How to start repairing the toilet with your own hands

In detail: how to start repairing the toilet with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

There are many ways to revive the interior in the bathroom. In the process of repairing the toilet, you can add interesting details with your own hands. In this article, we will talk about some transformation techniques that will help in the design of the space.

If we are talking exclusively about ideas, watch as many photos as possible. Before starting the repair, it is advisable to represent the final result as accurately as possible. Although some of them will definitely change anyway. If your toilet is already ready for renovation, the following plan can be used.

We decide on the decoration of the walls (plastic panels, PVC, wallpaper or tiles)
Choosing how to hide pipes
We decide whether we need a wardrobe, where it will be located
Choosing a toilet
We look at the trends in the finishing of the current year

These are the main steps. Read about each of them with photo examples here - use the plate for quick navigation. And now - cool ideas as such, so that you can pick up something interesting and useful.

Yes, pictures. Many would say that this is a very bad idea for renovation. Nevertheless, practice takes place. The classic design option is a golden frame against a background of red walls.

For each style, you can choose the right picture that will effectively decorate the room. The frame of the product must also correspond to the overall concept.

The tone of the walls continues throughout the painting.

A massive white frame sets off the active background and matches the color of the plumbing.

Plant motifs on the wall echo with decorative flowers.

The bright pattern is in harmony with the color of textiles and hanging baskets.

Video (click to play).

Pratika shows that most people prefer to make built-in lamps or something else inconspicuous in the toilet. But you can, on the contrary, make lighting a part of the design! A modern design white chandelier matches the shade of the floor, toilet and sink against a wood grain backdrop.

The chandelier is massive enough for this bathroom and attracts attention. Let's skip the jokes!

Decoration in New Year's style. The filling of the niche can be changed, depending on the mood.

An unpretentious composition on the background of wooden dies - a wreath of dried flowers and decor in the form of a dried fish. The idea is easy to bring to life, and its implementation with your own hands does not take any energy at all.

Antique forms complement the marble walls.

Red and white interior in country style for Valentine's Day. Anyone can make such a design.

Candles can replace the main light in the evening.

The accent tone of the stylized bird and the organic shapes of the lamps break the severity of the interior.

Open shelves look spectacular only if order reigns on them.

The wood texture of the shelves matches the material of the cabinet. The three primary colors look great in a single space.

A capacious shelf is formed by the upper edge of the installation box.

In a small bathroom or in a room with brightly decorated walls, avoid piling up furniture, choose a laconic form of plumbing.

A suspended toilet with installation looks compact, without unnecessary details.

Choose plumbing in the same range, especially if the room is miniature.

When choosing an active pattern for the walls, give up wall cabinets in the toilet.

Suspended toilet bowl with installation in a bathroom with an area of 0.7 sq. m.

A minimum of items in a combined bathroom with an area of 1 sq. m. This was the main idea of the repair: we do everything simply, concisely, and most importantly - cheaply and with our own hands.Tile collections have long been selected by designers in showrooms.

No, really. Anything can be found on the market these days. So why not get creative with the choice of plumbing during the renovation? The black collection of sanitary ware looks unusual and is combined with the decoration of the space. The interior is also complemented by a painting in a black frame and a spectacular vase. The twisting branches in a vase are similar in shape to a water heater.

Toilet and sink in the form of truncated and inverted cones. The perspective of the marina and the futuristic shape of the sanitary ware in the interior look interesting and stylish.

Plumbing in vintage style.

Specular reflections distort the perception of real geometry. This is not the most popular technique when repairing a toilet with your own hands; many simply do not perceive this idea in such an intimate room. But this effect allows you to visually expand the boundaries of small rooms.

The mirror makes the room not so narrow (visually).

Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.

According to most finishers, repairs in an apartment should be started from the bathroom. Let me explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the renovation, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing fixtures, doors, and sometimes the entire bathroom walls.

So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bath, a sink, a toilet bowl ... Everything that costs, weighs, lies.

• Next stage: with the help of a grinder we cut off all the old pipes to the crane located on the riser.

• Using a punch, knock down the old tiles.

It is important if the plaster under the tiles moves away from the wall, bunches ... it must also be beaten off.

• We dismantle the old door together with the box.

• Change risers... Now we turn our attention to the plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the renovation and must be changed. After renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal wiring of the water supply yourself.

• Checking the hood... Let's move on to the hood. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intensely the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

• We ground the walls... At the next stage, I propose to clean up properly: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.

• Installing beacons... After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.

• Plastering walls... Have you installed the lighthouses? Let's start plastering. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a drill mixer attachment. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the lighthouses and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove superfluous from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. There are not large pits left - it does not matter - then we level them with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.

• Leveling the floors... The next stage is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors".We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, it can even be slightly thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.

• We make a detailed plan of the bathroom... At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? as? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call this a bathroom plan. For the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bath should be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. screw it up. With this sort of sorted out.

Video - turnkey bath repair

• We make (sketch) a detailed markup of the water supply and sewerage system... If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect the bath in a free room. We put it on the legs and level it. As a rule, in most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for you. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the bathroom wall. All the same - we do the same with the sink and the washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how our water supply and sewerage system will go. A bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe under the washing machine - the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.

• We make (sketch) a detailed marking of the wiring... The next thing we do is define the wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric shaver - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring out a wire under it (decide at what height). If there will be a fan, we will bring it out under it too.

• Making strobes... When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a puncher and chase it according to the plan. Next, we remove and prime the grooves.

• We install water supply and sewerage... At the next stage, we install the water supply (comb) and sewerage system. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls, it is better to use polypropylene pipes or metal-plastic pipes.

• We mount a heated towel rail... At the next stage, we invite the masters or install the heated towel rail ourselves. The pipes are also wall-mounted.

• We mount the box... So we still have unclosed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from a metal profile and sew it up with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it is green. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed so that there is access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.• We prime the walls and floor... As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.• We spread the floor... Now we lay out the floor with tiles.For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathroom and sink. This way we will only have a whole tile in plain sight. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.• We spread 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor... Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you are using a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be sufficient.• We rub the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).• Installing the bath... It's time for the bathroom. We put the bath in, set it strictly in level and in length and in width. We expand the bath.• We put wall tiles... We lay out the wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill slats so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report on the bottom. Let the tiles dry and take out the crosses.• We rub the seams.• We mount the ceiling... Now we need to decide what we are going to do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, suspended from plastic panels, tensioned. They are all good in their own way, you choose.• We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - a sink, a washing machine, a toilet bowl, faucets, a bath screen.It remains to hang the mirror, put the sockets and the bath is ready.This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes when the quality of the work performed suffers and sometimes leads to rework.Hello dear readers! Continuing the theme of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many repairing these premises are faced with such a question.If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start repairs with your own hands at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are divided, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in the type of finishing materials used and color.Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to cover the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will end up with dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

The photo shows an example of how you can carry out the work yourself

Even in a small area, you can create a comfortable and attractive environment.

Repairing a toilet is both simple and complex. Simple because the volume of work is small due to the small area, and difficult for the reason that, due to lack of space, you need to think carefully about everything.

All work can be broken down into 10 stages:

Development of the future interior;
Purchase of the necessary materials and tools;
Dismantling of old plumbing and decoration;
Replacement of communications and laying of new ones (if necessary);
Construction of a box for masking pipes;
Floor covering device;
Wall decoration;
Ceiling decoration;
Installation of plumbing and other equipment;
Door installation.

To get a neat bathroom, you will have to carry out a number of works.

You do not need to think about where to start work, since first of all you need to think over the layout and decoration.

