Steering rack do-it-yourself repair opel

The mechanism of the car, which serves to control the steering traction of the wheels, is called the steering rack. The steering rack of the Opel Astra h is no exception. This device transmits the driver's effort to the front wheels of the car, forcing them to move synchronously in the right direction and ensuring the correct movement of the car when cornering. The pictures below show the Opel Astra h steering rack and a diagram of the device.

The mechanism operates in several stages:

• I - rotary device rotates shaft # 27;
• II - the rotation is transferred to part # 21;
• III - part # 21 moves the toothed rack (# 16) inside the device body (# 17);
• IV - No. 16 moves the steering rods No. 5 and No. 7;
• V - steering rods move the levers (No. 3) of the wheels.

Let's say a few words about power steering in a separate line. The machines use these devices of two types:

Power steering wheel (hereinafter referred to as GU) basically works by transferring power from the engine to the gear rack through a hydraulic device. It is a pump that creates pressure in the HU system. Operates when the engine is running.

Valves on the shaft allow oil to pass through the oil lines. Where the oil goes depends on the steering side. This scheme ensures that the wheels turn in the desired direction without unnecessary effort.
Malfunctions of a steering wheel with PG can be in:

• pump
• distributor valves
• cylinder piston system
• cylinder seals
• drive belt

The electric motor makes the gear rotate. She moves the toothed shaft. The direction of rotation sensors send a corresponding signal to the control unit. The motor, in accordance with the received signal, moves the rail in the desired direction.
An electric amplifier (hereinafter referred to as EP) is a rather reliable device of a machine, but breakdowns occur in it too. For example, they can:

Video (click to play).

• programs crash
• fail the rotary encoder

Unlike a GU, an electric amplifier can work without turning on the engine. The structure of the mechanism is shown in Figure 4.

It is best to repair the steering wheel at a reputable maintenance station, do not contact private traders, so as not to spoil the part completely.

For example, to find out if play is a deviation from the norm, you need to know the standard embedded in the part. Usually this figure is equal to 9-10 degrees. To measure it, you need a special device - a backlash. If you do not have one, contact the service station.

As soon as the driver feels that he has to increase the load on the steering wheel when cornering, it's time to contact a car service.
The knock and hum in the mechanism should become an alarm bell.
One hundred percent sign of the need to visit a car service is a leaking working fluid.
Backlash during wheel movement occurs on both mechanical and hydraulic drives.

The gear and toothed base are the most stressed in the steering rack. Most breakdowns happen with this part of the unit. Among the most common breakdown options, there are:

• Tie rod end wear
• tooth wear
• mechanical destruction of teeth

Usually, the last two problems are eliminated by adjusting the nut that controls the stop.
If the teeth themselves are broken, you need to change either the rack or gear.
In case of wear of parts, the master simply replaces them.

Backlash is formed due to poor quality road surface, which we all have to put up with. Driving through obstacles in the form of "speed bumps", concrete joints and other irregularities has a detrimental effect on the function of the steering rack Opel Astra h. Driving style is also not the least factor.

After 10-15 years of operation, almost every car has difficulties with steering. Foreign manufacturers give an unambiguous recommendation to their customers: replace the device.

But it is not always possible to find the necessary "native" detail. Therefore, in order to eliminate the backlash on the steering wheel, a "tightening" of the mechanism is often used. But, doing it, you need to remember that the resource of the reducer is not infinite.

If there is a backlash (gap) in the engagement of the steering rack, you need to use the pressure springs.
The steering rack of a car is adjusted in order to eliminate all gaps in the mechanism, so that the car easily and clearly obeys the driver's effort.
Usually at the service station, the masters tighten the steering rack and lubricate it.
There are two ways to adjust:

To eliminate the gap, which turned out to be above the standard deviation rate, you need to adjust the auto gear mechanism - tighten the required screw in the steering rack end cover. To carry out this manipulation, an overpass is used. If not, you can jack the car up.
Having made a mark, the master will remove the locknut. Using a key for 18, the device is slightly squeezed. The main thing is to do it slowly, without sudden movements - first by 15–20 degrees, after which the operation of the steering is checked. If the result is unsatisfactory, the manipulation is repeated.
After the end of the "tightening" the car must be tested in motion. If everything is done correctly, then the knocking in the mechanism will disappear, and the steering wheel will give in smoothly.

