Sewing machine seagull 142 m DIY repair

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of the home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported home sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like recently it was still sewing well, but it just began to twist. It is almost impossible for her to really break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But here, unfortunately, she dodges almost "from birth" and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.

Many other "charms" were provided by the plant together with instructions for the device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal works, an electrical diagram of the engine is given, but not a word about how to set up and carry out repairs sewing machine seagull.

The Chaika sewing machine has many models, practically not much different from each other: Chaika 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143, etc. The sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as the Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as the Seagull.

Setting up, adjusting and repairing sewing machines Chaika is practically the same for all models mentioned above, except for the repair of the copier (depending on the model of the machine) and setting some parameters of the shuttle course. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws from the top). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the hook cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. The places that need to be lubricated can be found in the instructions for the machine or all accessible rubbing metal parts and assemblies can be lubricated.

It is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe for lubrication, just select such a size that it fits in the neck of the container with oil. The needle must be removed when “filling” with oil.

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and on its basis several types of finishing stitches - these are gaps, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breakage at the top and bottom. It is these malfunctions and ways to eliminate them that we will consider in this article.

Thread breakage most often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason that leads to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the condition of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use correct sewing machine needles and the Chaika sewing machine, in accordance with the instructions.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.

The longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle slot is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, in the upper part of the machine (scroll the handwheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right pricks. Hopefully the entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag - contact the expert, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on a plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket. Adjusting this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since the forward shift of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the shift away from the seamstress is the cause of omissions.

Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other nodes to malfunction, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.

It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches can form on the nose of the shuttle, which "loosen" the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running your fingernail along the edge of the nose or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, free of chipping and rusty spots.

When sewing rough fabrics, the needle sometimes moves upward with the needle bar. Skipping stitch appears. In this photo, arrows indicate where the needle bar screw and the upper thread tensioner screw are located.

Incorrect sewing machine hook position leads to thread breakage and other stitching defects, including gaps. Skips usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not catch the formed loop, it passes by and a skip is formed. Many other factors can be the cause.

In order to correctly set the position of the meeting point of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle stroke. Loosen the two bolts that secure it and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move or delay the stroke together with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axis rather than moving back and forth. This is a very important point. It is not necessary to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in with a hammer, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Anything else that can be added, sort it out carefully before twisting something, and even more so unscrewing it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.

At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, the following parameters must be observed: the gap between the nose and the blade is approximately 0.15 mm; when the needle comes out of the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should come up to it above the needle eye by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is lifting the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be paid special attention to. In order for the spout to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it goes, hooking it.That is why the needle must first go down and then, rising a little, already meet the nose of the looper.

The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the bushing under the front cover (see above).

If you set these shuttle adjustment parameters, then sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively fine. But, unfortunately, this is not the end of the repair. There are also many other shuttle settings, which are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for thread looping and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines are hidden - a breakage of the lower thread. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the sewing machine "Seagull" engineers have provided their own specifics of setting up this unit and, moreover, requiring a lot of experience from the performer. For which I thank them, at least from the sewing machine repairmen. They will not remain without work as long as there are sewing machines "Chaika".

Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this node, but many cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the friction washer petals inside the shaft slot, therefore they do this. As a result, the machine starts spinning empty.
The petals should be directed not towards the machine body (shaft), but towards you. Moreover, they can be delivered in “two versions”, choose one in which the stop screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.

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The most reliable and easy-to-use sewing machine, as well as the Chaika sewing machine, is "originally" from the USSR, but unlike Chaika, it almost does not break and is capable of sewing any thick and rough fabrics, including leather.

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sewing machine Chaika 142M at work.

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We express our gratitude to you for purchasing a sewing machine from our plant.
Please read this manual carefully before using your machine. There you will find everything you need to know about the sewing operations that the machine performs.
When you have read the manual in detail, do not rush to throw it away, it can always come in handy and give you the necessary help.

1. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

2. PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE

Household sewing machine class 142 is designed for sewing cotton, linen, synthetic, woolen and silk fabrics with straight or zigzag stitches with one or two (double-pins) needles, for sewing decorative and special stitches,as well as for embroidery and darning. To the table of contents

3. TECHNICAL DETAILS

3.1 Maximum frequency of rotation of the main shaft, rpm - 1000.
Note: At the maximum sewing speed, the parts will wear faster.
3.2. The largest total thickness of materials to be sewn, mm - 4.5
3.3. Raising the presser foot, mm - not less than 6.
3.4. Stitch length (adjustable), mm - up to 4.
3.5. Zigzag width (adjustable), mm - up to 5.
3.6. Displacement of the needle to the right-left from the middle (adjustable), mm - 2.5.
3.7. Head dimensions, mm - 290x178x412.
3.8. Departure of the sleeve, mm - not less than 170.
3.9. Machine weight with foot drive, kg - no more than 39.
3.10. Overall dimensions of the cabinet-table, mm - 570x430x780.
3.11. Mass of a car with an electric drive in a suitcase-case, kg - no more than 16.
3.12. Dimensions of the case-case, mm - 500x220x340.
3.13. Applied needles: 0220 No. 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 GOST 22249-76 and two-pins No. 0240 No. 70, 80, 90 GOST 22249-76.
Applicable threads: sewing cotton 21 tex x 3 (No. 30); 16.5 tex x 3 (# 40); 13 tex x З № 50); 10 tex x 3 (no. 60); 7.5 tex x 3 (No. 80) GOST 6309-80, as well as natural silk threads No. 65 GOST 22665-77.

4. CONTENTS OF DELIVERY

4.1 Sewing machine class 142 is manufactured in the following versions:
a) sewing machine with a foot drive and a table-cabinet (142-22, 142-22-0, 142-22-1);
b) a sewing machine with an electric drive on a stand in a suitcase (142-33).
c) a sewing machine with a wardrobe table, with a foot and electric drive (142-22-33); 142-22-1-33). To the table of contents

4.2 Each car comes with:
a) a set of accessories included in the box:
needles - 5 pcs.
two-pin needles - 3 pcs.
oiler - 1 pc.
large screwdriver - 1 pc.
small screwdriver - 1 pc.
darning device - 1 pc.
foot with ruler - 1 pc.
sewing foot 1 - 1 pc.
bobbin - 4 pcs.
ripping knife in a case - 1 pc.
brush-brush - 1 pc.
lighting lamp with voltage of 220 V,
power -15 watts - 1 pc.
needle threader - 1 pc.
blind stitching device - 1 pc.
button sewing foot - 1 pc.
switch foot - 1 pc.
foot for embossed stitching and sewing on a cord - 1 pc.
buttonhole and stitch foot - 1 pc .;
b) operation manual with a certificate of acceptance and a warranty card.

4.3 Collecting the machine with a table (fig. 1)
The head 3 with its lower part (platform) 15 is attached to the table-cabinet with two hinges 14 and screws 16, the visor 11 with two screws 13 and washers 12 is screwed to the machine platform.

5. PREPARING THE MACHINE FOR OPERATION

5.1. Preparing the Foot Operated Machine (see fig. 1)

Fold back the top cover 2 and place it on the previously opened door 1 of the table-cabinet as a support.
Then raise the front valve 5, pull out the machine head 3 and, lowering the valve, install the machine head on it.

After that, put the belt 6 on the flywheel stream 4, pass its two ends through the holes in the visor 11 and connect with a paper clip. Before starting work, put the belt 6 on the drive wheel 7.
Working with a foot machine requires a certain skill. First of all, beginners need to learn how to idle the machine. To do this, loosen the friction screw 2 from the side of the flywheel 1 (Fig. 2a) and turn it in the direction of the arrow (towards yourself). At the same time, hold the flywheel stationary with the other hand.
By alternately pressing the feet on the pedal 8 (see Fig. 1), set the flywheel 4 in motion, which should rotate in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure.

When switching the machine to work, you need to be extremely careful.
Friction washer 1 (Fig. 26) must be placed with the horns 4 outward, ie, to the friction screw 2. Then screw in the friction screw 2 as far as it will go and screw in the screw 3.
If in this position the machine does not start to work, unscrew the stop screw 3 and turn the washer 1 half a turn and again, fastening with the friction screw 2, screw in the screw 3.

5.2. Preparing the Electric Machine for Operation (fig. 3)

A cord with three plugs is attached to the machine. Plug 4 is connected to the socket of the rheostat 5, plug 3 - into the socket of the engine on the machine, plug 2 - directly into the socket from the mains.
To turn on the lamp, plug 1 must be inserted into the socket located in the top cover of the machine.
The machine is put into operation by smoothly pressing the rheostat pedal 5 with the foot.When starting, it is recommended that, lightly touching the flywheel rim with your right hand, turn it in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure (i.e. towards yourself).
Note: Do not over tighten the drive belt. When pressed in the middle, it should flex by about 5mm.

5.3. Control elements and components of the machine (fig. 4)

1. Pressing foot.
2. Shaft of the foot.
3. Needle holder.
4. Needle bar.
5. Cover.
6. Thread take-up lever.
7. Cover fixing screws.
8. Rods for coils.
9. Reel tension unit.
10. Pointer for selecting the type of stitches.
11. Zigzag width indicator.
12. Winder.
13. Flywheel.
14. Knob for zigzag width.
15. Left and right needle bias knob.
16. Knob for switching the type of stitches.
17. Lever for reverse feed.
18. Knob of the stitch length regulator.
19. Upper thread tension dial.
20. Sleeve with platform.
21. Sliding plate.
22. Shuttle device.
23. Material engine.
24. Needle plate.

5.4. Installing or replacing the needle (fig. 5)

By turning the handwheel towards you, the needle bar is set to the uppermost position.
Then the needle 1 is inserted into the needle holder 2 up to the stop and fixed with the screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle must face away from the worker.
Note: The needle is always inserted up to the stop, with the long groove on the thread entry side.

5.5. Preparing the machine for work

First, fix the friction screw 2 (see Fig. 26) by turning it in the opposite direction to the arrow, that is, set the machine to working stroke.
Then set the needle to the uppermost position by turning the handwheel towards you.
After that, lift the presser foot 5 (Fig. 6) with the lifting lever 2 and pull the spool pin 3 up from the sleeve cover until it stops and install the spool of thread on it.

5.6. Threading the upper thread

The upper thread is tucked in the following sequence (fig. 7):

a) from the spool 1 into the holes 2 and 3 of the thread guide;
b) between the tension washers of the adjuster 6;
c) through the thread guide spring 5;
d) down under the hook 7;
e) up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 4;
f) down into the thread guide 8;
g) down into the thread guide 9 on the needle bar;
h) into the eye of the needle 10 from the side of the person working from himself.

The threads are threaded into the double-pivot needle in the same sequence.

5.7. Getting a quality stitching can be achieved with the correct selection of needles and threads, depending on the thickness of the materials being sewn.

It is recommended to take the lower thread one number thinner than the upper one, or, in extreme cases, one number.
The machine you have purchased has a needle No. 100, therefore, to check the machine for sewing, you need to use threads No. 40 and cotton fabrics such as coarse calico or flannel.
When sewing thin and viscous fabrics, it is recommended to guide and hold the fabric or place thin paper under the fabric to avoid puckering at the seam.
The numbers of the needles and threads, depending on the materials being sewn, are indicated in table. one.
Note: You can see the table of modern needles here. It is necessary to use the type of needles for which the machine is configured. Domestic needles - the diameter of the bulb is 1.75mm, imported - 1.7mm.

The instruction of the Chaika sewing machine can be used as an operating manual for any model of sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch of the Chaika type: Chaika 2, Chaika 3, Chaika 134.

This instruction for the Chaika sewing machine is also suitable for the Malva sewing machines and the Podolsk brand: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 142M, etc.

These operating instructions for the sewing machine are given in abbreviated form, based on the manufacturer's instructions.
The operation and device of the Podolsk and Chaika sewing machine is practically the same type, therefore this operating manual is suitable for all models of these sewing machines, including the Malva sewing machine. They have the same structure and differ only in the presence of additional types of zigzag stitching.Some Chaika and Podolskaya models have an additional device (copier) for this and, accordingly, a lever for switching modes of its operation. The shuttle device, threading and adjustment parameters of the units and mechanisms of these sewing machines are practically the same, with the exception of setting some settings for the shuttle operation parameters (depending on the machine model).
For details on how to set up and perform minor repairs of sewing machines like the Seagull, see other articles in the section dedicated to repairing sewing machines.

1. Shuttle device. 2. Platform. 3. Stitch plate. 4. Pressing foot. 5. Needle bar. i6. Presser foot lifter. 7. Upper thread tension dial. 8. Top and front covers. 9. Thread take-up lever. 10. Tension washers. 11. Index of the type of stitches. 12. Zigzag width indicator. 13. Spool pin. 14. Winder. 15. Flywheel. 16. Needle bias lever. 17. Zigzag handle. 18. Lever for reverse feed. 19. Knob of the stitch length regulator. 20. Knob of the comb lift regulator. 21. Material engine. 22. Panel of figures. 23. Knob for switching the copier unit.

Fine silk, cambric - needle No. 70, thread - 65
Bed linen, calico, chintz, satin, silk, linen fabrics - needle No. 80, thread - 65
Heavy cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics, heavy grades of silk - needle No. 90
Woolen suit - no. Needles 100
Thick woolen coat fabrics, broadcloth - needle No. 110

Needle 1 must be inserted into the needle holder 2 (at the upper position of the needle bar) up to the stop and secured with the screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be facing in the opposite direction from the working person (Fig. 4)

Threading the upper thread
Pull the spool pin 13 up to the stop from the sleeve cover.
Bring the thread take-up eye to the upper position by turning the handwheel.
Raise the presser foot.
Place a spool of thread on spool 13.
Thread the upper thread in this sequence. Into the holes 7 and 6 of the thread guide, between the washers 8 of the tension adjuster, then upwards into the eye 4 of the take-up spring, down under the thread take-up hook 3, up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 5, down into the thread guide 2, into the thread guide 1 on the needle bar and insert into the eye needles 9 from the side of the worker.

Threading the bobbin thread
Before threading the bobbin thread, you need to remove the bobbin case with the bobbin from the bobbin, for which it is necessary to turn the handwheel to bring the needle up. Pull out the slide plate, grasp the bobbin case latch lever with two fingers of your left hand, and remove the bobbin case.

Wind the threads onto the bobbin using the bobbin winder. When winding thread onto a bobbin, the handwheel should be idling. To do this, loosen the friction screw 1 (Fig. 8).
Slide the bobbin onto the bobbin spindle 2 so that the spindle spring enters the bobbin slot. Place the spool 1 with thread on the spool pin. Thread the thread from the spool between the tension washers 4, as shown in Fig. 9, and then wind a few turns on the bobbin by hand. Press the winder against the flywheel. Next, wind up by rotating the flywheel using the drive.
When the bobbin is fully wound, the rubber ring of the winder stops contacting the flywheel and winding stops. Before removing the bobbin, the winder must be swiveled to the left of the stop 3.
Thread the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread under the tension spring as shown in fig. 10. Leave the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Insert the bobbin case with the threaded bobbin into the hook. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position.
Push the bobbin case with the bobbin onto pin 3 of the bobbin as far as it will go. In this case, the pin 1 of the bobbin case must enter the slot 2 (fig. 11).

To ensure easy running of the machine and prevent wear, all places indicated by arrows should be lubricated with one or two drops of industrial oil I-20A GOST 20799-75.
Machine head lubrication points (fig. 17)
Zigzag lubrication points (fig. 19)
Cleaning and lubricating the shuttle (fig. 20)
Heavy movement of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle stroke. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, fleece, dust.
See also Sewing Machine Lubrication
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be in the upper position. Pull out the bobbin case 1, by turning the spring lock towards you, remove the trim ring 2, take out the hook 3. Carefully clean the nest of the hook 4 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt and threads. In this case, it is not allowed to use metal objects for cleaning, so as not to damage the cleanliness of the working surface. The direction for the hook in the travel housing and the winder spindle are also lubricated with 1-2 drops of oil.

The Chaika sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a sewing machine for the home, despite the abundance of imported household sewing machines in stores. At one time, I had to buy Chaika for a lot of money, and she seems to sew well, but only sometimes she twists, otherwise everything is safe and sound. Indeed, it is almost impossible to break the Chaika sewing machine. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But here, unfortunately, the line loops
almost “from birth”, sometimes gaps appear in the line, especially on the zigzag and knocks when sewing like a machine gun.
The manufacturer encloses instructions for the Chaika sewing machine in the kit, where it is detailed how to use the machine and perform various operations, there is even an electric motor circuit, a pedal device, but not a word on how to set up and perform at least minor repairs of the Chaika sewing machine. We will try to fill this gap in the instructions and give several recommendations on how to repair the Chaika sewing machine with our own hands.

The main malfunction in machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and, on its basis, several types of finishing stitches are gaps, looping of the lower and upper thread, as well as its breakage at the top and bottom. Sewing machine Chaika, Chaika M, Chaika 142, Chaika 132, Chaika 134, Chaika 132 m, Chaika 142 M, Chaika 143, Chaika 3, Chaika 2 and Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1; Malva and others - all these machines have the same device and instructions for use and adjustment, so their repair is almost the same, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting the shuttle settings. But since our task is to learn how to customize only a line, we will omit the repair of many nodes. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience at home.

Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine on your own, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws). Detach the foot, remove the needle and stitch plate, and the bobbin cover. Detach the clipper from the wooden stand or table. Disassemble the bobbin: bobbin case, locking ring, hook. Now remove dust, dirt, fleece from the machine (especially in the shuttle section) and lubricate all rubbing accessible places with machine oil well. Use a tough small glue brush to clean, and a medical disposable syringe is very convenient to lubricate the sewing machine.

Thread breakage often occurs with sewing machines such as the Seagull. The first reason leading to thread breakage is a bent needle point, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.Use needles that are in good condition and intended only for household sewing machines, in accordance with See instructions for the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk 142
Sewing machine needles must be in perfect condition. The condition of the needle can be determined by running your fingernail along the tip of the needle or using a magnifying glass. Often it is the needle that causes gaps in stitches, needle breakage and other stitching defects.
Select the needle number according to the thickness of the fabric and thread. Do not use home sewing machine needles with a round bulb. Household sewing machine needles have a saw cut on the flask.
For sewing various fabrics and materials, use the appropriate type of needle, for example, for sewing leather, the needle has a four-sided point, which makes it easier to pierce the material and contributes to the formation of a loop on the needle when it is gripped by the nose of the shuttle.

Thread breakage can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will periodically break. When sewing a straight stitch, the needle should be in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly spaced from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the distance L should be the same with R.
Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle slot is carried out by displacing the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker, in the upper part of the machine (turn the handwheel on the zigzag line and you will see this attachment). Loosen these screws and set the needle on a straight stitch exactly in the center (by moving the needle bar frame). Then check the position of the needle at the left and right injection. The entry of the needle (at the maximum zigzag width), on the right and left, will be evenly spaced from the center. If the needle touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.

The transverse position of the needle is adjusted by a rod, fixed on the plate with two screws, and a plate that presses the needle bar frame to the rod of the bracket.
The adjustment of this unit is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously get lost during operation, especially with electric sewing machines. Therefore, if you decide to repair the Chaika sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust this position of the needle, since the forward displacement of the needle is the cause of its breakage, and the displacement towards the seamstress is the cause of omissions.
Adjusting the crosswise position of the needle requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the master, since the wrong position of the needle can be the cause of misalignment of other nodes, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
Pay attention to the condition of the stitch plate. Hole e must not be “broken” or jagged. It is better to replace such a plate.

Until the end of the nineties - the beginning of the zero, Chaika machines were the most popular sewing, embroidery and tailoring machines in the CIS. Despite the huge demand, it was almost impossible to buy them from official representatives, although they cost quite reasonable money. The reason lies in the difficult economic situation on the territory of our country after the collapse of the USSR - there was no need for organizing mass sales, logistics, establishing markets for the sale of money and personnel, but there was a demand for the product. As a result, the machine became a hit of sales through advertisements (newspaper Iz Ruk v Ruki) and by acquaintance.
Reliable, functional, they have become good helpers for home craftswomen. Aluminum body, steel parts excluded the possibility of frequent breakdowns and wear of units and parts.

The Podolsk Mechanical Plant (where the apparatus was made) at one time was almost the main supplier of household sewing machines in the USSR. Up to 1.5 million of them were produced per year.After the nationalization of the Singer plant, production was resumed only in 1928. The cars were produced in a compact version with a manual drive, an electric motor, packed in casings and leatherette covers. There were cabinet options with drawers for storing related accessories and fixtures. Their quality was low, they quickly fell into disrepair. The process of improvement and development of skills continued until 1963. Soviet machines began to be equipped with a thread tension device, a reverse gear appeared, several types of stitching. In the late 90s, imported Jaguars, Vicks and others like them poured into the country. Domestic Podolsk sewing machines could not compete in the number of operations, in equipping with automated control.

The model range of "Seagulls" is very diverse. Despite the fact that it was regularly updated, in fact, the devices practically did not differ from each other (only some small units, but this was visible only to specialists). The main set of functions has not changed. The types of electric motors were different - from Russian to Japanese; actuators were produced both hand and foot.

One of the oldest models - the production of the first copies started back in the 30s of the 20th century. Despite the seeming primitivism, for a novice seamstress or just for a hostess who wants to experiment with sewing, add comfort to the house (sew decorative pillowcases, bedspreads, napkins), the second "Seagull" is an excellent choice. Simple decorative seams are easily obtained on it.

You can buy it hand-held, according to ads. The average price of a working copy in a normal state is 2000-2500 rubles.

Ideological successor to the previous model. There are small adjustments in appearance; the first work on ease of use was carried out - two new regulators were added, the working weight of the machine was slightly reduced (about 300g due to the manufacture of some of the materials from lighter metal). In addition to the functions of the previous model, it has 10 special feet for sewing on buttons and darning. The stitch length is now adjustable.

The approximate purchase price of a used version (there are no others in our time, unfortunately) is 1000-1200r ("Troika" is more expensive, mainly due to the fact that there are not enough of them left).

The first electromechanical model in the series. The release began in the 60s. Almost all of the copies that can be bought today were produced between the 1980s and 1992 (the actual year of production ceased), i.e. cars of quite decent quality (of course, it still depends on the accuracy of the previous owner).

On 132M you can successfully sew thick fabrics - fur, tapestry, drape. For freedom of hands, seamstresses use a foot drive. If you change the thread and needle, you can also sew fine fabrics. The main care is the timely lubrication of the units.

If you want to buy it from your hands, be guided by the price of 3500-4000 rubles.

The 134 is a purely functionally identical model. There is an obvious improvement in design, work on ergonomics, geometry of the structure; the color of the moving elements - levers and switches was changed (the operating experience of the previous model was taken into account - the hands of the needlewomen could get dirty, and the white handles quickly fell into disrepair)

Price - about 3000r (134-ku is not known as well as 132-ku, and therefore they sell cheaper)

Without exaggeration, the best model ever released! 142 is the most advanced apparatus capable of performing a lot of operations. There is a thread cutter in this model, a thread tension device, an electric motor. It differs from the related model 142 in the structure of the overlooking feet. He copes successfully with sewing products from flax, silk, wool, cotton. There are twin needles for decorative seams. The main types of stitching are straight and zigzag.

You can buy a sewing machine from 4000 rubles. (in a good condition). You should not spare money to purchase it - not a single analog is sold for such a price - Brother, Bernina and others are many times more expensive, but the functionality is the same, and the reliability is lower.

To summarize, it is worth recognizing that the well-worn "heroine" of this article is clearly inferior to modern multifunctional units (Astralux, Pfaff and other analogues of the same price category are more convenient, quieter, and work more harmoniously). However, it has one big advantage - it works great with thick fabrics.

Primary safety requirements

1) The most basic thing that you should do if you sit down for the first time at the typewriter is to install the needle correctly. Otherwise, you simply cannot start the device. Pay close attention to the first step. Also, do not try to install needles from devices of other brands into the machine - only “native” needles. Example:

2) The handwheel (round rotating wheel) can only be turned counterclockwise, i.e. to myself;

3) Immediately before starting to sew, "pierce" the fabric with the needle, fix it with the foot, and turn the handwheel by hand so that the needle passes through the fabric several times;

4) When carrying out maintenance, do not lubricate the machine parts with sunflower oil, linseed oil, olive oil, etc. - only special technical oil, the GOST of which is indicated in the instructions below;

5) It is strictly not recommended to start the "idle" sewing process (without the fabric between the surface of the machine and the foot) - this way the machine's engine will quickly deteriorate and will have to be replaced.

The instructions below are relevant for the entire model range - from 2 to 142m.

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