To do this, you need to do the following:

Measure the area at your disposal.This is the main aspect that determines what you can deliver and how to arrange the elements.... Unfortunately, most often there is very little space and you have to adapt to the circumstances, and not come up with interesting solutions;
Determine what equipment will be installed. If there is very little space, then most often only the toilet is placed. If there is more space, then you can add a washbasin, bidet or even a urinal, it all depends on your wishes;

Equipment installation standards: from the center of the toilet bowl to the wall should be at least 40 cm, the sink should be located at a distance of at least 30 cm;

It is important to position the plumbing correctly

A wall-hung toilet can be an excellent solution. It does not take up space on the floor, but a metal frame will have to be attached to the wall, which will take about 10 cm of space. This option looks very attractive, but in installation it is much more difficult, this also needs to be taken into account;

Wall hung toilet - an interesting solution for small spaces

The color scheme should be in soothing colors. You should not use bright colors and variegated finishes, it does not look the best in the bathroom. You can look at design ideas on the Internet, there are a lot of examples, and anyone will find an option to their liking.

There are many options, find the one that you like and which you can implement

After you have decided on an approximate design, you can proceed to the selection and purchase of materials. You must measure the area of the floor, ceiling and walls in advance in order to quickly calculate the approximate costs for one or another finishing option.

First, let's figure out what you can put on the floor:

Ceramic tiles are the most popular solution. There are a huge number of types on sale, so there will be no problems with the choice. If you need a cheap option, then I will give you a little advice: look for substandard in stores, it is inexpensive, and due to the small volume, you can choose good ceramics. Most often, the marriage is not visible, but you can save very well;

The tile is a great solution, the material looks good and is not afraid of moisture and cleaning agents

Self-leveling floor is a relatively new solution that is great for a bathroom. The coating is not cheap, but due to the fact that the floor space is small, the cost of installing it will be only slightly higher than when using ceramics. In addition, this option can be implemented with your own hands, which is also important.

Such coatings can simulate a wide variety of images.

For walls, you can use the following options:

Ceramic tile. You can create patterns or even ceramic paintings on the walls. For the most discerning, a mosaic is suitable, a very effective, but also quite expensive coating;

Tiles are great for walls too

Budget finishing option - PVC panels. They cost a little, but they also look much worse than the same tile. But if you need to do it cheaply and reliably, then this decision will come in handy;

PVC panels are good for toilets

You can even stick wallpaper on the walls. You need to choose moisture resistant options. I would recommend using glass fiber as it can be repainted. That is, you can easily carry out cosmetic repairs and refresh the room in the future, simply by changing the color of the walls.

Wallpaper allows you to create a very original setting.

As for the ceiling, it is easiest to implement one of two options with your own hands:

Fastening of plastic panels. They look good on the ceiling and are inexpensive. You can choose a more expensive option - rack metal ceilings. They look presentable and are almost indistinguishable from plastic in installation;

This option looks good.

You can just putty the surface and paint it. If the ceiling is curved, then it is easier to build a frame and fix moisture-resistant drywall... So you get an even base, which must be putty with a thin layer and painted.

The color of the ceiling is matched to the rest of the finish

As for the tool, its list depends on the selected materials for finishing. Below I will provide a list of fixtures where necessary.

It is worth starting work by removing everything unnecessary. The process is simple, but it requires a lot of effort and a significant investment of time.

The sequence of work is as follows:

First of all, old plumbing is removed. Most often, you just need to remove the corrugation from the toilet. If you have old equipment, you will have to break up the cement that used to strengthen the joints;

You can temporarily put a new toilet in order to use the bathroom

The floor is usually covered with old tiles, which are very firmly in place. You can knock it down with a hammer and chisel, or with a puncher. The process is dusty and noisy, so it is better to work during the day;

Removing old tiles is a tedious job

If there are tiles on the walls, then they are removed in the same way as from the floor. If the surface is covered with wallpaper, they need to be soaked and removed. Painted surfaces do not need to be cleaned if the paint adheres to them firmly. The exception is oil formulations, they must be removed, it is best to use a special wash for work;

Everything that does not hold well is removed from the walls

If there is whitewash on the ceiling, then it must be soaked with water and removed with a spatula. Painted surfaces are inspected, only damaged areas can be removed.