To repair the steering rack in Opel Astra h is best done by professionals working in car services.
The masters of our service station will correctly diagnose the breakdown and promptly eliminate the malfunction. Based on the results of the diagnosis, a decision is made on what exactly needs to be done:

• restore the device at a special stand
• replace

Carrying out repair work, the masters will perform the following actions:

• • completely disassemble the unit
  • check the shaft for corrosion, runout
  • assess the condition of the gear clutch, seals and oil seals
  • appreciate the condition of the hull

  After repair, the rail is installed on a special stand that simulates control. This procedure makes it possible to understand how well the work was carried out, what is the function of the part after restoration.
  If the master is satisfied and has not found any defects, then the device is put into the car.

  The specialists of our car service will definitely replace the fluid in the hydraulic booster, if necessary, they will pump the system. After the parts are replaced, the employees will also establish the wheel alignment angles.

  There are many nuances and pitfalls in the operation of a car. And only regular monitoring of the technical condition of the iron horse will help to extend its service life. Control of the functionality of the main parts will provide the driver and passengers with safety while driving. In the Opel Astra, the steering rack is responsible for the reliability of steering wheel control when cornering. And it is impossible to treat the issue of its functioning carelessly.
  At the slightest suspicion of a malfunction, immediately drive the car to the service station to the specialists who will help you solve the problem even before it leads to a tragedy on the road.

  

  Although if there is a burning smell, then most likely oil flows through the oil seal in the egura pump. See if there are any pads on the rail boot yet. If there are no leaks, then most likely a pump.

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  The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam. And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness

  Although if there is a burning smell, then most likely oil flows through the oil seal in the egura pump. See if there are any pads on the rail boot yet. If there are no leaks, then most likely a pump.

  The service technician poured the liquid in the bottle, as you describe it, into the EGUR liquid tank. True, one can. And the bubbles were really small and looked like foam.And what does “pump” mean? I apologize for my denseness

  And if, after all, there is an oil seal, can it only be changed or the pump assembly changes immediately?

  1. Remove the oil tank cap

  2. Fill with special oil up to the upper mark on the dipstick in the oil tank
  Indication: To avoid overfilling with oil, reattach the dipstick cap to the reservoir and remove it to check the oil level.

  3. Install the cap on the oil tank

  4. Remove air from the electro-hydraulic power unit by starting and stopping the engine three times
  Indication: Before each next start, make a short pause.

  5. Start the engine and, with the engine running, bleed the air by turning the steering control from left to right three times until it stops.

  In the original, the rem for Astra looks like this:

  1 F-00358 Oil seal 29.00 / 43.00 * 7.00 type 0M pcs. 1,000
  2 F-00558 Oil seal 20.00 / 30.20 * 5.00 / 6.00 type 1PM pcs. 1,000
  3 M-01301 Teflon ring O35.6 × 38.2 S2 type 1 pc. 4,000
  4 L-10014 Steering rack bushing with power steering 24.00 / 26.00 / 35.00 * 2.50 / 13.70 type 5B pcs. 1,000
  5 F-00231 Oil seal 24.00 / 41.00 * 8.50 type 7V 1 pc. 2,000
  6 O-02620-MSG Rubber O-ring C1,5 d1 31 pcs. 4,000
  7 O-02930-MSG Rubber O-ring C3 d1 31 pcs. 1,000
  8 O-02004-MSG Rubber ring O-section C1.68 d1 5.41 pcs. 4,000

  Message Ollegg 06 Dec 2010 19:44

  So I also decided to stay in the memory of the club with a photo report, coupled with some systematization and analysis of data on the Saginaw steering rack with power steering. Since I was told that the rail is rare and there is nothing on it, when I was looking for oil seals, I hope the information will be useful to someone else. There will be many letters.

  Part 1. We disassemble.
  the beginning of the parsing is well described by Yug (the rake is the same):
  ... 19 & t = 76862 and. ic = 10453.0
  plus you can learn a lot in the topic “The steering rack is loose”:
  ... 19 & t = 63517
  so at first I will repeat myself a little, but with my own pictures.

  Further, I have not found the parsing process in detail anywhere by topic. To unscrew the hydraulic cylinder nut, you will need a large vice and a good gas wrench of at least 2 numbers. We clamp the rack body in a vice (it is possible without wooden gaskets, it is definitely clamped in only one position, and it is difficult to crush the body, if not overdo it) and without fanaticism, but confidently (tightly tightened) we turn the nut. In my picture, I’m no longer in the grip:
  

  
  After that, the hydraulic cylinder, together with the rail, comes out of the body, we take it by the rail and, without fear, pull it out of the cylinder of the hydraulic cylinder. Here it is:
  
  At the end of the rail we see a nut, unscrew it and successively remove the piston, bushing with oil seal and washer.

  Now you need to knock out the cover-plug from the other side of the rail. This can be done either with a suitable fittings / pipe / crowbar or the rail itself with a bolt screwed into it. In the process of knocking out, the plug will most likely fall apart, and it will be necessary to knock out the rest:
  

  
  You can remove the sleeve:
  
  I did this with a long bolt and nut and two matching washers. The process, I think, is clear to those who have changed the wheel bearing at least once.
  If the task is only to change the oil seals, then the plug and the bushing need not be knocked out!
  So, the disassembled rake:
  
  I didn’t manage to figure out how to separate the shaft housing from the rack housing in order to get to the internal oil seal, it looks like it is pressed in and is somehow locked under plastic "seals", which are quite strong.
  
  Based on the logic and design of the rail, this should be the most problem-free oil seal and does not flow through it, since there should not be high oil pressure in its area with serviceable shaft camshaft sealing rings (although, perhaps, I did not understand the device correctly):
  
  here are a couple of links on the topic
  ... eniya.html
  

  Part 3. Required spare parts.
  In general, there was a kind of repair kit for this rail with the number 2075005 / S, but I could not get it - I could not find it in online stores, in the car market (Marshal on Zhukov) they threw up their hands. The city, of course, is big and you can probably buy somewhere, but you won't go everywhere.

  So, the oil seal, which is in the bushing of the hydraulic tank, size 12x27x10, tricky, with a plastic bushing inside. On the oil seal 7849915 EP is written, I could only buy it separately at the car market, for as much as 600 rubles. I expected to buy an oil seal on the shaft in an RTI store (in the car market I was offered this for 700r). I had to roll up our sleeves and look for information.I came across that there is a Corteco oil seal with such dimensions under the number 19029807B (on Exist it costs about 350r). Most likely, it was sold to me (how many times did I promise to buy something on the Marshal.).
  Also in the RTI store they picked up a ring on a sleeve, it cost a penny, an inner diameter of 28.5 mm. A bit thicker than necessary, but got up later without problems. So, an oil seal with a ring:
  

  External shaft seal, marking on it IPC 26014746 size 20x40x6 (in fact, not 40, but 39.8 mm). By this number, Exist offers an Opel oil seal 0904588 (somewhere for $ 14), most likely what you need. I bought an oil seal with dimensions 20x40x7 in the RTI store, but I did not dare to install it by twisting it in my hands. According to the Corteco catalog, the following oil seals fall under this size (price in rubles for Exist):
  19018211 BASL. 19.8 × 39.7 × 6.35 RUB 85
  12001157 BASLVI. 20x40x7 188p
  12010826 BAD. 20x40x7 283p
  12011118 BASL. 20x40x7 66p
  I decided to buy the first oil seal, got up without problems, so the number 19018211B and a photo of all three (original / from the magician RTI / Corteco):
  

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  Further, instead of a broken plug, a new one is needed, fits from a rail without a G / U, Opel 0902554 or Chevrolet Daewoo 07849949 - Exist brought for 340 rubles, and as much as 200 ml of original Opel grease 1948588 for steering mechanisms for only 150 rubles:
  

  If you need a boot, order by the Opel number 0902829 (on the boot itself, the GM number 26021070), if you need bearings, here are their markings and dimensions:
  EMMM TCRR 09-53313 20 × 37.5 × 10
  6200S NMB 10x30x8

