Plaster do-it-yourself apartment renovation

In detail: plaster do-it-yourself apartment renovation from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

High-quality preparation of walls for various finishing works consists in obtaining a flat, smooth surface. To do this, it is necessary to competently perform priming and puttying. Puttying is not difficult. The main thing here is to follow the procedure and be able to properly handle a construction tool. How to properly putty the walls on our own without resorting to the help of specialists, we will consider in this article.

To putty the walls yourself, prepare a minimum set of tools. What tools can't you do without?

1. A drill equipped with a special attachment - a mixer. Typically, putty is sold as a dry mix. Water is added to such a mixture in a certain proportion. Only with a special mixer can you perfectly stir the putty mixture. The output should be a homogeneous putty without lumps.

2. A set of spatulas. Be sure to choose a trowel of different sizes. In work, you will have to use both large spatulas (40-50 cm) and very small ones. Indeed, in problematic hard-to-reach places, it will not be possible to properly putty the wall with a large spatula. This is exactly what small spatulas are used for.

3. Rollers and brushes for priming walls. It is undesirable to skip the priming stage. After priming, the wall is covered with the thinnest film. This not only further increases its strength, but also provides excellent adhesion of the treated wall to any facing materials (adhesion).

4. Rule. It will be necessary in the case of uneven walls when you have to apply the putty in a thick layer. For smoothing thick layers of putty, it is convenient to use a long metal rule.

Video (click to play).

5. Spirit or laser level. Often the surface of the wall is very uneven. Before starting the starting putty, check beacons are installed using an alcohol or laser level for checking.

6. Sandpaper. If you want a beautiful surface that is pleasant to look at, use fine skins for mashing. For example, grouting with 240 sandpaper will give you the perfect finish. Use the finest sandpaper only for finishing putty. And at the stage of the starting initial putty, it is correct to rub the wall with a coarse coarse sandpaper.

7. Manual skinner. Grouting with sandpaper will become much more convenient if you use a manual skinner. This is a tool on the handle of which special clamps are installed to secure the skin.

8. And, of course, you cannot do without a container in which the putty is stirred.

A list of tools you may need to putty your walls. Photo - my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1520

Classification of putty by composition: gypsum, polymer (acrylic) and cement.

Let's consider their advantages and disadvantages.

1. Plaster putties are attractive at an inexpensive price, lend themselves well to leveling, do not shrink. The only drawback is poor moisture resistance. This alone limits the scope of their use.

2. Cement putties are distinguished by excellent moisture resistance, but have a significant drawback - a large degree of shrinkage.

3. And finally, polymer putties. Undoubted advantages: excellent moisture resistance, do not shrink at all. With the help of polymer putty, high quality of the treated wall surfaces is obtained. The only drawback is the high price.

According to their purpose, putties can be divided into starting (leveling), decorative (finishing) and universal.

1. Characteristics of leveling (starting) mixtures: high strength, excellent adhesion, large grain size. Recommended: for leveling walls after plastering. Application thickness: 3 -20 mm.

2. For high-quality performance of decorative finishing, it is advisable to apply finishing putties on the surface to be treated. With their help, you can get a perfectly smooth, even surface, hiding small flaws. The strength of the finishing putty is less than the starting one, its processing does not cause difficulties. It is applied in a small layer up to 4 mm.

3. Universal fillers combine the properties of decorative and leveling compounds. They are more expensive, although in terms of properties they are slightly inferior to the finishing and starting coatings. We recommend using it when processing walls without major flaws.

The modern market offers dry and ready-to-use putties. It is attracted by the low cost of dry putty and the possibility of its long-term storage.

It is convenient to use ready-made putties. You do not have to use a mixer to prepare a homogeneous putty mixture. This saves time and virtually no dust. But ready-made putties are much more expensive than dry ones. Please note: such putties give a lot of shrinkage. If a layer less than 2 mm thick is applied, ready-made fillers cannot be used. They also do not boast of a long shelf life. It is significantly less than dry building mixtures.

Dry in bags and ready to use in a bucket of putty.

The main thing is to make sure that the surface of the walls is absolutely clean. Be sure to remove grease, paint or grime stains. Of course, there should be no loose plaster layers, residues of scale, wax or parts of the formwork. Do not even start to putty the frozen ceiling and walls. This is strongly discouraged.