At this stage, the following works are performed:

If the old riser does not inspire confidence, then it is advisable to replace it with a new plastic one. Most often, you have to change the section from floor to ceiling, adapters are placed on the connections, and the structure itself is easily assembled from the constituent parts of the configuration you need;

The riser is attached to special clamps

If you need to lay pipes around the room, then it is best to hide them in the grooves.... Communication may be needed if you put a sink and bidet or bought a toilet with a bidet. It is important to think about the correct pin layout so that everything is convenient. Even if it is not necessary to lay pipes in new places, it is advisable to replace the old steel communications with new plastic ones;

It is better to hide the pipes in the wall

Do not forget about laying the wiring to the fixtures and the fan, if any. It is also better to hide them in grooves.

To hide the sewer pipes, you need to build a box. If the riser goes in the corner, then only this part of the room is closed, and if in the middle, then it is easier to make a partition and sew up the entire space behind the toilet.

Read also: DIY TV repair

The instructions for carrying out the work are simple:

For the frame, we will use metal plasterboard profiles. Guiding elements are attached along the walls, and the structure is formed by the main profile;
First, the structure is marked, vertical lines are drawn along the walls using a level or plumb line, the outlines of the future box are drawn on the floor and ceiling;

For accurate marking, you can use a square.

A wall profile is fixed along the perimeter of the future structure. To do this, holes are drilled in the walls for fast mounting dowels with a diameter of 6 mm;

Guiding elements define the outline of the future structure

Then the frame is attached, for this, the main profiles are used. To give the structure rigidity, it is reinforced with ribs, which are located every 40-50 cm;

The frame must be rigid

The last step is to mount the moisture-resistant drywall. It is cut into pieces of the required size and fixed with special self-tapping screws with a fine pitch.

When carrying out the cladding, do not forget to leave an opening for the installation of the door to check the condition of the equipment and take readings from the meters.

The hatch will be inserted after finishing

We will start from this part of the room. First, let's figure out how a ceramic floor is made.To work, we need a certain set of materials and tools, listed in the table.

The dressing room is a place that is regularly visited not only by the owners of the premises, but also by guests who drop in to them.

Therefore, keeping it clean and hygienic is usually one of the priorities of the owners.

Some psychologists advise to judge the cleanliness and decency of citizens by the state of the toilet rooms they use.

Toilet repair may be required in several cases:

moving to another accommodation located in the old housing stock
replacement of unsuitable decoration and design in a new building
moral and physical deterioration of plumbing and engineering equipment, as well as finishing of floors, walls and ceilings after a long (more than 5-year) operation

Before and where to start repairing a toilet, you should determine the criteria that this room must meet.

Renovation in a standard toilet

The finish should allow easy and effective wet cleaning.

And the materials used obviously should not have a porous structure capable of absorbing and retaining various liquids and odors, and then releasing them into the environment for a long time.

It is unlikely that unprotected wooden products, open plaster of walls and ceilings, cement-sand floor screed, drywall, paper wallpaper, water-dispersion and emulsion paints should be used in the toilet room.

If you have some experience in the construction business, it will not be difficult to develop a toilet room design and make repairs a reality with your own hands. To do this, you will need to collect, purchase or rent a tool necessary for plumbing, plastering, tiling and other necessary types of work. You also need to make a list of the required materials, and then correctly calculate their number.

For the direct implementation of work on the repair of the toilet room, you need to correctly break these work into stages and determine their sequence.

An old toilet bowl, cistern, sink, valves, sewer pipes, if they are made of plastic, are best dismantled using non-destructive methods. This equipment, if there are no traces of mechanical destruction on it - chips, cracks, may well still be useful for secondary use, for example, at a summer cottage. If it is so outdated that its neat disassembly is not possible, an ordinary sledgehammer is used, with the help of which the plumbing is dismembered into fragments.

