Steering rack mitsubishi lancer 10 DIY repair

It is clear that due to factory defects, even on fresh cars with low mileage, the rail reminds of its existence all the time. But in this case, the defect progressed rapidly due to human intervention. Here's a movie:

.. Who this person is is a mystery, most likely in the past he worked part-time as an electrician, otherwise how can one explain the use of plastic clamps for attaching the anthers of the steering rods.

... resulting in severe corrosion of the rack and pinion shaft.

... and here is the consequences of the torn anther of the steering link. "Mega rust"

... in the latter case, irreversible wear of the gear pair. Conclusion - a simple operation of replacing the anthers of the steering rods, in the presence of “crooked hands”, may result in the purchase of a new steering mechanism for you. price.

... proceeding to disassembly. the bolt in the cabin.

... massive subframe with a longitudinal beam.

... lower the stretcher on the rack.

... dismantle the rear engine mount.

... remove the plastic clamps holding the wire harness el. amplifier motor. the harness goes into the salon and it is unclear whether there is a connector on the power wires - they did not look for it, it is easier to unscrew the motor from the rail in place and hang it from the body on a hook.

... we carefully disassemble the mechanism - we restore the shaft - we make all the necessary modifications so that the rail does not knock.

Do you hear an unpleasant knock at the front of the car when driving over small potholes? Do the beats go to the steering wheel and increase in amplitude over time? These are clear signs that an urgent need to pay attention to the condition of the steering rack.

Also, one of the signs of its malfunction is that large potholes of the car pass almost silently, but small shagreen - on the contrary. In this case, it is not at all necessary to sign up in the queue at the service station.

Initial diagnostics of serviceability, as well as adjusting the steering rack on a Mitsubishi Lancer with your own hands, is quite easy. Is it possible to repair or replace, and what is the reason for this malfunction, let's try to figure it out.

The reliability of the steering mechanism in Japanese cars is designed for 150-200 thousand km. But these are only approximate indicators that can change in one direction or another.

The steering gear fails for the following reasons:

• high travel speed on uneven roads;
• failure to inspect the rubber anthers of the steering rack leads to the ingress of small particles, with the subsequent destruction of the rubbing elements;
• replacement of the hydraulic fluid, which is carried out from time to time or a poor-quality mixture is used.

You should also pay attention to the above reasons leading to premature repairs because the steering rack is a very expensive part for Japanese cars. Replacing with a used part is a temporary solution to the problem, it costs a little less to restore it, but it is also quite costly. When driving on uneven roads, the seals, rod and slider are depleted.

In order to accurately determine the cause, you need to contact a specialist and check the condition of the steering tips and rods. It is difficult to do this without a special tool and relevant experience. Steering elements (tie rod ends) also become a frequent cause of knocking when driving through shallow holes.

You can check the condition of the ball joints yourself; for this, jack up the left and right front wheel alternately and stagger, holding it with both hands. If no knocking is heard, then everything is in order.

Adjustment of the Lancer steering rack is carried out in order not to aggravate the situation, which may result in the replacement of seals and even overhaul of the entire unit. In this case, it is cheaper to prevent the problem than to eliminate its consequences.

The steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer is tightened with an adjusting bolt that holds the bearing. During the operation of the vehicle, the bearing is weakened and needs to be tightened.

Adjustment procedure:

1. Position the vehicle in a pit and block the front wheels with wheel chocks.
2. Set the steering wheel straight.
3. Remove dust and dirt from the place where the adjusting screw is attached to the steering rack (located at the bottom).
4. Use a white marker to draw a vertical line along the factory locknut and adjusting screw.
5. Using a non-sharp chisel and hammer, loosen the lock nut with gentle counterclockwise blows.
6. While holding the lock nut with a 41 mm wrench, insert the hexagon into the adjusting screw and tighten (clockwise) until the torque wrench reads 23 N / m, and then loosen the screw 30 degrees.
7. Make sure, by easily turning the steering wheel 15-20 degrees, that no knocking is heard.
8. If the knock remains, reduce the screw looseness to 20 degrees, to achieve the disappearance of extraneous sounds.
9. Start the engine and turn it to the extreme positions until it stops, thus checking whether the rail is biting.
10. Tighten the lock nut, taking care that the adjusting screw remains stationary (refer to the vertical marks left during disassembly).

It is important to make this adjustment so as not to overtighten the adjusting screw. The steering wheel will stop beating, but the effort required to turn the steering wheel will increase significantly. In this case, it is not worth relying on the fact that the problem will disappear and that over time it will become easier to turn. The screw must be loosened urgently.

You need to be prepared for the fact that it will be difficult to carry out the adjustment due to the limited space and the lack of a special tool. In the first case, it is better to remove the steering rack together with the subframe, although you can not resort to this, and in the second, to make a device from a 17 mm bolt 10-15 cm long, turning the required screw, after having previously processed the head with an angle machine to the same shape, as with the adjusting screw.

In order not to look for information on how to tighten the steering rack on the Lancer, use these simple tips: watch out for rubber boots. For long-term operation, after washing the car, treat them with a protective silicone spray. If cracks appear on the protective products, immediately replace them with a mandatory change of grease.

Do not hold the steering wheel in the extreme positions for more than 5 seconds. This puts additional stress on the power steering. In winter, when starting to move (especially on an unheated car), smoothly turn the steering wheel, while avoiding driving in extreme positions.

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Consider what the Lancer 10 steering rack consists of, signs of a malfunction of the steering rack, the main causes of breakage and wear of the rails, how best to diagnose a malfunction of the steering rack and repair the steering rack.

Car enthusiasts say: "Without a steering wheel, a car is a tracked tractor." And the steering rack, together with the steering gear, is the most important part of the car. So it should be okay. And listen to the stories: "I drove 40 thousand with a knocking rail", at least inadvertently. Just imagine the situation: a speed of 90 km / h, a sharp turn. Your steering wheel is your own wheel. And this can easily happen if the steering rack is faulty - a mechanism that transfers the steering force to the wheels, and therefore repair or replacement of the steering rack is required.

Steering rack of any car, including steering rack mitsubishi, - not the most complicated mechanism in a car, it consists of three main parts:

• Power steering gear - it transfers the steering force to the wheels;
• Steering rod - a rack is attached to it;
• Movable hinges - on wheels.

And due to its simple and reliable design, it rarely fails. But our roads can “kill” everything, especially if we add aggressive driving style to bad roads in the style: “More speed - fewer holes”.

Even more than the driving style, the lifespan of the rail depends on the brand of car.

It's time for you to go to a car service if, according to your feelings, the steering rack:

• knocks
• the steering wheel does not rotate well
• when rotating, there is a backlash or a whistle is heard
• on a bad road, the steering wheel starts to "beat"
• a hum is heard
• steering rack leaks

You can, of course, unwind it yourself and see it visually, but experts will do it faster and better using high-precision instruments than you can by touch. Therefore, if you are going to carry out, for example, repair of the l200 steering rack, then in order to save time and effort, it is better to contact the service.

Sometimes the problem is solved by adjusting the steering rack. But there are three reasons why it is better to entrust the procedure to a car service.

1) It is impossible for one person to adjust the steering rack.

3) Equipment is required, which is not available in every garage.

For adjustment, the machine is placed on a flyover and the adjusting screw, which is located in the end cover, is tightened.

The screw should be tightened slowly while checking the rudder travel and play. According to GOST, the backlash should not exceed 10º. The master uses a special device - a backlash meter. After adjustment, the machine is tested on the move, and if the steering wheel is tight, the screw is loosened.

Complete replacement of the steering rack of a Mitsubishi is not cheap. Therefore, many thrifty drivers prefer to branded spare parts either Chinese counterparts, or disassembled parts and even remanufactured parts. Such a repair, of course, will cost a penny, but after 3 months, maximum, in six months it will have to be repeated.

By entrusting the repair of the Mitsubishi steering rack to a car service, you will be sure that the repair kit (including bushings, anthers, oil seals, etc.) of normal quality and the repaired mechanism will last a long time, even if analog spare parts for Mitsubishi were used. The car service, in contrast to the flea market, provides a guarantee for its services and is interested in the quality of the repair.

For repair, the steering rack will have to be completely disassembled, washed and cleaned of rust. In garage repairs, the wear of parts is determined "by eye", in a car service - with the help of high-precision instruments, so repairs can be even cheaper than garage repairs. After all, you can make a mistake and recognize as unfit a part that can still serve.

During service repairs, all parts will be checked for beating, consumables will be replaced, anthers will be diagnosed and the condition of the steering rods will be found out.

Repairing a Mitsubishi steering rack in a car service, whether it is a Lancer 10 steering rack, a Mitsubishi Karisma steering rack or another Mitsubishi model, will not take much time. If the rail has already been removed from the car, then the repair will not last more than 2 hours. If dismantling is necessary, repairing the steering rack will take no more than eight hours.

Our regular customers do not have such questions. They come to us because:

• Professionals work here who do not "cheat" motorists for money, but honestly diagnose and fix breakdowns.
• There are all three types of parts: branded, analog and autoparsing, so you can choose the repair that suits you best.
• We give a guarantee for our work.
• Regular customers receive discounts on repairs and maintenance.

And if you are with us for the first time, and have not yet decided why you need to become our regular customer, we will give you just one reason:

Our car service technicians are always happy to help you repair or replace the Mitsubishi steering rack!

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[img]
6. We order a new fluoroplastic bushing from the turner
[img]
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7. Pressing in a new bushing should fit tightly. then insert the shaft. With a new bushing, it should go tighter than with the original. We expose the shaft according to marks or measurements and put the gearbox in place. We assemble the mechanism of the clamping biscuit, tighten the cork until it stops and release it by 1/4 of a turn, lock it
8. Putting everything in reverse order

Bottom line: the rumble in the helmsman decreased by 70%, the steering wheel became tighter (it returns when exiting the turn). But the knocks when the steering wheel was rolling and the rumble in the gearbox remained in the near future, I think to delve into it and find the reason

Brownie Lancer X

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Many owners of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 are faced with the problem of knocking front suspension parts. And although many people most often suspect ball, struts or tie rods, very often the steering rack is the culprit for the knock. How to determine its breakdown and replace, if necessary, we will talk a little later, but now let's analyze the prices for this part.

One of the most expensive options is replacing the rail with the original one. Of course, if you decide to buy the original, you can be sure of its quality, but it will cost you about 250 USD. The price is considerable, but another plus is that you can be sure of its full compliance, you do not have to adjust and adapt something.

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more"

The article of the new rail for lancer x mr491876.

Another way to solve this problem is to purchase a new, but non-original part. You can choose a rail of a reliable, proven brand, at a good price-quality ratio.

In this case, the price can range from, approximately, 5,500 rubles. up to 8,000 rubles. In order to order exactly what you need, use the sites on which, as accurately as possible, you can enter the data of your car.

You need to know exactly the data of the motor and box, otherwise you run the risk of ordering the wrong thing, and being doomed to rework or buy another rail, both of these options will not be cheap.

Well, the most economical option is to replace the rail with a contract one. Many services or Internet portals offer to install used rails and even assure that they have passed diagnostics, restoration and are fully functional. Believe them or not - your business, but if there is a possibility, it is better to find an offer in your city or in its outskirts. So, you will have the opportunity to see with your own eyes what you are giving money for before buying. And you will have to pay approximately 5,000 rubles.

The first thing that can say about the breakage of the rail is a knock when driving over bumps at a low speed. This knock is quite strong and vibrates the steering wheel. Backlash may appear or the steering wheel may not be as smooth. Another symptom is a decrease in the level of hydraulic fluid in the EUR. Although the Lancers are equipped with electric, and not hydraulic boosters, you still need to carefully monitor the fluid level.

How to determine what exactly is causing a crunch or knock on the steering rack? There are two ways.

• First, diagnostics are carried out at the stand or visually, on a removed rail. Of course, this method is more accurate and informative, but also more expensive and time consuming.
• The second option is to visually inspect the rail with an electric amplifier on the pit and by clicking on the parts one by one, try to determine the source of the sound.

The following items should be checked: steering end, tie rod, left and right bushings and bearing. Of course, if the funds allow, and you are not a fan of doing everything with your own hands, then it would be good to contact a reliable service center so that the masters would carry out a full diagnosis and give clear recommendations.

If you managed to accurately determine the cause of the breakdown of the steering rack, and you have found the source of the knock, then you need to replace this part and the knock should disappear. In the case when it is not possible to detect backlash on the parts, the next step is to try to tighten the rail. This should be done on the installed part. The tightening bolt itself can be found on the steering rack through the hood of the car. The problem is that it is in the melt, and when the rail is installed, it is rather difficult to reach it with the head.

