In detail: steering rack Renault espace 3 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Most car owners of the French brand Renault, popular in our country, want their comfortable vehicle to be always on the move and not become a source of trouble on a long journey. To achieve these goals, not so much is needed: take care of the car, monitor its technical condition and, if the slightest malfunctions are detected, eliminate them as quickly as possible, until they lead to disastrous consequences.
One of the important parts of any car is the steering rack - a mechanism for transmitting steering movements to the driving wheel pair. Consider in this article the features of the Renault steering rack, its possible problems and remedies.
Almost the entire model range of the French brand Renault is equipped with power steering (GUR), which greatly facilitates the process of turning the steering wheel, which drives the wheels of the car.
The Renault steering rack consists of the following elements:
- tie rod ends - right and left;
- Tie Rod;
- traction cover;
- steering gear housing;
- power steering connecting hoses;
- drive gear.
A characteristic feature of this manufacturer is that tie rod ends - right and left are completely different, and the tie rods are the same. The joint of the steering rod joint and the steering rack reliably protects the corrugated rubber boot from water and dirt.
Even a small and seemingly insignificant malfunction of the steering mechanism makes the operation of the machine unsafe, therefore it is very important to identify possible problems in time and repair the Renault Megan steering rack.
Video (click to play). |
Even a novice car enthusiast will be able to determine the signs of a car malfunction, one has only to listen carefully to the sounds and observe the behavior of the car during operation.
The main indicators that can indicate a malfunction of the steering rack:
- the appearance of extraneous sounds when passing irregularities, knocking;
- after the end of the turn, the steering wheel is difficult to return to the center position;
- arbitrary rotation of the steering wheel without driver control;
- there is no effort when the steering wheel is rotated;
- the central position of the steering wheel gives no effort;
- reducing the level of the hydraulic booster fluid in the reservoir;
- a slight turn of the steering wheel gives a large or very small angle of rotation of the wheels;
- the car is difficult to keep in a straight line.
Often the following are the main reasons for rack breakage and wear:
- bearing play;
- worn out support bushings;
- wear and deformation of the rack teeth;
- wear of the antifriction lining followed by rubbing of the steering rack;
- driving on a bad road, wheels hitting deep holes.
In addition, a certain car model has its weak points and causes of malfunctions: repair of the Renault Logan steering rack may be necessary due to the failure of the front hub bearings.
In the event that the driver heard a suspicious tapping while driving or unusual behavior of his Renault, this may indicate that a broken Renault steering rack is knocking, and it is necessary to diagnose and, if necessary, repair it.
Diagnostics of the Renault steering rack malfunction is carried out in several stages:
- the machine is installed on the handbrake or fixed with a support, the motor is turned off;
- the power steering fluid level and its color are checked, the integrity of the hydraulic system is checked;
- while the assistant sits in the car and turns the steering wheel, the person who diagnoses the malfunction is directly near the driving wheels, listens to the sounds and looks at the state of the mechanism;
- after an initial inspection and a verdict on a possible malfunction of the steering rack, this unit is removed from the car, installed in a vice and special devices are used to check the presence of a backlash in the crosspiece;
- a check is made for the backlash of the support sleeve in the rail;
- the state of integrity of the worm pair is checked;
- the condition of the corrugated anthers and the presence of grease drips are checked;
- the tips and rods are checked.
In the event of a characteristic knock and difficulties in driving Renault Laguna, like other models of this automobile manufacturer, this is usually a sign of malfunction of the steering rack, and you should immediately choose the time, place and specialist for its repair. In some cases, it will be enough to adjust the Renault steering rack without major repairs or replacement of this mechanism.
Consider the procedure for tightening the steering rack on Renault. The car is fixed with pads, lifted with a jack, followed by removal of the drive wheel. The resulting open access to the steering mechanism of the car allows you to find an adjusting niche located near the traction boot, and serves as a way to adjust the rack.
