Chevrolet epica DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Chevrolet Epica repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We will show you how to remove the door trim (door card) with your own hands in a Chevrolet Epica, produced in 2011, using the example of the front left driver's door. For work, we use special plastic strippers so as not to damage the trim, we begin to remove the plug from the handle:

A self-tapping screw is hidden under it, which must be unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. Next, we bend the corner with a plastic spatula and remove it:

A small plug is hidden under the handle, removing which we will find another self-tapping screw, keep in mind that it is made in the form of a cap, its lower end is soldered:

We “tear off” the casing from the inner clips, take it back a little and remove the cable:

Taking them out to the side and lifting them, everything is done by hand, without any tool. We disconnect the connector for turning off the light bulb, the connector for controlling the window regulator (latches on the side from the inside), the connector coming to the trunk opening button (the latch is at the bottom).

If you need to disassemble the door further, carefully remove the so-called oilcloth, it protects from dust and moisture, so that later it can be put back, it sits on the glue.

If you want to remove the mirror, then there is no need to remove all the trim, you can simply dismantle the plastic corner, unscrew the three self-tapping screws and pull out the connector with the wires.

Video (click to play).

Video removal of the door trim (door card) in the Chevrolet Epica:

Backup video how to remove door trim (door card) in Chevrolet Epica:

Chevrolet Epica 2.5 liter valve stem seals replacement without head removal. Video instruction

Today we have a Chevrolet Epica car with a 2.5-liter engine, produced in 2007 for repair, on which it is necessary to replace the valve stem seals. We will show you how to do it correctly with your own hands without removing the head. Along the way, all pipes of the cooling system will be replaced.

The caps are replaced due to the increased oil consumption, on average by 10 thousand km. run, 5 liters of oil are eaten. The motor did not overheat at the same time.

We remove the right wheel, its boot and crankcase protection. We drain the antifreeze, there is no drain plug, so we simply pull the clamp off the lower pipe. We unscrew the crankshaft pulley with the head 32, we rest one end of the key against the spar and turn the starter once to break.

The box contains a technical hatch closed with a rubber plug. We remove it and insert a mounting made of red-hot iron there, blocking for a bagel.

Only in this way it turned out to unscrew the pulley. We remove the drive belt, for this we put the head on the tension roller and lift it up. Before you fold off the belt, sketch a diagram of its location.

We open the hood, remove the expansion tank. We remove all connectors from the ignition coils and coils, each coil is attached with an M6 bolt. Unscrew the receiver mounts and take it out:

We unscrew the intake manifold from the bottom, there are two nuts for each inlet window, top and bottom. (M6 mounts). Remove the top cover of the air filter, together with the air duct, and the air flow sensor.

We turn off the supply from the fuel rail. There are some nuances, if it doesn’t work out, it’s better to watch it in the video. We dismantle the collector. We jack up the engine from below and remove the pillow and its bracket.

Unscrew the pump pulley fasteners. We dismantle the valve cover. We loop through the chain and set the labels.

The video contains detailed instructions on how to do this. The dots should point to the yellow links. Unscrew the upper chain damper and camshafts.Remove the chain and hydraulic tensioner.

Take a soft clothesline and push it into the cylinder about 60-70 cm. We turn the piston and squeeze the rope, close all the holes nearby so that the "cracker", if it suddenly pops out, could not get into the engine. We will use our drying tool for 16-valve VAZ engines, it is ideal. We screw on a third-party bolt and dry the valve:

It is convenient to use a magnet to collect a pop-up "crouton". We remove the caps with special forceps for caps:

We have new caps from GM, their number is 96307714. We replace each cap in this way. Then we assemble in reverse order, all this is shown in the video clip. I would like to say right away that the oil consumption after the repair has become much less, but it is still there, the next stage will change the piston rings in order to minimize it.

Video of replacing the valve stem seals in the Chevrolet Epica 2.5: