Homemade removers for auto repair do it yourself

In this topic, drawings of pullers and devices for car repairs, as well as drawings of special tools will be given.

The following drawings are currently available:

Drawing of the front suspension strut rod nut puller.

Drawing of a universal screw puller for steering rods.

Drawing of the front and rear suspension spring ties.

Drawing of a puller for pressing out the rear suspension shock absorber silent block.

Drawing of a puller for pressing in the silent block of the rear suspension shock absorber.

Front and rear wheel bearing puller drawing.

Drives for knocking out wheel bearing

Photo of drifts for knocking out a wheel bearing

Drives for pressing in wheel bearing

Photo of mandrels for pressing in the front and rear wheel bearing VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099, VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115. The photo also shows rings from old wheel bearings, they also help with pressing.

Drawing of a puller for replacing the rubber-metal hinges of the rear beam.

Replacing the rubber-metal hinges of the rear beam

Drawing of a puller for replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension arm.

Puller for replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension arm

A device for compressing brake cylinders.

The brake cylinder compressor is made from old brake pads. Everything seems to be visible in the photo.

Photo of a device for compressing brake cylinders.

Drawing of the brake cylinder compression device

How do you know if a wheel bearing is out of order? By the sound! The main symptom is a hum, which intensifies during acceleration. If it occurs only occasionally, then the bearing has just begun to break. A constant suspicious sound when the load increases means that this part of the car needs to be replaced immediately. In any case, you will need a bearing puller to carry out repairs. You can buy it or do it yourself.

Using this tool, you can dismantle bearings, bushings, pulleys, flanges and other assemblies, remove or fix rings and gears, and repair chassis elements. It greatly facilitates the process of maintenance and repair of various parts of the vehicle. Using the correct puller, you can quickly and easily replace a damaged element without the risk of damaging the connected machine elements. In addition, the tool can be used to work with hard-to-reach parts of a car, in a convenient position.

Products can have different designs, but most often the following is found - several gripping paws, which are in the form of hooks, and a threaded rod between them. Thanks to this structure, you can easily grab the required element and press the bearing out of it.

Instruments are classified into two groups.

• Hydraulic. During their operation, hydraulic traction is used, lifting and landing are performed in a semi-automatic mode. The main part of such a puller is a hydraulic nut, the inner cavity of which presses on a special piston. That, in turn, transfers the effort to the desired part. The hydraulic model is in demand among owners of trucks and other large-sized vehicles - with its help you can easily remove the most massive internal parts.

This is what a hydraulic bearing puller looks like

• Mechanical. They act on the muscular strength of a person, are in demand for mounting / dismounting wheel bearings. There are two-grip, three-grip and internal. Two-grip are the simplest.They are used wherever maximum process control is needed. Three-grip are equipped with three legs and are used for working with the front hub and generator. Internal options are useful for removing ball and needle roller bearings, in addition, they can be used to dismantle various brass couplings.

Bearing pullers come in different sizes, but the most popular are the universal ones. Their parameters can be adjusted manually, adjusting to any diameter.

You can make different tools with your own hands, but it is best to make a universal three-grip version - it is convenient to use.

Two-grip puller diagram

To make a universal three-arm puller designed to work with bearings ranging in size from 202 to 308, you will need:

• sheet metal (10 mm wide);
• round metal with a diameter of 30 mm.

If you plan to remove large bearings, use 15 mm wide sheet metal and 30 mm round timber.

1. The first stage of manufacturing is a sketch. Calculate the length of the legs - it should be 200 mm. Sketch the sheet metal according to the drawing and cut the legs with a propane / oxygen gas cutter.
2. Sand the piece with a large emery cloth. The dimensions of all legs should be approximately the same, but absolutely perfect parameters are not required - a difference of about 1 mm is allowed. When this part of the work is complete, you need to drill two holes in the top of each foot - they will be used to expand the tool. The diameter of the holes should correspond to the diameter of the bolts by 8 or 10. If you plan to work with large bearings, drill 3 holes at 12 or 14.
3. Making the core. It is made of round metal with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 35 mm (50 and 45 mm if it is necessary to work with massive bearings). We take a workpiece and drill a hole in it for a thread of 16 mm (30 if necessary in a larger product), cut a thread with a fine pitch. On the sides, every 120 degrees, we apply marks to which we then weld the foot holders. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foot. Now you need to drill holes in the holders. They should be positioned at a certain distance from the center so that the tab can grip the large bearing.
   This is how the details of the future puller should look
4. The final part of the work is making the screw. For a standard puller, you need a 350 mm screw with a thread length of 280 mm, for a large one - 500 mm with a 420 mm thread. We process blanks on a lathe, cut threads. We leave the upper part without thread - there you need to drill through holes located perpendicular to one another, with a slight offset in height.