After the mechanism settings slot is minimized, into it a short hex wrench is inserted and the mechanism is tightened with an open-end wrench until the backlash disappears.When satisfied with the result, the hexagon is removed from the niche, and the hexagonal hole is subject to punching.
If adjusting the steering rack did not eliminate the knocking and difficult control of the car, it should be analyzed for repair or removal and the installation of a new part, and also regarding the need to replace the steering rack bushings for any Renault car model.
Consider the method of repairing the steering rack "Renault Megan". It should be noted that similar work is being carried out in relation to other cars of the French brand Renault.
Steering rack repair stages on Renault:
Experienced car enthusiasts recommend adhering to simple rules that can extend the life of the steering rack:
- carry out periodic inspection of the condition and timely replacement of the anther of the steering rack "Renault Logan" and other models;
- before driving in the cold season, you need to start the car and wait a while for the engine and power steering oil to warm up, and then turn the steering wheel to the right and left several times;
- you need to carefully monitor the safety of all seals, as well as the level and color of the power steering fluid, which should periodically drain and change to fresh;
- you should be very careful when driving through bad sections of the road and try not to fall into holes.
Since the steering is a very important mechanism of a car, which is responsible for safety on the road, you should carefully monitor its serviceability and integrity, and if the slightest malfunctions occur, you should entrust their elimination to qualified technicians as soon as possible. Repair of the Renault Scenic steering rack will cost the car owner about $ 400, the cost of such a service for other Renault models will vary depending on the complexity of the work and the price of spare parts.
Renault Espace GrandEspace2.0 DCI 25TH ›Logbook› Steering rack repair and replacement of support bearings
04/30/2018 mileage 270'000 km. He repaired the steering rack and replaced the SWAG 60922305 thrust bearings installed in 2015 (113tyk left) with SNR.
According to the Rake, the work was painted in the order:
1. Repair of the steering rack
2. Removal and installation of the steering rack
3. Support bearings - replacement
4. Wheel alignment
5. Grinding the steering shaft.
They blamed on the previous installers, they say, on the left, the rack was kept on one nut, the second was not tightened.
For the first hundred kilometers, the steering wheel seemed to me heavier when cornering and it was difficult to return to neutral. But perhaps it seemed. After a couple of days, everything was the same as before, nothing knocks on irregularities anywhere and the same when taxiing. And the main thing is that the wheels turn smoothly, without jerking - for which thanks to the replaced support bearings.
At the station, they strongly recommended that the turbine be repaired, they say there is a lot of oil around and the mileage is large. If you change only the turbine repair kit with flushing the intercooler - 16 thousand rubles, and you can continue to drive happily.
Upon arrival at the garage, I replaced the air filter, with which I traveled a little more than forty thousand km. The original Renault air filter is, of course, much heavier and more monolithic and generally cool compared to the unoriginal Misfat P402.
The third generation French minivan Renault Espace was produced from 1997 to 2003 in its homeland in two bodies. In addition to the short wheelbase, there is also an extended version of the Grand. Both versions are highly secure (4 stars according to Euro NCAP) and rich equipment.
The transformable salon pleases with comfort and excellent sound insulation, visibility from the driver's seat is beyond praise. Only the dashboard in the center of the dashboard looks unusual.
The corrosion resistance of the galvanized body, like most of the French, is assessed excellently, and the large trunk will delight those who like to travel.
Separately, I would like to note the excellent driving characteristics of the Renault Espace III, which, however, do not save from poor cornering stability. The rolls at high speed are quite impressive. The prices of spare parts can also upset.
All engines installed on Reno Aspace 3, are distinguished by high reliability and durability, before overhaul without problems, they take care of 500 thousand km. Only incomprehensible electrical anomalies, accompanied by a sharp drop in revs, upset.
Firstly, the timing belt changes only complete with tension and idler rollers, as well as the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Secondly, there is the following drawback: the lower timing belt cover is located too close to the accessory drive belt, which gradually delaminates and there is a real danger of the belt jumping onto the stream and tightening it under the timing gear. The consequences are quite unpleasant, only cylinder head repair without the cost of parts will cost ≈ $ 500-700.
Engine oil seals and gaskets are prone to depressurization, which is why oil starvation is really possible. Therefore, if oil leaks are detected, it will be necessary to constantly monitor its level.
Of the gasoline engines, the most widespread is a two-liter sixteen-valve engine with a capacity of 140 hp, which is notable for its good economy. Renault fuel consumption does not exceed 8 liters on the highway and 12 liters in the city per 100 kilometers.
There are also three-liter gasoline engines on the market, but they are very, very gluttonous. The twenty-four-valve V6 on the highway barely fits into 9 liters per 100 km, and in the city the consumption reaches 17 liters / 100 km. Well, the three-liter PRV is generally ruinous for the family budget - 10l / 21l / 100km.
Of the diesel modifications, the most common are a powerful and high-torque 2.0 dCi of 150 hp, consuming 6l / 9l / 100km on the highway and in the city, respectively (for some reason, many believe that this is a bit too much for such a volume), as well as an economical twelve-valve 2.2TD with a flow rate of 7l / 11l / 100km.
There is also a powerful and economical 2.2 DCi (7l / 9l / 100km), but it is very picky about fuel quality, and generally capricious in operation.
The transmission, on the contrary, pleases with reliability, especially manual gearboxes. Basically, you will have to constantly monitor the oil seals and gaskets of the gearbox, the leakage of which is the main cause of all mechanical transmission breakdowns. The clutch can handle up to 100 thousand kilometers without any problems, the critical wear of the driven disc is manifested by engine vibrations. It's better not to mess with an automatic transmission, its reliability is far from ideal - this is the main drawback of Renault Espeys with automatic transmission.
The suspension is energy-intensive, and you are guaranteed comfort even on our roads.
Here's the chassis disappointing, its reliability was not up to par due to overload, which she is afraid of in panic. Almost every 50 thousand km you will have to squeeze and diagnose all the Espace chassis components in order to exclude the occurrence of suspension malfunctions on a long journey.
The brakes are reliable, only the brake discs turned out to be short-lived.
The steering is reliable and informative, the steering rack can only leak after 150 thousand km of operation. Around the same period, the service life of the power steering pump also ends.
The electrical equipment of the Renault Espace III cannot be called a model of reliability - it is rather the main sore of all Renault cars. Control lamps and various buttons can fail at any time, and it is almost impossible to identify the reasons for the failures. The climate control unit placed on the door also looks unusual.
Surely, every Renault Scenic owner understands that repairs in this area are not cheap. Therefore, we recognize the "symptoms" and identify the characteristic prerequisites for the replacement of parts and diagnostics of a car.
- Strong thud when the Renault Scenic wheel hits a bump or pit.
- Dull thud when driving on a "wavy" road.
- Backlash on one side and subsequent toe problem.
- In high speed mode, the steering wheel does not return to the "zero" position.
- When turning the steering wheel quickly to the right or left, a knock is noticeable when the engine is turned off on Renault Scenic.
To solve this problem, services take at least 20,000 rubles. It is created by a small plastic sleeve into which the rail fits. If the bushing is broken, backlash begins. Of course, you can independently replace parts and inspect the car again for MOT.
The first step is to remove the rail with the stretcher. At the end, we put each detail back in turn, not together. We disassemble the details.
- Squeeze the rail.
- We unscrew the rods with a key. It is necessary to unscrew it carefully so as not to damage the slot of the rack shaft.
- We remove the nut. It protects against knocking when turning the steering wheel. Tightening should be done when Renault Scenic is fully assembled. Easier to do with a partner who will turn the steering wheel.
- Remove the boot.
- Remove the corkscrew with the bearing. The worm shaft comes out immediately.
- We remove the shaft.
Next, you need to make grooves for a homemade bushing. Since we are changing the spare part completely, we will select the size for the car model. Sawing grooves can be done in a turning service or if you have a machine at home. Important! The antennae on which the bushing is held must be made before the cuts, since it is not yet as fragile as after working on the machine.
Next, fill in everything with lithol in the traction area under the anthers so that moisture does not get in. By the way, water is the worst thing for the rail shaft. The price of such a question is free. Naturally, you can trust the professionals, pay dumb money and hand over a homemade part. There is no guarantee that the wizards will be able to install it the way you can do it yourself.
The bushing can be repaired at the service for two tens of thousands of rubles, or you can repair it yourself. It won't take much time, you can do it in half a day and forget about the terrible knocking for the next six months for sure.
Important! The Renault plant does not produce a set of spare parts for repairs. For Renault Scenic, BMW's ZF right hub is ideal.
The left one needs to be grinded at the service, or on your own.For a price, it will come out to you no more than three hundred rubles. Perhaps the problem will remain, and the part will need to be replaced by specialists. Some services offer repairs in the following areas for a round sum.
You can make the steering part by hand. The material from which the sleeve is made resembles Fluoroplastic. In fact, it is Caprolon. It is prone to deformation when pressed. It does not leave traces after mechanical stress, it has ideal characteristics. The cost varies from 70 to 120 rubles. Usually 100 grams is enough for two parts.
We start the repair process with a jack. We lift the car on it and unscrew the right front wheel. You need to unscrew it in the direction of travel. Next, twist the steering tip nut and remove it. After that, the steering wheel on the Renault Scenic must be unscrewed completely to the left, and the plastic boot clamps must be cut off. One of them can be changed to metal a little later. At the tip, unscrew the lock nut, then the tip itself and the boot.
Next, you need a wrench to twist the traction. The key must be carefully threaded and hooked into the lower suspension arm, under the engine. The length of the key should be about half a meter. The assistant who is in the pit of the box must pull down. Another person - at the wheel arch, Renault adjusts the gas key every time the steering wheel is turned. Then we put the steering wheel in the extreme right position to see the detail. So it is clearly visible.
It must be picked up with a screwdriver, while the second person must move the steering wheel on the Renault Scenic to the left and right. This is necessary in order to knock the sleeve out of there. When removed, the part may crumble or break. In this case, all leftovers and pieces must be picked out.
We install a new part and close its joint with lithol. We put in place the steering rod in Renault and lubricate the rod joint. We tighten the boot installation with clamps and install the steering tip. We carry out compression with a lock nut. We fasten the tip to the turning fist and install the wheel. The collapse and convergence on Renault Scenic will be done immediately, or at the nearest service and the repair is over.
All work takes no more than 3 hours. For comparison - specialized expensive services offer to do everything for you in the highest class in two days, and with a prepayment. Don't risk getting a pig in a poke. A few days later, you should re-enter the MOT and inspect the car for any problems with the steering system. If the knocking persists, which is unlikely, you need to change the shaft setting completely, since here the problem is no longer in the small details.
Additionally, for safe driving, it is recommended to install a speed limiter and activate the wheel speed lock, especially in winter.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message Sasha Petrovi4 »10 Aug 2011, 09:51
Message serega77 »16 Aug 2011, 21:53
Message Sasha Petrovi4 »16 Aug 2011, 23:03
Message serega77 »23 Aug 2011, 21:39
Message Sasha Petrovi4 »24 Aug 2011, 19:53
Message serega77 »24 Aug 2011, 21:36
I took 132 tons in April, twisted 15 tons. The minimum is 100%, now 148 tons, how much you can only guess.
and the backlash in the rail is most likely due to a broken right steering rod with a leaky boot (this is how the previous owner drove).
and another question. there is a lock washer above the hex bolt, does it need to be removed.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
- there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of a car;
- increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
- there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
- there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
- power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
First of all, it is worth noting that it is actually very difficult to repair this unit, and it is worth starting the procedure only if you have all the necessary equipment at hand, as well as experience and knowledge in the field of car construction.
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
- toothed shaft;
- steering rack support sleeve;
- spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
- Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning the accumulation of all its parts.
- Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
- Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
How to remove the steering rack.
- Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
- Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
- Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
- Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
- Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to install the anthers with perfect tightness.
- Unscrew the rack from the tie rods using a special flat head screwdriver.
- Unscrew the lower plastic gear shaft plug.
- Unscrew the lock nut.
- Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
- Pull out the lower oil seal.
- Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
- Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
- Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
- Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
- Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having previously lubricated it with special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
- Place the rail into the housing.
- Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
- Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
- Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
- Place the steering rack in the middle position.
- Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
- Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
- Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
- Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair without and with power steering has a lot in common, the differences are minor: different bushings and the composition of the lubricant.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
It is believed that replacing the right support sleeve is a panacea for knocking - this is not always the case, cars come to us for repairs with such a magical "modernization". view of the rack on the right, with the rack and pinion shaft removed. you can see the right crankcase cavity filled with epoxy resin - if it does not fly out immediately, after 2-3 months you have to redo it.
... here's another option - "reinforced". here the joiner put his hand - the structure is fixed with a bolt.
... a jumble of 2 sleeves, and even with pieces of foil around the edges. the person who created this work could obviously stir up the hadron collider. as a result, 3 bushings are obtained, together with the factory one, i.e. repair 3D. the price of the issue is about 8000 rubles.
.. here's another option - a self-tapping screw. "A la Tula Lefty." as a result of installation, the steering wheel does not return from the turn. Well, at least it looks soundly.
... the result of such a repair is a reduced turning angle to the right, constantly breaking anthers of the steering rods, which leads to the “death” of the gear pair in turbo mode.
... stock up on popcorn for a movie.
... if the boot is fixed with plastic clamps, the same thing happens.
... as a result, we get a rusty steering rack shaft, due to the constantly penetrating humid air.
In almost any case, the mechanism can be restored. let's get started. the bolt in the cabin ..
... disconnect the EUR connectors behind the battery.
..muffler inlet pipe mounting bolts ..
... 4-point subframe .. all Torx bolts.
... lower the subframe on the hydraulic support - the rack mounting bolts.
... disassemble - restore the shaft. we eliminate defects in the steering rack.
Tundra
-
No, it's a rake, alas. Traction is easy to diagnose.
Tundra
-
I pulled up with friends on the service. They said the limit, then the repair. But she is leaking with me, I want to repair it for a long time.
Artyom
-
The rail was pulled up a little better, but with a full turn on the gravel, there is probably a tapping of traction, although in the service they say that they are in order
Artyom
-
The rail was not removed, from the bottom on the left side of the rail there is a four-sided screw, so they tightened it
I will say right away the tapping did not go away, but it became more comfortable on rough asphalt, I changed the ball balls in the winter, I put the original, I don't think they are. The rods are not tapped either.
One foreman said that one client on Traffic had something like this, they say, he also changed everything, in short, he decided that the rail needs to be repaired, he was going to repair it after the flight and a rack flowed on his flight, in general he decided to postpone the rail and change the racks, changed and the tapping went away like this they say there may be a problem in the racks, although I doubt it
roni
-
the tie rod end may be out of order
Tundra
-
Ends very rarely refuse.
Konstantin
-
Roofing felts try to tighten the rail, there is no experience, but at one "hundred" they said that, pull up and immediately change the rail.
- The car is in the pit;
- The engine is off;
- The rack makes a knock when turning the steering wheel.
- We use an L-shaped socket wrench with a handle less than 10 cm;
- A "flexible key" is also suitable, which is held over the metal of the body (see photo);
Let's say a knock is heard when you turn the steering wheel left and right. This knock can also occur when driving on a bad road. And the sound itself in each case will be emitted by the rack, loosely adjacent to the gear. A nut-stop is always screwed into the crankcase of the steering mechanism, tightening which reduces the gap between the rack and the gear. In general, the Renault Logan steering rack tightening looks the same as in other cars - the nut must be tightened, while it is advisable not to overdo it.
Don't rush to adjust! There is indeed a nut in trim levels with power steering, but it will be undesirable to turn it.
Two power steering hoses are clearly visible
Try to start the engine and wait 10 seconds. The intensity of all knocks made when turning the steering wheel should decrease. This is how the power steering works, and this is normal! You can safely continue to operate the car.
Before tightening the steering rack of Renault Logan with power steering, always bend the tin washer. The warranty is then lost. The washer is riveted along the edge of the nut and rests against the sides of the crankcase. Sometimes replacing the fluid in the power steering helps, but only if it has not changed for a long time and has lost its properties.
Let's see what the steering rack mechanism looks like live. The nut is located under the arrow (see photo).
Here is the stop nut
The nut itself can be turned with a hexagon "by 10". It's simple: rotation to the right corresponds to a decrease in the gap.
The car will have to be driven into a hole - there are no other options. Secure the rear wheels with a handbrake.
Two nuts on each side
First you need to remove the crankcase protection. We take the socket wrench "10" and unscrew 6 screws (2 on each of the three sides). It will be difficult to do without an assistant here.
The recess in the nut will be closed with a plug, rubber or plastic. The plug must be removed.
Nut location circled
The nut itself is not visible from under the bottom. Find it at the point surrounded by a circle (see photo).
The location of the nut must be felt by hand. This is how the steering rack of Renault Logan is tightened, as well as Lada Largus and all VAZ novelties.
When the nut is found and the plug is removed, the following options are possible:
Here the key rope is passed
To reach the nut, it will be easier to jack up the left wheel and remove it. Next, a socket wrench is used.
And even before tightening the Renault Logan steering rack, many do this: they make a "10 by 10 cm" notch in the bottom with a grinder. It is better not to use this method.
Of course, it's best to do all the work with an assistant. The rail is adjusted step by step:
- The nut is turned to the right by 10-20 degrees;
- Let the assistant turn the steering wheel;
- If a knock is heard, carry out step 1.
In the last step, the nut is tightened by turning it another 10 degrees. We wish you success.
It is believed that replacing the right support sleeve is a panacea for knocking - this is not always the case, cars come to us for repairs with such a magical "modernization". view of the rack on the right, with the rack and pinion shaft removed. you can see the right crankcase cavity filled with epoxy resin - if it does not fly out immediately, after 2-3 months you have to redo it.
... here's another option - "reinforced". here the joiner put his hand - the structure is fixed with a bolt.
... a jumble of 2 sleeves, and even with pieces of foil around the edges. the person who created this work could obviously stir up the hadron collider. as a result, 3 bushings are obtained, together with the factory one, i.e. repair 3D. the price of the issue is about 8000 rubles.
.. here's another option - a self-tapping screw. "A la Tula Lefty." as a result of installation, the steering wheel does not return from the turn. Well, at least it looks soundly.
... the result of such a repair is a reduced turning angle to the right, constantly breaking anthers of the steering rods, which leads to the “death” of the gear pair in turbo mode.
... stock up on popcorn for a movie.
... if the boot is fixed with plastic clamps, the same thing happens.
... as a result, we get a rusty steering rack shaft, due to the constantly penetrating moist air.
In almost any case, the mechanism can be restored. let's get started. the bolt in the cabin ..
... disconnect the EUR connectors behind the battery.
..muffler inlet pipe mounting bolts ..
... 4-point subframe .. all Torx bolts.
... lower the subframe on the hydraulic support - the rack mounting bolts.
... disassemble - restore the shaft. we eliminate defects in the steering rack.
