Chevrolet Niva 2123 DIY repair

The Chevrolet Niva is an elegant SUV. The Chevrolet-Niva is the base model of a new family of off-road vehicles and the first product of the General Motors-AvtoVAZ joint venture.

By car Chevrolet-Niva, it is comfortable and convenient to move around the city streets, and on weekends go to the country house. A family of three can easily go on vacation: there is enough space for things. All-wheel drive cheviniva is especially needed where roads end and directions begin. Here the car feels at ease.

Compared to its predecessor VAZ-2123, significant changes have been made to the design of the Chevrolet-Niva SUV. Thus, keeping all the best properties of the VAZ-21213, the Chevrolet-Niva car has a new load-bearing body of a modern shape, a permanent drive of all wheels, as well as a number of innovations: the front axle gearbox is “untied” from the engine; the design of the gearbox drive has been changed; extended intermediate shaft; front and rear propeller shafts are unified. The brake system has been seriously modernized in the car, including the design of the master cylinder and the brake booster. The chassis and transmission of the old "Niva" have not changed structurally - they used modernized, life-tested units.

The Chevy-Niva in the basic configuration is equipped with an adjustable steering column, immobilizer and central locking, power windows for the front doors, headlight range control and radio preparation. The car is equipped with a 1.7 liter 80 hp injection engine. with., a system of electronic distributed fuel injection and an exhaust system with a catalytic converter, which meets the requirements of toxicity standards "Euro-2" and "Euro-3".

For an additional fee, you can get alloy wheels instead of steel, tinted glass, front fog lamps, velor interior with heated front seats, two speakers and an antenna, rear seat head restraints and a lockable plastic spare wheel cover.

The elegance of the urban SUV Chevy-Niva is emphasized by the metallic paintwork, painted in the body color of the bumper. The color scheme of the car is presented in seven colors. The body of the Chevrolet Niva is a five-door with glued-in glass, a tailgate (with a spare wheel located on it), opening to the side. The car's interior is quite spacious and can easily accommodate five people, has a rear seat folding in parts.

Specifications. Dimensions (edit)

• Floor panel (front, middle, rear)
• Sill connectors and floor sill boxes
• Inner side panel
• Side panel, lower
• Front fender reinforcement, rear
• Front mudguard
• Rear wing extension
• Body sidewall
• Front door panel (outer and inner)
• Rear door panel (outer and inner)
• Tailgate panel (outer and inner)
• Front wing
• Rear wing

Samples of different types of car differentials:

Assemble the engine as follows.

Install a clean block on the stand and wrap the missing pins in it.

Lubricate the bearing shells and the thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repairs, install new crankshaft oil seals.

WARNING. When installing the Freudenberg front crankshaft oil seal, use the special drift (LTS.01.102).

When installing the Freudenberg rear crankshaft oil seal, use the special tool (LTS.01.101).

Place bushings without a groove on the inner surface in the middle bearing seat and in its cover. Place liners with a groove in the rest of the slots of the cylinder block, and in the corresponding covers - liners without a groove.

Place the crankshaft in the main bearings and insert two thrust half rings into the seats of the rear support (Fig. 2-17).

Rice. 2-17. Installation of thrust half rings on the rear support.

WARNING. The half-rings should face the grooves towards the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft (from the side of the grooves, an anti-friction layer is applied to the surface of the half-ring).

Place a steel-aluminum half-ring on the front side of the rear support, and a cermet (yellow) half-ring on the back side.

Install the main bearing caps according to the markings on the outside of the main bearing caps (Figure 2-18). Tighten the cover bolts.

Rice. 2-18. Markings on the main bearing caps (bearings are counted from the front of the engine).

Check the axial free play of the crankshaft. To do this, mount the indicator on a magnetic stand and insert the ends of two screwdrivers as shown in fig. 2-19. Moving the shaft with screwdrivers, measure the axial free movement of the shaft with an indicator. It should be within 0.060.26 mm. If the free play is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half rings with new ones or installing half rings of increased thickness.