Before applying putty, coat the walls with a primer. This will ensure good adhesion (connection) of the filler to the walls. The surface is primed with a special roller. Try to apply the primer solution evenly, avoiding gaps. One layer is enough.

There are such types of putty: finishing, lighthouse, starting. Let's take a closer look at the properties and scope.

The putty is carried out using a coarse starting material. It is not difficult to find it. When buying, it is called that - starting putty. To remove large wall drops, hide grooves, holes, it is convenient to use such a putty. The thickness of a layer of such a putty, applied at a time, can reach 1.5 cm. Allow the previous layers to dry completely. Only then proceed with the application of the next layer of putty.

In order to obtain the highest possible quality of the putty surfaces, a special painting net is installed on the wall, and the putty is distributed on it evenly over the entire surface. At the same time, the walls are completely solid. The advantage of this technology is that when using a paint grid, the putty adheres perfectly to the surface of the walls. And the surface itself becomes more durable and even. Moreover, the rougher the painting net, the smoother the treated wall surface.

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Depending on the material on the basis of which the putty is made, there are three types of it: cement, gypsum and polymer. Each type of putty has its own advantages and disadvantages.When renovating the hallway, due to the large area of the walls (more than 60 m 2) and their complex configuration (8 external, 7 internal corners plus two transverse beams at the ceiling), the best way to obtain a high-quality wall covering was their painting. Preparing the walls for painting was not an easy task, since some of the walls were plastered with lime plaster, some were made of old plasterboard sheets glued directly to the brick wall with alabaster, and a small section of the wall was brick (the cracked drywall had to be removed).Deviations of the walls from flatness and verticality by 0.5-5 cm were eliminated using Rotband gypsum plaster, and to prepare the surface of relatively flat sections of the walls for painting, two types of polymer finishing putty had to be used: Vetonit LR + and BOLARS Finishing Super ". Image - Plaster do-it-yourself apartment renovation

Why polymer, the most expensive? Because thanks to the good viscosity and adhesion of the polymer putty, any home craftsman can prepare walls for painting without even having more experience.

Although both types of selected putties are intended for finishing putty, they differ significantly in technical parameters in terms of the minimum thickness of the applied layer.

Thus, the selected three types of leveling dry mix made it possible to apply a layer of 0.2 mm to 5 cm to the walls.

Finishing putty can be purchased in cans, ready-made for application to walls. But it costs 20% more, so it is economically more expedient to purchase a dry mixture and dilute it yourself in water as needed.

For self-preparation of the putty, you need to pour cold tap water into a plastic container of a suitable size in a round shape, pour it into the water, observing the proportion, the required amount of dry mixture. Metal containers are undesirable, since when stirring with a mixer, its blades will hit the walls with noise, the metal can rust, and rust can get into the putty.

Stir the solution with a mixer or manually until the lumps disappear and a homogeneous pasty mass is obtained.Since the putty contains many components, and they dissolve in water at different rates, it is recommended to stir the solution again five minutes after the first mixing. The putty is ready and you can start working.

The consistency of the putty should be like thick sour cream. When removing the mixer from the solution, a non-disappearing trace should remain on its surface. Depending on the thickness of the applied layer of putty, its consistency should also change. When applying a thin layer, the putty should be thinner, and thicker - thicker.

Although the manufacturers of the putty do not recommend this, if you missed the consistency, then you can add a little water or dry mixture to the finished solution and mix again with a mixer. Tested in practice: it does not affect the quality.

After mixing, it is better to wash the mixer immediately. It is convenient to do this by dipping it into water and letting it work a little.

A lot of tools are not required to make walls. A few painting spatulas of different widths (18, 30 and 50 cm), a small container of water, a brush and a wet cloth are enough.

It is inconvenient to take the mortar from a round bucket with a spatula, so I use a small rectangular tray, a little wider than the width of the spatula blade. So that the right tool is always at hand, I place all the tools necessary for puttingty work and the tray with the putty in the larger tray (plastic cover from the turntable).

For the convenience of working at height, I use a do-it-yourself repair table with a stand. When I work at a height, I place the tray on a stand, and stand on a table. When I stand on the floor myself, I put the patch with the tools on the table. Thus, you do not have to be distracted, the quality of work is higher, you get less tired.

It is best to putty inside right angles with an angled trowel that has a rigid blade that is bent at right angles. It is difficult to obtain high quality interior corners without such a trowel.

Before applying the putty to the wall, regardless of its surface, I must wipe its surface with a cloth abundantly moistened with water. This is especially important when applying a very thin layer of putty.

Wiping allows you to solve several problems at once. Remove dust and dirt from the surface of the wall, moisten its surface in order to slow down the setting of the putty and improve adhesion due to better penetration of the binder composition of the putty into the pores of the wall. If you do not moisten the wall when applying a thin layer of putty, then the moisture from the solution will instantly be absorbed by the wall, the putty will seize, and it will be difficult to level it.

Almost all manufacturers of putties strongly recommend that the surface of the walls be coated with a primer of their production before applying the putty. This, in my opinion, is rather a commercial recommendation, and, as practice has shown, it is possible to do without it. If the walls are moistened or covered with a 10% aqueous solution of PVA glue, then the finishing putty will hold tightly.

If there are doubts about the reliability of adhesion of the putty to the wall surface, then moistening the wall with a brush with water in which PVA glue is dissolved at the rate of 1 part of glue to 9 parts of water helps. After moistening the wall, you can start applying a layer of putty.

A small amount of putty is taken from the tray with a spatula 18 cm wide. As you can see, the putty does not run off the canvas and is held in place by the roller. It must be held in any position of the trowel.

Further, the putty is evenly applied to the wall by moving the spatula in the vertical direction and crosswise. After applying the mortar to a given section of the wall with a narrow spatula, they begin to work with a wide spatula (width 50-60 cm). The trowel blade must be perfectly clean, no putty residues are allowed, even in the size of the dot.Otherwise, streaks will form.

The spatula is wiped with a damp cloth, without pressing it is applied to the beginning of the area with the applied putty at a minimum angle to the wall surface and with minimal pressure is pulled over the surface. You should get a flat surface.

If it is necessary to re-walk with a wide spatula, then remove the rest of the putty from its canvas with a narrow spatula and wipe it with a damp cloth. The canvas should be clean again. The rest of the putty must be removed, as they may harden a little and will leave grooves on the surface.

Small stripes often remain at the corners of the trowel blade. It is rarely possible to remove them, so you should not pay special attention to these traces, they are easily removed after the putty has hardened with several strokes of sandpaper. To obtain a perfect surface, after puttying the walls must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh.

When starting repairs in the house, you should draw up an accurate, all-encompassing work plan and strictly follow it. Particular attention should be paid to the walls. Unfortunately, not a single paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide the cosmetic defects and imperfections of the wall panels. Even in a new, just rebuilt building, the quality and evenness of the walls leaves much to be desired, which means that you will have to do something yourself.

Puttying the walls with your own hands

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

Putty is the building material that allows you to level the walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow you to make quality repairs.

Manufacturers of building materials offer ready-made and dry putties, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. Choosing here or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the marking indicated on the package. The letters KR or LR mean that the putty is intended for ordinary rooms, and the VH marking means use for rooms with high humidity.

Oil-glue putty based on drying oil. This type of putty is unsuitable for leveling concrete and brick walls, since it is almost completely absorbed into the wall, and later appears as stains through all finishing materials, except for wood panels and oil paint, therefore it is used for processing wooden walls.

Oil and glue putty based on drying oil

There is no tangible difference between a ready-made putty and a dry mixture. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, the maximum layer thickness obtained in one application.

An open can or a prepared amount of a putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and poorly applied, and a good result when working with such a tool is not guaranteed.

There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.

To dilute the dry mix you will need:

dry putty mixture;
water;
mixing container;
construction mixer or drill with a special attachment.

Usually the putty is diluted in the ratio of 1 liter of cold water to 2.5 kg of dry mix.

Cold water is poured into a prepared clean bucket.
The measured amount of the mixture is poured. It is advisable to evenly pour the powder into the water - this prevents the formation of clots of the building mass.

Kneading putty from dry mix

The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. A too liquid composition will flow down the wall, a thicker one will clump in a limited area, preventing an even layer of the product from being applied.

It should be remembered that the resulting mixture can neither be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water.Particular attention must be paid to prevent the ingress of foreign inclusions and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).

Puttying - the process is not so complicated and can be done independently. Various tools are required to work.

Spatulas vary in size from small to large (some wall areas will require spatulas up to 60 cm long). The blades of working trowels must be even and smooth, without chipping. In case your spatulas do not meet this requirement, you need to lightly process the surfaces with fine sandpaper.

Dedicated sandpaper holder

PVC corner profile with reinforcing mesh

The whole process of applying the putty material can be broken down into successive stages.

Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning walls

The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. For this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) must be removed. Places of localization of mold - treat with specially designed compounds. All decorative and cladding materials must be removed from the walls. Old plaster - knock down. When performing the above works, spatulas, construction washes and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. The cleaned walls need to be dried, without a draft, on average it takes from 12 to 24 hours to dry.

Further, the quality of the walls is checked by the level or building rule. A marker is used to indicate all indentations and valleys. Roughness and protrusions are cut and sanded with coarse sandpaper.

Important! It is not recommended to make any manipulations over the frozen walls and ceiling. In this case, there is no guarantee that the material will hold in place and the coating will remain intact.

Many neglect the priming of the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and lends itself better to puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.

"Clean" walls are primed in two layers, if plastering of the walls is supposed to be enough and one layer of primer before puttying. The primer creates a thin film on the wall surface and protects against the development of mold and mildew.

Principles of applying putty on the wall

Principles of applying putty on the wall

For work, you will need two spatulas - an average one for gaining the working mass from the container and distributing it with a uniform comb over a larger spatula, which will level the putty along the wall. "Working" trowels can vary depending on the section of the wall.

Experts advise starting from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is slightly overlapped, trying to level the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much putty. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movement of car wipers, by passing the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards yourself and without too much pressure.

It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will serve as a guarantor of a strong and durable coating.

How do I process corners?

To get a perfectly even angle, you can use a special angled spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mass is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.

There is a variant of using a corner profile, which is glued into the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.

In this case, you can leave more filler in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to perfect condition during the final sanding stage.

The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued with construction glue.If the walls are flat enough, then the paint net is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and tougher the material, the smoother the putty surface will be.

Wall putty on a polymer mesh

If there are grooves and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the crevice, and then the entire wall is treated with the putty.

Construction brands offer special starting putties for this stage, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will also dry for at least 24 hours. The recommended starting layer thickness is 5 mm.

This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only during its execution the evenness of the wall is constantly checked by the building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.

Putty using beacons

An important point: making the second puttying, you need to "stretch" the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.

Final third putty

The thinnest layer, its thickness is not more than 2.5 mm. For this stage, there are also special mixtures, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.

The plastered walls are dried with closed windows and temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and heaters is inadmissible. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed, but the interior doors open.

It is recommended to withstand the final drying for about a day, so flaws and shortcomings that were not seen during work will be visible, and the coating itself will better adhere to the wall.

Sanding of walls after putty

To give the wall its final smoothness, it must be sanded using the holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for gluing wallpaper, it is necessary to sand with an abrasive with a grain size in the range from P80 to p120. When preparing the wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.

Correctly plastered walls are the key to any high-quality repair

Puttying is not a very difficult process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.

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Submit your assignment and find out pricesNot everyone knows how to putty walls with their own hands, without using the services of specialists and avoiding mistakes. It is very important, in the process of preparing the walls for finishing work, to adhere to the technologies, to perform the stages one by one and to use the construction tool correctly, then as a result we will get a flat and smooth surface.By purpose, the putty is divided into types:

starting, used as a leveling layer

decorative (finishing)

universal

The composition of almost all types of putty is the same: plasticizers, base and adhesives. The component that is laid in the base is the main difference that allows you to divide the putty material into:Before you putty the walls yourself, you need to study the advantages and disadvantages of working with each type of putty mixture, prepare the tools and materials that will be needed in the work.Dignityfor rooms in which the percentage of humidity is below normal (bedrooms, hallways)as a result, we get a smooth surface, it is permissible to apply a layer of no more than 2 mm to the wall, it sets within two hoursdries quickly, is afraid of moisturefor rooms with high levels of humidity (kitchens, facades, basement)low cost, water resistancecracks may appear over time, slight shrinkage

for rooms with normal humidity levelsafter applying putty on the wall, an ideal surface is formed for further work (painting, wallpapering), quickly sets, lays down wellIt is not difficult to putty the walls with your own hands if you follow the technology and consistency in the process. The first step is to prepare the wall surface. It is important that the wall is dry and clean. It is not recommended to putty walls that are frozen over.In order for the putty material to ideally lay on the walls, use a primer. The walls are primed before applying the putty. The primer connects the putty to the wall. The primer solution must be applied evenly, without gaps, for this use a special roller. The primer can be applied in one layer and allowed to dry.Examine the room, clean the walls and remove all unnecessary from the room. This will allow you to see the scale of the work and select the appropriate type of putty and tools. Before you putty the walls, you need to remove all the cracks. To do this, you need to use a plaster mix. The crack needs to be slightly embroidered in width and depth. After that, we treat the gap with a primer and only then putty.If you decide to putty on your own, then it is better to start with the use of ready-made, not dry mixes. Having bought a dry mixture, be attentive to the recommendations on the package. It is important to prepare the filler from a dry mix in the correct consistency.

pour a little water into a clean container

add dry powder (putty) and mix thoroughly with a simple spatula

use a drill with a mixer to ensure the mixture is homogeneous, if necessary add water gradually

The mixture is ready to be applied to walls if it has an elastic homogeneous structure and does not run off the trowel. If lumps have formed in the putty - the mixture is too thick, if it flows down from the spatula - add the dry mixture.In order for the process of filling the walls to be successful, you need to follow the sequence of steps and prepare all the necessary tools in advance:

starting putty. At this stage, we need a large trowel. The putty should be applied to the walls in medium, even portions, spreading over the surface. The spatula should be held at an angle 30 degrees... Apply the putty in one diagonal motion. If this is the first time you will putty with your own hands, we recommend applying each layer with an overlap. This will eliminate the transition line and avoid bumps.

processing of even corners. At this stage, we will learn how to putty the corners with our own hands. Prepare a small and angled spatula. Using a small trowel, apply a small layer of putty to the slope, then level the surface using an angle tool

finishing putty. After the starting layer has become dry, you can proceed to the topcoat. Prepare the spatulas - small and large. The thickness of the decorative putty layer should not be more than 2 mm. With a small spatula, put the putty on a large one in medium portions. Evenly spread the putty mixture on the surface

putty for pasting and painting walls. We proceed to this stage only after the two previous layers of putty have completely dried.

Before proceeding with the putty of the walls with your own hands, you need to determine the type of coating on which you will apply the putty. The methods of application and the required degree of density depend on this.Before you start to putty the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the wallpaper. If the wallpaper has a thin structure, several layers of leveling putty should be applied. After that, you can, without the help of a master, glue the wallpaper with your own hands without bubbles and folds.It is best to use dry putty mixtures, which you can prepare yourself by following the instructions.The thickness of the layer of putty when preparing the wall for wallpapering should not exceed 1-2 mm... Therefore, pay special attention to the elimination of cracks and potholes during the roughing phase.Wall decoration for painting requires careful preliminary preparation, since the paint does not hide the irregularities.The plastering procedure for painting walls is performed in stages:

thinly apply the leveling layer

for walls with a large number of deep irregularities of a large volume, it is necessary to apply a putty in 2-3 layers

leave to dry for a few hours

apply the decorative layer according to the technology described in the section above

when all layers of putty have dried, we rub the wall with sandpaper, thus removing all the roughness

Before starting repairs, you need to make an estimate. This will allow you to calculate in advance the consumption of materials and finance. If you want to putty the walls with your own hands, then savings are important to you.

It is more profitable to use dry mixtures for putty, since it turns out from a bag of twenty kilograms 30 liters mixtures of good consistency. To calculate, you need to know the size of the room. Manufacturers of putty mixtures declare that on 1 sq.m. roughly goes away 1 kg putties (only on 1 layer).

Video (click to play).

Wall putty consumption table

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