In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ball joints from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
I already wrote about the device of the ball joint, you can read here ... In that article, I touched on the problem of repair, but many of my readers began to write - is it possible to restore it yourself. At first I thought that this was not the right economy, but after understanding the problem, it turns out that repairing is sometimes much more profitable. Once again I will emphasize much! The thing is that the supports at the moment are installed in the levers and cannot be removed! This is not the same structure as it was before on our VAZ ...
THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE
That is, the ball joint was previously removed in 95% of cases, it was physically unscrewed from the suspension arm (our VAZs were called "mugs"), and in many foreign cars of the 90s - 2000s they were often removable. Nowadays many manufacturers weld the supports into the lever or into the steering rack. They are not removable. Thus, you not only need to change the "ball" but also completely the lever! And this can be very expensive in terms of money. For example, on Mitsubishi, the cost of one can go up to 20 - 25,000 rubles for the original, for BMW - up to 50,000! Therefore, willingly or not, the question of restoration arises. Moreover, this can be done sometimes with your own hands.
If you did not go to the link above and read it, I will remind you a little about the structure here. You need to understand that the ball joint serves for a movable joint that can rotate, that is, movement in several planes at once. In cars, it is used mainly in the front suspension, for turning the front wheels.
There is a cylindrical body.
A polymer liner that is immersed in it.
Metal finger or "ball" or rod, there are many names. It has a spherical element on one side and a threaded rod on the other.
The boot protects the structure from the ingress of dust and dirt.
Clamping spring or even the bottom. By the way, sometimes it is not there, if the support is not collapsible.
Video (click to play).
This is how it is fluently, but we need it in order to understand how to restore.
The design of the ball joint is strong enough, it can walk for thousands of kilometers. However, the polymer liner will wear out over time. This is the only weak point. It is he who takes on the main load from uneven roads.
The situation is aggravated by a torn anther, when it breaks - dirt, dust, sand, etc. enter inside. All this starts to work like "sandpaper", a metal ball (finger), begins to erase the polymer insert.
That is, only two main parts are exposed to wear - a polymer insert and a rubber (silicone) boot - these are the ones that need to be restored.
I would like to note that in very neglected moments, when the insert has worn down to the ground, the "metal ball" itself suffers, because it starts rubbing against the metal of the walls of the case. But this is a completely neglected case.
There are several ways to rebuild or repair a ball joint. If the "boot" changes easily enough, just throw it away and put a new one. But with the polymer composition, everything is not so simple. There are only two main ways to repair:
Physical repair, usually applied to a collapsible support. When you disassemble the "ball" and change the polymer filling.
Non-separable support repair. Here the principle is different, liquid polymers are used, which are pumped into the housing.
Now in more detail about each method.
Physical repair
This is the easiest way - when the ball joint is disassembled. The bottom of it twists out, we take out the worn out polymer insert and replace it.Previously, such repairs were on many cars, including those sold for our rear-wheel drive VAZs. Repair kits were also sold, which could be purchased and changed.
Therefore, the supports went for a very long time, although the "inserts" were changed quite often. A little later, such spherical balls were no longer produced, if it was not profitable, if it was a “conspiracy of manufacturers”. Now, in 95% of cases, they are non-separable.
Repair of a non-separable ball joint
Not only can you not disassemble them, but sometimes you will not be able to remove them from the lever! It's just absurd - in order to change the "ball", we completely change the lever! But there can be two of them in the lever.
First physically cut off the bottom - say with a grinder, pick up the insert and weld the bottom. The method is not one of the best, but it is possible. Personally, I do not recommend it to you.
Second pouring a liquid polymer inside under pressure, that is, non-separable recovery. Fluoroplastic is usually used. It is worth telling in more detail.
This can be done, but difficult. You will need special equipment and polymer (fluoroplastic). We simply drill a ball hole in the bottom of this principle, then cut the threads so that we can screw on a special metal "receiver".
This thread is twisted "tube - receiver" from a special press (extruder), which feeds molten fluoroplastic under pressure. It should be noted that it melts at temperatures of 170 - 200 degrees Celsius.
Then we heat the tube, usually the press itself with the "liquid mass". Inside the spherical fluoroplastic it also melts + mixes with the mass that enters through the tube, the process takes place under a pressure of 2 atmospheres.
After filling, the tube is disconnected, the press with the polymer is removed. The polymer hardens and forms a monolith, which envelops the "ball"; all knocks and vibrations pass - after all, the broken place is filled with polymer. A special valve or "grease" is screwed into the hole that was drilled.
After such a repair, the ball joint can walk for a very long time, sometimes even no less than a new one. Watch a detailed video.
VIDEO
However, it is worth noting that if the boot is broken and a lot of any dirt has got into the "ball", then you should first clean it, otherwise the wear will be very large. The scrubbing should be up to the mirror.
VIDEO
That's all. In conclusion, I would like to say that if there is an opportunity to change and put a new original support, it is better to do it. After all, a new one, I emphasize ORIGINAL (not China), will always be better than a restored one. It will be enough for you for many thousands of kilometers.
Read our site, sincerely your AUTOBLOGGER.
DIY ball joint repair
1. How the ball joint works
2. What is the ball joint for?
3. Malfunction of the ball joint
4. Repair of the ball joint
Many motorists have heard about the device of the ball joint. Nevertheless, no one has heard of the principle of its action, purpose, and even more so diagnostics. That is why it is necessary to disclose several important and significant aspects that will help the motorist deal with this device.
The ball joint is a very important vehicle component that forms part of the suspension structure. It consists of a metal finger and has a spherical end on one side, and on the other - a thread. In addition, it includes a housing that is filled with polymer and contains a ball-shaped socket. Through its ball-shaped end, the finger will be inserted directly into the housing socket without any gaps, which will maximally exclude all the slightest backlashes. However, the finger will be able to move in different planes. The finger-body connection will be fitted with a rubber boot, which is designed to prevent dirt and dust from entering the inside of this assembly.
Through the threaded end, the ball joint will be inserted directly into the desired holes in the other part of the suspension - the lever, and by means of a nut it will be attached to it. It is due to the movement of the spherical end in the housing nest that the intermobility of these elements will be ensured. It should also be noted that there are ball joints that do not have a threaded connection.
The ball joint device is located in the steering knuckle system, which is the part of the front suspension of the vehicle to which the wheel is attached. The ball joint itself will provide the mobility of the steering knuckle, which is necessary to make the car turns with direct action on the steering mechanism. It is because of this that the use of a ball joint device in such nodes is reasonable and justified. In the design of the front multi-link suspension, there are upper and lower ball joints - on each side of the vehicle; but there may be six or eight.
The most obvious signs by which a malfunction of the ball joint can be determined is the extraneous sound that occurs in the suspension of the car when the car is directly moving along uneven road surfaces. This sound can be called "chomping", which will be characteristic of the impact of the metal part of the structure on the plastic.
In winter periods and in frosty weather, you can also hear a creak when the vehicle is moving, which will be emitted by a ball joint device. This kind of negative phenomenon is possible in the case of a torn protective dust cover. This is due to the fact that through its cracks in the rubber moisture will get inside the ball joint itself, which will contribute to the freezing of the lubricant.
In its essence and design, the ball joint is durable, which is why it is not afraid of time and roads. However, the main deciding factor for the performance of this unit lies in the water and mud. It is due to the penetration of these two elements into the support system that we can talk about potential damage to the protective boot. During direct movement, it is almost impossible to damage it due to its location.
In most cases, small cracks appear on the boot itself, which appear over time or under the influence of weather conditions. Also, the human factor should not be excluded, since an accidental rupture with a tool that is used to repair the front suspension can lead to problematic consequences.
It is important to note that if the motorist does not detect the rupture of such a part as the boot in time, or does not predetermine the presence of cracks from aging and abrasion of rubber and does not replace it, then this will not be able to affect the direct operation of the ball joint. But in the event that there is a long ride with a damaged boot, this will allow dirt and water to get directly into the support, which will lead to excessive abrasive friction against the polymer filler of the ball-shaped tip, as a result of which cavities are formed both on the polymer and on the surface.
In turn, this will contribute to the occurrence of backlash, which is a rather dangerous phenomenon and requires the adoption of sudden measures in the repair or replacement of the ball joint device. If you neglect all of the above actions, the motorist can get very negative consequences that can lead to an accident on the road.
The best place where you can calmly, reliably and professionally identify all the malfunctions of the ball joint is a car service. Nevertheless, it will be possible to check the front suspension, provided that there is a personal garage, as well as a viewing hole (lift) and sufficient lighting.
Checking the support will consist in revealing the integrity of the backlash and the boot for rupture. In the event that there is no backlash with a damaged boot, it will be necessary to replace only one boot. In the event that there is also a backlash, it is necessary to make a total replacement of the ball joint at the time of its detection. In this state, there can be no question of any movement of such a vehicle, since it is very dangerous.
In order to understand what exactly happens when the ball joint breaks, it is important to recall its main function, which lies in the connection of the upper or lower suspension arm with the steering knuckle. With a direct breakage, the connection will be lost, as a result of which the steering knuckle will have only one point of support, after which it becomes possible to move only in several planes, which will make driving the vehicle almost impossible. This will cause the wheel to twist outward, causing inevitable damage to the fender and door.
Very often, the pull-out itself occurs when the wheel hits a large hole, provided that the car is moving at high speed. In such a situation, only the experience and intuition of the motorist will save from undesirable consequences, since an inverted wheel will not allow driving a vehicle in a normal state. Many motorists simply neglect the repair of the ball joint and believe that it is better to replace the part. Nevertheless, a highly qualified master, with the necessary equipment, materials and equipment, will be able to independently restore a unit that has lost its performance. Repair costs will be an order of magnitude less than replacement.
A ball joint device that has undergone repair will be considered more wear-resistant, accordingly, its resource will be greater than that of a new one. This means that the repair will be much cheaper than the total replacement of the support. Of course, the very procedure for restoring the support will not be particularly pleasant, since it will require certain skills and care, equipment and knowledge. Nevertheless, in the presence of these elements, you can safely try to repair such devices.
The ball joints bear the weight of the front of the vehicle, including the weight of the engine. At the same time, when driving, they receive constant blows from the wheels in any direction. No matter what durable material these parts are made of, their service life is limited. It is good that in many cases, do-it-yourself restoration is possible.
Of course not, this is directly related to security.
When the ball joint is dismembered, the wheel breaks and its rotation is blocked. The car immediately leaves the trajectory. The consequences can be fatal. Weak balls are a real safety hazard!
Moving with a backlash in the ball joint leads to a violation of control. At the right moment, you may not have time to make the maneuver.
At the first sign of wear on these components, it is necessary to undergo a suspension diagnosis.
Thus, having determined the symptoms of a malfunction, conclusions are drawn about the maintainability of the part. After identifying critical wear, the ball balls must be replaced. However, their cost is quite high, especially if they are integral with the suspension arm. Therefore, many car enthusiasts prefer to make repairs.
It's important to know! After repair, the ball is not restored to the state of a new part. The service life will be shorter. But you don't have to worry about operational safety.
There are many recovery methods. The repair method using the sjr technology is quite popular, when molten polymer is pumped into the cavity between the cage and the ball.
We will consider repairs with disassembly of this unit.
To understand the mechanism of operation of the support, look at the diagram:
Often the problem arises from damage to the boot, and not the metal itself
Only the polymer liner is subject to wear. It is during its abrasion that backlash appears. If you continue to ride with a loose ball joint, the top of the cylinder also breaks, and then the finger can fly out of the cage.
The inserts are sold at auto dealerships as consumables. If your ball joint is collapsible, you can easily pull out the bottom and replace the polymer inside the product.
Consumables can be sold in the store at a more affordable price than buying a new part
First of all, the assembly must be removed correctly. The finger sticks so strongly to the suspension arm that it is practically one piece with it. Previously, preferably a day before, the compound is abundantly treated with a penetrating liquid. The composition used is WD-40 or regular kerosene. There are two ways to remove your finger from the lug:
Press out with a ball joint puller. This is the most painless and reliable method, but the puller is not always at hand. There are no universal fixtures, but the fastening structures of the ball joint are different. Ball joint puller example
The second method is more universal, but there is a risk of damaging the thread on the support pin. On the tip of the ball, it is necessary to screw a nut made of solid steel (hardness 9.8) and knock the ball out of the lug with precise short blows of a hammer.
Important! You can't hit your finger directly. You will rivet the threaded connection, and it will be impossible to screw on the working fastening nut.
So, the ball joint is in your hands. The outer cylinder (cage) is a monolithic structure. It is impossible to remove your finger.
Ball joint options from different car models
The blank part of the support body is removable. In this case, you can repeatedly change the plastic liners, each time restoring the support's performance. The removable bottom allows for routine inspection without removing the ball joint from the suspension.
A hole the size of a ball of a finger is drilled in the bottom (with a small gap, of course). Drilled out - conditionally said. A milling machine is required. Do not be afraid to damage the plastic liner when boring, you will still be changing it. A thread is cut inside. This is a rather complicated procedure due to its large diameter. But in any tool shop you will be able to do such work for a nominal fee. Entrust the work to professionals, if you are not yourself
Then a threaded plug is made for this hole, repeating the shape of the standard bottom.
Tip: Use two ball joints for precise manufacturing of the plug. With one, cut the bottom off with a grinder and use it as a sample form.
On the manufactured bottom, you must cut the slots for the key, otherwise it will be impossible to firmly tighten the repair unit. Replace on a clean surface, otherwise the meaning of the work is lost
Now, for repairs, it will be enough to unscrew the plug, remove the finger (checking its geometry) and replace the plastic inserts.
Important! It is necessary to ensure that the thread is locked, otherwise the bottom may unscrew during operation.
The principle is the same as in the first case - to make a replaceable bottom. Only the execution is different. If the bottom of the support is too thin to make a full threaded connection, a repair cup must be made. It is turned on a lathe from a steel circle of a suitable diameter. In the bottom of the glass, the same hole is machined and a thread is cut. And finally, a removable support base is made.
Then the bottom of the cylinder is cut from the ball bearing using a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. A repair glass is welded in its place. The method is more time consuming, but it does not allow the finger to heat up during the dismantling process.
Further operation according to the same scheme: when a backlash appears, unscrew the repair plug, remove the finger, change the plastic inserts.
It is worth noting that manufacturers of spare parts produce many options for repair ball joints. Both replaceable inserts and new pins are sold for these collapsible housings. However, in our article we are considering just self-production.
The fastest way to restore the ball joint. The rear (support) part of the cylinder is simply cut off. The method does not matter - you can use a hacksaw, you can use a grinder, there will still be a temperature effect afterwards.
Having gained access to the cylinder cavity, the polymer liners can be changed.
Important! Be sure to remove any cut burrs before installing new bushings. Torn metal edges will quickly split the earbuds during use.
After installing new inserts, the bottom is carefully welded. In this case, it is necessary to compensate with the thickness of the seam the production of metal formed during the sawing. This is usually 1.5–2 mm.
Welding is one of the most painstaking options
Important! Use a welding method that minimizes temperature exposure. The inside of the polymer liner may heat up to its melting point. Therefore, until it cools completely, do not apply any load to the pin in order to avoid deformation of the liner.
This technology requires professional equipment, so it is impossible to expand a ball in a garage. The crimp ring is cut to the diameter of the ball of the finger.
Turning works will find their place here too
The seat and the ball are cleaned of dirt, polished. New liners and a crimping ring are selected or machined from caprolon.
It happens that caprolon is not available, but it is not recommended to replace it with steel. It is better to spend one time on this material than to replace it more often than it could be
After assembly, the ferrule is pressed in and rolled on the press. When crimping, special clip-on inserts are used along the diameter of the ring.
You can also search for inserts at auto dealerships.
A threaded plug looks preferable as there is no thermal effect on the support. However, this method requires a thick bottom, which is not always present on compact parts.
Glass with carvings - the golden mean. Welding takes place without affecting the plastic, however, the strength characteristics of the metal deteriorate.
Welding is the simplest, but ineffective way. After high temperature treatment, new polymer inserts lose their properties and their service life decreases.
Flaring is an ideal method in terms of quality. You actually get a new ball joint, manufactured using factory technologies. However, this technique does not work at home.
VIDEO
And there are actually two recovery technologies - either pour something inside, removing the cover, or disassemble the ball completely, pressing out the bottom. At the same time, the oil can was screwed in. Or they simply squeezed the outer part on the press. But more often than not, the ball dies from a torn cover, then dirt, sand, water are stuffed inside, grinding off the bushings, and the iron, and the ball. So not every ball can be restored. And it is not important how to restore, fill or disassemble, the main thing is that, in principle, it is possible.
I drove the remanufactured ball and steering wheels for two years, I’m not going to say anything bad, really good too ... The owner of the service station (according to him) immediately restores even new parts for himself, he says that the remanufactured ones last longer ... I’m used to drawing conclusions based on an understanding of the process, and how it is possible to restore a seemingly non-separable part, I do not understand ... STO specialists say: the finger is taken out, the wear of the finger is turned, then it is polished and filled with plastic.
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It makes no sense to fill in frankly rusty ones, since the geometry of the finger will already be too disturbed, which will lead to an irregular shape of the filled polymer, well, everything that follows from this.
Give examples of accidents that occurred due to the fault of the restored ball, and not due to the observance of the distance or speed limit, for example. I am engaged in repairs myself, I saw many restored parts, there are regular customers who have left for more than 50 thousand restored ones and it is excellent, the main thing is to restore it on time! And if you are afraid for your life, then buy new cars, not rubbish, which is already being scrapped in Europe, and follow ALL traffic rules. PS: The fact that you bought a new part does not mean that it is good, especially in our markets. New new discord.
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To decide how to repair your suspension, simply calculate the cost of rebuilding. In some cases, it makes sense to buy a new unit, sometimes repairs will be more cost-effective. In any case, the variety of possibilities gives you a chance to save money.
Knocking and rattling coming from the front, clicks when the car rolls strongly and sharp turns - all this indicates a possible malfunction of the chassis. You should not postpone diagnostics until later. The malfunction can be serious and affect road safety.
Backlash in the ball joint is included in the list of such faults. It occurs as a result of the formation of a gap between the body of the part and the element (ball "pin") attached to the steering knuckle. We will consider further how to determine and eliminate the breakdown on our own, saving at service stations.
First of all, you need to make sure that it is the ball joint that is faulty. The initial check is very simple. Remove the steering wheel lock - insert the key into the ignition and unlock the steering wheel. When the car is not started, swing the steering wheel from side to side. Movements should be short and rather abrupt. Pay attention to which side the knock is coming from. If the wear of the ball joint is negligible, such loads may be insufficient, and there may be no noise. In this case, steering rods and tips can also knock. This method is rather preliminary - it helps to identify the problematic side, but does not give precise statements.
Checking the malfunction of the ball joints
We drive the car to a viewing hole or overpass. We tighten the parking brake, engage the first gear of the gearbox, set the steering wheel to neutral. We leave the car and put chocks under the rear wheels. We raise the car with a jack from the side of the sounding knocks. Do not forget about insurance - we use the thresholds. If they are absent, we put the spare wheel. The resulting gap between the wheel and the ground must be sufficient for unhindered access to the inside of the wheel.
We swing the wheel by applying efforts to its top and bottom vertically. At this point, a partner will not interfere, who will be able to visually determine the presence of backlash at the junction of the ball joint pin with the steering knuckle. If you hear a knock, but you cannot visually determine the presence of a defect, put your hand on a support and repeat the steps. The backlash can be felt.
When there is no one to help, we use a pry bar or a large wrench or a piece of reinforcement. From the side of the inspection pit, we start the assembly between the suspension arm and the steering knuckle, having previously inspected the boot for breaks.
Smoothly shaking, we observe the presence of backlash. It is important to distinguish the working stroke of the ball finger from a malfunction. If, when acting on the unit, slight displacements of the suspension arm are visible without extraneous noise and knocking, while the structure does not lose its rigidity, this is a working stroke. If, under load, the distance between the lever and the fist increases, a knock is heard, and vibration is felt through the mount - this is a development in the ball itself. All the same actions, if necessary, we repeat from the other side.
You can watch the video for more information on checking the ball joint:
VIDEO
To carry out repair work, you will need a set of tools and wrenches, a hammer and a fitting. For convenience, it makes sense to get a special ball joint puller. It is better to check with the seller before buying.
It is also recommended to purchase a metal brush, with which we will clean the bolts and nuts from adhering sand and dirt. And "Liquid Key" is a penetrating lubricant with a rust converter. Let's make it easier to unscrew the acidified threaded connections, make the bolt hall less likely.
The selection of spare parts is carried out according to the VIN-code of your car, which eliminates the selection error. But it will not be superfluous to play it safe and pay attention to the ball joint when diagnosing. On some vehicles, the left foot is different from the right foot. When choosing a manufacturer, we listen to the recommendations of the seller. The value for money should be satisfactory. The ball joint is an important suspension element that affects road safety, so you should not save on it.
Front left and right ball joints for Toyota Corolla EE90
Depending on the manufacturer, a set of new mounting bolts and nuts may be included with the ball joint.
A very important point! Old fasteners often "sour", which makes it difficult to dismantle. Sometimes, you can only unscrew them by deforming them. Sheared threads, chipped bolts, and ripped edges can cause you to drive to the store in the middle of a repair job, leaving your vehicle disassembled. In the absence of new hardware in the kit, we are interested in where they can be purchased , is it possible to return the product if it is not needed.
It is more convenient and safer to repair on a viewing pit or overpass. You can get to the problem area from either side. If this is not possible, we choose a place that does not interfere with the passage of vehicles and the passage of people. We take into account unforeseen circumstances.
Depending on the car brand, the sequence and types of work may differ. Consider the most common cases:
First of all, do not forget about safety: handbrake, gear, wheel chocks. Use a wheel wrench to break off the wheel bolts or nuts. We raise the car with a jack. We put the racks or the spare wheel under the threshold. Unscrew the wheel fasteners and remove the wheel. Using a metal brush, we clean the fasteners of the ball joint and the bolts of the silent blocks of the suspension arm. We process it with the "Liquid Key". We are waiting for 10-15 minutes.
Processing of fasteners of silent blocks with "Liquid Key"
We unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle. If space permits, we use a head and a knob. If not, use the flap side of the key so as not to rip off the edges. The nut is tightened sufficiently.
If there is a special puller, we remove the ball bearing pin from the lug. Place the U-shaped part of the puller under the fist eyelet above the support boot. We wrap the puller nut with a key, press the L-shaped part on the ball finger.
The process of removing the ball joint together with the suspension arm from the steering knuckle
If there is no puller, use the pry bar as a lever. We push it between the suspension arm and the axle shaft, push it down to create tension in the node. We knock with a hammer at the attachment point of the ball joint with a swivel fist. The tension and shock must be strong enough. The finger should pop out.
In case of fixing with a locking bolt, unscrew the nut and take it out. If necessary, we help ourselves with a hammer. In order not to spoil the thread, we bait the nut and knock on it.
We unscrew the bolts securing the suspension arm to the subframe. If the nuts on the back side turn, hold them with a wrench. We take out the bolts. The bolt of the longitudinal silent block can rest against the axle shaft. In this case, we use the available supports for the steering knuckle. Raise it to a height that allows you to get the bolt. We remove the lever.
The process of removing the suspension arm (together with the ball joint) from the subframe
If the ball joint is attached to the suspension arm with bolts, then unscrew them. The factory support can be riveted. In this case, we drill them out. We use the purchased bolts to fasten the new part.
If the ball joint is pressed in, then remove the retaining ring (you can also remove the boot if it gets in the way) from the side of the finger. It is enough to pry them off with a flat screwdriver.
Removing the retaining ring and boot from the ball joint
Using a special puller, we press out the support. There is no such thing - we knock out with a hammer. The heavier the hammer, the easier it is. For convenience, we clamp the lever in a vise, or put it on two bricks so that nothing interferes with the exit of the ball. For accented hammer blows, we use a ball finger guide. The ½ extension bar from the tool kit is perfect for this purpose. The ball finger can be cut with a grinder, it will be easier to knock out. Since the force of the impact will not be extinguished by an unfixed finger, but will fall on the body. If the support does not give way, try to heat it with a gas burner. The metal will expand, it should help.
Pressing the ball joint out of the lever
Pressing in is carried out in the following sequence. We process the seat with a liquid key. After drying, grease with soapy water. Do not forget to lubricate the support for better sliding (unless the new ball has already been lubricated by the manufacturer). In the absence of special. tool for pressing, we select a mandrel suitable for the diameter. This can be a bearing cage or a head from a tool kit. Pressing in with improvised means no punches can be made to the center of the new support ... The load should be distributed evenly along the edges of the ball. We avoid distortions. With light blows in a circle, we drive the part into the seat.
Pressing in the ball joint
On the side of the ball finger, we put on the boot, if removed with a new ball, and the retaining ring, using a flat screwdriver. It is important to be careful not to tear the boot. An indicator that the retaining ring is in place is free rotation along the ball. The lever is installed in the reverse order.
You can watch the video for more information on replacing the ball joint:
VIDEO
On the assembled car, unscrew the central hub nut. This may require a special head and crank that can withstand heavy loads. To make it easier for yourself, a pipe of a suitable diameter can be put on the knob.
Removing the center hub nut
If your car has alloy wheels without a center hole, start by removing the wheel. We follow all the precautions. We hang out the problematic side, remove the wheel. We unscrew the hub nut. To fix the hub, ask your partner to press the brake pedal. If the brake discs are ventilated, insert a powerful screwdriver into the central air channel and push against the caliper, thereby locking the hub. This will allow you to perform this operation yourself.
We unscrew the fastening of the ABS cable and the sensor itself from the steering knuckle. Unscrew the brake hose mount. We unscrew the bolts of the caliper guides. We insert a flat screwdriver into the inspection window of the caliper between the brake disc and the pads, we spread them. Remove the caliper. We tie it with a rope or wire to the spring - do not leave it hanging on the brake hose The ABS sensor can be suspended in the same way.
Disconnecting ABS and Caliper
We unscrew the nut securing the upper ball joint with the steering knuckle, the lower support with the suspension arm. Unscrew the nut for fastening the steering end with a steering knuckle and unscrew it. The cotter pin lends itself quite easily, if necessary, we help ourselves with pliers. We remove the fingers of the ball joints and the steering tip from the lugs using a puller or a hammer, by analogy with the first case.
The process of knocking out the ball joint rod from the steering knuckle seat
We take out the steering fist. We change the support to a new one by analogy with point # 1. The steering knuckle is installed in the reverse order.
Removing the old and pressing in a new ball joint
You can find out more about this option in the video:
VIDEO
It is recommended to tighten the bolts and nuts with a certain effort using a torque wrench. Information on tightening torques can be found on the Internet at thematic sites. If you do not have such a key and do not plan to buy it, just be careful. Excessive force can strip threads and loose threaded connections can compromise safety. Feel in moderation.
If necessary, clean the removed bolts and nuts with a metal brush, treat with a "Liquid Wrench", lubricate with graphite grease. This will prevent souring and make future work easier.
Video (click to play).
After any intervention in the suspension system, it is recommended to do wheel alignment at specialized service stations.