed and washed.
The stem is ground. As for the steering shaft, its journals are ground there, on the machine.
The central bushing of the support is turned on a lathe.
Assembly produced in reverse order , but with its own nuances. For example, the stem is degreased and dried, and then lubricated. When it is already inserted into the body, the "worm" check follows - it will spin without much effort. It is imperative to check and adjust the angles of descent and camber.
For more "older" sedans of the gg line, the procedure is done in the same way, only with an amendment to the power steering - the fluid is drained, and you have to work carefully with the spool.
Such operations "on the knee" are unlikely to be carried out - not every garage has all the pullers, let alone the machines. Therefore, service comes into play. Masters who value their reputation will never "catch up" the price or insist on an urgent replacement, but will calmly explain everything.
Even in their own yard, road workers or the weather can leave a "surprise", so experienced drivers willingly share their advice ... In order for the Mazda 6 steering rack to please with a long resource, you will need:
It is calmer to work "steering wheel". Excessive, and most importantly, abrupt movements increase the wear of all joints.
Inspect anthers regularly. This also applies to the power steering reservoir: pay attention not only to the amount of ATP, but also to its color (a dark or profusely foamed liquid is no longer suitable).
After twisting the steering wheel to the extreme point, do not overexpose it. 5 maximum 7 seconds - no longer worth it.
Drive carefully. Banal advice, but still. Dashing "grabs" on the curbs and storming the tram track can kill any, even the highest quality part.
For a car with a hydraulic booster in cold weather, it is better to arrange a little warm-up - until the engine reaches the desired temperature, turn the steering wheel several times in both directions. This will reduce the viscosity and will not thicken anything in the tubes.
If installed "electrics", periodically check the contacts and the condition of the blocks holding the harnesses.
We looked at how the steering racks are maintained on Mazda sixths of various generations. We hope our tips come in handy. Good roads!
This rail is nothing more than a part of the steering, or rather a special unit-mechanism. Which serves to evenly distribute the power load from the column to the wheels. Initially, the effort that the driver sets is directed from the steering wheel to the column, which, in turn, is connected to the rack.
Thus, we came to the conclusion that the Mazda steering mechanism works according to the generally accepted principle of all cars and, moreover, is in all Mazda modifications.
Now let's get down to it, that is, let's take a closer look at the Mazda steering rack device. So, this device consists of: a support sleeve and a spool mechanism, but the gear shaft is considered the most dominant element. This is a standard device for this car model.
For example, my Mazda 6 steering rack has become unusable. Therefore, I consider it necessary to clarify some truths. Since the Mazda 3 steering rack is also not immune from such troubles.
There are so-called common reasons for rack wear. First of all, this is the natural quality of our roads, caused by regular shaking in the pits and increased dust formation.
If the driver is not averse to driving around, not noticing the holes and not slowing down in front of them, then he should be prepared for the rake to knock very soon. To prevent this from happening, and in an instant the node does not begin to leak, you need to often look at the state of the anthers and their integrity. If you miss a tiny hole, the leak will make itself felt immediately. And it will happen like this: dirt will start to enter the hole and the seals will quickly wear out.
However, it is worth knowing that, by and large, the Mazda steering rack and its very work, still depend on the driver. How many times does a car stand in the cold with its wheels turned out? There are many and the consequences of this attitude are unambiguous, failure of the rail, especially the hydraulic one.
For example, on a Mazda 6 station wagon in 2012, a restored rail, not new, can be bought for $ 500. And for 6 Mazda model 1992-97, with the 1.8 engine, you will have to pay off $ 300 and this is also a restored version. Naturally, the new one costs an order of magnitude more expensive, plus the work of the craftsmen.
The new rake on the Mazda 3 costs a lot of money, so it doesn't make us happy either, the same remanufactured version will cost $ 450 for almost all three. So, alas, the river is worth keeping.
If we talk about the most frequent breakdowns, then the Mazda steering mechanism suffers more often from wear: the slide, the rod and the seals. And the work on fixing and replacing parts is very expensive in this model.
It is possible to clarify a little and the assessment of work in this direction, so the restoration of the Mazda 6 steering rack will cost in rubles, about 6,000-6500 thousand. And then if it is removed, as well as removal and installation cost 2-2.5 thousand.
As for the others, the Mazda 3 steering rack the repair price is no less. In other words, repairing the rail for all Mazda models costs about the same, the only difference is the price of the rail itself.
Many drivers are often interested in what is included in the repair of rails and in what sequence it is carried out. This is how it is done. First, the rail is disassembled and all its parts are washed in a special way. Find a faulty one, change it if it is not recoverable. After that, the rack gear shaft is checked and at the same time cleaned.Directly on the steering rack, Mazda is changed: oil seals and rings, anthers and other parts.
By the way, the question remains, why are the slats installed more often than restored ones? Yes, because the new ones are more expensive, and they serve as much as the restored steering racks.
- on the move, a knock is heard in the suspension;
- oil flows from the hydraulic system;
- on bumps, there is a characteristic knock on the steering wheel;
- the power steering pump makes a lot of noise when the engine is running;
- the steering wheel turns a little tight;
- there is more play in the steering wheel.
Here is a list worth paying attention to. In this case, you do not need to go to extremes if you suddenly hear tapping in the suspension area, clearly felt in the steering wheel. Everything may not be so scary, but only the ball on the steering rod or its tip have become unusable.
The most unpleasant thing about the car can be the Mazda steering rack, which gracefully knocks. Here it is, that is exactly what it is - terrible. Plus, it can also leak, leaving transmission fluid oily stains. At the same time, the steering wheel is also slow.
In this case, the slats are diagnosed on the stand in the workshop, under high atmospheric pressure, about 160.
And what to do in this case: give it for repair or buy a new rail. The answer depends on the driver's capabilities, if the finances are not very good, it is better to repair it, and if there is, buy a new or rebuilt one.
Another common problem in Mazda is rail backlash. The signs, which are simple, are the steering wheel backlash, which occurs due to a breakdown of the steering column column or backlash in the rail itself and its structure. Again, then you need to completely disassemble it, rinse it and check it at the stand.
A standard Mazda steering rack repair includes replacing damaged parts: bushings, anthers. o-rings, oil seals and others. However, it also happens that the rail has become completely unusable, then just throw it away and install another one.
The problem of rails, it is generally considered large-scale and does not apply only to these car models. It can be said to be universal and is related to almost all imported cars. This is due to the fact that the bottom of the cars is very low, sometimes there are more bumps on the roads than the clearance parameter can allow.
Thus, it is not only the steering that suffers, but also many other significant components of the machine.
Steering rack repair video
VIDEO
The steering rack is a mechanism that redistributes the momentum from the steering column to the wheels. The reaction of the steered wheels to the driver's movements depends on the state of the rail. The reason for the repair can be completely different, the main one is the steering rack leak.
Technically savvy service station specialists are responsible for the timely repair of car rails. They carry out the replacement and complete installation of the steering rack. High-quality repair of the steering gear is also included in the list of services provided by a standard service station. At a specialized stand, they carry out a full diagnostics and check of the rail parameters.
Many companies are engaged in installing, removing and replacing rails. But you can repair the steering rack of the Mazda 6 with your own hands. Before starting the repair of the rail, it is necessary to subject it to a complete defect identification and a thorough revision of the physical condition of all its components. It is best to do this during the repair of the car itself, as it helps to comply with all technical aspects.
As soon as the driver noticed a change in the noise of the steering mechanism, then you can think about repairing.
Steering rack knock is a change in the sound in the suspension, which are instantly transmitted to the steering wheel. The driver will not confuse this sound with something else; the presence of a malfunction in the rail will be immediately clear. It always starts unexpectedly, since at first the sound will be barely audible. Since drivers use cars very often, it is quite difficult to determine the sound when it is not clearly audible, because the driver is already used to many noises.
Sometimes the presence of a malfunction is indicated to the driver by another person who sat on the steering wheel of the car for the first time. There are many elements in the suspension that are capable of emitting various extraneous sounds; professional mechanics in any service station can determine the source, but this can also be done independently.
For example, a fluid leak. It is very easy to determine without even having special knowledge. The car will leave stains in the parking lot, it is difficult to miss. In order not to confuse the power steering fluid from the engine oil, just look at the color of the spot.
