Sauna do it yourself repair

Details: DIY sauna repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Good day, dear readers!

The bathhouse is a building where magic hovers! The owners of the steam rooms are truly lucky, because they can enjoy mysterious magic day after day. And so that the enchantment always hovers in the atmosphere of a national health resort, you should take care of it - repair work should be done on time.

If, due to certain circumstances, this process is neglected, you can say goodbye to the bathhouse, since the lack of major repairs is the main reason for the destruction of the entire structure. The process, undoubtedly, requires colossal financial investments, however, the earlier you start repairing the bath, the cheaper the alteration will cost.

In addition, if you do the work yourself, you can save money. In some cases, it is advisable to resort to the help of professionals specializing in the implementation of the repair of a particular facility on a turnkey basis. But do you want to fix the bath yourself? Then let's get down to doing this entertaining process.

In this article, you will learn:

How to understand that the steam room is "unwell"? How do you know when she needs "therapy"? The bath urgently needs to be "treated" if:

the room heats up extremely slowly;
the room cools down very quickly due to heat leakage;
there is a draft in the steam room;
a musty smell is felt in the health resort;
the smell of burning is felt in the "house of purity";
the room is "decorated" with rot, mold, furrows;
condensation often accumulates on the walls;
the roof is leaking.

The presence of problems from the list is a bell that loudly notifies of the need for repair work.

Video (click to play).

The purpose of the event is to identify faults, determine the method for their correction and compile a list of necessary materials and work.

The audit is performed as follows:

inspection of external walls - the condition of the insulating material is checked, the presence or absence of cracks, cracks, gaps, rot, the integrity of the corners and other wall structures;
inspection of the base - the presence or absence of flaws is checked;
inspection of the roof and ceiling - the general condition of heat-, hydro- and heat-insulating raw materials is checked, as well as the presence or absence of defects;
inspection of the stove and chimney - the presence or absence of certain destruction or burnout, as well as the condition of the lining, if any, is checked;
inspection of doors and windows - the presence or absence of distortions, cracks, chips, gaps, cracks, as well as tightness is checked;
inspection of the floor - the general condition of the insulating materials, the presence or absence of fungus, termites, cracks, cracks and other defects, as well as the "well-being" of the finish, if any, is checked;
inspection of internal walls - the presence or absence of cracks, cracks, chips, gaps and other flaws, as well as the condition of the facing material, if any, is checked;
inspection of interior items;
inspection of water supply and drainage systems;
inspection of electrical wiring.

After assessing the condition of all elements of the structure, an estimate is made, materials are purchased, and repairs are made.

Dear friends, just a moment of attention! So that the purchase of raw materials does not “eat up” all the money available in the bins, it is advisable to inspect the bathhouse annually and carry out light cosmetic repairs regularly.

So, having purchased the necessary materials, we proceed directly to the implementation of "therapy".

It is necessary to "treat" the basis if there are the following problems:

roll of flooring;
large cracks in the foundation;
the rapid destruction of walls.

The "therapy" of the foundation consists of the following stages:

groundwater is diverted from the walls of the steam room with the help of a high-quality blind area, storm sewer and, of course, a drainage system;
the internal space is freed from all interior items;
the structure rises - first one corner rises, and then the opposite, then the other, after which the opposite (this is done with the help of jacks and beams);
the working area under the structure is cleared;
formwork is installed;
a frame is made of reinforcement;
concrete solution is poured into the formwork (to save a little, you can put stones in the formwork);
a technical pause is made (so that the concrete hardens);
the base is covered with waterproofing made using bituminous compounds;
the formwork is removed after 3-4 weeks;
the bathhouse is lowered onto a brand new foundation.

One more moment of attention! Raise and lower the steam room very slowly and carefully so as not to damage the structure. If all the stages are performed correctly, your bathhouse will be able to demonstrate its beauty on a brand new, impeccably erected "pedestal"!

Quite a frequent occurrence in wooden steam rooms - the lower logs or beams rot. There is little pleasant, but nothing fatal. You can replace the lower rims. How it's done? The work is done in three ways.

The first replacement method is to dismantle the walls. This method allows not only to replace the lower rims, but also to repair those areas that have also undergone the decay process. The work is carried out in this way: the wall is disassembled, the beams are numbered, and then assembled again. The method is incredibly complex and costly, as it is comparable to the construction of new walls.

The second method is to raise the steam room and then replace the lower rims. This method is extremely popular, but it is quite difficult to do the work on your own. The process looks like this: with the help of a jack, the first corner of the bath is lifted, then the second, then the third, and then the fourth. Bars are placed under each of them, rotten crowns are removed, new ones are installed. If there is no experience, it is advisable to "order" specialists. The cost of replacing crowns is low.

