Hello everyone. Let me introduce you to a short instruction in which I will tell you how to replace faulty bearings in a washing machine drum. Very often there are questions from owners of washing machines on the topic of noise during operation and replacement of bearings. The noise during washing is primarily emitted by the drum bearing. I have washing machine samsungR1043... She worked for 6 years during which there were no complaints about her.
There were a lot of laundry during this period, I think about one and a half washes a day.
After 6 years, I thought about changing the washing machine to a new model. Chose a car Lg with a direct motor. And like a custom-made machine Samsung started making noise when washing. I purchased the selected model, which by the way is very quiet.
Since the call of the master and the consumables would cost me a normal amount, I decided to repair the machine myself. If you do it carefully, then everything will certainly work out. The main thing is to keep your arms straight. Next, I suggest you something like instructions for disassembling the washing machine and replacing the drum bearings. The article is voluminous due to the large number of photos, but it will be easier to understand the process of disassembling and replacing bearings.
First, let's decide on the necessary tool. Since I started not knowing that I would need a tool, I was looking for a repair. Here is a list of the entire set for you.
Video (click to play).
Since it is necessary to get to the drum of the machine to replace the bearings, it is necessary to disassemble it completely. Some models have a special cover on the back of the case, which provides access to the motor, belt indiscriminately. However, my model had to be completely disassembled. To do this, you need enough space so that it is more convenient to work and expand the parts.
Let's start disassembling. You must first remove the top cover, which is attached with two self-tapping screws from the back. To remove the cover, you must move it away from the face of the machine and lift it.
Remove the washing powder tray. The container is removed and three hoses are disconnected from it, they are clamped with metal clamps. It is convenient to open these clamps with pliers.
After removing the cover, it immediately catches your eyes large counterweight... The names of the parts are mine, since I do not know what they are actually called, but I think everything will be clear to you. Remove the large counterweight, which is attached with two long bolts.
We unscrew the bolts and remove the counterweight by lifting it up.
The counterweight is not light, so don't drop it or split it. By the way, it looks like a cast piece of cement mortar.
The body of the machine is connected to the drum by a rubber casing, which is attached to the drum by a large steel wire clamp. It is loosened by loosening the bolt.
Drum body without counterweight (top view).
Next, we put the car on its side and remove the bottom cover. It is made of plastic and is held by 4 self-tapping screws. Unscrew and remove.
A small counterweight, an electric motor and a pump are hidden behind the bottom cover, which are attached to the drum body. This whole structure rests on the body of the machine with two shock absorbers.
Next, we need to disconnect all cables from the contacts of the electric motor and pump.
Disconnect the two shock absorbers from the washer body, which are bolted down.
From the side of the top cover to the body is connected water inlet, unscrew it without disconnecting the wires. (wires will not interfere with us).
From above, the drum body is supported by spring hangers. Using pliers, first disconnect the hooks from the drum body, and then from the machine body. We'll have to suffer a little, but everything will work out for sure!
In order to take out the drum, it is necessary to remove the front part of the washing machine. First, unscrew the control panel and then remove the front part with the door. All of them are fastened with self-tapping screws. The screwdriver did it in half a minute.
And here we have a disassembled car body. We unscrew the small counterweight to make it easier to remove the drum body.
Here is such a small counterweight.
Those same spring hangers.
Now we carefully take out the drum body and place it on the floor. Before us is the main part of the washing machine.
At the back, remove the belt that connects the drum wheel and the electric motor.
An 8-point hexagon bolt attaches the wheel to the body. We unscrew it and remove the wheel.
We begin to disassemble the drum body.
We unscrew the shock absorbers first, unscrew the bolts not to the end, but only to free the second half of the body. Shock absorbers are not only attached to the drum body, but also pull together.
The body consists of two parts, which are compressed by brackets and clamps. It is easy to remove the clamps with a wrench.
You can easily remove the staples with a flat screwdriver.
Let me remind you once again to make marks in order to properly assemble the case.
We open the case and observe what is inside.
After I opened the drum, I saw an unpleasant picture. the heating element was completely covered with limescale. The plastic case itself and the drum were covered with scale.
The heating element is not easy to remove. The nut is unscrewed from the outside and it is squeezed out. You must first descale it. The element is fixed with an elastic band that expands after tightening the nut.
Now we detach the drum from the second half of the body.
Removal of the drum showed that the oil seal was unusable. The oil seal should protect the bearing from moisture, but it got to them, and they began to make noise during operation.
All scale from the body was removed with an ordinary metal brush for washing dishes. She does not scratch and does her job well. The scale turned out to be two full handfuls.
The outer bearing was ok, however I decided to replace all bearings. I knocked out the outer one (it's small) from the inside with a thick screwdriver and a hammer, gently tapping on the bearing rings. You have to be careful here, since the bearing is located in the aluminum sleeve so as not to scratch it. The inner bearing (large) was knocked out from the outside to the inside with a metal tube of a similar diameter.
As a result, all the repairs cost me only 350 rubles.
After working for 6 years, the machine is in excellent condition, not counting the scale. I am pleased with the Samsung, but I bought LG, which proved to be very good, quiet and many modes of operation.
By the way, in order for the machine to serve you longer, you need to set it by level and check its position from time to time. Over time, due to vibrations, the washer can move out of place.
In the comments, a question was raised about an error that signals a blockage in the drain pump. Here is an interesting video that shows you how to remove the pump from a Samsung washing machine, clean it and check the quality of work.
Recently I found out a way to protect your washing machine from limescale.
I will accumulate interesting questions in the subsection of this FAQ article a little lower.
Thanks to the author for the instruction, replaced the bearings. although everyone said that it was better not to go into the machine.
To the author, my thanks! The casing got dressed without any problems. I would also advise you to have a marker in the instruments, to note all sorts of subtleties. Everything is working.
Thanks, saved $ 150.
Hooray. Everything worked out. It works. 2 times changed the bearing ... .. Thank you very much.
Thank you, it is great and understandable written.
mine worked for 5 years and the situation is exactly the same. Tomorrow I will take on changing the bearing, then I will write what happened, but everything is described in detail, given that I always try to do everything myself (this saves money and gives experience) your experience is very useful to me, thank you!
According to our description, everything is simple. Thank you.
Thank you for the detailed description of the repair process! It helped a lot.
Many thanks! I have the same model, also 6 years of work, and the bearings also rustled and the drum started to play. Now everything is clear and understandable what exactly to do.
In order to repair a Samsung washing machine with your own hands, you must have knowledge in plumbing, electrical engineering and have the necessary tools at hand. Self-elimination of malfunctions does not cause great difficulties, but it allows you to significantly save your home budget. It is not known how much the repair costs, but, as a rule, the prices for its implementation are quite substantial.
Over time, especially with improper operation, any unit fails. The washing machine is no exception. Samsung devices have proven to be of high quality and reliable, but they also have weak points. As a result of the analysis, it turned out that the most frequent breakdowns are the following:
wear or tear on the drive belt;
failure of the heating element (heating element);
failure of the filler valve;
malfunction of the drain pump;
destruction of the drain pipe.
According to statistics, heating elements and drive belts most often fail. As a rule, this happens due to errors in operation.
In addition, you need to know that each detail has a certain life span. For example, brushes of an electric motor have a service life of 8-12 years, a bearing unit - 6-8 years. Of course, these terms can be extended, but, unfortunately, not by much. So sooner or later, your washing machine will "ask for help."
To carry out a quality repair, you need to carefully prepare for it. This means that in addition to the tool, it is necessary to find a place where the machine will be repaired. It should be large enough and well lit. A garage is best suited for these purposes. For more detailed information about the device and car repair, you must definitely watch a video on this topic.
Before repairing, it is imperative to prepare a tester, a soldering iron, grease (for example, Litol-24), WD-40 liquid, solvent, rags and a camera. Filmed disassembly processes will be of great help during assembly.
It is better to repair the car together with an assistant.
In case of such a malfunction, first of all, it is necessary to remove the front wall. This must be done carefully so as not to damage other parts.
Special attention should be paid to on rubber seal loading door and all kinds of plastic latches so as not to accidentally damage them during repairs. To remove the front wall, you need to disconnect the lower bar, dismantle the top cover with the control panel. During operation, you will have to disconnect the wires from the electronic elements, so it is necessary to take measures so as not to confuse them during assembly. Now you can carefully detach the front wall and set it aside.
Next, we begin to work directly with the heating element.
All operations are so simple that a service center is simply not needed in this case. We disconnect the wires from it and measure the resistance. If it is more than the norm or is absent altogether, then you will have to remove the heating element. To do this, you need to unscrew its mount. It is between the contacts.Then we carefully take out the heating element itself and examine it. If there is scale on it, then it must be replaced. Given the specificity of the part, it must be remembered that it not being repaired... The heating element only needs to be replaced with a new one.
Important. Before replacing, carefully examine the marking of the heating element, if it differs from the old one, it is not recommended to put such a heater in the car.
It is very easy to repair this breakdown. To work with the belt, the rear wall of the machine is detached. It's easy to get to him. The only thing that can complicate the job is the counterbalance. If so, then you need to pull it back a little. Before removing the belt, you need to carefully examine it. If such defects as tears, cracks and abrasions are found, the belt must be unconditionally replaced. The old drive belt can be easily removed. To do this, do the following:
We take one thread of the belt in our hand.
We pull it towards ourselves with little effort.
Insert the screwdriver into the groove of the pulley under the belt.
The new belt is installed in the reverse order. As you put it back in place, remember your experience with putting on a sleeping bike chain. For ease of use, it is first put on the engine pulley. When replacing the belt, you must also pay attention to its markings. It is impossible to install a non-original belt.
Important. Rubber dust on the bottom of the machine indicates belt wear.