Finished product appearance

This option is simpler in execution, but the product will not be so convenient. You will need the following tools and materials:

• steel pipe, the inner diameter of which will be greater than the bearing diameter;
• metal plate more than 5 mm thick;
• Bulgarian;
• a stud with a nut or a bolt with a long thread;
• a few nuts.

1. Cut off a piece of pipe of the required parameters.
   Cut off part of the pipe
2. We mark all the necessary elements on a metal sheet, we circle the pipe and the bearing.
   Marking up future details
3. We cut out the details with a grinder, grind them to match the exact parameters.
   Cut parts
4. We drill holes for the bolt in the washers obtained.
   Drilling bolt holes
5. That's it, the puller is ready!

Ready puller

Making a bearing puller with your own hands is not at all difficult - neither expensive materials nor specific skills are needed. Using the instructions, you can easily cope with the task and get a useful tool for auto repair.

Immediately, we note that replacing silent blocks without a puller is fraught with damage to the parts of the mechanism.Very "smart" craftsmen resort to hammering the inside of the device with a hammer, but this leads to the fact that the uneven fit of the inside can be damaged.

The hydraulic silent block remover allows you to detach one part of the device from another, so as not to damage them. Its scheme of work is based on twisting or twisting a special long device with a thread, which will evenly lower or raise the inner part. This process is called press-fitting and the smoother and more uniform it is, the longer the life of the device will be.

When repairing a car, it is important to remember that the suspension must be in its working position before repairing its component parts. If this rule is ignored, then the installed silent block can significantly reduce the time of its high-quality work.

Depending on what type of mechanism is on the car (with or without partitions), the type of installation will change. But this is absolutely not important given what the puller should be. It can be either purchased or homemade. The scheme of its work in one case or another is the same: one part is attached to the internal block, and the other to the external one. Using the twisting method, one part is removed from the other.

Before starting to work on the production of silent blocks with your own hands, you should consider the drawing of the silent blocks remover and see the finished store version. In the markets, such devices have a similar appearance to home ones, since their design is very simple - a few metal parts and bolts of the appropriate size.

The hydraulic silent block remover is universal. With it, you can carry out both the removal of devices and press fitting. It is not difficult to make such a mechanism - just a few parts and a couple of hours of time are enough, but you can use it every time you repair suspension parts.

So, the tools that will be needed for the production of a puller are: a set of a motorist with many keys and screwdrivers, a small section of a strong metal pipe with a diameter that is slightly larger than the silent block taken, several large steel washers, a long bolt with high-quality threads, special clothing and construction gloves.

The work progress should be as follows:

1. We study completely the device of the car and, in particular, its suspension. We look at the new and old parts, analyze their device and try to understand how best to use the puller.
2. On one side of the prepared pipe we insert the silent block, which should be replaced according to plan, and on the other side of the pipe we insert a new mechanism. The scheme of work is to squeeze out the old one with a new part (this way neither one nor the second will be damaged).
3. We direct the new silent block 100% exactly into the seat, take the prepared bolt and screw it into the center. The initial tightening can be a little hard, in which case it is worth hitting the parts a little with a hammer and continuing the process. Starting in the middle, this bolt will slide so easily that it can be turned with two fingers. But perform this process only with gloves so as not to damage the limbs.
4. If you want to keep the old part, then such a puller does not provide for this process and the worn part can simply fall on the sand. Therefore, you can additionally build a small stand that will perform this function. It can be a simple cup with wire-shaped metal handles or some other device.

There are other methods and tools at hand that can serve as a removable mechanism. When creating such a device with your own hands, consider what is in your garage and what is the least necessary. It is these details that can be used. Analyze and turn on thinking - something will immediately come to your mind.