  Part 4. Putting everything back.
  The assembly process proceeds in the reverse order. Before assembly, of course, everything needs to be cleaned and washed. To facilitate installation, we lubricate all the parts with ATF, and the teeth of the shaft and racks, plus the plunger and the lower shaft bearing, with the grease purchased above, or whatever you find. and we do not regret lubrication. We also remove the oil seal from the cylinder sleeve with two self-tapping screws, and press the new one using a bolt with a nut and two washers - everything turns out smoothly, easily and quickly. The ring also changes without problems, the photo before the replacement:
  

  
  Before tightening the hydraulic cylinder nut, I screwed the pipelines into place, plus I made sure that the pre-set marks were aligned. The shaft, perhaps, will not fall into place right away - you will have to tinker. The upper shaft seal is carefully driven in using the upper washer and the old oil seal as a mandrel. For the boot, you will need two new clamps for a diameter of 65 mm, i.e. by 50-70.

  Removal, overhaul and installation of the steering mechanism

  Assembling the steering gear

  1 - the Epiploon
  2 - the Screw (7 Nm)
  3 - a spring washer
  4 - the crankcase cover
  5 - the O-ring
  6 - the Sealing gasket
  7 - Adjusting washers
  8 - Ball bearing
  9 - the Gear
  10 - a toothed rack

  11 - the Bushing
  12 - the Lock ring
  13 - the Carter of the steering mechanism
  14 - Support washer
  15 - the Spring
  16 - Adjusting shims
  17 - the Sealing gasket
  18 - the Cover
  19 - a spring washer
  20 - Bolt (7 Nm)

  Steering gear housing

  1 - Cardan intermediate shaft of the steering rack
  2 - Bolt (5 Nm)
  3 - Protective sheet
  4 - the Sealing gasket
  5 - the Epiploon
  6 - Nut (60 Nm)
  7 - the End of the transverse tie rod
  8 - the Lock ring
  9 - a protective cover of the ball joint
  10 - Ring
  11 - Crown nut

  12 - Cotter pin
  13 - the Left steering rod
  14 - the Clamp
  15 - Protective cover
  16 - Connecting link
  17 - the Carter of the steering mechanism
  18 - Rubber cushion
  19 - the Collar of a rubber cushion
  20 - Bolt (25 Nm)
  22 - the Right steering rod

  Power Steering Component Locations

  1 - the Steering pump
  2 - Tank

  3 - a steering gear with a distributor and a power cylinder

  Power steering gear

  1 - Power cylinder
  2 - Rack transmission
  3 - the valve-distributor

  4 - Tank
  5 - the Steering pump

  1 - Rotor
  2 - Stator
  3 - Housing

  4 - the Cover
  5 - Pulley flange
  6 - the Safety valve

  Models without power steering

  The rack and pinion drive converts the steering column into movement of the rods that turn the steering wheels of the vehicle.

  The steering box is made of aluminum alloy. The transmission consists of a pinion drive shaft and a toothed rack.

  The steering gear shaft is equipped with a pinion and is installed in the rack and pinion housing in two bearings of the PLC 03-29 / 1 type.The shaft assembly is in constant engagement with a toothed rack rigidly connected to the steering rods. Rotation of the shaft causes the rack to move to the right or left. Together with the rack, the steering rods also move, forcing the front wheels of the car to turn.

  The steering gear housing is closed from above with a cover fixed with two M6x20 bolts. The cover is installed on the gasket. A hole is provided in the middle of the crankcase through which the steering shaft drive shaft passes. In order to seal the assembly, a 17x28x7 oil seal is installed in the hole.

  In order to select the backlash of the shaft bearings, adjusting washers with a thickness of 0.1 and 0.2 mm are used.

  The side hole in the crankcase is also closed with a cover, which is fastened with two M6x20 bolts. A sealing gasket is installed under the cover. A bolt passes through the hole in the middle of the cover, designed to adjust the clearance in the engagement of the shaft with the gear rack. The position of the bolt is fixed with a lock nut. The required meshing clearance is maintained by a spring-loaded cracker and equipped with a 28x20 O-ring.