The color of the oil will be very different from the color of the liquid. It will be red or green, in rare cases yellow. If you pay attention to the barrel, then you can also determine from it that the liquid has flowed away. Depending on the vehicle, you can check the power steering marks or the dipstick.
The dipstick is attached to the reservoir lid, making it fairly easy to check the fluid level.
The reasons for the repair can be completely different:
oil punching of the steering rack oil seals (leak)
mechanical wear of the rail parts
Repair of rails is not limited to replacing oil seals; it is also necessary to grind the shaft against corrosion. If it is necessary to completely disassemble the structure to replace parts, then it is necessary to adjust the rail.
So that the rail does not need daily repairs, diagnostics should be carried out periodically. This will help to understand in what state it is at the moment, its performance, as well as compliance with the specified parameters by the manufacturer. Knowing about the serviceability of parts and their wear will help you to use the rail more efficiently.
It is fairly easy to pinpoint the smallest faults with confidence, but it comes with experience. By repairing the rail several times, you can quickly determine the degree of wear and repair the damage much faster than the first time.
Parts must be cleaned of contamination. This will increase their service life. Therefore, after the rail has been disassembled, you should start cleaning., Remove corrosion, replace, if necessary, seals, etc. When repairing, you should use only analog, high-quality spare parts. Correctly carried out repairs will make the rail ready for long-term and reliable operation.
The price of the issue, speaks for the production of repairs on your own - if you do everything yourself - keep within 25,000 rubles, if you put the part disassembled, then about 40,000 rubles. Well, if you order a new original spare part, then about 100,000 rubles.
The rail repair process can be divided into two stages:
Removing the rail
The actual repair itself
So, what we have is a Mazda 6 with a snotty or knocking rail.
What is needed to remove the rail:
jack,
cruciform balloon wrench,
socket wrench with heads 12, 17 and 19,
socket wrench extension 750 mm,
cardan,
pliers,
crosshead screwdriver,
ball puller,
permanent marker,
power steering fluid ATF M-III 1 l.
So, step by step:
The installation of the steering rack must be done in the reverse order, while taking into account a few IMPORTANT POINTS:
Power steering fluid must be poured when the machine is installed on stands
Power steering fluid level should be maximum
NOT STARTING ENGINE , you need to turn the steering wheel several times all the way to the right or left sideAdd liquid again to the maximum mark and repeat the rotation of the wheel until it stops in both directions. THIS ITEM MUST BE REPEATED UNTIL THE LIQUID IS STOPPED TO LEAVE.
We remove the car from the stands and start the engine, let it idle
We turn the steering wheel several times all the way to both sides.
We check the power steering fluid level and make sure that it does not foam.
If the liquid is gone, add it to the maximum mark and repeat the steering wheel turn in both directions until it stops.
This completes the installation process.
Any car enthusiast can repair the Mazda 6 steering rack. The most detailed way of its repair process is described in the following video.(Do not be intimidated by the advertisement at its beginning, after which the specialist proceeds to repair the rail):
VIDEO Do not scold or beat me too much, there are a LOT of pictures, so I will give links to pictures.
It appears like this. A year ago, a torn left boot was noticed on the rail, but for some reason it so happened that it was not up to him =)
And just recently, once again, when inspecting the car, my eyes fell on this very sad boot and all this snot around it.
And since “Our hands are not for boredom” the rail was sentenced to be repaired. Were ordered: RemKit steering rack (consisting of 4 oil seals), steering tips, tie rods and one boot. All this arrived safely and rode with me in the car for almost two weeks.
2) Unscrew with a 17 key, a fitting with a tube.
3) Unscrew the nut with a key of 10. Otherwise, the tube that we unscrewed cannot be moved away.
4) With a small ratchet for 12, we twist the steering shaft cardan.
5) We take out the steering tips from the steering knuckle.
Then it starts more interesting =)
6) You need to try hard and unscrew the steering rack bolts with a 14 head. Unscrewing two of them is not a problem,
Unscrewed !?
