S4ma DIY repair

The site provides information on automatic transmissions
Automatic transmission schemes, variators. The principles of the units.
Repair, disassembly and assembly of automatic transmission.

Good day everyone!
Help the people - the S4MA box, I can't find the manual (I rummaged the whole Internet), it goes in neutral, there is no reverse gear, it seems to go to D normally, but there is no 4th speed.
Where to "dig"? So far, it is in my head to clean / check the valves in the hydraulic brain so that they can walk easily.
By the way, the box is almost completely hydraulic, there are only 2 solenoids controlled by the torque converter lockup.

By the way, the M4MA is like an analogue, I heard only the 4th gear there, the gear ratio is smaller - otherwise the same (if suddenly there is a manual for it)

I can assume that the clutches are soldered, which work forward. What kind of car? Year, volume?

——————–
I offer new and used spare parts for automatic transmission, mail: pp14 on Yandex.
I will buy faulty automatic transmissions and variators.

not not this S4MA, for sure, unless of course the sticker was not re-pasted)))
HONDA LOGO car 98 years old D13B engine volume 1.3
The gearbox is hydraulic, it fits the car 100% I'm not the first one who puts this on the logo, on the log my own was also hydraulic and also with 2 solenoids for blocking the GT

about soldered it seems not - I checked the couplings with my hands are scrolled

I have no such information. According to my information, there is generally a variator.

——————–
I offer new and used spare parts for automatic transmission, mail: pp14 on Yandex.
I will buy faulty automatic transmissions and variators.

I did not elaborate, but in my words “I’m not the first to put it on the log” it was understood that the automatic transmission is not native, then by what data did you find out that the variator should stand? 🙂
I say this is a 4-speed automatic, S4MA, I heard that they were put on CIVIC, INTEGRA, CAPA, PARTNER and like DOMANI.
But I have already downloaded so many manuals. on all cars, even on CR-V tried (some people on another forum hinted that they were installed), there in those manuals (Service manual) there are automatic transmission repair processes, only automatic transmissions there are different. or three-shaft instead of 2-shaft, or 4 solenoids instead of 2x, or 7 selector modes instead of 6.

On my this automatic transmission, the following selector modes are: P R N D4 D3 2

Repair of any automatic transmission from 1 day

CVTs, DSG, torque converters, new and remanufactured automatic transmissions, spare parts

# 1 Post Stanislav 09-03-08, 09:15

tell me who knows what the problem is mileage 172000
the box jerks when translated into drive
reverse gear engages without jerks

you can feel the switching of all speeds on the way
but it happens like this, I go down, then push forward and set speed
the higher the gear, the less jolts

what could be the problem, advise
oil is normal, that is, at the level

I traveled like that for a year, I did not turn on the cold 3. And then it completely stopped turning on. I changed it.

———- Message added at 22:45 ———- Previous message added at 22:43 ———-

My Wife Rides 6 With S4ma

———- Message added at 22:52 ———- Previous message added at 22:45 ———-

Rather, it seems the second was not included. And when it broke above 2, it did not switch. But still before the service by car

Help people who knows where you can download the S4MA automatic transmission repair manual (4x mortar, it was put on the mouthguard, but mine is contractual with CIVIC). The entire Internet probably climbed.

Well, or who knows the possible cause of the malfunction: There is no rear, it goes forward in neutral, but it seems at the 1st speed, in my opinion there is no 4th gear (I googled somewhere like if there is no 4th then there is no rear one because the rear is reversible 4th through the gear special)

forgot to add - on D it seems to switch to the third more or less

vovancheg86 first check the selector cable adjustment.
After which the malfunction appeared?

Wipe, I also thought that the cable) But no, the cable is in order, the box is contractual, the most annoying thing is before installation, so that problems do not arise later, I immediately went through it all (the goal was to inspect the filter and evaluate the state of the box using it, the filter turned out to be almost clean), collected, referring to the photographs of the disassembly, everything should have been ok, but the back one disappeared and in neutral it is rolling forward (((
As I understand it, the valve (s) are stuck somewhere, because I did not check them especially so that they could move freely, the goal was a filter. That's just to know for sure you need to get the booklet.

vovancheg86 "Before installing, so that problems do not arise later, I immediately went through it and washed it all over" - you are a maniac.
Question: where did you get the new gaskets for assembly?

To be honest, I never thought about it. And in general, for the first time I climbed into such a serious unit.However, I solved the problem with gaskets like this:
Gently picked out the old gaskets and applied a thin layer of high-temperature sealant (red), screwed on the lid, then unscrewed and removed the snot inside and outside formed by extrusion.
I then put it on the car and drove (only forward) not a trace of ATF leaking. So for the rogue, this option will do.

So, on the case, someone has a manual, or do you know where to get it, who to ask.

“Gently pried open the old gaskets and applied a thin layer of high temperature sealant (red),”
- Here I have not specified the situation.

In general, there was a native M7CA that died.
There was an ordered contract S4MA.
When installing the contract, my inexperienced comrades and I broke it (we inserted the bolts a little unevenly and began to attract the bolts, then I didn’t pay attention to the fact that one of the bolts my classmate was tightening with an extension pipe, the result was a crack of about 30 cm in the area of ​​the kickdown leg)
After disassembling the S4MA, it turned out that there were no hydraulic circuits and other important things on this part, that it was just a case, that you can buy a killed S4MA and install this case from it.
But then I wanted to disassemble the killed native M7CA, I decided to practice on it, so to speak, I disassembled it almost completely and got to the filter, the filter was full of all kinds of byaki. But most importantly, I noticed that the cases are no different!
Then I decided to rearrange the case from the native box to the contract one.
So when I was taking apart my own, I was in a hurry to break the gasket, so I also had to clean the surface of pieces that had very well adhered.
Separated slowly and neatly on a contract gasket.

vovancheg86 well done that sharing is both informative and interesting. I have a guess. When you took everything off the box and then installed it, I correctly understood that I was taking off the gears or not. if he took it off, he could turn one of them upside down and put it on the wrong side. I mean, the teeth are now looking in the other direction and therefore there is no one speed, but in neutral it moves.

Logo 1997 CVT, 5d., 91 HP, 16V
Better to be the first to doubt than the last to believe.

Have you checked all the holes? Straight one to one?
When did you collect, check the work of the fork?

The manuals are in English and healthy in size, the internet is full of them. Download from torrent.
Or from here
I have nothing in Russian for automatic transmission.

Ooo, finally, links began to be thrown to me. ))
They broke half of the one on the upper link, the holes fit one to one, as if it were))
The only difference I still saw, on my own case there is a blind hole (like a magnet) it is 1-2 cm deeper than on the S4MA case - well, I thought okay, deeper is better than shallower, nothing will hurt)))

By the way, the side covers are also the same, there is no tube on the native one, like that's all (and even then they are removable)

Wipe, what is the name of the archive on that link?

Ab0VE Honda Civic (96-98) Service Manual zip
Ab0VE Honda Civic EJ6, EJ7, EJ8 (96-00) Service Manual zip
there the models of boxes are not given, you yourself choose which is more suitable.

Wipe, I did not find something there ((I probably downloaded all the books, but I did not find S4MA or M4MA (they say the same thing, different gear ratios of the 4th gear), there are some others, or 3-shaft, or if 2-shaft, then with electronically controlled gear shifting - 4 solenoids instead of 2

mihatool if he was shooting, he could have some of them turned upside down and put on the wrong side it is unlikely, so it will not come together then.

Wipe. yes, most likely it will not work out otherwise.

Logo 1997 CVT, 5d., 91 HP, 16V
Better to be the first to doubt than the last to believe.

People! New details have surfaced
Who thinks about the clutch, I am already starting to think that it can be so conceived?
Here's a theme from the droma:

And does anyone have any ideas on the box itself what is wrong?

under the package of clutches and steel discs, disassembled the 3rd gear, it was flat, and on the 4th for some reason a little in waves - is that how it should be? these are springs, they are and should be wavy.
A man came to me, who had a crack in the clutch, and he drove so little, and the clutches were worn out to a piece of iron, which is really a kick-ass to everything.

If the korobas is still on the car, then the book on the car contains an algorithm for checking the automatic transmission pressures and the installation point of pressure gauges (for them, you will need an M8 threaded fitting)

Well, fuck all the advice!
“Take the box to the service station where they will set you a price tag of 30-40 thousand” and do not care what MAY be left to weld the clutch and the automatic transmission will be serviceable? (well, change the rubber bands)
I do not believe that I will break and do worse.
Or do you mean, an ordinary person is not able to disassemble and assemble the automatic transmission and not break it?
About why I got there wrote repeatedly.
By the way, for the money that they require in the service station, it's easier to buy a few automatic transmissions!

And the automatic transmission is in the garage, waiting for the clutch to weld, so I will not measure the pressure, and there is no suitable pressure gauge.

By the way, about “and even without a book,” have you seen the book? I’ve probably been looking for a week, from which machines I didn’t download manuals, I didn’t find it in different boxes. I found similar ones, but this one is not. Looked in similar patterns of fluid movement are very different.
Therefore, if the problem is in hydraulics, then there's no point in such a book with a similar automatic transmission with a gulkin dick

When I had a Honda partner, I used it to collect information that can only be found. Then there was still no book on it. So, in the open spaces of the Russian Internet, I found a photo report on the repair of an automatic transmission, but it was long ago, not a partner, not a laptop on which I downloaded it, is gone. It was a very good report. Look, you can find
As for the books, I have a lot of them, only they are healthy in volume and I have no time or desire to spread them. Is there this particular automatic transmission I xs, maybe I didn't bother with this question.
A hydromechanical automatic transmission is a complex unit; without experience, it is much more likely than correct to assemble it in a garage environment.
Collect in a clean room. By the way, the people who made the report collected it at home.

yeees. that's right. repairs are more expensive than buying.

vovancheg86, are you looking for a “new” contract?

Yes, I guessed it, flushing the valves and replacing the rubber bands did not help (((
There are no hydraulic schemes, I don't even know what to do.
In short, the automatic transmission still goes to N, does not go to R and tries to go to P.

In general, I did not find out what the reason is, I believe that all the same these housings differ in some way (maybe these “inner tubes” are arranged differently) and the liquid runs in the wrong direction, the 1st gear is always on.

I bought the S48A contract for 4500r, got up like a native, rides well, replaced the speedometer foot, otherwise it was too short.

And where did you get the box so cheap, if not a secret?

In Ekaterinburg. First I ordered it in Vladik for 2800, then I thought, counted, decided to take it more expensive and closer. It seems that it turned out even more profitable and came the next day as paid. Himself from Tyumen

kind people help! situeishin next, my wife was driving, the speed was 60 at that moment the box switches but at the moment of switching it starts to twitch in convulsions! my wife drove to the place, parked in front, but after that she could not go backwards, the reverse gear disappeared, everything works as usual in the front, all the lights are on, the reverse signal is working but does not go back! but vpert went better than before, switch smoother and faster, usually the box switched with some kind of dullness, but now it’s like on a normal box! what could be the reason for the reverse gear?

If the time had been used, I would have stupidly disassembled it neatly, I would have looked at what was there and how, something might have jammed, although I hardly think that, the filter would not let the broken grain of sand.
Here's how it was with me: One fine day, the box just started to slip, as if the clutch was slightly pressed on the mechanics, then while I was driving this effect intensified to the point that I got up and could not drive (if I stood a little, then you can drive about 50 meters).
Well, I called all sorts of service stations in Tyumen, almost nowhere they do this, then I lit a cigarette, I think what to do then. I read it on the internet, they say that it is much cheaper and it is better to take a contract, well, I bought it from Vladik, read reviews on the site all that, the cost was 12 thousand rubles somewhere. I thought that the more expensive the better. While installing it, the guys and I broke it. You can find it on the forum, I wrote about this story.
In short, with that native box, this is what happened:
1) Some kind of bearing scattered (you can see from the old age of the box)
2) Bearing crumbs and new shavings clogged a mesh filter in the depth of the box (to get to it, you need to practically disassemble everything)
3) Since the filter is clogged, it reduces the pressure
4) There is no pressure, the clutches are poorly pressed (such as clutch discs)
5) The clutches slip, clog the filter even more

In short, if you have time, you take off the box, disassemble, look at what's what and then order worn-out parts.

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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Replacing defective spare parts for SAMSUNG GALAXY S4

Engineers will replace scratched or cracked glass. They will do it carefully, without damaging the internal elements of the electronic device - loops and microcircuits will not suffer. And for prophylaxis, the client can order the installation of protective glass.

It is required to change the display module or the 5-inch screen itself when the picture is fuzzy or blurred, color spots or stripes appear. The indication for installing a new matrix is ​​mechanical damage. Technicians will eliminate these defects and the image will once again delight the user's eye.

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Owners of home appliances of a well-known South Korean brand will be interested in how a Samsung washing machine is repaired with their own hands.

Unfortunately, sometimes it is necessary to eliminate breakdowns and leaks of washing machines, even in an expensive price segment, and knowledge of error codes and related malfunctions may also be required.

First, you should familiarize yourself a little with the main features of these machines. First, it is stylish design.

Secondly, it is the original design of the drum.Modern modifications of Samsung washing machines are equipped with a fundamentally new technical solution - Drum Diamond Drum .

It belongs to an innovative type of honeycomb drums with a surface covered with many convex pyramids and small water holes, into which the fabric is not drawn.

Thanks to this design, a gentle wash cycle is provided. These drums can be very spacious - with a load of up to 12 kg of laundry, depending on the model of the machine.

Thirdly, worthy of attention heaters with double ceramic coatingnot covered with limescale, and inverter motorattached directly to the drum in some modifications.

Also interesting are the functions Fuzzy Logic and Smart Check responsible for the correct calculation of the washing mode depending on the amount of loaded laundry, as well as for diagnosing various machine malfunctions.

The number of wash programs depends on the model of the washing machine. Even the simplest modifications are equipped with all the necessary set of programs, and the new models have a washing mode called ECO Bubble - with the help of air bubbles, laundry is easier to wash even in cold water.

If the machine is marked with Wf, it means that this model is front-loaded, and if its name contains the abbreviation WD, it means that the machine is equipped with a built-in dryer.

But Samsung brand machines also have one small drawback - their instability to voltage drops in the network, which is important in our Russian reality.

When the voltage becomes either too high or low, then a control system called Volt Control simply turns off the washing mode to resume it immediately after the mains voltage has stabilized. This is not always convenient, so it is better to connect the washing machine through a voltage regulator.

After a short acquaintance with the parameters of this brand, let's move on to considering the main breakdowns.

To understand the malfunction that has arisen, you need to consider the most common of them and the reasons for their occurrence.

Here is a list of common problems:

Further, the methods of repairing them with your own hands will be considered, because it is not always possible to call the master. And for this you need to have a set of necessary tools.

Before starting the repair, you need to make sure that all the tools from this list are available:

• flat and Phillips screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• set of wrenches;
• pliers, pliers, wire cutters;
• tweezers - elongated and curved;
• powerful flashlight;
• long-handled mirror;
• soldering iron;
• gas-burner;
• small hammer;
• knife.

In addition to the listed tools, you may need a magnet to pull out small metal objects inside the machine, a long metal ruler to align the drum, a multimeter or voltage indicator.

But that's not all. In addition to the required set of instruments, the following building materials will need to be purchased for repairs:

• sealant;
• Super glue;
• insulating resin;
• soldering materials - rosin, flux, etc .;
• wires;
• clamps;
• current fuses;
• rust remover;
• electrical tape and scotch tape.

Sometimes a multimeter is not needed, it is enough to turn on the machine and select a mode with a high water temperature. From the operation of an apartment electricity meter, it is easy to understand whether the heating element is receiving power.

If you are a beginner, then you can advise using a camera to shoot video or to photograph the workflow, so as not to confuse the sequence of actions and then correctly assemble the machine.

There are several important rules to remember that must be followed before starting repair work:

• it is necessary to drain all the water from the machine;
• before disassembly, be sure to (!) disconnect the device from the power supply;
• choose a bright and spacious enough place for renovation.

If the unit cannot be moved to a convenient location, then ensure maximum illumination of the workplace.

The first step is to remove the top panel of the washing machine.

The second step is to take out the container for powders, this is not difficult to do. Next, you need to remove the cuff from the hatch. Caution is needed here. Use a screwdriver to pry the retaining clip, remove it, and then remove the O-ring. This should be done carefully, trying not to tear the soft rubber.

It was the turn of the control panel. In order to remove it, you need to unscrew two screws on the front of the panel and one on the right.

Next, you can proceed to dismantle the lower front panel. Pulling the latch lever, we separate the basement part of the facade - access to the drain filter and the hose for the emergency filter is open. The front panel can now be removed by unscrewing the eight fixing screws. The heating element and the drain pump open.