Rice. 2-19. Checking the axial free play of the crankshaft.

Install the gasket of the rear oil seal holder on the crankshaft flange, and insert the bolts securing the front cover of the clutch housing into the holder seats (Fig. 2-20). Install the holder with the oil seal on the crankshaft flange, attach to the cylinder block.

Rice. 2-20. Crankshaft rear oil seal holder. The arrows indicate the projections for centering the holder relative to the crankshaft flange.

Install the front cover 6 (see Fig. 2-11) of the clutch housing along the two centering sleeves (Fig. 2-21). Attach the cover with nuts to the rear oil seal holder.

Rice. 2-21. Clutch dowel pins (black arrows) and clutch housing centering sleeves (white arrows).

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (tapered hole) near the rim is against the axis of the connecting rod journal of the fourth cylinder, lock the flywheel with A.60330 / R and bolt it to the crankshaft flange.

Using a piston ring bushing, insert the pistons with connecting rods into the cylinders (Figure 2-22).

Rice. 2-22. Installing a piston with piston rings using a ring crimp sleeve and cylinder head centering sleeves (shown by arrows).

WARNING. The hole for the pin on the piston is offset from the axis by 1.2 mm, therefore, when installing the pistons in the cylinders, the arrow on the piston crown must point towards the camshaft drive.

Install the bushings in the connecting rods and the connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and covers on the crankshaft journals and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cover is opposite the cylinder number on the lower connecting rod head.

Install the sprocket onto the crankshaft. Install the oil pump drive shaft and secure with a thrust flange.

Install the two centering sleeves in the cylinder block (see Fig. 2-22) and fit the cylinder head gasket over them.

WARNING. When assembling the engine, always install a new cylinder head gasket. The use of a used gasket is not permitted.

Before installing the gasket, it is necessary to remove all oil from the mating surfaces of the block and cylinder head. The gasket must be clean and dry. Oil should not come into contact with the surface of the gasket. If oil gets in, degrease the gasket.

Turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.

Install the cylinder head assembly with valves over the two centering sleeves on the block.

Rice. 2-23. Tightening the cylinder head bolts.

Tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in the sequence shown in fig. 223. To ensure reliable sealing and to prevent tightening of the bolts during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:

1st reception - tighten bolts 1-10 to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgcm);

2nd method - tighten bolts 1-10 to 69.4-85.7 Nm (7.1-8.7 kgcm), and bolt 11 to 31.36-39.1 Nm (3.2-3, 99 kgcm);

3rd reception - tighten bolts 1-10 by 90 O;

4th reception - again tighten the bolts 1-10 by 90 O

WARNING. Cylinder head bolts may only be reused if the bolt rod is extended by no more than 117 mm. If the bolt is longer, replace it with a new one.

Before assembling the engine, lubricate the threads and bolt heads by dipping them in engine oil beforehand. Then let the excess oil drain off by holding the bolts for at least 30 minutes. Remove oil from the bolt holes in the cylinder block.

Turn the flywheel so that the mark on the crankshaft sprocket matches the mark on the cylinder block (Figure 2-24).

Rice. 2-24. Checking the alignment of the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the cylinder block.

Check if the camshaft bearing housing dowel sleeves are in place (Figure 2-25). Install the sprocket on the camshaft, assembled with the bearing housing, and rotate the shaft so that the mark on the sprocket is against the mark on the bearing housing (Figure 2-26). Remove the sprocket and, without changing the position of the shaft, install the bearing housing on the cylinder head so that the locating sleeves enter the seats of the bearing housing. Secure the bearing housing by tightening the nuts in the sequence shown in fig. 2-27.

Rice. 2-25. Dowel sleeves for the camshaft bearing housing.

Rice. 2-26. Checking the alignment of the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the bearing housing :

1 - a mark on an asterisk; 2 - mark on the bearing housing.

Rice. 2-27. The procedure for tightening the camshaft bearing housing nuts.

Install a chain damper on the cylinder head.

Install the camshaft drive chain:

- put the chain on the camshaft sprocket and insert it into the drive cavity, setting the sprocket so that the mark on it coincides with the mark on the bearing housing (see Fig. 2-26). Do not tighten the sprocket bolt until it stops;

- install the sprocket on the oil pump drive shaft, also without finally tightening the mounting bolt;

- install the chain tensioner shoe and the hydraulic tensioner;

- install the hydraulic tensioner tube;

- check the alignment of the marks on the sprockets with the marks on the cylinder block and on the bearing housing (see Fig. 2-24 and 2-26);

- if the marks match, then blocking the flywheel with the lock A.60330 / R (see Fig. 2-9), finally tighten the sprocket bolts, bend the sprocket bolt lock washers; if the marks do not match, then repeat the operation to install the chain.

Install the camshaft drive cover (Fig. 2-28) with a gasket and an oil seal on the cylinder block, without finally tightening the bolts and nuts. Center the position of the cover relative to the end of the crankshaft and finally tighten the nuts and bolts of its fastening.

Rice. 2-28. Camshaft drive cover. The arrows show the projections for centering the cover relative to the crankshaft pulley hub.

Install the crankshaft damper and secure with a nut.

Install the power steering pump bracket with the pump assembly.

Install the oil filter with gasket by hand screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block. Install the crankcase ventilation oil separator, breather cap and retainer for the oil separator drain tube.

Install the oil pump 1 (Fig.2-29) and oil sump with gasket.

Rice. 2-29. Installing the oil pump :

1 - oil pump; 2 - drain tube clamp; 3 - oil separator drain tube.

Install the coolant pump, alternator bracket and alternator. Install the belt on the pulleys and adjust its tension following the recommendations outlined in the subsection "Adjusting the tension of the accessory drive belt".

Install the air conditioning compressor and its drive belt on the engine following the recommendations set out in the subsection "Air conditioning system".

Install the heater radiator inlet pipe and the outlet pipe to the cylinder head.

Install the exhaust manifold 2 (Fig. 2-9), screen 6 and inlet pipe 4 (Fig. 2-8) onto the cylinder head.

Install the starter shield to the engine.

Install the gauge sensors.

Install the oil pump drive gear and gear retainer. Install the spark plugs and tighten with a torque wrench.

Install the cylinder head cover with gasket, engine shield brackets and accelerator cable.

Install the ignition coil and knock sensor.

Install the fuel rail onto the intake pipe and secure it with bolts 3 (see Fig. 2-8). Connect the wiring harness to the injectors. Before installing the fuel rail, lubricate the injector O-rings with engine oil.

Connect the fuel supply pipe to the rail.

Install the gasket, receiver 7 (see Fig. 2-6), engine shield bracket to the intake pipe and tighten five nuts.

Connect the choke tube with gasket to the receiver.

Connect the coolant inlet and outlet hoses, the crankcase ventilation hose to the throttle branch pipe.

Pour engine oil into the engine through the filler neck on the cylinder head cover.

Engine break-in after repair

The repaired engine is subjected to bench tests (running in) without load according to the following cycle:

Once installed on the bench and starting the engine, check the following:

- whether there is a leakage of coolant or fuel between the mating parts, from the pipe connections and through the gaskets;

- oil pressure and whether there is oil leakage through the gaskets;

- idling speed;

- are there any extraneous knocks.

If extraneous knocks or malfunctions are found, stop the engine, eliminate them, and then continue testing.

If oil leaks through the gasket between the cover and the cylinder head or through the gaskets between the engine oil sump, cylinder block and covers, tighten the mounting bolts to the recommended torque. If the oil continues to flow, check if the gaskets are properly installed and replace if necessary.

Since the engine has not yet been run-in after repairs and the friction of the working surfaces of new parts has significant resistance to rotation, a certain run-in period is required.

This especially applies to those engines on which pistons, connecting rod and main bearing shells have been replaced, the crankshaft journals have been reground, and the cylinders have been honed.

Therefore, when running in a repaired engine, do not subject it to maximum stress. Engine break-in should be continued on the vehicle at the recommended speeds for the vehicle break-in period.

We have one trait: we respect something irrational. A sports camshaft in Nexia, tinted lights or alloy wheels on the "six" ... It doesn't matter what, the main thing is that it is not clear how you can love it.

The owner of our today's Niva, when choosing a car, hesitated between Renault Sandero Stepway and Chevrolet Niva. During a test drive in the car dealership, the trunk of Niva did not open, the gears were switched with difficulty, and when trying to urgently brake the car stalled, and no one could start it for several minutes. And yet, the choice was made in favor of Niva.Why? Here I will not answer you anything, even the owner of this Niva could not clearly answer. Like it, and that's it! It happens, right?

Chevrolet Niva was a logical continuation of the classic Niva VAZ-2121. At one time, this car could be called one of the most successful Soviet cars. A lot of materials of varying degrees of quality and objectivity are devoted to the history of its origin, so let me skip the history of the creation of Niva today. Let's go straight to the one that the Chevrolet.

VAZ-2121 was good for everyone, but especially outside the city. The time has come, and it was already just awkward to drive the old Niva around the megalopolis, especially since various Suzuki Vitaras and other Toyota RAV4 began to slip in the stream of cars more and more often. The sight of foreign representatives of the then still new class of SUVs caused bouts of greening of the skin of the nivovods, and in the end it became clear that the Niva would have to be modernized. It is now, when crossovers have turned into hatchbacks with plastic door sills, people realized that they didn’t like "honest" SUVs in vain, but then everything was different ...

In 1998, when a little more than 20 years have passed since the production of the VAZ-2121, the designers of AVTOVAZ showed the world the VAZ-2123. Then the word "Chevrolet" was not in the name yet, the car was called Niva II. Inside a more or less modern-looking body, the same old Niva was hidden, however, with significant alterations, especially in the transmission. During this difficult time for the country in general and for AVTOVAZ in particular, it was not possible to launch a new car. From 1998 to 2002, the VAZ-2123 was assembled only in small batches in a pilot industrial production. Most likely, God would have mercy, but in 2002 they managed to reach an agreement with General Motors, a joint venture GM-AvtoVAZ was created, as a result of which a Chevrolet badge appeared on the Niva's lining, and Niva became a trademark of joint production. The classic Niva has since been produced under the name Lada 4 × 4.

In 2009, the Chevrolet Niva experienced the first and last restyling, although it has not changed dramatically. More important is the fact that during the production of the car since 2002, many units changed periodically, which is why the car gradually became better and better. We'll see what you could buy in 2012 a little later, but for now, let's note this.

Like any car, the Chevy Niva has both ardent supporters and haters. And this is explained, first of all, by the instability of quality. There are almost 95% of domestic components in the car, the assembly is also local, and despite the patronage of GM, within the same batch, there were both completely problem-free cars and literally falling apart on the go. Especially in the early years of production. Although there is a bike on the Internet about Niva, which went and did not break at all for four years. It is difficult to vouch for the veracity, but the likelihood of such a development of events exists.

One way or another, the Chevrolet Niva has won its share of consumer love. Still: it was impossible to buy something more passable imported for its cost, but some level of comfort is still present. During the restyling of 2009, we even managed to draw a quite nice interior.

The power unit of the Chevrolet Niva originates from the good old 21213 carburetor engine of the first Niva. Of course, a lot has changed over time, but looking at the engine of today's Chevrolet Niva, it's hard not to remember its venerable progenitor. The modern VAZ-2123 engine is an injection engine, and another innovation of the motor is a hydraulic compensator mechanism.

Due to the specificity of the car, the owners often deal with its maintenance themselves - the design is not the most complicated, and it will not present any surprises to those who are familiar with domestic technology. Therefore, we will not describe in detail, for example, the procedure for changing the oil or air filter - everything is simple and clear.

The oil filter is traditionally located on the side of the block; access to it is not the most convenient, but you can unscrew it.Its cost is from 400 to 600 rubles. Oil will need 3.75 liters. To unscrew the drain plugs, you will need a hexagon, you will have to look for the plug itself, but the standard boot allows you to unscrew it without removing the boot itself. Inconvenient, but possible. Thanks to the high ground clearance, you can even do without a pit or a lift, especially since the plug is in front of the engine. If a more serious crankcase protection is installed on the car, then it is still better to raise the car.

If the hood is open, let's see what else can surprise you. Many Chevrolet Niva owners are faced with the problem of a burst expansion tank. This happens for two reasons. Firstly, the very shape of the tank is not very successful: it is rectangular with side surfaces of a rather large area, which do not like coolant pressure drops. The second reason lies in the unstable quality of the tank cap, the valves of which do not always adequately respond to pressure drops in the cooling system. If suddenly the car starts to "boil" or a crack appears on the second tank in a row - you should pay attention to the cork.

There is a problem and worse than the tank plug - this is the hydraulic timing chain tensioner. He himself does not always cope with the work, but sometimes he also has a desire to stop working altogether due to a burst oil supply pipe. The first sign of unsatisfactory operation of the hydraulic tensioner will be a metallic clanging sound. On motors after 2008, the mechanism was slightly changed, the diameter of the oil tube was increased. However, the problem has not completely gone away, so many people prefer to change the hydraulic tensioner to a mechanical one. There is already an ISAI tensioner, which does not require adjustment as the chain stretches (in any case, this is what the manufacturer of the device convinces). Such a thing costs only 1,000 rubles, but, according to many Niva owners, it significantly increases the reliability of the chain drive. The chain itself is capable of serving about 100,000 kilometers before being replaced.

The hydraulic compensators of the motors of the first Niva caused a desire to change them to ordinary adjusting bolts. Now with the hydraulic lifters, the situation has improved significantly, although the noise in the cylinder head found on many copies during a cold start of the engine is considered by most nivovodov to be the norm.

Before replacing the alternator belt, you need to determine how its tension is adjusted. In some cars, it is adjusted by displacing the generator (as in the "classic"), later cars have a tension roller (in the latter case, the generator is located on top, to the left of the engine).

In general, under the hood, we note a fairly convenient layout for minor repairs and maintenance. Replacing the headlight bulbs, the air filter (all you need is a Phillips screwdriver), adding fluids - it's all simple. Although, for example, removing the starter will have to suffer.

What cannot be taken away from Niva is an honest all-wheel drive. From time to time, some comrades have a desire to make the four-wheel drive disconnectable, and then the limit of interference in the design is limited only by laziness and imagination. Most often, they simply remove one of the cardan shafts (mainly the front one), especially hardworking owners install bridge shutdown blocks. It seems that all these actions are from the evil one, but it is imperative to know that such "tuned" cars occur in nature. If you suddenly have a desire to buy a used Chevrolet Niva, ask if the previous owner did not abuse trips without one cardan. If yes - check the car for increased vibrations due, for example, to the "death" of the transfer case supports.

It was not possible to collect telling statistics of gearbox breakdowns and "hand-outs", which indirectly speaks of their good reliability, but quite often there are claims to the clutch drive. It is hydraulic here, and both the main and the clutch slave cylinders have to be changed.Periodically, the toad presses on the owner of the Niva with all its heavy carcass, and he is engaged in the repair of cylinders, since you can buy repair kits. By and large, all this is a relic of "deep antiquity", when we also riveted brake linings for drum mechanisms. Now it is more expedient to replace these mechanisms entirely, since they cost a penny in today's money: from 400 to 600 rubles. Replacing each of the cylinders in the service will cost 800 rubles, but everyone who remembers how to bleed the clutch can do this work on their own. However, those who remember will definitely take on an assistant: no one has yet been able to turn the fittings and simultaneously press the pedal.

There is one major difference in the drivetrain between pre-2010 cars and later ones. After 2010, new shafts with constant velocity joints were installed. As a consequence, the appearance of anthers, the condition of which will have to be closely monitored. To the credit of the early design, we note the simpler removal and installation of the universal joint: just unscrew four bolts on each side. To remove the shaft with CV joints, you will need to hang out the "razdatka". Of course, to replace the boot, you will also have to tinker with the "razdatkoy", and the boot itself will cost 200-300 rubles, and the replacement price will be much higher and will greatly depend on the moral qualities of the workshop masters.

