Tire changer DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself tire changer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Specialized forum for car service and tire equipment

Tavros 24.06.2013, 15:55

The other day we brought the "shell-shocked" machine "Trommelberg" to the service. According to the owner of the device, on the table of a car tire fitting, they “inflated” a wheel from a tractor (rear or front - it was not possible to find out

). As a result, somehow, the camera burst, the wheel flew up to the ceiling, destroyed it, and then safely landed back on the tire fitting, severely deforming it.

Added after 5 minutes 9 seconds:
After a complete disassembly, it became clear that one gearbox cover was not enough - the driven gear was also destroyed. Circumstances subtly hinted at a complete replacement of the gearbox, which in fact equated to 60% of the cost of a new machine.

Added after 5 minutes 42 seconds:
Considering that the machine is not so "ancient" (year of manufacture - 2010), and the state is not so neglected (not counting the deformation of the gearbox), it was decided to "revive" the tire fitting at the component level, which, in turn, was a risky undertaking.

Added after 37 minutes 13 seconds:
In addition, while the spare parts were "driving", the following work was done:
one). restoration of the profile of the driving pulley (new - 300 UAH, groove - 100);
2). replacement of a “tired” V-belt;
3). The “oiler” was finally filled with the long-awaited oil, and not the condensate that has lately settled there;
4). several cuffs in the machine cylinders were replaced;
5). taking into account that the owners changed the engine not to the original one, having incorrectly installed it on the platform, this module had to be disassembled too (new grooves, milling work.);
6). replacement of driven gear bearings.

Finding a tire shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the place of puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On a business trip or trip. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How it do?

Video (click to play).

In the old days, drivers caught off guard used tried and tested tools. They were as follows:

the damaged wheel was lifted by a jack and removed from the car;
the "spare wheel" was installed for a while;
the edges of the dismantled wheel at the level of the joint with the disc were substituted under one of the wheels of the machine;
several runs over the entire diameter of the tire were carried out;
the inner edge of the tire on one side was completely torn off the rim (sometimes the collision was replaced by blows of a powerful sledgehammer);
two assemblies were inserted into the weakened gap;
by successive movements of the tools clockwise or counterclockwise, the rubber was picked out from the disc outward;
then manipulations with assemblies were carried out on the other side of the wheel;
the disc and tire were completely separated from each other.

Further, repairs were carried out, which usually consisted of replacing the camera or tire.

The big disadvantages of the method were its laboriousness and the almost inevitable cases of disk crushing at the edges.

For tubeless tires, such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disc will have to be aligned or discarded. Cash costs for a new disk are inevitable in such a situation.

In a standard tire shop, the actual operations are the same.The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, more accurate in relation to the disk. As a result, after renovation, it exactly retains its previous geometry. But how achieve it most?

If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized wheel disassembly devices. The overwhelming majority of them are, in principle, focused on professional equipment. Features mainly concern only some of the design solutions.

Handcrafted machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. Moreover, they:

more simple in design;
have a manual drive for dismantling;
reliable in operation;
small-sized;
easy to disassemble and easy to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
allow for prompt repairs outside the tire workshop, directly at the scene of the accident;
in the overwhelming majority of all handicraft devices are designed for the wheels of cars.

Needless to say, dismantling a wheel for the owners of such machines is incomparably more economical than a similar service in a car service.

an impromptu table with a vertical stand (top - threaded thread);
a locking washer for fixing a disc with an internal thread and an axle sleeve;
movable console with bracket;
a metal rod with blades that bend the bead of the tire from the disc;
rod retaining bolt.

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod, the blade has to be constantly knocked out with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Modern design. Console and arm with spatula were purchased from an auto parts store. The disadvantages include a short handle, which does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

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Console and bracket with paddle

The accessory tool, console and bracket are shown here as factory. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is the hassle of the dismantling process, which involves the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be performed, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options as well. It makes no sense to consider all inventions: they are arranged approximately the same.

Let's turn to one model. In it, all the above disadvantages are eliminated as much as possible. It is quite simple to make the entire machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

Dimensional Drawings - the first thing that any practical activity begins with. In this case, we will consider a very convenient version of the machine that combines the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This is a schematic diagram of the device and functioning of the unbeading mechanism:

In its natural state (after a fairly simple assembly), the machine will look like this:

It is made of 50x25 mm rectangular steel profiles. It needs to be cut into five pieces, and welded into one stable base. The length of the run of the parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the trunk of the car.

It is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 mm (for the width of the frame components). Fixing to the base can be done in two ways:

By welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable version).

Fixing by means of a bolt. In this case, a sleeve corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and a thread must be cut for the bolt. This option makes the structure collapsible, less overall and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for mounting the disc.It is intended for installation, external inspection of the damaged wheel and its final dismantling after dismantling.

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching the hinge under the lever. It is welded to the rack tightly, the loop itself can be fastened with screws through drilled holes with a thread (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of joining parts is more reliable and simpler.

Designed to remove the tire rim from the disc.

The diagram shows the hinge principle of connecting the lever with the riser... He gives the ability to effectively press on the tire and tear its edge off the disc.

The dimensions shown in the drawing are indicative only. The main thing is that the overall proportion is observed.

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. Removable extension cord. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides more pressing power.

Support for the tire rim (paw). It is made from the same 50x25 mm rectangular profile as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the other is flattened and ground with emery to a round shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressed with the paw.

When choosing a material for the machine, one should take into account the heavy loads on all structural elements. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted over with a stable oil emulsion.

Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is mounted on a washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and disc.

- the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

- an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

- the paw is directed to the joint between the tire and the disc;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is carried out sequentially along the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the disc.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is carried out already at the flange of the vertical column using a simple mount. It is better if it is long enough to easily remove the tire from the rim.

What is important to consider at this stage:

The geometry of the rim must not be disturbed in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tires. Small dents on stamped discs can be adjusted with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disc must be replaced. Due to the brittleness of the metal, damaged alloy wheels do not straighten and always change.

It reduces the friction between rubber and metal during assembly. A thin layer of lithol or a soap solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not in any way affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This mounting defect can be easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer while inflating the wheel on the machine. As a last resort, you can use special sealing tourniquets and gels (they are sold in all car stores).

From all of the above, a simple conclusion suggests itself: a tire changer is easy to make yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, it will be needed for the purchase of material and the manufacture of equipment. This requires only skillful hands and desire.

Time and money will become a reward for your labor feat. So you will save them for sure!

Automotive service is a responsible event, requiring high-quality equipment and trained personnel undergoing retraining and additional training in order to keep pace with the times, applying new methods of diagnosing and troubleshooting all systems of a vehicle received for maintenance. One of the key elements of the technical equipment is the equipment for tire fitting.

Tire fitting equipment for the provision of high-quality service for the replacement, repair of car tires must function in good working order. The most common reason for the failure of a tire changer machine is a lack of proper maintenance and respect.

It is necessary to monitor the oil level in the air preparation unit, while draining the condensate. Fill in only a special oil, which, due to its volatility, provides lubrication of the rubbing elements of the stand throughout the entire volume. Following these simple rules for the maintenance of equipment will avoid calling a professional repairman.

Consider the most common malfunctions of tire repair machines.

• Failure of the squeezing cylinder. Most often it occurs due to corrosion, which is caused by a lack of lubrication, and the ingress of moisture along with air. The cylinder changes both as a whole and element by element. In the event that the end part of the cylinder is made of a silumin alloy, there are frequent cases of its destruction at the points of attachment to the machine.

• Breakage of the under-table distributor. In some cases, destruction occurs due to increased wear of the gearbox, in others - due to natural wear of the rubbing elements.

• Gearbox malfunction is one of the biggest, but not the most common problems of a tire changer due to the high cost of the part. Caused by lack of lubrication, off-design loads, or long service life.

• Engine malfunction. Motors powered by 220V are more susceptible to this problem. This is caused by the presence of additional elements - capacitors, reduced mains voltage, increased load in the gearbox, failure of the reversing switch.

• Breakage of the under-table cylinders leads to a weak clamping of the wheel in the cams, which during work can damage the disc. As a rule, this is due to the wear of the pistons of the cylinders and the passage of air pressure.

• Malfunction of the pedal assembly is most often expressed in mechanical damage to the pedals, loss of tightness of the five-way valves. Five-way valves can be repaired (we have repair kits on sale), but it must be borne in mind that this measure is temporary, and after replacing some valve elements, it will not last the same period as a new one. It is advisable to have a five-way valve repair kit in a tire repair shop for prompt repair, so as not to lose customers due to equipment downtime.

In addition to the faults listed above, mounting heads, cams, cam plates, fittings, motor and gear pulleys, reversing switches (phase switches) and other items are frequently damaged. Almost all spare parts for the most popular tire changers are available in our store, others are available to order. We remind you that we have our own metalworking workshop, which allows us to manufacture many parts in the shortest possible time. We also offer to carry out not only field, but also overhaul of equipment in our areas. Work carried out in stationary conditions is preferable in case of revealing serious damage in the operation of the machine.

If you have a rare model of a tire changer and there are practically no spare parts for it, it doesn’t matter either. We adapt standard parts for your booth. It is possible to install reversing phase switches, electric motors, squeeze and under-table cylinders, mounting heads and some other spare parts.

Tire changers are intended for removal and subsequent installation of a car tire on a disk. Such equipment is successfully used at service stations, car services and other motor transport enterprises in the process of repair and seasonal re-equipment of cars. The main characteristics of tire fitting stands are the maximum wheel diameter and width, as well as air pressure.When purchasing this equipment, you should also pay attention to the availability of auxiliary equipment that ensures the installation of low-profile tires (“third hand” device). Tire changers of domestic and foreign manufacturers are presented on the Russian market. But even the most reliable models of this equipment fail sooner or later.

The main malfunctions of tire changers arise due to untimely oil supply to the air preparation unit. This leads to premature wear of the rubber seals, which in turn contributes to unstable machine operation. This does not provide a complete clamping of the disc. The further chain of faults depends on the design features of the equipment and its operating conditions. To prevent the need for repairs on the tire changer, it is possible to carry out regular maintenance, in particular to check that the correct amount of oil is present. The key to a well-performed repair is the obligatory diagnosis of malfunctions. For this, specialized equipment is used and experienced specialists are involved.

To restore the functionality of the tire fitting stands, the following units can be repaired:

control systems;
pneumatic cylinders;
rotary table;
main pneumatic cylinder.

After the repair is completed, the oil is changed and the system pressure is adjusted, as well as the calibration and commissioning of tire changers. Ensuring the high quality of the operations performed allows strict compliance with the manufacturer's requirements, as well as the use of original spare parts and consumables.

You can buy tire changers and other equipment by calling SDT LLC by phones: +7 (499) 265-56-79, +7 (499) 261-22-78.

Specialized forum for car service and tire equipment

Tavros 24.06.2013, 15:55

A few days ago, a shell-shocked Trommelberg machine was brought to the service. According to the owner of the device, on the table of a car tire fitting, they “inflated” a wheel from a tractor (rear or front - it was not possible to find out

). As a result, somehow, the camera burst, the wheel flew up to the ceiling, destroyed it, and then safely landed back on the tire fitting, severely deforming it.

In our climate, the main load on tire fitting equipment falls on spring and autumn. For this reason, the advisability of preliminary maintenance takes place. The turnover of a tire service station per season averages 15 thousand rubles per working day. It is not difficult to calculate that one hour of downtime averages 1,250 rubles.Competent maintenance will reduce the risks of breakdowns and financial losses at the time of peak use, since we will take an action to identify and eliminate possible malfunctions and impending breakdowns.

Maintenance checklist:

Removing water from the filter lubricator;
Checking the presence and level of oil in the lubricator;
Checking the efficiency of the lubricator;
If the machine is equipped with a receiver of the "explosive" pumping system, removal of water condensate from the receiver;
Cleaning the vertical hex rod with liquid, non-flammable detergent. Grease;
Wiping the turntable with liquid, non-flammable detergent, drying and oiling the sliding surface of the chuck jaws;
Cleaning the teeth of the clamps with a wire brush, checking the condition of the plastic protective pads and replacing them in a timely manner, if necessary;
Washing all plastic parts with cold water and soap or a mild chemical detergent;
Lubrication of air cylinder rods;
Checking the tension of the drive belt;
Checking the spatial position of the mounting head relative to the 14.15-inch disk and tightening its countersunk screws. If necessary, adjustment of the uniformity of the arc gap;
Checking the condition of internal pneumatic lines and pedal actuators;
Removing (if necessary) drops of oil coming out of the breathers together with the exhaust air. Adjustment of lubricators in case of excessive oil release;
Checking the inside of the case for moisture.

Price list for work with a tire changer

Those who are less busy with their professional activities, who have free time, try to make various fixtures and fittings for carrying out repairs with their own hands. These are, for example, pullers, a tire changer, an overpass or even a do-it-yourself go-kart. In order to make a homemade tire changer, you will need a desire, a diagram and drawings, and materials and tools.

You can make a homemade tire changer with your own hands, even on the road. Not many tools are required for this:

mounting blades (2 pieces);
steel corner and percussion tool (sledgehammer, semi-sledgehammer);
jack;
tow rope.

Loosen the wheel bolts.
Install on a jack.
Remove the wheel and clean it from dirt.
Bleed the air from the wheel and place it with the nipple facing up.
Pass the tug cable through the central hole in the disc.
Place the base of the jack on the rubber (as close as possible to the rim of the disc). If the wheel is a chamber wheel, then you cannot put the jack in front of the nipple (fitting).
Put the cable on the part of the jack, which is designed to be lifted by a special rigid ribbed place on the bottom of the car.
Tie the ends of the rope.
Start tensioning the cable. To do this, we rotate the handle of the mechanical jack. At the same time, the base of the jack should push the rubber, lowering the tire seat down.
As soon as the tire has moved away from the disc, remove the cable and proceed to replacing the camera.
With two monteractors, throw one side of the rubber over the rim of the disc.
Carefully push in the nipple (nipple) and pull out the camera.
Next, unscrew the nipple from the fitting and expel the remaining air.
We begin the installation of the new camera by pushing the fitting into the hole. We put the camera in the tire without kinks or kinks.
To increase safety, that is, so as not to damage a new or repaired camera, it must be slightly pumped up without screwing in the nipple.
We make the tire flanging with two assemblies.
We screw the nipple into the fitting and pump up the wheel.
Installing the wheel.

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With your own hands, you can make many different devices for carrying out repair work and for convenience, for example, a do-it-yourself armrest can be made of plywood or metal, folding or fixed.

Every driver should have such skills for repairing wheels on the road. But, it would be better to have your own machine for dismantling and mounting tires in the garage. A new factory machine is expensive, but you can make a homemade one yourself. Having a machine, you don't have to go to a tire changer every six months to rearrange tires.

Homemade tire changer kit consists of 2 parts:

machine for removing and installing tires;
beating device.

Rectangular metal pipe.
2 "(2") round tube, 50 cm long.
Rectangular triangular steel sheets 5 mm thick.
Round pipes for beating.
Old hub or matching flange.
Welding machine, mask and electrodes.

Every six months, drivers change their tires from summer to winter, and vice versa. But not many people know how to properly store rubber in summer and winter, with or without discs.

We cut rectangular steel pipes. It is necessary to make a pipe 90 cm long (1 piece) and 60 cm long (2 pieces).
We weld the base of rectangular pipes so that the letter H is obtained. We measure the distance from the end of the pipe of one side of the letter H to the middle of the letter N. We cut the same pipes with a grinder and strengthen the structure (these are stiffeners).
At a distance of about 30 from the edge of the pipe (which is 90 cm), we weld a vertically round two-inch pipe. For this we use the building level.
We weld triangular plates (5 mm thick) to reinforce the vertical pipe.
We take the old hub. It will need to be put on a round pipe and welded. It will support the wheel.Depending on the height of the person who will work on this self-made machine for tires, we weld the hub so that the wheel that sits on this hub is waist-high.
A two-inch pipe must be at least 30 cm higher than the installed wheel. But you do not need to make pipes too high.
Below, by 20 centimeters, it is necessary to weld a thick plate and make holes in it for bolting the rubber beating device.
Below, in the photo, a device for breaking tires is well shown. To make it, you need to take a pipe with a larger diameter so that a long lever can be inserted into it.
The lever for installing the tire can be made from a metal round pipe, 50 cm long. The tips for it are made from a rod with a diameter of 20 mm.Choose the length of the lever yourself. If there is not enough space in the garage, then it is better not to do a long one. But with a short one, more effort will be required. Round tips can be made using a grinder with a grinding wheel.
In total, you should get such a homemade tire changer:

The procedure for dismantling the tire:

Clean the wheel from dirt.
Unscrew the nipple.
Place a rubber mat where the wheel will be placed so as not to scratch the disc.
Raise the paw of the tire protector and place its base on the rubber without touching the rim.
It is necessary to lubricate the rubber seat with soapy water.
Insert the lever (amplifier) into the baffle tube.
Now you need to push the lever. Walk around the perimeter of the wheel.
Then we turn the wheel over and also separate the disc from the tire.
After that, you need to put the wheel on the pipe and bolt it to the hub.
Raise the tire seat with the assembly tool and insert the straight tip of the lever under it.
Lubricate the tip of the lever, rim and board with soapy water.
Next, rest the lever on the pipe above the wheel and pull towards you. The bead of the tire will be dismantled during this action.
Remove the tube from the tire.
Slide the assembly under the second cord and pull the other side towards you. The tire is removed.

Before installing the tire, you need to lubricate its seat, as well as the mounting and the tip of the lever.
As far as possible, dress the seat on the disk.
Next, you need to insert the tip of the mounting lever on the side of the tire that is already wound inside the disc.The ball of the tip should rest against the disc, and the seating edge should be in the middle of the tip.
Then, rest the lever against the tube on the wheel and pull the lever towards you. The middle of the mounting tip will slide the tire bead onto the wheel rim.
One side of the bead after these steps should already be put on the disc. After that we lubricate the second side and also put the tire cord inside.
After the top side of the tire has also gone over the edge of the rim, the wheel can be inflated.

The tire is easier to put on if the angle between the welded tip and the lever is less.

But, there is a downside, if the angle is too small, then the lever, when the tire is bored, will touch the disc and peel off the paint from it.

For the convenience of work, a hand-made manual tire changer must be heavy. In our case, using these pipes, the machine turned out to be light. Therefore, so that it does not rotate during operation, it is necessary to attach it to the floor. If it is made of wood, then with ordinary wood screws. If it is concrete, then after drilling with a hammer drill, insert the anchor bolts and tighten, or use a self-tapping dowel (dowel nails).

To facilitate the work and in order not to spoil the rubber and the rim of the disc, it is necessary to lubricate the tip of the lever, the seat of the tire and the rim of the disc with a thick soapy solution. Before that, the wheel must be washed.

If the holes for fixing the disc do not coincide with the holes of the welded hub or flange, an adapter must be made so that you can mount and dismantle discs of different diameters and fastenings.

This video shows a homemade manual tire changer made in two days.

This video shows how the Americans made such a machine.

The machine is screwed to the floor with large self-tapping screws, otherwise it runs on the floor and you have to hold it with your foot.
If you lubricate the very mantazhku and rubber with soap, then everything is very easily removed. so that the disc is not scratched when beating the sides, you can put the rug on the floor.

If you work carefully, the disc does not scratch, it can only be scratched during the inflation process, and to prevent this, a rubber hose of a suitable diameter can be put on the working surface of the instrument, lubricated with soap. Or open the disc from the wrong side. This is more difficult, but impossible on wide discs, it works in some cases.
Stamped discs can be opened and shod without fear, they have a bent side, the tool rides along it without touching the disc there is nowhere else.

The machine can be made for different types of bolt patterns, including universal. If you make adapters with studs for different disks. Mine works with 4x98 and 4x100 discs. I do the balancing at the service station separately, it costs less than the entire bulkhead as a whole.

The tips are machined from a 20 mm rod. The rod itself was clamped in a yew and shaped with a cleaning wheel, then ground with a flap and welded to the pipe.

The photo shows the dimensions of the flanging tool.

Note! Corner "A" should be made sharper than mine. The sharper it is, the easier it is to refuel the rubber back. But do not overdo it, there should still be space between the tool tube and the disc so that it does not touch the rim. It is advisable to make this end of the tool smaller. It is more convenient to work with a small one. Rods turned from a rod by 20 mm.