If during the repair process it is necessary to remove the tank and drum, then we advise you not to do this alone. Be sure to involve an assistant in this matter. Before removing the tank, you need to de-energize the heating element, disconnect all pipes, as well as the electrical wiring from the motor.

To do this, put the machine on its side, then remove the 4 screws on the bottom cover. The engine opens with a counterweight secured by shock absorbers. Disconnect the wiring from the connectors. Here it is important to remember what is attached to what, therefore, before disassembling, it is advisable to photograph everything, in order to then repeat everything exactly as in the picture.

But it remains to disconnect the drive belt from the engine. To do this, simply remove the belt from the pulley. Remember to put the drive belt on the small drive pulley first, then slide it over the large driven pulley and align to the center of the pulley when putting on the belt.

We present to you a diagram of the device, which will be very useful for repairs. The technical content of machines of different brands is about the same, and if you have already come across the replacement of spare parts for a washing machine, then it will be easier for you to cope with the next repair.

Now you can start a story about certain types of breakdowns and how to repair them.

The most common cause is insufficient water pressure. Then the machine stops, and in order to start it again, it must be turned off and then turned on again. If there is a lot of laundry loaded, for the machine to start, just turn it off and remove the excess.

If there is a break in the power cord or initially poor contact in the power button, then the device periodically turns off by itself. The machine may also stop if it is not level and slightly skewed.

To solve this problem, first check the water pressure in the water supply system, and also make sure that the valve supplying water to the machine is open well.

You should be aware that the free end of the drain hose connected from below must be located at a height of more than 2/3 of the height of the device, otherwise water will immediately pour out of the machine.

There are many reasons for this problem. Sometimes it is enough just to clean the powder container well - due to its clogging, water can simply flow out of it.

If, after checking these hoses, you are convinced that everything is in order with them, then the reason lies in the O-ring.

It is necessary to check the tightness of the seals, both in the door and in the connection of the filling hose. If they are worn out, they should be replaced. Then you need to check the drain pump and hose for foreign objects stuck there.

Therefore, the wash water is not heated. This is due to the failure of the heating element, but do not rush to change it - this may also be damage to the electrical wiring.

Therefore, you should carefully check the entire electrical circuit, as well as the contacts of the heating element itself, using a multimeter. If the tester shows the presence of voltage in the entire circuit, then this means that the heating element will still have to be replaced.

The place where the heater is installed should be thoroughly cleaned, only after that it will be possible to mount a new heating element.

The most common cause of noise is incorrect machine installation.Because of this, the unit produces a strong hum during spinning. For this, the position of the machine must be leveled using a spirit level.

But sometimes excessive noise can occur due to heavy wear on the bearings. It is impossible to fix them - only to change them. For an inexperienced repairman, this is a rather difficult task, because it may be necessary to saw and then glue the non-separable tank, behind which the bearing is located. Therefore, if you are not sure of your skill, then do not take up this business, it is better to call a qualified specialist.

But if the tank of your car can be disassembled, then this task can be within your power. To do this, you need to remove the tank, then disassemble it by unscrewing the bolts and disconnecting the fastening latches.

After the unusable bearing has already been removed, you should thoroughly clean the shaft, check if it is worn out, and then just install a new bearing.

Finally, we present a short list of error codes that are most often issued by the unit.

E1 - system error when filling with water. Means that the required water level during filling is not reached within 20 minutes. Eliminated by turning off and then turning on the machine.

E2 - error when draining. Most often occurs when the drain filter is clogged.

E3 - too much water. You do not need to do anything, the water is automatically drained within 2 minutes.

E4 - too many things. Their mass does not correspond to the parameters of the machine. You need to extract the excess.

E5 - water heating does not work.

E6 - malfunction of the heating element.

E7 - malfunction of the water level sensor in the tank.

E8 - water heating does not match the selected wash program. Most often due to problems with the heating element.

E9 - water leakage or drain, recorded more than 4 times.

DE, DOOR - bad blocking. Most often - a badly closed hatch door.

We bring to your attention a good video that you need to watch before you start replacing the bearing yourself.

The process of dismantling and replacing bearings:

What the disassembly process looks like:

Before starting an independent repair, you always need to correctly assess your own strength and not take on overwhelming work. But repairing a washing machine yourself is not very difficult, it is enough to understand a little about mechanics, electrical engineering, and also have the necessary tools and materials at hand. You will succeed!