When changing the oil in boxes and gearboxes, it is permissible to use one 75w-90 gear oil. The gearbox will include 1.6 liters, the transfer case - 0.79 liters, the front axle gearbox - 1.15 liters, and the rear axle - 1.3 liters.

The weak point of the chassis is the wheel bearings. The mileage of our car is only 34 thousand, and they have already been changed. The cost of bearings starts from 400 rubles, the average cost of replacement is 1,500. Well, for the rest ... Here we will remind once again: Niva is an SUV, therefore, its suspensions are usually not taken care of. And the life of the undercarriage will greatly depend on where and how this car usually drives. It makes sense to pay attention to the following detail.

Repair and maintenance of Chevrolet Niva. The Chevrolet-Niva is the base model of a new family of off-road vehicles and the first fruit of the General Motors-AvtoVAZ joint venture.

By car Chevrolet-Niva, it is comfortable and convenient to move around the city streets, and on weekends go to the country house. A family of three can easily go on vacation: there is enough space for things. All-wheel drive cheviniva is especially needed where roads end and directions begin. Here the car feels at ease.

Compared to its predecessor Vaz-2123, significant changes have been made to the design of the Chevrolet-Niva SUV. So, keeping all the best properties of the Vaz-21213, the Chevrolet-Niva car has a new load-bearing body of a modern shape, a permanent drive of all wheels, as well as a number of innovations: the front axle gearbox is “untied” from the engine; the design of the gearbox drive has been changed; extended intermediate shaft; front and rear propeller shafts are unified. The brake system has been seriously modernized in the car, including the design of the master cylinder and the brake booster. The chassis and transmission of the old "Niva" have not changed structurally - they used modernized, life-tested units.

The Chevy-Niva in the basic configuration is equipped with an adjustable steering column, immobilizer and central locking, power windows for the front doors, headlight range control and radio preparation. The car is equipped with a 1.7 liter 80 hp injection engine. with., a system of electronic distributed fuel injection and an exhaust system with a catalytic converter, which meets the requirements of toxicity standards "Euro-2" and "Euro-3".

For an additional fee, you can get alloy wheels instead of steel, tinted glass, front fog lamps, velor interior with heated front seats, two speakers and an antenna, rear seat head restraints and a lockable plastic spare wheel cover.

The elegance of the city SUV Chevy-Niva is emphasized by the metallic paintwork, the painted Chevrolet Niva body color photo. The color scheme of the car is presented in seven colors. The body of the Chevrolet Niva is a five-door with glued-in glass, a tailgate (with a spare wheel located on it), opening to the side. The car's interior is quite spacious and can easily accommodate five people, has a rear seat folding in parts.

The arrow marks the receiver of the engine of the Chevrolet Niva (VAZ-2123)

Once I had a story with cleaning the throttle assembly of my Shnivki (Chevrolet Niva or VAZ-2123). I cleaned everything perfectly. I already wanted to install the throttle assembly back on the receiver, but by chance I looked into it. This is what I saw there

This condition is probably still not normal, and therefore I decided to clean the receiver too. Moreover, there is still a little liquid left for cleaning carburetors in an aerosol can.

• a can of aerosol cleaner for carburetors "Carb & Choke Cleaner" from ABRO;
• head for 13 with an extension and a wrench;
• Phillips screwdriver (Phillips screwdriver).

Let me remind you that before removing the receiver, I dismantled the throttle assembly from it (described in detail in the article "Do-it-yourself cleaning of the throttle assembly of the engine of a Chevrolet Niva (VAZ-2123) car").

If you just need to remove the receiver itself, then when removing the throttle assembly there is no need to disconnect the hoses from it. It is enough just to take the throttle assembly a little to the side, so as not to interfere.

After that, he proceeded directly to the removal of the receiver.

