DIY repair school laying laminate flooring

In detail: do-it-yourself repair school laying laminate flooring from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Laminate is currently one of the most common floor coverings. This is because laminate flooring has several advantages. This floor covering is characterized by increased resistance to mechanical stress and abrasion, resistance to the effects of household chemicals during its processing, it is distinguished by non-flammability, high hygiene, as well as good thermal conductivity. It is also so easy to install that you can lay it yourself.

Before proceeding with the installation of laminate flooring, it is necessary to properly prepare the base. Old coverings (eg carpets) must be removed from the substrate. It must be dry, free from various dirt and debris, strong and even. Read here about installing a wooden floor.

If the surface is still uneven, then it must be putty or surface defects sanded. Here's a complete overview of how to level your floor under your laminate flooring.

It is necessary to accurately calculate the amount of material required for the room.

Before laying laminate it is recommended to withstand for 48 hours in the same room where it will be laid.
Temperature room air should not be less than 18 ° С, relative humidity above 70%.

There is no need to unpack the laminate, all packs of material must remain sealed. This is done so that the material has the ability to adapt to the conditions where it will subsequently be used.

Laying laminate flooring is done so that the light from the windows falls parallel to its seams. Thus, the seams between the laminate boards will not be very noticeable. The laminate is placed on the base in a floating way.

Video (click to play).

The next thing to pay attention to is that all laminate packages must be intact, not opened. And the panels should not be damaged in any way. If you find a defect in the laminate during the installation process, stop installing it and issue a return to the seller.

If the laminate flooring is to be laid on a concrete base, a vapor barrier must be installed first. This is done so that the concrete screed will give its moisture to the floor covering.

They protect the laminate from residual moisture from the concrete. After that, the soundproofing substrate is covered.

Foamed polyethylene can also be used for sound insulation. The best option is a cork underlay that can even out small unevenness in the subfloor. She copes remarkably well with heat and sound insulation. It also absorbs due to its composition, which includes synthetic rubber and granular cork. Sound-absorbing cork backing significantly increases the life of the laminate.

Laminate must be started from one of the walls. Initially, we lay two panels of the first row. They must be laid at a certain distance from the wall, which must be at least 10 mm. To maintain this distance, we use pre-prepared spacer wedges. This gap is needed in order for the laminate to expand freely. Otherwise, it may warp during expansion.

After the first row of laminate boards is laid, we begin to lay the next row. The second row begins to fit into half-planks, by analogy with brickwork, which is placed in half a brick. This technology gives the flooring rigidity and strength. The panels should be laid in the direction of the sun's rays.

Cut lines are drawn using a 90 ° angle. It is better to use a table saw for cutting, but you can also use a hand circular saw. When laying the panels, it is important to make sure that the edge of the cut "looks" at the wall, in this case the groove and the ridge will most closely adhere to each other.

Connecting laminate boards of the first and second row in practice, it looks like this: we apply the board of the second row to the lying first row at an angle, then we connect them and snap into place with a lock. At first, you do not need to snap the ends of the boards of the first and second rows. We need to try them on to each other. And after laying the second board of the second row, you need to dock and knock out all four boards. This design will be a kind of basis for the further laying of the coating. In the same way, we carry out the laying of others next to each other. Do not touch the spacer wedges, they are in place.

When installing laminate panels, you can use a special sealant, which will protect you from possible floor creaking in the future. The sealant is applied before the locks are snapped in. After the panels are connected, excess sealant will come to the surface. They need to be removed with a soft cloth.

If in the future it becomes necessary to dismantle the floor, the sealant will not have any effect on this.

To lay the last panels in each of the rows, you need to use a special clamp, which is made of steel strip and bent in such a way that one end of it could be behind the end of the board, and on the opposite it would be convenient to hit with a hammer. The shape of the bend of such a tool resembles the letter S. The spacer wedges that we inserted to maintain gaps against the walls are removed only after all the work on laying the laminate is completed.

Although a floor covering such as laminate has appeared on the modern market relatively recently, most manufacturers offer a variety of types, and are constantly working to improve such important characteristics as durability and moisture resistance.Many video tutorials on installing laminate flooring help you prepare for the entire process in the most thorough way. So today you can easily learn how to mount such a coating on a plank floor, logs, linoleum or concrete screed. Can it be laid on tiles? If its surface is flat and meets the basic installation requirements, then this option is possible. Even if there are any minor inaccuracies in the subfloor, they can be eliminated with an insulating layer.When it comes to carpeting, remember that it is not a good base. Why? The pile of the carpet can bend under this load. Then the interlocks on the topcoat will break. Although, many argue that dense carpets are suitable, in each case, the manufacturer's recommendations must be taken into account. A useful article on how to lay your own laminate diagonally. Image - DIY repair school laying laminate flooring

What's happened laminate class? This is a class of service, which is determined by its durability. This characteristic shows how long the coating will be able to maintain its functional performance and excellent appearance.

According to European standards, this material can be divided into two groups: for home and commercial use:

21 - for the moderate living area (bedroom);
22 - for a normal living area (living room);
23 - for a high residential area (passer-by);
31 - for the moderate industrial sector (small offices);
32 - for the normal industrial sector (hotels);
33 - for the high industrial sphere (sports hall, restaurant, dance floor).

Installation Tool Kit:

a hacksaw with fine teeth;
jigsaw;
clamp for tapping in hard-to-reach places;
a wooden or rubber hammer;
small bar;
pencil;
ruler;
roulette;
spacer wedges.

Before starting the installation of the laminate, it is necessary to properly prepare the rough base for the topcoat. Since the material can be put on almost any basis, then in each individual case, you must follow your own rules.

Start by checking the floor for unevenness. For this, it is better to use a level. The permissible differences in height for 2 m in length are from 2 to 3 mm. Even such seemingly minor defects must be eliminated if you want the topcoat to last for more than one year.

On the screed. If during the inspection you find unevenness in the concrete base, level it using self-leveling mixtures, having previously putty all chips and cracks.
On linoleum / tiles. In this case, it is possible to lay the laminated flooring only when the rough base is absolutely flat and well attached.
On the plank floor. This is one of the most popular mounting options. All minor irregularities in the flooring process are eliminated with a grinder. Larger ones - with the help of an electric planer. In this case, it is necessary to remove all staples and nails so as not to damage the instrument.

Whichever surface you are covering, it can be leveled with chipboard panels. A huge plus of this option is that the slabs will make the floor warmer. If you are thinking about a floor heating system, then it is better to refuse the use of chipboard, because the material itself delays the flow of heat to the coating. A very useful article - how to repair a laminate floor?

This is one of the stages of proper foundation preparation. First, you need to empty the room of furniture, get rid of dust and debris. Remember that even small particles caught under the topcoat can cause creaking and deformation of individual elements or the entire canvas.

In this case, it does not really matter whether to lay the material along or across. It is important that all seams are securely glued with masking tape. In order to avoid bending of the sheets, it is better to join the seams with a gap of 5 mm. You can learn more about the whole process from the video tutorial on laying laminate flooring.

After installing the topcoat, it is very important to pay special attention to the installation of the skirting boards. In this case, there is no anchorage to the floor. Along the entire perimeter, this decorative element is attached to the wall.

Today there are many different mounting options, so you can always choose the perfect one for yourself. Remember that the skirting board always follows the contours of the walls. Therefore, if they do not differ in evenness, use a plastic skirting board, since a wooden one is an option for perfectly flat surfaces. This way you can avoid the formation of gaps, which will spoil the appearance of the entire canvas. If you buy special decorative elements with the possibility of laying wires under them, fix them in special grooves. Learn more about installing skirting boards.

Know, how to lay laminate and fixing the plinth is half the battle. It is very important to know the top rules for caring:

When moving heavy furniture, lift it up.
Install protective pads on furniture legs.
All furniture casters must be of the W (soft) type.
When cleaning, use a small amount of water and abrasive substances.
Avoid sanding and waxing.
Use the care products recommended by the manufacturer.

Last but not least, when you buy laminate flooring, be sure to check all the packaging. Make sure they are intact and that the boards are not damaged. Even items with minor defects cannot be used.

If you have any questions or individual nuances that you would like to clarify, watch the video tutorials on installing laminate flooring. Then all indecision and worries will disappear.

Video tutorial, do-it-yourself laminate installation.

Laminate is one of the most popular floor coverings, comparing favorably with other types of speed and ease of installation. It consists of sheets with a thickness of 6-11 mm and a width of about 20 cm. The construction of the laminate is multilayer. It includes a top layer, which is a wear-resistant film, a paper layer with a variety of applied textures and colors, a high-density fiberboard layer treated with moisture-resistant impregnations, and a finishing layer consisting of resin-impregnated paper. It should be noted that laying the laminate with your own hands is a fairly simple process that does not require special skills.

To carry out the installation of the laminate, you must prepare the following tools and materials:

Laminate;
Laminate underlay;
Jigsaw or miter saw;
Roulette;
Square;
Light hammer;
Level;
Masking tape;
Limiters;
Knife.

How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands? A thorough answer to such a question must begin with coverage of the preparatory stage preceding the implementation of the main work. The purchased laminate should be kept at room temperature for several days, preferably at least two. This will allow the material to adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room in which it will be laid.

One of the main conditions for ensuring high-quality laminate flooring is a carefully leveled surface. Carefully measure the level over the entire surface area, especially in the corners. The maximum permissible unevenness is 1-2 mm deviations from the level for 2 m of the base; a two-meter level is used to determine it.

We recommend that you read the article on how to properly lay the laminate along or across the apartment yourself.

If the laminate is laid on a concrete screed, then a plastic wrap should be laid, which serves to protect the flooring from the moisture that forms on the base. The next layer is to put a substrate that acts as sound absorption, and then the laminate.

The foil is spread on the side from which the flooring will be laid. Its ends are folded onto the wall, and the strips of polyethylene film are overlapped by 20 cm. You can fasten the strips of the moisture-proof coating with masking tape or foam, which will provide more reliable protection of the laminate and prevent the strips from sliding. No insulation is required when installing this flooring on a wooden base.

First you need to choose the correct direction for laying the flooring. If all windows in the room are located on the same side, then it is best to carry out straight installation along the direction of the incident light. If the laying is done across the sun's rays, the joints of the panels will be more noticeable. If you want your flooring to have a neat and attractive appearance, then this should be avoided.

Depending on the method of joining, a lock (glueless) and adhesive laminate are distinguished. In addition, the lock is subdivided into 2 types, differing in the snapping system. The first type includes collapsible locks ("Click" -locks), and the second - latches ("Lock" -locks). The type of connection affects the installation technology of the laminate. "Click" -locks are characterized by high bond strength and a low percentage of damaged panels during installation. Laminate with "Lock" -locks differs in more affordable prices, but has a lower quality of connection of the covering panels.

Laminate with Click locks

Laminate with Lock locks

First of all, we will focus on the installation of the floor covering with "Click" -locks. A more accurate idea of how to lay a laminate with your own hands - a video excursion allows you to get.

Let's dwell on the main points of the technology used when laying.At the first stage, you should use a tape measure to measure the width of the room and make calculations to determine the width of the last row of panels, which will be laid out near the wall. If its value is less than 5 cm, the panels that will be located in the first and also the last row should be cut in such a way as to achieve the same width.

In addition, you must remember to leave gaps from each of the walls of about 10 mm.

Laying laminate flooring is done with the long side of the panel, usually along the room in the direction of daylight. As noted above, spacer wedges with a thickness of about 10 mm are installed, which will then be the required gap. After carrying out all the work, they will need to be removed. The presence of gaps is a must, because otherwise, with thermal expansion, the laminate may "stand on end".

The very first laminate panel is laid in the left corner of the room. Then the next panel is inserted to it at a thirty-degree angle from the end side with a groove and snapped by pressing the laminate to the floor. The procedure is repeated until the end of the wall.

Laminate panels with "Click" locks

But in order to evenly distribute the pressure exerted on the flooring, it is necessary to arrange the laminate panels in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, they are displaced when laying the next row up to 30-40 centimeters or more relative to the first row. The panels of the second row are docked with each other in the same way as the previous one, and then the rows are joined together. The laminate of the second row must be raised above the floor at a thirty-degree angle and inserted into the comb of the laid first row, snapped by pressing to the floor.

Connection of rows when laying laminate with "Click" -locks

In addition, the laying of the second row can be started by joining the long sides of the laminate, and only then connecting the end parts using a light hammer. To carry out the work neatly and not damage the panel, it is better to attach a block to it.

All subsequent rows are laid in the same way according to the chosen method.

When laying laminate with "Lock" -locks, the spike of the first panel is placed in the groove on the other panel. When carrying out this manipulation, both panels should lie on a horizontal plane. Next, we knock them out with a bar or hammer. The entire first row of laminate is laid in a similar way.

Laminate panels with "Lock" -locks

When laying the next (second) row, do not forget about the displacement of the panels in order to achieve a checkerboard pattern. We connect the first panel of the second row of flooring with the previous row, inserting it with a spike into the groove, and then gently tap it. The next panel of the second row is first aligned with the first row, slightly retreating from the end side, and then, using knocking, we attach the second panel of the laminate to the first in this row.

Joining rows when laying laminate with "Lock" -locks, it is unacceptable to join the panels with a hammer without a special intermediate bar

We examined how to lay the laminate with our own hands in a glueless way. But, there is also an adhesive method. It is notable for the complexity of installation, additional costs for glue and requires certain skills when applying it. Currently, this method is almost never used.

Of course, this method allows you to extend the life of the flooring due to reliable protection against moisture ingress. The adhesive laminate cannot be disassembled as the panels will bond very tightly to each other.

Compliance with all the recommendations for laying the laminate will allow you to get a beautiful and durable flooring. It is also possible to lay the laminate diagonally for an interesting and beautiful pattern. Below we will take a look at how such a laminate is laid with our own hands - a video instruction on how to perform the work will help us with this.

Before installing the laminate, the floor needs to be leveled, for example screed. A screed for a laminated floor can have gaps of no more than 3 mm, when laying a two-meter rail. Unevenness in the floor under the batten with a depth of more than 3 mm must be sanded or puttyed.

Tools and materials for laying laminate flooring:

- Polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick (acts as a vapor barrier);
- Noise-insulating underlay (underlay 2 mm thick);
- Spacer wedges;
- Saw (it is better and more convenient to use a jigsaw);
- Pencil, ruler;
- Glue for fixing pieces of laminate at heating pipes (with a lock method of connection);
- Hammer;
- Wooden block (it is fashionable to use a piece of cut laminate board);
- Tightening rod.

The required amount is calculated based on the fact that in one box of laminate boards for 2 square meters. After purchase, the material should be left indoors in boxes for a day or two, so that the panels get used to the new temperature regime.

When installing a laminated floor, the temperature in the room should be at least +18 degrees. Substrate temperature - not lower than +15. And no more than 70% relative humidity in the room. Do not nail or glue laminate flooring as it is a "floating" floor.

A polyethylene film is spread on the floor with at least 200 mm overlap of strips. The film should go over the walls. Then the soundproofing substrate is laid out. The direction of laying (rolling) must coincide with the direction of laying the laminated panels. If the length and width of the room is more than 8 m, when laying the floor, it is necessary to leave expansion gaps of approximately 2 cm.

Immediately before starting to lay the laminate with your own hands on the floor, it is necessary to calculate the width of the final row of panels, it should not be less than 50 mm. If this does not work, then the first panel is also cut to the width. The distance between the first and the last panel from the wall should be within 10 mm - 15 mm. To fix the distance from the wall to the panel, wedges of a fixed thickness are used (small pieces of laminate can be used). Wedges are stacked 2 pcs. on one panel. After the entire floor has been laid, the wedges are removed. The gaps are closed with a plinth. The skirting boards are fixed to the wall with dowels or plugs.

It is necessary to install the panels in a strict sequence, with each subsequent even row starting from half of the panel, so the panels are fastened more reliably, and the floor will "walk" less. Laminate panels are joined with a tongue and groove. Fit the panels with a block of wood and a hammer. Laminate is glued near the heating pipes.

Now take a look at the unusual technology of laminate laying from the SuperStroy specialists.

The choice of laminate. Instructions from the Decora company

An article on how to choose a high-quality coating and a substrate for it is illuminated by Decora

Once in front of me, too, quite unexpectedly, there was a question of which laminate to choose when buying. Although at first everything was cloudless. I came to the store and, as they say, my eyes fled. "Black caviar, red caviar, overseas eggplant caviar." Topic: Laying laminate flooring with your own hands How to care. Instructions from Dekora Ask any question of interest Laminate was much more. Various colors, [...]

DIY laminate flooring. How to lay, laying technology

Laying laminate flooring with your own hands. How to lay, tips, tricks, practical experience

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Posted on: January 17th, 2013 | Updated: May 29, 2017 | Views: 4954 | _title> ”> School of renovation

Good day, dear users of our project. This article will help you understand the technological process of laying laminate flooring. After reviewing the content of the article, you can easily lay the laminate with your own hands without the involvement of professional help, thereby saving your money.

Initially, I would like to say about, directly, the laminate itself. This type of flooring has gained its wide popularity. It has many advantages over other types of floors and even competes with such a classic look as parquet, with which, by the way, laminate is often confused.

Before telling you about its main useful qualities, I suggest that you briefly familiarize yourself with its structure.

The basis of the so-called laminated board, although in its essence it is not, is a board of pressed wood fibers, which in abbreviation is called fiberboard. On the underside of this board is a layer of durable, moisture-proof paper, which prevents moisture from entering the fiberboard, thereby preventing it from swelling and collapsing. On top of the fibreboard there is also a layer of waterproofing, represented by a special film. On top of the film is a layer of decorative paper: the one that creates an imitation of the texture of a tree. By the way, this is why laminate flooring should be distinguished as a separate type of coating, without attaching it to the types of parquet, since in its color it can be of absolutely any color, even like granite or marble. A layer of a special resin is laid on the decorative paper and a laminate is already on top (hence the name "laminate"). All layers are pressed together.

Having disassembled the structure of the laminate and relying on it, we can highlight the main advantages:

The laminate cover is very durable;
This type of flooring is much cheaper than parquet, the texture of which it can repeat.
It is easy to install and dismantle, and most importantly, it can be done quickly.

However, laminate flooring has the following disadvantages:

Not suitable for repair;
Relatively short service life;
Poorly tolerates exposure to moisture.

Now that we have an idea of what a laminate is and what it is made of, we can begin to study the process of assembling it.

Step 1. Work should begin with the preparation of the foundation. We immediately determine its appearance: if it is wooden, we will try to align everything with plywood. If, nevertheless, the base is concrete, it is best to level it with a special dry building mixture: self-leveling. To determine whether the floor is flat or not, you should use a level. At the same time, you should try to use the level as long as possible in order to get more accurate, correct measurements. If a mistake is made at this stage, a squeak of the floor may appear in the future, even taking into account the fact that the substrate will be applied.

Step 2. After removing dust, dirt and foreign objects from the surface of the base, proceed to laying the substrate. It plays the role of a shock-absorbing material, compensating for the slightest unevenness in the floor, thereby ensuring that there is no squeak and vibration when walking on the finished floor in the future. When laying, simply spread it over the entire floor surface. The underlay must be completely flattened and there must be no cuts or holes on its surface!

Step 3. We proceed to the direct laying of the laminate. It is important that before this, the laminate to be laid has been in a room with room temperature for at least two days. This need is due to the peculiarities of the behavior of the tree under climatic influences. The best way is to direct the seams of the laminate board joint so that they follow the rays of sunlight from the window. In this case, they will not be so noticeable. Laminate boards are connected using a glue or lock method. Of course, it is best to use a lock: it is simpler and more reliable. With this method, one board is inserted with its spikes into the groove of the other and, with a sharp downward movement, snaps into place, tightly connecting to it. When laying, you should make small indents from the walls, about 1-1.5 cm. This is done so that during the seasonal swelling or contraction, your floor does not become unusable. In the future, these indents will be hidden under the plinth installed around the entire perimeter of the room. This indent will help to make ordinary wooden wedges. If during the installation process you have places where, say, a pipe passes, etc., do not be afraid to use a jigsaw. In the future, such places can be closed with special plastic elements.

In general, everything. The technology is not complicated, the main thing is just not to forget to pay attention to the little things.

An important tip: use dry adhesives for glued bonding. Do not under any circumstances fix your parquet on PVA, etc. glue, as otherwise your floor will swell and have to be dismantled and replaced. As I said, laminate flooring cannot be repaired!

Floor covering - imitation board

Materials and tools that will be needed for laying the laminate: tape measure, hammer, pencil, jigsaw. And also, be patient and time.

Before you start laying the laminate, you need to take care of the base on which the finishing material will be applied. The best option is panels of many layers, which are reinforced with four locking systems. These devices significantly optimize the work process and speed it up. For the system to function well, these panels must be properly installed.

Clean the floor of debris and linoleum residues

If the master violates the technology and does not maintain the correct height of the "reliefs", then soon the base may deform and the locks may break. As a result, cracks are formed in which dirt and dust can accumulate. The appearance of the floor will deteriorate every year.

Suppose that in some places the slope of the subfloor does not exceed 4 mm per 2 square meters. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture here. If you do this, it will not stand stable, even if there is good support in the form of 4 legs.And the doors may not close well over time. So that the technology of laying the laminate is not violated, it is necessary to level the entire floor. This process must be subject to certain building rules and regulations - technical regulations. This approach guarantees a long service life of the floor.

If a concrete base is available, then it must be repaired, all cracks and defects must be removed using a solution of sand and cement. Large parts of the separated pieces of the base are removed, and the empty spaces are filled with a special building mixture.

Preliminary preparation of the floor

When all the repaired defects freeze, final work should be carried out - apply a finishing agent that will tighten the entire floor. After that, the fresh screed is primed so that the remaining sand does not creak under the final finishing of the floor. As for the wooden floor, its restoration is carried out in this way - all unusable parts are replaced with new ones from the same material. After that, the formed flooring is leveled with a grinding device, as a result, all fasteners are buried in the middle of the material. Since it is not difficult to prepare the floor for laying laminate flooring, you still need to take this step seriously. Even if there is old linoleum or tiles under it. They should be washed, dirt and dust removed.

It is imperative to lay a substrate under the laminate.

The owner, who decides to lay the laminate on his own, should pay attention to the underlay and the floor insulation layer. In the modern construction industry, several materials are created that are part of the decoration. These can be components made of paper impregnated with special substances, from coniferous wood, which are produced by pressing. Therefore, they are sensitive to moisture and other aggressive environmental influences. Thus, the master needs to remember that there must be a layer between the laminate and the base of the floor, which can prevent the accumulation of moisture.

Installation of laminate flooring includes several stages.

At the moment, there are various types of substrates. But the best option is polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns or a diffuse membrane. Only a concrete floor requires such protection. If the laminate will be laid on wood, parquet, plywood, etc., then the substrate will not be needed at all. It should be noted that the types of cement bases will include - cement and sand screeds, concrete floors, which contain a large percentage of crushed stone or gravel, monolithic coatings, production slabs containing voids.

Whether this floor is old or new does not matter. After all, he and the other equally interact with moisture. Therefore, they all need insulation, which will protect the laminate from excessive emissions and deformation. The strips of material are laid with a gap of 20 cm on the previous part. After the process is completed, the visible parts of the insulating layer are covered with a skirting board.

Prepare skirting boards and corners

In accordance with the requirements of manufacturers and building regulations, the technology of laying the laminate requires the use of an insulating underlay, which plays an important role. It is able to prevent the formation of moisture, absorb sound, keep some static floating flooring, remove some defects in the old coating. Violation of these rules significantly deteriorates the quality of the laminate, and reduces its service life. Such a finish fits perfectly on linoleum, you can also use an EPPS tool, special film or composite materials. The size of the substrate is regulated by the thickness of the laminate. If it is 9 mm, then the substrate is 3 mm. Pay attention to the manufacturer's advice and read the instructions that indicate where and how these substrates are used. Laminate floors are laid behind the so-called "floating" patterns. Ie.they are by no means fixed to the walls or the base of the floor, but only connected to each other. It is important that the substrates under the floor do not attach to anything either, but lie freely on the floor. They perform their function effectively due to the weight of the upper floor layer, which presses down on the insulation.

First you need to make calculations and draw up a layout plan. For the purpose of uniform arrangement and practicality of adhesion of laminate elements, each of them is shifted in the next row, focusing on parts of the previous one. It is forbidden to form connections in the form of crosses. The top view, with proper laminate flooring, is a drawing of a brick wall with a common seam right in the middle of the tiles between the previous and subsequent rows. This is how specialists work. The home experimenter shifts this seam by the distance remaining after inserting the last tile of the previous row. This way you can save material, but lose in the strength and harmony of the pattern. Laying the laminate with your own hands using the above method was to the taste among amateurs, and, without thinking too much about the subtleties, they stubbornly continue to develop it. But at the same time, the main thing is to comply with certain requirements. When performing them, it is necessary to take into account the distance of the trim line of the plank - at least thirty centimeters. The width along the share line of the plank is more than five centimeters. The row joining line is offset by 1/3 of the length of the laminate component.

To make it easier to save all the details of the drawing, first draw a diagram corresponding to the dimensions of the room in which the laminate is being laid. In this case, it is necessary to take into account and also apply on paper all the characteristic elements of the room: a fireplace, an opening, a ledge, which change the correct geometric shapes of the room.

It should not be overlooked that the tile does not fit close to the wall, but 1 cm is left for possible deformations. Then you need to calculate the number of full planks that fit in one row and the number of trimmed ones that complement the row. We leave part of the cut off part for the next row. The side edge of the first row, in contact with the wall, is sawn off exactly along the line.

Calculate in advance how much flooring you need

The calculation of the laminate before laying according to an economical layout is carried out taking into account the edging element remaining in the previous row. It will be the first item in the next. The articulation lines of the rows are best placed parallel to the light flux emanating from the window. So they are not striking. Work begins from the corner of the room, located to the left and farthest from the entrance.

Pre-lay out the laminate

There are some points to consider before starting. Since it rarely happens that the initial row is obtained from whole tiles, there are also such cases. Then it follows from the left edge of the first tile of the next row to cut a piece by a shift distance. It is equal to half or 1/3 of the length of the whole plate. When the calculation shows that the width of the outer row is less than five centimeters, then more than the top must be cut off from the tiles of the initial row. The most optimal option is when the width of the outer rows should be the same. When there are protrusions or other architectural components in the room, the distribution of the rows is performed from their middle. You cannot do without cutting the laminate. For this, it is advisable to have an electric jigsaw with a cross blade available. A simple hacksaw cannot be used - it will damage the outer coating of the laminate. As a last resort, get a hacksaw. When using a hand jigsaw, glue the die along the cutting line with tape.

If necessary, cut slats

The method of attaching the laminate components is indicated on the building material label. Lock-locks are one way. For a tight connection, the top of the die is inserted into the groove of the previous one.The characteristic click allows you to judge the correct alignment. Another type of connection is the Click connection. With this method, the elements are mated first at a certain angle, followed by movement along the groove and again until they snap into place.

There is also a way to connect panels using glue, but it is used less and less. If the owner of the apartment decides to use this technique, then the contacting sides of the dice are covered with an astringent. The panels can be assembled by element-wise attaching each tile to the previous row and in front of the strips of its row located in front of them through the longitudinal and end sides, respectively. The option of preliminary formation of one row with its subsequent connection to the previous one is possible. The first method has to be resorted to when the work is done alone and it is problematic to direct a full row with a sufficiently long room length. But assembly in rows is most useful when there are assistants. There is one more rule. It is not advisable to tap the plates on a clean surface. To avoid damaging them, do this through the pads.