Korean manufacturers produce high-quality appliances, including washing machines.

Usually, if a company is engaged in the production of various household appliances, and not just one kind of it, it is considered that the product is rather mediocre. This cannot be said about the Samsung brand.

A diversified product is in great demand among buyers, regardless of whether it is a household appliance or a telephone.

The company maintains its image by giving all its strength and knowledge to production. But, like any manufacturer, high-quality Samsung equipment also breaks down. We can not always turn to repairs: then there is no money, then there is time.

In order not to spend money on the restoration of the unit in the service center, it is best to perform the simplest operations to restore the equipment yourself. Today we will tell you how to repair a Samsung washing machine with your own hands.

Most often, heating elements, filler valves deteriorate in washers, drive belts are damaged.

1. Open the back cover of the device.
2. The belt must be pulled with one hand midway between the pulley and the motor to pull it out. Take a Phillips screwdriver, insert it into the groove of the pulley, and support the belt with your other hand.
3. Slide the screwdriver over the groove, freeing up any large portions of the belt and pulling it out of the groove.
4. When the belt has been removed, carefully inspect it from all sides for scuffs, damage. If any, replace it with a new one.
5. Now you need to put it on the pulley. Place the inside of the strap against the groove. To make the drive belt finally secure in place and get dressed quickly, turn the pulley with your other hand a little.

The pump consists of several parts:

1. electric motor;
2. shaft;
3. impellers (impeller);
4. a snail to which a branch pipe and a drain hose are connected.

Signs of a pump breakdown:

• The laundry is not rinsed or rinsing does not work at all.
• The car stops.
• Spin does not start.
• The water does not drain or it takes a very long time to drain.
• Washing powder is not completely washed off with water when it is collected, but remains in a small amount in the cuvette.

First of all, you need to determine whether the pump was the cause of the breakdown of the washing machine or not.

Listen to the pump. If it hums, makes noise, trying to turn on, water does not fill up or does not make any sounds, this means that the pump is broken.

Do-it-yourself Samsung washing machine pump repair is carried out in the following order:

• unscrew the drain filter and clean it. The pump impeller may be jammed due to debris;
• if, after cleaning the filter, you have not achieved a positive result, water has neither been poured nor poured into the device, then there may be a blockage in the drain hose. Dismantle it and rinse it. Then put it back and run the test wash. If the pump continues to work incorrectly, look for the malfunction further;
• unscrew the filter and look into the holes, shining a flashlight. Feel the pump impeller with your fingers and try to twist it. If it rotates with difficulty, then feel for the debris that interferes with it: threads, hair and remove them;
• if the pump impeller rotates freely, then disassemble the washing machine further to check the pump malfunction. The pump does not work correctly, mainly due to its blockage.

Therefore, the drain pump and the pipe must be thoroughly flushed. But to get rid of the blockage, you need to remove them.

To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

1. remove the container;
2. put the typewriter on its side;
3. unscrew the bottom protection;
4. remove the drain pump and pipe. Place a well-absorbent cloth under the pump, because when you take it off, some water will pour out;
5. disconnect the clamp to release the branch pipe;
6. disconnect the plug from the drain pump sensor;
7. to remove the pump, loosen the clamp and unscrew the fasteners.
8. remove the drain pump, turn on the hot water tap and place the hose under it so that the debris is flushed out of the hose and makes a passage for water;
9. fix the bottom;
10. put the washing machine back and check if it works.

The reasons for pump failure can be different. Do-it-yourself repair of the drain pump of the Samsung washing machine depends on the causes of the breakdown.

• If it's not a blockage, disassemble the pump: unscrew the snail. At the same time, take a picture of how the electric motor is connected to it, so that you can then assemble it correctly. If the cause of the breakdown lies in the casing, which is deformed from hot water, and the impeller blades touch it, then cut each blade with a knife by 1 mm, not more. Otherwise, the power of the washing machine will be much lower.
• The impeller can also be the cause of pump breakdown. It can simply jump off the axis: it hums, but does not pump water. In this case, the impeller must be replaced.
• Review all rubber gaskets. If any of them is cracked, rubbed, torn, then replace it.
• Sometimes the pulley fails. It can also be replaced.