Alternatively, you can turn the spanner key on the machine, and then you will get access. Pulling up should be done gradually. Tucking a little, you need to ride the car, if the knock has not disappeared, you need to tighten it again. If the steering wheel stops freely returning the wheels to the level position, and the knock has not disappeared, the tightening will not help you. In this case, it makes no sense to repair the rail, most likely you will have to change it.

In the event of a fluid leak, a common remedy is to replace all seals that deteriorate and dry out over the years. All of these oil seals can be purchased as part of a repair kit that matches your car. The price of a set of oil seals is, on average, about 2,000 rubles. It is very easy to order it on many sites selling auto parts. It's up to you to replace them yourself or contact the service, but it's very difficult to do it yourself and without a special puller.

If your heroic efforts to save the old rail did not help and the knock or leak remained, then there is only one way out - to change it to a new one. A detailed video and a diagram of how to do this are in the network. You should start from the salon. It is necessary, after removing the plastic plug, to disconnect the shaft that leads from the steering wheel to the rack. After that, it is necessary to dismantle the front mudguard and the crankcase protection, and then remove both wheels. Then carefully disconnect the wiring of the electric amplifier, being careful not to damage it. We unscrew the bolts fastening to the pillow and proceed to the removal of the electric motor.

We disconnect the tips and further, remove the subframe from the front side, so that it starts to sag in front and stay in the back. Then you need to unscrew the rail from the pillows. After dismantling all the bolts securing the rail will be completely removed. You will have the opportunity to more closely examine the cause of the breakdown, as well as inspect all parts of this unit for wear and, if necessary, replace everything at once. If the catalog number of the spare part is preserved on the old rail, this will serve as a guarantee that the new rail will fully fit.

After installing a new part, which is produced in the reverse order, it is worth thinking about how to extend its life. Many experienced craftsmen give one simple but important piece of advice. Since moisture, water, dirt and dust from the road, when it gets inside the rail, lead to rapid wear of the part mechanisms, it is important to monitor the condition of the protective boot. If you notice that it is torn or the clamps are loose, it is important to fix it as soon as possible. So, this unit of your car will last much longer.

In almost all modern passenger cars, a rack is installed as the main element of the steering. An alternative worm gear remained on only a few heavy trucks and special equipment. There are reasons for this, which we will not consider.

Let's just say briefly about the advantages of the rack and pinion mechanism. These include:

• high reliability;
• less susceptibility to wear than a worm gear;
• relative ease of maintenance and repair;
• unification of a number of components of the mechanism for most passenger cars.

The latter circumstance makes the repair of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering rack at a price comparable to the cost of similar work on most other cars of the same class, even if we are talking about replacing any of its spare parts. But only if the procedure is carried out at a multidisciplinary service station, and not at a dealer, where prices, as you know, are always higher by at least a quarter.

The steering gear consists of the following components:

• rails - a bar with teeth on one of the sides (it, moving left and right, pushes the swivel levers);
• the levers themselves (left and right): with some of their ends, with the help of bearings with a variable angle, connected to the rack, others with the hubs of the front wheels;
• shaft with cardan mechanism (it transmits rotary motion from the steering wheel);
• the mechanism that converts this rotational motion into reciprocating, is a gear transmission between the rack and the control gear, rigidly fixed at the lower end of the shaft.

So, the last element has the following movable joints of parts:

• between wheel hubs and levers (two connections - left and right);
• between the levers and the rail (also two);
• connection of gear and rack teeth;
• cardan shaft mechanism.

For a total of 6 knots. This is important to know in order to understand how difficult the process of diagnosing this mechanism is. After all, the main reason for the breakdown of the entire system, which makes it necessary to repair the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 rail, is a backlash that can occur in any of the indicated nodes. And most often, it occurs in several places at once and, adding up, gives the so-called total.

The most difficult stage of the repair is diagnostics, during which the master needs to find out which of the units have undergone wear. However, before looking for worn parts, it is necessary to establish whether the cause of the malfunction was a breakdown or deformation of certain components of the steering system. Symptoms of these will be:

• backlash that occurs only in one of the wheel turning sectors;
• extraneous sounds (knocking or grinding) accompanying the rotation of the steering wheel;
• Difficulty turning the steering wheel.