The first thing I did was yank the throttle cable out of the bracket. It was possible, of course, to unscrew the entire bracket, but it seemed to me easier to just pull out the cable itself.

I loosened, using a Phillips screwdriver, the clamp securing the hose of the vacuum brake booster to the receiver pipe and removed the hose from the pipe.

On newer machines, the clamps are of a different type, they are loosened with pliers.

In my case, then I removed the gas cylinder system hose from the fitting screwed into the receiver.

Using a 13 head with an extension and a wrench, unscrew the 5 nuts securing the receiver to the inlet pipe. The 3 nuts are located on the side of the throttle cable bracket.

... 2 nuts secure the rear right engine trim bracket. In my case, the gas cylinder system ramp is immediately fixed

Carefully remove the receiver from the engine intake pipe studs and move it forward slightly. Remove the thin white hose of the fuel pressure regulator. He is dressed without a collar.

The receiver was cleaned using liquid from a can of an aerosol cleaner for carburetors "Carb & Choke Cleaner" by ABRO. I installed the receiver in a cut-off plastic canister and watered it abundantly from a can. Spill thoroughly into all openings and fittings. After such cleaning, the receiver began to shine like new.

The receiver was installed in the reverse order. Fit all hoses securely and fasten them. If necessary, change the receiver gasket.

Do it yourself! Articles on what you can do with your own hands!

• Auto, Moto (20)
• Wardrobe (6)
• Pets (3)
• Home renovation (75)
  • Doors (6)
  • Tile (5)
  • Roof (4)
  • Loggia (2)
  • Windows (9)
  • Heating (7)
  • Floor (10)
  • Ceiling (8)
  • Walls (14)
  • Food & Drink (12)
    • Jam (1)
    • Cooking in the country (2)
    • Desserts (3)
    • Baby food (1)
    • Bakery products (1)
    • Toys and crafts (15)
    • Tools (7)
    • Computer (1)
      • PC Software (1)
      • Furniture (17)
      • Useful little things (24)
      • Garden (59)
      • Plumbing (5)
      • Sports (4)
      • Creativity (67)
      • Technics (10)
      • Electrical (4)

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      

      When, a year and a half after buying a Chevrolet Niva VAZ 2123 car, the power window of the front right door refused to me, the first thing I did was turn to the company service. It turned out that the service does not do repairs, but change the entire power window. It took evil that once again they are trying to breed you like a sucker. Own express marketing at car dealerships and the Internet has shown that such mechanisms on VAZs of the latest models differ slightly. Having estimated that in case of a successful self-repair, I would save a decent amount, I got down to business.

      It was necessary to remove the door trim, check the serviceability of the gearmotor switch. And if the problem is in the gearmotor, you will have to remove the glass from the door and the entire window regulator mechanism. It took a flat-blade and a Phillips screwdriver, a head or an 8-point wrench.

      The procedure for removing the door trim is not particularly difficult. First, the screw that secures the lining of the inner handle of the lock is unscrewed, the lining itself is moved and removed. Use a flat screwdriver to pry off and remove the plastic caps of the two handrail fastening screws. These screws are unscrewed and removed, the handrail is removed. Unscrew the screws securing the plastic door pocket and remove it. Any sequence of these actions is possible.

      And yet, when all the screws have been removed and the door trim parts have been removed, carefully separate the trim from the door so as not to damage the plastic caps and paintwork. It is best to do this using a wooden or plastic stick, but you can also use a screwdriver. The tool should be used as a wedge to pry the upholstery next to the caps and carefully, without applying great effort, separate the upholstery from the door until the cap comes out of the hole for which it clings. Then, slightly swaying from side to side, carefully in a vertical plane, raise the upholstery so that it comes out of the plastic glass seal and the door locking button is under the upper edge of the door upholstery.

      Read also:  DIY electrolux repair

      Now, when access to the "stuffing" of the door is open, we check with a device that the power window switch is in good working order. To do this, through the left technological opening, I took out the block of the wiring harness of the power window motor. If the switch is OK, we continue to work. Otherwise, contact an electrician.

