Good evening. So it happened, I disassemble the engine (d20dtf), at this stage two questions arose: how to remove the bts head, because the intake manifold interferes. and chain labels.
Vladislav, tell me how you can remove the bts head, the intake manifold interferes at this stage. Are there any wisdom? and we need chain labels more.
I will be grateful, the third day I can not find anything efficient.
Vladimir, figured it out? I apologize for the long absence.
We assess the maintainability in points that correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.
DEBUT: April 2010, Busan
BODY: 5-door station wagon (SUV)
ENGINES: petrol, 2.0 l (149 HP); diesel, 2.0 l (149 hp)
GEARBOXES: M6, A6
DRIVE: front, full
PACKAGES: Welcome, Original, Comfort, Elegance, Elegance +, Elegance L, Premium, Red Line
PRICE: 999,000–1,509,990 rubles.
Video (click to play).
The two-liter gasoline and diesel Aktion engines have the same displacement and power. Both are equipped with a maintenance-free timing chain drive. In general, apart from the natural design differences between these two types of engines, their environment is extremely similar.
For a gasoline engine, the usual service interval is provided - 15,000 km or one year. The attachment belt is equipped with an automatic roller tensioner. To loosen it, a turnkey ebb "for 19" is made on the body. There is very little free space for manipulation - the spar interferes. The belt is changed from below. The regulation does not set a replacement date, but servicemen say that it easily survives 100,000 km.
The individual spark plug coils are located under the decorative engine cover. Like most motors, rubber grommets hold it in place; apply a little effort and pull up from the mounts. The coils are fixed with bolts "10", candles - under the usual head "16". The plug replacement interval is 30,000 km.
An off-tank fuel filter is a service-friendly solution. By the way, it is a rarity on modern cars. According to the regulations, the filter is changed every 30,000 km. The original comes assembled with a bracket for attaching to the body. When replacing, it is enough to unscrew the two nuts "12". When using analog filters, we additionally unclench the metal clamp on the bracket, loosening the bolt with a Phillips screwdriver or a “10” head. The fuel lines are secured with convenient quick-release couplings.
Diesel is prescribed a more modest service interval - 10,000 km or one year. The hinged belt has an automatic roller tensioner similar to that of a gasoline engine. But due to the design, it is not always possible to loosen it enough to tighten the new belt.Servicemen use a special mandrel and put on a belt by rotating the crankshaft pulley. The regulation and life of the element is the same as for a gasoline engine belt.
The diesel fuel filter is located under the hood, behind the battery. When replacing it, the servicemen do not touch the battery. There is enough space to remove the body together with its bracket. It is secured with three “10” nuts on the left pillar cup. Remember to disconnect the fuel lines and filter heating connector. Please note: there is a water level sensor at the bottom - do not tear the wiring.
The filter is a cartridge type, so we disassemble the case and change the paper element. To do this, unscrew the two "25" torx. After assembly, we pump the system with a hand pump located on the filter. Turn its plastic cap counterclockwise and it rises on the stem. To fix the pump after pumping, you need to press the cover and turn clockwise accordingly. Sometimes it is impossible to unscrew the lid by hand and a tool is required (a handy is enough). The filter change interval is 30,000 km.
Air filter in the case, located in front of the battery; on cars with a gasoline engine and with a diesel engine, the body is the same. Lift the top cover to replace the element. It is secured with three latches and one captive “10” bolt or Phillips screwdriver. The replacement interval for a car with a gasoline engine is 30,000 km, with a diesel engine - only 10,000 km.
Antifreeze drain plug is located at the bottom of the radiator, on the left. By unscrewing it, you open a channel in the fitting, under which there is a hole in the body amplifier. Through this hole, the liquid drains directly into the container - a good solution. True, you will have to partially remove the plastic boot under the bumper. The regulation for replacing antifreeze on a gasoline car is every 90,000 km, and on a diesel one again more often - 60,000 km.
The situation with the power steering is ambiguous. Regardless of the modification, Actyon can be equipped with both classic hydraulic and electric, built into the steering column. On fresh cars, power steering is often combined with a gasoline engine, and an electric amplifier with a diesel engine. Oil change intervals are not specified. The liquid is renewed partially by pumping it out of the expansion tank, or completely by removing the lines from the rail. Alas, we didn’t foresee connections on usual clamps.
Mechanical boxes for a gasoline engine and for a diesel engine are different in filling, but very similar in appearance, especially in the location of technological holes. The usual drain and filler plugs are provided, access to both is good. The normal oil level is at the edge of the filler hole. The grease change interval is the same - 60,000 km (quite often manufacturers fill in oil for the entire service life).
Automatic machines for a gasoline engine and a diesel engine are completely different units. Both do not have a dipstick for checking the oil, but there are convenient drain and filler plugs. The normal level on a heated box with the engine running is along the edge of the filler hole. In both units, the lubricant is changed every 60,000 km. I advise you not to exceed this mileage - then the machine will live for a long time.
The transmission units, as well as its architecture, are identical for all Acts. Gearboxes for 4 × 4 versions have a slightly different housing - designed for docking with a transfer case. It is also convenient to check the oil in it. And the rear gearbox is easy to maintain. Again, I was surprised by the indecently small oil change interval in both nodes - only 30,000 km. This is usually the case with off-road vehicles, not crossovers.
The battery is difficult to change. It is fixed from below with a metal plate on two “12” bolts, but the engine control unit bracket prevents access to them. On the version with a gasoline engine, the bracket can be painlessly bent to the side, and on a diesel engine, various lines interfere with maneuvers. But you should not unscrew this bracket: later you will be attaching the fastening bolts for a longer time.In this case, the process will be slightly simplified by the magnetic head.
The engine compartment fuse box stands next to the battery. Uncomplicated cover fixings, circuit designations (albeit in English) and a minimum supply of fuses make replacement easy. Salon block - in the left end of the dashboard. To remove its cover, press the latch from the bottom. There are no spare fuses, but the designations are good.
All versions of Aktion have disc brakes at the front and rear. The front two-piston calipers are secured with two “14” bolts. When replacing the pads, it is not very convenient to recess the pistons. (However, all such designs do not indulge in the simplicity of this operation.) The rear calipers, ordinary, are fixed with the same bolts. The pistons are sunk without rotation, using any tool at hand - no special devices are needed. The parking brake mechanism (drum design with separate pads) is integrated into the brake disc. It will take a while to change his pads. The system bleed connections are conveniently located. Change the brake fluid at every second maintenance.
The factory crankcase protection is a plastic boot. This protection is sufficient as the engine and gearbox hang well above the massive subframe. The boot has no technological holes for draining fluids, but it does not pick up dirt and is fastened with convenient “10” bolts.
Turn signal lamps are located in the outer corners of the headlights, in separate wells. They are deeply recessed, and to replace them, the optics will have to be removed, partially dismantling the bumper. The operation is laborious, and it is good that these lamps rarely burn out. Access to the rest of the elements is quite passable. Separate low and high beam lamps are located in individual wells with covers that are fixed by turning. Access to the right headlight is slightly easier as the air filter housing and fuse box on the left get in the way. Lamps are secured by springs with locks. Daytime running lights are diode, replacement - only assembled with a headlight. We change the lamps in the front foglights from below, partially disconnecting the lower fasteners of the wheel arch liners.
When replacing the rear lamps, remove the lights: the hole in the body niche is only for the wiring harness. Fortunately, the attachments are successful and the operation will not take much time and effort. All lamps are fixed by turning. The additional brake light on the trunk lid is LED, it can only be replaced as a complete unit. To replace the lamps in the room lighting, we remove the case. The fastenings are simple, but fragile - we proceed carefully. The license plate frame does not interfere with this.
The editors would like to thank the auto center "Marshal Auto" for their help in preparing the material.
Discussion of the features of operation and maintenance of the SsangYong Actyon 2 (2018-2019) car, a description of common malfunctions and methods of their solution (elimination of breakdowns / repair).
Hello everyone. Haven't come here for a long time. But now the time has come for the next MOT, I decided to ask what new people are writing. As usual, they write about their problems by themselves. My SSangyong New Aktion lane. drive 149 mechanics 2011 onwards at the moment ran only 30t.km. But since the first day of its purchase, there has not been a single day. As it is written in all manuals and service books that short and frequent trips are equated to difficult operating conditions, then my car worked for slaughter all this time. And he doesn't care, everything is in perfect condition. Two years later, not a single serious problem arose. Either I am so lucky, or the car is very good. I serve it myself, I take consumables either to Koreana or Exist, pour Castrol Edge 0w30 turbo diesel oil, take 2 cans of 4 liters each. I fill up fuel at TNK, I have not seen burns for a year, the driving style is usual, recently I didn’t drive too much. Only sometimes on the track it happens to blow out my nostrils, I give him 200, but not for long. It accelerates easily, you don't even notice it yourself. I wish everyone to drive without breakdowns and good luck on the roads.
for Aktion.You were just lucky, you’re just in chocolate, I have Sang Yong New Action all-wheel drive elegance + mileage 80 thousand, during this time I changed the EGR valve, all the nozzles, and the injection pump valve, toe-out. it all cost 70 thousand rubles and it took 2.5 years. I can only guess what will happen next, so good luck buddy.
I read, I look from the first review, I draw conclusions with Aktion, I completely agree. Nyushka, Sanya in the family is called differently front-wheel drive diesel 149 stick November 11 next to 29000t / km I do it myself after zero. I’m 40. Recently I came from the sea coast, running 4000 km about speed, I didn’t think much about speed; After the viburnum, the comp Sanka does not like a little function. Established tires are not a fountain. Diesel was the first in operation, I was afraid, and now it’s even very interesting, my children, and sometimes adults, are delighted with the rear areas of the cabin, for me the trunk in Saneng New Aktion is too small and everything seems to fit. On long roads for the engine and mechanics, I can calmly and submerge. Good luck, nail and rod side.
For Sergei tractor driver! Everything is ok, Sanka took it on Wednesday! The box was replaced, the cost was indicated in the certificate of completion - box 302t.r., installation 6t.r. That's it.
Good afternoon. I will not write much, I have already unsubscribed on the first pages about this car. Sangeng New Aktion was purchased in 2011 in August 175 mares. currently running 70 thousand. All THAT with your own hands. The condition of the new car, for all the time, except for oils, filters + 1 time the pads changed the rear and front, nothing happened, except for one rear stop light). Before NA, there was SY Aktion Sport, I was happy with the brand, so I bought a replacement. I think that there are absolutely no cars that do not break down, and BMWs also break down like Tayoots, but if you watch the car and change everything in time, then everything will be fine. While I am lucky with this brand. I want a new Sport again, I miss the off-road and fishing).
I bought a car in Avalux in the 2012 edition of 2011. Diesel 175hp All THAT on time. A check came on at 16000 km. I tried to burn through, removed the terminal, there was no result. I went to the dealers. We connected the computer, checked, the upper temperature sensor in the particulate filter burned out. We ordered a spare part, a week later we replaced the sensor, reinstalled the program. Now everything is all right. I like the machine. Frisky, economical, I'll go for another year or two.
hello everyone, tell me the front bearing buzzed where to order the hub inexpensively and quickly,
Hello everyone. On replacing the fuel filter with a Ssangyong New Aktion, there are common opinions, to put the original for 2000 rubles. or non-original from 400 rubles. From my own experience, I can only say one thing - take the original in your hands and let's say the Nevsky filter, in my opinion Nevsky looks much more presentable. On my car, this very Nevsky went to the top ten, and in the winter, and everything is fine. Every MOT I change all filters regardless of the recommendations, it is still cheaper than being serviced in the service, and for a car it will not be worse. Replacing the fuel is not a big deal, I can share my experience, there is no talk about other filters at all, any driver himself will catch up with how to change, only for the oil one you need a special key, which can be purchased at any auto parts store. I wish you good luck, everything is in your hands.
Seryoga tractor driver (his review of Sang Yong New Aktion), this is what I found, an "automatic" of Australian origin DSI M78 AT is installed on diesel versions of New Aktion - this is the first, the second - the Chinese buy gearboxes (automatic), I own a car Sang Yong Aktion top.varian since November 2012, at its price a normal car, cons: body painting current found a cant, and so far happy with the machine with caution.
We discuss breakdowns, help, share advice on repairing Ssang Yong Actyon (Ssan-Yong Aktion)
Mileage 69000 km → Requires repair
Gradually, it started to get worse and worse, now to start only with a pusher, moreover, with a half turn. Do not start with a key either hot or cold. Sometimes traction is bad when accelerating, especially uphill and at the same time the check lights up, on a flat road or from a mountain the check goes out. Tell me what is the reason
On the run 65000 km → Eliminated
On the run 77124 km → Eliminated
On the run 46890 km → Eliminated
Mileage 146500 km → Requires repair
Help the POWER light is on. What should I do? and is it possible to ride
On the run 36000 km → Eliminated
On the run 10000 km → Eliminated
The air tank nameplate lit up twice! At OD, apparently they know about this problem, they eliminate it in 15 minutes. It's just that the sensors are located next to the anchorages of the seat belts, and if the seats are inaccurately moved, the contact comes off. They don't show how to fix it. While doing it for free. Once a plastic plug at the connection between the fender and the hood popped out, a characteristic whistle appeared, bought it, replaced it. No more problems. ...
1. Remove the subframe assembly.
Remove the engine and transmission module assembly.
Make sure the unit to be removed does not snag on nearby parts in the engine compartment.
2. Disconnect the front and rear oxygen sensor connectors.
3. Unscrew the five screws (10 mm) and remove the heat shield.
Note:
4. Remove the nuts (12 mm) securing the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold.
Note:
SangYong New Aktion is a compact crossover of the Korean automaker. At home and outside Russia, New Actyon is known as Korando. The serial version of the model was presented in May 2010, and the first copies went on sale in February 2011. New Action for the Russian market was assembled in Vladivostok, at the Sollers - Far East enterprise. Production was carried out according to the SKD method: the body, suspension and power unit assembled with a box were connected together on a conveyor belt.
SsangYong New Actyon was offered with 2-liter power units of two types: gasoline and diesel - 149 hp each. each. Initially, the diesel was offered in two variations - 149 hp. and 175 hp.
The gasoline engine immediately received a number of complaints. Many owners, when starting a cold engine, began to notice rattling, clanking or short "growl". Extraneous sounds were not "born" every time the engine was started and could occur both on new cars and those already in use for some time. There were two reasons: the valve timing regulator and the stretched timing chain. The problem escalates to 100,000 km. You will have to pay about 12,000 rubles for a new regulator, and about 15-25 thousand rubles for a timing drive kit. It is worth noting that many cars have covered more than 100-120 thousand km without these ailments.
Another drawback is the "winter start": the speed floats, and the engine stalls immediately after starting or after a while. The manufacturer tried to solve the problem by correcting the motor control program. But this method did not help everyone. Some auto mechanics suggested that the cause of the trouble lies in the wrong angle of the fuel rail: air leaks and "sweating" near the injectors were noticed. The "folk method" is to bend the ramp and change the sealing rings. According to the owners, who made a similar revision, the engine worked smoother, and the revs stopped floating.
The diesel engine periodically causes inconvenience due to the short resource of the exhaust gas temperature sensor on the turbocharger: "Check" lights up, the thrust drops, the cruise control does not turn on. The sensor resource is 20-40 thousand km, although there are many owners who have traveled more than 50,000 km without problems. Dealers change a defective sensor under warranty. The cost of the sensor from "officials" is about 5-6 thousand rubles, in a spare parts store - about 3-5 thousand rubles.
The rear support of the power unit is also not distinguished by its durability (about 6,000 rubles).Its replacement may be needed after 80-120 thousand km. A little later, the fuel injectors can also fail.
Transmission
Paired with the motors are 6-speed manual and automatic transmissions.
Owners of New Actyon with manual transmissions note the tight engagement of 1st and 2nd gears, accompanied by a knock or crunch. After several tens of thousands of kilometers, the problem usually goes away. Individual owners got rid of the disadvantage by adjusting the shift lever traction.
Diesel versions of New Aktion were equipped with an "automatic" of Australian origin DSI M11 AT. Many people note the appearance of jolts when the box transitions from 1st to 2nd, or after stopping, less often when going 2-3. The manufacturer tried to solve the problem by changing the firmware of the box's ECU, but the update does not help everyone. When changing the oil in the box, an underfilling of 0.5 to 1.5 liters was found. Unfortunately, changing the fluid or bringing its level back to normal did not solve the problem of tremors. And later, some owners closer to 100,000 km had to go to the service to repair the box (more than 100,000 rubles).
The petrol versions were equipped with a Hyundai “automatic”, which was used in the Hyundai ix35. There are no problems with this box.
Some owners make claims against the all-wheel drive system, finding the system to work out of time. But there are no errors in the system, and no real cases of failure have been identified.
The front suspension of the SsangYong New Actyon often starts knocking already in the first ten thousand kilometers. There is no panacea: some specimens were helped by tightening the nuts for securing the front struts, others by tightening the central nut on the shock absorber rod. Replacing the support bearings does not solve the problem. The rest have resigned themselves and drive, not paying attention to the periodic knocking on the suspension.
When examining the chassis with a run of more than 20-40 thousand km, sometimes a rupture of the anther of the outer CV joint of the front axle shaft is found. The cost of a new boot is about 1000 rubles. Front wheel bearings can hum after 100,000 km. They change only in assembly with a hub - from 5,000 rubles.
From time to time, when examining the suspension, the destruction of the rear stabilizer bracket is revealed - it is also the bracket-holder of the rear stabilizer bush. Front shock absorbers (from 4,000 rubles) and thrust bearings (2,000 rubles) may require replacement after 60-100 thousand km.
After 80-120 thousand km, the rear floating silent blocks require updating (from 600 rubles).
Some Actyon owners have noticed a crunch or click when steering. The warranty replacement of the lower part of the steering shaft assembly with the EUR solved the problem. The cost of the unit is about 70-75 thousand rubles.
Body and interior
Body iron and paint quality are traditional for modern cars. The metal in the places of chips blooms in a couple of days. Over time, chips appear on the rear fenders at the top points of the rear lights. The probable cause is excessive mobility of the tailgate under a diagonal load. The chrome trim elements of the body become cloudy after a couple of winters and sometimes begin to swell, especially on the nameplates and the tailgate strip.
Cracking of the upper brake light is often found. Most likely, the lamp overheats, which indirectly confirms the deterioration of the spray of the rear washer nozzle built into the lamp - the water boils. In winter, when the liquid poured into the washer freezes, it squeezes the front washer nozzles out of the seats. The cost of a set of nozzles is about 400 rubles.
Often there are problems with the power windows, more often the rear ones: at first they work every other time, and then they completely stop responding. Authorized services replace the drive electric motors under warranty (about 3 thousand rubles). A possible cause of the malfunction is an insufficient amount of grease in the rollers and pinched guides. As a result, the electric motor cannot withstand a constant heavy load and burns out.
The plastic in the cabin often creaks, especially with the arrival of cold weather. The play of the glove compartment hinge contributes to the accompaniment on irregularities. The steering wheel cover will wear off over time. Unfortunately, not all dealers meet the customer halfway and change the “balding” steering wheel under warranty.
Not without a couple of "glitches" of electrical systems. One of them, turning off the cruise control. See the “Engines” section for the reason - Failure of the exhaust gas temperature sensor on the turbocharger.
Another glitch occurs on ESP equipped Acts. Owners are faced with the flashing of a "garland" from ESP, ABS and a handbrake warning lamp, sometimes "seasoned" with indicators of a malfunction of the EUR and the "Check AWD" all-wheel drive system. As a rule, the display panel is illuminated immediately after ESP training in the winter on ice, more often on an uneven surface. It should be noted that this situation does not occur every time the system is triggered. After turning off the ignition, the "glitch" goes away, and the system continues to work normally. At the moment, dealers do not have a solution to the problem and an explanation of the nature of the origin of the "phenomenon".
Despite a number of identified shortcomings, SsangYong New Actyon still does not belong to the category of unreliable. Some of the problems, unfortunately, are typical for most modern cars. It is gratifying that for the most part malfunctions are not difficult and not expensive to eliminate.
Today it is difficult to find a crossover with a rich set of modifications. One of the few is SsangYong Actyon: the buyer is free to choose not only the motor and gearbox, but also the type of drive. Let's check if such an assortment will turn into a complication of service.
We assess maintainability in points that correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.
SsangYong Actyon
DEBUT: April 2010, Busan
The two-liter gasoline and diesel Aktion engines have the same displacement and power. Both are equipped with a maintenance-free timing chain drive. In general, apart from the natural design differences between these two types of engines, their environment is extremely similar.
For a gasoline engine, the usual service interval is provided - 15,000 km or one year. The attachment belt is equipped with an automatic roller tensioner. To loosen it, a turnkey ebb "for 19" is made on the body. There is very little free space for manipulation - the spar interferes. The belt is changed from below. The regulation does not set a replacement date, but servicemen say that it easily survives 100,000 km.
The individual spark plug coils are located under the decorative engine cover. Like most motors, rubber grommets hold it in place; apply a little effort and pull it up from the mounts. The coils are fixed with bolts "10", candles - under the usual head "16". The plug replacement interval is 30,000 km.
The oil drain plug for a diesel engine (2) is a turnkey "for 14", for an automatic machine (1) - for a hexagon "for 5". Unscrew the plastic housing of the cartridge-type oil filter for a gasoline engine (4) with a head "by 27". To spill as little lubricant as possible, in its center we first unscrew the plug for the hexagon "by 5". Drain plug of the engine (5) - turnkey "14", and all mechanical boxes (3) - turnkey "22". The oil drain plug of the machine for the gasoline engine (6) - under the head "22". In the gasoline engine dispenser, the “” square fill (control) plug is located at the bottom of the front plastic pan. A knob or ratchet from the appropriate set is suitable for it.
An off-tank fuel filter is a service-friendly solution.By the way, it is a rarity on modern cars. According to the regulations, the filter is changed every 30,000 km. The original comes assembled with a bracket for attaching to the body. When replacing, it is enough to unscrew the two nuts "12". When using analog filters, we additionally unclench the metal clamp on the bracket, loosening the bolt with a Phillips screwdriver or a “10” head. The fuel lines are secured with convenient quick-release couplings.
Diesel is prescribed a more modest service interval - 10,000 km or one year. The hinged belt has an automatic roller tensioner similar to that of a gasoline engine. But due to the design, it is not always possible to loosen it enough to tighten the new belt. Servicemen use a special mandrel and put on a belt by rotating the crankshaft pulley. The regulation and life of the element is the same as for a gasoline engine belt.
The diesel fuel filter is located under the hood, behind the battery. When replacing it, the servicemen do not touch the battery. There is enough space to remove the body together with its bracket. It is secured with three “10” nuts on the left pillar cup. Remember to disconnect the fuel lines and filter heating connector. Please note: there is a water level sensor at the bottom - do not tear the wiring.
The drain plug of the transfer case (2) - under the hexagon "10", and the filler (control) (1) - under the wrench "17". Filling (it is also a control) plug of manual transmissions (3) - turnkey "17". Located on the housing behind the left hand drive. The filling (control) plug of the diesel automatic machine (4) with a turnkey "16" is located on the body in front of the left-hand drive. On the rear gearbox drain (6) and filler (control) (5) plugs - under the head "22". The diesel engine has a cartridge-type oil filter hidden under a decorative cover. It is secured with four bull clamps. Unscrew the plastic filter housing with a special cup.
The filter is a cartridge type, so we disassemble the case and change the paper element. To do this, unscrew two "25" torxes. After assembly, we pump the system with a hand pump located on the filter. Turn its plastic cap counterclockwise and it rises on the stem. To fix the pump after pumping, you need to press the cover and turn clockwise accordingly. Sometimes it is impossible to unscrew the lid by hand and a tool is required (a handy is enough). The filter change interval is 30,000 km.
Air filter in the case, located in front of the battery; on cars with a gasoline engine and with a diesel engine, the body is the same. Lift the top cover to replace the element. It is secured with three latches and one captive “10” bolt or Phillips screwdriver. The replacement interval for a car with a gasoline engine is 30,000 km, with a diesel engine - only 10,000 km.
Antifreeze drain plug is located at the bottom of the radiator, on the left. By unscrewing it, you open a channel in the fitting, under which there is a hole in the body amplifier. Through this hole, the liquid drains directly into the container - a good solution. True, you will have to partially remove the plastic boot under the bumper. The regulation for replacing antifreeze on a gasoline car is every 90,000 km, and on a diesel one again more often - 60,000 km.
To remove the ignition coil connector, push the tab on the latch (1). To remove the diesel fuel filter heating connector (5), press the tab on the retainer (3). We dismantle the fuel lines by pulling out the blue stopper (4) of one mount and pressing the red lock (2) of the other.
The situation with the power steering is ambiguous. Regardless of the modification, Actyon can be equipped with both classic hydraulic and electric, built into the steering column. On fresh cars, power steering is often combined with a gasoline engine, and an electric amplifier with a diesel engine. Oil change intervals are not specified. The liquid is renewed partially by pumping it out of the expansion tank, or completely by removing the lines from the rail. Alas, we didn’t foresee connections on usual clamps.
Mechanical boxes for a gasoline engine and for a diesel engine are different in filling, but very similar in appearance, especially in the location of technological holes. The usual drain and filler plugs are provided, access to both is good. The normal oil level is at the edge of the filler hole. The grease change interval is the same - 60,000 km (quite often manufacturers fill in oil for the entire service life).
Automatic machines for a gasoline engine and a diesel engine are completely different units. Both do not have a dipstick for checking the oil, but there are convenient drain and filler plugs. The normal level on a heated box with the engine running is along the edge of the filler hole. In both units, the lubricant is changed every 60,000 km. I advise you not to exceed this mileage - then the machine will live for a long time.
On machines with a manual gearbox, access to the antifreeze drain plug is free. In the case of an automatic machine, the cooling lines of the unit interfere - you will have to act by touch.
This is now rarely seen: the parking brake adjustment mechanism is located under the bottom, in the central tunnel. Access to the nut "12" is good.
The transmission units, as well as its architecture, are identical for all Acts. Gearboxes for 4 × 4 versions have a slightly different housing - designed for docking with a transfer case. It is also convenient to check the oil in it. And the rear gearbox is easy to maintain. Again, I was surprised by the indecently small oil change interval in both nodes - only 30,000 km. This is usually the case with off-road vehicles, not crossovers.
The battery is difficult to change. It is fixed from below with a metal plate on two “12” bolts, but the engine control unit bracket prevents access to them. On the version with a gasoline engine, the bracket can be painlessly bent to the side, and on a diesel engine, various lines interfere with maneuvers. But you should not unscrew this bracket: later you will be attaching the fastening bolts for a longer time. In this case, the process will be slightly simplified by the magnetic head.
The cabin filter assembly with cover is located behind the glove compartment. We take out the element by squeezing the latches on the sides (1). Remove the fuel lines from the petrol filter by pushing the square locks of the clips (2). If the connections are heavily clogged with dirt, first shake them with the "button" pressed from side to side. So there is less risk of breaking something. The filter change interval is not regulated, but it is usually updated with every maintenance.
The engine compartment fuse box stands next to the battery. Uncomplicated cover fixings, circuit designations (albeit in English) and a minimum supply of fuses make replacement easy. Salon block - in the left end of the dashboard. To remove its cover, press the latch from the bottom. There are no spare fuses, but the designations are good.
All versions of Aktion have disc brakes at the front and rear. The front two-piston calipers are secured with two “14” bolts. When replacing the pads, it is not very convenient to recess the pistons. (However, all such designs do not indulge in the simplicity of this operation.) The rear calipers, ordinary, are fixed with the same bolts. The pistons are sunk without rotation, using any tool at hand - no special devices are needed. The parking brake mechanism (drum design with separate pads) is integrated into the brake disc. It will take a while to change his pads. The system bleed connections are conveniently located. Change the brake fluid at every second maintenance.
The rear wiper blade (2) is fixed on a leash (1), like in most cars. To remove the front wiper blade, fold back the lock (3) and pull it off the leash. The glove box is equipped with a shock absorber and two tilt limiters on the sides, and the right one (4) is removable. We first pull the shock absorber rod off the mount (5), slightly shift the glove compartment to the right - and the left stop will disengage itself.
The factory crankcase protection is a plastic boot.This protection is sufficient as the engine and gearbox hang well above the massive subframe. The boot has no technological holes for draining fluids, but it does not pick up dirt and is fastened with convenient “10” bolts.
Turn signal lamps are located in the outer corners of the headlights, in separate wells. They are deeply recessed, and to replace them, the optics will have to be removed, partially dismantling the bumper. The operation is laborious, and it is good that these lamps rarely burn out. Access to the rest of the elements is quite passable. Separate low and high beam lamps are located in individual wells with covers that are fixed by turning. Access to the right headlight is slightly easier as the air filter housing and fuse box on the left get in the way. Lamps are secured by springs with locks. Daytime running lights are diode, replacement - only assembled with a headlight. We change the lamps in the front foglights from below, partially disconnecting the lower fasteners of the wheel arch liners.
We remove the connector from the front fog lamp by pressing on the protrusions of the locks on the sides (1). The light element is fixed by turning. The dipped beam lamp is secured with a double spring with locks on the sides (2) - a convenient solution. Connector without stoppers. It's strange: on the right headlight, which is better accessible, this spring cannot be seen with the naked eye - you need a mirror. The main beam lamp is pressed with a metal spring on the lock (3). Connector without latches. Access and visibility are acceptable and are roughly the same on both headlights.
When replacing the rear lamps, remove the lights: the hole in the body niche is only for the wiring harness. Fortunately, the attachments are successful and the operation will not take much time and effort. All lamps are fixed by turning. The additional brake light on the trunk lid is LED, it can only be replaced as a complete unit. To replace the lamps in the room lighting, we remove the case. The fastenings are simple, but fragile - we proceed carefully. The license plate frame does not interfere with this.
The lantern is fixed with two self-tapping screws (1) and a pair of clips (4) that fit into the guides in the body niche (3). We remove the connector (2) by pressing on the characteristic rectangular protrusion of the retainer. To remove the license plate illumination, move the body from the center of the trunk lid until a gap appears (5). Insert a flat screwdriver and carefully pry the element. On the one hand, it is fixed on a plastic spring lock (6), and on the other, on the protrusions (7). Pulling first the lower part and then the upper one, we take out the lantern.
Video (click to play).
SsangYong Actyon scored 12.2 points - a good indicator. When evaluating, we did not take into account the maintenance work of the all-wheel drive transmission units (we brought them only for reference) - for the sake of an objective comparison with mono-drive competitors. Not without annoying blunders and real difficulties, but in general, the car is easy to maintain.