To eliminate the likelihood of these breakdowns, two specialists carry out diagnostics: while the first slowly, from one extreme position to another, rotates the steering wheel of a car mounted on a lift, the second monitors the reaction of the wheels and listens to the sounds, their movement accompanying. If the wheels turn equally smoothly and without undue effort, then the cause of the malfunction is the wear of the mechanism.

To identify a node that requires specialist intervention, you have to consider each separately. Fortunately, there is no need to remove the entire mechanism for this (Lancer, by the way, is generally very easy to maintain - when compared with more expensive cars). Repair of the steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 is no exception to this rule.

After examining each unit separately, and identifying the places of formation of backlash, the master proceeds to the next stage of repair - an attempt to eliminate the problem with "little blood", that is, get rid of the formed gaps by adjusting the joints of parts. It is possible to a certain extent. But if the components of the mechanism are badly worn out and the backlash is large, you cannot do without installing new parts in place of the worn out ones.

How to reduce the cost of repairs without compromising quality?

• or use exclusively branded spare parts (there are no domestic ones among them, since this car is not even going to be assembled in Russia);
• or to install as new parts similar to the original Russian-made parts, which will cost the owner of the car much cheaper.

In a dealer car service, the second option will not even be considered - that is why he is a dealer in order to use only original Japanese-made auto parts.But at a multidisciplinary service station, the repair of the Lancer 10 steering rack leaves such an opportunity, which will significantly reduce the cost of the whole process. And, most importantly, without the slightest damage to quality, because Russian, South Korean, and even Chinese spare parts do not differ from the original ones either in strength or durability. Well, let's say, they differ little - the quality of Chinese steel is still very dubious.

Our service employs experienced highly qualified craftsmen who have to deal with cars of various brands and models, which does not in the least reduce their qualifications, but, on the contrary, helps them find the optimal solution in cases when a non-standard approach to solving a problem that arose during repairs is required cars.

Speaking about the repair of the steering mechanism, it should be noted that the electric power steering, installed on most of the latest generation Lancers, greatly facilitates this process. Since its design is much simpler than that of a hydraulic booster, it is easier for a master to both identify a malfunction and repair the mechanism.

In the event of a breakdown of the electric booster (and only the electric motor or one of the two sensors can fail there), the repair of the Lancer EUR steering rack will consist in replacing the problematic part. Moreover, not necessarily the original one - a high-quality domestic electric motor has no less resource than a Japanese one.

A car is a means of transportation, without which those who have driven at least once cannot imagine themselves.
Today, a huge number of all kinds of models from various manufacturers are produced in the world, but regardless of the country where the car was produced, it, like any other equipment, sooner or later requires repair.

In fact, there are a huge number of components in a car that can fail, and one of these is the steering mechanism, in particular the rack.

If you find a knock, a creak that is not characteristic of the operation of this mechanism, it is best not to panic and not immediately contact the service station.
For example, the repair of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering racks can be done independently, with a standard set of tools at hand and a little time.

As a rule, one of the most problematic areas of this mechanism is the control unit.
We will consider its repair.

Repair of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 Steering Racks begins with removing the protective mechanism from the steering shaft.
It can be unscrewed very simply, without the use of tools, by hand.
Next, a bolt is unscrewed, which attaches the intermediate shaft directly to the cross.

It is very important to remember that when the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering racks are repaired, you first need to set the wheels to the "straight" position, and then lock them.
Failure to do so increases the risk of wire breakage.

But first you need to tackle the steering tips.
It is necessary to remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut, and then hit your finger with a sharp blow with a hammer (but not your own).
After that, unscrew the subframe and 4 bolts from the body, then 3 bolts located on the rear engine mount.
Subsequently, the rail itself with a stretcher will smoothly hang on the stabilizer and levers.

Repair of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering racks does not end there, but it should be noted that it is the correct removal of a failed part that significantly increases the likelihood of a successful repair.

After the rake is removed, you will be able to assess its condition and draw conclusions as to whether it is worth doing further work on your own.

If disassembly is required, then you need to take care of the presence of a workbench, on which the disassembly will be carried out.

But in the overwhelming majority of cases, it is enough to replace the boot, which, in the event of an untimely response, can actually lead to the failure of the rail itself.

