Sewing machines podolsk DIY repair

Complex repairs of sewing machines related to the adjustment of units and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced master. But such repairs are rarely performed, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine starts to “play up” if the rules of its operation, specified in the instructions, are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not followed.

The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunction is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this sewing machine model. Sewing a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, subsequent complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY repair of a sewing machine.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in the tissue and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle hits the metal part of the machine body, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How would such a point pierce the tissue? Only one way is to break it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will catch on the curved point and “slow down”, creating excess upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason the loops appear in the stitching. Moreover, the curved tip will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult to sew areas, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.

It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly has no blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
You do not need to throw out the used needles, as there are situations when the needles break one after the other, for example, when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about the jar with old needles.

Another reason for adjusting the sewing machine, especially the old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect insertion of the needle into the needle bar. The needle blade (fig. B) should be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the stitch plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly begins to twist and break the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you break the gap between the hook point and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine hook. Some commercial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and may touch the surface of the hook, scratch it or even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle.Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is a curve or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

To make the sewing machine “more confident” to work with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and make it easier for the thread to pass through the fabric, almost eliminating skipped stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

The thread looping in the stitching, as well as the characteristic knock during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, incorrectly set shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor quality stitch, pay attention first of all to the condition of the needle, to the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working properly. Very often, children like to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the sewing machine Chaika quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle move.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a sewing machine Chaika can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass; it should not have any chipping or rusty spots. If there are jags, they must be removed with a small file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the file marks and loops will appear below. Only this must be done carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the shuttle nose.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bobbin thread is wound around it) can cause repairs to the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the units, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread fleece, the bobbin thread will come out in jerks and the upper thread in the stitching will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You are tightening it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread fluff has accumulated, which prevents the washers from fully squeezing. The fastening of the tensioner (Chaika) may have loosened.

But still, most often, sewing machines such as the Seagull have a malfunction in the parameters of the shuttle and the needle. This is a complex type of repairing a sewing machine, more precisely setting, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason due to which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in a stitch, uneven stitching, skips, etc. This often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic body is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even completely "falls out" of the body.

In this photo, arrows indicate the attachment of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, intersecting seams on leather goods, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move upward with the needle.
Loosen the screw slightly and adjust its position, making sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turning left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article "The device of the sewing machine tensioner Chaika".

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching by Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others implies setting the position of the looper point above the needle eye by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper point approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle drop (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The point of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost closely to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10-point wrench, and holding the handwheel by hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle stroke) by adjusting the position of the hook point in relation to the needle.

However, these are not all of the parameters for adjusting the interaction of the hook nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment when the needle starts to rise. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines performing a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. With the left and right prick of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should run slightly above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, about 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are often not required to be performed, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the shuttle interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, adjusting the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the shuttle from dust and fleece, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle move and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the stitch plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, you need a more accurate adjustment of these parameters, which can only be set by the master.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary as long as the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, not let it into the “wrong” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.

After prolonged operation, clean the bobbin compartment and other accessible places from dust, fleece, oil stains. The shuttle itself and the shuttle mechanism should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it a little “idle” on it, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into units and places of friction.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a cool, dry place.If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden, and the machine will turn tightly, or even jam. This case is considered in the article Podolsk Manual Sewing Machine.

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Working household sewing equipment Podolsk today is not less than half a century. And someone, probably, uses older models of typewriters in business. The offspring of the American plant Singer in Podolsk is distinguished by the highest reliability and durability. However, repairs to the devices are still required from time to time. It is better to replace parts and complex faults with the hands of a master, and minor breakdowns can be corrected on your own, relying on expert advice and video instructions.

Cars Podolsk class 2M or 1M, despite their considerable age, are strong and reliable. The technique is usually hand or foot operated and only produces a straight stitch. The Podolsk sewing machine has a number of inconveniences, but is still relevant. She works with thick and dense fabrics, jacket zippers and leather.

Advice. The old apparatus Podolsk today can be bought for a symbolic price from hand. Full-blooded repairs with the involvement of a master will cost more. Therefore, if you cannot fix the problem yourself, then it is better to buy another typewriter.

Straight stitch parts can also be found at the flea market. Even parts from similar devices from other manufacturers will do. The most common breakdowns of the Podolsk household sewing machine of class 1M and 2M:

• the needle is incorrectly installed and the upper thread is threaded;
• there are problems with lubrication;
• the fastening nodes are loose;
• the thread winding knot is worn out;
• the manual drive is out of order.

It is the needle that is the key element in the construction of the sewing machine. Malfunctions of this part of the mechanism can be classified as follows:

The needle makes many punctures of the material, including dense and thick ones. It is not surprising that after a certain time it dulls or bends. Indirect signs of this:

• the tip breaks through, and does not pierce the surface of the tissue;
• loops appear in the line;
• the thread breaks from time to time, especially in difficult areas.

In general, experts advise changing the needle regularly, even if the old one is intact. Do not throw away old needles. They will definitely come in handy for sewing products from thick fabrics and leather. Also, don't forget that special needles are sold for jeans, stretch and knitwear.

The second reason for the incorrect operation of the Podolsk machine - incorrect installation of the needle - is not a breakdown. If the machine starts to loop and break the thread, check the following:

1. The sewing machine contains a household needle, not an industrial needle. The latter is longer and does not have a characteristic cut on the flask. She will sew, but with skipped stitches and hook scratching.
2. The needle is not inserted correctly. Correct position: blade to the left and long groove to the right.

It would be nice to know exactly how the needle is correctly positioned specifically in your model. Because the pre-war Podolsk machines have a mirror-like needle arrangement. Seamstresses have the following secret on this score:

• remove the needle plate;
• turn the flywheel slowly and examine the nose of the shuttle;

• the needle blade should be on the side where the shuttle will pass;
• thread from the side of the long needle groove.

Advice. Have you found the correct needle placement? Draw and glue the schematic directly onto the case. There is always a risk that after a long pause in using the device, you will forget about the nuances or someone else will sit down at the device.

It is better to lubricate the machine with a syringe, the handwheel can be slightly turned. Remember to remove the back cover. Use a special machine tool. Do not lubricate with vegetable oils and similar oils. Over time, they will dry out and jam the mechanisms. If your clipper no longer turns, try cleaning the old grease with the correct oil and kerosene first.

Advice. Be especially careful with the hinges on the front of the clipper that come into contact with the fabric.

Sometimes in the machine it is required to tighten the fasteners and knots. To do this, first disassemble and clean the mechanisms from the hairs with an old toothbrush. Then carefully tighten the nuts while holding the screws with a screwdriver. It is very important not to overtighten them. The same applies to hand drive assemblies.

The thread winding device is the weakest link in the Podolsk machine. A worn rubber gasket is almost impossible to repair. Only thread winding will extend her life. Also, over time, the fastening of the winding mechanism becomes loose. To tighten it, you may need to remove the flywheel shaft.

It is better to disassemble the sewing machine while fixing it on the diagram. Otherwise, the assembly will be delayed, "extra" parts will appear, which Podolsk cannot have.

In the 19th century, Georg Neidlinger, the European agent of the Singer firm, proposed to establish the production of sewing machines in Russia. The plant under the leadership of Walter Frank Dixon was built quickly. Provincial Podolsk had a lot of cheap land and labor. The German concern, expanding the production of sewing equipment, opened a plant in Podolsk in 1902.

By 1913, the Podolsk enterprise produced 600,000 cars a year. This is 2500 items per day. They were sold throughout the Russian Empire, were not inferior in quality to imported devices, for poor people they were sold in installments. A network of branded stores was deployed in the country.
After the revolution, the enterprise was nationalized, but, despite the severance of relations with the "head office", the production of equipment did not stop. Only 77 years later, in 1994, Singer resumed cooperation with the Podolsk office.

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The most common apparatus in the Russian Federation is a simple machine with a manual drive, sometimes with a foot pedal; for a long time it was almost the only running car in Russia. Until now, in school workshops, you can see such hand-operated specimens.
The advantage of the "two" is that in terms of power characteristics it is not inferior to modern electronic counterparts. Thick fabrics are sewn neatly and securely.

The model specializes in working with synthetics, silk, linen and wool.

Stitches that can be sewn:
1) Direct
2) Zigzag

Also, the machine is able to embroider and darn. It is possible to use both single-rod and double-rod needles.

The list of threads allowed for use: 1 tex x 3 (No. 30); 16.5 tex x3 (# 40); 13 tex x 3 (# 50): 10 tex x 3 (# 60); 7T5 tex x 3 (No. 80) GOST 6309-73, as well as threads from natural twisted silk No. 65 in accordance with GOST 22665-77.

A simple unit made of steel parts - almost never breaks. Like its predecessor (132), this model sews both in a straight line and in a zigzag. It differs insignificantly from the previous model: improved quality of the metal from which the parts are made and improved design with ergonomics (ease of operation).
142nd requires only periodic maintenance and lubrication; there is a device for winding a thread.

1) Functional check

If a copy of a typewriter fell into your hands (and you can't find others now - only if someone has carefully kept it for several decades in ideal conditions), first of all you need to:
a) Check the shuttle course (cleaning the compartment from the feathers is just a necessary measure);
b) Remove any moving parts that can be removed (including the throat plate and main cover);
c) With a rag or a special brush (with soft metal bristles), go over the teeth, rotation grooves (where most of the dirt accumulates due to oil / grease) and over the bobbin case;

d) No matter how anecdotal it sounds, try to make sure that after reassembling the machine you do not have any extra parts. The peculiarity of the products of the Podolsk factory is that it simply does not have extra parts.
2) How the needle is placed

Many novice seamstresses can "cut off" at this moment, and consider that the machine is irretrievably broken and beyond repair - it often turns out that the needle is simply incorrectly inserted into it.

The schematic figure shows how everything should look like:

3) Lubrication of central units

It is important to follow two rules:
a) Do not forget about hard-to-reach places - connecting joints, inconspicuous grooves, hinges. The main units - the shaft, the drive, almost always have holes into which you can drop special oil (GOST for oils is described in the instructions);
b) The external, visible part of the device just as needs lubrication, as well as the internal (this greatly ennobles the appearance of the machine). Try not to oily areas where the fabric will later be located so that you do not have to throw it away due to greasy stains.
4) Features of the needle bar

Periodically, when working with a coarse fabric, the following happens - due to the specifics of the material, the needle bar moves up and the sewing line begins to break. To prevent this, you need to change the position of the needle. This is done as follows:

5) Drive status test

As you know, when sewing by hand, the drive elements rotate in different directions - the small shaft is clockwise, the large shaft is counterclockwise. On each of them there are screws - bushings, they must be tightly fixed (in case of unscrewing), after having lubricated special. oil. First a large shaft, then a small one.

The sewing machine is an indispensable unit for home seamstresses. But sometimes the machine stops sewing normally: the thread breaks or gets confused, a knock is heard when the unit is operating. In this case, repair or adjustment of the sewing machine will be required.If complex repairs are required with the replacement of parts and assemblies and subsequent adjustment, then it is better to entrust such work to a specialist. But more often than not the car starts to "be capricious", for a reason misuse, or if the rules for setting and adjusting specified in the instructions are not followed - in this case, it is quite possible to repair sewing machines with your own hands.

The most important part of the unit, oddly enough, is the needle. During service, she makes hundreds of thousands of punctures in both thick and thin fabric. Over time, the needle becomes dull, the load on it increases, as a result of which it bends and breaks.

If the needle strikes a hard surface, such as the metal housing of the machine or a button, it will the tip may bend... At first glance, the needle looks fine, but the stitch is not straight when sewing. This is explained by the fact that when the thread passes through the eye of the needle, it clings to the defect of the point. When this happens, it starts to slow down with the formation of excess upper thread that passes through the stitch. For this reason, a break occurs periodically, and loops appear in the stitching.

Very often the unit breaks down if the user tries to sew fabrics that are not intended for household appliances, for example, double folds on jeans, zippers on a leather jacket, etc.

Thus, the entire repair of this unit can be a simple replacement of the needle. This part should be taken seriously and changed as often as possible, even if there are no visible defects on it. You should not throw in used needles: they can help you out if a good needle breaks, but you need to urgently continue sewing.

Incorrect needle placement may also cause the sewing device to “whim”. This problem often occurs when repairing Singer sewing machines (with a manual drive), as well as Chaika 100 and others.

The needle blade should be facing the hook point (fig. B). If the thread is tangled on the machine, remove the needle and check if it is properly attached.

There are times when a seamstress purchases a part for industrial equipment instead of a needle for household machines and installs it. Although it is difficult to confuse household (Fig. B) with industrial. There is a small saw cut on a household needle. When installing industrial needles you may damage the hook because some types of this part are slightly longer than usual. Even if its length is normal, the correct gap, which should be between the hook nose and the needle blade, is still violated, as a result of which "gaps" appear in the stitching.

A bent needle can also be the culprit for skipped stitches. If you look at figure (A), it is easy to understand how to check the curvature of a part. Since it is difficult to determine the bend of the needle from the side, it must be placed on a piece of glass. By turning the part, if it is not bent, the gap (1) will not change.

As noted above, do-it-yourself repair of sewing machines can be done with minor breakdowns that do not require replacement of parts in the assembly units.

You should be aware that preventive cleaning of the device and timely lubrication of moving parts can prevent most problems in the device.

If there are gaps in the line, then the following factors may cause this problem.

1. The fastener holding the needle is loose. To fix the problem, clamp the part with a screwdriver, wrench or pliers (depending on the model of the unit).
2. The hook nose is blunt or bent during operation. Use a magnifying glass to check this. If a defect is found, replace the part with a new one.
3. The needle selected for the fabric is too thick. Refer to your machine's manual for details on the selection criteria for fabric and needles.
4. The thread selected for the small eye of the needle is too thick. Adjust the thickness to match the size of the eyelet of the needle.
5. Incorrectly installed needle.Install the part as directed in the instructions. Usually the saw cut on the flask should be directed away from the seamstress.
6. Factory marriage of a needle. Replace it with a new one.

In some cases, malfunctions that can be eliminated with your own hands are associated with broken threads (upper or lower), poor fabric advancement or problems with the needle. In other cases, you must contact the master.

Remember that the repair of sewing machines Chaika 142m, Phoenix or Podolsk with your own hands should begin with cleaning the unit from dust and lubrication of moving parts.

The upper thread can constantly break if tucked in poor quality thread, or it is generally incorrectly refueled. In different models of devices, the refueling scheme may differ, therefore it is necessary to study the instructions, and according to it, insert the thread correctly. If the thread number is incorrect for the needle, also refer to the manual. Also, the upper thread breaks when there is too much spring pressed... It is necessary to loosen the adjusting screw slightly with a screwdriver. This adjustment is often done when the Podolsk sewing machine is being repaired, as well as Dragonfly, Brother and others, since the bobbin cases in all models have a similar design. In addition, thread breakage may be due to improper needle placement.

At the bottom of the machine, the thread travels from the bobbin (small spool) through the bobbin case to the needle eye of the plate. The thread breakage can be due to its dense and uneven winding. You also need to check the bobbin is installed correctly.

The quality of the yarn plays an important role in the correct operation of the machine. If it is with hinges, then it will inevitably block under the spring, followed by a break.

Bobbin thread breakage is rare, and this defect is noticed more often in machines with a vertical shuttle. Burrs can form on metal parts near the needle when the needle is repeatedly deflected from its path. In most cases, it bends when the user pulls the material to be hemmed in order to “help” the typewriter to advance it. found burrs, they can be removed with fine emery paper, after which all moving parts of the assembly can be lubricated. After that, a small piece of fabric should be stitched so that excess grease is absorbed into it.

There are times when a sewing machine is being repaired Chaika, or a sewing machine is being repaired in Podolsk, as a result of which an incorrect location of the point through which the thread comes out of the bobbin case is found. The problem is solved by replacing the “native” cap with a similar one produced by JANOME. This solves the problem of breakage and also improves the quality of the seam.

Most often, looping occurs from the bottom, due to a weak upper thread tension, or careless threading. To avoid this problem, you need to set the machine foot to the lower position, and only after that pass the thread through all threading points, referring to the instructions. When lowering the presser foot, the plates close. tension regulator.

The thread must be wound with an interference that must be felt when pulling the thread in order to thread it into the thread take-up.

If the thread is not clamped in the plates, it means that a foreign object (a piece of thread) has got into the space between them and needs to be removed. In the event that cleaning did not help, it is required to disassemble the regulator. In older units, it is located outside, on the front of the unit. In new models of machines, it will be necessary to remove the lining of the apparatus in order to get to it, for example, when repairing the Chaika sewing machine.

Frequent breaks and difficult tissue advancement may be due to misalignment of the movement of the needle and the assembly of the movable rail. Since the setting of the rack and pinion unit may differ for each model of sewing machine, for example, if you take repair of Brother sewing machines, it is not possible to give universal instructions. But if you understand how this unit works, then you can configure it on any model of the unit.

The needle makes a simultaneous movement with the staff to the final lower position.
The most important point in tuning is when the tip of the needle meets the barbs. The latter should be in a slightly lowered position relative to the needle plate, but not completely (peeking out a little). At this time, the position of the needle should be such that its tip does not reach the teeth of 1.5-2 mm. This position of two parts relative to each other is the main parameter when setting up lockstitch machines... At the same time, your unit will no longer tear the thread, stop poorly advancing or collecting fabric. This is possible provided that the other settings are correct.

The moment when the needle is lifted. After reaching the bottom position, the needle begins to lift and the bar moves forward to prepare for the next cycle that advances the fabric.

At this time, a stitch is formed (with the help of the shuttle, the upper thread is removed from the needle), and there should be no obstacles to the advance of the thread. Often this occurs simultaneously with the advancement of the fabric, as a result of which excessive tension is created and the thread breaks. Moving the fabric often causes the needle to break.

Some models of sewing machines are equipped with an electric drive, which is designed to rotate the main units of the mechanism. Electric drives often fail due to overheating during many hours of operation of the unit. In this case, the motor overheats, the conductors are melted, and the windings are closed. In this case, the repair of a burned-out electric drive of the sewing machine is impractical. You will need to completely replace it with a new one.

Also, a sign that the electric motor will soon burn out is a slowdown in the operation of the device and the appearance of a smell of burnt electrical wiring.

Pedal breakage sometimes mistaken for motor failure. Therefore, it is necessary to disassemble it and carefully inspect it for troubleshooting. If it cannot be repaired, you will need to purchase and install a new pedal.

In conclusion, we can say that the sewing machine is a rather complex mechanism. Due to the complex design, a lot of breakdowns occur, which can only be eliminated by a qualified technician. In addition, the correct operation of the sewing unit is influenced by the professional setting of some of its nodes, which cannot be adjusted with your own hands, without special knowledge.