To remove old metal water pipes and cast iron sewer pipes, an electric saw - a grinder is usually used. Shards of faience and plastic are then moved to the trash can, and the metal elements to the scrap metal collection point (while the proceeds will help to save a little on repairs).

In apartment buildings built before the early 60s of the last century, toilet bowls with a so-called direct drain, located vertically at the bottom of the device, were often used. Later, oblique flush toilets became the most common, and direct flush toilets are now virtually non-existent on the market. A simple replacement of the direct type with an oblique one will not work. Therefore, repairs in a small toilet will require modernization or alteration of the interfloor public sewer riser.

Permission to perform such work must be agreed with the neighbors and the management company without fail.

Removal of finishing in the toilet

When arranging a toilet room using new materials and technologies, it is best to completely remove it in order to subsequently hide and mask engineering communications in the thickness of the new plaster or cladding.

But first you need to find out the composition and design features of the floors, walls and ceilings of the room.

Interfloor ceilings can be wooden, as well as from monolithic or precast concrete.

The floors of the toilet room can most often be painted, possibly iron-coated cement-sand screed, or poor-quality cladding with low-grade floor ceramic tiles. The surface of the ceilings is plastered and whitewashed.

It is very rare to find in toilets that all four of its walls are load-bearing or capital. Most often it will be only one wall, and the remaining three will be simple partitions, which can be made of wood, brick, gypsum blocks. The walls of a toilet that has not been repaired for a long time will most likely be covered with whitewashed or oil-painted plaster, in some cases tiled with ceramic tiles.

This old cladding can bear traces of many years of build-up and contamination with biological materials, especially in the areas of tile joints.

When disassembling old finishes and cladding, you need to be prepared for the formation of a large amount of debris. It is necessary to limit the spread of dust throughout the living areas of the apartment. If it turns out to be possible for the non-destructive separation of the facing ceramic tiles, it can also be reused after washing or cleaning at a summer cottage, for example, when facing flower beds, flower beds, etc. bit-shaped attachment. For safety reasons, it is best to use a respirator and goggles.

After removing the debris, cleaning with a vacuum cleaner and wet cleaning, the prepared surfaces should be primed. If these are brick or concrete structures, a deep penetration reinforcing primer must be used. For wooden structures, impregnations containing antiseptics are used, which prevent the damage of wood by fungus, mold and rot.

Without fail, waterproofing of the toilet room floor must be restored or re-arranged (in its absence). Previously, overlapping sheets of roofing material were used for this purpose and glued together with hot bitumen. Currently, there are many less complex methods of waterproofing plumbing premises. For waterproofing, you can use roll materials with a fiberglass base, and for insulation of seams, special welding or cold-curing adhesive mastics.

Another option for waterproofing is the application of a latex compound based on synthetic rubber to the surface, which, after curing, gives a seamless layer of a rubber-like coating, up to 5 mm thick. When waterproofing the floor, it should be extended and placed on the surface of adjacent vertical walls to a height of at least 20 cm.

It is best to use polypropylene pipes for laying new utility networks and connecting them to the joints with new plumbing equipment.

In this case, the connection of water pipes is carried out by welding using a special thermal device.

Sewer pipes are brought together using special fittings with a rubber seal, produced in the form of couplings, adapters, tees, crosses, etc. The pipes are hung and fastened on the wall surfaces in such a way that, after finishing and cladding, these communications are invisible.

For more comfort, the toilet can be equipped with warm water floors. To do this, you can lay serpentinely curved metal or plastic pipes at floor level and connect them to the centralized heating system. If financial possibilities allow this, electric heating can be arranged for the floors of the toilet room instead of water heating.

Public utility lines, most often water and sewerage vertical risers, are installed along the main bearing wall of the room. If these pipes are open, the toilet room may not look aesthetically pleasing. In order to hide all these "insides" of engineering communications, but at the same time preserve the possibility of free access to them for maintenance and repair, at a distance of up to 25 ... 30 cm from the wall along which they are located, arrange a so-called false partition with a door or hatch.