  The right side of the steering box is a tube with a bushing seated inside. A toothed rack is placed in the sleeve. The ends of the rack are connected to the steering rods.

  Protective rubber boots keep dirt out of the steering gear and prevent grease from filling the crankcase from leaking out.

  The steering gear is attached to the bracket by a cross member of the front suspension beam on two rubber mounts that are installed in clips. Each of the clips is attached with two M8x20 bolts. Both the legs and the clips are different from each other (larger components are installed closer to the steering gear).

  Power steering models

  Power steering elements are manufactured by TRW Dusseldorf.

  The system includes a rack and pinion steering gear integrated in one housing with a power cylinder and a control valve, a steering pump, a hydraulic fluid reservoir and connecting hydraulic lines.

  The tie rods are somewhat shorter than those used on models with a manual steering gear. Full steering wheel travel (lock-to-lock) is 3.0 turns (versus 3.6 turns in manual models). The decrease in the number of shaft revolutions is associated with a lower gear ratio of the rack and pinion mechanism.

  In view of the foregoing, in the event of a failure of the power steering system, the steering continues to work, however, it requires a lot of effort when making turns.

  When the wheel hits an obstacle (for example, a curb or a stone), the control valve tends to move to the middle position, the fluid pressure decreases, and the effort on the steering gear increases. The driver tries to keep the wheels in the desired position; in this case, the distributor valve is displaced from the middle position and directs the fluid flow into the corresponding cylinder cavity, preventing the rail from moving. This provides feedback from the wheels to the driver.

  The working path of the hydraulic booster system is filled with a special liquid Pentosin CHF 11 S in the amount of 0.9 l, which simultaneously serves as a lubricant for the components of the steering gear and pump. The hydraulic lines between the pump, control valve, power cylinder and hydraulic reservoir are made of metal pipes and rubber hoses. Each section is equipped with special nipples.

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  The main working element of the system is the steering vane pump. A rotor with movable plates rotates in a specially shaped stator. When the pump is operating, liquid enters from the vacuum side, enters the chamber formed by the rotor plates and stator walls.The volume of the chamber gradually decreases as the rotor turns, the pressure of the liquid increases and it begins to be pushed through the connecting line into the distributor valve. When the maximum allowable pressure is exceeded, a safety valve is triggered, which connects the working cavity with the vacuum chamber. In this case, the pressure drops abruptly. The maximum pump performance is achieved at a rotor speed of 500 to 700 rpm. The maximum head developed by the pump is 20 kPa. The pump is driven by a multi-ribbed belt, which is also used in parallel to drive the K / V compressor, generator and pump.

  The power cylinder, combined with the steering gear and the distributor valve, is attached to the suspension cross member with M10x1.25 bolts (as opposed to M8 bolts in the case of a manual steering mechanism).

  The power steering is equipped with diesel models and 1.6 liter petrol models. The only difference is in the route of the connecting lines.

  1. In the passenger compartment, give back the fastening nuts and remove the foot stop assembly from the clutch pedal.

  2. If appropriate, fold back the carpet, remove the screw and nut that secure the steering column base trim cover. Remove the cover to provide access to the lower propeller joint of the intermediate shaft.
  3. Using paint or a marker, mark the position of the pivot in relation to the rack and pinion drive gear, then remove the pinch bolt of the pivot assembly.
  4. Loosen the nuts, remove the washers and loosen the sealing plate and gasket installed around the drive gear.

  A damaged gasket must be replaced.

  5. Apply the parking brake firmly, then jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on the struts. Remove both front wheels.
  6. Remove the cotter pins, then give the nuts securing the ends of the steering rods to the hub assemblies. Release the tips from the hub pivot arms - use a ball joint puller if necessary.

  Models without power steering

  1. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the steering gear clips from the subframe.
  2. Separate the rack and pinion assembly from the intermediate shaft and remove it from under the vehicle. Remove the rubber mounts from the steering rack (pads are not interchangeable). Remove the sealing plate with the gasket from the passenger compartment.

  Power steering models

  1. To minimize the loss of hydraulic fluid, use special clamps or clamps to clamp the supply and return hoses near the reservoir of the steering pump.
  2. After marking the connectors, unscrew the fitting bolts on the steering gear assembly (prepare a drain container to collect the leaking hydraulic fluid). Disconnect both hoses and remove the sealing washers.

  During assembly, the sealing washers must be replaced without fail. Immediately plug open hose ends and steering housing openings to minimize hydraulic fluid loss and to prevent dirt from entering the system.

  3. Release the hydraulic hoses from the intermediate clips and move them away from the steering gear assembly.
  4. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the rack and pinion fastening clamps from the subframe.
  5. Separate the rack and pinion assembly from the intermediate shaft and remove it from under the vehicle. Remove the rubber mounts from the steering rack (pads are not interchangeable). Remove the sealing plate with the gasket from the passenger compartment.

  a) Remove the clamps for securing the rubber covers;
  b) Bend the edges of the covers and drain the oil from the crankcase into a clean container;
  c) Move the covers towards the ends of the steering rods;
  d) Bend back the flats of the flat lock washers securing the nuts at the ends of the rack;
  e) Using a screwdriver, bend the recess on the edge of the adapter sleeve in the rail groove;
  f) Give back the nuts and disconnect from the thrust bar;
  g) Unscrew the two bolts securing the side cover to the crankcase, remove the spring, cracker and rubber O-ring;
  h) Remove the steering gear shaft with the upper bearing from the crankcase (clamp the shaft in a vice with soft jaws and pull on the crankcase; if necessary, use a soft hammer);
  i) Using a puller, remove the bearing from the shaft;
  j) Remove the gear rack from the steering box;
  k) Using a special tool, remove the lower bearing from the crankcase.

  8. After replacing faulty components, reassemble the mechanism:

  Power steering models

  1. Follow the procedures in Removal.
  2. Install new sealing washers on both sides of the hydraulic hose union, then install the union bolts and tighten to the required torque without removing the clamps / clamps from the hoses.
  3. Reinstall the wheels, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the required torque.
  4. Add fresh hydraulic fluid to the reservoir of the steering pump (see Section Removing air locks from the hydraulic path of the power steering system).
  5. Finally, check the angles of the front wheels, if necessary, make the appropriate adjustment (see Section Car wheel alignment angles - general information).

  

  repair and diagnostics of the engine.

  To carry out computer diagnostics of the Opel Meriva engine, a system scanner is used, which means that the steering racks wear out the supports much more often and the fastening of the adjusting screws is loosened. Opel Meriva.

  In the event that hidden wear of the details is found, it is better to carry out a small repair of the Opel steering rack in a timely manner than to expect, at a time when it will be necessary to completely create a replacement for this car unit. Opel Meriva steering racks, power steering purchase / repair in Moscow You have the opportunity to determine the prices for steering racks in the domestic price page, if you have not found the steering rack you are interested in, or you have the opportunity to call the power steering by phone in the contacts section.

  Domestic managers will select the necessary steering rack or power steering for you. The skilled car owner was faced with the need to replace the details responsible for the operation of the control complex when testing cars.

  The need to purchase either power steering steering wheel and repair rails for all modifications of the car Opel Meriva: Meriva (T3000) (2002 - present) will not be difficult if you come to a domestic company. In a domestic company, the steering rack may have been ordered and delivered on time.

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  Domestic mechanics will be able to perform work on replacing mechanisms in any area of ​​Moscow, which creates tangible convenience for the citizens of the capital. Completing any brand of cars will not lead to if you accept the answer to purchase a steering rack for an Opel Meriva in Moscow at domestic points of sale.

  Domestic service experts will be able to replace parts in a short time, which can significantly reduce the vehicle downtime. It is impossible not to single out the low price of the steering rack for the Opel Meriva in Moscow, presented by the domestic company, which makes the partnership with us not only pleasant, but also tangibly practical.

  Such a cheap price level is due to the fact that we do direct deliveries of details from the warehouse of manufacturing companies, establishing close cooperation with them. Provide repair of the steering rack for Opel Meriva in Moscow to experts - the domestic company will constantly help customers May 11, 2012 Question: Can you advise who is engaged in the installation and repair of steering racks on the aster?

  For several years our company has been repairing the steering rack for the Opel Meriva in Moscow, which allows us to make sure of the professionalism of its work. It is impossible not to highlight the fundamental advantages of domestic work: the impeccability of updating mechanisms, which is likely due to the skill of domestic employees who have undergone narrowly focused training, to work with machines of any modifications; short-term in carrying out actions for the installation and updating of mechanisms.

  Moreover, for the execution of such work as replacing the steering rack for an Opel Meriva in Moscow, a thorough and comprehensive diagnostics helps a strict condition. vehicle domestic specialists; September 7, 2011 As I don’t forget, the steering rack at Meriva is completely similar to the Opel Corsa. And if so, then it is easy in the conditions of garage service, it can be sorted out, but under two conditions. great financial savings, cheap thanks to a unique offer of a domestic store to pick up beautiful spare parts at a low price.

  the level of implementation and the excellent speed of activities such as the installation of a steering rack for the Opel Meriva are important advantages of the domestic center. We systematically disassemble and update special equipment in domestic services, which makes it possible to achieve truly the highest quality of work.

  Domestic experts will easily fix interruptions in the work of cars that violate the ease of driving by professionally adjusting the system. The price of the power steering (GUR) for the Opel Meriva in Moscow includes, among other things, the alignment of the aggregate.

  Are you dreaming of purchasing a power steering (GUR) for an Opel Meriva in Moscow? Domestic company is the best choice A visit to a domestic company is the best choice if you want to purchase a power steering (GUR) for an Opel Meriva in Moscow without extra charges.

  In any area of ​​Moscow, say, SZAO, CAO, VAO, ZAO, SVAO, YuVAO, YuZAO, TsAO, YuAO, there are points of sale whose employees will be able to assist you in repairing and purchasing spare parts. Each of your questions about the sale of spare parts, their price and the nuances of choice will take detailed answers from domestic consultants.

  High-quality Provision in the shortest possible time and long-term operation - repair of a power steering (power steering) for Opel Meriva in Moscow qualifications of domestic employees. A good level of quality of work, the duration and reliability of the car - these are the advantages that the replacement of the power steering (GUR) with an Opel Meriva in Moscow from domestic experts will bring you. sent to indicate and short-term installation details, such as the new power steering.
  Repair of steering racks of different brands of Opel. For engine repair Opel In addition, the degree of deterioration of the Opel engine and a list of spare parts that need to be replaced are determined.

  If repairing the steering rack of an Opel meriva turns out to be too expensive compared to replacing the complete unit, then domestic experts will be able to install and adjust the steering rack to Your car... As part of the repair of the chassis, elimination and identification of deficiencies in the steering Opel meriva.

  Car steering repair includes services such as replacement of parts and power steering rack Opel Meriva steering rack. Search by number. Repair question. Consultation of specialists.

  Opel Meriva Steering rack used price or a new part depends on many factors, including state details, is there any need for repair steering rack Opel due to periodic collisions on dimensional obstacles, due to which the steering rack shaft can loosen or bend, etc.Opel Meriva management for operation, repair and maintenance.

  Opel Meriva (Opel Meriva) general information. electro-hydraulic power steering with reduced rack travel, sports steering wheel repair steering Opel Meriva. When replacing the right steering tip and tie rod, do I need to remove the rack? It simply slips onto the rod and unscrews from the steering rack.

  From a warehouse in Belgorod, a steering rack for the Opel Meriva. Sale of steering racks, power steering pumps, repair kits, components for repair of steering racks, equipment. Repair of Opel Meriva. replacement and repair of steering rack, steering rods, Opel steering tips.

  The main task of steering a car is to control the position of the wheels using the steering wheel. Installing the Opel Meriva camshaft oil seal. Replacing steering tips Opel Meriva. Opel Meriva rail oil seal repair.

  How to change the rear brake discs Opel Meriva. Opel Meriva clutch disc repair. Installing the steering rack Opel Meriva. Change the fuel level sensor Opel Meriva. Replacing the rear shock absorbers Opel Meriva.

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