The third method is spot repair. This method is the simplest one. Its essence is that rotten areas are cut out and removed, and new ones are installed. However, a number of new joints appear in the structure, which significantly reduces its strength.

Dear friends, just a moment of attention! Masters advise using the first method - dismantling the walls and the second method - raising the steam room.

A sign of floor rotting is an unpleasant smell from the underground space. It is difficult to visually identify spoiled raw materials, as the wood very often looks healthy. However, you can take an awl and pierce the board. It pierces very easily if it is rotten. In addition, you can hit the board with a hammer - if the sound is dull, then the floor is rotten.

If the board is damaged, you should immediately start replacing the floor. This process looks like this:

the old floor is dismantled;
the rough floor is being set up;
insulating raw materials are placed between the lags;
the insulation is closed with a waterproofing material;
the counter rail is attached to the lags;
a new floorboard is laid.

In addition, spot repairs can be made. The process consists of the following stages:

pieces of spoiled wood are cut;
new boards are inserted;
“healthy” wood is securely fixed to the logs;
new boards are aligned with a planer.

In principle, the work is not difficult, but it requires a serious attitude.

If heat escapes from the bathhouse through cracks, they must be eliminated immediately. For this, natural material is used - moss, tow, flax, jute. How? Easy, but time consuming. The slots are caulked tightly with the selected material.

If the audit showed that the heat leak from the steam room is due to the insulation, which eventually became unusable, it is necessary to replace it. The process consists of the following steps:

old material is removed from the walls;
bars are stuffed in an upright position on log walls;
the vapor barrier membrane is fixed with a stapler;
thermal insulation is laid in the form of plates between the cells of the crate;
from the outside, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing membrane, and externally - by a cladding material.

Just a moment of attention, friends! If the insulation is carried out outside, then ventilated hinged panels can play the role of cladding. In the case when the insulation is carried out inside, the lining of fragrant rocks most often acts as a cladding.

Did the inspection show that the false ceiling is in urgent need of repair? We are proceeding with the reconstruction. The process consists of the following stages:

the old coating is removed - the thermal insulation is dismantled from the attic side;
the first board is removed (a sheet of plywood);
subsequent boards (plywood sheets) are removed from the inside, otherwise you can fall and be injured;
the beams are inspected - if they are rotten, they are replaced;
insulation is carried out - the heat-insulating raw material is laid on a vapor barrier material, then covered with a waterproofing film and boards (attic flooring), which are nailed to the beams.

This completes the ceiling repair.

When renovating a roof, be very careful.

Slate. Cracks in the slate sheet are sealed with a special mixture consisting of one part cement, three parts asbestos, one part water and one part glue. The process looks like this: the working area is cleaned from contamination, then it is primed, after which the cracks are closed - mastic is applied in layers (total thickness 2 mm).
Metal. The process of sealing flaws consists of the following stages: tow is soaked in hot bitumen, inserted into fistulas and filled with mastic. More serious defects are repaired with patches: the metal around the damage is treated with bitumen (hot, of course), then roofing material is put (several layers) and mastic is applied.
Soft roof. The repair is carried out as follows: the damaged fragment is removed, the surface is cleaned, the nails are removed (if any), a new shingle is lubricated with special glue, installed, fixed, and a sealant is applied to the joints.

As you can see, there is nothing supernatural.

When repairing the main structural elements, do not forget about secondary details. Although, I think, it is a sin to call them that, since their presence plays an important role.

Electrical wiring. The old aluminum wire must be replaced with a wire with copper conductors and good non-combustible insulation, for example VVG_ng or NYM.
Windows and doors. Old canvases should be replaced with new ones. In addition, they need to be insulated.
Furniture. Interior items that are out of order must be thrown away so as not to be injured during their use, and buy new ones. In addition, furniture can be made from wood with your own hands. But without fail, it must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants in order to protect it from the harmful effects of mold and fire.
Bake. You should not save on such important equipment, since not only comfort, but also health depends on its quality.
Drainage system. Pipes should be cleaned or replaced.

From the above, the following conclusion suggests itself: do not delay the repair, because at best you will have to pay a big sum for this event, and at worst - demolish the bathhouse completely.

The steam room, flaunting in the country, is a real wizard, giving heavenly pleasure! In view of this, dear friends, do not forget to take care of a structure that is capable of miracles.

Anecdote in the subject: Repair is when you wipe your feet not when you enter the apartment, but when you leave it.

Not expensive, but high-quality repairs to your bathhouse! Hope to see you soon in the following articles. Till!

Quote of wisdom: Good morning is not the time of day, this is a state of mind (Osho).

The bathhouse is not only useful from a functional point of view - it is a real "temple of relaxation"! A private bath turns any evening into a real holiday, as soon as it is flooded and thoroughly heated. Repairing a bath is a completely different matter, because this is a task that requires certain knowledge and adherence to a number of rules. However, there is nothing super complicated here - in this article we will reveal the main nuances of repairing a bath with our own hands!The Russian bath is usually built as a stand-alone building. Therefore, the repair of a Russian bath is both internal and external work. External repair work is practically no different from the repair of an ordinary country house or cottage. If you have a bathhouse made of logs, that is, a blockhouse, or a bar - it can get wet from exposure to moisture, and this can lead to rotting, the appearance of mold or mildew. Therefore, in the winter season and in bad weather, it is better not to cover the roof, and in general it is not reasonable to repair the log house in cold weather or rain.Inside the bath, the repair of the steam room and the repair of other premises are significantly different. Ordinary premises - a dressing room, a rest room (if any) - are being renovated in the same way as in your house. But the steam room is a room that requires special attention. As we said, it is best to use natural building materials here. But that's not all.The power supply and lighting in the steam room are best made from special materials. High-quality copper wiring, high-quality lamp, good electrical insulation from moisture. When buying materials, it is better to consult with the seller about the permissibility of their use for repairing electrics in a bath.The floors in the bath require special attention. After all, their purpose, in addition to directly direct, is to provide drainage and ventilation. Yes, it is through the floor that fresh air is supplied to the steam room. This is especially true for a Russian bath with wooden floors. In case of repairing the floor in such a bath, it is extremely important to ensure the gaps between the floorboards. Their width is usually up to 1 cm. But, if the bathhouse worked perfectly before the repair, it is better to observe the gaps that were originally.
When renovating an old bathhouse, the foundation very often needs to be repaired. Repair of the bathhouse foundation, on the one hand, is quite simple. After all, a bathhouse is rarely built from heavy materials, and therefore the strength requirements for the foundation are not so high. However, in order not to block the access of air to the steam room through the floor, it is necessary to provide either ventilation holes in the foundation, or not to make the foundation solid, but to use piles or a columnar structure. You also need to understand that the drainage from the log house of the bathhouse is, in fact, a direct drain through the floor onto a special cushion of sand, gravel and expanded clay under the steam room. As a result, the foundation is exposed to high humidity from the inside. Therefore, when repairing the foundation of a bath, choose moisture-resistant materials and pay special attention to its moisture insulation.Unlike a Russian bath, a sauna (Finnish bath) or hamam (Turkish bath) is most often equipped inside a house or cottage, for example, in a basement. It has its own peculiarities of the device of a steam room, drainage system, and therefore, when repairing a bath inside a house, there are rules.
The hamam and sauna, unlike the Russian bath, have sealed floors and are equipped with a drainage system. Thus, when repairing a steam room in a sauna or hammam, you need to provide a high-quality drainage system. An important caveat - be sure to use a shut-off valve, which will exclude the ingress of unpleasant odors from the sewer into the steam room.

Read also: DIY cast iron bath repair

Another nuance is the presence of electrical appliances. In addition to electrics for lighting, these are, of course, electrical appliances for heating the steam room. In a sauna, this can be a special electric oven and heating elements in the floor. In the hamam, as a rule, heating is provided by steam, which circulates through special pipes installed in the floors and walls. In both cases, an electric oven is used for heating. So, when repairing an electrician in a bath, it is important to use moisture and heat-resistant equipment specially designed for this purpose.The main difficulties in the repair of a bath are associated with the functional purpose of its elements. Materials are exposed to high humidity and heating here.So the steam room, probably the main element of the bath, is exposed to high temperatures during operation. Plus, this is where you'll enjoy the heat and steam. Therefore, no matter what type of bath you have - wooden, Russian, Turkish, Finnish, etc., the repair of the bath inside excludes the use of building materials that cannot withstand high temperatures or emit harmful or unpleasant-smelling fumes when heated. It is better not to use here: polyurethane foam, sealants, wood impregnations, synthetic paints and adhesives, plastics and plastics, polystyrene, polyethylene. As it turned out not so long ago, asbestos is also harmful when heated, so it is better not to use it either.What to do, what materials to use? As natural as possible. Wood instead of plastic. Natural tow instead of synthetic seals. Clay, cement, glass, ceramics, metal, wood are acceptable. Glass wool can be used as insulation. Of course, the cost of repairing a bathhouse due to the use of such materials will be slightly higher, but on the other hand, safety and maximum pleasure from using the steam room will be ensured!

Electric oven in a home sauna

Before starting any construction activities, you need to plan everything thoroughly and, first of all, choose a place for arranging a sauna at home.

The best option is a bathroom, if, of course, its size allows you to place a cabin. The bathroom already has running water, sewerage, ventilation and, as a rule, a tiled floor.

In general, almost any place is suitable for the construction of a home sauna. The main thing is that the room has the opportunity to equip additional ventilation.

Each visitor to the steam room must be allocated at least 1 m2 of free space. Consider this point when choosing a place to place a sauna at home.

Assembling the finished infrared sauna

Setting up a sauna at home is a relatively simple, but extremely important undertaking. Follow each step of the guide step by step and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of your own steam room.

Traditional plank flooring is not the best solution for a home sauna. If you still prefer wood, do not, under any circumstances, cover it with paints and varnishes.

For a sauna floor at home, a warm floor with a finished tile is best suited. To install the floor, it is enough to get rid of the old floor covering (if any) at the place where the sauna cabin is being erected, lay the elements of the warm floor, fill in the screed, let it dry and lay the tiles to your taste.

There are no special requirements for floor tiles. All floor care comes down to regular cleaning and disinfection.

Proceed with the structure of the frame. Before starting to install the slats, it is necessary to vaporize the walls. If the walls of a house or apartment are made of bricks, lay glassine on them. In the case of walls made of other materials, glassine can be omitted.

Glassine will act as a vapor barrier material. Instead, you can use bitumen paper - the properties of the materials are similar.

The vapor barrier is attached to the wall with an overlap of 15-20 cm and is fixed with rails and nails or a construction stapler and staples.

After installing the vapor barrier, proceed with the construction of a wooden frame from bars. It is most convenient to use a timber with a section of 5x5 cm. Fasten it to the floor and walls. The number of uprights depends on the size of your future bath. Racks must be present in the corners of the future cab. Choose the step between the supports according to the width of the insulation. It is better that the distance between the bars is a couple of centimeters less than the width of the heat-insulating plates - this way the insulation will fit as tightly as possible.

Fit the ceiling frame. To do this, it is enough to fix the crossbars along the top of the vertical posts with a step according to the size of the heat-insulating material.

At the same stage, prepare holes in the frame for mounting ventilation and power supply elements. Lay the so-called. dry pipe. It needs to be taken inside the future cabin along its perimeter.

Also, pipes can be laid not inside the sauna, but above its ceiling. Typically, the height of the cabin ceiling does not exceed 210 cm, so there will be enough space for wires and pipes even in a simple apartment.

It is strongly recommended to bring 3-4 pipes inside the sauna with simple sprinklers and water in case of fire. Also place a fire damper inside the ventilation duct. It will not allow hot air from the steam room to go into the rest of the house or apartment.

Place the insulation in the cells of the vertical frame. For thermal insulation of a home sauna, it is most convenient to use basalt-based mineral wool. This material is characterized by high operational and thermal insulation properties.

Thanks to the special foil, the internal properties of the sauna will be significantly improved. The foil will keep as much of the heat in the room as possible. The sauna will warm up faster and retain the generated heat for longer.

Fasten the foil to the frame with the mirror side inside the steam room. It is better to insulate the ceiling a little later, after arranging ventilation. Use aluminized tape or simple pushpins to fix the material.

Attach horizontal bars with a cross section of 3x4 cm in increments of about 40 cm to the vertical posts. These bars must be set in strict accordance with the building level.

At the same stage, install transverse frames made of 3x6 cm timber for further installation of benches. Thanks to the cross bars, the weight of the benches will be transferred to the sauna frame and not to the lining.

For cladding the ceiling and walls of a home sauna, it is best to use clapboard.Before starting the finishing work, install a supply ventilation valve in the ceiling above the location of the sauna heater. Attach the previously mentioned foil to the ceiling, leaving the ventilation open.

If you are building a suspended ceiling, then first you need to fix the sheathing, and only after that lay the insulation.

Most often, linden, alder and pine lining is used for arranging home saunas. Linden wood has a wonderful smell and attractive appearance. Among the additional advantages of the material, it is necessary to note its healing properties and beneficial effects on the human body.

Alder has long been used for the construction and decoration of various wooden structures. It has low thermal conductivity and a wide variety of shades. Alder is pleasant to the touch and does not burn the skin. Among the disadvantages of alder, it is necessary to highlight softness, as well as a tendency to deformation, damage and dirt.

Pine is traditionally used for cladding saunas all over the world. Wood smells good and has a beneficial effect on human health.

In general, when choosing a cladding material, be guided by your preferences, available budget and features of your specific situation.

The optimum ceiling height in a conventional home sauna is up to 210 cm. "Pipe effect", due to which draft increases and drafts appear.

Install the upper benches as high as possible - about 100-110 cm from the ceiling. Place the lower bench at a sauna ceiling height of 210 cm at a height of 65 cm.For more convenience, place a step under the lower bench at a height of about 25 cm.

The door, as already noted, is best installed glass. With such a door, visitors to the steam room will feel more comfortable in a closed room. It is desirable that the glass is tinted.

Do not install any "serious" latches or locks on the door. The maximum allowed is simple magnetic or roller latches.

Finally, install the sauna heater and decorative fittings. It is better not to build a wood-burning stove, especially when it comes to a sauna in an apartment - such a unit will create very high floor loads.

There will be no problems with the installation of the electric heater. The device comes with special mounting screws. You just have to fix the heater on the wall, stepping back about 20 cm from the floor surface. Build a small fence around the stove with scraps of wood. The fence can be of any shape. The main requirement is that the wood should be no closer than 50 mm to the heating element and not rise more than 50 mm above the heating elements.

Install an outlet, switch and lights. Route the wiring through a metal sleeve.

Sand the benches and wash them thoroughly with clean water and a damp sponge.

Place stones between heating elements with minimal gaps. Whenever possible, use round, smooth elements without defects. Place large stones at the bottom, small ones on top.

Wash the stones thoroughly before placing them on the heater. Re-wash the stones every 3-6 months and check their integrity. Remove damaged elements and replace them with new ones.

For a home sauna, the following stones are usually used:

diabase. The most popular and budget option. Supplied chipped. Diabase withstands on average about 250-300 heating cycles with subsequent cooling;

Thus, there is nothing difficult in arranging a sauna at home with your own hands. Follow the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

A visit to the sauna is considered a beneficial procedure, but city dwellers often do not have enough time to regularly visit the steam room. However, sauna lovers have the option of installing it right in their apartment.Such a sauna can appear in urban housing in the form of a factory booth, or it can be created by hand.

By installing a sauna at home, you can relax in comfort in your own apartment. Moreover, for this, additional sewage and pipes are not required, because the booth is already connected to the existing highway.

Using a home sauna has a positive effect on the health of the respiratory tract and cardiovascular system. Also, these procedures help to cleanse from toxins and contribute to skin rejuvenation. A visit to the sauna at home after exercise will help you rejuvenate. In addition, relaxing in the sauna will help in overcoming stress.

Not so long ago, it was impossible to install a sauna in an apartment, but now, despite the need to obtain permission, the idea of installing a sauna at home is not unrealistic.

To design a sauna in a city apartment, you will have to adhere to the following conditions:

heating in a home sauna is permissible only from a special oven manufactured at the factory. In such a furnace, shutdown is provided for continuous 8-hour operation and temperatures above +130 degrees;
to spray water, a deluge or perforated pipe is installed in the sauna. The connection is made to the water supply system inside the apartment, outside the sauna;
the area of the home steam room should be up to 24 m2;
wood must be treated with a special impregnation against fire and decay;
the sauna must not be placed in a residential area.

To agree on a sauna project in an apartment, you need to visit some authorities - SES, HOA, Housing Inspectorate, Fire Service and others. The list of services and institutions in which you need to obtain permission to install a sauna may differ in different regions, so it is better to check it in your area of residence.

Since the sauna is classified as a fire hazardous structure, there are some requirements for its installation. The main requirement relates to the choice of a heater. At home, it is allowed to use only an infrared or electric heater, and gas and solid fuel equipment is prohibited. Please note that the electrical wiring in the house must be powerful enough, so you need to know its condition in advance.

When installing the sauna yourself in the steam room, you need to install a sensor that automatically turns off the heating element when a certain temperature is reached. We also need one more sensor, designed to give a signal to the Ministry of Emergencies when the sauna catches fire.

The second requirement for a home sauna is to ensure the removal of moisture from the room through a corrugated pipe. Good ventilation will prevent the formation of condensation on the walls of the sauna and the development of mold. Also, the room should have good vapor and waterproofing.

A sauna for installation in an apartment consists of parts such as a special stove and a cabin. The choice of the power of the stove will be influenced by the area of the future steam room. For each 1 m3 of the room, 0.6 kW of power is calculated. By purchasing a more powerful device, you will spend more electricity (and this is an extra cost), and if the stove is with insufficient power, you will have to wait too long for the sauna to heat up