Did you remember a lot of swear words !? Well let's go further =)
7) With a 17 key, unscrew and remove the axle bolt of the rear engine mount
8) With the same key 17 or a head, from BOTH sides, unscrew the bolts and nuts of the subframe
In principle, the support could not have been put, the stretcher did not go far, but I made sure to be on the safe side just in case
9) Having unscrewed the stretcher, we got the very same 2-3 cm that did not allow us to pull the rail out of the bowels of the engine compartment
HOORAY . The rail is in our hands.
But you need to continue. And we, with the rail in our hands, go to the operating table.
Never mind the creative mess. in general, my entire instrument is sterile =))
10) We fix the rail in the yew, remove the anthers and unscrew the steering rods, a key for 30 (adjustable and gas key RULES =))
This is what we have left
and on the other hand, respectively
11) Remove the retaining ring and under it we already see one of the 4 oil seals
12) Loosen the lock nut from the "steering rack adjustment mechanism"
13) Using a special key for 22, we unscrew the “adjustment mechanism”. You need to be careful not to run through a small spring, otherwise it's a disaster =)
As an introduction, I will say that it was a weekend that I will never forget! It is usually customary to write thanks at the end of the recording, but this is not the case. I want to say a huge thank you to Andrey (penaplast) both for researching the steering rack itself on our cars, ways to replace the bushing, and for helping and consulting me. Honestly, if not for Andrey, then many would have rattled their racks further or brought a lot of money into the services. Since I am respectful of other people's intellectual property, there will be no special details in my entry, all the questions are on the link above. There is no impossible work, there is poor preparation. And so it happened with me, so the work lasted for 2 days, due to the lack of some tools and a clear understanding of how to remove the steering rod.
Regarding the bushing - in THIS thread on the my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2208 forum, a group purchase of SKF bushings was organized and I bought myself one. Alternatively, they order bushings from China, they are exiled on the last pages of the specified topic.
On the first day, the steering universal joint was oiled, as well as the shafts under the anthers on both sides. I would recommend this procedure to everyone. It's not so difficult to do this, but knocks at the joints of the asphalt removes with a bang.
On the second day, it turned out to remove the rack stocking and finally replace the bushing itself.Lubricating the shaft on the right side the day before was not the best idea, because all this grease had to be cleaned before replacing the bushing. Do not forget to remove the terminal from the battery before removing the rail stocking.
This is what the shaft looks like on the right side. No lubrication is observed.
Lubricate the shaft on the left side
Shaft lubrication on the right side
If someone gets an anther like that, do not worry, it will return to normal over time.
Finally, the tie rod is removed
The old bushing is waiting for replacement.
The new sleeve has taken its place
Hello everyone! Today I realized what was long planned and haunted by all Mashek owners. I ordered the bushings back in July, received them in early September, and only got around to getting my hands on it today. I ordered an SKF bushing. The replacement operation has been described for a long time and in many places. Largely thanks to a comrade with the nickname Penoplast. Respect to him for the information! So what he did: He took off the stocking from the rail. How to take it off the sea, I see no reason to describe it for the hundred and first time.
Next, he pulled off the new bushing with a clamp to simulate its crimping. And put it on the shaft.
It is necessary to ensure that the clearance between the shaft and the bushing is 0.1 - 0.2 mm. If it is less, it can bite the shaft when the rack heats up. If there is more, the knock will remain.
I immediately had a gap of 0.1 mm. Given that the shaft has a diameter of 24.1 mm. Meryl with a caliper. And I checked the gap by pushing the probe under the sleeve on the shaft. Although, very often people have to adjust the sleeve to the desired gap, grinding off a little metal from it in the place of the cut. Apparently, my shaft is not worn out. By the way, the diameter of the shaft is the same for me along its entire length. Those. there is no development in the zero position of the rudder. I was also very pleased that under the anther there was perfect cleanliness and the complete absence of traces of water.
Then, I pressed the sleeve into the stocking, lubricated the shaft with lithol and put everything back together.
The shaft play is gone, and there are no more knocks) In general, I'm glad) I bought the bushing for 95 rubles. It's surprising that not all Mazdovody know the number of this bushing by heart)))))
Here is its number: PCM 242715 E.
Good luck to everyone and thank you for your attention!
Price tag: 95 ₽ Mileage: 123,500 km
The steering rack of the Mazda 6, its weak point ... At work I saw a Mazda with a full set on the rail: where the steering wheel turned with different efforts, and pulled to one side. Fortunately, this sore did not affect my Mazda. The only nuance of the rail on my car, there was a knock on the right side, it manifested itself when passing a rail, and an uneven road. As everyone knows, there is a SKF PCM242715E bushing, which everyone puts and forget about the problem. I found this sleeve on Avito, about 500 rubles came out with delivery
There is nothing complicated about replacing, I do not see any point in describing the point because there are many similar entries on the drive and on Google.An important factor is the very condition of the steering shaft, there is often a case where the shaft is corroded from moisture entering the anthers, then there is no point in repairing. My shaft was in excellent condition. It was not difficult to knock out the old bushing.
The new bushing came in harder
Feels like I will say one thing, how many rails I fingered and rode on these cars after repair, I did not notice much difference because I heard other extraneous sounds, breaks in the cabin, etc. that did not give me general silence. In your own car, when you already know where what knocks and squeaks, this unpleasant knock on the right side disappeared.
Price tag: 500 ₽ Mileage: 125,000 km
The steering rack MAZDA 6 refers to the disadvantages of the car. Very often you have to contact a car service to replace it. This is especially true for the 2008 model. The car is equipped with an EPS system, which complicates the repair work somewhat.
The problem of the 2008 MAZDA 6 steering rack manifests itself in different ways. There is enough material on various forums that talks about how a car behaves with a faulty steering rack. Among the most frequent and encountered problems you can see:
knocking when turning the steering wheel,
the car can go sideways,
Difficulty turning the steering wheel
inability to turn the steering wheel "to a cold engine".
All this can be accompanied by various service signals. It is not always necessary to repair the MAZDA 6 steering rack.The fact is that in some situations, the EPS control unit becomes the culprit of the problems. In such situations, a software fix is required. A distinctive feature of car services in this case is the reluctance to do so. They just suggest you swap the steering rack for a MAZDA 6.
If the steering rack works well, then you are safe on the road. As soon as there are some changes in its "behavior", you do not need to debug a visit to a car service for diagnostics. No need to run a problem that is already there. Firstly, your safety is in question, and secondly, if you run this problem, then it will affect your financial situation very well. This situation is very indicative of the Toyota RAV 4 steering rack.
In fact, the 2008 MAZDA 6 steering rack is believed to be a design flaw. Thus, you can't get away from repairs. It's like repairing a Priora steering rack.
It starts with installing the car on a lift, pit or overpass;
The second step is to remove the stretcher;
Then you need to remove the battery terminals and disconnect the connectors from the EPS unit;
After that, proceed to remove the steering rack itself;
Replace the stabilizer bushings, disassemble the steering rack and replace all worn out parts;
Collect everything in the reverse order.
The price of repairing a MAZDA 6 steering rack ranges from 12-14 thousand Russian rubles .
Very often the steering rack parts are covered with a layer of corrosion. Nobody is immune from this. This problem occurs on the steering rack of Toyota Corolla 120 and on the steering rack of other cars. And the main reason for replacing the VAZ 2114 steering rack can also be attributed to corrosion on the rack itself.
In general, given the state of the roads in Russia in winter, you need to try to prevent contact of steering rack parts with water and mixtures that are sprinkled on the roads. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to go to a car service to replace the steering rack.
The cost of repairing a MAZDA 6 steering rack may depend on who will make the repair. For example, in a car service it will be more expensive than in a garage. In addition, it will be very bad if not the mechanisms themselves fail, but, for example, the EPS control unit. In this case, you just need to contact a specialist.
Even if you are good at electronics, you cannot subjugate him without their help. The best option would be to contact the MAZDA brand center. Such auto centers can be found in almost any city. Do not forget, if you change the steering rack in a car service, inquire about the warranty period for work.
After repair of the steering racks, in the first weeks, the steering wheel may be "tight". The parts that have been replaced must "get used" to each other and develop. After a couple of weeks, this problem goes away by itself.
Video (click to play).
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