It should be understood that depending on which car beam is being repaired, there may be a different silent block, but the instructions for creating a puller described above will be suitable for different types of devices and can be used for both the rear and the front.

When creating a device, it is worth remembering that a certain car model has its own parameters and its own details, which may be different in structure and size. It is important to take into account all the features of the car so that the created puller is suitable and can work with this device.

At the end of the article, I would like to note that a serviceable silent block helps the car to go smoothly, without unnecessary hesitation. It can sufficiently remove vibrations that come from one part of the machine to another, thereby making the movement more comfortable. A caring driver always monitors the state of the car's suspension, therefore, adjacent parts are very important to him. It is not so difficult to make a remover for silent blocks with your own hands, so try to make it from scrap materials - this way you will save a lot of money. Good luck in job!

The video shows how to replace the bushings of the lower arms of a classic VAZ car using a universal puller.

During the repair of the chassis and steering, there is almost always a need to remove the ball bearings or steering rod ends.

A feature of these structural elements is that the pin of the support or tip has a conical shape, with which it fits into the seat.

During operation, the planting density increases so much that the surfaces of this compound practically stick to each other.

In addition, moisture can enter between the pin and the socket, causing corrosion centers, which further seal the connection.

Therefore, to remove the ball bearings or tips, special pullers are used to press out the finger with minimal effort.

The auto tool market offers a wide selection of such removable mechanisms, which can be divided into two types:

Screw pullers are considered universal and are suitable for work with almost any vehicle.

The force in them is created by screwing the bolt into the puller body. The body itself is put on the lug of the support, and when tightened, the bolt rests on the support pin and presses it out of the socket.

Lever removable mechanisms are no less effective, but they are larger in size, so they may not be suitable for every car.

For example, with such a puller on the VAZ-2107, the upper ball joint can still be removed, but it will not work to get to the lower one due to the very limited space.

For these purposes, a special puller is used.

The essence of a lever puller is reduced to the presence of two levers, interconnected in the middle.

On the one hand, holes have been made in them and a tightening bolt is installed.

For pressing, one lever is installed between the eyelet and the support, while the second lever is obtained under the finger.

When the bolt is unscrewed due to the existing connecting axle, the ends of the levers begin to converge, and the pin is pushed out.

But it is not necessary to purchase a removable mechanism, it can easily be made at home from improvised means.

Next, we will consider several types of ball joint and steering tip pullers that you can make yourself.

The simplest puller is the so-called "wedge". It does not belong to any type of removable mechanism, but at the same time it is a fairly effective device for pressing out.

To make it, you just need an angle grinder ("grinder"), you can also use a machine with an abrasive wheel.

A metal plate the size of a matchbox will act as a blank.

First, it is necessary to give the workpiece the shape of a wedge, for which we grind the metal with a "grinder" or a machine so that in profile the plate looks like a triangle. Then with the same "grinder" we make a cut in the middle for 2/3 of the length of the workpiece from the side of the apex of the triangle, that is, from the thin side of the wedge. The width of the cut should be slightly greater than the thickness of the support pin, that is, a kind of bracket should be obtained.

If desired, you can weld a metal rod to the bracket, which will further facilitate the work with the wedge.

Pressing out the pin with a wedge is very simple. It is installed in the gap between the lug and the support body. And then the wedge is simply hammered with a hammer, which leads to the finger jumping out of the socket.

The disadvantage of the wedge is that the boot will be damaged during the pressing process. Therefore, the wedge can only be used when changing supports or tips.

If the suspension and steering mechanism are being repaired, which does not imply the replacement of ball elements, it is better not to use a wedge.

The second type of removable mechanism that can be made from available tools is a screw expanding mechanism. It is great for replacing the ball joints of classic VAZ models.

A feature of the suspension design of these cars is that the upper and lower supports are located symmetrically to each other and the distance between them is not large.

It can be made at home only if you have a drilling machine, or you will have to contact a lathe. This puller consists of only two parts.

To make it, you need a square or hexagonal rod with 17 or 19 turnkey edges, the length of which is 7 cm. In this rod we make a hole using a drilling machine and cut the thread for the bolt by 8. Screw in the bolt and that's it - the puller is ready.

How it works, consider the example of the VAZ-2107. To press out the upper support, it is necessary to unscrew the lock nut, but not completely, it is not necessary to remove it. Then we install between the pins of the supports a manufactured puller with a bolt tightened all the way.

To squeeze out the finger, we take two keys - with one we hold the manufactured case, and with the second we unscrew the bolt until the finger breaks off the socket. After replacing the upper support, we do the same, but with the lower one.

The third type of removable mechanism that you can make yourself is also a screw one, but it has shown itself to be excellent and allows you to work on any car.

To make it, you need a round metal rod with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of 15-17 cm.

It is necessary to make an L-shaped workpiece from it with a shoulder length of 5 cm.That is, we take a rod, measure 5 cm on it, clamp it in a vice and bend it 90 degrees with a hammer.

Cut a thread on the long part of the workpiece and select a nut.

It remains to make a stop bar. You can make it like the wedge described above. That is, we take a plate, but 0.5 cm thick.On one side, we make a cut for the support finger.

If necessary, you can reduce the thickness of the plate on the side of the cut by grinding off the metal layer. The main thing is that the plate fits into the gap between the support body and the eyelet, while it does not turn out to be too thin, otherwise it will bend during the pressing process.

On the other hand, from the cut we make a hole for the L-shaped workpiece. It remains only to put the plate on the long part of the rod. If the thread is not long enough to squeeze the finger, then you can put several washers under the nut.

This puller works like this: We unscrew the nut almost to the end, set the plate in the gap between the support and the eyelet, and turn the rod so that the short shoulder rests on the finger.

Then we simply tighten the nut, while the plate will act as a stop, and the rod will squeeze out the finger with a short shoulder.

Another screw puller can be made from a metal angle and a welding machine.

To do this, we take a corner with sides of 7-8 cm and the same length and thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm.

We make a cut in one of the sides to fix the mechanism on the eyelet. Cut out two triangles from sheet metal 0.3 cm thick, which will protrude as braces. They need to be welded on the sides to the corner. This will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

We take a nut 17 and a long bolt under it. We weld the nut itself perpendicular to the cut so that the hole faces the cut.

So that in the future the bolt can be easily positioned on the same axis with the finger, before fixing the nut by welding, a spacer must first be welded to the corner.

All that remains is to screw in the bolt and the puller can be used.

These are the simplest types of removable mechanisms that you can make yourself.

In general, there are a lot of options, besides, having a little imagination and basic knowledge of plumbing, you can easily come up with and make your own puller.

We offer you some drawings for viewing.

We will consider another type, which is used not to press out the finger, but to extract the support itself.

The fact is that on a number of cars (Peugeot, Citroen), the ball joint is screwed into the lever. Over time, the threaded connection will sour, and it is quite difficult to unscrew this suspension element without a special tool.

But you can make the necessary puller yourself, and not spend money on a factory one.

It is made from a 2 ”thick-walled pipe, 8-9 cm long.

From the end of this pipe, it is necessary to make 4 spikes 5 mm wide and 7 mm high, located at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other.

That is, there should be 4 protrusions at the end of the pipe, evenly distributed around the circumference. This can be done with a hacksaw for metal and a file, or with a "grinder".

From the other end, we make cuts to a depth of 3 cm, dividing the pipe circumference into 8 parts.

Then we bend these petals with a hammer to the center, significantly reducing the diameter.

We take a nut for 24, and we weld it to the end part, and then we seal up the slots made with a welding machine.

It is quite convenient to work with such pullers - we put it on the support, so that the spikes go into special grooves on the support body.

In this case, the finger will pass through the manufactured tool, which will allow the locking nut to be screwed onto it, thereby fixing the puller. It remains only to unscrew the support with a 24 wrench for the welded nut.

Finally, we note that it is possible to press out the support or tip finger even if it is not possible to make a removable mechanism. But this method should only be used as a last resort. You will need a pry bar and hammer to remove the finger.

The pry bar is used as a lever and must be positioned so as to create a force to release the support or tip, for example, place it between the tie rod and the eye of the rack.

After creating a force with a pry bar, it is necessary to apply powerful blows to the body of the eyelet with a hammer. If everything is done correctly, then after 2-3 strokes the finger pops out.

The disadvantage of this method is that shock loads can damage the eyelet, so it is still advisable to use pullers, and not knock out the support.