The boot can be replaced on your own, but if you need more complex repairs, then you need to disassemble the rail. Below we will indicate the order of actions:
- remove the boot;
- remove the intermediate shaft (you need a key for "12"); - unscrew the control nut;
- unscrew the glass;
- after that it is necessary to put on and fasten the shaft again, so that it can be pulled out together with the bearing.
This is done by lightly hitting the shaft housing with a copper hammer.

Repair of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering racks, as a rule, consists in changing the bearing, this is another component that leads to crackling and uncharacteristic sound.

If we are talking about damage to the sleeve itself or the case, then it will be very difficult to cope on our own.
Such repair of Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering racks requires special equipment and experience in carrying out such work, otherwise you can simply “kill” the whole mechanism.

It should be noted that the steering mechanism is as important a component of the car as its heart, the engine.

We strongly recommend that you regularly monitor its status and pay special attention to this particular node.
Otherwise, Mitsubishi Lancer 10 Steering Rack Repair is a job that could be your worst nightmare.
Indeed, today this operation costs not little, if not more, money.

POWER STEERING
Steering Rack Repair
Moscow, Ostapovskiy proezd, 7
GO TO OLD SITE

Some operations were carried out using rather extreme methods, so everything was at our own risk (everything worked out for us without negative consequences).
Right-left relative to the movement of the machine. Those. the driver's side is left.
The names of the units and components are their own, they may not agree with books and other sources

You will need:

Steering rack repair kit
Litol (grease the balls of the steering rods under the anthers and the universal joint shaft of the steering wheel)
Keys
Gas-burner

1. Remove the wheels, unscrew the steering tips (you do not need to knock them out of the steering knuckle, since the steering rods are spinning when the anther clamps are removed).
2. Remove the air duct to the filter (2 bolts to 10), the left branch pipe to the radiator, the propeller (4 nuts to 10), the plastic protection of the radiator (between the radiator and the engine, 2 bolts to 10).
3. Remove the rubber hose from the top of the rail, unscrew the metal tube from the crossbeam (bolt 12).
4. Unscrew the locking bolt 12 from the steering wheel gimbal to the rack (there are two gimbals, it is easier to remove the lower one, directly from the rack) and spill the gimbal with a VDshka. We lift the car on a lift.
5. Unscrew 4 bolts (like 17, on the left with nuts, on the right without) - fastening the rail.
6. Unscrew the left front axle mounting bracket. Only 5 bolts for 17 or 19. We leave the bracket hanging on the axle shaft - it will not hurt. See photo 01.
7. Unscrew the incoming and outgoing pipes from the power steering from the rail. It was easier for us to do this from the bottom left wheel. See photo 01.

Last edited by Kiread on Wed May 22, 2013 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

Novice Tech Maniac

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Posts: 99
Registration: 24.4.2010
From: Satka
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Auto: Lancer 1.6

Reputation:

1

In general, I decided to create a topic on the steering rack, tk. was sick on this topic, everything was knocking in this area. There were similar topics at the Lanserclub, one of them is "bdynk", when you turn the steering wheel in place and all sorts of knocks are emitted

Well, to the point, we decided to get to this rail, we had to remove the stretcher, it took about 1.5 hours, sorry I didn't take the pictures.

I want to tell you about this "bdynk", at the Lancer club I think that it comes from the place where the splined connection is located in the area of ​​the pedals, but when we lowered the stretcher in this place there were no knocks. And they found it in the place where the crosspiece itself is located, if you go below the splined connection, almost near the rail.

Namely, there is a bolt with a washer above the crosspiece, it can be tightened, but I bought another.Then he checked the river for play, and of course he tightened the rail adjusting bolt with the moment indicated in the manual.

Then I found out that the left steering rod is backlash, and, accordingly, it is also under replacement.
Well, after all the manipulations in the car, there was silence, there was no limit to joy. Now I'm running around this whole thing.

If anyone needs this information, I will be very happy

In this video we will talk about a knock on the steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10. How to tighten the steering rack on this car. About where it was actually knocking. And how we will fix it.

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In almost all modern passenger cars, a rack is installed as the main element of the steering. An alternative worm mechanism remained on only a few heavy trucks and special equipment. There are reasons for this, which we will not consider.

Let's just say briefly about the advantages of the rack and pinion mechanism. These include:

• high reliability;
• less susceptibility to wear than a worm gear;
• relative ease of maintenance and repair;
• unification of a number of components of the mechanism for most passenger cars.

The latter circumstance makes the repair of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 steering rack at a price comparable to the cost of similar work on most other cars of the same class, even if we are talking about replacing any of its spare parts. But only if the procedure is carried out at a multidisciplinary service station, and not at a dealer, where prices, as you know, are always higher by at least a quarter.

The steering gear consists of the following components:

• rails - a bar with teeth on one of the sides (it, moving left and right, pushes the swivel levers);
• the levers themselves (left and right): with some of their ends, with the help of bearings with a variable angle, connected to the rack, others with the hubs of the front wheels;
• shaft with cardan mechanism (it transmits rotary motion from the steering wheel);
• the mechanism that converts this rotational motion into reciprocating, is a gear transmission between the rack and the control gear, rigidly fixed at the lower end of the shaft.

So, the last element has the following movable joints of parts:

• between wheel hubs and levers (two connections - left and right);
• between the levers and the rail (also two);
• connection of gear and rack teeth;
• cardan shaft mechanism.

For a total of 6 knots. This is important to know in order to understand how difficult the process of diagnosing this mechanism is. After all, the main reason for the breakdown of the entire system, which makes it necessary to repair the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 rail, is a backlash that can occur in any of the indicated nodes. And most often, it occurs in several places at once and, adding up, gives the so-called total.

The most difficult stage of the repair is diagnostics, during which the master needs to find out which of the units have undergone wear.However, before looking for worn parts, it is necessary to establish whether the cause of the malfunction was a breakdown or deformation of certain components of the steering system. Symptoms of these will be:

• backlash that occurs only in one of the wheel turning sectors;
• extraneous sounds (knocking or grinding) accompanying the rotation of the steering wheel;
• Difficulty turning the steering wheel.

To eliminate the likelihood of these breakdowns, two specialists carry out diagnostics: while the first slowly, from one extreme position to another, rotates the steering wheel of a car mounted on a lift, the second monitors the reaction of the wheels and listens to the sounds, their movement accompanying. If the wheels turn equally smoothly and without undue effort, then the cause of the malfunction is the wear of the mechanism.

To identify a node that requires specialist intervention, you have to consider each separately. Fortunately, there is no need to remove the entire mechanism for this (Lancer, by the way, is generally very easy to maintain - when compared with more expensive cars). Repair of the steering rack of the Mitsubishi Lancer 10 is no exception to this rule.

After examining each unit separately, and identifying the places of formation of backlash, the master proceeds to the next stage of repair - an attempt to eliminate the problem with "little blood", that is, get rid of the formed gaps by adjusting the joints of parts. This is possible to a certain extent. But if the components of the mechanism are badly worn out and the backlash is large, you cannot do without installing new parts in place of the worn out ones.

How to reduce the cost of repairs without compromising quality?

• or use exclusively branded spare parts (there are no domestic ones among them, since this car is not even going to be assembled in Russia);
• or to install as new parts similar to the original Russian-made parts, which will cost the owner of the car much cheaper.

In a dealer car service, the second option will not even be considered - that is why he is a dealer in order to use only original Japanese-made auto parts. But at a multidisciplinary service station, the repair of the Lancer 10 steering rack leaves such an opportunity that will significantly reduce the cost of the whole process. And, most importantly, without the slightest damage to quality, because Russian, South Korean, and even Chinese spare parts do not differ from the original ones either in strength or durability. Well, let's say, they differ little - the quality of Chinese steel is still very dubious.

Our service employs experienced highly qualified craftsmen who have to deal with cars of various brands and models, which does not in the least reduce their qualifications, but, on the contrary, helps them find the optimal solution in cases when a non-standard approach to solving a problem that arose during repairs is required cars.

Speaking about the repair of the steering mechanism, it should be noted that the electric power steering, installed on most of the latest generation Lancers, greatly facilitates this process. Since its design is much simpler than that of a hydraulic booster, it is easier for a master to both identify a malfunction and repair the mechanism.

In the event of a breakdown of the electric booster (and only the electric motor or one of the two sensors can fail there), the repair of the Lancer EUR steering rack will consist in replacing the problematic part. Moreover, not necessarily the original one - a high-quality domestic electric motor has no less resource than a Japanese one.