      The work had to be carried out outside, so in case of rain and in order to avoid other problems, I closed the window opening from the outside with a piece of film using adhesive tape. And to prevent damage to the paintwork when removing the glass, he sealed the inside of the window opening with tape.

      To remove the glass, he unscrewed two bolts of the plate with which it is attached to the holder and carefully lowered the glass along the window regulator guide. Then he unscrewed the bolt fastening the guide, which he then pushed aside so as not to interfere with the removal of the glass. Next, you need to remove the plastic seal at the bottom of the window opening, carefully lifting it from one side. He lifted the back of the glass so that the bottom edge of the glass was at an angle of about 45 degrees, and carefully removed the glass from the inside of the door.

      Then he unscrewed the nuts securing the window regulator, one at the top and bottom, and two in the central part of the door. Having found the optimal position, through the technological opening in the lower part of the door, he took out the window regulator mechanism.

      All moving parts of this mechanism should be carefully inspected for mechanical damage, dust, dirt. If necessary, clean, rinse, lubricate with Litol or something similar. At the same time, you can check the condition of the drainage holes at the bottom of the door and, if necessary, clean them with a wooden stick.

      Disconnecting the gearmotor from the rest of the power window was not a big problem.If an external inspection of the gearmotor does not raise any questions, unscrew the screws securing the cover that covers the gears and the motor shaft. After removing the cover, make sure that everything is in order with the gears, there is enough lubricant. After that, tightly, if necessary, using auto-sealant, fasten the cover and get down to the electric motor.

      The electric motor is a metal glass, it is also a stator, with flat surfaces on both sides, which is attached to the gearmotor housing with two screws. Having unscrewed the fastening screws, I pulled the electric motor out of the gearmotor housing. However, the shaft did not turn and it was not possible to remove the rotor of the electric motor. I had to, after wrapping it with a rag, clamp it in a vice. With the help of a soft metal tube (you can also use other devices made of wood or plastic that cannot damage the metal), not a large hammer, gently tapping on the edge of the electric motor housing will hardly separate it from the rotor. And he gasped. Everything was covered with a thick layer of rust. An hour and a half I had to tinker, cleaning the parts of the electric motor from it. Metal brushes and emery cloths, thin files for scraping rust from hard-to-reach places were used. Then the rotor and stator were thoroughly washed in gasoline, dried, treated with anticorrosive, dried again and started assembling.

      It is very important to pay attention to three circumstances here. The first is the graphite brushes and springs that press them against the rotor. You have to be very careful here. The brushes together with the springs must be fixed with a wire until the motor housing is put on the rotor. Then remove the "holders" and check the rotation of the rotor. It should turn with little effort. The second is two small plastic bushings on which the motor shaft rests on both sides. We must try not to lose them. And the third circumstance is the winding of the electric motor from the varnished wire. We must try not to damage the winding when removing rust.

      Before inserting the shaft into place it is necessary to lubricate it, pay attention to the lubrication of the shaft ends. After the shaft is inserted into the gearmotor housing, cover the planes of the seats of the gearmotor housing and the electric motor with auto-sealant, fix it with two screws. Immediately after that, we connect the connector and use the power window control button to check the operation of the motor reducer. If it works, we install the entire mechanism in the door. At the same time, we pay special attention to the position of the glass, avoiding distortions. Only after the glass is properly installed we fix it. We reconnect the connector to the block on the gear motor and check the operation of the power window switch to determine if the direction of movement of the glass corresponds to the designation on the switch button. If necessary, turn the block over, check it again. If everything works fine, install the plastic glass seal, door trim, handrail, plastic pocket, lining of the inner lock handle.

      The entire work took three hours and saved the family budget $ 80.

      Video (click to play).

      This article does not cover cases associated with replacing motor brushes or rotor windings. These works require special skills and therefore it is better to immediately contact an auto electrician. But in any case, it will be cheaper and faster than replacing the entire power window at the service.

      

      Rate the article:

      Grade 3.2 who voted: 82