If you want to sign up for a steering rack repair for Renault Espace, you need:
1.call by phone: +7 (495) 369-94-41, explain the problem and characteristic signs to the master-inspector;
2. The wizard will guide you on the cost, time and timing of the repair (the price may differ from the cost on the site, both upward and downward, the repair time is usually 2-3 hours);
3. You arrive, the foreman makes an inspection on the spot and says the price and cost;
4. Our craftsmen remove, repair and install the rail on your car;
5.You check, pay, get a guarantee for work.
If there is a need to diagnose a car, it is necessary to entrust this matter to a hundred workers. Practice shows that repairs are fraught with the fact that a malfunction may be detected incorrectly or the repair itself, carried out at home, will be of poor quality. If, nevertheless, the motorist decided to fix the breakdown on his own, then it is necessary to accurately establish the root cause of the problem. For example, if the following is found in a Renault Espace:
- knocking while driving;
- oil stains at the place where the car stopped.
So it's time to start repairing the Renault Espace steering rack. Sometimes a complete replacement of the unit or only a repair kit is necessary. Ask our mechanics for advice. This will save time spent on repairs, because, as a rule, such an occupation is often fraught with difficulties. Any breakdown can be repaired as efficiently as possible if you approach the task professionally.
If you need repair and replacement of the Renault Espace gur, there are also some features here. At the inspection stations, we have high-precision equipment, thanks to which it is easy to understand the root causes of malfunctions, which allows us to quickly and efficiently correct problems.
It should always be borne in mind that car malfunctions can cause troubles on the road, which are fraught not only with the occurrence of damage to technical equipment, but can also lead to injury to people.
Hello, to all the happy owners of MET!
Since there is no such topic yet, I decided to share my experience in repairing the steering rack.
Two years ago there was a troublesome event, namely: it hissed, buzzed, watered. In the pit, it turned out that the left steering rack oil seal ordered “to live long”. Having driven around the masters, I decided that it was cheaper to buy a contract one, there is a friend from the disassembly of such autos. I bought it, put it on and drove off. He took off his own and put it off for a rainy day. After 2 years of happy pokatushek this rainy day has come! This one also began to flow. The flow is not strong, but tired of leaving traces on the asphalt. Because there are no repair kits in the shops, I took my own one, disassembled it, took it out with a hook from the flattened electrode and some sort of “Ford's mother”, an evil gland and went to look. I also looked from where the snot goes in the one installed on the machine, it turned out to be the top one, took it into the load. Picked up, bought, and with a happy face, tk. I became the owner of two Ford oil seals from the steering, namely from the steering rack! (because from dvigla or something else not to go 10 atm should keep), went to the garage. I assembled the old rail in reverse order. Below there will be photos in sequence, the numbers indicate the size of the key.
We jack the car and install it on reliable stands, remove the wheels. With the help of a syringe and a cambric, we pump out the liquid. when the tank is empty, we start the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth, we are muffled. The return flow rushes into the tank, we pump it out. We do this procedure at least 3 times. The more we merge, the less we pour, this is obvious. We align the steering wheel and fix it with a lock.
Everything, finally, the rail is free and we, from the driver's side, turning and helping from below, pull it out into the window between the subframe and the spar. if it does not pass a little, then we squeeze the stretcher with a mantle. The entire removal procedure takes 30 minutes maximum with smoke breaks and an assessment of the situation an hour.
Repair. In my case, replacing one oil seal. (IF THE REIKA DOESN'T LIFT, not a curve and there is no tangible output on the stock) so as not to pay someone for just that, as if for “a big repair with the replacement of all sealing elements and grinding with boring. ”(DIVORCE.) Money.
By the way, two rails, one tribute, and the other escaping 0.5g. the stem is the same in length, but the stroke is different. The tribute has 11mm more, i.e. by heart and is 101mm.
Video (click to play). |
Py.Sy. I’m glad if someone helps, if it’s wrong, don’t kick too much.