The design of the false partitions usually consists of plastic PVC panels fixed on aluminum corners and together with the rear and side walls forms a kind of box in which vertical engineering communications are hidden.

Electrical wiring laying. Before finishing walls and ceilings, hidden electrical wiring should be laid and secured. It must be connected to the future installation locations of lighting fixtures, sockets, switches. In addition, it is sometimes most convenient to run cables through the washroom to power the bathroom or kitchen.
Ceiling, wall, floor decoration. There are many ways in which the floor, walls and ceiling of the toilet room can be finished. It all depends on the desire, taste and material capabilities of the owner of the premises.

For floors and walls, the most suitable and common material is ceramic tiles.

Floors are usually tiled with porcelain stoneware tiles, which have a dense and very strong structure that is resistant to various corrosive liquids with dirt-repelling properties. A variety of sizes, colors, and patterns of this coating allows you to choose the one that best suits the owner's idea.

The walls of toilets and other sanitary facilities are also finished with ceramic tiles. For these purposes, tiles made of kaolin - white clay are used. It has a fine-pored closed-type structure and is environmentally neutral, that is, it does not absorb any foreign odors. From a design point of view, tile cladding should not be uniform, but also be painted in "flashy" bright colors with contrasting patterns. It is better to use tiles in calm pastel colors from light gray to beige.

In this case, it is recommended to arrange a special dividing belt at a distance of 100 ... 120 cm from the floor.

Tile joints in rooms with high humidity, which include washrooms, are best sealed with a silicone polymer based grout. This will ensure the tightness of the seams from moisture and biological contamination entering the cladding.

If the walls and partitions are wooden, plaster them before installing the tiles. For reliable adhesion of the plaster to the walls, a plastic plaster mesh is used as reinforcement.

Sometimes for the walls of the toilets, they use a continuous lining with PVC panels. Despite the fact that this method is considered quite satisfactory for these purposes, it is still low-budget. The choice of plastic panels is quite diverse, including imitation of more expensive finishing materials.

When cladding with plastic panels is used, air pockets and gaps are formed between them and the surface of the walls, into which unfavorable odors can penetrate. Therefore, when choosing this method of finishing, it is recommended to additionally seal the seams between adjacent panels, as well as the joints of the perpendicular planes of walls, floors and ceilings with silicone mastic.

Using wallpaper in washrooms for wall decoration, even with the possibility of regular washing and cleaning from dirt, cannot be a good recommendation for permanent use.The microclimate inevitably present in toilets leads to the fact that such wallpapers very quickly get dirty, get dirty, absorb odors, their color changes, and the pattern fades and loses its saturation.

Wallpaper requires regular replacement. Only chalk whitewash can be worse than using wallpaper in bathrooms.

After finishing work in the toilet room is completed, proceed to the installation of new plumbing equipment. In most cases, this work is limited to installing a toilet bowl and a water tank, as well as connecting a water supply and sewerage system to them.

The toilet is put in place and fixed to the floor at least at two points with special screws on the dowels. Usually, the water tank is a single set with the toilet and can be connected to it already at the factory. If this is not the case, the next step after the toilet is to install the cistern. After that, the toilet is connected to the sewage system, and the tank to the central water supply.

Toilets of a new type, cantilever mounted on the wall and not resting on the floor, are gaining popularity. In addition to saving space in the toilet room, such a toilet device makes it possible to clean directly under the appliance. At the same time, the space behind a conventional toilet bowl is usually difficult to access, and too small, inaccessible for washing, the gap between the floor and the plastic drain at the point of its connection allows dirt to accumulate there and harmful microbes to multiply.

The area of toilet rooms in old houses sometimes allows you to assemble and install additional equipment in these rooms. These include a mini sink for hand washing and a bidet used for hygiene procedures. Installing these devices is no more difficult than connecting a toilet. The main thing that must always be remembered when placing them is that all the plumbing fixtures in the toilet room are convenient and comfortable to use.

Mistakes that are made during repairs in the bathroom and toilet - on the video: