A malfunction of the steering is indicated by characteristic knocks, which are accompanied by an unpleasant twitch of the steering wheel on an uneven road. There are two ways out - replacing the steering rack with your own hands or repairing an old rack.
The first option is more reliable, below we will talk about how to do it.
When all the work is done, we jack up one side of the car, remove the wheel and, having installed the supports, lower the car. We do the same on the other side. This frees up access to the steering tips, making it easier to remove the steering rack.
Before unscrewing the steering tips, clean the mounting bolts from dirt with a metal brush, and pour over the WD solution (liquid wrench).
While the liquid is still corroding the rust, we move into the engine compartment and free up access to the steering rack.
Free removal will be hindered by a gas adsorber and an alarm siren (if any). Carefully unscrew the terminals and remove them to the side.
If you change the tips along with the steering, then when dismantling the old ones, you can knock them out with a hammer, if not, then it is better to use a puller.
Using the pliers, remove the key from the fastening nut and unscrew it. We insert the fork-shaped mount under the rubber seal, and put the upper part of the finger onto the tip bolt. We tighten the puller nut until it stops and knock the tip out of the rack mount with a hammer blow.
Remove the steering wheel very carefully so as not to damage the fuel hose or electrical wiring. It is better if you will carry out all the work with an assistant..
The rail is removed - we remove it to the side and start preparing for the installation of a new one.
When connecting the spline part with the steering "worm", you will need an assistant. One guides from the outside, the second connects to the clamp in the passenger compartment. The main thing is that the groove on the slots coincides with the hole in the clamp. Otherwise, you will not be able to insert the fixing bolt.
Be sure to adjust the toe-out after installation.
Before starting work, watch the video on how to remove the steering rack yourself:
VIDEO
We remove the rail from the car. With a leak, it usually looks so dirty, if there is an opportunity, then wash it in a sink with chemistry before disassembling.
Unscrew the tube bolts with a 6 hexagon. Often these hex bolts are ripped off, as I had, I had to unscrew these bolts with a chisel. A pipe wrench can be used.
After removing the tubes, unscrew the boot clamps, remove the boot. We wash the rail cleanly, if we have not done this earlier, we pre-plug the holes with a clean cloth.
Through the hole in the end of the rail for attaching to the body, using a punch or a screwdriver, lightly knock the inner cylinder out of the rail body with light blows, then pull it out.
We unscrew the nut that secures the piston to the rod.
We take out the piston, remember that the washers are on both sides.
We unscrew the cover bolts of the thrust mechanism.
We take out the spring, thrust washer, pressure ring and stops.
Mark with a sharp tool the position of the two rail halves relative to each other (red arrows), unscrew the four bolts connecting the rail halves.
Disconnect the rail halves, take out the rail stem.
A cage with a stuffing box is pressed into the rack housing, it must be knocked out. To do this, make a drift so that it passes in diameter into the hole marked with a red arrow, but rests against the oil seal (green arrow). From the available tools, the diameter of the head from the set of tools fit perfectly.
Stuffing box: clip, old stuffing box, new stuffing box.
We unscrew the two bolts of the spool assembly housing.
We remove the case, do not forget about the washer.
We take out the spool assembly.
We take out the oil seal, it is easily pressed in, and the O-ring.
Press out the oil seal from the body with a suitable mandrel.
Disassembled rail.
We press a new oil seal from the kit into the valve body with a suitable mandrel.
We install "by hand" a new oil seal in the rack housing, change the O-ring to a new one.
We change three rubber rings and one plastic one on the rack cylinder.
We change two O-rings on the rail rod under the bushing. If there is severe wear on the rack bushing, this can cause knocking, it is necessary to replace the bushing, its catalog number ZF 7847035106.
To press the stuffing box assembly into the rail body, you will need a long core. I made it from a long screwdriver, cutting off the handle and sharpening the sting with a grinder. When sharpening, we try not to overheat the sting in order to prevent metal tempering.
Here are the places in the rail body where the punching is done at the factory.
We take a new oil seal from the kit, insert it into the cage.
In order to deliver the stuffing box to the landing site, we insert the rod of the rack into the housing, put the stuffing box on the rod, greasing it abundantly with power steering fluid (do it carefully so as not to damage the lip of the stuffing box), and press the stuffing box into the rack housing with a piece of pipe.
We take out the stem, we punch the body with a manufactured core at three points (green arrows), I additionally punch in three more points (red arrows).
We insert the rod of the rack into the body (do not forget to lubricate everything abundantly), put on the piston with washers, tighten the nut using the thread lock.
We insert the cylinder into the rack housing.
We change the O-ring on the rail body.
We put grease on the rack teeth and the worm, we use the original AOF06300004 grease, Fiol is also possible, I used it.
Putting together a persistent mechanism. We change the O-ring from the kit.If the rail knocked, then you need to change the stops (on the left in the photo), No. 30 according to the scheme. Plastic washers wear out on them. The stops are available in spare parts separately, their number according to VAG 443419148. When assembling the unit, we use the same grease.
We combine the marks that were applied earlier on the rail body, tighten the bolts connecting the rail halves, use the thread lock.
We take a new boot with clamps, I used Lemforder boot number 3012001, it comes with two clamps. VAG cover number 43141983.
We put the boot on the rail, maintain the required distance from the boot to the sleeve, fix the clamps.
We fasten the tubes to the rail, replace the O-rings with new ones from the kit.
Railing scheme from the ZF catalog. The parts included in the ZF repair kit, kit number 7847633009, are underlined in red. You can use the original repair kit, VAG number 4A1498020, for the Servotronic rail, VAG repair kit number 4A1498020A. When rebuilding the rack, I did not change the parts from the repair kit number 15, 16, 87, 88 - these are the sealing elements of the spool and piston, since the rack worked flawlessly, but I still did not understand how to replace these parts without damaging them - they are plastic and not stretched.
A leak appeared on the steering rack of the Audi 100, therefore a repair kit was purchased and produced steering rack repair , namely: disassembly, bulkhead and reassembly.
To repair the rail yourself, you will need:
repair kit can be 443498020A,
2 liters of liquid G002 or equivalent (Febi 6162),
rubber boot of the rack.
And from the tools you will need:
hexagon to "6",
heads with extensions,
drift,
keys to "10" and "13",
hammer,
gasoline (for flushing),
rags.
It is not difficult to remove the rail from the car, but it is much more difficult to repair the steering rack of the Audi 100 (disassemble, wash, change and assemble). Therefore, this photo report will be quite useful to look through.
A leak appeared on the steering rack of the Audi 100, therefore a repair kit was purchased and produced steering rack repair , namely: disassembly, bulkhead and reassembly.
To repair the rail yourself, you will need:
repair kit can be 443 498 020A Febi,
2 liters of liquid G002 or equivalent (Febi 6162),
rubber boot of the rack.
And from the tools you will need:
hexagon to "6",
heads with extensions,
drift,
keys to "10" and "13",
hammer,
gasoline (for flushing),
rags.
Removing the rail from the car is not difficult, but repairing the steering rack of the Audi 100 (disassembling, washing, changing and assembling) is much more difficult. Therefore, this photo report will be quite useful to look through.
Today's article will be devoted to repair steering rack audi a4, and more specifically: what constituent elements does this unit consist of, what reasons can cause its failure and what is the repair process. We will talk about how to repair the rail - to remove and install it in future articles. The main integral elements of the rail are:
crankcase;
toothed shaft;
support sleeve;
spool mechanism.
In order to repair a steering rack, you need not only special equipment, but also sufficient experience, since the repair process is rather complicated. Directly repairing the rail involves the following steps:
disassembly of the rail, flushing and troubleshooting of parts;
parts that cannot be restored are replaced;
cleaning and checking the rack gear shaft;
replacement of oil seals, anthers, rings and other parts is performed.
Usually about repairing the steering rack on audi a4 drivers think about when a leak appears from the case of the power steering fluid rack. This problem can be identified by the presence of oil stains under the vehicle. One of the reasons to think that some kind of malfunction has arisen with the steering rack is the appearance of the gravity of the steering wheel. To identify this malfunction on a special stand, the rail is tested under high pressure of about 160 atmospheres. As mentioned above, the repair of the rail involves the replacement of O-rings, bushings, oil seals, anthers, seals that are out of order.If the shaft is corroded or there are traces of mechanical damage on it, grinding is necessary. Further, in order to restore the nominal dimensions of the shaft, thermal and gas spraying is applied to it.
Also, one of the reasons for repairing the steering rack is the presence of backlash. Backlash can occur both in the rack mechanism itself, and due to a faulty steering column cross. If this problem occurs, it is necessary to disassemble the steering rack completely. After replacing the corresponding parts, the rack is adjusted at the stand. In addition to the listed problems, there may also be extraneous noises in the steering rack, which again indicates the need for its repair. A kickback to the steering wheel can usually be observed. This malfunction occurs in the event of mechanical wear of the anthers of the rack or slide bushings. Worn parts are replaced, the rail after repair is adjusted on a special stand.
I would also like to dwell a little on the manufacturers of steering racks for Audi cars. The slats on the Audi were installed from ZF, Koyo and SMI. Steering racks from ZF are generally reliable, but they corrode due to the appearance of condensation. As a result, the oil seals become unusable. The slats from Koyo and SMI are less susceptible to corrosion, but the crankcase of this unit is characterized by increased wear. The malfunction manifests itself in the form of biting the steering wheel when turning to one side, and possibly both. This malfunction can be eliminated by repairing or replacing the crankcase. If we talk about the possibility of repairing steering racks, then the ZF company, unlike Koyo and SMI, offers components for its products, which makes it possible to fulfill the order of the necessary part. Faced with the repair of the steering rack, it is better to give preference to remanufactured than used ones, which are bought, for example, during disassembly. In the first case, you will be given at least some guarantee. Now, in the event of the above malfunctions, you will know what is needed steering rack repair and as with any other detail, it is not worth delaying too much with it.
In most cases, car owners pay attention to such an element as the steering rack of the Audi A6 C4 when unpleasant knocks appear in the area of the front end. At first, this knock is not very strong, but over time it increases, which is reflected in the steering wheel, and this is clearly visible on uneven roads. This is just a sign that the problem is with the steering rack.
In addition to knocking, a malfunction can also manifest itself in the form of fluid leakage from the rail. As a result, this mechanism must either be repaired or replaced with a new one, which does not suit everyone because of the cost. And in this case it is better to install a quality repaired rail than just buying a used one, since no one will give a guarantee for a used one. The main reason for rack wear is the poor quality of the roads, as well as the driving behavior of the car. Among other things, you need to periodically inspect the rail for leaks. If the car is operated with torn anthers, then this does not bode well for a long operation of this unit.
A torn boot, even not necessarily strong, a small hole is enough, leads to the ingress of dirt inside, which significantly increases the wear of the seals and the rail begins to leak. In addition to the above reasons, the failure of the unit in question may be due to the left turned out wheels in the winter. Failure to change the hydraulic fluid will also lead to premature failure. Basically, it all depends on the driver.
In most cases, the seals wear out, corrosion appears on the working part of the shaft, corrosion of the screw, the distributor crankcase wears out, the central tooth wears out.Before disassembling the rail, it must be thoroughly washed. Next, the wear of the rod and sleeve is measured, the seals are checked. When repairing the rail, all seals should be replaced. Corrosion of the above-described elements is due to the presence of condensation inside the rail, and since the surface of these elements is bare metal, rust appears accordingly. The relatively quick failure of the steering rack in the conditions of our country is explained by the fact that in Europe cars are designed for their own roads. Naturally, the materials for the bushings are appropriate.
In general, the resource of the steering rack is quite large, but again it depends on the driving style and service. If the rail was repaired with high quality, then its resource is 70% of the installation of a new part. As is clear from the article, the steering rack is repairable. But there are also cases when repairs are absolutely not profitable. It is easier in such situations to purchase a new part.
As recommendations, the following can be given: you need to monitor the condition of the anthers. This is perhaps one of the most important points. Avoid holding the steering wheel in the extreme left position for more than 5 seconds. Also, in extreme positions, it is not necessary to develop high engine speeds. Besides that the power steering pump is worn out , this is how the power steering system becomes dirty, the load on the steering gear and on the steering rack parts increases, and this also leads to a breakdown of the power steering seals.
In winter, to leave the parking lot, you do not need to turn the steering wheel right after the engine has warmed up. The steering wheel needs to be twisted in smooth movements. This allows the oil in the hydraulic system of this mechanism to be heated. When carrying out work in the service, it will not be superfluous to monitor the operations performed that affect the steering, since it is a fairly responsible unit.
_________________
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all this is already available on the links above, I just don’t eat the groove on the washer?
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- Build a garage
Tell me, can anyone come across, today I took off the rail I wanted to go through, I even bought a repair kit, and the bolts numbered 40 41 42. d = A37000E2 for an internal hexagon, the edges are not unscrewed from time to time. I looked at the catalog, they are 200r each, that is, 4 bolts 800r and wait two weeks, by the way I unscrewed my own with a hammer and a chisel, but somehow it’s scary to put them back in the same way. and suddenly it flows, it's back to shoot. who got out of the situation?
As it is sad 700r rem kit 800r bolts 400 anther. Can it be easier to take the rail from the disassembly? What do you think?
Goust_TAB »05 Jul 2013, 12:34
Goust_TAB
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Cheshkin »06 Jul 2013, 00:20
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Dmitriy777 »19 Sep 2013, 10:28
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Shibich »26 Sep 2013, 12:22
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vin »10 Nov 2013, 21:23
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MaksimBLR »12 Apr 2014, 23:20
We will be happy to help our comrades Audyushniki! Club members 10% discount on services.
In our center, the steering rack is repaired based on the results of preliminary diagnostics. The steering rack is cleaned of contamination, the rack being repaired is completely disassembled, all its parts are cleaned, seals and bearings are replaced with new ones. The status of its operation is checked in accordance with the factory requirements. Only original components are used for repairs. Corrosion is carefully removed from the rack shaft, it is checked for runout, the condition of the gearing is monitored, and after the repair is completed, the control diagnostics of the operability of the repaired steering rack is carried out on a hydraulic test bench with full imitation of loads. Further, the rail body is covered with a polymer coating. Depending on the initial state of the steering rack or gearbox, the repair may take one to two days.
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Sfinx »Apr 22, 2014 11:29 pm
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Beaves »22 Jul 2014, 11:08
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Plasma "22 Jul 2014, 11:53
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Nikolaj-g »20 Jul 2015, 08:09
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Plasma »20 Jul 2015, 09:09
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Nikolaj-g "20 Jul 2015, 13:50
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red scorpion »21 Sep 2015, 11:23
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Evgen 1977 »24 Apr 2016, 19:28
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Nikolaj-g »02 May 2016, 13:24
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iins »28 Jul 2016, 21:05
Recently, the steering rack leaked in my Audi A4 B5. I turned to Vitaly. Helped to solve the problem. I explained everything. Recommend.
iins
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The steering rack is a reliable unit of the car, and if the rules of operation are observed, it can serve for many, many years. But in the conditions of the Russian climate and Russian roads, the rail is subjected to loads that lead to its wear and tear and damage many times faster.
The appearance of a leak on the Audi 100 is an alarming signal in which you should not postpone the repair. The sooner we start work on the rehabilitation of the unit, the less blood we can get by. In addition, you can fix the rail yourself, having taken care of the availability of a repair kit and a good assistant in advance.
What is needed for repair
- Repair kit
From the tools we need:
- keys for 10 and 13
Dismantling the steering rack Audi 100
Video (click to play).
May the repaired rail serve you for many years and good luck on the road!
